Clippings by mom2tykel

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for Peke - pics of undersink drawers

posted by: carolml on 03.05.2013 at 02:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Peke,
I posted this in your original post from January, then wondered if you would find it.

Home again. Here are the photos I promised you. As you can see, the main sink, which is quite deep, has two drawers, one shallow one - note the small cut out at the back to accommodate the drain, and a standard 12" one below. The counter is 27" deep, so the drawers are full depth.
The prep sink has a very shallow cabinet - only 21" deep because of a book case built in the gable behind it. The drawer here is only just big enough to fit my trash, compost, bird seed and a few cleaning products. We have put it on a servo drive, so the door glides open with just a touch. It is fantastic when preparing food on the adjacent counter. The cabinet maker built a shelf to raise the level of the compost bin so that it comes just under the sink bowl and does not require bending to deposit green material.
There are also photos with the drawers removed to show you how the plumbing pipes are pushed against the back of the cabinet.
We love this set up. For the first time ever, the undersink area is fully functional. Hope this helps.
main sink photo P1020085_zps22f8e4ff.jpg
shallow top drawer photo P1020086_zpse3d7ff68.jpg
plumbing photo P1020088_zpsc0d4c5d9.jpg
prep sink photo P1020090_zps4c7c5406.jpg
compost and trash photo P1020091_zpse9b1cd25.jpg
plumbing photo P1020094_zps1802b6bf.jpg
shelf photo P1020095_zps0a37eb0c.jpg


Sink plumbing; drawer depth
clipped on: 03.10.2013 at 08:14 am    last updated on: 03.10.2013 at 08:15 am

RE: Stop the mold from growing on my ceiling and walls! (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: ralleia on 01.29.2012 at 10:30 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Our master bathroom had a terrible mold problem as well. Moisture would condense on the ceiling and drip down, and then mold grew on the ceiling and the upper edges of the walls.

You will certainly need to ensure that your ductwork vents properly to the OUTSIDE, first of all, as other posters have indicated. Also as others have indicated, the length, duct size, and especially turns will have an impact on how strong the fan will need to be.

When we remodeled the bathroom I wanted to take no chances with mold regrowth. Since it was growing on the drywall I had it all ripped out. Since we were going with a large number of recessed fixtures anyway, it made sense.

Instead of ordinary drywall we installed greenboard, which is better for damp environments like bathrooms.

Then I sized the fan properly. We went with Panasonic Whisper Fans in each of our bathrooms. Since our bathrooms are small sized, and the duct runs were short, it turned out that the smallest fans were sufficiently powerful. They are also very quiet.

Finally, I had installed a timer switch in the bathroom. The switch has three positions. On, off, and timed.

On turns on the lights and the fan. So any time the lights are on and someone is in the bathroom, the quiet little fan is running.

Off is just off.

The third position is set to a 30 minute timer on the fan.

Simply running the fan while you shower is insufficient to properly ventilate the moisture in the bathroom. To ventilate the moisture, the fan needs to run for about an additional 20 minutes AFTER the shower is over.

So we take a shower or bath, and when we walk out we flip the switch all the way down. The timer turns the fan on (no light) for 30 minutes and exhausts the moisture.

Voila! No more mold problems (and it has been seven years now).


Timed switches for exhaust fan in bathroom.
clipped on: 02.26.2012 at 07:00 pm    last updated on: 02.26.2012 at 07:01 pm

Radiant or heated floors

posted by: tncraft on 02.13.2012 at 10:12 pm in Bathrooms Forum

There was a discussion on heated floors where several posters recommended to have 2 of "something". I tried to search but I can't find the discussion. I don't remember what that "something". It was along the lines of, if "it" fails, you'll have a backup and don't need to rip out your floor. Maybe, sensors???



2 probes incase one becomes defective
clipped on: 02.19.2012 at 01:18 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2012 at 01:18 pm

RE: utilizing space under the stairs (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: arlosmom on 08.22.2011 at 01:59 pm in Organizing the Home Forum

Here's another recent thread about under the stairs pantries. There are some really good pictures toward the end of the thread.

Here is a link that might be useful: second pantry under the stairs thread


clipped on: 09.05.2011 at 04:01 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2011 at 04:02 pm

RE: Dream Thread! (What do you wish you had now?) (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: angela12345 on 06.03.2011 at 12:20 am in Building a Home Forum

Here are links to some of the earlier threads . . . - unique/favorite features in your build.... - Things you couldn't live without or wish you had added - What things did you find needed adjusting or changed? - is there anything you wish you had done - What about your new build makes your life easier; what doesn't ? - Brands/Products That I'd Use Again - Share your best sites for deals on supplies! - To help others - Things I would do different and things i love! - Things I wish I'd specified on my plans - It's been two years...what I've learned, would change, etc... - Biggest Mistakes? - Help!!! Have I forgotten anything? - designing electrical in house - doing whole house audio


clipped on: 07.30.2011 at 11:12 am    last updated on: 07.30.2011 at 11:12 am

RE: Cabinet Latches - Yes or too much work? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: pps7 on 07.01.2011 at 07:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

I love latches, but do find them annoying. I put them in my dining room built in hutch so that I can have the look without the inconvenience as these door are opened infrequently.

Since you love latches, put them somewhere, but maybe not on the most frequently opened door. Mixing and matching is a great look.



clipped on: 07.04.2011 at 05:51 pm    last updated on: 07.04.2011 at 05:51 pm

RE: Tiling above top of upper cabinets? DIY? How? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: jakabedy on 01.20.2011 at 12:15 am in Kitchens Forum

pussuskattus -

I'm glad you knew. We knew, too, and decided to tackle it, anyway. It worked out OK, but there were/are some issues.

We had trouble with the consistency of the first batch of thinset (DH mixed it, so I don't know what actually happened). So the first sheet was really smushed into the stuff -- deeper than succeeding tiles.

Also, you'll be doing the bottom row first, then the next row, etc. There needs to be a mortar line between the rows that matches the line on the sheets. I would suggest getting some very small spacers, or something to act as those spacers. I thought we could hold the sheets in place fairly well, but they still settled down more than I would have liked.

You'll need to get special cutters designed for glass. You can get them at a craft store in the mosaic section. They have little wheels on them. You'll have cuts to make and they won't always (ever) be perfect. Plan to order a couple extra sheets of tile just for spares.

I figured out that it was best to cut out the edges of the sheets in little crennelations (sp?) to match the stagger of the tiles. That way you can see the actual edges of your tiles as you are butting that sheet up to the next sheet.

We were afraid that the pattern of the large "tiles" might be visible, so we staggered the second row in a brick pattern above the first, etc.. This worked out pretty well.

It will work much better if you have two people. Once can focus on keeping the thinset mixed and ready and the other can set the tile. And whoever is free can be working off the paper when the time is right. We didn't get the paper off soon enough. I think if we had I would have seen some of the alignment issues. We also wouldn't have had the problem of bits of brown paper stuck in the thinset between the sheets.


Do you know if you are going to end on a full tile where you meet the crown at the ceiling? If not, that will be an awful lot of tile cutting all the way across the wall. I don't know how to remedy that especially, but it's something to think about.

As for the cabinet crown, are you taling about just where it hits the wall? Because I'm thinking that it might be easier to pull the crown off, then tile. Then you can just trim off the very back of the crown and reinstall it. Cutting glass tiles to meet crown is going to be an inexact science.

As for install, we covered the cabinets and range with cardboard, and then with a big canvas dropcloth. Then we stood on the countertops to do the work. You're probably going to want to do this, as a ladder might not get you close enough to the wall to do what you need to do.

As for tiling behind the hood, I had planned to do that, too. But I miscalculated the amount of tile and we were short about 2.5 sheets. Rather than have to wait and order those sheets, this was our ad hoc solution:


But you'd never know it (don't tell!):


paper faced tile
clipped on: 06.06.2011 at 09:16 pm    last updated on: 06.12.2011 at 06:47 pm

RE: Cabinet over Refrigerator--What goes in there? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: zelmar on 06.03.2011 at 02:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

Tray storage and tv storage. We ordered the tracks for the dividers with our cabinets. They were full height and dh cut them down and put in the extra shelf after we were comfortable with what size items we wanted to store there.



clipped on: 06.03.2011 at 05:44 pm    last updated on: 06.03.2011 at 05:44 pm

RE: Cabinet over Refrigerator--What goes in there? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: buehl on 06.03.2011 at 01:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

Seasonal things, for the most part. In the winter, pitchers are stored in the back and my cookie canisters for Christmas cookies are stored in the front. In the spring/summer/fall, they're reversed.

Year-round, I also store vases & seldom-used water bottles in the back and in the very front napkin holders, hot pads for the table, and often-used water bottles.

The napkin holders (w/napkins) and hot pads are stored in it b/c the refrigerator is next to the DR and it's very easy to grab them when setting the table. One thing...we're a tall family. I'm the shortest at 5'10". So the front, at least, is easy for us to reach. I do have to get a chair for the very back, but it's only 3 or 4 times a year.

Tray storage...I understand your range has a bottom drawer. But, have you ever tried to store your cookie sheets, cooling racks, muffin tins, pizza pans, roasting pan (& accessories), etc. in vertical storage? It's so much easier to access them than in a bottom drawer under a range! We stored our cookie sheets and other flat items in that drawer location in our old kitchen and I'll never go back to that kind of tray storage! (Our pots & pans were all stored in the corner susan.)

Keep an open mind and think about might find something new that works better than what you've been doing. Yes, you're used to what you have...but be open to change (or at least to consider/try something new). I'm so glad I kitchen has so many "new" things and I love the vast majority of them! Not all things will necessarily work out, but at least give things a try. Photobucket

I did this over my ovens. You can do something similar over your refrigerator. (The bottom shelf holds platters & my griddle lengthwise front-to-back.)

Tray & Platter Storage, Cabinet Above the Ovens, 31


clipped on: 06.03.2011 at 05:43 pm    last updated on: 06.03.2011 at 05:43 pm

RE: Cabinet over Refrigerator--What goes in there? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: kompy on 06.03.2011 at 01:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is what I did in my last house. Loved it! I also did the 24" deep cabinet, but pulled forward.



clipped on: 06.03.2011 at 05:42 pm    last updated on: 06.03.2011 at 05:42 pm

Pictures of my new kitchen!

posted by: joan2121 on 03.22.2011 at 06:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

Finally some pictures and a chance to tell all of you at GW how grateful I am for all the help I got on this forum. It all started by looking at your pictures. And I became TKO! Since we were doing a complete remodel- removing walls and putting in all new windows and doors, I needed lots of help! We started in October and were up and running by the Holidays, but needed a few cabinet doors and misc stuff before I felt finished.
My husband did a lot of the work himself. The first biggy was the windows to the counter, bumped out - I never would have known about that.So many of you helped me decide on how to do that. Buehl even told us HOW to do it!! Nine feet of windows and no uppers on the sides of the sink?? DH thought I was crazy, but I was able to show him so many pictures that you guys posted.
I still need some decorating, and the backsplash (which you can see over the range) I am doing creme white subway with crackle.
I love the dining area table, but not too crazy about the chairs- We got it at High Point NC and the chairs came with it. What do you all think? Would 4 Windsor or Parson be better and just use the black arm chairs for the ends? The light over the table was in the house, and we just put it up until I get one. What kind do you think would look good?
Thank you!
I know how much your pictures meant to me when I was planning, so hope mine help some one else.

What's in my kitchen thanks to GW advice!
Never empty soap dispenser
Franke orca sink: Love the removable grid
Air switch
Lee Valley drawer dividers
Cabinets are Kraftmaid Garrison in Canvas: Love all pull outs, Blum motion, and drawers!
KA Dishwasher
KA CD refrigerator
GE Monogram range, hood and 240V Advantium
Granite is Giallo Ornamental
Paint color: BM Bennington Gray (looks green by the windows, it's more light the other side)


clipped on: 05.29.2011 at 11:58 am    last updated on: 05.29.2011 at 11:58 am

Please help with paint color!

posted by: megpie77 on 12.23.2009 at 10:04 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Hello and thank you in advance. It seems I never really get color just right. I know what I like but can't seem to ever really pull it all together.

I love pottery barn's style-clean, simple, classic. I love the shades of blues and grays that are used in there mags but I've learned lighting has everything to do with the effect.

I painted my downstairs BM Glass slipper. It is way too baby blue for our downstairs. It would be pretty in my bathroom or bedroom though. I am having a hard time picking the right gray/blue/green shade of paint. I love BM edgecomb gray, revere pewter, beach glass, just to name a few. I plan on getting the pearce sectional by pottery barn in oat but am not sure if this color will go with the grays/blues I like. In this site
it looks as though the revere pewter goes with the warm toned couch which has a similar (color) look to the PB sectional (below). What should I do? Any suggestions? is it taupy grays that go best with this couch color?
Thank you again!
bm gossomer blue (I love this color combo)
Our downstairs gets lots of western light. Does this mean warm light?

Here is a link that might be useful: revere pewter


Polished Limestone: Glidden Paint
clipped on: 04.09.2011 at 07:40 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2011 at 07:40 pm

Never thought I'd be back for paint help. Please? Pic heavy

posted by: megpie77 on 03.23.2011 at 03:27 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Hello all! I could sure use some help once and for all, for good, for years to come, till the cows come home. I don't want to paint any more! Well, at least when I am done painting...just as soon as I pick a color. I will try to make this quick:

I bought a sectional in khaki. I wanted "natural" (off white) but my mom recomended khaki and since she has such beautiful taste I thought she'd be right.

The paint that seemed to go great with the couch is BM camouflage. I thought it looked so pretty and unexpected. Half way through painting I wasn't loving it. It was too muddy at night. I gave it a chance since I was going from golden/yellow to grayish green. So...

I hired a designer. She encouraged me to keep it, though non of the inspirational pictures I sent her had green walls. No mam, I think they were all some sort of off white, cream, etc. She explained to me that once the room was pulled together (hanging pictures, putting a chair by the fireplace,) it would look great. The bottom line...

It's a pretty color but I would just rather have a pretty off white or cream as my backdrop. But...

It just aint that easy. You see, I love muted colors, not too warm, not peachy, not pastel, but I don't think the gray toned colors are working in my home. I've tried BM manchester tan-too gray and not enough creaminess. BM hush-a big possibility since our downstairs is painted Hush and my inspiration pics below feature this color. I painted a small section in Hush and it's not looking so good upstairs (the main space I'm talking about). It looks gray and fleshy. But can't I jazz it up? How do I find that deeper than cream but not quite a color color? I'm lost!!! Should I go more warm neutral and skip the whole "ever so popular greige"? I live in the Pacific Northwest and am questioning these lovely but difficult-in-my-home greige colors. I know that if I keep the khaki slipcover that is currently on our couch I should definately go warmer. However, I have a sewing machine and am determined to make a slipcover for this ginormous sectional. I can do almost anything, so long as I stay determined and stubborn.

Sorry for the long rant. Any suggestions are appreciated and thank you for your time!

My home
It's actually sunny today and hard to see the green tone in the pic!
Now can you see the green tone?
Hush in our downstairs family room. (excuse the unfinished room...we are not done!)
BM hush inspiration
other color inspiration


Hush paint
clipped on: 03.23.2011 at 06:27 pm    last updated on: 03.23.2011 at 06:27 pm

RE: Sneak Peek - my BM Wythe Blue Basement! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jockewing on 03.23.2011 at 12:47 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I love love love this color. I will use it somewhere in my house one day. I ended up using Quietude by SW in my bedroom in place of this. Quietude is almost exactly the same, but with just a smidge more gray.


Wythe Blue & Quietude
clipped on: 03.23.2011 at 06:24 pm    last updated on: 03.23.2011 at 06:24 pm

RE: cluttered chaos to clean and calm: finished! (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: carriea on 12.31.2010 at 10:54 am in Kitchens Forum

Wow, you are all so nice- I knew this group would pick out all of the details that I specifically scoured GW to iron out.
I probably should have given some background on the scope of the project when I posted the photos.
-- when we moved into the house a few years ago, although the kitchen wasn't terrible, it was an awful use of space. There was a tiny island out of proportion with a huge "dead zone" between the kitchen and the family room. I hated the fact the kitchen looked out right into the family room. After debating half walls or building a small wall in the middle of the two rooms which would have created two very small areas, we decided to flip the orientation and build the taller cap to the island to create a divider without closing off either room.

We also had an awkward triangular wall that led into the room. Instead of straightening out the walkway, we embraced it and put in a nook there for the phone, cookbooks etc. We also toyed with moving the door to our dining room to have a better work flow and decided it wasn't worth the expense.
BTW, for anyone out there contemplating marble, I used GW almost obsessively to gather data on etching staining, etc to help me make this decision and I am soo happy we decided to use it. LOVE it, etches and all.

But most importantly, I wanted a space where I could put a big table and build a banquette along the window wall so that my entire family could eat at the kitchen table and hang out there.

To answer some questions:

Window treatment fabric: Kravet Glass - 315 (done a few years ago)

Chandelier: I purchased a few years ago from

Pendants: Anthropologie -- although I just spotted them in the Ballard Home catalog cheaper argh!

Armoire cabinet: We used zinc in the leaded glass to pick up on the pendants and table top. My cabinet guy sourced that I will ask him for more details.

Hardware: Top Knobs-

Banquette specs: We built it around existing window, it is 20" deep by 123"
Fabric: Bella Dura cushion (indoor outdoor fabric)

Counter top: Bar overhang 12" (plenty of room) still need to paint our old bar stools to match cabinets!!

Sofas: Lee (can order through Crate and Barrel-- they have catalogs you can look through, typically not on floor of stores.) Fabric is Bimini (ordered a few years ago) If I could do it over, I would select smaller scale sofas, although I love the single cushion on the bottom, it is great for kids.

Paint: BM Silver Marlin. I have touted this before on this forum a great color. In person it reads more grey and looks fab with white dove.

Cabinets: Semi custom-- our main goal was to bring them to ceiling and add more storage space and are very happy with the result. Love all the drawers.

Floor: Red oak, we stained it when we moved in, it is darker than it appears in the photos. I think the stain was a walnut mix.

Fireplace: We redid the fireplace surround when we move in as well. It is Oceanside tile, and love it-- it's imperfections are its charm. When we redid the kitchen we lowered the mantel and took out some of the fussier trim off it.

We still would like to switch out the door knobs to the pantry and door to dining room with an antiqued nickel, paint the bar stools to match cabinets? Opinions here.. and perhaps swap out the table chairs.
Again thanks for all of your comments, seriously it wouldn't have turned out this way without the ideas I poached from this site.


clipped on: 03.17.2011 at 06:30 pm    last updated on: 03.17.2011 at 06:30 pm

cluttered chaos to clean and calm: finished!

posted by: carriea on 12.30.2010 at 05:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

I finally figured out how to post photos and wanted to share our finished kitchen. While I didn't post often, I lurked ALL the time and gleaned invaluable advice from this forum. Many thanks to the GW collective insights!

Cabinets maple painted white dove; end piece - cherry wood
Countertops: honed antiqued Carrara marble
Sink blanco
Faucet- hans grohe
Fridge - Kitchenaid
Ovens and cooktop Thermador
Microwave drawer - Sharp
Hood - Best
Backsplash - Ann Sacks
Paint - BM Silver Marlin

Here it is: I tried to arrange photos before and after...
















clipped on: 03.17.2011 at 06:28 pm    last updated on: 03.17.2011 at 06:29 pm

Some missing threads

posted by: buehl on 03.22.2010 at 12:50 am in Kitchens Forum

I was able to rescue the URLs for a few threads. HOWEVER, even if you post to them, they will not appear in the list. I tried to bump the current "Read Me" thread and it did not appear with the 5 now on the page. So, if you post to one of the rescued threads, know that others will be able to see it if they link to it but it won't appear on the thread list, at least not right now.

To use the URLs below, copy & paste the URL into the "Address" box of your browser.

I'm not sure if this will last long, but here are some of the missing threads:

  • Designer faucets -- are they better quality? -
    Posted by: sayde on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 20:55
  • How Long did your kitchen remodel take? -
    Posted by: sabjimata on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 18:16
  • Finished farm kitchen -
    Posted by: pinch_me on Thu, Mar 18, 10 at 21:57
  • opinion on granite choice needed please! -
    Posted by: heather720 on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 12:27
  • dark or light? -
    Posted by: lola77 on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 18:16
  • 99% Finished Cherry Kitchen (Before and After) -
    Posted by: 8 on Thu, Dec 10, 09 at 14:36
  • The Intimidation Issue -
    Posted by: warmfridge on Sat, Mar 20, 10 at 19:58
  • What do you love best about your kitchen -
    Posted by: danielle84 on Sat, Mar 20, 10 at 0:06
  • Granite yard/fabricators recs in NJ -
    Posted by: roxy2007 on Sat, Mar 20, 10 at 17:37
  • substitute for this walker zanger tile? -
    Posted by: november on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 10:41
  • Knobs vs Handles -
    Posted by: ladypie on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 0:30
  • granite fabrication questions..what do you think! -
    Posted by: rubyvine on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 19:29
  • Thoughts on choice of granite -
    Posted by: motleydog on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 15:39
  • hello! some first questions... -
    Posted by: thndersnow on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 17:16
  • Getting new counters after 25 years -
    Posted by: dee4nebraska on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 19:19
  • Honed granite reviews??? -
    Posted by: aswierk on Sat, Mar 20, 10 at 16:00
  • mystery granite--more photos, please help identify if you can -
    Posted by: chipongo on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 2:39
  • Granite is in! Please, please help now with backsplash -
    Posted by: tbosshar on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 10:46
  • Sealers modify color of granite??? -
    Posted by: danielle84 on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 12:04
  • Is it me that's nutty or is it my designer? -
    Posted by: lissbell on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 1:38
  • Good grief : sinks, pots and induction cooktops -
    Posted by: sochi on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 18:34
  • Island Granite in--White Quartz pics! -
    Posted by: firsthouse_mp on Sat, Mar 20, 10 at 1:50
  • 12'' or 14'' deep cabinets? 15'' -
    Posted by: sherriz on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 2:00
  • Would love some opinions on my kitchen plan -
    Posted by: periwinkle18 on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 15:42
  • kitchen faucets -
    Posted by: nimela on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 16:42
  • I love my sink!! -
    Posted by: plllog on Tue, Mar 16, 10 at 21:39
  • Recessed cans 12 or 18 inches from cabinets? -
    Posted by: tartan22 on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 10:09
  • Planning my Kitchen Renovation - Tile layout in North Vancouver -
    Posted by: johnfrwhipple on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 13:34
  • What light bulbs do you use for your island pendantsi -
    Posted by: joep_2009 on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 11:20


clipped on: 02.26.2011 at 08:20 pm    last updated on: 02.26.2011 at 08:21 pm

RE: Island preference (match cabinets or accent color) (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: hostagrams on 01.01.2010 at 11:47 am in Kitchens Forum

We have white perimeter cabinets and a charcoal island. The kitchen is large, and I thought we'd have snow-blindness if all the cabinets were white. Besides, I like the look. The island has a brushed granite top with some color in it; the perimeter top is Zodiaq Eclipse Blue, which in most lighting situations is really more grey than blue. Obviously, the backsplash and glass doors aren't in yet.

My contrasting kitchen isn't the only "potentially dated" thing we chose for this house, but I really don't care. Most of our choices were because we liked them; some were for financial reasons. I know most GWers would shudder at the fan over the island -- but it's perfect for me. My pretty pendants are over the sink. We're the ones living here, and we wanted to please us. Down the road, if things need to be changed, we'll deal with it. Some will be relatively easy to change -- like painting the island. Others, not so easy. So be it.

There have been many fascinating threads here about what will or won't be dated. My take on it is that unless you're doing an out-and-out "period" kitchen, many, if not most, things will eventually be dated. Again, so be it.

Look at a LOT of kitchen pictures . . . pull out the ones that draw you in, and see what the trend is. When we built in 2001, I never dreamed I'd want a white kitchen, but I realized most of the pictures that grabbed me had white cabinetry. I still loved it after 6 years, so when we built this house, I did it again.

For me, the bottom line is: "Please yourself."



Black Island, Granite Choice.
clipped on: 02.06.2011 at 09:06 am    last updated on: 02.06.2011 at 09:06 am

subway tile backsplash white or add color?

posted by: tearose21 on 05.20.2009 at 11:35 am in Kitchens Forum

I really thought I would have white (well a little creamy white to match cabinets) subway tile backsplash, but everyone is advising me to add some color. I have creamy white cabinets, calacatta marble counters and a walnut island top. PN hardware and pendants. Would either of these colors work. They are crackle and would be in 2x6. Also, I should mention I have a original to the house leaded glass butler's pantry that I would be painting some sort of color, probably in the grey family.Thanks, Trisha

Here is a link that might be useful:


Grothouse Wood Top
clipped on: 01.23.2011 at 07:54 am    last updated on: 01.23.2011 at 07:54 am

Finished! Modern, IKEA, quartz, Nexus Yellow-Brown, under $15K.

posted by: jakabedy on 04.17.2010 at 02:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are DONE! This was a 95% DIY effort and I'm excited to finally be able to share it with the GW kitchen board. I drew a lot of inspiration from the members here.

We had a 15K budget and actually came in a good bit under. We kept the same essential footprint and plumbing locations and kept the original paver flooring. The original pantries stayed in place and got a coat of paint (and the microwave moved into one of them). We built a new wall to create a fridge alcove and separate the range area for the backsplash feature. It was all DIY except for the countertops and the plumber. (Rest assured that the vintage Norge fridge found a great new home).

The before:

The after:

Ikea Nexus Yellow-Brown, "Spann" handles. ($2,600)
Zodiaq Papyrus ($4,380)
Kohler sink (32-1/4" x 17-3/4" x 9" deep) ($100 open box)
Price-Phister Mystique pull-out spray ($170)
Lunada Bay, sendai silk ($750)
Kitchen Aid Refrigerator ($1,386 Sears closing, floor model)
Kitchen Aid gas convection range ($1,492 Sears closing, floor model)
Bosch dishwasher ($450, Lowes repaired clearance)
Arietta Range Hood ($300)
In-sinkerator disposal with air switch. ($150)
Building Supplies ($1,500)
Plumber ($350)


Backsplash Lunada Bay Sendai Silk
clipped on: 01.23.2011 at 07:42 am    last updated on: 01.23.2011 at 07:42 am

RE: DIY copper countertop (Follow-Up #103)

posted by: circuspeanut on 07.19.2008 at 03:57 pm in Metalworking Forum

Well, we did it. It's a lot of work, but I can say that these countertops are gorgeous and well worth the time invested. And they cost me about $21/sf total, which is almost as pleasing as the knowledge that they are fairly green and can be repurposed by whomever comes after me.

1. Create the substrate out of mdf. We used fairly nice stuff made ostensibly from recycled fiber. We glued two 3/4" sheets together with construction cement, then screwed them tightly from the bottom (we wanted the top absolutely smooth so as not to have to use levelling compound. Later this became vital since the adhesive we used was fabulous for gluing copper to mdf, but not to anything else).
Clamped overnight. Then cut with table saw and dry-fit them to the cabs:

2. Then I flipped the pieces over and applied RedGard waterproofing membrane on the bottom and back -- everywhere we weren't gluing copper. Just in case, since it is a kitchen. It's awful gloppy stuff that you roll on like liquid plastic and dries bright red:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

3. Next we took 1/4" by 1.5" copper barstock and mitered it just like wood to fit the edges. It cut just fine on an old compound miter saw with a high-tech metal-cutting blade by Tenryu. Glued it to the mdf using TC-50 adhesive by Better Bond, clamped it well:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

4. I was highly impressed by the TC-20 adhesive: no VOC and it set enough to handle lightly in about 15 minutes. We kept the edging clamped for a few hours just in case. All edged, a counter piece looked like this:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

5. Cut the top copper sheet with a metal blade on the jigsaw. Dry fit it with about 1/4" to 1/2" to spare. We used 20oz Revere copper sheet from a local building materials supplier. It comes in 3foot and 4foot widths up to 120" long.
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

6. Glued that sucker on! Nerve-wracking, but in retrospect the easiest part of the entire job. We fit as many factory-cut edges to the countertop edges as was feasible, then J-rolled the whole schmear and clamped it but good on all sides, using extra mdf scraps as buffers so as not to dent the copper with clamps:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

7. Used a router to trim all the necessary edges to just barely overlapping the edging, if at all. No pics, sorry. As aliceinwonderland can attest, do this outside in the driveway or garage if at all possible!!

8. Then we sanded it up using 180 grit. The copper is almost shockingly workable -- you can put whatever pattern you'd like into it with the sander, a hammer, whatever. [I'd suggest waiting to do this until after you've glued the smooth sheets first, for optimal adhesion.] I worked my way up to about 600grit mesh on the orbital sander, just to make it nice and smooth.

9. I'm glad we decided to do the edging first, since this put the main seam on the side rather than top, and it's virtually invisible from just a little distance away:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

10. I was still concerned about durability and the seam opening up, so I went back and stuffed some Just For Copper epoxy onto/into it. Sanded it back down so the seam is very tiny and smooth, and I feel better knowing that it's probably bombproof. It's obvious that the seam will pretty much vanish as the copper oxidizes, too.
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

11. Due to an L-shape, we did have one place where we absolutely had to join two sheets on top. We used the factory-cut edges for these, and then I epoxied atop the line with Just For Copper and sanded it well. Over time, the line will hopefully become less noticeable as well, though it doesn't look bad (honestly, the photos make it look much worse than it is):
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Ta dah!
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

So that's that! Feel free to contact me with any questions, but better yet post them here for everyone to benefit -- this thread was my sole inspiration and guidance during the process.
Cheers and my heartfelt thanks to jenathegreat, aliceinwonderland, and all of you for the inspiration.


clipped on: 01.17.2011 at 01:38 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2011 at 01:42 pm

Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

posted by: buehl on 04.14.2008 at 02:56 am in Kitchens Forum

First off, I want to give a big thank-you to StoneGirl, Kevin, Joshua, Mimi, and others (past and current) on this forum who have given us many words of wisdom concerning stone countertops.

I've tried to compile everything I saved over the past 8 months that I've been on this Forum. Most of it was taken from a write-up by StoneGirl (Natural stone primer/granite 101); other threads and sources were used as well.

So...if the experts could review the information I've compiled below and send me comments (here or via email), I will talk to StarPooh about getting this on the FAQ.

Stone Information, Advice, and Checklists:

In an industry that has no set standards, there are many unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. There are also a number of people with odd agendas trying to spread ill rumors about natural stone and propagate some very confusing and contradictory information. This is my small attempt at shedding a little light on the subject.

Slab Selection:

On the selection of the actual stone slabs - When you go to the slab yard to choose slabs for your kitchen, there are a few things you need to take note of:

  • Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued, or brushed, should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches, or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man-made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab when looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab.

    Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process.

  • Mesh backing: Some slabs have a mesh backing. This was done at the plant where the slabs were finished. This backing adds support to brittle materials or materials with excessive veining or fissures. A number of exotic stones will have this. This does not necessarily make the material one of inferior quality, though. Quite often, these slabs will require special care in fabrication and transport, so be prepared for the fabricator to charge accordingly. If you are unsure about the slabs, ask your fabricator what his opinion of the material is.
  • Cracks and fissures: Yes - some slabs might have them. One could have quite the discussion on whether that line on the slab could be one or the other, so I'll try to explain it a little.

    • Fissures are naturally occurring features in stone. They will appear as little lines in the surface of the slabs (very visible in a material like Verde Peacock) and could even be of a different color than the majority of the stone (think of those crazed white lines sometimes appearing in Antique Brown). Sometimes they could be fused like in Antique Brown and other times they could be open, as is the case in the Verde Peacock example. They could often also go right through the body of the slab like in Crema Marfil, for instance. If you look at the light reflection across a fissure, you will never see a break - i.e., there will be no change in the plane on either side of a fissure.
    • A crack on the other hand is a problem... If you look at the slab at an oblique angle in the light, you will note the reflection of the shine on the surface of the stone. A crack will appear as a definite line through the reflection and the reflection will have a different appearance on either side of the line - there will be a break in the plane. Reject slabs like this. One could still work around fissures. Cracks are a whole other can of worms.
    • Resined slabs: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. You should not be able to see just by looking at the surface of a slab whether it was resined or not. If you look at the rough sides of the slab, though, you will see some drippy shiny marks, almost like varnish drips. This should be the only indication that the slab is resined. There should never be a film or layer on the face of the stone. With extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer.
    • Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed do not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but it is still resined to eliminate a flaking issue.

Tests (especially for Absolute Black) (using a sample of YOUR slab):

  • To verify you have true AB and not dyed: Clean with denatured alcohol and rub marble polishing powder on the face. (Get denatured alcohol at Home Depot in the paint department)
  • Lemon Juice or better yet some Muratic Acid: will quickly show if the stone has alot of calcium content and will end up getting etched. This is usually chinese stone, not indian.
  • Acetone: The Dying usually is done on the same chinese stone. like the others said, acetone on a rag will reveal any dye that has been applied
  • Chips: Using something very hard & metalhit the granite sharply & hard on edges to see if it chips, breaks, or cracks


  • Before the templaters get there...
    • Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.
    • Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.
    • Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in.
    • Check how close they should come to a stove and make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter.
    • Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.
    • Make sure have your garbage disposal air switch on hand or know the diameter

  • If you are not putting in a backsplash, tell them
  • Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.
  • Seam Placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

    Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality, and their placementand still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!

  • Factors determining seam placement:
    • The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)
    • Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available
    • Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will influence seam placement here alone.
    • Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some do not. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.
    • Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -
    • Install-ability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again, 1,001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

    You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

    With modern glues and seaming methods, a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam is done well, there is - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

    Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.

  • Generally, it is not a good idea to seam over a DW because there's no support for the granite, and anything heavy placed at or near the seam would stress the stone, possibly breaking it.
  • Rodding is another issue where a tremendous amount of mis-information and scary stories exist: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece
  • Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e., eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.
    Edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world. Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.


  • Seams:
    One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum [StoneGirl]

    • A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:
      • It should be flat. According to the Marble Institute of America (MIA) a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.
      • It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)
      • The color on either side of the seam should match as closely as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.
      • Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases, the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.
      • The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge, you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.
      • The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)
      • The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as closely as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try to make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it

  • Checklist:
    • Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.
      • Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.
      • Make sure that the seams are not obvious.
      • Make sure the seams are butted tight
      • Make sure that there are no scratches, pits, or cracks

    • If sealing is necessary (not all granites need to be sealed):
      • Make sure that the granite has been sealed
      • If more than one application of sealer was applied, ask how long they waited between applications
      • Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.

    • Make sure the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
    • Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.
    • Check for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges
    • Check for chips. These can be filled.
    • Make sure the top drawers open & close
    • Make sure that you can open & close your dishwasher
    • Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter
    • Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances
    • Check the edge all around, a good edge should have the following characteristics:
      • Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull, or waxy.
      • The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.
      • The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.
      • A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.
      • A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly, and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanical fabrication (i.e., CNC machines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.

    • Run your hands around the entire laminated edge of yor counters to make sure they are smooth
    • Check surrounding walls & cabinets for damage

Miscellaneous Information:

  • More than all the above and below, though, is to be present for both the templating as well as having the templates placed on your slabs at the fabricator's
    If you canot be there, then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam
  • Find a fabricator who is a member of the SFA
  • When they polish your stone for you don't let them wax it. It will look terrible in 2 months when the wax wears off.
  • Don't use the Magic Eraser on granite--especially AB
  • Any slab with more fill (resin) than stone is certainly a no-no!!
  • When you do check for scratches, have overhead lighting shining down so scratches are easier to see
  • Don't let them do cutouts in place (granite dust becomes a major issue)
  • Granite dust can be a problem...some have heard of SS appliances & hoods damaged by the dust, others have heard of drawer glides being ruined by the dust
  • If you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process.
  • Suggested Prep for Installation:
    • Remove any drawers and pullouts beneath any sections that will be cut or drilled onsite, e.g., sink cutouts and/or faucet, soap dispenser, air gap, instant hot etc. holes, cooktop cutouts.
    • Then just cover the glides themselves with a few layers of blue painter's tape (or some combo of plastic wrap and tape)
    • If you make sure to cover the top of the glides and attach some of the tape to the cab wall as well (to form sort of a seal)and cover the rest of the glides completely with tape, you should be fine.
    • Usually the fabricators will have someone holding a vacuum hose right at the spot where they are drilling or cutting, so very little granite dust should be landing on the glides. What little dust escapes the vacuum will be blocked by the layer(s) of tape.
    • When done w/installation, remove the tape and use a DustBuster (or similar) on all the cabinets and glides

  • Countertop Support:
    • If your granite is 2 cm thick, then there can be no more then 6" of of unsupported span with a 5/8" subtop
    • If your granite is 3 cm thick, then there can be no more then 10" of unsupported span - no subtop required
    • If you need support, the to determine your corbel dimensions:
    • Thickness of Stone - Dimension of Unsupported Span = Corbel Dimensino
    • i.e., an 18" total overhang in 2 cm would require a 12" corbe; the same overhang in 3 cm would require an 8" corbel


clipped on: 01.17.2011 at 11:55 am    last updated on: 01.17.2011 at 11:55 am

Doing a little happy dance!!

posted by: swhite10 on 01.14.2011 at 07:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Two weeks from tonight, we should be moving in. We get back from a cruise that day and will pick up a moving van on the way home from the airport. Here are some pics of my kitchen. I cannot be any happier with how it has turned out! Missing a few things like pendants, the fridge, and hardware but that should all fall into place the week after next. Floor guys start tomorrow and are working 7 days straight to sand a finish the floors. We cannot wait to live in this house!!




cream cabinets, black island
clipped on: 01.15.2011 at 09:12 am    last updated on: 01.15.2011 at 09:13 am

RE: end panels - please show pics (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: boxerpups on 01.13.2011 at 06:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are a few end panel ideas but I am not sure if they
will help you. At least you can think about them and
plan your own kitchen.






clipped on: 01.13.2011 at 08:10 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2011 at 08:11 pm

RE: After Market Cabinet Organizers? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: bob_cville on 01.13.2011 at 11:12 am in Kitchens Forum


For my Lee Valley custom dividers (shown below) I attached the dividers directly into the wood of the drawer side, others here have made a box-within-a-box configuration that would allow the entire unit to be removed. Although with my setup you still can easily remove all of the divider boards one-by-one for cleaning the drawer. You just have to be sure which board came from where, so that you can put it back together.


If the 1/4" aspen is anything like the aspen that my local Lowes carries, it is a very soft, very weak, almost crumbly wood, and I don't think the Lee Valley inserts would hold in it well. I used 1/4" poplar wood from my local Lowes and got good results. Aspen is wood from one of several species of poplar trees. Poplar is wood from the Tulip Poplar, which is not a poplar. :-) Clear?


clipped on: 01.13.2011 at 08:08 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2011 at 08:09 pm

RE: Granite contractor issue (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: boxerpups on 12.31.2010 at 07:33 am in Kitchens Forum


Wise of you to question it. I think you need another
installer. I am all about trust when I work with people.
My counters were templated up to each nook and cranny
around my kitchen walls. Homes are not always designed or
maintained perfectly square. What is this installer
thinking? I agree a cheap way to put in granite is cut it
all square and make the homeowner try to fix it.

Perhaps this installer does not realize you are more
educated and savvy about what you expect. I personally
would not go with them. If you have doubts before you
hand them money imagine what it will be after.

An installer is far more valuable than any piece of granite.
I searched high and low until I found someone who could
make the slab of stone into a beautiful designed counter.

If you list which part of the country you are in there
are GWebbers who can tell you who they used. Here is
a link to New England installers.

Again Kudos to you for questioning and expecting better!

How do you choose a granite installer gardenweb

StaceyNeil's Driving to Massachusetts to look for granite

Bad Bad Counter seam GW

Here is a link that might be useful: How to judge the reputability of countertop installers?


Terms used in granite installation
clipped on: 01.10.2011 at 08:34 pm    last updated on: 01.10.2011 at 08:35 pm

RE: pictures of warm white cabinets with lighter granite (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 02.15.2010 at 01:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

My cabinets are painted BM Cloud White, and the darker ones are stained "peppercorn". My granite is Bianco Antico, and although it has lots of brown, gray, taupe in it, it reads "light".

Keep in mind that you will get to a point where you have to decide about your backsplash. I had this vision way back when that I wanted a chocolate colored backsplash, but I learned that it would really look like a tunnel, since I had the light cabinets and counter. I'm pretty sure we are going with a matte white 2x8 tile for that. Currently, my backsplash area is painted.

Here are recent "not completed yet" pictures. btw, today marks 9 months since demo began. Yep, we have just crossed over that dreaded "I could have made a human faster" mark.




clipped on: 01.06.2011 at 08:45 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2011 at 08:45 pm

RE: All drawer kitchens - please post photos (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: elizpiz on 05.01.2010 at 06:35 am in Kitchens Forum

Plum, I have no uppers - only drawers. LOVE THEM. Can't really comment on storage, as the whole darn kitchen is much bigger now, but I can say that I have more than enough room. Also love our blumotion. No regrets here!

Bird's eye view

Sochi, just LOVING your kitchen - WOW!



clipped on: 01.06.2011 at 08:40 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2011 at 08:40 pm

RE: ''It Doesn't Have to Wash Dishes as Long as It's Quiet'' (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: monicakm on 05.03.2010 at 11:25 pm in Appliances Forum

I love my cutlery rack on my KA KUDE60 dw. It opened up so much room on the bottom rack. That's gonna cost you and the quieter, the more expensive. With American brands, you have the option of using heated dry. I choose not to use the heated dry for energy savings. A dw with a food disposal will be noisier. My KA is larger and (imo) laid out better to hold more than Bosch. Bosch wouldn't accommodate my larger items. I'm super impressed with this machine! I paid just over $1000 before taxes and the 4 yr extended warranty. Well worth it!


clipped on: 01.06.2011 at 08:31 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2011 at 08:31 pm

RE: Finished Kitchen creamy white, lacanche, calacatta (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: tearose21 on 07.13.2009 at 08:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sorry, I did post details on my failed first attempt at posting pictures. Yes, it is an older house, 1920's Tudor. Thanks for all the nice words. And thanks to all who chimed in with help.

Cabinets: Crown Point - Paper and Black Walnut Polished Nickel Hardware
Counters - Calacatta Marble
Island - Black Walnut from Grothouse Lumber with a durata finish (satin)
Pendants - Hudson Valley 8" Polished Nickel
Backsplash- Ann Sacks 2x2 onyx and 3X6 crackle subway tile
Range - Lancanche Cluny
Original leaded glass butler's pantry
Floor - QS white oak
wall color - SW Repose
Butler's Pantry color - BM Edgecomb gray
Sinks - Shaw farmhouse and round prep sink
Main Faucet - Newport Brass in Polished Nickel
Soap Dispenser- rohl polished nickel



Wood Countertop
clipped on: 01.05.2011 at 05:43 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2011 at 05:43 pm

Finished Kitchen creamy white, lacanche, calacatta

posted by: tearose21 on 07.13.2009 at 07:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Posted earlier but pictures were too small. Hope this works.



clipped on: 01.05.2011 at 05:41 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2011 at 05:41 pm

Finished Kitchen: Circa 1840 Working Farmhouse, IKEA Budget Reno

posted by: brickmanhouse on 08.19.2010 at 01:46 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi all,

Well, we've finally got a (mostly) finished kitchen! This kitchen's been in the planning stages for 8 years and I've been in and out of this forum for just about that long-- wow, time flies! Whether I've posted or just lurked, the information I've gotten here has been INVALUABLE.

I can unequivocally say that my kitchen would not look anything like what it does without this Forum, and for that I offer my profound gratitude-- there is, quite literally, no way I could have done it without all of you, past and present.

So, here are the photos of the finished result:

From 2010-0818

From 2010-0818

From 2010-0818

From 2010-0818

From 2010-0818

From 2010-0818

From 2010-0818

For the entire album with detailed photos, just click on the link below any of the photos above!

Here are the details:

Cabinetry: IKEA Lidingo White (with glass uppers) for the perimeter, Tidaholm Brown/Black for the island
Island Knobs & Pulls: Anne at Home Farm Collection and Lewis Dolin Glass Cup Pulls (from
Perimeter Knobs and Pulls: Anne at Home Horse Collection, generic polished chrome knobs, cup pulls, and bar pulls (from
Wall Paint: BM Revere Pewter
Trim, Hood, and Fireplace Paint: Valspar Bright White (from Lowes)
Perimeter Counters: IKEA Butcher Block, stained Black with India Ink and sealed with Waterlox
Island Counter: IKEA Butcher Block, sealed with Watco food safe butcher block sealer
Main Sink: Whitehaus 36" farm sink (from
Island Sink: IKEA single Domsjo, undermounted instead of the usual overmount installation
Faucets: IKEA Hjuvik
Refrigerator: Because we grow a lot of what we eat (so we don't need to store much) and have a large fridge in an adjacent laundry room, we chose a generic small undercounter fridge (Home Depot, off the shelf)
Wine chiller: Sunbeam (Home Depot, off the shelf)
Dishwashers: Kenmore and Hotpoint, both existing and 5-7 years old
Microwaves: 8 year old Kenmores
Island Oven: IKEA Datid 30"
Hood: ProLine 36" range hood (from eBay)
Range: IKEA Praktfull Pro A50
Backsplash Behind Range: Handthrown Williamsburg brick (local brickyard, left over from another project)
Flooring: Lumber Liquidators, Hand Scraped Teak
Island and Sink Pendants: IKEA Ottava
Cabinet lights: IKEA Grundtal single puck lights
Chandelier over the Table: Progress lighting, black 5-light chandelier (Home Depot, off the shelf)
Fireplace: Style Selections 36" Vent Free LP fireplace (Lowes, off the shelf)

A few notes about the remodel, just to hit some discussion points I see come up a lot in this Forum:

Our kitchen lives in a big old 1840 farmhouse, which has been part of a working farm since the day it was built. Originally it was soybeans, but now it's part of a gentleman's farm (horses, heritage gardens and poultry), so everything has to be hard wearing and practical. It needs to stand up to heavy traffic, mud, hay, tools, and the occasional chicken (though usually when they wander in, they don't go much further than the family room, because they like the television). That definitely informed our choices for surfaces-- they needed to be hard cleanable, and ultimately easily refinished or replaced down the line.

Because the entire house already has strong architectural elements (huge moldings and built-ins), we worked within the style we already had-- all the kitchen moldings, mantels, panels and cabinets match (or are closely styled after) what already exists in the house. We definitely didn't do a period kitchen (we wanted a 2010 layout with all the conveniences), but we wanted the kitchen to look like it belonged in the house.

The big thing for us was budget-- believe it or not, the entire kitchen was done for UNDER $20K. Four big things contributed to that:

1/ We DIY'ed the ENTIRE project, start to finish. The only thing we hired out was the gas line install for the fireplace and range, because state law requires it. Other than that, all planning, demo, sourcing, and construction was on us. Might be why it took us 8 years. . .

2/ We reused what we could, and scrounged a lot, especially construction materials (which could have been buckets of money, considering all the custom work we did in the space), and kept what appliances we could. It was also a great way to be environmentally responsible on a project that, let's face it, has a lot of non-necessities involved.

3/ IKEA, IKEA, IKEA. If you're anywhere reasonably close to an IKEA, and you're on anything approaching a budget, go check it out. The cabinet quality for the price can't be beat (except for a few pockets of custom cabinet makers), and there are a lot of great accessories, appliances, lighting and other things to be had for a terrific price. As always, you have to pick and choose your items for quality and value, but at least in our experience, it is definitely there to be had for the buyer with a good eye.

4/ We didn't go for major appliance upgrades. Our whole family LOVES to cook (and eat!), and we wanted a great looking, functional space to do it all in, but we just weren't convinced that we needed more than the basics right now. If we want to upgrade down the line, it's easy enough to do, but right now our Wolf budget is standing in our barn eating hay, and our LaCanche budget is steered towards this Show Hunter prospect I have my eye on . . .

So there's our formula for a great kitchen that works for us considering the (kind of odd!) parameters we had. Hope you all can take at least something useful away from our experience.

I've submitted the kitchen to the FKB, and I'll answer whatever questions you've got. . .

Thanks again, everyone!


clipped on: 01.05.2011 at 01:50 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2011 at 01:51 pm

Finished! White (with blue island), soapstone, etc. (pic heavy)

posted by: mfhoop on 12.08.2010 at 08:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

We've taken some time off from reading this forum (new baby came 4 weeks after we were substantially complete on the kitchen!), but we just got back the photos that our contractor's professional photographer took, so we thought we'd do the final unveil.

When we moved into this house 17 months ago, we knew we'd need to update the kitchen. It was the size of a postage stamp and cut off from the rest of the house. See original floor plan here:

Existing Floorplan

We really wanted a kitchen that would be open to our family room, would have eat-in space not separated by a brick wall, and - of course - more space. So we decided to take out the wall between the original kitchen and dining room, move the dining room to what used to be a formal living room that we never used, and taking out the wall between the old kitchen/dining rooms and a breezeway type area that was mostly wasted space.

After discussions with several design/build firms and countless hours of looking at floor plans posted to this site (thank you, those who gave us valuable input!), we pretty much designed the floor plan ourselves and then found a contractor who was willing to do it. We did have to convince him that we really did want this design. He wanted us to have a U-shaped kitchen with a peninsula instead of the island, but we really wanted the circular flow plan and felt strongly that we wanted 2 separate cabinet runs that make a disconnected "L" so we didn't have any corner cabinets. (With his design we would have had 2 corners on an 11-foot wall). What we ended up with was mostly like this:

Changes to this design included moving the warming drawer to the island, putting the icemaker to the right of the prep sink, and shrinking down the island a bit. We also moved things around within the mudroom. Generally speaking, this is substantially what we ended up with.

This was no small construction feat - we took out 2 walls, including one load-bearing wall to combine 2 rooms and an old breezeway into a single kitchen and then added a mudroom. From the first sledgehammer to the final nail, it took about 16 weeks. There were a few in the middle when we thought that the baby would come first but they got it done on time and for that we are super grateful!

For those who want to know what is what:
Cabinets - CWP (we originally wanted Crownpoint, but decided we wanted something made closer to where we live - VA - and less expensive). So far we've been pleased though the wainscot still needs to be touched up. We're glad we did the blue island with the white surrounding cabinets. It gives the room some personality, looks great with the soapstone and matches my Polish pottery!
Counters and sinks - soapstone from Buck's County. Love it.
Rangetop, hood and ovens - Wolf
Fridge - 48" Subzero
Warming drawer - Miele - we still don't really use this...
Dishwasher - Miele
Microwave - GE spacesaver. We went through a lot of angst with our contractor on the placement of this. We had this location in a prior kitchen and really liked it but he never did. We still like it!
Wine fridge - U-line
Ice Maker - SZ (found used on Craigslist!)
Backsplash - carrara marble (we originally wanted plain white but hired a designer for a few hours of input and he recommended this - we really like how it ties together the grey in the soapstone and the white in the cabinets)
Knobs and pulls- RH
Latches - can't remember, but found them from the Christopher Peacock look-alike kitchen blog
Faucets - KWC except for the filter/insta-hot which is Waterstone (I thought I would love the pull down one but I actually like the pull-out one at our cleanup sink more)
Pendants - Hudson Valley
Floors - White oak in kitchen, soapstone in mudroom. We had 3 different materials in the 3 rooms that were combined to make this (cork, wood, and slate) and had a hard time deciding what we wanted to have. In the end, we went with wood and stained it to match the adjacent dining room.

The pictures:

The old:
Kitchen 3

The new:

To orient yourself, the pantry to the left of the fridge is in the same location that our old fridge was!






clipped on: 01.04.2011 at 07:38 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2011 at 07:38 pm

RE: mantle above range (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: clergychick on 12.22.2010 at 02:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

We had hoped to use a mantle from the old farmhouse my grandfather grew up in, but it's condition was worse than we expected, so we had our contractor build a replica of sorts.

Here's the old one:
Inspiration mantle

Here's the new:


When we ordered the cabinets we made a plan for the pieces we would need for the mantle -- columns, panels, beaded trim, corbels, etc. -- so all the materials are the same as the cabinets.

I confess I don't know much about the venthood that is inside it: the contractor selected what he thought we needed based on our cooktop and what would work in the mantle.

FWIW -- Amy


clipped on: 01.04.2011 at 07:22 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2011 at 07:22 pm

Woo Hoo! Finished kitchen pics!!!

posted by: hermajesty on 11.11.2010 at 08:00 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm another long time lurker. We started our remodel in August and I'm THRILLED to finally have a working kitchen again. Our kitchen was stuck in the 70's, so it was a total gut!

Some electrical yet to be finished. Over/under cabinet lighting will be installed this weekend, new woodwork has also been ordered. I'm working on backsplash ideas now, but couldn't wait to post some pics.

I can't thank EVERONE in this forum enough for your generous sharing of pictures and expertise. I've learned sooooo much. And there were many days when it was just reassuring to know OTHERS were going through the same MESS that we were.

A few details:

KraftMaid Marquette Maple cabinets Canvas with cocoa glaze
Bianco Antico granite - love, love, love it!
Marazzi glazed porcelain tile - Campione in Armstrong
Blanco Silgranit sink in Biscuit
Moen Vestige faucet in ORB
BM Cabot Trail walls














clipped on: 01.04.2011 at 03:43 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2011 at 03:44 pm

My idea post (lots of PIP)

posted by: craftlady07 on 12.01.2010 at 10:28 am in Kitchens Forum

I thought this might be helpful to others and at the same time it'll be nice to have all of my ideas/decisions in one place. Feel free to comment or offer any suggestions/recommendations, or just enjoy :)

Here's the layout (pretty much non negotiable at this point.) I know I don't have a lot of drawers in the base cabients even though that seems to be the #1 recommendation here. We wanted doors, sorry. Also, the open area to the right of this picture is where the kitchen table goes. the ceiling height in the main kitchen is 9' and the ceiling height over the table area is 8'. (we tore down a load bearing wall, the kitchen table area was an enclosed sun porch with walls of windows. Now it's all one big open room :)

We're getting beaded inset cabinets, maple wood with a cinnamon stain through a local cabinet maker. this is a picture from their showroom. It's not quite this red in real life
Corner Cabinet, Cinamon stain

We're getting these appliances
GE dishwasher GLDT696TSS (Sears)

Samsung Refrigerator - RF266AEPN/XAA (Best Buy)

Samsung OTR microwave (400cfm) SMH9187ST (Best Buy)

Kenmore Gas range 72903 (Sears)

We're getting a Shaw Rohl apron/farmhouse sink

with this Delta Linden pull out single lever faucet #4353-RB-DST

I've always wanted this style chandelier with shades

I really wanted this light for over the sink, but it's no longer available :( So now I'm on the hunt for something like this that isn't the run of the mill frosted bell shade. I'm leaning towards seeded glass, but we'll see what I come up with. I have time.

If I left out an pertinant information, just ask :) Thanks!


clipped on: 01.04.2011 at 03:39 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2011 at 03:39 pm