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Where can have a cool table like this made?

posted by: donho on 03.10.2010 at 08:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm almost finished with my kitchen (another white kitchen with inset cabinets, honed AB granite, and dark wood floors) and am looking for a table for our built-in seating. I want something vintage / industrial. Anyone know where I can get someone to make me one like these? I'll have to get it custom as I need an odd size.

Here is a link that might be useful: Vintage/industial tables


or the Ralph Pucci table.
clipped on: 03.10.2010 at 09:32 pm    last updated on: 03.10.2010 at 09:33 pm

RE: Vote - Back pain. Should I raise countertop height to 36.5 i (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: buehl on 02.08.2010 at 05:01 am in Kitchens Forum

Oh!!!! I forgot the "subtract 6 inches" part!!!! Thanks RHome!

Yikes! So sorry!!!! I really wish I could go back an edit a post now!!

Here's the correct formula!

  1. Stand straight with arms down at your sides
  2. Now, bend your arms at the elbow to form a 90o angle
  3. Have someone measure the distance from the floor to your elbow.
  4. Subtract 6" from that number.
  5. This is your "ideal" counter height for prep work.


clipped on: 03.08.2010 at 02:20 pm    last updated on: 03.08.2010 at 02:23 pm

RE: Vote - Back pain. Should I raise countertop height to 36.5 i (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: buehl on 02.06.2010 at 04:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Actually, there is a formula for determining your "ideal" counter height...

It takes 2 people.

  1. Stand straight with arms down at your sides

  2. Now, bend your arms at the elbow to form a 90o angle

  3. Have someone measure the distance from the floor to your elbow.

  4. This is your "ideal" counter height for prep work.

For rolling dough, some people prefer a counter 4" to 6" lower, but usually a kitchen table, if you have one, is lower. If you have enough room to have two different counter heights, I'd go with your "ideal" plus one that's 6" or so lower...assuming you bake!

Another thing to consider doing is raising your DW 6" or so off the floor. That's one of the things recommended for accessibility and I think it would help anyone who has back problems...less leaning over.

I would also consider a single wall oven mounted a 18" to 24" off the floor. It would put the racks at a good height as well. If you have a double oven, it becomes more problematical since it's impossible to have both at an "ideal" height.

Lastly, your sink. First, be sure it is not installed too far back...try for no more than a 3" lip in front of the sink (i.e., b/w the edge of the counter & the sink). The farther back it's installed, the more you have to lean in to use it and the faucet. Second, don't get too deep a sink. The deeper a sink is, the farther you have to lean down to get to things on the bottom of the sink. A grid will help, but it will only raise the bottom of the sink 1/2" to 1". This is one instance, btw, in which the taller you are, the worse a deep sink is on your back! And remember, if you have an undermount sink, the actual depth of your sink = depth of sink + thickness of countertop material.


clipped on: 03.08.2010 at 12:13 pm    last updated on: 03.08.2010 at 12:14 pm

98.627% Finished Kitchen - Transitional White Inset w/ glass tile

posted by: theanimala on 01.02.2010 at 03:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

After reading this site daily for 6 months now and getting tons of great advice it's time for us to post our finished kitchen. In keeping with the style of the house we needed to go more modern than traditional, but we didn't want something too contemporary. Also, we couldn't decide on painted or stained cabinets, so we decided to do both by painting the perimeter while having the island stained.

Although we moved no walls, it ended up being a bigger project then we expected as the old tile floor went through our foyer, powder room and laundry room. Also didn't have correct sub-flooring, and we wanted to move some of the appliances around, etc. The reason the it is only 98.627% completed, is we still have 1.373% left to do, such as glass shelves in glass front doors so in cabinet lighting can shine all the way through, etc.


Cabinets - Inset Shiloh Homestead painted MB Softwhite, Island Maple stained Espresso
Flooring - Tile Fashion Coffee 12 x 24
Countertops - Ceasarstone Raven, Ceasarstone Misty Carrera - Mitred Edge
Main Sink - Franke 33" SS Apron - FHX710-33S
Main Faucet - Generic Costco Brand
Prep Sink - Elkay - ELU1618
Prep Faucet - Danze Como Pulldown
Refrigerator - JennAir CD FD - JFC2089HES
Ovens - Electrolux - EW30EW65GS
Warming Drawer - Electrolux - EW30WD55GS
Microwave - Electrolux - EL27MO45GS
Cooktop - DCS 36" Drop-in - CTD-365
Hood - Bosch - DKE9365AUC
Beverage Center - GE Monogram - ZDBC240NBS
Dishwasher - Bosch
Backsplash - White Glass subway tile from
Backsplash - Stainless Steel 1x2 tiles
Pulls - TopKnobs - Princetonian
Paint - BM 1542 Himalayan Trek






Sink Area:







Island - Backside:

Pantry Area - Closed:


Pantry - Open:


Lazy Suzan - Corner Pullout:


A big thank you to everyone who gave such great advice over the past few months. If anyone has any questions on what we like /dislike please let us know.


clipped on: 02.09.2010 at 02:21 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2010 at 02:22 pm

Possible cure for second or first floor F/L vibration woes

posted by: monaw on 01.31.2010 at 09:12 am in Laundry Room Forum

I'm about to have a Miele washer/dryer installed on second floor of my home and thought I would share this info/idea with anyone who is searching for possible solutions to the vibration hell that some speak of. First of all we have put a 3/4 inch piece of plywood which is screwed and glued down on top of oak flooring. I intend on using the following treatment other than using plywood instead of oak that this gentlemen did: (the following is copied)

"Heres what we did to solve the noise and vibration problem. I cant take credit for this solution as we read this solution in another review and tried it and it worked for us. I am VERY grateful I found the solution on the Internet. We have a weak floor that vibrated & the washer on spin cycle would travel around the floor due to the vibration. Leveling the washer was NOT enough to stop this problem. We had a local lumberyard cut us three 1"x12" solid oak boards to place on the floor as a solid base for our washer and dryer. We also put a stall mat on top of these boards. A stall mat comes in 4x6 dimensions and is inches thick. Its made of an extremely dense rubber material (one of these mats will weigh 100 pounds or more). The stall mats are available anywhere farm materials are sold. Sometimes they are called cow mats, or horse mats or even barn mats. They are made to cushion the floor for a horse or cow (and can withstand the wear and tear of 1400+ pounds of animal and their hooves and waste each day so theyre VERY durable). I bought ours for less than $40 so its NOT an expensive solution. You can cut the mat to size with a common utility knife. Just lift the edge of the mat and cut the proper width. Its not difficult. Once the washer and dryer are placed on this solid base, you wont have ANY problems with vibration or noise. Even an apartment installation would be adequate to dampen vibration to those below the apartment. It works great. The base looks professional too if you make it to the exact size of the washer/dryer combo".

I will post the results after installation.


clipped on: 02.07.2010 at 05:13 pm    last updated on: 02.07.2010 at 05:15 pm

RE: Possible cure for second or first floor F/L vibration woes (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: monaw on 02.05.2010 at 11:06 am in Laundry Room Forum

I'm happy to report that the 3/4 inch plywood and the 3/4 inch stall mat worked beautifully on the second story. We did, however, already have hardwood floors installed which the plywood was placed on, so that added extra reinforcement. I would recommend going with the one inch oak as the gentleman above used for those do not have that extra support!
I can tell you we are sure glad that we went to the extra expense and trouble to reinforce the floor and put the mat down! The Miele installers were quite impressed with the mat and wanted to know where I got it. They said it was one of the quietest second floor installation that they had ever done! We can feel a slight vibration when we're near the laundry room as it starts to go into it's spin and starts to come down, but it's not bad at all, and lasts a very short time. It is not nearly as loud as our top loader set was. With the old washer there was a constant humming all over the house and especially in the family room below. Other than the spin we can't hear anything at all, no sloshing,...nothing. It's completely quiet. I have to open the laundry room door to see that it is actually running! That's a pleasant surprise!! We also put a the stall mat under the dryer to help muffle the potential hum. (we had enough left to do so) There is a slight hum with the dryer, but again not nearly as loud as the old set. The techs said that the new Miele drier is a lot more quiet than the old one. They installed a "ridged vent" which is supposed to cut the noise of the air, which it did nicely.
So there's my report....I'm doing laundry today :) So far very pleased with the machines! Dirty white socks are coming out perfectly clean on the bottom with Persil detergent and hot water...something ol' toploader couldn't handle!


clipped on: 02.07.2010 at 05:15 pm    last updated on: 02.07.2010 at 05:15 pm

RE: If you have or know someone with a steam oven (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: gizmonike on 11.25.2009 at 03:57 pm in Appliances Forum

We have a Gaggenau Combi-steam oven and we use it daily. This was my must-have appliance and it has exceeded our expectations -- it was expensive but we would do it again.

It is convection, so it does double-duty as an oven, not just steaming. Steam can be added to higher (than steam) temperature for baking or roasting without drying out the food, or zero steam for recipes that require dry heat. The oven capacity is smaller than a conventional oven, but it can hold a 13" x 9" casserole dish, and the smaller size means it heats more quickly and is perfect for small family use.

It can hold several trays of food, and these can be mixed, so you could do an entire dinner in the oven. We purchased some half trays for versatility.

It is plumbed, so no filling water containers or wiping it dry.

Reheating a plate of food in the Combi-steam takes about 10 minutes, and does not dry the food out the way a microwave does. We choose the microwave or the steam for reheating depending on the type & texture of the food.


clipped on: 01.25.2010 at 06:41 pm    last updated on: 01.25.2010 at 06:42 pm