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RE: When to propagate hydrangea? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: ontheteam on 06.14.2014 at 09:24 am in New England Gardening Forum

i do what Ishareflowers does..minus the scraping.
I just take a low lying branch,put a big rock on it and let it sit for a yr or 2. I get big transplants with out any worry of die off.


clipped on: 09.06.2014 at 09:09 pm    last updated on: 09.06.2014 at 09:09 pm

RE: Disappearing tomato blossoms (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: missingtheobvious on 05.22.2014 at 12:31 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

What variety is your plant? If you have other tomatoes, are they dropping their blossoms as well?

Is the plant in-ground or in a container? When did you plant it?

And most importantly, what has your weather been lately?

Tomatoes, peppers and beans are especially picky about the air temps when it comes time to set fruit. If the night temps fall below 55 or rise above 75 or if the day temps are above 90, the pollen becomes tacky and non-viable. Pollination cannot occur. If the bloom isn't pollinated, the bloom dies and falls off.

From the FAQ, "Why are the blooms on my tomato plant dying and falling off?"


clipped on: 06.17.2014 at 03:25 am    last updated on: 06.17.2014 at 03:26 am

RE: Understanding Container Sizes and Their Volumes (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: DaisyLover on 07.16.2005 at 06:28 pm in Container Gardening Forum

Join the confused crowd :) First off any list that tells you a 10" pot absolutely holds 5 quarts of soil is just giving you a very loose's not gospel. A 10" pot that is 9" deep is called a "trade size 1000" - 2.5 gallons (by one manufacturer)....actual volume is 2.3 gallons and one cubic yard of soil will fill approximately 90 of them. A "#1 Trade Gallon" is a "300" and is 6 3/4" x 7 1/4" and is called a gallon but its actual volume is .75 gallons. A 400 #1 at 7" x 7" is the closest to true gallon volume at .98 gallon capacity.

To make it even more confusing, some pot charts list the soil capacity in "cubic inches" and others list it as how many pots needed for a cubic yard of soil... and other charts don't even tell you the size of the pot.

The depth of the pot will increase or decrease the amount of soil it contains. And because a pot is called a 1-gal, 3-gal, or 5-gal doesn't mean that is it's actual size (which I think the government is trying to do something about now). Anyways, a 12" x 11 1/4" nursery pot is a "2000 #5 4-gal" with actual capacity of 3.9 gallons... not 5 gallons.

I could go on and on and on... and it would change with manufacturers and the type of pot being used. There's a standard, a thinwall, a thinwall with a wider lip, etc etc etc... and they all hold a different amount of soil.

Now that I have totally confused you even more with useless information, which I am sure tapla could have explained much better, just remember that just because it is called a gallon doesn't mean it holds four quarts and just because a pot is 10" doesn't mean it holds 5 quarts. After all...there are pots that are 10" diameter but only 4" tall and there are pots called 10" pots but they are actually 11" x 8". :)

Bottom line is... just make sure you have a large bag of soil so you don't run out. ;) And if that "indeterminate plant" you are talking about is a tomato everyone (and all the books) say to use a 5 gallon pot...minimum, but I know people that put them in 3-gallon pots. So.... ?


10"x9"=2.5 gal

Tomatoes...3 gallon pot

clipped on: 05.15.2014 at 12:04 am    last updated on: 05.15.2014 at 12:08 am

RE: Tulip problem - one leaf only - no bloom (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: thyme2dig on 05.12.2012 at 08:51 am in New England Gardening Forum

I do the same thing as Pixie Lou and hit Christmas Tree Shops when they are on sale. I haven't found tulips to be perennial at all for me in past years, although I did get a tip from the Cottage Garden forum last year that you should cut the bloom off as soon as it is finished so it doesn't go to seed. I did this last year and did have quite a batch of tulips come back this year. I was very surprised.

Pixie Lou, my dad once told me that his mom told him that squirrels and other rodents will snip off the blooms because there is a "kernel" that they like to eat. This came up in conversation with my dad after I caught chipmunks shimmying up my asiatic lilies and biting off the buds. It seemd they were doing that same thing, so maybe there is something to that.


Many consider tulips to be annuals.
clipped on: 04.23.2014 at 03:44 am    last updated on: 04.23.2014 at 03:45 am

RE: Small Hydrangeas (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: BelleIsleCottage on 04.17.2014 at 01:31 pm in Hydrangea Forum

What great suggestions! I never even thought about just pulling them out once they got too big. And I'm glad to hear 2 hours of morning sun is not that bad. I have read that if grass won't grow where you're planting hydrangeas, they probably won't bloom. I don't know if that's true of not.

I love the way Pia looks and the fact that you don't have to change the soil to make them stay pink. I want them pink.

Thank you for posting about the Cityline Hydrangeas! I have scoured the Internet looking at all sorts of hydrangeas and I never found anything about the Cityline collection. I think they might be perfect! I Love the color of Paris. What a pretty pinkish red.

Thanks so much for all your suggestions. You've really helped me. :)


If grass won't grow, then not a good spot for hydrangea
clipped on: 04.23.2014 at 03:33 am    last updated on: 04.23.2014 at 03:34 am

RE: Tulip bulbs are not coming up (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jerseygirl07603 on 04.05.2014 at 03:46 pm in Bulbs Forum

What a disappointment! 250 is a lot of tulips. What comes to mind are 2 things:
1. How deep did you plant them? I find deeper is better. 9 to 12 inches deep give mine better chance of survival in subsequent years.
2. What type of tulips did you plant? Some unfortunately are basically annuals. I've had species and Darwins come back for years and years.
Oh and one more thing - are they in a well-drained spot? Could they have rotted from too much moisture?


Deep plant tulips! 9 inches
clipped on: 04.06.2014 at 12:10 pm    last updated on: 04.06.2014 at 12:41 pm

RE: tips for remembering to thin bulbs (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kato_b on 03.21.2014 at 08:17 pm in Bulbs Forum

I'll start with the good advice and then give the backup plan :).
I dig mine right as soon as the leaves begin to show a little yellow, or 6 weeks after bloom. I lay them out to dry, come back in a few weeks, crumble off the dried roots and leaves and put them in mesh or paper bags until September for replanting.
The "other" plan is to replant them shortly after blooming while they're still growing. Dig up just like any other perennial, pull apart and replant. Works fine although the first method is preferred and the bulbs in theory should do better, especially for things like tulips and crocus which don't appreciate the root disturbance. Daffodils, hyacinths and snowdrops don't seem to care.


clipped on: 04.06.2014 at 12:00 pm    last updated on: 04.06.2014 at 12:01 pm

New Idea for growing lettuces (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: debra_boston on 03.06.2014 at 10:40 am in New England Gardening Forum

I hope I can post this in the correct spot. I couldn't find the posting window for starting a new thread.. If you see it, feel free to move this post if it pops up in the wrong spot. I don't mean to hijack anyone's thread.

I am so excited about this cool new way (to me it's new) to grow stuff, weed free and at waist height, making gardening that much more accessible. Check out this photo and then how to do this....

Here are the instructions: This worked well for me for many years - it's a simple, weed-free way to grow lettuce, spinach and even radishes. Take a 2 cubic feet bag of potting soil (I used Miracle Grow), rumple it around quite a bit to loose the soil, poke quite a few holes in the back side for drainage, then lay the bag on a smooth surface that will allow drainage and not get too hot, and cut out the top, leaving about a 4 or 5 inch border all around. Lightly rake through the soil to even it out and loosen it even more, then carefully, and evenly sprinkle the seeds around. I put my salad green seeds in an old spice bottle with large shaker holes, added some cornmeal, shook it all up to mix well and sprinkled them out of it. I put the cornmeal in there to allow me to see that I had covered the soil evenly. If doing radish seeds or spinach, just make lines the depth mentioned on the seed pack, plant the seeds and cover appropriately. For salad greens I sprinkled a lite covering of soil over the cornmeal and seeds and then spray-misted to water them in. I put my bags on metal sawhorses and grates to make them waist level. This kept the bags off the hot concrete and I didn't have to bend over when cutting my salad. When harvesting, just use a pair of scissors and cut what you need - don't pull the plants out. Same goes for spinach - they will grow back almost magically overnight, and you can't tell where you cut. Spray mist the seeds and plantlings at first when watering, until they are established, then you can water more vigorously as the plants mature. You will probably need to water more often, since the depth of the bags are not as deep as a regular in-ground garden. I just kept mine moist, but not sopping wet.


clipped on: 03.16.2014 at 07:23 am    last updated on: 03.16.2014 at 07:24 am

RE: Scraggly seedlings (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: digdirt on 03.10.2014 at 07:57 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

Not if they are already leggy. You will need to transplant them into new containers and bury all the stem in the process. Bury the stem up to just below the bottom leaves and roots will develop all along the buried stem.

Then if the light is sufficient they won't turn leggy again but it takes a great deal of light to prevent it and old bulbs loose power. Depending on the number of plants, most of us use multiple 4 foot shop lights with 2 new bulbs each.

Over on the Growing from Seed forum there is a great FAQ and many discussions about light setups.



What to do for leggy tomato seedlings
clipped on: 03.15.2014 at 06:52 am    last updated on: 03.15.2014 at 06:52 am

RE: How to grow hydrangea in pots? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: luis_pr on 09.11.2013 at 02:57 am in Hydrangea Forum

Yes, just provide it its normal requirements. Give it some morning sun, afternoon shade or put it in bright shade. You will have to water it and fertilize it more often since it is in a pot. You can start with a pot size of around 18" or so.

One catch is to keep the size at maturity in mind. You do not want to plant a large hydrangea in a pot. In case the shrub gets large, for example. Repot to a larger size when you see that the roots are circling (check once a year or once every two years). When repotting, use a new pot that is about 2" larger than the previous one. Feel free to move the pot around if necessary during the year. Protect it from really bad inclement weather by storing it in a garage temporarily. Remember to continue watering when it goes dormant.

Regularly amend the potting soil to prevent iron chlorosis (or if you are trying to change the bloom color)and do not place the pot in a windy location. I like to put rocks at the bottom 1" of pots.



clipped on: 09.13.2013 at 06:46 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2013 at 06:46 pm

RE: Tomato Plants Stunted, Tomatoes Small, Blossoms Not Fruiting (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: fcivish on 06.21.2013 at 10:52 am in Growing Tomatoes Forum

When tomatoes stop fruiting I generally blame it on two things: Too much fertilizer (though this often slows down fruit set rather than stopping it entirely), or wrong temperatures.

Tomatoes often don't set fruit if daytime temps are over 90 to 95 or if nightime temps are below about 45 or above about 74.

I remember many many years ago, when I noticed my tomatoes were not setting any fruit during the middle of one summer. This was a problem I noted across multiple plants in many different locations around my house and garden. I had only been growing tomatoes for a few years and I was concerned because I wasn't getting any new fruit. So I went to the local garden center and asked a guy who claimed to be a supposed expert, and he told me that it was because I was watering my tomatoes with sprinklers and washing the pollen off. WRONG! It was just the high temps that came early in the summer that year.

Other than the above, I think most tomato plants are pretty tough and if they are growing or doing reasonably well to appearances, they should be setting fruit.


clipped on: 07.05.2013 at 01:43 pm    last updated on: 07.05.2013 at 01:43 pm

RE: Timeline of a tomato truss (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: helenh on 04.20.2013 at 04:49 pm in Oklahoma Gardening Forum

Here is the link

Here is a link that might be useful: same as Keith's link


clipped on: 07.05.2013 at 01:04 pm    last updated on: 07.05.2013 at 01:04 pm

RE: Zone 6 Hydrangea winter protecting? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: melaroma on 10.26.2009 at 07:11 pm in Hydrangea Forum

I finally got around to caging my three hydrangeas but am a bit worried about my Nikko as it is looking a bit sad after last nights frost. I'm in zone six and the nursery where I bought it said that it was the hardiest for Utah but you never know with nurseries.


Did I get too it too late? Will it still bloom for me?

I caged it along with my two ES (just in case!) and piled on the leaves pretty heavy. Can I also cover it with burlap or is that over doing it? I'm in love with these beauties and want to make sure that they flower come summer.

This is how they look once they are caged:


I bought 15 wood stakes at Lowes for $6, Chicken Wire enough for all three for $20 and it came with wire. I thought that caging them would be difficult but it was simple and easy to do.


clipped on: 07.05.2013 at 01:00 pm    last updated on: 07.05.2013 at 01:02 pm