You need something that lifts the pot off wherever it is sitting, won't leave rust marks, is easy to move around, and doesn't detract from your pots.

Have fun. With pots you can pick your "hosta of the day/week" and feature it right where you get to gaze upon it with your mouth hanging open, wondering how could a leaf be so incredible beautiful.

I'm sure you will enjoy being a Pothead.

-Babka

I think this plant would quickly go to green if it weren't in some sun. Your southern sun would be a lot different than mine but it will need at least some if it's going to keep the varigation until the end of the season.

Your hostas just came out of a cooler/cold storage and are not quite ready to grow. In a few days they will start to wake up, but until then they really don't need water. Dormant hostas store what moisture they need and can only hold so much. When they don't have leaves they have absolutely no way to get rid of excess water, but the roots will keep trying to soak it up until cell damage starts to occur, if you soak too long.

If they are shrivelled up and dried out then yes, soak them for a little while (30 minutes to an hour is usually plenty) but if they are plump roots just plant them, water good to let them know it is time to wake up, then wait for them to emerge. If you get regular rains that is enough water in the meantime.

As to the crown depth, hostas grow from underground rhizomes and new root growth emerges from above the old, so the roots should always be underground. If your soil is well aerated (loose and light - not compacted) then ideally the dormant eyes should also never be showing after planting. If it is really hard and compact you should improve the soil, but if you can't, then just plant about a half inch below the surface, so at least the roots are covered with soil. The rot problems people have with plants that are too deep is not really a depth issue but a lack of oxygen issue. Keep your soil well aerated and they will happily grow below ground.

Good luck!

Chris

I create a folder directly on my external hard drive with the name of the hosta, then I add two subfolders under it. One for Photos and the other for Data File.

Hehe . . . it goes on . . . under the subfolder Photos I then break it down by year . . . then under year I break it down by month . . . and then you finally are able to see thumbnails of actual picture files.

Each picture file has three components in the name . . . where I acquired it from, date photo was taken, and the name of the hosta in the photo.

To counteract this madness . . . I also keep a separate file folder with ALL pictures regardless of what they are . . . the only organization this folder gets is a subfolder for the year . . . I don't mix years.

One folder serves to act as a catch all . . . the others as more of a database . . . I am not savvy with Microsoft Access so I cannot create a proper database like I would prefer.

But my home grown method works for me . . . I certainly don't expect it to work for anyone else. This is the great thing about all the resources we have nowadays. There are a million different ways to reach the same goal. :)

Ludi

P.S. Make sure to post when Miss Elegans wakes up . . . I know your southern bells should be stirring soon, if not already.

Tips: use a lot of slow cookers to keep food hot, and get them going early (warm water in them until their contents show up with a guest). Put hot food in them unless you have a couple of hours for them to heat the food. Use big coffee carafes (the ones that look like white ceramic but are really plastic thermos containers) to hold gravy at the table. Hot gravy will rewarm the food. If cooking a turkey or ham, use a counter-top roaster and save the oven for side dishes and rolls. Every time you open that door, it slows down the big meat dish and it will never get done! Say yes to anybody who wants to load the dishwasher and get a load done before desert. Don't let dogs lick the foil roasting pan full of drippings - pancreatitis is bad for all involved.

Have someone bring a lot of disposable gladware and send a lot of leftovers home. (My sister would start saving coupons for this months in advance.) You can take that job, as others clear the table. You can sit at the table and ask Aunt Sue if she wants green bean casserole and creamed corn with her roast, put her containers in a bag and have someone run it out to her car. That way, the food is OUT OF YOUR WAY before the company has left. It keeps kids busy running things out to cars, and nobody can forget their goodies. It will be colder there than on your counters.

Put leftovers you are keeping in meal-sized containers and freeze them if there is too much for the next day or two. Ditch bones and carcasses unless you have a proven track record of actually making the soup that you SAY you are going to make with them. Or send carcasses home with a person with a proven soup track record. Make a lunch date at their house for next week!

bkay

I see no need for expensive tests, especially HVX tests which only tell you that the plant has or has not been infected with HVX. It leaves the question of virus infection unanswered or even if it is a virus. A $50 lab test will give you an answer; but the answer should be determinable (word?) with observation and, in the case of nematodes inexpensive testing.

"Anthracnose can be diagonosed with brown spots / streaks and cancor like spots. This can be treated with a fungicide.

Nematodes can be detected by tearing a leaf and placing it in a clear glass dish for 10 minutes to 1/2 hours. Backlighting the dish will show nematodes, if they are there. The treatment is to either remove the infected plant and all others within 6 feet...or wait until February and dig up the roots and place them in 130 degree tap water in the kitchen sink for 10 minutes and pot the plant up and replant in August. Nematodes do not live in soil so no problem putting anything back in the same spot. Another alterantive is to do a lot of spraying to kill them, but it will take a long time and a lot of diligence as spraying will not kill the eggs. Or some people just live with them. I think I would go with the continuous spraying first and "cooking" if that wasn't effective. "Living with them" is not appealing to me.

Failing the observations / tests for Anthracnose and nematodes you probably have a virus. Spray (the entire area) with insecticide to prevent spread of non-HVX viruses which can be transmitted by insects. Viruses are all terminal and the best thing to do next is paint the hosta leaves with glyphosate to kill the tissue (hosta) which is necessary for virus survival. I would wait until Spring to remove the hosta as it may take a month or more for the roots to die completely. Instinctively digging the infected plant out while it is alive is the very worst approach. It can immediately spread the virus or any remenants of the root or crown in the soil can and will spread the disease to any plant that has a cut or torn leaf or root.

In the Spring, dig out the remains of the dead, virus sterile roots and plant more hostas or something else."

Jon

Southern Blight or Sclerotium Rolfsii is a group of related soil borne organisms which are a bit more specific leading to something similar to crown rot. Southern Blight ususally appears in summer when temperatures reach high 80's or above. It also seems to appear after rains and high temperatures. Treatment is 10% household bleach or 1% by volume as a drench of the plant and soil. Since it is soil borne it will move down a slope and reappear next year in the general area so treating the whole area is proper.

In thinking about this thread, I recalled a little known fact from earlier (pre-tissue culture propagation) days. Those days when most cultivars were hand-divided, not tc.

Back in the early 1980's when we needed plantaginea divisions for my mother's nursery sales, we would often ask those people we could if they would sell their mature blooming plantaginea clumps for $$.

As gardening friends and a way to make some money to buy some new hosta cultivars from Michigan's Hosta Lady Pauline Banyai!

Often they would have an old bed (very overgrown) or a long row which had "been there years".

Something like $0.25 -0.50 per division; old mature clumps would be purchased for $4-5 and we would then dig and divide, line out in the garden for a year before potting up for sale.

I am remembering HOW MANY of those clumps were growing in solid clay - which was a bummer to dig and transport and then to wash off the roots to divide carefully.

Now I wonder: did they bloom heavy because they were socked in moist Michigan clay or did they grow well into the clay because they grow slow and the clay kept the plants growing during high summer heat and drought!

I also recall very wet clay when digging those clumps, but remember these were all old clumps. Obviously they liked their soil moisture levels high!

Bruce

one of the first ever collected.. and grown as a conservatory plant for decades in england [mid 19th century???] ... [wonder how it got its cold period that way]

one of the VERY FEW .. with a true white flower ... most others have some hint of purple immediately upon opening... which will fade to white immediately ...

to me.. its fragrance is reminiscent of gardenia ...

genetically .. it is thought to be mom .. to ALL OTHER FRAGRANT hosta ...

its prime ID characteristic.. is its 6 inch flowers ... and its progeny.. can NOT replicate the 6 inch.. and immediately .. they fall in size to 3 inches ... [whats that mean genetically ... hmmmm.... its not a dominant gene????]

the flowers open at night.. and therefore are pollinated by night bugs ... hence a good reason for the scent ... so if you wanted to try to do some crosses.. you would have to be out there at sunset.. not at dawn ... and up here in MI.. needing 90 days for the seed to ripen.. you are hard pressed to accomplish such ... before they are frosted to the ground ...

can take full sun.. up here in MI ... subject to enough water ... one should presume.. the further south you go ... the chancier that proposition gets ... but for sure.. it needs a lot of light for those big flowers ...

i cant think of anything else right now.. oh i know.. all the claimed double and triple flowered versions.. are a WASTE OF MONEY ... as they only flower.. ONCE A DECADE... if you are lucky ...

apparently i do have a few thoughts on this one.. lol ... got most of it from schmids old tome 'The Genus Hosta' .. his most recent update is at the link in PDF form ... let me know if i mis-remembered anything ...

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: pdf link

Yes, I bought these plants that long ago from Alex Summers in bloom, so I know what they are capable of.

Now, after a very hot summer, in full sun they have full size double blooms and many of them.

There are currently 27 bloom scapes with heavy buds on 22 clumps.

First photos are July 28 - this is how the buds typically look and then don't open.

The next photo is the 22 clumps in full direct, noon - 5 PM heavy sun.

Finally, after 5 days, the blooms started to open yesterday! My large hand is shown for comparison.

More photos as they continue to open!

Bruce Banyai

Gardenweb has a few rules at bottom of the page where you create a posting. Mainly - Don't violate copyright, and no advertising.

And also a few guidelines in their Terms of Service. Too long to copy and post here, but worth a read thru. Mostly about rights. (linked below)

Regarding etiquette, most is common sense. but found this list of tips that seemed useful and generic. Many of these have been expressed as replies to poster questions on this forum.

25 Forum Posting Etiquette Tips
http://forum-services-review.toptenreviews.com/25-forum-posting-etiquette-tips.html/

1. Read the forums rules and guidelines before posting for the first time.

2. Search the other posts to see if your topic is already covered.

3. Use a meaningful title for your thread.

4. Do not use a forum to promote your product, service or business.

5. Be civil. Personal differences should be handled through email or IM and not through posts displayed to everyone.

6. Stay on topic.

7. Ignore spammers, respond to them personally and not through the board, or report them.

8. Do not submit a post that requires readers to download a large attachment. Either explain the attachment or, better yet, provide a link to the information.

9. Use plain text over HTML if you want your post to be readable by everyone.

10. In order to be understood by most people, use correct spelling, grammar and avoid slang unless you know the word or phrase will be understood by other members.

11. Do not double post (post the same message twice in one thread) or cross post (place the same message across several forums).

12. Act in a give and take manner; help others as often as or more than you ask for help.

13. Do not use all caps or SHOUT in your posts. In addition, one exclamation point is enough.

14. When replying to a post, do not quote more from the previous post than you have to.

15. Do not post new problems on someone else's thread and interrupt a topic of discussion.

16. Do not use someone else's thread for a private conversation.

17. Most forums prohibit warez, cracks or illegal downloading of software and similar topics.

18. Watch your sense of humor, posts may be read by people from a variety of backgrounds and ages.

19. Do not use a huge and annoying signature, a modest signature is fine, moderators may remove large ones anyway.

20. Do not post any information that you want private. Posts should not contain personal, identifiable information or content embarrassing to others.

21. Do not post content that violates a copyright.

22. Do not post "empty" or useless responses, such as just "lol" or "cool." Only post responses when you have something to contribute.

23. Write concisely and do not ramble.

24. Do not use words like "urgent" or "important" in your subject line, be patient.

25. Do not chastise newbies.

What are your thoughts? What are the de facto rules of the forum?

Paul

Here is a link that might be useful: GW Terms of Service: Guidelines

From Bill Meyer's comments A Primer on the Traits of Hosta Species - Hypoleuca adds some surprising traits. Large leaf size is the most interesting one, but others include attractive flowering, acceptance of blue and lutescent gold coloring, and white leaf backs, as well as strong vigor (strange as that seems).
from a Mississippi Valley Hosta Society Newsletter
http://www.mvhosta.org/newsletter/March Newsletter 2008.pdf

Here's a pic from a garden tour that catches how white the backs are...

Here are lists of Maekawa and hypoleuca crosses-

Maekawa Hybrids
Big Pizza Pie 'Dorothy Benedict' x 'Maekawa'
Biggie 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Blockbuster 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Blue Suede Shoes 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Blueberry Patch 'Galaxy' x 'Maekawa'
Bows and Arrows (F1 seedling of 'Dorothy Benedict') x 'Maekawa'
Caesar Salad ('Korean Snow' x 'Maekawa') x 'Elvis Lives'
Cajun Sunrise 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Clouded Skies 'Fragrant Blue' x ('Korean Snow' x 'Maekawa')
Curlicue 'William Lachman' x 'Maekawa'
Dazzling 'Dorothy Benedict' x 'Maekawa'
Fiesta 'Pin Stripe Sister' x 'Maekawa'
Frisian Falls 'Maekawa' x 'Gilt by Association'
Golden Gloves 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Heavenly Constellation 'Breeder's Choice' x 'Maekawa'
Kilauea 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Megacup 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Mother Lode 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
My Cup of Tea 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Neptune ('Maekawa' x 'Halcyon') x 'Salute'
None Lovelier 'Neat Splash' x 'Maekawa'
Nutty Professor 'Maekawa' sport
Orange Crush 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Outrigger 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Purple Mountain Majesties 'Galaxy' x 'Maekawa'
Red-hot Mama 'William Lachman' x 'Maekawa'
Rhinestone Cowboy 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Ring of Fire 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Silver Moon 'Maekawa' x 'Blue Moon'
Song Sung Blues 'Dorothy Benedict' x 'Maekawa'
String of Pearls 'Goddess of Athena' x 'Maekawa'
Super Star 'Dorothy Benedict' x 'Maekawa'
The Mamas and the Papas 'Foxy Doxy' x 'Maekawa'
These Colors Don't Run (x 'Dorothy Benedict') x 'Maekawa'
Tutti-frutti 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Unbridled Passion ('Neat Splash' x 'Northern Halo') x 'Maekawa'
You Light Up My Life 'Foxy Doxy' x 'Maekawa'
ZZZZ, A Sleeping Beauty (x 'Dorothy Benedict') x 'Maekawa'
hypoleuca hybrids
A Blue Streak 'First Impressions' x hypoleuca
A Lady in Blue 'William Lachman' x hypoleuca
A Many-splendored Thing 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
American Gold Band 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
Aqua Duchess hypoleuca x 'Cartwheels'
Arc de Triomphe 'Foxy Doxy' x hypoleuca
Arch Duke hypoleuca x 'Cartwheels'
Azure Snow hypoleuca seedling
Band of Gold 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
Bedford Blue hypoleuca x 'Halcyon'
Big Top 'William Lachman' x hypoleuca
Black Queen hypoleuca selection
Blue Ridge Mountains 'Galaxy' x hypoleuca
Blueberry Pancakes 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca
Bluegrass Country 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca
Butternut Hill hypoleuca x hypoleuca
Cascading Waters 'Liberty Bell' x hypoleuca
Celestial 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
Clambake hypoleuca hybrid
Color a la Mode 'Color Fantasy' x hypoleuca
Doublemint 'Herb Benedict' x hypoleuca
Elkhart Lake hypoleuca x 'June'
Eye of the Hurricane 'Calamity Jane' x hypoleuca
Fickle Blue Genes 'William Lachman' x hypoleuca
Final Answer 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
Floppy Disk 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca
Ganny Sandy 'Beatrice' x hypoleuca
Gazpacho 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca
Glacier Cascade kikutii x hypoleuca
Gosan Sunproof hypoleuca x (longipes var. latifolia x montana)
H. D. Thoreau 'Sagae' x hypoleuca
Happy Valley 'P14-3' x hypoleuca
High-rise 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca
Honey Hill Wrinkled Rainslicker 'Fragrant Bouquet' x hypoleuca
Hottie (x 'Galaxy') x hypoleuca
hypoleuca 'Urajiro' --->hypoleuca
King David hypoleuca hybrid
Kiwi Hippo hypoleuca x longipes
Lakeside Breaking News LBSR x hypoleuca
Lakeside Khum Kaw (hypoleuca F1) x 'Lakeside Ripples'
Lakeside Lagoon hypoleuca x "blue seedling"
Lakeside Plum Frosting seedling x (hypoleuca F1)
Lasting Impressions 'First Impressions' x hypoleuca
Lemon Meringue hypoleuca seedling
Lighthouse (F-1 seedling 'Dorothy Benedict') x hypoleuca
Limestone Lover hypoleuca hybrid
Maekawa hypoleuca selection
Maggie May hypoleuca hybrid
Magnificent Obsession 'Galaxy' x hypoleuca
Merry Sunshine 'Fascination' x hypoleuca
Old Black Magic 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca
Olive Oil 'Yellow Splash' x hypoleuca
Ooh La La 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca
Roller Coaster 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
Rumpled Sheets hypoleuca seedling
Sails at Sunset 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
Setsurei hypoleuca x pycnophylla
Show Stopper hypoleuca x plantaginea
Skyward 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
Splendor 'Galaxy' x hypoleuca
Stellar by Starlight 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
Sun Chaser 'Dorothy Benedict' F-1 x hypoleuca
Talladega hypoleuca x 'June'
Thor hypoleuca seedling
Topsy-turvy 'William Lachman' x hypoleuca
Uncle Albert hypoleuca x kikutii var. caput-avis
Valley's Poker Face 'Red Sox' x hypoleuca
Wild Blue Yonder 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca
Zeppelin 'Creme de Menthe' x (kikutii f. leuconota x hypoleuca)
Zydeco 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca

And lots of unnamed crosses.

Paul

Here is a link that might be useful: H. hypoleuca - Hosta Library -- PDF

Brunnera - Mine do not like any sun at all, they go limp!
Epimedium - Do well in shade
European Ginger - Seem to tolerate shade well
Helllebore - They do well in full summer shade
Ferns - Of course. I have Japanese Painted, Japanese Tall, Japanese Holly, and Cinnamon
Japanese Yellow Grass - It bows down towards the sun
Ligularia - Absolutely no direct afternoon sun
Pulmonaria (Lung Wort) - Mine do not like any sun
Varigated Jacobs Ladder - Do not like much summer sun
Varigated Solomon's Seal - Do quite well in the shade

Now of course there are other shade tolerant perennials that go well in a hosta garden.
I hope you will post your favorites.

It brings me to ask if the same treatment can get rid of the
very invasive camphor tree?

You can cut these trees down, but unless you remove every little piece of the root, it will grow back. Each little seed begins a new plant. And the wisteria, oh wow, it is hard to control too.

The same is true of the yew trees, seedlings everywhere, cannot just cut them off with the lawn mower, you have to pull them up.

So how do you deal with controlling them, terminating them, or whatever?

And what invasive plants do you deal with in your property?

There are interesting materials that could make a stunning and different kitchen. Not necessarily ''new''. It is overambitious to think that bucky balls and nano tubes will get to the kitchen before they're old hat in actual high technology applications. I mean older materials that simply don't get used in this room of the house.

We could have rubber countertops. There are rubbers that will withstand heat to 600F, resist oils and solvents, have enough mechanical strength to be a work surface, enough give to cushion a dropped glass, and can be colored.

There are a dozen synthetic solid surface materials that would be good countertops. Resins, pressed stone, glass products. Here is a website: http://www.scrapbookscrapbook.com/DAC-ART/kitchen-countertops.html

I mentioned antimicrobial copper alloys in another thread.

Traditional wood cabinetry is, in many ways, an absurdly difficult approach to the simple goal of drawers and shelves. An industrial engineer, tasked with specifying a work area, would never say ''we'll use expensive labor to piece together boxes from wood and glue using approximate measurements, then use more expensive and often indifferent labor to shim, screw and prop it all together with filler strips and molding covering up all the mistakes''. He would use a modular system of pre-made boxes and containers, fix a perfectly level mounting rail to the walls and hang the boxes from that. The counter wouldn't be glued down to the boxes, it would float above. Want to move the dishwasher to the other side, change a three drawer stack to a four, install an oven? No sawzall, no prybar, no living in the basement for months. Simply detach the box from the rail, swap in a new one. 1/8'' metal leaves more room for contents than 3/4'' wood, multiply by the hundred or so cabinet sides, drawer sides, door fronts, in a kitchen.

IKEA sort of follows this principle, partway. A wide variety of standardized elements that can be combined to make any cabinet layout you want, at a fraction of the cost of the traditional solution.

Even the way we think about kitchens is restrictive. We think of a sink, here, and a prep counter, there. Can they be the same? Some time ago, I got interested in using a darkroom sink as a huge sink-and-work surface-combined. If you're not familiar with a darkroom sink (film is not dead!) it is six or seven feet long, steel or fiberglass, watertight, about 3 or so inches deep, with multiple faucet spouts that reach everywhere. You work anywhere in the sink, then hose the whole thing down into a drain. If you had a rail at the front and rear walls, cutting boards and drain boards could be placed anywhere. The entire counter run or any part of it can be a sink, or a work surface, as you wish. The Kohler Stages sink is a miniature version of this.

Induction can make cooking location almost as flexible. Sometimes you only need a tiny two burner cooktop. Sometimes you need eight burners spread out. With induction, when you're only using two burners, your kid can color on the remaining six. The burners don't even have to be all jammed together in the same part of the kitchen.

For example, suppose you had a 10 foot long counter. Starting at the counter edge, the first 14'' is a 3'' deep darkroom type sink, with work surfaces placed and slid where-ever desired. The last 10'' to the wall is a long induction cooktop, one burner after another, lined up along the wall. You can prep a dish, cook it, and clean up after yourself, anywhere along that counter. You could have four people cooking, or just one.

Then there is verticality. I've been thinking a lot about verticality. We never have enough counter space. Because we only have one counter. If a library stored all its books on one shelf at waist level, it would have to be the size of a soccer pitch. If Manhattan housed all it's people on the ground floor, it would have to be the size of Kansas. But that's what we do in our kitchens. Darn, I have this sheet pan of trifles in progress, and no-where to set it down - my prep is now spilling over to the dining room. Too bad I don't have another shelf, or a stack of shelves, spaced to fit my mixing bowls or sheet trays or whatever I use for prep, ready to simply slide my work-in-progress onto.

I think, sometimes, that the reality is, most kitchens are not designed for cooking. Maybe a casserole or a pot of pasta. That's it. Most kitchens are designed to sit around in, to entertain in, to supervise homework, to show off all that Restoration Hardware neo-Elizabethan gloss. They're not primarily working spaces. They are parlors and sitting rooms, studded with faucet porn and writhing granite.

-

Species oleifera and 'large leaf' Camellia sinensis have both grown quickly for me too.

Steve

dretutz, thank you very much. I'm only half-way there, so stay tuned!

shades, thank you so much--it's a relief to get the cabinet mounted, and out of the living room. It's like taking down the Christmas tree--an added bonus is that the LR seems bigger now. I hope there are vintage cabinets in your future!

I've added a close-up of the stove knobs. I used the Milliput brand, two-part epoxy putty, the same that I used to fill the grout lines on the marble tile counter. I love that stuff! I've used it to repair chips on pottery and old enamel bread boxes, and to join two pieces of marble to make a door pull. It cures HARD, and can be sanded smooth, then painted.

Thrilled about the columbine--I feel like a proud aunt. ;)

Here is a link that might be useful: Stove knobs

If you’re still looking, and no one’s posted/found supplies in your area, use these tips from tapla:
Grani-grit – "Go to MSN Yellow Pages; Enter Grain Elevator under 'Business name or category'; Enter Location under 'Location'; Call those businesses with 'grain', 'elevator', or 'farming services' after the bold 'category'; Ask for crushed granite grower grit. If they say they have it, be sure it is crushed granite before you head out to pick it up. It might be helpful to ask if it is packaged under the name 'Gran-I-Grit'." I also got lucky looking under "feed suppliers/stores" ...
Turface – Use the website to find local distributors: http://www.profileproducts.com/en/sports_fields/wheretobuy.htm

State/Region/Province: Maryland (Central/North)
Turface: Newsom Seed Company, locations in Fulton and Gaithersburg (sells by the 50# bag), www.newsomseed.com
Grani-Grit: The Mill, Parkton (Does not normally stock it, but readily orders it for no extra fee; will sell small quantities) (410) 329-6558
Bark fines: "GardenPro, Premium Bark Mulch" from Lowe’s (must be sifted through screens for size, but decent to start with)

I read on several websites from extension services and botanical gardens that this plant is diecious, meaning the plant is either male or female flowers, and if you really want berries, you had best get both a male and female plant.

So in early spring I visited several nurseries, many of which had wax myrtle
(advertising the berries on their tags.) When I asked if there was any way I could get a male and female plant, they looked at me like I was crazy. The wax myrtles they had were not in flower yet (and its not supposed so be easy to tell the male vs. female flowers), but the nursery people at three different places would tell me something, with attitude, like: "Ive been working here for 20 years, and I can assure you there are not separate male and female myrtles." They had heard of this for ginko trees, for example, but not wax myrtle. They were no help. Finally a nice guy who runs a native nursery around here (called mulberry woods nursery, which I had not heard of) suggested I ask Jason, the owner of petals from the past. Because sure enough, Jason buys from a native grower near Mobile that sells cultivars of wax myrtle, including a male he calls "Salty Dog" and a female he calls "Wolf Bay."

So the moral of this (long and perhaps boring) story is: you are better off buying from your nursery friends who really KNOW the plants, not just sell them, and be nice to them because they are few and far between.

If you are thinking of a rustic, vintage-y look, it might be something to consider. In the right house, right kitchen I think it would look fabulous.

Much of the original woodwork at my house is intact and unpainted, though some of it is quite beaten up. Previous owners (I've been here about a year and a half) apparently did some work on it, but it's not entirely clear to me what exactly they did. My son and I have been gradually tackling some of the shellacked stuff that had alligatored and we have more or less successfully rejuvenated several doors and door frames by using denatured alcohol to dissolve and reconstitute the alligatored shellac.

Question now is what to do about the staircase, which is a veritable patchwork of woodwork in various stages of restoration (not to mention species...some is oak, some pine). Many of the spindles have been nearly stripped of finish, apparently using alcohol on the shellac. They've left nearly bare areas, with dark rings of aged shellac in every bead and cove. The newel posts and rails however, seem to have undergone the same treatment as the doors I've done and seem fine.

I am really loathe (for budgetary reasons among others) to dismantle everything and send it out to be stripped. I am willing to live with some variablility and considerable imperfection in the finish, as I am of the philosophy that I live in an old house, not a museum. But I would like to try to even out what I've got a bit. Anyone got any suggestions?

Ken

Our builder wants to use "the Panasonic exhaust fans," which I've Googled up and appear to have identified as the Whisper series.

Since the Fantech blower is at least somewhat removed from the grate in the ceiling, I have to think it would be quieter.

Have already done some searching and reading here, but not seen as much about the Panasonic as the Fantechs, which seem to have a pretty ardent group of owners. Any other experiences and recommendations?

Thanks!

Pick them when they first start to "loosen" or "opening" their petals, the squeeze test (like CHARMIN ;-)

They start out tender and the longer you leave them on the shoot, the tougher they become,until eventually they become fully opened and produce absolutely gorgeous flowers

The small DO NOT eventually get bigger, so pick them when they are tender (unopened) , they will be the size of the ones you purchase in the store that have been marinated.

As for posting pics
1. Go to Photobucket.com and get a album (free ;-)
2. Upload Pics to your album
3. Click on the HTML link and cut and paste the link into your post.

I love what you have done, it sounds a lot like me, other than you seem to be made of money and I am dirt poor ;-)

After you set up your album use the "uploader" to fill up your album..

The third link down is the HTML code to copy and paste into your post.

moccasin, I can just imagine you stacking books--you are one determined woman! I used a section of 2x4 for a cabinet cleat. I don't think I'd be up to balancing an 8-foot wide cabinet on a MW cart, although I once used my kids' little red wagon to transport big rocks for a stone wall. It was just the right height for me to roll the rocks onto it, then roll them into place on the wall. Of course, that was 15 years ago...

The paint is Valspar, Kitchen and Bath, in soft gloss. I live 10 minutes from a Lowe's, so most of my paint comes from there (or from my mother, who buys lots of 'mis-tints' and mixes her own.) The paint was one of the first things I bought for the kitchen, and I still love it.

Nancy, I am blushing! The original latches were not salvageable--I even took them apart, hoping to be able to repair them. I got lucky and found 7 latches for $28.00 (including shipping!) on ebay. When I asked, the seller included both right and left hooks, so I can use the latches on either side. I'm using the other three latches for the extra cabinet that will go in the dining room.

Shades, I've always envied your pantry! I used wallpaper in the pantry, too--cut it to fit all those little shelves--that way I didn't have to wait for the paint to cure before loading them. I buy the wallpaper at a local outlet for $1.00/roll, and it's usually pre-pasted, so if you wet it, it stays in place.

You mentioned the vinegar/heat technique: The latches were shiny brass. To make them look vintage, I soaked them overnight in apple cider vinegar, then 'baked' on a cooky sheet, 300 degrees, until they darkened. After I attached them to the cabinets, I used a scrubbie to take the patina off the top of the handle--as if it hand worn off with years of being pushed with a thumb. Wish I were closer to take advantage of the deals on cabinets. I decided to buy inexpensive drawer bases at Lowe's--they'll be painted the Dried Hydrangea color. It's so nice not to have to rinse sawdust off everything that comes out of a lower cabinet! I look at magazines backwards...talk about great minds ;)

marti8a, my very first question on GW was about black marble. I bought polished tiles at Lowe's (I really don't own stock in Lowe's, LOL) for $1.49/sq.foot. I'm sure it was seconds, and was highly polished. I bought more than I needed, then culled out the best tiles for the kitchen counter. I used the best of the 'rejects' for the prep sink counter, since it was practice for the kitchen. I honed the tiles by dipping them in a white vinegar bath, then in a baking soda bath to neutralize the acid. Rinsed in water, then sanded with progressively finer sandpaper, to a soft glow.

On the prep sink, since it is a 'wet' area, we left a 1/8" space for grout. After I grouted, I wiped out the bevel. When the grout cured I used Milliput epoxy putty in each grout line, cut level with the surface of the tile. Again, I got lucky--the Milliput putty comes in three colors: white, gray, and black, and the black is a perfect match for the New St.Laurent marble. When the epoxy cures, it can be sanded and buffed to match the different color nuances in the marble. I used a pin to scratch lines across the cured putty, connecting the natural lines in the marble, and also used some of my daughters' cast off nail polish, which worked amazingly well to simulate the white marble veins.

Since the kitchen counter is mostly a buffet (not wet, or a prep zone), I skipped the grout, butted the tiles, and filled the bevels with the epoxy putty. Then scratched the designs on the cured putty, as before.

**I admit--this is an experiment,** but a fairly inexpensive one--the kitchen counter cost only about $100. It would have been closer to $150, but I used some left-over materials. If it doesn't hold up, I can redo it myself in a few years. So far, the prep sink counter is holding up well, with daily use. Currently the coffee maker is sitting on a metal tray on that counter, and no problems, except for a few surface scratches where the tray has been pushed around. I take care of scratches and etches with a fine sanding sponge, and try not to nag everyone :(

Sorry if this is more than you ever wanted to know about marble tile :)

About my doors-- I ordered my doors from Advantage Door Company. I looked at many door companies, including Scherr's--who come highly recommended from GW and Ikeafans, but would have made this project cost prohibitive for us. Advantage was quite a bit less $$ than Scherr's.

Scherr's does have all the IKEA measurements on file and will do all the drilling for you, so that is definitely a plus! All you have to do is tell them which cabinets, and they do the rest, which would make the whole custom door thing a piece of cake!

In our case, I worked with Darryl and Advantage and gave him the specs to do the hinge cup boring for the IKEA hinges (made by Blum). I not only told him over the phone, but I also emailed a copy of template. Still freaking out, I actually mailed the corner of a door with the hinge pattern to him. Hahaha. I really didn't need to do that, but I was so nervous. LOL. We did all the other drilling ourselves, using both a shallow and a deep drawer as a template--all shallow drawers are the same, and all deep drawers are the same. Before I sent everything, I went to IKEA and personally measured the doors and drawers myself. I brought a friend and we double or triple-checked each measurement I needed. I was pretty confident about the measurements. I also received tips from a couple Ikeafans/GWers who did custom doors with IKEA cabs.

Even though you say you are not handy, I bet you could do the assembly, it is really quite easy. Once you do one, the rest get easier and easier. If you wanted to give it a try, you could do what I did; I bought a 3-drawer stack, in the cheapest door (which is now Harlig), to see how difficult the assembly process was. I figured that a drawer stack would be the most challenging. It was actually easy and kinda fun! I knew that I could do it. The actual drawers are the easiest part, as they just click together! I did all the assembly, and DH and I did the install--mostly DH. I was the one who stood there and said, "Woo!" ;^)

Feel free to ask me any questions!

I just adore the house, and I know it needs a lot of work, but it needs more than we expected! Electric, needs service increased, and many wires taken care of. The roof is new, but it was done wrong, needs to come off and be totally redone to make sure it is right (Soft mushy spots). The entire septic system needs to be replaced, 2 showers will need total replacement, windows.. lots of windows, all in very poor shape.. but I would like to look into restoring them, vs. new sashes. Also, signs of old termite damage (not active), which is common in the wood frame homes in FL. Some areas of wood rot, some ceiling repairs, floors need a light refinishing....

We plan on getting some prices for these items and renegotiate the price, I figure with the kitchen redone, it will be close to $300,000 on renovations!

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Front of house, that area with the metal peak, was once a porch.

From Sunrise Drive

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Kitchen pantry and door into "sevant's bedroom".

From Sunrise Drive

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Years ago, this area was a porch, they stuck in an aluminum window! We can see the porch floor boards when we open the door.

From Sunrise Drive

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Dining Room

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Love this room, but they updated the fireplace, and I hate it.. that will need to go!

From Sunrise Drive

another view, looking down the hallway into the Master bedroom, to the right is the enclosed porch

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Looking the opposite way, is the entrance, with a coat closet to the side.

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Front door and coat closet

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built in's in living room

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Flash makes this picture look funny, but a small room, off the hall way heading towards the master bedroom. It's tung and groove paneling, has 2 windows that would have looked off onto the porch.. I have NO IDEA what this room could have been used for!

From Sunrise Drive

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Master bath, narrow cabinet behind door, not original.. cheap made cabinets that look good, but are not.I really like how it looks and plan on recreating it.

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one of 4 baths.. I'll be repainting!

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Flooring.. hope someone can tell me what wood this is.. they said heart pine?

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As aroid botanist Peter Boyce explains in volume 32 of the journal of the International Aroid Society, Aroideana, 2009 (page 15, volume 32), Pothos is a completely different genus containing 65 species. Plants in this genus look very little like Epipremnum aureum. Every genus has a specific set of defined characteristics and with this species several of those characteristics did not match the definition of the genus Pothos. Still, despite the fact it is not a member of the original genus it is commonly called a "Pothos" by plant collectors worldwide.

You appear to have the non-variegated form is less common that the variegated form but is the way the plant was originally discovered in the wild. There was a time when this plant was thought to be Epipremnum pinnatum but that has since been proved to be inaccurate.

Al is absolutely correct on his assessment. Pete Boyce clearly established the species was native to the island of Moorea in the Society Islands, north of Australia. Although not a native, Epipremnum aureum is now common on many Pacific islands as well as Malaysia, in Hawaii, Central and South America, Southern Florida and the Caribbean due to the release of imported plants. E. aureum is so wide spread in Hawaii it is considered an invasive species. It loves light and the plant strives to seek it out as a result of a subject known as scototropism.

Scototropic (sko-to-TRO-pic) growth describes the tendency of vining plants to grow towards the darkness found in the shade of a tree or object such as tall tree or a cliff, which will eventually allow the specimen to climb towards brighter light. The plant loves and needs bright light in order to grow larger as a result of photosynthesis which requires light.

My first suggestion would be to move it near a very bright window and give it something to climb.

The plant changes shape as it grows through a process known as ontogeny, provided it is allowed to climb. In our atrium the largest leaves are now close to 3 feet long but it morphs into many shapes as it climbs. Photos are on the link below.

In a variety of links on this site Al offers very good porous soil mixes that can encourage an aroid to live a long time and grow to a larger size as well as remain healthy. In the wild it lives largely in composted leaf litter and I�ve seen them growing that way at a number of places in the tropics.

When the time is right I would encourage you to consider repotting in a better soil mix but in the meantime, give it more light. Make sure the soil does not stay wet but also remember, this is a tropical plant species and loves water, thus the need for a porous soil mix.

The correct mix and proper watering are far more important than the size of the pot. I start many rare plants in much larger pots than most growers recommend and if you look at the homepage of my site you'll see they grow very large as a result of proper soil mixes, good light and the right amount of water. www.ExoticRainforest.com

Take a few moments and read my page below which was researched with the aid of Pete Boyce, Dr. Tom Croat at the Missouri Botanical Garden and others.

Al, can I suggest you post a link to some of your articles on soil?

Steve
Corresponding Secretary, The International Aroid Society

Here is a link that might be useful: Epipremnum aureum

Conservation Technology (Baltimore, MD) has all sorts of 'flipper' and other seals that work well on double hung windows without showing much (if at all).

The flipper seals are placed in a very narrow groove in the sides of the double hung windows and make a decent seal as long as the tracks are smooth.
Nothing shows when the window is installed.

You can also use the flipper seals on the top of the upper sash and the bottom of the lower sash (they show slightly when the window is open).

Felt seals can be used at the meeting rail in the middle of the window, and again only show when the window is open.

You will never find any wood as good as the stuff in those old windows.
Minwax High Performance Wood Filler can be used to repair damaged areas and then sanded and painted.
If you do a good job sanding the repairs cannot be seen under a coat of paint.
The filler can even be carved when partially hardened to repair damaged molding profiles (you can shape after hardening further, but is is easier to shape the partially hardened material).

Hiring someone to rebuild and renovate older windows often costs as much as replacing them.
You can do window renovation yourself bit by bit if you have storms to close the opening when the sashes are removed.

Most of the advantage of new windows is in the gasketing that reduces infiltration.
Even old wooden storm windows can use some gasketing to improve their seal.

Wood boards (my preference) require some upkeep. You can wash with soap and water in the sink, and deep clean by liberally sprinkling with salt and use 1/2 a lemon cut side down, to scrub the surface with the salt. You can also sand off stubborn stains. Wood cutting boards are usually made with laminated strips of wood glued together to form the board. They should be treated periodically to prevent delamination and to keep the wood from drying out, by coating it with food grade mineral oil (available in the pharmacy for a buck or two, or for lots more as cutting board oil - make sure the mineral oil is marked food grade or for human consumption). Apply a liberal coat, allow to soak in for several hours and wipe off the excess. Wood boards should never be washed in the dishwasher. Aside from aesthetic and environmental concerns, bamboo is no different from any other type of wood cutting board and should be cared for in the same manner.

I like to use Fish emulsion/kelp fertilizer. I follow the package directions for diluting with water and apply to the leaves. I am wondering about timing. If I spray the plant, and rain is predicted, is the fertilzer going to be wasted?

I mean, I think that once it is on the plant and DRIES on the leaves, that the plant has gotten it's dose and then if it rains, it doesn't matter. I have no idea why I think this..lol. Is that right or wrong? How long does the solution have to be on the leaves to get all the benefit?

More questions..[g]...What about applying it when the plants are in full sun? I always think that I should apply it early in the morning before the hot sun is on them. Applying when the leaves are wet? I always think I should apply it to dry leaves or else it will drip off. What about the plant being either watered or not? I always think the plant should be thoroughly watered before I fertilize? What about applying it every day? If this is the only fertilizer you use, can it really promote as good a growth as something inorganic? IF every day is too much, what about once a week?

Phhewww! Can't think of any more questions..lol.

Adam

In regards to possible problems associated with frost...if that happens, it absolutely will NOT be because of fertilization. Our trees and shrubs are going to come out of winter dormancy regardless of anything you may or may not apply to the soil. A severe frost could still come at any time (remember the Easter freeze a couple of years ago?) and zap the daylights out of our early flowers or new spring growth.

It's the late summer/early fall fertilization that cause problems for the woody plants. Such applications may keep them from entering their fall shut-down, making them susceptible to winter injury.

Avoid heavy doses of anything; don't use fertilizer spikes; and know that compost is a terrific, slow-release form of nutrients, too. Be mindful, as well, that your trees may not even need fertilization at all. Less is best when it comes to our woody plants.

The single most beneficial thing we can do for our trees is to provide a 2-4 inch layer of mulch, in a wide swath around the tree. Mulch helps create soil environment conducive to root development...stronger roots equals more top growth. Never, however, pile mulch up against the trunk in a big pile, a 'style' so popular with uninformed landscapers.

We have lipids in our skin that are rich in fats, waxes, and sterols that react with the high pH basic material on the outside of the pots. Other organic molecules that come in contact with this base material react as well. The slimy or soapy feel on fingers is due to saponification of the lipids in our skin and other diverse fatty acids that come in contact with and collect on the pot's outside walls. During the process molecular bonds are broken that release fatty acid salts and glycerol (you know how slimy glycerin is).

The short answer is: it is soap, and starts turning some of the lipids on the surface of your skin into a film of soap when moisture is present and you touch it - thus the slimy feel.

Al

Hybrivet Systems was acquired by 3M in February.

Here is a link that might be useful: Lead Check test kits

Toni, as far as I can see, peroxide doesn't hurt but does seem help. I've used it straight on orchid roots when repotting. Many times, orchids bought in certain big-box stores come home with rotting roots. When I repot, I remove all the soggy media, cut off the rotted roots and flush with peroxide, straight from the bottle. Then it goes into new, clean mix. When you pour it over any diseased part, it fizzes up and when it stops fizzing, you can rinse it off.

I don't know why it helps except to add additional oxygen to the infection and speed healing.

Jane

I think the webpage suggested using 1 or 2 tsp of H2O2 per gallon of irrigation water for increasing oxygen at the roots and for reducing problems with root rot and minimizing diseases. it mentioned a big increase in root mass and growth by using the H2O2.

So can or should H2O2 be used in both the 511 and grit mixes? Will this help houseplants, woody plants (trees and shrubs), etc. growing in containers?

thank you.

John

Hydrogen peroxide in containers

I don't think it would kill larger organisms like insects. I've never had a problem with bugs when growing in gritty soils. They tend to prefer fine, organic soils like decomposing peat or topsoil.

What I DON'T know is what effect it would have on soil borne insects...not much, I wouldn't think.

Mojave can put her plants into a tub or pan and let them sit in water for an hour or so. Any critters such as centipedes, millipedes, earthworms, sowbugs, etc., will likely end up trying to escape.

Above ground pests such as mealybugs can be controlled with a solution of one part isopropyl alcohol to three parts water, and applied as a mist. Do not use this for the soil.

There are several types of Pothos. Some w/a lot of variegation, some with a little, others mostly green. Green and white and green and yellow. Even different shaped leaves.

You want my honest opinion? I think you wanted a plant so bad, you bought the Pothos for the sake of getting a plant. lol..Don't feel bad..Been there done that. Fortunately, I stopped after 200 plants..lol..Don't want duplicates or plants I'm not interested in..

Watering needs. I let soil dry a little between waterings, never keep muddy or let bottom of pot sit in water. When you water, soak the entire rootball.
When the soil looks a tad crumbly, give it another drink.

There's no set watering schedule. It depends on room temp and sun. The warmer the room, the faster soil dries.
In summer, Pothos should be placed in bright light but never south or west, direct sun. Leaves can burn.

How far away was the Pothos from the mealy'd Hoyas?? It's terrible HD sells plants packed with insects, let alone Mealy, which I find almost impossible to rid.

About your Aglaonema/Chinese Evergreen, when you bought it was the pot in or outdoors?
Sometimes milipedes are found in soil. Creepy looking things, yuck..However, it's strange you never saw them.
When the plant is watered, milipedes crawl to the top. They don't vanish in thin air. lol.
By chance, did you summer your CE outside, or repot in fresh soil?

The most common insects found in soil are Fungus Gnats, Milipedes, and Soil Mealy.
But, I wouldn't worry about, or add anything unless you see one. Insects are treated according to the type.

To prevent Fungus Gnats, don't over-water. Proper watering and fresh, circulating air is a good start. Pothos aren't humidity hogs, but too dry an environment can cause problems. They enjoy some humidity. I mist Pothos daily, and shower (foliage) in the sink, once a week.

Please, don't add Peroxide or Rubbing Alcohol in the soil.

Some people use Rubbing Alcohol when a plant gets Mealy Bug. Leaves are swiped w/the alcohol. Perhaps that's what you're thinking?

I mix a batch of household, non-chemical products and spray plants, 3-4 times a month, as a preventative.
You'll need a mister, 2-4 drops dish soap, (not Dawn) citrus peel or juice, hot pepper, preferably liquid, and garlic. I mix all ingredients, shake, and keep overnight. The following day, shake mister again, then spray plants.
Thank God my plants are insect-free.

For Scale Bug I add the same ingredients above, plus a capful of Fish Emulsion. Spray plant thoroughly.
When FE is added, leftovers must be discarded. It can't be kept overnight.

Mojave, if you're worried about pests, check your plant daily..if anything I'd be concerned about Mealy since HD's other plants were infested. Good luck, Toni

You will need:
A blender, one egg, 1/2 cup of veggie oil, 1 cup of water, 3 ounces of vodka.

In the blender, place your egg, oil, and water. Insert plant and blend on high until liquified. Drink the vodka. ;-)

Here is a link that might be useful: Simple Green MSDS PDF

Here is a link that might be useful: Witches' Brews & Sorcerers' Potions

Our shed, not so much!

Obviously they need to be painted (which I'll do as soon as I finish the stairs). I probably made the dresser portion a little too high, but I think it's OK. And the window seat looks shrimpy but I'll put a 4-inch cushion on it like I did in my kitchen so it should end up about 21 inches high and quite comfy. The bookshelf type thing over the top of the window was a last-minute add on because I felt we needed something to bridge the gap between the two sides of the built-in. It's very high and I won't be able to reach it without a step ladder so not the most functional thing in the world, but more storage is always good in a small house, right?

I'm pretty excited about it. And the drawers are all full extension so you can actually get to those last 3 inches in the back of the drawer! It's the first decent "dresser" I've had since I was a little kid.

But this is what I have to finish before I'm allowing myself to work on the built-ins: the staircase from hell.

Some previous owner painted over the dark stained and polyurethaned risers, but failed to sand or prime first so they've been a mess since we moved in and I finally decided to make it right once and for all. Not fun. It's going to make painting those built-ins downright fun!

Shades and Marti (on the gun)- I bought an Arrow nail (brad) gun. It's very light with little kickback. The tripper was so sensitive that I switched the gun to off nonstop because I was afraid I'd accidentally set it off when I didn't mean to. I was pleasantly surprised. It seemed to be designed more for a woman than a man. They make a 29 dollar model that does small brads and several sizes of staples. And, they make a 59 dollar model that does 4 sizes of brads.

Gotta run, but I'll get the material and process stuff up soon. In the meantime, here is my inspiration:

Next, I want to try to reconfigure the shelves to the left of the fireplace. ;)

http://www.betterlifestyleproducts.com/?gclid=CIm8_vf6lacCFcbsKgodmXracw

Here is a link that might be useful: fold away ironing board

With banquette drawers open"

The above is with all three drawers open. The black box in the bottom of the photo is a fabric box that is 22.5" wide, 17" deep and 12" high--it contains table linens, platters, vases, coffee carafes, candles, and spare IKEA drawer parts. That white thing in the middle drawer is a rather sizable bread machine--just to give you an idea of how wonderful these are for storage.

This is a close-up of the drawer that is opened every day--sometimes many times. Those are big Costco packs--that's why I usually call it the Costco drawer LOL.

I also have a pantry drawer in my peninsula for dry stores. These IKEA drawers hold a lot of stuff. I am very impressed with the whole system.

Yours sounds like a truly cold climate. We are having such an early start to the frigid temps this year, it does make you wonder if the La Nina forecasts will play out. So, do people garden up there or is the growing season too short?

This spring I was particularly amazed at the huge array of tomato plants for sale at all the nurseries here. Thousands of plants for sale - and yet - only a tiny chance of actually getting any fruit from them. I guess that shows how optimistic we all are! I do see hoop houses becoming more popular though, which would increase your chances of getting a red tomato.

Lily,
Agreed, cooling is a challenge in the summer. It took me awhile to get that sorted out. We have 50% shade cloth on the roof and west side only. In addition to the roof vents, I open the front door and the large back window. I have two box fans for air flow. Then I put in a misting system which is very effective.

I made the misting system with emitters plus tubing. It has 3 nozzles along the crest of the ceiling, spaced 3 feet apart. Thanks to this forum, I found a great timer which was the hardest thing to locate. With all these cooling strategies I can easily keep the temps in the mid-90s at the most. Things cool off a lot at night, which helps too.

This morning it is 2 below outside and 26 degrees inside underneath the frost blankets. Chilly, but warm enough for the plants to survive.

BTW, I found great fabric for frost blankets at Joann's fabrics. Its a white felt made from recycled soda bottles. It's fluffy and lightweight and seems to work great. I just went back to get more since the one piece I got last year always seemed to be in high demand.

This past spring, we perfected the art of the "lettuce factory," which is a simple windowbox hanging from chains. We have found many advantages to growing greens this way. We also have a "pesto factory" (which was the original) along with spinach and mixed greens. We call them factories because they produce so much!

You need to use a high quality, penetrating oil formulation from a paint store (not Home Depot or Lowes) Brand names would be TWP, Cabot's, Deckscapes, Sikkens (SRD formula) or maybe even Olympic Maximum (not plain Olympic which is junk) Do not, by any stretch, use CWF, Behr, or Thompsons. You also cannot use any type of tung oil or plain oil rub. The deck will covered in black and green mold in very short time, shortening the life of the deck.

When you are done building the deck, you will need to find a sodium percarbonate based cleaner (Wolman's makes one) Follow that with an oxalic based pH balance/brightener (Cabot's makes one).

Your desire to not have to seal every year is a long shot if you are sealing it yourself. It can be done every two years if your prep and cleaning is perfect, the wood is in the right pH balance range when applying the oil sealer, you use the right technique for proper sealer penetration, you use a very high quality product, and if you're enviroment isn't too harsh. If you get frequent rain/high sun cycles you can count on doing it every year for the type of aesthetic you are seeking.

I'm not sure what kind of info you are finding about bricks leaching "bad things" but I think it overstates the case to a large degree - even the migration of toxic substances from CCA-trated wood into the soil is pretty minimal and it's difficult to consider any masonry material creating problems - standard 8"x8"x16" concrete builders blocks or self-locking wall blocks are often used. Or you can go upscale and use natural dry-stack stone.

Here is a link that might be useful: recommendations for raised beds.