Clippings by moonphase

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RE: I can't belive my luck! :) (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: gail_ish on 08.10.2007 at 10:01 am in Garden Junk Forum

Hi Scavage Garden,

I saw in your albums you had shutters. Here's an idea I saved with what you might do with them - it's a birdhouse! If you stare at it long enough (as I have) you can see the components: shutters, picket fencing roof, spool bed turned posts on the top, finial, gingerbread, picture frame, door hardware thing and baseboards around the bottom:
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

I'm hoping to build one - I'll use some leftover 2x4s we have & I was thinking about separating the top triangular birdhouse from the bottom. I'd put doors in the back - a small one up top to clean out the birdhouse if it gets used and one below & then maybe use that as storage.

Hope you don't think I highjacked your thread - I just wanted to share.

All the best,
Gail

NOTES:

shutters,picket fence,base board,door hardware = Birdhouse = awesome idea
clipped on: 08.12.2007 at 08:10 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2007 at 08:11 pm

RE: Hypertufa Rocks???? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: wendy2shoes on 07.28.2007 at 09:43 pm in Hypertufa Forum

I use 1 part each sand, perlite or vermiculite, peat, and cement, then water mixed in to 'cottage cheese' consistency. Mine start out brown, I guess because of the peat, but then they whiten up in a month or so. As the peat rots, I get nice holes and green moss on them, to add to the natural look.
When they first come out of the bags though, they look like "dinosaur poop" to quote my DH.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.31.2007 at 09:30 pm    last updated on: 07.31.2007 at 09:30 pm

RE: Starting cuttings using ws method? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: seedmama on 03.22.2007 at 12:30 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

This doesn't exactly answer your question, but perhaps it will provide encouragement. I took cuttings from a Japanese maple last August, along with a whole lot of other things. The other things had clearly taken root before winter came. I was dissappointed that the maples had not taken, but didn't get around to tossing the containers. I took a look at them last week and 80% of them have leaf buds. Apparently, they did make it. This wasn't exactly winter sowing, and I can't say it was winter weather that made the difference, but who knows.

Keep in mind that when Trudi first tried WS, it wasn't a proven method, and she certainly encountered nay sayers. I say give it a try.

Good luck

NOTES:

RED MAPLE CUTTINGS
clipped on: 03.22.2007 at 11:47 pm    last updated on: 03.22.2007 at 11:48 pm

HooHa! Seeds which need cold strat..

posted by: donn_ on 02.22.2007 at 03:25 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

I named this thread HooHa so you could remember it and search for it if you need the list. A better bet is to copy the list off to your PC.

This is 140 genuses of seed which need some period of cold moist stratification in order to germinate. It is distilled from the old T&M Germination Database, which I stuffed into a spreadsheet.

Eventually, I'll have a list available with the rest of the information on these seeds, like how long a period of cold strat they need, etc..

This is by no means complete, nor is it gospel.

Abies
Aconitum
Actaea
Ailanthus
Akebia
Allium
Anacyclus
Anemone
Aquilegia
Arbutus
Asclepias
Asperula
Aster
Astrantia
Belamcanda
Berberis
Bergenia
Betula
Buddleia
Calluna
Calocedrus
Camellia
Campsis
Cardiocrinum
Ceanothus
Cedrus
Chaenomeles
Chamaecyparis
Chimonanthus
Chionanthus
Chlorogalum
Clematis
Cleome
Clerodendron
Cupressus
Cyclamen
Delphinium
Dicentra
Dictamnus
Disporum
Dodecatheon
Draba
Dryas
Enkianthus
Eranthis
Erica
Eryngium
Erythronium
Eucalyptus
Euphorbia
Fagus
Felicia Amelloi
Flower Lawn
Francoa
Fritillaria
Gaultheria
Gentiana
Geranium
Gingko
Globularia
Helleborous
Hemerocallis
Hepatica
Heracleum
Hippophae
Iliamna
Iris
Ixora
Juglans
Kalmia
Kolwitzia
Larix
Larkspur
Laurus
Lavandula
Leontopodium
Lewisia
Libertia
Linaria
Liquidambar
Lobelia
Lonicera
Lychnis
Magnolia
Mahonia
Malope
Malus
Mertensia
Mimulus
Moluccelia
Nyssa
Ornithogalum
Pansy
Paradisea
Parthenocissus
Penstemon
Phlox-Perennial
Phyteuma
Picea
Pinus
Podophyllum
Polygonatum
Poterium
Primula-Outdoor
Prunus
Pseudotsuga
Ptelia
Pulsatilla
Pyracantha
Ranunculus
Rhododendron
Rosa
Rudbeckia
Salvia
Saponaria
Sarracenia
Saxifraga
Scilla
Sedum
Shortia
Sisyrinchium
Skimmia
Smilacena
Soldanella
Sorbus
Spigelia
Syringa
Taxodium
Tellima
Thuja
Tiarella
Townsendia
Trachycarpus
Trollius
Tsuga
Tulipa
Tunica
Veratrum
Verbena
Viola

NOTES:

SEEDS THAT NEED COLD STRATIFICATION
clipped on: 03.13.2007 at 10:36 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2007 at 10:37 pm

Tips and Tricks-Freestanding Rigid Wall Ziplock Bags

posted by: monte on 02.09.2007 at 03:27 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Tips and Tricks-Rigid Wall Ziplock Bags

Another container option.

Scrounged containers are a great way to reuse things that would wind up in the trash.

But sometimes the "need for seed" exceeds our ability to gather enough containers to get the job done.

This leads to, what some may believe, odd behavior. Late night or early morning trash raids are well understood here on the forum but the public at large may not get it.

What to do?

One option is to use common ziplock bags with an internal support made from corrugated cardboard. The cardboard form not only stiffens the bag but acts as a support to create some head room. Quick easy and effective.

I think that for many of us this would be a very economical method of making many containers. If you want to precision sow you can easily insert dividers or use paper pots inside the bags.

Materials Needed

Gallon Sized Ziplock Bags
Corrugated Cardboard
Hole Punch
Stapler

Preparing the Cardboard

You will need to prepare strips of corrugated cardboard to form into cylinders to slip inside the ziplocks. I have found that a piece of cardboard 23 " wide and 5 " tall is the ideal size for a 1 gallon ziplock bag. You need to be sure that the "grain" or specifically, the corrugation of the cardboard runs vertically on the short axis of the piece. This ensures that it will easily form into a cylinder.

Grain

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Tightly roll the cardboard to loosen it up a bit. This allows it to more easily form into a cylinder. Overlap the ends by about 1 inches. Staple together to form your cylinder.

Rolled

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Preparing The Bags

Take the hole punch and punch a few holes along the top and bottom edges. These are you drainage and vent holes. For efficiency I just fold the bag into quarters and make one punch at each end.

Punch Bags

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Insert the cardboard cylinder into the bag. Once inserted it will hold the bag fully open.

Inserted

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Fill with 3" of your favorite soil mix and sow seed.

When you zip the bag shut it will come together into a fairly ridged cylindrical form with the zip part tightly stretched along the top.

Sealed

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NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.10.2007 at 05:17 am    last updated on: 02.10.2007 at 05:17 am

RE: Red Maple Seeds--HELP (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mickey_dee2002 on 02.03.2007 at 03:12 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Moonphase this is how you do them. To stratify. Put in a container and pour hot water from a coffee maker over them, let stand one day and repeat process. Place in a storage baggie with a mix of moist peat and vermiculite. Store in refrigerator for 90 to 110 days or until they start to germinate, plant out after all danger of frost. Protect from squirels etc with a screen.
Mike

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.04.2007 at 12:34 am    last updated on: 02.04.2007 at 12:35 am

RE: A different topic - Fairy houses (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: gramadelie on 12.24.2006 at 07:55 am in Garden Junk Forum

Hello all. I have been lurking for some time now, and its time I posted! I once visited a garden that had fairy houses made of field rocks. The rocks were rounded with roofs of material like silicone - layered and shaped to make them appear thatched. The silicone was painted a yellowish colour and the windows and doors were painted onto the rock. Has anyone made these? I can see endless possibilities, like pressing straw or moss into the silicone instead of painting it. I have some interesting rocks waiting under the snow ... now all I need is the time!

NOTES:

Fairy house
clipped on: 12.28.2006 at 12:18 am    last updated on: 12.28.2006 at 12:19 am

RE: where to find seeds for mums (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: webkat5 on 10.14.2006 at 08:43 am in Seed Saving Forum

You can winter sow mum seeds....check out that forum.

The seeds will need to be collected after the bud and the area of stem below the flower has dried and turned brown.

There will be lots of chaff, but you do not need to separate the seeds from this when winter sowing...

NOTES:

MUM SEEDS
clipped on: 10.28.2006 at 10:22 pm    last updated on: 10.28.2006 at 10:22 pm

RE: Advice on Beauty Berry Berries (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: donn_ on 10.21.2006 at 02:34 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Dry them, and WS them early. They need 90 days of cold moist stratification.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.21.2006 at 11:46 pm    last updated on: 10.21.2006 at 11:47 pm

RE: Saving seed of New World Sages (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: penny1947 on 10.02.2006 at 07:22 am in Salvia Forum

Becky when you look down into the open calyx the ripe seeds will be very black. the calyx will usually be much more open and will at least be starting to turn brown and somewhat dry also. Keep in mind that Black & Blue is notorious for cross pollinating and the plants may or may not come true to the parent depending on what other salvias have been grown nearby. I usually have a 20-30% chance of my seedlings coming true. Two years ago I had 1 out of 4 plants to come true. This year I had two plants out of 6 come true. Your best bet is to take cuttings of your existing plants if you want to insure that you have additional B%B salvias for next year. I collect the seed and sow it b/c I get a thrill out of seeing what will develop but I also take cuttings of my existing plants and even purchase new ones from time to time just to insure that I always have at least 2 or 3 true B&Bs.

I am sure Rich will offer more precise information for you on seed collecting.

Penny

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.18.2006 at 09:24 pm    last updated on: 10.18.2006 at 09:24 pm

Need more players for my Seed Swap!

posted by: nettasaura on 10.11.2006 at 02:13 am in Winter Sowing Forum

This could be lots of fun, but won't fly if I don't have enough people! You all are a bunch of good sports so come play with us!!!

"Seed-Hot-Cocktails"

Let me know if you want to play!!!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.12.2006 at 12:27 am    last updated on: 10.12.2006 at 12:28 am

RE: Fountain grass seed? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: trudi_d on 10.11.2006 at 08:13 pm in Winter Sowing Forum


In this photo you are looking at the inflorescenses of grass seeds--grasses set their seeds along a stem, they are clustered together and usually mature from the bottom towards the top.

The little hairs that you describe are actually part of the seed dispersal system--they have hook-like ends, or could be barbed--in either case, their purpose is to attach the seed to the coat of an animal so that the seed can be carried away from the plant to hopefully find a niche to grow and flourish.

Once the seed is transported, it will fall off or snap off the animal--if you can imagine a dog laying down with these seeds attached to its coat, the seeds' hook-like ends will snap and the seed will be dropped to the ground--hopefully it is in a place where it can sprout before getting eaten or rotting.

The grass seed is the darker and fatter part of the combined seed and its chaff (the hook like part). Most people trade both seed and chaff combined--it's hard to separate the two.

I'll paste in a link for the fountain grass seed saving FAQ.

T

Here is a link that might be useful: Fountain Grass Seeds

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.11.2006 at 10:02 pm    last updated on: 10.11.2006 at 10:02 pm

RE: Full bloom....bush clover....( or as good as it gets) (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: mary_lu on 09.19.2006 at 12:42 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

Actually this plant is about as maintenance free as you can get! In my zone 4/5 garden it dies back to the ground over winter. I just cut the canes back in late winter to about 8 inches. It regrows completely each year. No pests or disease. Just let it grow and what you see is what you get! A nice flowering bush for fall when color is lacking!

I posted previously about this bush and if you do a search on this forum for MONSTER I think you will find the post. I posted pictures of when it/they were first planted in 2004 for size and again pictures of it from this spring to show it's growth habit. :-)

Marylu

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.22.2006 at 11:37 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2006 at 11:37 pm

RE: Verbena (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: teresabo on 07.05.2006 at 07:56 pm in Seed Saving Forum

They stay in a cluster like the flowers. When the flower dies there should still be some green stuck to the stem - that is where the seeds develop. Not every one will have seeds, but if they plump out a little - there's seed there. Let them turn brown and dry before harvesting them. The seeds will look like little sticks that are about 1/4".

NOTES:

seed saving for verbena
clipped on: 07.24.2006 at 07:33 am    last updated on: 09.21.2006 at 05:23 am

RE: Sweet Williams, Verbena, and Lobelia (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: nettasaura on 08.15.2006 at 11:33 pm in Seed Saving Forum

I have Blue Moon Lobelia. Up until now, (quite literally today as I am new to seed saving myself)I have only been able to harvest very few seeds. But now there's a lot. When the majority of the flowers are dead or dying, look at the base of the flower. That green part will swell considerably from the way it used to look. It will start to turn from green to brown but still be soft. During this transition if you look closely at the pod, it might appear slightly transluscent and the fat area holding the seeds will appear darker (because the seeds are dark brown to black). The pod will continue to dry and will feel papery and hard when ready to harvest. Pull the pods off then (be carefull, if it's very ready the seeds will start to fall out the second you pull it off the bush...I use a paper plate). You can put them all in a plastic baggie and crush them or open each individual pod (which I prefer because there is less chaff). The seeds look like dark brown or black grains of fine sand and are almost as heavy. Dry 'em, store 'em, winter sow 'em, enjoy the fruits of your labor!
Netta

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.21.2006 at 05:08 am    last updated on: 09.21.2006 at 05:09 am

RE: Gazania seeds....totally confused!!!!! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: nettasaura on 08.22.2006 at 01:49 am in Seed Saving Forum

teresabo was very nice and gave me permission to post the pics since she is unable right now. Here they are.


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Good luck to all of you who are hovering over your Gazanias. ~Netta

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.21.2006 at 05:04 am    last updated on: 09.21.2006 at 05:05 am

RE: Black Eye Susans (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: kilngod on 08.27.2006 at 07:27 pm in Seed Saving Forum

and they look like woody, slightly tapered, stubby "sticks".

If you put all the stuff that comes off the dead flower into a ziplock bag, shake/jiggle it around...the seeds fall to the bottom and you can scoop them out from under the "other stuff" with a spoon down the side of the bag.

--Tina

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.21.2006 at 04:59 am    last updated on: 09.21.2006 at 04:59 am

RE: Need Help please... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: merriesunshine on 09.14.2006 at 12:03 pm in Seed Saving Forum



  

maybe this will help.
Pods are tiny capsules. Seeds are tiny ovals in the centre of a light brown wing, but look like brown twiggy dust. Winter
Outside
(186 days)
merriesunshine

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.21.2006 at 04:47 am    last updated on: 09.21.2006 at 04:47 am

RE: Sweet Alyssum Seeds (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bitterwort on 09.04.2006 at 12:39 am in Seed Saving Forum

Sure, they form on little stalks all around the stem, where the flowers were. When they start looking dried up, you can brush the seed out of the little stalk. Each stalk then looks similar to a magnifying glass that has lost its lens (the seed).

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.21.2006 at 04:42 am    last updated on: 09.21.2006 at 04:42 am

RE: Help me find a perrenial vine(s) for my arbor (pics) (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: mary_lu on 09.16.2006 at 04:09 am in Cottage Garden Forum

Wow....thanks everyone! I guess DH was probably right? (Did I really just say that??) In the past I have planted a Mandevilla vine on the end of the arbor. It did look pretty, but the wait until mid-summer for flowers and for it to grow to any size was frustrating for me. But....DH likes how it looked and wants me to plant it again. This year I tried Heavenly Blue morning glories, they are blooming now, but again the long wait.

I have not been really happy with the morning glories this year either. :-( Couldn't decide why. I had thought that the look I wanted was to cover the arbor with vines....but after reading your comments and looking back at pictures from other years, maybe you are right. Not a huge or heavy vine, but stay with a lighter vine? Oh, the indecision.

We built the arbor ourselves, no plan, just ideas. The "windows" were something we had picked up the summer before we built the arbor, with no idea how we would use them. As we planned the arbor, DH mentioned that he thought he could incorporate them into the arbor, and so he did. They are cast iron and have love birds in the center.
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I do love the picture of the honeysuckle and if not on the arbor, I will find a different spot to plant one of those!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.16.2006 at 10:45 pm    last updated on: 09.16.2006 at 10:46 pm

RE: Next years' plans- what are you gonna (or not) do? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: maidinmontana on 09.04.2006 at 01:19 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

This is my first attempt at WSing. So everything will be new. I only had 3 beds when I started so I added 4 more doing lasagne beds. Now I have a variety of beds, some shade, some sun/shade and some full sun.

After that I decided what I wanted in the beds. Some decisions were based on the seeds I have already recieved from GW traders and some were done by simply wanting a particular flower, asking for it on the exchange forum and getting it.

Then I sat down and drew an outline for each bed,numbered the beds, what plant I wanted where, what each bed would have in it based on size, color and light requirements.

Then I took the tiny seed packs, and put the corresponding number on it and stuck it in an envelope with the bed number on it. When it is time to winter sow them I will grab the envies out, take each seed pack out and put it in the prepped container, when I set out the containers, they will be grouped by beds. Hopefully this will work and come plant out time I can just grab the container full of containers, go to the bed I have choosen for them, and plant them.

For me, I think this will work best. I want all the beds to have something and this way I am not planting everything I want and then having to decide where to put them or worse yet not having a place to put them.

I know I am going to like this Wsing and I am not sure what I will do the following year. . . heck, theres lots of grass here so probably by the time I'm done my lawnmower will be in the yard sale pile.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.04.2006 at 10:39 pm    last updated on: 09.04.2006 at 10:40 pm

RE: Made anything with PVC pipe? (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: mrskjun on 12.03.2003 at 05:20 am in Garden Accoutrements Forum

I built a rose bower using PVC pipe this year. A builder gave me the idea. I used 2 20' lengths to build my arches and covered with hog wire. Someone on the forum told me that my two climbing Cecile Brunners would eventually crush it, the builder says no. It seems very sturdy. I can place a bench or a table and chairs under the bower.

Betty

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.29.2006 at 12:12 am    last updated on: 08.29.2006 at 12:13 am

RE: what seeds do you direct sow in fall? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: libbyshome on 08.20.2006 at 07:17 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

Aquilegia........P
calendula
campanula.bellflower .....B
cornflower
columbine....P
clarkia elegans
Cosmos
dianthus
chinese Forget-Me-Not
godetia
honesty.........B
feverfew
foxglove,.....B
Jupiter's Beard ....P
larkspur
lavatera
lobelia....sometimes
Love-In-A-Mist
malva sylvestris.........P
mignonette
mullein ...giant weed
nasturtium
nemophila - Baby-Blue-Eyes
pansy
Rose campion..........P
salvia hominum
opium poppies
Shirley poppy
Snapdragon
Sweet Pea
sweet alyssum
stocks,
Wallflower

Those are some of the self seeders in my garden. I always wonder while I'm weeding which seeds I'm stirring around. Are they from this year or perhaps they've been in the soil a number of years? After a few years you can recognize the seedlings and can move them around while tiny.
Some of next year's flowers are growing already. eg :Foxgloves, cornflowers, salvia etc. Most will seed around the 'mother' plant but I'm never sure where something might pop up.

Libby

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.20.2006 at 11:37 pm    last updated on: 08.20.2006 at 11:37 pm

RE: Night Blooming Cereus (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: RootDiggerNC on 07.25.2005 at 03:51 pm in Moon Garden Forum

Becca, Some of the newer hybrid epies do better in a hanging basket, but for this one I use a small trellis that fits into the pot for mine and just gently tie up the long pieces. You can trim it up and root the cuttings after letting them dry (scab over) for abt a week before planting abt 2 inches deep. Then just mist for a couple weeks. After that you can keep it barely moist but not soggy til you see new growth. Sometimes I just let the cuttings dry and then stick them back in with the mother plant, if I want to make it fuller. Epiphyllum blooms on old growth so be careful about too much pruning. About March you can feed it a 0-10-10, to set the stage for blooming next spring. They like to be kept rootbound to bloom. After bloom you want to feed it a good balanced fertilizer, but stop feeding in the fall. This is a good time of year to root them. In the winter it takes forever. Epies.net has a section on caring for these. Have fun!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.20.2006 at 10:44 pm    last updated on: 08.20.2006 at 10:45 pm

Want blue? Make it!

posted by: linnea2 on 07.23.2006 at 12:20 am in Perennials Forum

This may not be for everybody, and may be old hat to some, but it works for me,
and I always forget, so I thought I'd volunteer:
If you can't find the right blue perennial to go with your yellow lilies
or sundrops or what have you, paint the trellis that blue!
Or a chair. Or get a blue bird bath. Bring home some color chips to test the
color in the garden.

It's easy to get stuck with strictly stone, weathered wood or brick hardscape,
for no real reason, except some notion that "natural" is best. Happens to me
all the time. A garden is by nature artificial, I have to remind myself.

I've been admiring that black Bamboo that's not hardy here, plus I have misgivings
about bamboo, it seems to look really ratty most of the time around here,
except in January. Besides taking over the place.
It's primarily those black culms I'm lusting after.
I'm going to get some beautiful bamboo rods and spray paint them matte black.
(Maybe even blue? Or lime green?) I think I'll prop them upright in a garbage can
and pour 4 inches of concrete (black) around them, so they're in a base
I can move around.

Every time I've painted something in the gardens I love the way it looks,
but the idea still eludes me most of the time. Anyone else?

NOTES:

absolutely brilliant ideas.
clipped on: 07.30.2006 at 01:33 am    last updated on: 07.30.2006 at 01:34 am

RE: When are rose hips ready to collect? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: SusanC on 11.28.2005 at 03:39 pm in Seed Saving Forum

Hi Adam,

As soon as the hips turn a uniform bright orange, you can collect them.

NOTES:

Rose seeds
clipped on: 07.24.2006 at 08:40 am    last updated on: 07.24.2006 at 08:41 am

RE: black eyed susan vine seeds??? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Mudpuppies_Mom on 10.27.2004 at 08:51 pm in Seed Saving Forum

I came looking for info & instead found something I can reply to. I just spent an hour this evening removing those seeds from their little pods. :) The round brown thing w/the pointy little hat looks like it could be a large seed, but it's a pod. Inside just about every one I opened there were 4 hard black seeds the size of a peppercorn head. Two on each side of a central compartment. Most just rolled right out as soon as I gave the pod a gentle squeeze. It was SO NICE to be opening something that had seeds big enough for even me to see and didn't need any further cleanup.

NOTES:

blackeyed susan vine seeds
clipped on: 07.24.2006 at 08:37 am    last updated on: 07.24.2006 at 08:38 am