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RE: fabulous ( and simple) magnetic or chalkboard idea (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: forboystoo on 06.28.2011 at 09:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Are we not suppose to just post the photos ?

Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.simplyfrugal.ca/2011/06/diy-project-cookie-sheet-magnetic-board/

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clipped on: 06.28.2011 at 09:43 pm    last updated on: 06.28.2011 at 09:43 pm

Gel Stain Instructions (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: buehl on 03.02.2010 at 11:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

How to Gel Stain Your Cabinets


From CelticMoon...


You just need time, maybe $50 in supplies, and patience. No skill.

Here's more than you need to know:

My cabinets are frameless, good condition and good layout. But the finish had gone orange and ugly, with the oak graining too busy for me. Cabinets are 18 years old, very poorly finished oak veneered slab doors. Plain with no crevices. They didn't even take the doors off to finish them!!! No stain or finish on the hinge side edges. Cheezey, huh?

I looked into changing out cabinets, but that was way too much money, since my layout was OK. Painting didn't seem right because the doors were plain slabs. I considered new doors but that still meant a lot of money. For a few years I tried to figure a way to add molding toward a mission look, but the rounded door edges made that impossible. Then trolling in a kitchen emporium showroom this last year I noticed dark wood slab doors, kind like mine, but darker. That was the answer.

First I tried Minwax Polyshades. Dicey product. Hard to brush on neatly, then gummy, then seemed to leave a sticky tacky residue. I did a thread on the Woodworking Furum "Evil Polyshades to the Rescue" which elicited a lot of conflicting "expert" opinions and arguments that one must strip to bare wood.

(Thread may still be around as that Forum moves slow.) I properly stripped acres of woodwork in an old Victorian when I was young and stupid. Never again! Jennifer-in-clyde (in the same boat) and I stumbled around on that woodworking thread to get to this method.


Shopping List:

  • electric screwdriver or screw drill bits
  • mineral spirits to clean the years of gunk off the cabinet
  • miracle cloths (optional)
  • fine sandpaper
  • box-o-disposable gloves from walgreens or the like
  • old socks or rags for wiping on coats
  • disposable small plastic bowls or plates, and plastic spoons or forks for stirring/dipping (optional)
  • General Finishes water base Expresso stain (pretty thick, but not quite a gel) This one may not even be a needed step if the Java gets it dark enough.
  • General Finishes Java gel stain (poly based)
  • General Finishes clear top coat (poly based)
  • old sheets or plastic sheeting or newspaper

    Rockler woodworking stores are a good place to find the General Finish products. Or some larger hardware stores. Quart of each was more than enough for my 60 doors and drawer fronts and goes for $12-14 at Rockler. There are smaller sizes if your project is small.


    Setup and Planning:

    You will need a place to work and leave wet doors to dry overnight - I set up 2 spaces, garagefor sanding/cleaning and basement for staining/sealing. Use newpaper or plastic to protect the surface and floor. Figure out how you will prop doors to dry.

    Plan blocks of 20-30-minutes for sanding/cleaning bundles of, say, 6 doors at a time. Then just 10 minute sessions to wipe on coats. The coats will need to dry for about 24 hours, so figure that each section of the kitchen will be doorless for 4 or 5 days. Divide the job up into manageable chunks.


    Preparation:

    • Take off doors and drawer fronts. Use screw drill bits on an electric drill if you don't have an electric srewdriver. Remove all the hardware. *Mark alike things so you know what goes back where.*
    • Clean the doors thoroughly. Not with TSP but with something pretty strong and scrub well. There's years of grease there.
    • Sand LIGHTLY, just a scuffing really. Just enough to break the finish and give it some tooth, no more than a minute a door. A miracle cloth is good for getting most of the dust off. Then wipe well with mineral spirits to clean and get the last of the gunk off.


    Staining:

    • In order, we're gonna put on:
      1. General Finishes Expresso water based stain (1-2 coats) - optional
      2. General Finishes Java gel stain (couple coats)
      3. General Finishes Clear urethene gel topcoat in satin (couple coats)

    • But first put on work clothes, tie up your hair (Tom, you may skip this step, LOL) and pop your phone into a baggie nearby (you know it will ring).
    • Glove up.
    • *First do a trial on the back of a door and check if Java coats alone suffice. If the Java alone is to your liking, just skip the Expresso and return it.*

    • Open and stir up the Expresso stain, then spoon some into a plastic bowl.

    • Close the tin so it doesn't get contaminated.

    • Slide a sock over your hand, grab a gob of Expresso and smear it on. Wipe off the excess. Let it dry well - overnight is good. It will lighten as it dries, but then darken again with any other coat or sealer. A second coat can end up with a deeper tone at the end - though it might seem like the second coat is just dissolving the first. YMMV.
    • Repeat with Java gel. This is thicker and poly based (*not water cleanup!*=messier). Color is a rich dark reddish brown.

    • Wait for the second coat to judge if the color is deep enough for you. I wanted a very deep dark color, like melted dark chocolate. So I went pretty heavy on these layers. *I did not sand between coats*.
    • Repeat with clear gel top coat. This will give you the strength you need in a kitchen.
    • Do the same process with the cabinet sides, face and toekick area. Might need to divide that up also, and stagger the work: doors/cabinets/doors/etc.
    • NOTE: The cloth or socks used for the gels are very flammable! Collect and store them in a bucket of water as you go and then dispose of them all properly.


    Finishing and Reassembly:

    • I suggest you put the doors back up after one clear coat, then you can check everything over and darken an area with more Java if needed, followed by a clear coat.

    • When it all looks right, go over it all again with another clear gel coat. Or two.

    • Install your hardware.

    • The feel of the finish should be wonderful, really smooth and satiny. Color deep and rich - way nicer than that faded, beat 80's oak color.


    Final Thoughts:

    • Definitely experiment first with the back of a door or drawer front to be sure it is the look you want.

    • Yes, this takes a couple days to coat, dry, recoat, dry, etc but you may discover that the Java alone does the trick and this will save you A LOT of work.

    • Front end patience is worth it.
    • This is a pretty easy project to do. Hard to screw it up. The worst is the prep - relative to that, smearing on the coats is cake. I had over 60 pieces (big kitchen) AND island sides and book shelves, etc and I admit I lost steam partway through. Had to push myself through the last of it. But it was worth it. Folks think I got all new cabinets - it looks that good. Now the finish will not be as durable as factory finish - go at it with a Brillo pad and you WILL abrade it. But it has held up pretty well. And after a year of pretty heavy use, I've just had a few nicks, easily repaired.
    • I added smashing hardware, raised my passthrough, resurfaced the Corian (also simple but messy and tedious) and replaced the DW and sink. It looks gorgeous to me and I really enjoy the space - how it sits all quiet, clean and serene, then gets all crazy with the food and folks du jour. I couldn't be happier, especially that I didn't have to work another year just to pay for the update!!

    Link to cabinets in progress:
    http://photobucket.com/albums/b45/celticm00n/kitchen%20cosmetic%20update%20project/kitchen%20during/

    Link to almost finished cabinet pix:
    http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b45/celticm00n/kitchen%20cosmetic%20update%20project/finished%20bit%20by%20bit/?start=20n

    Good luck with your project!! Feel free to ask me any questions as you go.
    And let me know if you try it and how it turns out.


    Thread: Celticmoon, are you out there? Gel stain question (OT)

    Thread: Celticmoon?

    Thread: Evil Polyshades to the rescue????

  • NOTES:

    staining?
    clipped on: 06.26.2011 at 11:49 pm    last updated on: 06.26.2011 at 11:49 pm

    RE: Help with my vintage sink situation? Style mavens, grant me y (Follow-Up #15)

    posted by: arlosmom on 06.19.2011 at 09:00 am in Kitchens Forum

    Ideagirl, I just saw your post. Your sink is gorgeous. I really love the butter yellow color. And I'm impressed with your cabinet guys. We couldn't get ours to do the curved portion of the sink cabinet, but luckily my DH is a pretty skilled woodworker. Yours looks great.

    You mentioned my window trim in your post. The trim isn't what "builds out" the space behind the sink backsplash, it just butts up against a wooden box, about 4 inches deep, that doesn't show much in that head-on photo. Nutherokie's box behind the backsplash is exactly what we did too, except without the shelf brackets. Initially, I was going to look for small antique corbels for shelf supports, but opted for the simpler solution. Since the photo below we've swapped the white shelf for a walnut shelf which warms up the look. I love your idea of a marble shelf. I'll be watching for photos of your progress!

    Photobucket

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    clipped on: 06.26.2011 at 04:45 pm    last updated on: 06.26.2011 at 04:45 pm

    RE: Help with my vintage sink situation? Style mavens, grant me y (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: nutherokie on 06.18.2011 at 08:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Hi Ideagirl2, killer sink! It just so happens I've been wrestling with exactly the same issue. I thought I'd come up with a clever idea, but it didn't quite work out like I'd hoped. I still like it, it's just not exactly what I'd imagined. We (okay, the cabinet maker) built a box about six inches deep. I plan to have a marble shelf stretch from one side of the window to the other. It will rest on the box/sink and hold herb pots, pretty glasses, etc. Here are some pics to help give you some ideas.

    Box with bracket detail:Photobucket

    Here's a board laid on top to mimic the shelf:Photobucket

    Here's a view of the whole sink surround. We haven't got the doors below the sink in yet:Photobucket

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    clipped on: 06.26.2011 at 04:44 pm    last updated on: 06.26.2011 at 04:44 pm

    Help with my vintage sink situation? Style mavens, grant me your

    posted by: ideagirl2 on 06.18.2011 at 12:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Hello folks,

    So the saga continues: We're creating an art deco-ish 1930s-style kitchen in our 1930s home, we found a most amazing sink, and we have a slight dilemma. We want the sink installed as this style of sink was installed in the 30s, i.e., on a sink base that's shaped like the sink (with curved corners) and that sticks out a few inches from the cabinets on either side. Arlosmom's sink is an example:

    Photobucket

    This is our sink (it's butter yellow and about 4.5 feet wide):
    Photobucket

    But the thing is, these vintage sinks are only about 25" deep, if that... so only the depth of a standard counter. So the options, if you want them to stick out (which we definitely do), are either (1) have shallow base cabinets and counters on the sink wall, like only 21"-22" deep... but for storage and other reasons we would rather not do that; or (2) build up something behind the sink's backsplash, like in the next two pictures:

    Photobucket

    Or...
    Photobucket

    Does anyone have any other ideas, or other pictures of similar solutions, or suggestions? I like the approach in the first picture above, with the yellow tile, but am not totally sure how to do it since unlike those folks we're not planning on having a tile counter. We will have a vintage-y tile backsplash, but I'm not totally sure how to make it all work together.

    The plan is to put the sink below a window that's as wide as the sink and has the windowsill a couple of inches above the top of the sink's backsplash, like Arlosmom except that there's no window frame below our sill. We will tile that whole wall in a vintage-y fashion (probably cream tile with a green or black stripe, something along those lines). The base cabs are probably going to be some kind of stained wood, possibly light cherry; it's up in the air because we have to go look at the sink next to various wood options to see what color works best. The uppers will be painted wood, cream colored. For the counter, we're not yet sure. We are leaning towards wood in a contrasting color to the base cabs, so either very pale (silver maple? Birch?) or quite dark (walnut?). My husband is passionately opposed to tile counters. :-)

    Any ideas?? Thanks in advance for your help!

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    clipped on: 06.26.2011 at 04:43 pm    last updated on: 06.26.2011 at 04:43 pm

    RE: Please help me with glazing my painted cabinets (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: never_ending on 01.29.2008 at 10:27 pm in Paint Forum

    I took the doors down, and the handles off, I did leave the hinges on( lazy I know but you are only swiping glaze and I was careful)

    I cleaned them with ammonia and water with a drop of dawn. A professional painter may recommend something different but it worked for me. The gel stain was Minwax. I used Aged Oak (medium warm brown) which I think would be a nice color and would consider for my own green buffet. I did thin down the glaze slightly with regular paint thinner so it wasn't so gel like and it moved around longer. I think if you wanted to go with the gel I would thin it a bit too, it'll spread faster aqnd give you more working time.

    My first coat was Aged Oak slapped on lightly and evenly. It did change the red hue from red to a red brown, but when I wiped off it left barely no noticable difference in the original color of the red or if it did it was so subtle I didn't see it.

    I would slap on glaze/gel over entire door. With old towel wipe off everything but what you want to remain in crevices and let dry. You can always go over them again if you want them darker or browner. I would say offhand maybe 1 minute to slap on, three minutes to wipe off and finish? Dab with towel in hard to reach corners.

    My process was two parts, one for the brown glaze, one for the mahogany. Then I did do one coat of poly.

    I'd say you could do it in a weekend. Thursday night wipe down cabinets, take down doors and hardware, set up work area. Friday glaze and let dry(I would do the cabinet face frame too just in case there is a slight tone difference- after the glazing just wipe it completely off) Saturday poly.
    Sunday morn rehang doors. I did mine over Martin Luther King weekend. It went fast.

    If you have some old painted boards do a few practice slap on's and wipe off's. Plus you'll be able to see if the wiped off glaze does leave any noticable color behind. If you have painted cabinets then you certainly have the skills for this, it's just a more one door at a time project, than painting all the cabinets all the same color, each door is it's own project.

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    clipped on: 06.25.2011 at 12:11 pm    last updated on: 06.25.2011 at 12:12 pm

    RE: Please help me with glazing my painted cabinets(a href='http: (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: never_ending on 01.29.2008 at 08:47 pm in Paint Forum

    I just glazed my painted kitchen cabinets. I only washed them first I did not sand them. Most of what I read said not to sand so I didn't. You would not want the glaze to settle in the fine scratches sanding would leave. It was a very easy process, much easier than painting.

    I used a gel stain on mine. It was thick and heavy like a pudding and did not run. But I think it will depend on the look you are going for. What color do you want to see in your crevices? I did thin the gel stain a bit for my second application but that was because I wanted more of an overall tone to my doors.

    Things to remember:

    A glaze sits unprotected on a cabinet, so you will need to poly.

    It is very forgiving so you can wipe it off and start over. ( I did one set of cabinet doors three times in a row because I just wasn't happy with them after I stepped back to look at them, then I did get them right and moved on to the rest of them!)

    You can use a glazing compound mixed with a paint of your choice and keep adding paint until you get the depth of color you are looking for.

    I just finished my cabinets after painting them red,(they were once white too) Glazing was way easier than any painting, and very rewarding. I love how mine came out and have a green buffet I am considering glazing so I would love to know how yours come out!

    A link of glazes over paint I found helpful was General finishes. It'll give you an idea of what colors look like.

    I wanted my cabinets to be more brown and wood like and re-painting in a brown would have looked to flat to me. It is one of the best DIY I have ever done, and I've done a lot!!!

    Kitchen cabinets red:
    Kitchen Before

    Cabinets after, with two different glazes and a semi gloss poly:
    Photobucket

    Far view:
    Photobucket

    Here is a link that might be useful: glaze over paints

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    clipped on: 06.25.2011 at 12:09 pm    last updated on: 06.25.2011 at 12:10 pm

    Whose kitchen? One double-hung window to counter, and not other?

    posted by: la_koala on 06.21.2011 at 06:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Hi,

    Does anyone know which GardenWebber has this kitchen?
    Photobucket

    I want to show the window on the right (to counter) to my GC to illustrate what I want, and I'd like to give the proper credit ("copyright Name on GardenWeb")

    I've tried a search of GW of "window to counter", but there are hundreds of hits on that!

    Thanks!
    Lee

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    clipped on: 06.21.2011 at 07:55 pm    last updated on: 06.21.2011 at 07:55 pm

    RE: Tarting Up Your Kitchen (Follow-Up #11)

    posted by: sayde on 06.16.2011 at 04:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

    There is one large empty wall in my kitchen. Now filled by 12 framed prints -- they look like antique prints of butterflies but they are calender pages from the 2011 Cavallini calendar. They are very nicely printed; the colors are subtle and work together and in my room and the antique feeling of the prints is just what I wanted. They even provide a suggestion for how to arrange the 12 so it was a complete no-brainer. Measured them all and had mats, acrylic panes and backer boards made by American Frame. Found framing stock at a framing store that was going out of business and DH made that into the 12 frames, then I antiqued them with black. The entire project cost less than $400. The 2012 calendar will be issued in July -- thinking of buying that as well for the back hall.

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    clipped on: 06.16.2011 at 10:55 pm    last updated on: 06.16.2011 at 10:55 pm

    RE: Please help - window and upper cabs (Follow-Up #11)

    posted by: rhome410 on 06.15.2011 at 02:18 am in Kitchens Forum

    The problem with your renderings, I think, is scale of the objects. The hutch might look better if taller than the window a little. Definitely not touching the window, but maybe about 4 to 6 inches away from the trim. The shelves should also not fill the whole space, and I bet there's a better style... ;-)

    Looks a little familiar... Here is the elevation for my kitchen sink wall:

    Photobucket

    NOTES:

    Sink wall with some open shelving
    clipped on: 06.15.2011 at 08:25 am    last updated on: 06.15.2011 at 08:26 am

    Finished Cherry Kitchen with Delicatus Brown

    posted by: DreamweaverMAM on 04.22.2011 at 09:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I had shared some photos of my almost-done kitchen a few weeks ago. I guess I'm now ready for the final reveal. Since that time, my DH installed the under cabinet lighting which he created from LED strips and supplies which he ordered online. He had a few extra LED lights and I said, "Wouldn't it be cool to have lights under the sink that would turn on when you open the cabinet doors?" He said, "I can do that." (He's an electrical engineer.)

    We are absolutely loving our new kitchen. We had a bar-height counter with stools in our old kitchen, but we never ate there. We always ate in our dining room. Now we choose to eat in the kitchen whenever possible (and admire our results).

    The sawdust and sweat and stress are becoming distant memories as we work in a space that is so much more functional for us.

    We had painted white cabinets for over twenty years, so unlike many of you, with this redesign we opted for stained cabinets. We're big fans of arts and crafts style furniture and homes. Even though our home is a late 70's split level, we wanted to incorporate a slight arts and crafts feel into our space. We love the beauty of wood and natural surfaces.

    Here is what we started with:

    Before: looking east

    Before

    Here is how it looks now:

    Cherry kitchen

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    LOVE the Silgranit sink! Thanks GW. I think I first found GardenWeb when it kept showing up on my Google search results while I was looking for sink info. We were already part-way through our process at that point.

    Corner sink with silgranite sink

    We bought a new range out of necessity before we decided that a new kitchen was a "go." We previously had a smooth-top electric range and liked it quite a bit. After reviewing other options including gas or induction, we ended up deciding to stick with the smoothtop. We like the Electolux a lot. We're obviously not afraid of electronics--no knobs to be found.

    Photobucket

    We used to have a microwave the size of a small house on the counter. I'm thrilled to have the microwave off of the counter.

    Photobucket

    My next project is to tear the blue carpet out of the dining room and continue the hardwood in there. I had originally hoped to match the existing hardwood and run it into the kitchen, but unanticipated complications caused us to change course mid-stream. The new kitchen flooring is comfortable to stand on and is a dream to clean, so I'm very happy with my choice.

    Next project: replace the blue carpet

    Lighting under the sink:

    auto-on under-sink LED lighting

    The granite:

    love that granite

    Photobucket

    The hardware:

    Photobucket

    The details:

    Cabinets: Custom Cherry, Candleglow Stain (Paradise Custom Kitchens) with Blum soft-close doors and soft-close drawers, glass inserts with prairie mullions
    Hardware: Amerock Inspirations - Wrought Iron Dark
    Extras: peka Magic Corner Pull-out, Spice Rack on back of upper cabinet door, Double Trash pull-out, utensil organizers
    Granite: Delicatus Brown with 1/4” beveled edge
    Backsplash: MSI Crema Marfil Tumbled Marble 3x6 with Bone grout
    Flooring: Congoleum Duraceramic (Tobacco Clay) installed with (Pearl Gray?) grout
    Sink: BlancoPrecis 1 & 3/4 Bowl Undermount in Anthracite with Blanco black strainer baskets
    Faucet: Moen Medora Single Handle Pullout - Classic Stainless
    Range: Electrolux Free-Standing Wave-Touch Electric Range
    Chimney Style Hood: 30” Zephyr Anzio
    Refrigerator: Samsung French Door RFG298AARS
    Dishwasher: KitchenAid KUDS30IXSS
    Microwave: GE Profile Spacemaker II PEM31 with trim kit
    Under Cabinet Lighting: Dimmable LED strips with on/off wall switch and dimmer control mounted under cabinet-Custom designed by DH with supplies from US LED Supply
    Under Sink Lighting - turns on automatically when the cabinet door is opened - custom designed with supplies from US LED Supply by DH
    Pendant Lights: American Foursquare by Murray Feiss
    Recessed Lights: Juno IC20 5” with wheat haze 216WHZ-WH

    Thanks to everyone on GW for your ideas and support through the process.

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    clipped on: 06.08.2011 at 01:09 pm    last updated on: 06.08.2011 at 01:10 pm

    RE: Critique Needed of Floor Plan and Craftsman 'look' Elevation (Follow-Up #8)

    posted by: chicagoans on 06.06.2011 at 12:04 pm in Building a Home Forum

    Since you got some good info above, I just wanted to point out one thing that seems tiny but would make me nuts: shorten the wall next to your refrigerator, or consider putting a broom closet/cabinet between the ref and the wall. (I've seen great pullouts that hold a bunch of stuff even tho they're only 4" wide. Pic below.) With the ref right next to that wall, you won't be able to open the door wide enough (past 90 degrees) to remove the drawers for cleaning. (My old ref was in a corner and I hated it.)

    I'd highly recommend posting your kitchen layout on the kitchens forum. The layout pros there will help you get the most functionality out of your space. Oh and may I just add: drawers drawers drawers (instead of pullout shelves for your lower kitchen cabs.)

    Broom pullout only 4" wide:
    Photobucket

    Here is a link that might be useful: Thread on drawers in kitchen - some good pics

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    clipped on: 06.07.2011 at 02:15 pm    last updated on: 06.07.2011 at 02:16 pm

    RE: Backsplash FINALLY going in!! (Follow-Up #42)

    posted by: holligator on 06.05.2011 at 10:25 am in Kitchens Forum

    @mythreesonsnc, sorry I didn't see your question sooner! My tile guy ended up not using spacers at all. He tried using them at first, but with handmade tiles, the edges are uneven and with even spaces, the tiles were no longer lined up. So, he just eyeballed the spaces and put in tiny shims in the places that needed them to keep things lined up. You can kind of make out the shims in the picture.

    @Lake_Girl, the soapstone is Black Venata. It's one of the softer varieties, but I love it! It was installed by the wonderful FloridaJoshua. His shop is Creative Soapstone in Punta Gorda, Florida.

    OK, I haven't been able to get good "finished" pics, but I thought I would post a couple of after-grout pics anyway. Sorry for the phone photography quality!

    And, this is completely unrelated to my backsplash, but here's my favorite thing in the whole kitchen...the giant pear!

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    clipped on: 06.06.2011 at 10:08 am    last updated on: 06.06.2011 at 11:03 pm

    RE: Please Help with Mudroom Plan (Follow-Up #8)

    posted by: SummerfieldDesigns on 12.19.2010 at 05:10 am in Building a Home Forum

    i think that the 18" depth is adequate ... gave you a deep drawer alternative ... love the charging station idea Image and video hosting by TinyPic..very clever!

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    clipped on: 06.06.2011 at 05:10 pm    last updated on: 06.06.2011 at 05:10 pm

    RE: Please Help with Mudroom Plan (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: SummerfieldDesigns on 12.18.2010 at 07:58 pm in Building a Home Forum

    Image and video hosting by TinyPic

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    clipped on: 06.06.2011 at 05:08 pm    last updated on: 06.06.2011 at 05:09 pm

    RE: Please Help with Mudroom Plan (Follow-Up #16)

    posted by: lishaana on 12.22.2010 at 09:38 pm in Building a Home Forum

    Our mudroom bench is 60" wide and 17" deep(we didn't have much room to work with). We have 4 drawers for shoes and they fit quite a number of pairs. I can fit about 8 pairs of my size 6.5 shoes(more if i cram them in). My DH can fit about 4-5 pairs in his drawer. Tall boots I lay on their side(they have their own drawer). My two girls (6 & 3) share a drawer.
    We didn't make cubbies, rather our cabinet maker made 2 rows of hooks that are adjustable side-to side. I find this very convenient when i have something wide to hang. Above the hooks are 4 cubbies and above that are two 30" wide wall cabinets. Both the cubbies and the wall cabs are 12" deep (I probably would have made them deeper if I had the space).

    Across from the bench is our mail station/drop area. It includes a trash pull-out, a pull-out with an outlet behind it for a shredder and multiple drawers(including a shallow toekick drawer). Above that we have wall bins for sorting mail and magazines, hooks for keys etc and a wall charging station.

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

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    clipped on: 06.06.2011 at 05:07 pm    last updated on: 06.06.2011 at 05:07 pm

    RE: holligator- island size? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: holligator on 04.05.2009 at 09:03 am in Kitchens Forum

    Hi, and sorry to be so long in responding, but I've been traveling (and handling repairs via phone). Thanks for the kind words!

    These plans for my island and for the overall layout changed slightly in terms of cabinet configuration, but the measurements on the things you're asking about stayed almost exactly the same, so I hope they are helpful.

    Oh, and the ceilings held up fine! :)

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    clipped on: 06.06.2011 at 08:41 am    last updated on: 06.06.2011 at 08:42 am

    RE: Baking Center: Why, How, What, And Where? (Follow-Up #32)

    posted by: cotehele on 04.04.2011 at 05:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Why & Where: We had an unexpected little addition between the house and the new garage I was originally going to use as a storage area and pantry. But I thought, what a waste of nice space. I could not find the right spot for the ovens in the kitchen so I made it into the bakery.

    How & What: There is a place to mix and roll out dough as well as shelf and counter space for ingredients in my bakery. Sorry the pictures are fragmented, but I'll try to note where things are stored. The space is 8' wide and 18' long. Zones are the way to go, and that includes pantry items, IMHO because cooking/baking is more efficient. I don't have much of a pantry because all my baking supplies are where I mix and bake.

    The room is adjacent to the kitchen. I like the ovens accessible to the kitchen but not IN the kitchen.

    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    The drawer below the ovens stores the peels, roasting trays and baguette pans. Above are the glass and aluminum baking dishes in the lower layer and plastics, tupperware, and cookie cutters above.

    The counter is next to the ovens. Two KA mixers and the Zo breadmaker are behind the doors. The top drawer has utensils, middle drawer parchment papers, foil and oven mits. The bottom drawer has all the baking trays. It is much easier to bend down than to reach above the ovens to get trays.

    Photobucket

    DH's grandmother's Napanee Kitchenet is beside the marble counter. It has most frequently used ingredients as well as storage for extra flours and other baking ingredients.

    Photobucket

    The other side of the room has a sink and more storage. Just bookcases from Staples repurposed from my office. Behind the curtains are small electrics: food processor, microwave, paper/plastic/foil storage on the right. Left has large mixing bowls, most cooling racks and rising pitchers. The middle are various flours and cookboks.

    Photobucket
    Photobucket

    Hope this helps.

    J

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 06.05.2011 at 04:19 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2011 at 04:19 pm

    RE: Ikea butcher block countertops (Follow-Up #20)

    posted by: jenswrens on 06.01.2009 at 06:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

    hi dirtymartini,

    DH cut and installed ours - really easy if you have the right tools (table saw, circular saw (or was it a jigsaw?), etc). Our sink is an undermount also. The seam ended up on part of the sink cutout but that was because we wanted to use as much length of the board as possible with the fewest cuts. Had we put more thought & effort into it, we could've avoided that, but we haven't had any problems with the seam or the undermount.

    Photobucket

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 06.02.2011 at 10:01 pm    last updated on: 06.02.2011 at 10:01 pm

    New Kitchen Pics

    posted by: scottno on 04.04.2011 at 05:02 am in Kitchens Forum

    Here are some pics of our new kitchen.

    Before

    Before

    Before

    href="http://s1136.photobucket.com/albums/n491/scottno1/?action=view&current=Before.jpg" target="_blank">Before

    After

    After

    After

    After

    After

    After

    NOTES:

    Cherry sunset with chocolate glaze
    clipped on: 06.02.2011 at 03:05 pm    last updated on: 06.02.2011 at 03:05 pm

    Finished Kitchen: Circa 1840 Working Farmhouse, IKEA Budget Reno

    posted by: brickmanhouse on 08.19.2010 at 01:46 am in Kitchens Forum

    Hi all,

    Well, we've finally got a (mostly) finished kitchen! This kitchen's been in the planning stages for 8 years and I've been in and out of this forum for just about that long-- wow, time flies! Whether I've posted or just lurked, the information I've gotten here has been INVALUABLE.

    I can unequivocally say that my kitchen would not look anything like what it does without this Forum, and for that I offer my profound gratitude-- there is, quite literally, no way I could have done it without all of you, past and present.

    So, here are the photos of the finished result:

    From 2010-0818

    From 2010-0818

    From 2010-0818

    From 2010-0818

    From 2010-0818

    From 2010-0818

    From 2010-0818

    For the entire album with detailed photos, just click on the link below any of the photos above!

    Here are the details:

    Cabinetry: IKEA Lidingo White (with glass uppers) for the perimeter, Tidaholm Brown/Black for the island
    Island Knobs & Pulls: Anne at Home Farm Collection and Lewis Dolin Glass Cup Pulls (from Myknobs.com)
    Perimeter Knobs and Pulls: Anne at Home Horse Collection, generic polished chrome knobs, cup pulls, and bar pulls (from Myknobs.com)
    Wall Paint: BM Revere Pewter
    Trim, Hood, and Fireplace Paint: Valspar Bright White (from Lowes)
    Perimeter Counters: IKEA Butcher Block, stained Black with India Ink and sealed with Waterlox
    Island Counter: IKEA Butcher Block, sealed with Watco food safe butcher block sealer
    Main Sink: Whitehaus 36" farm sink (from Vintagetub.com)
    Island Sink: IKEA single Domsjo, undermounted instead of the usual overmount installation
    Faucets: IKEA Hjuvik
    Refrigerator: Because we grow a lot of what we eat (so we don't need to store much) and have a large fridge in an adjacent laundry room, we chose a generic small undercounter fridge (Home Depot, off the shelf)
    Wine chiller: Sunbeam (Home Depot, off the shelf)
    Dishwashers: Kenmore and Hotpoint, both existing and 5-7 years old
    Microwaves: 8 year old Kenmores
    Island Oven: IKEA Datid 30"
    Hood: ProLine 36" range hood (from eBay)
    Range: IKEA Praktfull Pro A50
    Backsplash Behind Range: Handthrown Williamsburg brick (local brickyard, left over from another project)
    Flooring: Lumber Liquidators, Hand Scraped Teak
    Island and Sink Pendants: IKEA Ottava
    Cabinet lights: IKEA Grundtal single puck lights
    Chandelier over the Table: Progress lighting, black 5-light chandelier (Home Depot, off the shelf)
    Fireplace: Style Selections 36" Vent Free LP fireplace (Lowes, off the shelf)

    A few notes about the remodel, just to hit some discussion points I see come up a lot in this Forum:

    Our kitchen lives in a big old 1840 farmhouse, which has been part of a working farm since the day it was built. Originally it was soybeans, but now it's part of a gentleman's farm (horses, heritage gardens and poultry), so everything has to be hard wearing and practical. It needs to stand up to heavy traffic, mud, hay, tools, and the occasional chicken (though usually when they wander in, they don't go much further than the family room, because they like the television). That definitely informed our choices for surfaces-- they needed to be hard cleanable, and ultimately easily refinished or replaced down the line.

    Because the entire house already has strong architectural elements (huge moldings and built-ins), we worked within the style we already had-- all the kitchen moldings, mantels, panels and cabinets match (or are closely styled after) what already exists in the house. We definitely didn't do a period kitchen (we wanted a 2010 layout with all the conveniences), but we wanted the kitchen to look like it belonged in the house.

    The big thing for us was budget-- believe it or not, the entire kitchen was done for UNDER $20K. Four big things contributed to that:

    1/ We DIY'ed the ENTIRE project, start to finish. The only thing we hired out was the gas line install for the fireplace and range, because state law requires it. Other than that, all planning, demo, sourcing, and construction was on us. Might be why it took us 8 years. . .

    2/ We reused what we could, and scrounged a lot, especially construction materials (which could have been buckets of money, considering all the custom work we did in the space), and kept what appliances we could. It was also a great way to be environmentally responsible on a project that, let's face it, has a lot of non-necessities involved.

    3/ IKEA, IKEA, IKEA. If you're anywhere reasonably close to an IKEA, and you're on anything approaching a budget, go check it out. The cabinet quality for the price can't be beat (except for a few pockets of custom cabinet makers), and there are a lot of great accessories, appliances, lighting and other things to be had for a terrific price. As always, you have to pick and choose your items for quality and value, but at least in our experience, it is definitely there to be had for the buyer with a good eye.

    4/ We didn't go for major appliance upgrades. Our whole family LOVES to cook (and eat!), and we wanted a great looking, functional space to do it all in, but we just weren't convinced that we needed more than the basics right now. If we want to upgrade down the line, it's easy enough to do, but right now our Wolf budget is standing in our barn eating hay, and our LaCanche budget is steered towards this Show Hunter prospect I have my eye on . . .

    So there's our formula for a great kitchen that works for us considering the (kind of odd!) parameters we had. Hope you all can take at least something useful away from our experience.

    I've submitted the kitchen to the FKB, and I'll answer whatever questions you've got. . .

    Thanks again, everyone!

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 05.30.2011 at 08:55 pm    last updated on: 05.30.2011 at 08:55 pm

    Elizpiz's kitchen (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: florantha on 06.12.2010 at 03:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Here's the benchmark big bookshelf kitchen....

    Here is a link that might be useful: ElizPiz's kitchen with big bookshelf

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 05.22.2011 at 11:36 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2011 at 11:36 pm

    Need bookshelf design for wall en route to dining room

    posted by: florantha on 06.12.2010 at 02:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

    We're going to need a custom-made cupboard or shelf unit to ride to the left of our new door which communicates between the kitchen and dining room. The door and the shelf unit will be in the same plane, not perpendicular. It will be just shy of 6 feet side to side and can extend to the 8 foot ceiling if it wants to. Depth: 15 inches, including back. Okay for the moldings to extend farther forward. Light oak.

    What's the largest span that a bookshelf can extend across before it begins to bow under the weight of books?

    The unit will hold cookbooks and another collection of reference books and will also serve for some display. (Am considering having sliding doors with tempered glass fronts in the lower area, for china storage but am not sure as to how important that will be until I find out how much our new kitchen cupboards can hold.) I'm not sure how to handle display space--would like to give it a modern flair by having some defined display openings within the book area, but don't want them to be hard to see into. Cupboard will mostly be seen from the side as people enter the dining room.

    The display items are antiques, many of them silverplate, which means they tarnish. In the best of all possible worlds, they would go behind glass also. We had to get rid of a humongo display unit, which was on the other side of the wall because it could only fit in the space if there was no door. So it goes.

    Any words of wisdom or images of good-looking bookshelves? Have looked at a number of kitchen bookshelves on the FKB, but except for elizpiz, the ones I've seen so far are nowhere near the size of this puppy.

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 05.22.2011 at 11:35 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2011 at 11:36 pm

    VOTE ... Which Cabinet Door (narrowed down to 2 choices)

    posted by: angela12345 on 04.07.2011 at 05:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Here are the 2 doors for consideration. Both would be in Cherry with a Chestnut stain same as door on the right. Both would have raised panel doors, but the drawer fronts on both will be flat (not raised as pictured on right).

    The door on the left is $800 less (I like that!). It has a curve leading up to the raised panel, where the door on the right has a curve ending in a little bitty "ledge". I like the curve on the left door better especially because I think it would be easier to keep clean. This house will be a weekly vacation rental, so cabinets will probably only be wiped down when I am there in the off season. The door on the left has a rounded outside edge, where the one on the right has a slight (ogee?) detail on the outside edge (hard to tell in the picture). I like the detail on the outside edge of the right door better than the left because it looks dressier. Our inspiration kitchen is jodi_in_so_calif with the beautiful Fire & Ice backsplash !!

    Question ... when turning a corner with frameless, how much filler is needed ? I just want to make sure my KD isn't giving up more than is needed. I used to think I really wanted frameless, but now I'm not so sure "it's all that". For example, with cabinet doors, yes there is the face frame, but at least you still have access to the space inside the cabinet behind the face frame !! With frameless, that space is used with fillers *outside* of the cabinet, so you lose space !! Also, with drawers, yes you gain interior space with frameless, but then you lose space with fillers outside of the drawer cabinet. Especially when your kitchen turns 5 corners like mine. Thank goodness for Ultracraft cabinets where my cabinets can be semi-custom sized to the 1/8 inch !!!!

    Please feel free to vote on my vent hood in the other thread ... http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0400010817802.html

    Another question ... there are cabinets over my prep sink. It is 18" to the light rail (+1.5" to the bottom of cabinet). It's not my main sink - is there a problem with this ? (please say "no problem"!!). See cabinet layouts ...

    NOTES:

    Love the kitchen cab and the backsplash
    clipped on: 05.18.2011 at 12:52 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2011 at 12:53 pm