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RE: hostas under a birch? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: newhostalady on 09.02.2014 at 11:38 am in Hosta Forum

I have been very interested in reading what others have said about their planting experience under a birch tree.

I have two birch trees in my front yard. One would look similar to yours, but has three tree trunks, and has been there at least 40 years. I had three clumps of undulata univittata around it. Every spring they looked lovely enough, and then the whites narrowed and became more green (stress). I removed two of them last year. I couldn't even get the last one out this year without ripping it out (due to all the tree roots and the dryness). I have given up and have put stones around this tree instead.

My second birch clump (25 years old) with four tree trunks has many feeder roots around the soil right next to it. I have done a planting around it, but am unhappy with the amount of roots and almost constant dryness. I have kept the planting, but have put the plants in either a pot and buried it or a spin out bag.

When I planted my Liberty two years ago, I found that there were large roots which I believe are the anchor roots of the birch. I ended planting Liberty in between two such roots. I now wished I had removed at least one of those roots. (I would like to reposition Liberty one day.)

I had planned to enlarge my garden bed by incorporating a bed from birch to birch. I have changed my mind as I am quite frustrated with the roots of the birch tree.

We are allowed to remove the birch tree clump of four, but my husband disagrees. I am working on him! Because I need more hosta space!

Do you get the Hosta Journal by the AHS? The last journal has an article by Olga Petryszyn entitled "Killing with Kindness. Trials and Tribulations of Moving a Mature Garden." After landscaping her new property, almost all of her trees died. Mind you, she did extensive work---but she had never wanted to lose those trees. In the same journal is an article entitled "What Happens When Soil is Added over Tree Roots? . . . Rule #7: Change the soil environment by raising or lowering the soil grade or by compacting the soil. This reduces the oxygen level in the root zone and causes the tree to die." My neighbor had a patio put in her backyard. At that time, the soil around one of her mature trees was raised up by about 12 inches and patio stones were put in to hold it in place. That was about ten years ago. The tree has slowly been dying and there are several dead limbs on it. This tree is a Maple.

So my advice to you is to definitely make a garden bed, but give some thought as to exactly where you want to put it. If it were me, I would try to stay away from the birch tree---maybe incorporating it at the end of the garden bed rather than in the middle of it. (My plantings situated at least six feet away do not seem to have as many roots. Perhaps give some thought as to what you will do when you encounter the anchor roots.

I hope that you will experience what coll and ThistleandMaize have, that is, very little root interference when making your garden bed. I hope I don't sound too discouraging. I think that you can create an awesome garden and seem to have ample room to place this bed.
One more thing to consider. I see in coll's picture that she has only one birch tree trunk. Can we safely presume that one tree trunk will have less surface roots than a clump of two, or three, or four? Also, do different kinds of birch trees have more surface roots than others? I know I have two different birch trees, but the roots seem to be comparable.

I took a picture today. It's not that clear as it is a gloomy day here. But I think it will give you a better understanding as to what I am talking about.

NOTES:

planting around/under trees
clipped on: 09.11.2014 at 01:03 pm    last updated on: 09.11.2014 at 01:04 pm

RE: baby did well (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: steve_mass on 09.05.2014 at 01:41 pm in Hosta Forum

As usual, Ken's right. It belongs in the ground.

I just want to say that I really like your seedling. It's got very nice streaking and good color. The official parentage of it would be Fickle Blue Genes x OP. Fickle Blue Genes is an excellent breeder. It is from William Lachman x Hypoleuca and usually produces nice blue color in its seedlings. If you want to know the potential of your seedling you should try selfing it. That is to say using its own pollen on itself, and growing those seeds. The resulting seedlings from a selfed cross will let you know what traits your seedling can pass on to its progeny.

Happy growing.

Steve

NOTES:

now I know what selfing is good for.
clipped on: 09.06.2014 at 03:02 am    last updated on: 09.06.2014 at 03:02 am

which multi peltaled plantaginea??? == i win!!!

posted by: ken_adrian on 09.01.2014 at 08:27 am in Hosta Forum

yes.. once every 5 years or so.. i win ... lol ...

and i swear i will label it .. this time ... if anyone can tell what it is ...

all the Ps this year.. were squat ... i blame spring being about 6 weeks late.. the upside... no frost damage ... as they refused to come out of the ground ... and then... 3 long periods of drought ... with good rain in between ... not blistering hot.. but not pleasant for much of the summer ...

ken

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NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.03.2014 at 03:35 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2014 at 03:36 pm

2014 Aphrodite bloom scape watch is on

posted by: brucebanyaihsta on 08.15.2014 at 10:33 pm in Hosta Forum

Update on the big Aphrodite bed in the full sun that bloomed so well the past two years.

The past cold winter/late Spring has caused a lot of new leaf growth late, with many new divisions on the old clumps.

FINALLY have 4 full bloom scapes poking up from the clumps today, aided by the 3+ inches of cool rain the past 5 days. This bloom show is 3-4 weeks later than what we saw the past 2 years.

Plant growth is bright and lush - so I am still hoping for a few weeks of 80's - 90's temps which might allow the blooms to fully open.

I suspect from watching the clumps as they emerged this Spring that a lot of growth went into new divisions, which may mean fewer blooms this year on the immature growth.

Time will tell!

Bruce

NOTES:

always exciting when Bruce's Aphrodites begi to send up scapes...
clipped on: 08.30.2014 at 11:01 am    last updated on: 08.30.2014 at 11:01 am

RE: Another Nematode Question (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: steve_mass on 08.05.2014 at 08:53 am in Hosta Forum

I use what used to be called Zerotol. It's now called Bio Safe Disease Control. It's basically Hydrogen Peroxide although in a larger concentration than you buy at the drugstore. Wet the soil first and then drench it with this stuff. Do it again just to be sure. I've had good results with this in cleaning an area of soil. Recommended by Dr. Grewal who is doing the research for the AHS. BTW, if you are an AHS member you can read a status report on the ongoing research with Nems by Dr. Grewal in the latest AHS Online Journal.

Steve

Here is a link that might be useful: Bio Safe Disease Control

This post was edited by steve_mass on Tue, Aug 5, 14 at 9:20

NOTES:

Zerotol or Biosafe Disease Control for treating nematode infested soil for hostas.
Or, boil water and treat the soil. Or, do an ammonia drench.
clipped on: 08.23.2014 at 08:04 pm    last updated on: 08.23.2014 at 08:06 pm

New Challenge: It's an About FACE!

posted by: Hostanista on 02.18.2014 at 10:14 am in Hosta Forum

Name a hosta and most people on this forum can picture exactly what it looks like.

Name a MEMBER of this forum however and well...... aren't you curious to put a FACE to the NAME?! Let's FACE it, I can't even tell if some of you are boys or girls!

Now that the Hosta Alphabet is over, and before the 2014 Hosta season gets into full swing, how about some FACE-to-FACE time? Take a selfie right now!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.20.2014 at 03:45 pm    last updated on: 08.20.2014 at 03:45 pm

Moving a large fully leafed out Hosta -- lots o pix

posted by: ken_adrian on 06.05.2007 at 02:15 pm in Hosta Forum

well .. time for this one again .... i am sure you wont mind ... since i renamed my files.. i had to start a new post ... enjoy ....

you will need a rope .. like clothes line ... masking tape ... shovel ... pruning shears .... a strong back ... hose and water ...
water the hosta well in advance so it is in prime shape for moving ....

here is marion bachman before we start

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

take the clothes line ... and get it under the hosta .. and draw it tight about halfway up the petioles .. leaf stems ... draw it as tight as you can without breaking too many leaves ....
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

then take the masking tape and tape the petioles above or below the rope .... do not have fear ...

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

go dig the hole in the new place ....
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

proceed to dig at least half way out from where the edge of the canopy was ... with the caveat that you have to be able to lift the darn thing after its out ...

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

dig/cut a circle around the whole hosta .... and then 'pop' it out ... hoping there arent any tree roots to frustrate the procedure ... i never go more than one shovel depth ... which means you will be real close on the proper depth of the new hole ...
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

once loose ... lift and drop the plant twice, to remove any excess soil that might fall off ... you can use the bound leaves to grab the plant to move it around .... apparently sand falls off rather easily ...

drag the plant to the new hole and throw it in .... water it well and backfill and water again ...

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

remove the rope, but leave the tape there ... it will hold the leaves up until the roots start pumping water ... the process causes a loss of turgidity ... loss of water pressure to hold up the leaves .... in a week or two the tape will loosen itself, and you can remove it then ....


keep watering well ....

the tape will fall of in a week or 2 depending on heat and rain ... or you can remove it after you are sure the leaves will not flop ......

prune off any broken leaves ... after the tape falls off ...

water, water, water .... and she will look just like she did before the move.. weird but i cant find a picture of it settled in afterwards .... you will just have to take my word for it ....

bottom line .. they are hosta .. have no fear ... just teach them who is in charge .. and you will have a wonderful garden ...

good luck

NOTES:

This is a classic Ken post. Good to keep track of it, folks always asking about moving big leafed hosta.
clipped on: 08.13.2014 at 10:53 pm    last updated on: 08.13.2014 at 10:55 pm

RE: I'm Upset! (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: ken_adrian on 08.11.2014 at 06:33 pm in Hosta Forum

i got a bit more zen about it all.. after one year... i think it was a year or two before the national in my agrden ...

they sprouted.. got frosted to the ground... resprouted ....

got frosted again ... resprouted ...

then got hailed to the ground.. resprouted..

and then ... wait for it ... got hailed on again ...

i was sure they would not recover for the national ... they did.. life goes on ...

folks.. its august.. hosta season is nearly over .. they are only going to get uglier.. and uglier.. and uglier.. until they die to the ground ...

be POd at ma nature... but dont worry about them ...

ken

NOTES:

This is going to be another "classic Ken."
clipped on: 08.12.2014 at 12:36 am    last updated on: 08.12.2014 at 12:36 am

Hosta Size Classifications

posted by: Babka on 07.29.2014 at 09:21 pm in Hosta Forum

A recent post about minis and smalls got me thinking about the discrepancies in information given for hosta sizes. Catalogs often have different descriptions, and what is a small for one grower, is listed as a medium by another. Some of the newer ones haven't been grown long enough before they are registered (if they are registered) to determine size.

On top of that, growing conditions are a major factor.

This isn't a problem so much for pot heads, but makes it difficult for you grounders.

I did some searching at the AHS, but I cannot find their definitive rules on size classification, although I recall reading something about size determinations in a Hosta Journal. The link below is the closest thing I could find, It refers to "generally agreed" info on sizes.

Does anyone have anything more official?

-Babka

Here is a link that might be useful: Hosta Sizes

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.30.2014 at 09:30 pm    last updated on: 07.30.2014 at 09:30 pm

RE: 10 Ten Signs You're a Hostaholic (Follow-Up #117)

posted by: Marta_in_QC on 07.22.2014 at 03:12 pm in Hosta Forum

Best thread ever! A few more:

You know you're a hostaholic when you realize you are unable to give a simple answer when asked how many Hostas you have.

- You have one number for unique Hostas, another (much larger) number that includes duplicates/multiples, and you are not sure whether to include sports and seedlings in with the first number or the second number...

- Then of course there are the hostas you have ordered that have not yet arrived, and the hostas in your cart on several websites that you have not yet (officially) purchased.

- You have to bite your lip and avoid eye contact when your DH suggests you should stop buying more Hosta once you reach 100 -- because you can't reveal are WAY past that ...

- You bunch newly acquired hostas as compactly together as possible so they don't look like so many until you can get them in the ground. There are 23 Hostas in this cart, but a true hostaholic believes her DH will not estimate it as more than 8.

- You need a cart to haul your Hostas around.

- You read posts like this with tears in your eyes, your LOLs wake the dog up, and you're just grateful there's nobody else around to hear you.

NOTES:

Marta QC has my wagon too.
clipped on: 07.22.2014 at 05:35 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2014 at 05:35 pm

For Our Newbies...The Hosta Library; If You Haven't Seen...

posted by: Don_in_Colorado on 07.17.2014 at 07:59 pm in Hosta Forum

You all know what this is by now? If not, here's a link...Several different people here post this every so often for new members.

So, if SOMEHOW you haven't been to this yet, or heard of it...enjoy. AND it's free. Thanks, Bob Axmear.

Don B.

Here is a link that might be useful: 'The Hosta Library' Homepage

NOTES:

links to sources about hosta. pretty complete
clipped on: 07.18.2014 at 03:55 pm    last updated on: 07.18.2014 at 03:56 pm

Natural way to get rid of ANTS???

posted by: CapeHeart on 05.07.2003 at 06:49 pm in Tips & Techniques Forum

Hello - I haven't seen Ants around in years but some how this Spring they are everywhere! How can I get rid of them without chemicals? We have pets including chickens and small children around.

Thanks
Chantel :-)

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.17.2014 at 03:20 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2014 at 03:20 pm

Forest Backyard Pics.

posted by: BChosta on 07.03.2014 at 07:29 pm in Hosta Forum

Spent some time today cleaning up the backyard, after which I took the opportunity to take some snaps.
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Got to strike while the going's good!
BC

NOTES:

Beautiful landscaping hosta in pots. British Columbia coastal zone 8b
clipped on: 07.05.2014 at 11:32 am    last updated on: 07.05.2014 at 11:33 am

RE: What are your favorite beyond-the-basics garden tools? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: love_the_yard on 05.25.2012 at 01:07 pm in Florida Gardening Forum

Gina, I know you asked for beyond-the-basic garden tools, and these are basic garden tools, but it took me a long time to develop/determine my favorites, so maybe this post will helpful to a newbie. (Maybe.) You experts can drive on!

1) This is my method of working with potting mix. I put it in a large, plastic tub. I mix my own potting mix, so it is useful for mixing, but the biggest benefit is that I don't lose potting mix to spillage. When I used to pot directly out of a bag, I would end up losing half the potting mix to the driveway or the grass. Now I pot small seedlings as well as large-potted plants in the tub - and never lose any soil at all. I store unused soil directly in the tub. Just love this method!

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2) My current potting mix is a 1:1 ratio of these two bags pictured below plus a good bit of Walmart ground pine bark mulch from the purple bag, also shown below. I mix them all together in the blue tub:

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3) Over the years, I have accumulated a number of small trowels or shovels. See photos below. I have tried them all, but my two go-to shovels, 100% of the time, are the two pictured at the top of the photo below. The one with the orange tip on the handle is made by Fiskars - verrrry expensive - runs right around $1.00, I think! I don't know the manufacturer of the green-handled shovel. They are made of light-weight plastic, feel good in the hand, and are the right size and weight for me. I prefer them so much that I never use any of the other shovels pictured. Have bought a number of these for friends and family. I will hunt around the yard all day if I misplace either of them. I just love them!

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4) Below is a photo of my favorite stipple. (A stipple is a tool used to create a hole in soil for inserting a plant cutting.) A good stipple is important when planting cuttings because A) you don't want to use the cutting itself to make the hole - that could damage the cutting and B) if you use rooting hormone powder, you don't want to to push all of the powder off when the cutting is put into the soil. You use a stipple to make the hole and then gently insert the cutting with the rooting powder on it into the hole made by the stipple.

This piece of plastic came from the signs placed in the yard by the lawn-spraying company. I have a lot of these, as a sign used to be put in my yard just about about every six weeks. The pointed end makes the perfect stipple for most size cuttings. I keep one in the corner of the potting soil tub, as I am always trying to root things from cuttings.

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Pictured with the shovel for size comparison.

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A close-up of the tip.

5) Below is a photo of my all-time favorite shovel. The top shovel is my favorite shovel. The bottom shovel is a regular-size shovel. I can use the top shovel to plant just about any plant. With the exception of only a few trees, which required the bigger shovel, the smaller shovel is my choice to do the job. It is my go-to shovel when the two hand-shovels pictured above can't do the job. This small shovel is the perfect size for planting most 1 - 2.5 gallon plants. I don't know from where this shovel came - it was in my Dad's gardening tools and it may have belonged to his father. It is made by "Union" but I don't know where it was purchased or how long it has been in the family. But I love this size shovel and think it would be a good gift for any Florida gardener who doesn't already have one. Just love it!

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6) The photo below shows my hands-down favorite spray nozzle. I have owned lots of different sprayers and I prefer this one over all the rest. It is inexpensive - comes from Walmart and runs around $2.50. The official name is "Orbit 7 Pattern Rear Trigger Plastic Hose Nozzle" and here is a link: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Orbit-7-Pattern-Rear-Trigger-Plastic-Hose-Nozzle/16332364?findingMethod=rr

The reason I like this one so much more than others is 1) It is light-weight. It doesn't get as heavy in your hand as metal nozzles; 2) It doesn't "klunk" when you drop it. The metal ones hurt if they hit your foot, get all scratched up when they hit the driveway - and you know what happens if you drop them on the car while washing it. The plastic one is great and I only use two settings on it anyway - "spray" and "full". Perfect. Love it!

When I am done using it, I shake it out really, really well - until NO water drips from it at all. If you do that, the inner spring will last a long, long time. These nozzles last me 2-3 years. (If you don't shake them out - any kind, metal or plastic - the inner spring will rust and the water will not cut off. The nozzle will have a much shorter life.)

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7) Below is a photo of my favorite rake for spreading soil/manure/peat/amendments/mulch in new planting beds. I use it as pictured, tines facing up. The smooth bar makes it absolutely cake to spread anything across a new bed. Throw down a bag of manure and the back side of the rake spreads it evenly in seconds! Throw down a bag of mulch - again, the back of the rake will spread it evenly in no time, with no effort! Love this tool for spreading amendments in a new planting bed. Love it, love it, love it!

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8) My digital camera. I have learned how wonderful it is to have pictures of your yard and garden as they progress. I frequently go back to photos that seemed unimportant at the time to compare to today or check something out. So now I take a walk around the yard three to four times a year and take photos of everything. I try to get photos of the yard from every angle. I take photos of new trees the day I install them. I take photos of planting beds frequently as I get them installed to mark the progress. With digital photos, there is no cost except for hard drive space, so you can take all you want. You will be glad you have them later.

So that is a little tour of my favorite gardening tools! Happy Memorial Day weekend gardening, everyone!

Carol in Jacksonville

NOTES:

part of the planting workbench ideas. the mechanics of working in the garden
clipped on: 05.22.2014 at 11:06 am    last updated on: 05.22.2014 at 11:07 am

RE: "Aden" hosta (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: steve_mass on 04.17.2014 at 09:03 pm in Hosta Forum

bk,

I can't answer this question with perhaps the specificity that you require. I know much about it, but Bill Meyer, Kevin Vaughn, Mark Zillis and Don Dean know much more than I.

In some cases plants were seen as unnamed seedlings in Florences' garden. This is true of Sum and Substance. In fact Kevin Vaughn is sure he knows that the parents of this were Nigrescens x Bengee.

We also know through correspondence or interviews, what different hybridizers were working on at the time. Almost all of the work with variegation was being done by Florence or Kevin using Beatrice and another gold streaked plant. Kevin was the only one forcing plantaginea early. Florence was doing a lot of work with Gold plants and a number of different gold streaked plants were seen at Birchwood. In 1970 a plant like Elatior was extremely rare. It only existed in a handful of gardens, if that. So when seedlings showed up with Elatior characteristics in 1978, we know they came from Birchwood.

In some cases it's process of elimination. We know that Aden was not the originator of the plants that he registered. This was widely known among the Hosta congnescenti for years. No one ever saw any seedlings he created or evidence that he did any hybridizing at all. This despite many who visited "The Garden of Aden", which by all accounts was chock full of beautiful plants. There were only a few places that Aden could have acquired these plants from. Each of these possible sources were eliminated, or not, through records or face to face interviews.

In most cases we can say with about 90% certainty where the plants originated. There is always the possibility of a chance seedling or sport arising from a stolen plant. But frankly, I don't lose any sleep over that. The plants were stolen to begin with. The progeny weren't Aden's origination either, in my estimation. There will be plants about which we will never be able to prove the originator with 100% certainty. These may remain with an unknown registration.

In the case of Blue Angel, Blue Cadet and Golden Waffles, clumps of these plants were already established, in gardens other than Birchwood prior to Aden stealing them and registering them as his own.

But there are facts which are unassailable. 1. Florence died in June of 1975. During her illness in 1974 Aden had been accused of stealing plants from Birchwood by Florence's daughter. 2. Alex Summers reported in an early AHS newsletter that Paul Aden went to Birchwood shortly after Florence's death to help "sort things out." 3. The property of Birchwood was empty during the Spring of 1976 before it was sold in the summer to its current owner. 4. Several visitors to Aden's garden report the sudden appearance of numerous plants including mature clumps during the time that plants were going missing from Birchwood and Kevin Vaughn's garden. 5. The registrations by Aden begin in 1978 and they are voluminous. After registering all these plants as they mature over the next 5 to 6 years, Aden registers very few plants later on.

As for the Peanut/Lakeside Dot Com controversy, you should read the First Look essay on this situation.

Steve

Here is a link that might be useful: LDC vs Peanut

NOTES:

Aden story.
clipped on: 04.18.2014 at 01:07 pm    last updated on: 04.18.2014 at 01:07 pm

RE: Growers of potted up hosta (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: Babka on 04.10.2014 at 03:17 am in Hosta Forum

Josephines-
We have no rain here in Summer, so I hand water. Hard water salts build up in my pots so I have to flood them to flush them out.. Blankity, blank yucky, icky horrible pearlite floats to the top of the pot. It gets stuck in-between deck boards FOREVER. I hate, hate, hate perlite. When I pot up other annuals for, say, hanging baskets, or other pots, I only buy potting mix that has pumice or something other than freeking miserable pearlite. My hostas go into mini 1/4" fir bark. I only have to water them every 4-6 days. as the bark retains moisture.

Hosta roots grow out sideways then when they hit the sides of the pots, they head down. Just because roots come out the bottom doesn't mean the plant is pot bound. The whole center of the pot might have no roots. Best way to know if it needs to to up potted is to slide it out and have a look-see.

Hostas don't grow well in the ground here. (Silicon Valley). We don't freeze, and it is unacceptable to see bare dirt in Winter, when we can have flowering broad-leafed evergreen things. Every square inch of my weanie California tract home lot is planted with something that stays green all year around. I can hide my pots where I don't see them in Winter, then move them on the deck to see them all the time in Summer.
I've been using black pots for years...or green Monrovia ones. I place them so the sun doesn't shine on the pots. One gal and 2 gal pots can often go inside other plastic planters to keep the sun from directly heating their roots.

I have been growing hostas in pots since the late 1990's and I have NEVER lost a hosta being too dry during dormancy. Ever. I don't get new tc's in Fall. I generally buy hostas in Spring with the occasional Summer splurge for a "gotta have" one. As they go into dormancy (late Oct or Nov), they get one last fungicide drench, then nothing until they are up over an inch. I make sure of that by putting them in a space that is covered with a tarp to keep out our Winter rains.

I know when a pot is "heavy" that it has plenty of water. When it feels "light" it is time to water. I try to catch them before any leaves get soft. When you caress the leaves often as I do ( yes, I know it is a problem I have) you can tell if a plant needs water by feeling the leaves.

The top inch in a pot can be very dry, while the bottom of the pot might still be wet. Poke your finger in the bottom hole to tell if things are dry, not at the top.

I've been doing this finger poking thing for WAY too many years.

YMMV Every region has different weather conditions.

-Babka

I am writing this at such a weird hour because we just returned from a week in Waikiki. ;-)

This post was edited by Babka on Thu, Apr 10, 14 at 3:38

NOTES:

potting hosta as in California
clipped on: 04.13.2014 at 03:58 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2014 at 03:58 pm

RE: June Spirit? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: ctopher_mi on 04.01.2014 at 06:21 pm in Hosta Forum

I'm afraid Mark has it wrong in the book, but he is probably just going by the registration which is where the mistake was made.

Danny Van Eechaute named and registered June Fever and according to Danny the plant was growing in a field where they were growing Devon Green and June. At first glance it was thought that the plant was growing among the June so that's what they put on the registration and then it got submitted that way. Later on when they went back Danny found out it was really growing among the Devon Green. This topic came up a few years ago too and Danny confirmed again that it really is a sport of Devon Green.

When you think about it and look at June Fever it really doesn't look that much like June, even as it gets older, and the yellow color is different from the yellow in June. So when I first started growing it I kind of doubted the idea that this was identical to June and was just missing the blue wax. It makes a lot more sense that June Fever is a yellow centered sport of Devon Green, especially when you compare those two plants.

So yes, the registration says it is June and so do references and lots of websites. Until Danny or Jan van den Top submit a registration correction there will be some confusion on it.

Hope that helps to explain it better.

Chris

NOTES:

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clipped on: 04.01.2014 at 09:47 pm    last updated on: 04.01.2014 at 09:47 pm

RE: Suggestions Needed for Very Large Hostas (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: ken_adrian on 03.05.2014 at 08:40 am in Hosta Forum

very large... and giant hosta... can take 5 to 10 years to achieve max size ...

on rec'g mail order ... plant them.. pot or soil ... do not leave soaking in a bucket for more than a few hours ... even if all you do is heel them in.. until you can do it properly ...

if you need to use a bucket.. JUST THE ROOTS .. and not the crown .. can sit in water.. in a cool dark place ... it depends how dry they were on shipping...

it is not good to leave them wrapped in a plastic burrito for very long.. they need air ...

i have been know to tear away the bottom of the burrito .. and stand them in an inch of water ... for a day or two ... in the dark basement ...

i have also had some damp media.. in a wheelbarrow.. and held them ,.,. heeled in.. in that for a few days ... until they could get into mother earth ...

long term growing in pots is tricky.. and all depends on what you fill the pots with ... the media .... there should be hundreds of posts on such ... though i am sure... the pot heads.. will be glad to type it all up again ...

VL hosta.. have to grow a very large root mass.. to ultimately grow VL leaves.. and all that work is done.. where you cant see it ... so patience is a virtue ....

whatever sprouts out this spring.. is about all it will be .. this year ... 'fast growing' .. in the hosta world.. is not similar to fast growing in other plants ... unlike a rose.. which can go nuts its first year.. a hosta will not do that ...

the difference between 5 and 10 years.. can start.. with what you pay for.. and what you receive to start with ... if you go cheap;.. and buy a tiny twerp of a plant.. you will be toward the 10 year mark ...

if you invest upfront.. and buy a plant that already has a 2 or 3 year old root mass ... then you will be cutting that much off the 10 years ...

e.g. ..... halson's field grows there stock for 2 to 3 years... and is one of our favored vendors ... there are a few older posts on vendors ... good and bad ... maybe someone can kick up one of the old posts... from a handy link ... there are plenty.. that we dont like ... and do be aware... if you order from vendors in the great white north... and they grow in the ground... it wont matter when you want them... it matters when the soil thaws for them to be dug ...

you can barely kill a hosta thru abject neglect.. but you can love them to death.. lol ... water is about all they need ... and i mean deep complete watering.. not spraying the leaves down ... and heavy fert is not going to change the genetic tendency of maturity ... a little of this or that wont hurt... but maturity wont come faster by hyper-fertilization [which is within the definition of loving them to death ...

the biggest problem with pots... is winter dormancy.. and pot storage ... and you will have plenty of time to get that all straight by fall ... hosta have a requisite dormancy temp and duration .. and that is one of the biggest hurdles in the south ...

have you read thru all 65 pages of posts... lol ... new questions... on new topics.. are probably best in new posts.. never fear doing too many.. but try to use searchable titles.. so others can track them down .... should a topic reappear ... titles like 'HELP' ... well there are millions of them .... this title was spot on .... but as you can see... by now.. or responses arent on topic ... but have no fear.. just enjoy yourself ....

everything i know.. is there for the asking ....

good luck

ken

NOTES:

suggest this for a new HOSTA FORUM FAQ
clipped on: 03.08.2014 at 11:18 pm    last updated on: 03.08.2014 at 11:19 pm

Basically done - white and cherry shaker kitchen reveal

posted by: soibean on 06.22.2013 at 04:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

It's been a long journey to this point, but our kitchen, mudroom, eating area, and family room are finally done. Our project started out purely functional: we needed more storage space for all the extra pots, pans, dishes, and sundry that go with a kosher kitchen; we wanted functional space, as well; our appliances were breaking down; and we had no mud room - the back entrance to our house opened directly into our kitchen table.

I found GW in the course of researching appliances. I had never seen a white kitchen. I had never seen Houzz. I had no idea there was such a thing as inset cabinets, framed vs. frameless cabinets, what etching really meant, what quartzite was, the list goes on and on. Now nearly two years later, I've driven myself crazy researching things like faucets, ventilation, induction, countertops, backslashes, floors, paint colors, cabinet hardware - you get the idea.

Like most people here, I owe a huge debt of gratitude to GW. GW grounded me when I was trying to work through the layout of my kitchen, gave me a rich source of information for all of my decisions, and even led me to Dutch Wood, who made our cabinets. We literally would not be where we are without GW. So a huge thank you to everyone for sharing so freely.

Now for details:
Cabinets: Dutch Wood custom in Dove White and mahogany-stained cherry, mix of inset and full overlay
Backsplash - Heath ceramic tile 3"x9" in Frost glossy with white grout
Hardware: RH bin pulls and Amerock Highland Ridge handles and knobs in polished nickel
Faucets: Rubinet Ice and Moen 90 Degree in chrome
Gaggenau double-ovens (open box, half price on eBay)
Thermador 36" Induction cooktop (also eBay, open box)
Fisher and Paykel double DishDrawers (eBay, brand new on clearance)
Thermador 30" refrigerator and 18" freezer fully integrated columns
Franke Orca stainless steel sink (lplus a second 21" stainless sink)
Zephyr 42" Monsoon DCBL hood liner
Snowflakes granite
Room & Board Doyle counter stools, and glass table
WAC lighting clarity pendants
LZF Link pendant (eating area)
floors - red oak, not stained

Before pictures:
Old Kitchen

Old Kitchen

Old Kitchen

After (we added about 200 sq. ft. to the house in total):
Untitled

Untitled

Untitled

Untitled

Untitled

looking toward eating area and mudroom
Untitled

spice storage
Untitled

mixer cabinet
Untitled

k-cup storage
Untitled

cutting boards and paper towels:
Untitled

custom full-height trash and recycle pull-out
Untitled

One of two integrated Dish Drawers
Untitled

tray storage:
Untitled

cookbook holder
Untitled

eating area
Untitled

mudroom
Untitled

"doggie cabinet" (custom made by Dutch Wood)
Untitled

Untitled

Untitled

Family room (built-ins also custom made by Dutch Wood)
Untitled

Untitled

NOTES:

Absolutely well thoughtout, and beautiful too.
Sending it to my architect to describe some features I WANT TOO.
clipped on: 01.03.2014 at 07:38 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2014 at 07:41 pm

RE: Hosta with Yellow Flowers Coming in 2015? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: KUMAKICHI on 11.15.2013 at 08:58 am in Hosta Forum

Yellow flower Sugita original is selected species of Tsushima Hosta one of the wild species.

NOTES:

Yellow flower on host a.
clipped on: 11.15.2013 at 02:22 pm    last updated on: 11.15.2013 at 02:22 pm

RE: Blue Angel? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: berndnyz5 on 11.13.2013 at 07:31 pm in Hosta Forum

My 'Blue Angels', 'Elegans' and 'Blue Mammoth' seem to match the Hosta Library pictures. I bought those from local nurseries which seem to know how to label.
In the past I had that problem with identifying greenies which I grew in my yard since 1987 and had no identification left. It is especially difficult when you look at young leaves which have no corrugation yet and different vein count some times. When I checked my greenies I compared information in the Hosta Library to my plants. I took photos of leaves of the plants in my garden, measured height, width, leaf size, counted veins. Some plants change leaf colors during summer. Mature sizes I compared to the info at Mickfield Hostas which has grown plants to maturity I was told. Hosta Library sometimes shows immature sizes.
Since it was confusing to me, I tabulated all data on my computer.
Good luck!
Bernd

NOTES:

Best description of procedure to identify hosta NOIDS.
clipped on: 11.13.2013 at 11:23 pm    last updated on: 11.13.2013 at 11:24 pm

AHS On-line Auction

posted by: trudy on 10.01.2013 at 02:04 pm in Hosta Forum

Passing on the AHS Auction info.

January On-line Auction 2014: But That is a Long Time From Now!

October may seem an odd time to be thinking about sub-zero temps and cabin fever activities coming up in January of 2014 WRONG! There is no better time than now to take inventory, make note, and plan donations for the AHS On-line Auction. 2013 Online Auction showed us all that there exists a great degree of interest in seed, especially seed from good quality seedlings, rare collector plants, and streaked breeders. Do not have any of those, hey, there is also interest in seed from classics. Our participants have widely varying degrees of interest and experience with growing seed. The same holds true of plants, if you like it someone else will. This event is the second largest fundraiser for the society each year. Donors provide a description of plant material, seed, or garden related items and a digital photo. Each item is posted in an easy to use auction format.

Each year the AHS On-line Auction is held in mid January. News is distributed via email notices and upon the AHS website. Enter the AHS website and send a message to the chair, Don Dean, requesting that your address be added to the mailing group. Changed your service provider or have a new email address? Be sure to send this news to Don as well.

Much more information will be coming to the membership later. Take a moment now with this message to have your email included in future messages. Planning for possible donations is even more time critical while we can see what we have. Give it a thought and consider joining in on the fun and entertainment when the plant world can seem to have stopped!

On-line Auction Chair
Don Dean

NOTES:

seed auctionseed
clipped on: 10.02.2013 at 12:11 am    last updated on: 10.02.2013 at 12:12 am

RE: Nematodes...again (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: steve_mass on 09.11.2013 at 03:59 pm in Hosta Forum

Here's the best article on nematode management I've seen. They are really hard to get rid of. You can dig em up and throw em away, but if you do that you should pour lots of boiling water down the hole. The alternative is to try to manage them. The article below recommends Zero-tol.

BTW, for him to share plants with you and not tell you about having nems is a serious breach of Hosta etiquette.

Steve

Here is a link that might be useful: Delmarva HS presentation on nems

This post was edited by steve_mass on Wed, Sep 11, 13 at 17:31

NOTES:

zero-tol use for nematodes
clipped on: 09.13.2013 at 02:16 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2013 at 02:16 pm

RE: Naylor Creek Day on the forum! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mbug on 09.06.2013 at 07:37 pm in Hosta Forum

Inspire Greatness....A percentage of each sale of this beauty is donated to the Special Olympics.....I hope everyone adds it to their wish list!

NOTES:

Inspire greatness special Olympics
clipped on: 09.08.2013 at 04:31 pm    last updated on: 09.08.2013 at 04:33 pm

RE: Rooting of hosta scapes? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: ken_adrian on 09.01.2013 at 06:50 pm in Hosta Forum

yes i have said before...

that there are 3 basics parts to a hosta....

the white potato stuff is the crown...

from the top of the crown .. comes pips and leaves...

from the bottom of the crown... comes roots...;

things hanging off petiole.. the stalk.. does NOT HAVE CROWN ... so what are the roots going to pop out of.. my PWA ????

how do you root something that is lacking an inherent necessity????

again.. that said.. WHY NOT TRY

ken

NOTES:

Classic Ken
clipped on: 09.01.2013 at 11:38 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2013 at 11:39 pm

RE: Fresh bark fines vs semi-composted bark fines vs well compost (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: justaguy2 on 01.20.2010 at 06:55 pm in Container Gardening Forum

For all practical purposes fir bark=pine bark.

On your size question I would like very much for you to take the time to do a simple, at home experiment that will take under 60 seconds to help illustrate the 'point'.

Run your forefinger and thumb under the faucet. Press them together and then slowly pull them apart. Watch how water stretches between your thumb and forefinger until they get approximately 1/16th inch apart and then the bond is broken.

What this is showing us is how water will obey the natural forces of adhesion and cohesion and stand in direct defiance of gravity. Water will do this until something is done to weaken these forces relative to gravity.

When the ingredients in a potting mix are less than the size we can stretch our fingers apart by without breaking the water bond, the water will 'perch' in our potting mix. When the ingredients leave spaces larger than what it takes to break that bond, there will be no PWT.

Not composted bark will have little to no powder like or peat like particles. Semi and partially composted are just relative terms that describe what percentage of the bark has degraded into peat like particle sizes.

To the extent one is using SWC or growing water hungry annuals/veggies the finer stuff with it's massive water retention may be good. To the extent one is growing a plant intended to live more than a season in the same mix or it is sensitive to poor drainage, use larger particle sizes (just screen stuff in a window screen).

"Obey" this simple formula and any problems you may encounter are going to be due to something other than drainage problems. This may not be enough to solve all problems, but it's enough to rule in or out one of the more common problems we as container growers encounter - inadequate drainage.

NOTES:

drainage through bark fines in containerized plants.
clipped on: 09.01.2013 at 12:04 am    last updated on: 09.01.2013 at 12:04 am

Fertilizer Program for Containerized Plants III

posted by: tapla on 05.06.2011 at 10:44 am in Container Gardening Forum

This subject has proven popular on the Container Gardening Forum, having reached the maximum number of posts allowed on two previous occasions, so I'll post it for its third go-round. Nutrient supplementation has been discussed frequently, but usually in piecemeal fashion on this and forum and other forums related. Prompted originally by a question about fertilizers in another thread, I decided to collect a few thoughts & present a personal overview.


Fertilizer Program - Containerized Plants III

Let me begin with a brief and hopefully not too technical explanation of how plants absorb water from the soil and how they obtain the nutrients/solutes that are dissolved in that water. Most of us remember from our biology classes that cells have membranes that are semi-permeable. That is, they allow some things to pass through the walls, like water and select elements in ionic form dissolved in the water, while excluding other materials like large organic molecules. Osmosis is a natural phenomenon that is nature's attempt at creating a balance (isotonicity) in the concentration of solutes in water inside and outside of cells. Water and ionic solutes will pass in and out of cell walls until an equilibrium is reached and the level of solutes in the water surrounding the cell is the same as the level of solutes in the cell.

This process begins when the finest roots absorb water molecule by molecule at the cellular level from colloidal surfaces and water vapor in soil gasses, along with the nutrient load dissolved in that water, and distribute water and nutrients throughout the plant. I want to keep this simple, so I'll just say that the best water absorption occurs when the level of solutes in soil water is lowest, and in the presence of good amounts of oxygen (this is where I get to plug a well-aerated and free-draining soil). Deionized (distilled) water contains no solutes, and is easiest for plants to absorb. Of course, since distilled water contains no nutrients, using it alone practically guarantees deficiencies of multiple nutrients as the plant is shorted the building materials (nutrients) it needs to manufacture food, keep its systems orderly, and keep its metabolism running smoothly.

We already learned that if the dissolved solutes in soil water are low, the plant may be well-hydrated, but starving; however, if they are too high, the plant may have a large store of nutrients in the soil but because of osmotic interference the plant may be unable to absorb the water and could die of thirst in a sea of plenty. When this condition occurs, and is severe enough (high concentrations of solutes in soil water), it causes fertilizer burn (plasmolysis), a condition seen when plasma is torn from cell walls as the water inside the cell exits to maintain solute equilibrium with the water surrounding the cell.

Our job, because we cannot depend on an adequate supply of nutrients being supplied by the organic component of a container soil as it breaks down, is to provide a solution of dissolved nutrients in a concentration high enough that the supply remains in the adequate to luxury range, yet still low enough that it remains easy for the plant to take up enough water to be well-hydrated and free of drought stress. Electrical conductivity (EC) of, and the level of TDS (total dissolved solids) in the soil solution is a reliable way to judge the adequacy of solute concentrations and the plant's ability to take up water. There are meters that measure these concentrations, and for most plants the ideal range of conductivity is from 1.5 - 3.5 mS, with some, like tomatoes, being as high as 4.5 mS. This is more technical than I wanted to be, but I added it in case someone wanted to search 'mS' or 'TDS' or 'EC'. Most of us, including me, will have to be satisfied with simply guessing at concentrations, but understanding how plants take up water and fertilizer, as well as the effects of solute concentrations in soil water is an important piece of the fertilizing puzzle.

Now, some disconcerting news - you have listened to all this talk about nutrient concentrations, but what do we supply, when, and how do we supply them? We have to decide what nutrients are appropriate to add to our supplementation program, but how? Most of us are just hobby growers and cannot do tissue analysis to determine what is lacking. We CAN be observant tough, and learn the symptoms of various nutrient deficiencies - and we CAN make some surprising generalizations.

What if I said that the nutritional needs of all plants is basically the same and that one fertilizer could suit almost all the plants we grow in containers - that by increasing/decreasing the dosage as we water, we could even manipulate plants to bloom and fruit more abundantly? It�s really quite logical, so please let me explain.

Tissue analysis of plants will nearly always show NPK %s to be very close to an average ratio of approximately 10:1.5:7. If we assign N the constant of 100, P and K will range from 13-19 and 45-70 respectively. (I'll try to remember to make a chart showing the relative ratios of all the other essential nutrients plants normally take from the soil at the end of what I write.) All we need to do is supply nutrients in approximately the same ratio as plants use them, and at concentrations sufficient to keep them in the adequate to luxury range at all times.

Remember that we can maximize water uptake by keeping the concentrations of solutes low, so a continual supply of a weak solution is best. Nutrients don't often just suddenly appear in large quantities in nature, so the low and continual dose method most closely mimics the nutritional supply Mother Nature offers. If you decide to adopt a "fertilize every time you water" approach, most liquid fertilizers can be applied at 3/4 to 1 tsp per gallon for best results. If you decide that is too much work, try halving the dose recommended & cutting the interval in half. You can work out the math for granular soluble fertilizers and apply at a similar rate.

The system is rather self regulating if fertilizer is applied in low concentrations each time you water, even with houseplants in winter. As the plant's growth slows, so does its need for both water and nutrients. Larger plants and plants that are growing robustly will need more water and nutrients, so linking nutrient supply to the water supply is a win/win situation all around.

Another advantage to supplying a continual low concentration of fertilizer is, it eliminates the tendency of plants to show symptoms of nutrient deficiencies after they have received high doses of fertilizer and then been allowed to return to a more favorable level of soil solute concentrations. Even at perfectly acceptable concentrations of nutrients in the soil, plants previously exposed to high concentrations of nutrients readily display deficiency symptoms, even at normal nutrient loads.

You will still need to guard against watering in sips, and that habit's accompanying tendency to ensure solute (salt) accumulation in soils. Remember that as salts accumulate, both water and nutrient uptake is made more difficult and finally impaired or made impossible in severe cases. Your soils should always allow you to water so that at least 10-15% of the total volume of water applied passes through the soil and out the drain hole to be discarded. This flushes the soil and carries accumulating solutes out the drain hole.

I use a liquid fertilizer with a full compliment of nutrients and micronutrients in a 3:1:2 ratio. Note that 'RATIO' is different than NPK %s. Also note how closely the 3:1:2 ratio fits the average ratio of NPK content in plant tissues, noted above (10:1.5:7). If the P looks a little high at 4, consider that in container soils, P begins to be more tightly held as pH goes from 6.5 to below 6.0, which is on the high side of most container soil's pH, so the manufacturer probably gave this some careful consideration. Also, P and K percentages shown on fertilizer packages are not the actual amount of P or K in the blend. The percentage of P on the package is the percentage of P2O5 (phosphorous pentoxide) and you need to multiply the percentage shown by .43 to get the actual amount of P in the fertilizer. Similarly, the K level percentage shown is actually the level of K2O ( potassium oxide) and must be multiplied by .83 to arrive at the actual amount of K supplied.

To answer the inevitable questions about specialty fertilizers and "special" plant nutritional requirements, let me repeat that plants need nutrients in roughly the same ratio. 'RATIO' is also an entirely a separate consideration from dosage. You�ll need to adjust the dosage to fit the plant and perhaps strike a happy medium in containers that have a diversity of material.

If nutrient availability is unbalanced - if plants are getting more than they need of certain nutrients, but less than they need of others, the nutrient they need the most will be the one that limits growth. There are 6 factors that affect plant growth, vitality and yield; they are: air, water, light, temperature, soil or media and nutrients. Liebig's Law of Limiting Factors states the most deficient factor limits plant growth, and increasing the supply of non-limiting factors will not increase plant growth. Only by increasing most deficient nutrient will the plant growth increase. There is also an optimum combination/ratio of nutrients, and increasing them, individually or in various combinations can lead to toxicities and be as limiting as deficiencies.

When individual nutrients are available in excess, it not only unnecessarily contributes to the total volume of solutes in the soil solution, which makes it more difficult for the plant to absorb water and nutrients, it can also create an antagonistic deficiency of other nutrients as toxicity levels block a plant's ability to take them up. E.g., too much Fe (iron) can cause a Mn (manganese) deficiency, with the converse also true, Too much Ca (calcium) can cause a Mg (magnesium) deficiency. Too much P (phosphorous) can cause an insoluble precipitate with Fe and make Fe unavailable. It also interferes with the uptake of several other micro-nutrients. You can see why it is advantageous to supply nutrients in as close to the same ratio in which plants use them and at levels not so high that they interfere with water uptake. I know I'm repeating myself here, but this is an important point.

What about the high-P "Bloom Booster" fertilizers you might ask? To induce more prolific flowering, a reduced N supply will have more and better effect than the high P bloom formulas. When N is reduced, it slows vegetative growth without reducing photosynthesis. Since vegetative growth is limited by a lack of N, and the photosynthetic machinery continues to turn out food, it leaves an expendable surplus for the plant to spend on flowers and fruit. Plants use about 6 times more N than P, so fertilizers that supply more P than N are wasteful and more likely to inhibit blooms (remember that too much P inhibits uptake of Fe and many micro-nutrients - it raises pH unnecessarily as well, which could also be problematic). Popular "bloom-booster" fertilizers like 10-52-10 actually supply about 32x more P than your plant could ever use (in relationship to how much N it uses) and has the potential to wreak all kinds of havoc with your plants.

In a recent conversation with the CEO of Dyna-Gro, he confirmed my long held belief that circumstances would have to be very highly unusual for it to be ever beneficial to use a fertilizer in containers that supplies as much or more P than either N or K. This means that even commonly found 1:1:1 ratios like 20-20-20 or 14-14-14 supply more P than is necessary for best results.

The fact that different species of plants grow in different types of soil where they are naturally found, does not mean that one needs more of a certain nutrient than the other. It just means that the plants have developed strategies to adapt to certain conditions, like excesses and deficiencies of particular nutrients.

Plants that "love" acid soils, e.g., have simply developed strategies to cope with those soils. Their calcium needs are still the same as any other plant and no different from the nutrient requirements of plants that thrive in alkaline soils. The problem for acid-loving plants is that they are unable to adequately limit their calcium uptake, and will absorb too much of it when available, resulting in cellular pH-values that are too high. Some acid-loving plants also have difficulties absorbing Fe, Mn, Cu, or Zn, which is more tightly held in alkaline soils, another reason why they thrive in low pH (acid) soils.

So, If you select a fertilizer that is close in ratio to the concentration of major elements in plant tissues, you are going to be in good shape. Whether the fertilizer is furnished in chemical or organic form matters not a whit to the plant. Ions are ions, but there is one major consideration. Chemical fertilizers are available for immediate uptake while organic fertilizers must be acted on by passing through the gut of micro-organisms to break them down into usable elemental form. Since microorganism populations are affected by cultural conditions like moisture/air levels in the soil, soil pH, fertility levels, temperature, etc., they tend to follow a boom/bust cycle that has an impact on the reliability and timing of delivery of nutrients supplied in organic form, in container culture. Nutrients locked in hydrocarbon chains cannot be relied upon to be available when the plant needs them. This is a particular issue with the immobile nutrients that must be present in the nutrient stream at all times for the plant to grow normally.

What is my approach? I have been very happy with Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 liquid fertilizer. It has all the essential elements in a favorable ratio, and even includes Ca and Mg, which is unusual in soluble fertilizers. Miracle-Gro granular all-purpose fertilizer in 24-8-16 or liquid 12-4-8 are both close seconds and completely soluble, though they do lack Ca and Mg, which you can supply by incorporating lime or by including gypsum and Epsom salts in your fertilizer supplementation program. Ask if you need clarification on this point.

I often incorporate a granular micro-nutrient supplement in my soils when I make them (Micromax) or use a soluble micro-nutrient blend (STEM). I would encourage you to make sure your plants are getting all the micro-nutrients. More readily available than the supplements I use is Earth Juice's 'Microblast'.

When plants are growing robustly, I try to fertilize my plants weakly (pun intended) with a half recommended dose of the concentrate at half the suggested intervals. When plants are growing slowly, I fertilize more often with very weak doses. It is important to realize your soil must drain freely and you must water so a fair amount of water drains from your container each time you water to fertilize this way. Last year, my display containers performed better than they ever have in years past & they were still all looking amazingly attractive at the beginning of Oct when I finally decided to dismantle them because of imminent cold weather. I attribute results primarily to a good soil and a healthy nutrient supplementation program.

What would I recommend to someone who asked what to use as an all-purpose fertilizer for nearly all their container plantings? If you can find it, a 3:1:2 ratio soluble liquid fertilizer (24-8-16, 12-4-8, 9-3-6 are all 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers) that contains all the minor elements would great.

How plants use nutrients - the chart I promised:

I gave Nitrogen, because it is the largest nutrient component, the value of 100. Other nutrients are listed as a weight percentage of N.
N 100
P 13-19 (16) 1/6
K 45-80 (62) 3/5
S 6-9 (8) 1/12
Mg 5-15 (10) 1/10
Ca 5-15 (10) 1/10
Fe 0.7
Mn 0.4
B(oron) 0.2
Zn 0.06
Cu 0.03
Cl 0.03
M(olybden) 0.003
To read the chart: P - plants use 13-19 parts of P or an average of about 16 parts for every 100 parts of N, or 6 times more N than P. Plants use about 45-80 parts of K or an average of about 62 parts for every 100 parts of N, or about 3/5 as much K as N, and so on.

If you're still with me - thanks for reading. It makes me feel like the effort was worth it. ;o) Let me know what you think - please.
AL

Here is a link to the second posting of A Fertilizer Program for Containers

Another link to information about Container Soils- Water Movement and Retention.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 08.31.2013 at 11:58 pm    last updated on: 08.31.2013 at 11:58 pm

RE: Nematodes and my insecticidal soap concoction (Follow-Up #80)

posted by: hey_j on 08.02.2009 at 02:12 pm in Hosta Forum

Kines' article is very interesting and I had copied and saved it but do not know of a link to it!

Haven't seen our 'kines' around much so I will take the liberty of sharing what I saved!

Here's what I have:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Experience with foliar nematodes

My personal observations:

These are just my observations, and should be taken at face value.
Also, this is not intended to introduce you to the problem of foliar
nematodes. If you are unfamiliar with this parasite you will probably want
to search elsewhere for basic information first.


Only a small amount of factual information can be extracted from these
observations, but it might be helpful information in some circumstances.
One of the unknowns that affects many if not all of these observations:
How long can a plant harbor nematodes without showing signs? I might be
pessimistic, but I personally will wait at least two seasons before I decide
one is clear of infestation.

Native Disease
Foliar nematodes are all over the place in central North Carolina, as are
hostas in the garden landscape. A stroll through my neighborhood reveals
that almost every sizable collection has at least one affected plant.
And I believe them to be indigenous based on my discovery of a native
Solomon�s Seal in my back yard that was heavily infested, and located in an
area that made it very unlikely that I brought the nematodes to it from
purchased plants.


Diagnosis
Diagnosis is very easy, and is described in detail elsewhere on the internet.
The pattern of damage is so characteristic that after getting used to seeing
it, you will have no need for direct observation of the nematodes under
magnification; you can tell by simply looking at the leaf. One frequently
asked question is "what am I looking for?". With a good setup, they can actually
be seen with the naked eye (I�m 40 years old with prescription corrected vision),
but are much easier to see with a magnifying glass or jeweler�s loupe. In a
dish of water through magnification, they look like tiny glass threads wiggling
rhythmically like an earthworm. With the naked eye, the worm itself might not
reach the threshold of resolution, but the evil, shimmering movement can be
detected without too much trouble.


Ecology
Even though they spread rather easily, they are probably not quite as
aggressive as one might think. First of all, when looking under magnification
at a badly or even moderately affected leaf, there are hundreds, even thousands
of nematodes present. I use overhead irrigation, and I have had infested plants
next to others that have never shown signs of infestation, so if they very easily
jumped from plant to plant, they certainly had the opportunity and failed. This
reminds me of coral reef ecology, where many of the organisms living there reproduce
by creating perhaps millions of offspring to have a very small number make it to
reproductive age. Even if plucking leaves doesn�t affect the status of the
infested plant, I believe that vigilantly doing so will markedly reduce the chances
of the disease spreading in your garden. I have apparently been able to halt the
spread of nematodes in my garden with this practice.

Boiling Soil
With a caveat against drawing conclusions from experiments with only one subject:
I have removed an infested hosta from its site in the landscape, poured near-boiling
water into and around the hole, then planted a young Paradise Power in the same
soil as soon as it cooled (it took surprisingly long to cool off!). Three full
seasons of growth later, it is a vigorous plant with no signs of infestation.

The Untreated Garden
I can report observations from a completely untreated garden with nematodes.
My father has them in his large hosta collection, but doesn�t care, and does
nothing about them except occasionally pluck the ugly leaves off. The most
important observation I have made is the dramatic variation in the number of affected
leaves on a plant from one year to the next, and it doesn�t seem to be related to
heat or rainfall. One growing season where we had abundant rain was the one where
his infestation was the least apparent! Perhaps the prior year is more
important. Another observation is an apparent threshold that an individual plant
reaches, where the infestation becomes severe and takes the plant over, and
year-to-year variation no longer occurs. The Tiaras and other similar small,
thin substance varieties seem particularly susceptible to being completely overtaken.


Nematode-Free Splits
This is also a very limited experiment, but it appears that you can get a
nematode-free clump from an infested plant, as if only certain parts of the
crown might be infested on a single hosta. I have two plants now that I have
done this with, and the splits remain nematode free. This also implies that
the nematodes might be spreading throughout a single plant the same way it spreads
from one plant to another (splashing from a necrotic leaf to a healthy leaf as
opposed to traveling through the crown). If true, this makes it especially
important to pluck off the infested leaves before they become necrotic, even
if you choose to do nothing else.


Petioles and Scapes, too
Here�s something I can report on with great certainty: A hosta can be infested
with nematodes, yet show up only with brown streaks on the petioles of the leaves.
Often the leaf belonging to this petiole will go on to develop the characteristic
pattern of damage, but not always. I have seen this repeatedly, especially in larger,
thicker leafed varieties such as elegans and Blue Angel. This means that you might
have to look very closely to know that you�ve got an infested plant. Furthermore,
I have tested flower scapes that have brown streaks, and yup - you guessed it � nematodes!
Interestingly, I have tested normal-appearing petioles from obviously infested
leaves on several occasions, and I have yet to find a nematode.


Chemical Treatment
I�m still not ready yet to draw significant conclusions about my experiments
with chemical treatments. The short answer is that there is no quick and
effective cure in anything I have tried. At this time, I have three infested
plants in quarantine pots, and about 5 plants in the landscape (after experiments
with other plants that have now died or have been discarded). The first year
of becoming aware of the problem, I started with both foliage sprays and soil
granules from the local big-box hardware stores, including triazacide and others
whose names I did not document at the time, and they had no apparent effect.
Most of my subsequent experiments have been with the two Bayer systemic products,
one containing disulfoton, and the other containing tebuconazole and imidadoprid
as the active ingredients. One thing I can tell you for sure, their use can cause
stunting of the plant�s growth the following season. I suspect this is due to the
high nitrogen content burning the roots, but I don�t know. In the potted plants,
I used them together in doses consistent with labeling or higher, and at more
frequent intervals, in order to leave no doubt that the dose was adequate. The
first year the plants and the nematodes both returned. A second year of treatment
has the plants dramatically stunted, but with no nematodes so far in two out of
three plants. In the landscape, I have made a similar observation. Some of the
plants are showing no signs of infestation, and some have returned with nematodes,
but at a dramatically reduced level. On paper this might sound promising, but my
overall impression is that with the cost of the products, the effect on the mature
plant size, the uncertainty of complete eradication, and unknown effect on the
environment, IMHO it really isn�t worth it. Except perhaps with one or two prized
specimens in a collection, you�ll be better off discarding the infested plant and
starting over with healthy plants from a reputable source. This is what I have
done for the most part.


Hot Tubbin'
I have never tried the hot water bath (or leaving them in a car in summer with
the windows up). Many others have, and have reported their experience on the
Garden Web hosta forum, and the results have been mixed. It appears that the
threshold for nematode death is close to that of plant cellular death (not surprising),
but it apparently can be effective if done carefully.

In Conclusion
If you have nematodes, don�t fret, you are not alone, and you shouldn�t let it
ruin your enthusiasm for hostas in your garden. All plants have their diseases
and pitfalls, and this is just one of them. It is the way nature always has been,
and always will be. I hope this article is informative and in some way encouraging.
Happy Gardening!


....Kines

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I hope this is what you were looking for!

NOTES:

nematodes
clipped on: 08.28.2013 at 01:28 am    last updated on: 08.28.2013 at 01:29 am

Just ordered a couple of fragrant Tillandsia...

posted by: botaniphile on 05.22.2013 at 01:17 am in Fragrant Plants Forum

I didn't even know of the existence of fragrant bromeliads until I read The Evening Garden, and now I've gone and ordered a Tillandsia duratii and a Tillandsia diaguitensis! There's tons of Spanish moss around here (who knew they also produce fragrant flowers?) and I've always been fascinated with it since I found out its a live plant and not the leftovers of something that had died :).

Both of these are supposed to be very fragrant and easy to grow (esp. here in zone 9), so I am pretty excited about them. They're also really cheap, so for all you people with a greenhouse, this might be an interesting addition to your collection!

I ordered them from Tropiflora, a Florida nursery mentioned in aforementioned book and also one I recognized from plant sales at USF's botanical gardens.

Sorry for the long winded post, but I'm excited!

I also have basically no experience with Tillandsia and would appreciate tips if anyone has any :)

Stephanie

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 08.10.2013 at 10:44 am    last updated on: 08.10.2013 at 04:00 pm

RE: Soaker hose placement (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: ken_adrian on 08.05.2013 at 02:36 pm in Hosta Forum

my point... if you have them.. use them up

but if you are going to invest in replacement ... go higher quality ... the drip irrigation i have.. has lasted a decade...

initial upfront cost would be offset by repeated replacement costs ...

i still cant remember the name of the stuff i have.. but its the same as the stuff at the link ...

the key is that each emitter allows a specific amount of water .. across the entire length ... ina given time... e.g. so if it drip .25 gals per hour.. you can put down one gal in 4 hours .... BUT!!! .... what you soil needs... can only be determined by you...

ah ha.. i use TECHLINE by netafim .. such as at this link:

http://www.sprinklersupplystore.com/Netafim-Techline-CV-Drip-Tubing-s/675.htm

check this out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCSYeCyuM3c

and just so there is no confusion.. the emitters are built into the line ... mine is fully winterproof ...

i can offer much assistance... but i am not willing to simply type a thesis on such..

if you are interested in going in this direction... i will help thru GW posts ...

and if i ever fail to come back and answer ... just use my members page.. to send me a link back to the post i lost ...

finally... ALL mine is above ground.. and above the mulch .... after a short while.. you ignore it ... and any garden visitors are intrigued by it... its something to talk about ... but the reason i do such.. is ambient moisture... i need some humidity for the plant.. on my hot sand ... i can really see a difference .... as to leaf surface damage.. if i bury the lines completely ...

and for those of you who use sprinklers.. ponder this.. you lose maybe 50% of what your sprinkler shoots into the air .. by evaporation.... so you are paying to water the air.... you can deliver more water.. more efficiently.. w/o the waste cost ... and that should be considered in your upfront cost ...

let me see if i can find a picture of it laying on top.. and very frankly.. ask you if you would have fixated on it.. rather than the plant display ... and be honest ...


ken
 photo Patioconifers20090904_3293.jpg

Here is a link that might be useful: link

NOTES:

spitters and emitters and drip irrigation
clipped on: 08.05.2013 at 08:49 pm    last updated on: 08.05.2013 at 08:51 pm

RE: Planted too deep? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: brucebanyaihsta on 08.02.2013 at 10:34 pm in Hosta Forum

It is often a very poorly done too deep planting job that knocks a good hosta plant back, and can eventually stunt or even kill it.

In potted hosta it is terrible planting procedure but common with current high speed potting machines and unskilled help.

If your hosta plant has any dirt up over emerging eyes or there is dirt all the way up on the growth stem, it is simply planted too deep.

How to tell?
Lift the plant out of the ground or pot (after loosening the soil and roots) and you will see a visual point in the stem which is just above the first crown or crowns. That should be at ground surface level.

Why I don't like mulch - just visited a garden that I installed for some one 10 years ago - this Spring a landscape service "with Knowledge about hosta " came in and spread 2-3 inches mulch directly on the very large mature plants. They are now "planted too deep"

Except for the 35+ inches of rain we have had here, those plants would be suffering more. With the rains they have grown vertically but next year will be a problem. I may walk away from the garden, it will be too much work to fix.

Many slow growing hosta are planted too deep. I have many plants that have their roots in the Spring jumping out of the ground but they can be covered with just a small amount of soil and do fine.

I often recommend lifting a stunted plant that is slow growing and give it some break-up energy ( Ken referred to it as a thrashing it on the sidewalk, but I used whatever rigid structure is around, to loosen the root ball). Then replant it knowing where the crown is, so it won't be too deep.

My big bed of the heavy blooming 'Aphrodite' does not like to be buried deep - won't bloom if it is, same as plantaginea.

Bruce

NOTES:

Planting depth for hosta
clipped on: 08.02.2013 at 10:39 pm    last updated on: 08.02.2013 at 10:41 pm

How to turn lawn into garden bed?

posted by: chueh on 08.21.2008 at 08:59 pm in Soil Forum

I am going to use some lawn spaces and convert them into garden beds. I just bought a magic auger, about 2.5" diameter. I thought that it would be sort of labor free to dig holes. However, since the Georgia has hard red clay soil, my drill which was attached to the auger smoked last time when using it even on bare soil.

What's the best way to take off a piece of lawn? Is shoveling the best way? Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks

NOTES:

lasagna gardening
clipped on: 07.28.2013 at 06:03 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2013 at 06:03 pm

hosta and a golden path

posted by: woodyoak on 07.25.2013 at 12:52 pm in Hosta Forum

I'm a non-collector who values hostas for the many sizes and colors that can be used to such great effect in my shady backyard garden. I thought you guys might enjoy these pictures about the 'golden path' section I've been developing lately in the garden (although the hostas don't stand out as much in the pictures as they do when seen in person ....)

Some context... View from the patio to the shed; I'm trying to develop a 'golden' section at the start of the path that leads under the pines from a bit to the right of the shed:
Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com

The lead-in to the golden area is silvery so, while there are hostas there, they are green. The mauvey flowers at the moment though do work nicely across the path from the silver brunneras:
Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com

It's going to take a while for things to grow and fill in - especially the 'Prairie Fire' and Golden Shadows' dogwoods that will - hopefully! - one day hide the neighbour's not-so-attractive shed! The 'Sum and Substance' hostas are much more dramatic and glowing when seen in person than in this picture:
Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com

You can see one of them a bit better in this view taken from the bend in the path looking back out towards the lawn from under the trees:
Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com

I have a question for you folk about the hosta in this picture.... This is looking towards the golden path area from the SE:
Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com
You can see that the hosta is outgrowing its space and encroaching on the path at the edge of the lawn and the intersecting path past the fern. The hosta was actually planted there to be a sort of a traffic circle as there is also a path to its right and one crossing behind it! I need to take some chunks out of it next spring to rein in its size (I have no idea what the variety is....) In the hostas for deep shade tread, I was interested to read that the recommended ones for deep shade are green ones. This one is a nice green - do you think in would be a good candidate to put in a very shady corner that needs a hosta?

NOTES:

Lovely destination pathway.
clipped on: 07.26.2013 at 11:37 am    last updated on: 07.26.2013 at 11:38 am

Flowers

posted by: mbug on 07.23.2013 at 11:26 pm in Hosta Forum

Diana Remembered

NOTES:

whole thread is pictures of flower buds on hosta. It is awesome!
clipped on: 07.25.2013 at 01:31 am    last updated on: 07.25.2013 at 01:32 am

RE: Rain last night and this morning didn't do the hostas much go (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: mosswitch on 07.21.2013 at 01:45 pm in Hosta Forum

Moc, there is a place in Florida that carries the spot spitters. I think they sell retail. We ran a drip irrigation line, attached spaghetti tubing and plugged in the spot spitters, then stuck them into the ground under or between plants. The reason we are familiar with them is because we used them at the nursery to water the tree stock in pots, Upon thinking about it, couldn't see any reason they wouldn't work with drip irrigation hose, tried it and it worked. They deliver a lot more water faster than the regular drip irrigation spinners and drippers.

You can find a lot more information about them and how to put together a system, just google John Deere spot spitters.

Here is a link that might be useful: spot spitters

NOTES:

irrigating the hosta patch
clipped on: 07.23.2013 at 08:07 am    last updated on: 07.23.2013 at 08:08 am

RE: fragrant blooms....at last at twilight time (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: ci_lantro on 07.17.2013 at 07:53 am in Hosta Forum

I think Doubled Up gets its name because it's a tetraploid sport of plantaginea, a diploid. i.e., it has four sets of chromosones vs the usual set of two.

AFAIK, Fujibotan, Venus & Aphrodite are the only double-bloom hostas.

All of the flower pix of Doubled Up, that I've seen, have been single blooms.

NOTES:

Doubled Up is diploid, where the "double" comes in, not indicating double flowers.
clipped on: 07.17.2013 at 10:29 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2013 at 10:30 pm

RE: Hosta Blight (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ctopher_mi on 07.03.2013 at 09:19 pm in Hosta Forum

Sorry to hear that it is that bad, but there is some hope.

#1 - there is absolutely no reason to dig up the plants. This fungus is only present in the top couple inches of soil, and does not get carried by the plant itself. You will want to scoop up all the goop and scoop up as much soil from around the crown as possible and throw that into the trash, then top with fresh soil. While there may still be fungus spores traveling around the garden you will want to eliminate as much of it as possible by hand, especially those orange spheres.

#2 - treat all the plants and the bed with a fungicide specifically labeled for southern blight. There is a bayer product that says it treats it, but use it at the highest recommended strength for best results (if it doesn't have the fertilizer added to it then personally I would use it two times and really soak the crowns and the area). There are other fungicides that work better but they are commercial products. Hopefully someone can list those here, because I don't have it written down myself. They can get a little expensive, but still a lot easier than digging and pitching. But in the long run the expense could be worth it as it is possible to eradicate southern blight with regular curative and preventative treatments.

So please don't go to all the trouble of digging anything out. That is never necessary as the fungus doesn't go below the soil and is never actually in the plant itself.

And even if you sprayed nothing at all, and just cleaned it up and let that area dry out, the hostas would likely come back fine, especially if they are older clumps.

I hope that helps, and if I have time I'll try to find out the other fungicides that work.

Good luck.

Chris

NOTES:

Southern Blight
clipped on: 07.03.2013 at 11:12 pm    last updated on: 07.03.2013 at 11:12 pm

RE: What is the story of June? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: idiothe on 06.20.2013 at 03:29 pm in Hosta Forum

I'll give it a go from memory - somebody probably can access a printed version and correct me...

It is a darned unlikely story.

Back in 1961, Eric Smith made a hosta cross that was highly unlikely. He took the very earliest tardiflora flowers... which typically wouldn't set seed in England... and pollinated it from a sieboldiana that was re-blooming. So... most typically that pollen and that flower would never have met... and even if they had, the flower wouldn't typically set seed.

He ripened the seeds in a solution of sugar and water. He got about 30 plants out of this and 14 were blue. He named that generation 1. The name "tardiana" was invented for the cross of two species, tardiflora and sieboldiana.

He was able to cross those blues with each other to make a series of generations. They call it a grex because the plants were crossed and recrossed, mixing up the same genes over and over in search of the best combinations.

Halcyon came out of the first generation. Many other great blues resulted from those crosses.

Fast forward to 1979. Tissue culturing of plants for commercial reasons is just taking off. A new company, Neo-plants Ltd starts up in Leeds, England.

At some point, they are tissue culturing Halcyon. When you tissue culture a plant, you go through them several times as they grow, culling (pulling out and destroying) the plants that are not "true to type." There are some powerful chemicals involved in cloning, and some oddballs occur.

There was an intern or part-time or somesuch employee... as I remember the story, she was 18 or 19. Her mother liked gardening, so the young woman asked if she could take some of the culls home for her mother. Her mom's name was June. As one of these culls grew, they realized they liked this odd sport of Halcyon that had the chartreuse center that turned to yellow and had some color-overlay streaking... very pretty plant.

I'm hazy on how it was that Neo got the plant back, but they produced the first June plants and it took off from there.

Of course, now we know that Halcyon and many of its offspring are prone to sporting.

For example, if Halcyon sports to a plant without the wax gene, and is a shiny green instead of blue... that one is probably Devon Green (aka Canadian Sheild, I think, and at least one more name...) From Devon Green we got a yellow-centered plant - June Fever. June Fever sported to a tetraploid, Justine.

Halcyon sported to a white-edged plant... El Nino... and to one that starts out with a yellow margin that eventually turns to cream or white - First Frost.

The story of June's mother could go on and on... Halcyon has so many interesting sports. But June herself turned out to be an amazing mother as well... Hugo's database of sports currently shows 21 named progeny and in turn, those have resulted in nine more named sports. (BTW - you will find June Fever listed as a June sport, but I believe the real story is that it came out of Devon Green.)

As long as I'm at it... I'll mention a few of my favorites from the Halcyon clan.

Halcyon - still a great blue hosta

First Generation:
June
Blue Ivory
Devon Green (want a really fine looking green?)
El Nino (hey - why doesn't Hugo's database list El Nino?)
First Frost

Second Generation
June Fever
Touch of Class
Olympic Sunrise (an oddball... out of June's sibling, Katherine Lewis, it has significantly larger leaves with subtle slow coloring-up like its parent and like Paradise Joyce.)

and Third Generation... I really like
Justine
Teatime

all of that because Eric Smith fertilized that unlikely flower with that unlikely pollen. He was never able to set seed on species tardiflora again.

(note: I borrowed heavily from a description Bob Solberg wrote about the origin of the tardianas.)

NOTES:

History of the June family
clipped on: 06.20.2013 at 04:38 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2013 at 04:39 pm

RE: Is there a giant orange aphid with black legs? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: tsugajunkie on 06.18.2013 at 10:33 pm in Hosta Forum

Not sure of all the instars they go through, but a number of pix at the link. As the link states:

"They are generalist predators feeding on a wide range of soft-bodied prey in garden and fields such as mosquitoes, flies, earthworms, cucumber beetles and caterpillars (fall armyworm, rootworm etc.)."

tj

Edit: Are the legs banded like the pix at the link?

Here is a link that might be useful: Various instar pix

This post was edited by tsugajunkie on Tue, Jun 18, 13 at 22:36

NOTES:

the link and the quote....thanks
clipped on: 06.19.2013 at 01:08 am    last updated on: 06.19.2013 at 01:08 am

Winter forced hostas

posted by: mosswitch on 06.18.2013 at 07:19 pm in Hosta Forum

Somebody asked something a while back about hostas that had been forced in the winter, I forget just what the question was, maybe about buying them.I may have chimed into that saying that I had done it before, and they were fine.

Well! Let me share what happened this year, with the strange weather and all. The nursery that grew them for a lawn and garden show in February had been forcing them all winter. I had bought four of them in late February at our hosta society auction, in full beautiful growth, as I have done before, kept them indoors until April when I felt it was finally safe to put them in the ground. They were still pretty and perky. Shortly thereafter, we had more cool weather, then a couple of almost-freezing nights, Two of them, Rubies Ruffles, and Silver Bay, started to go downhill. I was a bit distressed but figured they would perk up again when it warmed up. Then snow the first of May, and that did it. They lost every leaf.

But when I examined them, expecting to see the crowns turned to mush, I discovered nice, fat eyes poking up--the darn things had gone dormant!

Ok, now what? Are they going to sit there all summer and next winter before they leaf out again? I kept an eye on them, and now with summer finally settling in and 90 degree days, Ruby Ruffles has begun unfurling, with Silver Bay not far behind, just as if it were spring.

So a long winter of being forced, uncommonly cool weather that fooled them into thinking it was fall, and dormancy set in.

Funny thing was, the other two didn't do that, and look just fine, even got a new flush of growth.

So there you are, the tale of what can happen to hostas forced in the winter.

Sandy

NOTES:

winter forced hosta...
clipped on: 06.19.2013 at 12:52 am    last updated on: 06.19.2013 at 12:53 am

RE: Name that pest (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: Babka on 06.16.2013 at 12:28 pm in Hosta Forum

Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew (spinosad) works with very well. Certified for organic gardening, and it doesn't leave a cloudy residue on the leaves. You can get just a little spray bottle and spray the leaves in the immediate vicinity of the damage.

-Babka

NOTES:

Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew ...spinosad
for anthracnose.
clipped on: 06.16.2013 at 07:33 pm    last updated on: 06.16.2013 at 07:34 pm

RE: question about generations (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: steve_mass on 06.10.2013 at 09:31 pm in Hosta Forum

Technically speaking the "first generation" sometimes referred to as f1, is the first set of progeny from a particular plant. If the parent plant is a species plant such as H. pycnophylla, then the f1 would be a hybrid. An example of a pycnophylla f1 would be Gilt by Association or Frisian Pride.

Fire Island is an f1 plant from H. longipes f. hypoglauca. So it is the first generation of a species plant.

Steve

NOTES:

Hosta f1 generations
clipped on: 06.11.2013 at 12:19 am    last updated on: 06.11.2013 at 12:20 am

Looks like bleeding veins to me...advice please

posted by: ConnieMay on 06.08.2013 at 04:25 pm in Hosta Forum

I want it to be anything but HVX...

NOTES:

Tobacco rattle virus pictures on hosta
clipped on: 06.10.2013 at 05:42 pm    last updated on: 06.10.2013 at 05:43 pm

Almost Heaven

posted by: Dougald on 06.09.2013 at 08:09 pm in Hosta Forum

This weekend, I had the privilege of seeing Don Budd's personal garden. Don is the proprietor of Budd's Gardens, probably the premier hosta retailer in the Ottawa area.

I took a few pics of his collection of more than 400 mature hostas set out in a garden that he refers to as almost heaven.

Photobucket doesnt seem to like me - thinks I want to upload from my camera ... so I will post the pics one at a time using browse starting with an overview or two and then just a few closer shots to give your the idea of this wonderful garden.

Doug

NOTES:

He has a pergola that is just what we need in our garden to create some shade. I copied the photo for my DHusband to go by.
clipped on: 06.10.2013 at 04:21 pm    last updated on: 06.10.2013 at 04:22 pm

Addressing overcrowding

posted by: thisismelissa on 06.08.2013 at 08:25 pm in Hosta Forum

In so many ways, I feel like some of the newer members of the forum (Gesila comes to mind) are me.... just a few years 'younger' in your hosta journey. I went gangbusters for a few years, adding 100+ more hostas to my collections for 2-3 years straight.

I look at Gesila's pics and see the hostas clearly bridged into their 'leaping' stage and really filling out. Overcrowding seems on the near horizon. A place I was at about 4 years ago.

I sooooo remember the more 'senior' members of the forum saying, "you're going to have an overcrowding problem in a few years" and thinking "I'll worry about it when I actually have a problem." As someone newer to hosta collecting, it seems far off to have to worry about a hosta that could approach 5 feet or more in width. So, why would I want to plant this tiny 1-eye giant 6 feet away from its neighbor? 18 inches or 2 feet was fine.

In year 4 of my journey, I had to start assessing a plan and in year 5, I had to start executing a plan to address the overcrowding.

This is year 7 for me and I'm still having to address overcrowding, as the giant size hostas are finally starting to mature.

I have many hostas that are on the order of 4-5 feet across, and they're not even completely finished unfurling. And those are almost fully engulfing their neighbors. Abba Dabba Do, for instance, is almost completely overshadowing a 3 foot wide Antioch.

It's such a challenge to address overcrowding, since when I planted these hostas as 1 gallon plants, they were all roughly the same size and I was able to make sure there was a good arrangement of variegation with solids sprinkled in. I'm losing that flow now.

If y'all take away anything from this, especially those of you who are newbies (relatively) is that you plan for mature size, if possible... consider where you're going to be in 5 years.... time really does fly when you're gardening!

NOTES:

whole thread is great. SAVE IT
clipped on: 06.09.2013 at 01:19 pm    last updated on: 06.09.2013 at 01:19 pm

RE: What is this stuff? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: steve_mass on 06.04.2013 at 09:24 pm in Hosta Forum

Using Bayer Advance Tree and Shrub insecticide is way overkill for aphids. The active ingredient is Imidocloprid a synthetic chemical that is systemic. That means it translocates throughout all parts of the plant including the flowers and the pollen. Bees collect the pollen and bring it back to their hive. Imidocloprid acts like mustard gas on bees. It's a nerve agent. The result is that Imidocloprid as well as other neonicotinoids are a contributing factor to colony collapse disorder in honey bees.

Aphids, including Wooly Aphids are easily controlled with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Both of these are much more benign and have less effect on non target species. The point is to use the least intrusive method that will work on the problem. Please read the link below.

Oh yeah, I know people do it, but using a product "off label" is against Federal law.

Steve

Here is a link that might be useful: UC-IPM online Wooly Aphids

NOTES:

killing wooly aphids
clipped on: 06.05.2013 at 01:33 am    last updated on: 06.05.2013 at 01:33 am

RE: Inventory Day! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: thisismelissa on 06.01.2013 at 04:41 pm in Hosta Forum

DONE DONE DONE!

I can't believe I finished inventory in 2 weeks. NEVER would that have happened on paper.

Ok, I have an android phone with an app that I bought for $5. It's not intended for gardening, though with a bit of adaptation, it works perfectly for what I need. Hubby kept stalling on writing something for me, so I figured $5 was worth it! I had approached the developer about adaptations specific for gardeners. He did agree, but it never came to fruition. So, I continue to use the basic version.

Each individual plant has their own record. I can have up to 10 photos per record that can either come from my photo gallery or taken with the phone's camera, on the fly. In each record, I have the plant's name, location, identifying number, purchase date, source and in the notes section, I have the eye counts or any other information about pest or disease issues.

I've not input all of the past years' data yet.... nor have I taken "school pictures" of each, just yet, but I'm well on my way.... about 15% of them have their school photos taken.

I can sort the entries by name or location. So this means that I can have my list of hostas with me all the time when I am out and about shopping.... and keep me from buying a duplicate (like I did last week before I was done with my inventory).

I'm thrilled with this system. But I will continue to use my spreadsheet as my main data repository. I feel more confident with that technology right now. But I can export my phone's list to use to update my spreadsheet.

Oh, side note, I'll still use my method of taking pictures and assigning numbers them in some graphics software. I assign numbers based on location and this is really the best way I've figured to make this happen.

I should also add, I'm cataloging my other perennials as well so that if I need to buy another of a particular variety, I'll know what I have.

NOTES:

Android app for inventory of hosta
clipped on: 06.01.2013 at 04:55 pm    last updated on: 06.01.2013 at 04:56 pm

RE: something's eating my hostas (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Babka on 05.31.2013 at 12:11 am in Hosta Forum

Cutworms???? During the day, scratch the soil around the plant about 1" deep and see if you find those UGLY gray 1/4" thick worm like things that come up at night and gobble. You might try going out at night with a flashlight and see who the culprit is. I always look on the undersides of leaves first to see if I can locate a caterpillar first. Look under EVERY leaf, because once they gobble one leaf, they get go to another leaf. Sometimes earwigs are the bad guys, which you can trap by leaving a wet rolled up newspaper next to the crown of the plant.

If you cannot find a critter, get some Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew (Spinosad). It is a spray that is approved for organic gardening, and will kill chewing thingies.

-Babka

NOTES:

Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew
clipped on: 05.31.2013 at 01:05 pm    last updated on: 05.31.2013 at 01:05 pm

RE: A Budding Pothead? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: Babka on 05.05.2013 at 10:00 pm in Hosta Forum

I use 1/2" x 1/2" x 3" to 6"long sticks. Sometimes if I find redwood stakes in 3/4" width, I cut those up into whatever length I like. I have a few 2X2 sticks that I use to raise a pot a little higher than the rest, but the whole idea is to NOT see them under the pot, so the length is just short of the bottom of the pot. You can make any sort of mini platform out of 2x4 or 2x6 lumber to lift a pot higher for groupings.

You need something that lifts the pot off wherever it is sitting, won't leave rust marks, is easy to move around, and doesn't detract from your pots.

Have fun. With pots you can pick your "hosta of the day/week" and feature it right where you get to gaze upon it with your mouth hanging open, wondering how could a leaf be so incredible beautiful.

I'm sure you will enjoy being a Pothead.

-Babka

NOTES:

Lifters for hosta pots etc.
clipped on: 05.06.2013 at 12:54 am    last updated on: 05.06.2013 at 12:54 am

RE: Well, 'Eye Declare' !!! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: mctavish6 on 04.22.2013 at 12:44 pm in Hosta Forum

Here are probably more pictures of Eye Declare than you wanted to see. It is one of my brightest yellows in the spring. Sometimes the color is hard to capture but it really stands out. It has grown amazingly well for me unlike Sea Fire which is still limping along. On the other hand my sisters Sea Fire (which mine is a divided from) is enormous. Notice in the pictures how big Eye Declare is compared to Liberty.

I think this plant would quickly go to green if it weren't in some sun. Your southern sun would be a lot different than mine but it will need at least some if it's going to keep the varigation until the end of the season.

Eye Declare 5-16-12 (33)

5-26-12 (24)

6-1565~1

7-25-12 (256)

8-29-12 (78)

Eye Declare 9-22-12 (93)

NOTES:

series of Eye Declare photos from McTavis
clipped on: 04.22.2013 at 01:12 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2013 at 01:12 pm

RE: My hostas are here and I've never done this (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: ctopher_mi on 04.15.2013 at 07:22 pm in Hosta Forum

I'll be the dissenting opinion here on soaking and say that they don't need to be soaked, but I definitely agree, do not trim the roots.

Your hostas just came out of a cooler/cold storage and are not quite ready to grow. In a few days they will start to wake up, but until then they really don't need water. Dormant hostas store what moisture they need and can only hold so much. When they don't have leaves they have absolutely no way to get rid of excess water, but the roots will keep trying to soak it up until cell damage starts to occur, if you soak too long.

If they are shrivelled up and dried out then yes, soak them for a little while (30 minutes to an hour is usually plenty) but if they are plump roots just plant them, water good to let them know it is time to wake up, then wait for them to emerge. If you get regular rains that is enough water in the meantime.

As to the crown depth, hostas grow from underground rhizomes and new root growth emerges from above the old, so the roots should always be underground. If your soil is well aerated (loose and light - not compacted) then ideally the dormant eyes should also never be showing after planting. If it is really hard and compact you should improve the soil, but if you can't, then just plant about a half inch below the surface, so at least the roots are covered with soil. The rot problems people have with plants that are too deep is not really a depth issue but a lack of oxygen issue. Keep your soil well aerated and they will happily grow below ground.

Good luck!

Chris

NOTES:

good information from a pro..
clipped on: 04.15.2013 at 09:48 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2013 at 09:48 pm

RE: What's the deal with photobucket? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: Ludisia on 03.12.2013 at 10:45 pm in Hosta Forum

Mocc, that someone was me . . . I organize all my photos by name.

I create a folder directly on my external hard drive with the name of the hosta, then I add two subfolders under it. One for Photos and the other for Data File.

Hehe . . . it goes on . . . under the subfolder Photos I then break it down by year . . . then under year I break it down by month . . . and then you finally are able to see thumbnails of actual picture files.

Each picture file has three components in the name . . . where I acquired it from, date photo was taken, and the name of the hosta in the photo.

To counteract this madness . . . I also keep a separate file folder with ALL pictures regardless of what they are . . . the only organization this folder gets is a subfolder for the year . . . I don't mix years.

One folder serves to act as a catch all . . . the others as more of a database . . . I am not savvy with Microsoft Access so I cannot create a proper database like I would prefer.

But my home grown method works for me . . . I certainly don't expect it to work for anyone else. This is the great thing about all the resources we have nowadays. There are a million different ways to reach the same goal. :)

Ludi

P.S. Make sure to post when Miss Elegans wakes up . . . I know your southern bells should be stirring soon, if not already.

NOTES:

Keep this for an alternate method to organize hosta photos.
clipped on: 03.15.2013 at 09:45 pm    last updated on: 03.15.2013 at 09:46 pm

RE: hosting holidays in a small house (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: nancy_in_mich on 12.10.2012 at 11:36 pm in Smaller Homes Forum

I purchased two 8 ft banquet tables for precisely this. They are more sturdy and even the narrow ones can seat people on both sides if the food is served buffet style. I moved everything out of the living room except the couch, then lined up the two tables and used all my wooden and folding chairs, had a few people bring chairs from home. For a long meal, real chairs are more comfortable if you have tall or big people in the family. You can rent tables and chairs if needed.

Tips: use a lot of slow cookers to keep food hot, and get them going early (warm water in them until their contents show up with a guest). Put hot food in them unless you have a couple of hours for them to heat the food. Use big coffee carafes (the ones that look like white ceramic but are really plastic thermos containers) to hold gravy at the table. Hot gravy will rewarm the food. If cooking a turkey or ham, use a counter-top roaster and save the oven for side dishes and rolls. Every time you open that door, it slows down the big meat dish and it will never get done! Say yes to anybody who wants to load the dishwasher and get a load done before desert. Don't let dogs lick the foil roasting pan full of drippings - pancreatitis is bad for all involved.

Have someone bring a lot of disposable gladware and send a lot of leftovers home. (My sister would start saving coupons for this months in advance.) You can take that job, as others clear the table. You can sit at the table and ask Aunt Sue if she wants green bean casserole and creamed corn with her roast, put her containers in a bag and have someone run it out to her car. That way, the food is OUT OF YOUR WAY before the company has left. It keeps kids busy running things out to cars, and nobody can forget their goodies. It will be colder there than on your counters.

Put leftovers you are keeping in meal-sized containers and freeze them if there is too much for the next day or two. Ditch bones and carcasses unless you have a proven track record of actually making the soup that you SAY you are going to make with them. Or send carcasses home with a person with a proven soup track record. Make a lunch date at their house for next week!

NOTES:

Excellent list for managing the holiday dinners.
clipped on: 12.12.2012 at 03:21 pm    last updated on: 12.12.2012 at 03:21 pm

RE: hostas discolored..fungus? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: bkay2000 on 10.01.2012 at 06:39 pm in Hosta Forum

It could be a fungus. It could be anthracnose. You could spray it with a any of several fungicides (Greenlight Systemic Fungicide, Bordeaux Fungicide, Mancozeb plant fungicide, maneb Garden Fungicide or Daconil). Be sure and clean up all the dead leaves at the end of the season. That way it won't winter over in your hosta bed.

bkay

NOTES:

note names of the fungicides for future reference
clipped on: 10.02.2012 at 01:31 am    last updated on: 10.02.2012 at 01:32 am

RE: Is This HVX? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: jonnyb023 on 09.08.2012 at 11:35 am in Hosta Forum

All viruses are terminal. It really doesn't matter which it is once you have established it is a virus.

I see no need for expensive tests, especially HVX tests which only tell you that the plant has or has not been infected with HVX. It leaves the question of virus infection unanswered or even if it is a virus. A $50 lab test will give you an answer; but the answer should be determinable (word?) with observation and, in the case of nematodes inexpensive testing.

"Anthracnose can be diagonosed with brown spots / streaks and cancor like spots. This can be treated with a fungicide.

Nematodes can be detected by tearing a leaf and placing it in a clear glass dish for 10 minutes to 1/2 hours. Backlighting the dish will show nematodes, if they are there. The treatment is to either remove the infected plant and all others within 6 feet...or wait until February and dig up the roots and place them in 130 degree tap water in the kitchen sink for 10 minutes and pot the plant up and replant in August. Nematodes do not live in soil so no problem putting anything back in the same spot. Another alterantive is to do a lot of spraying to kill them, but it will take a long time and a lot of diligence as spraying will not kill the eggs. Or some people just live with them. I think I would go with the continuous spraying first and "cooking" if that wasn't effective. "Living with them" is not appealing to me.

Failing the observations / tests for Anthracnose and nematodes you probably have a virus. Spray (the entire area) with insecticide to prevent spread of non-HVX viruses which can be transmitted by insects. Viruses are all terminal and the best thing to do next is paint the hosta leaves with glyphosate to kill the tissue (hosta) which is necessary for virus survival. I would wait until Spring to remove the hosta as it may take a month or more for the roots to die completely. Instinctively digging the infected plant out while it is alive is the very worst approach. It can immediately spread the virus or any remenants of the root or crown in the soil can and will spread the disease to any plant that has a cut or torn leaf or root.

In the Spring, dig out the remains of the dead, virus sterile roots and plant more hostas or something else."

Jon


NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.11.2012 at 10:32 pm    last updated on: 09.11.2012 at 10:32 pm

RE: RIP Mr. Kuk (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: don_r on 08.18.2012 at 09:52 pm in Hosta Forum

Where can I go to find all of Mr. Kuk's introductions?


First of all, you can go to the Hosta Registry and do a search by using the Hybridizer's name. This will list all of the cultivars which were registered under Bob Kuk's name. There are 17 introductions listed, as of November 2011.

Secondly, you can look up "Bob Kuk" and "Kuk's Forest Nursery" in the index of The Hostapedia (page 1065) to see all the cultivars that are referenced. These will include both registered and non-registered plants.

Thirdly, you can go to the website of Kuk's Forest Nursery which is posted here, click on "Plant Lists", and then click on "Collections" to view the Kuk's Forest Nursery introductions.

Fourthly, you can go to the MyHostas Database, select "Originator" in the search field, enter "Kuk" and click "Search". This will list all of the Kuk hostas entered into the MyHostas Database.

Lastly, you can go to the Lemke Database, click on "Intros", then look up "Kuk" under the "jkl" index.

NOTES:

keep the sources for future reference.
clipped on: 08.19.2012 at 09:31 am    last updated on: 08.19.2012 at 09:31 am

crown rot and southern blight Sclerotium Rolfsii

posted by: esther_opal on 05.01.2007 at 01:49 pm in Hosta Forum

Crown Rot is the result of a diseased or stressed plant under attack by a host of organisms leading to the mushie condition we call crown rot.

Southern Blight or Sclerotium Rolfsii is a group of related soil borne organisms which are a bit more specific leading to something similar to crown rot. Southern Blight ususally appears in summer when temperatures reach high 80's or above. It also seems to appear after rains and high temperatures. Treatment is 10% household bleach or 1% by volume as a drench of the plant and soil. Since it is soil borne it will move down a slope and reappear next year in the general area so treating the whole area is proper.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 08.11.2012 at 10:32 pm    last updated on: 08.11.2012 at 10:34 pm

RE: Plantaginea flowers not opening (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: brucebanyaihsta on 08.07.2012 at 10:59 pm in Hosta Forum

All,

In thinking about this thread, I recalled a little known fact from earlier (pre-tissue culture propagation) days. Those days when most cultivars were hand-divided, not tc.

Back in the early 1980's when we needed plantaginea divisions for my mother's nursery sales, we would often ask those people we could if they would sell their mature blooming plantaginea clumps for $$.

As gardening friends and a way to make some money to buy some new hosta cultivars from Michigan's Hosta Lady Pauline Banyai!

Often they would have an old bed (very overgrown) or a long row which had "been there years".

Something like $0.25 -0.50 per division; old mature clumps would be purchased for $4-5 and we would then dig and divide, line out in the garden for a year before potting up for sale.

I am remembering HOW MANY of those clumps were growing in solid clay - which was a bummer to dig and transport and then to wash off the roots to divide carefully.

Now I wonder: did they bloom heavy because they were socked in moist Michigan clay or did they grow well into the clay because they grow slow and the clay kept the plants growing during high summer heat and drought!

I also recall very wet clay when digging those clumps, but remember these were all old clumps. Obviously they liked their soil moisture levels high!

Bruce

NOTES:

clay soil and lots of moisture....sounds like my yard....
clipped on: 08.08.2012 at 01:05 am    last updated on: 08.10.2012 at 11:21 am

RE: Tell me about plantagenia (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: ken_adrian on 04.26.2012 at 07:45 am in Hosta Forum

historically known as the AUGUST lily.. of which it is not a lily ... as it blooms mid august

one of the first ever collected.. and grown as a conservatory plant for decades in england [mid 19th century???] ... [wonder how it got its cold period that way]

one of the VERY FEW .. with a true white flower ... most others have some hint of purple immediately upon opening... which will fade to white immediately ...

to me.. its fragrance is reminiscent of gardenia ...

genetically .. it is thought to be mom .. to ALL OTHER FRAGRANT hosta ...

its prime ID characteristic.. is its 6 inch flowers ... and its progeny.. can NOT replicate the 6 inch.. and immediately .. they fall in size to 3 inches ... [whats that mean genetically ... hmmmm.... its not a dominant gene????]

the flowers open at night.. and therefore are pollinated by night bugs ... hence a good reason for the scent ... so if you wanted to try to do some crosses.. you would have to be out there at sunset.. not at dawn ... and up here in MI.. needing 90 days for the seed to ripen.. you are hard pressed to accomplish such ... before they are frosted to the ground ...

can take full sun.. up here in MI ... subject to enough water ... one should presume.. the further south you go ... the chancier that proposition gets ... but for sure.. it needs a lot of light for those big flowers ...

i cant think of anything else right now.. oh i know.. all the claimed double and triple flowered versions.. are a WASTE OF MONEY ... as they only flower.. ONCE A DECADE... if you are lucky ...

apparently i do have a few thoughts on this one.. lol ... got most of it from schmids old tome 'The Genus Hosta' .. his most recent update is at the link in PDF form ... let me know if i mis-remembered anything ...

ken

Photobucket

Here is a link that might be useful: pdf link

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 08.06.2012 at 09:54 am    last updated on: 08.06.2012 at 09:54 am

27 Aphrodite bloom scapes and blooms

posted by: brucebanyaihsta on 08.03.2012 at 10:03 pm in Hosta Forum

This is the photo update on my Aphrodite bed blooming, finally after waiting 25 years.

Yes, I bought these plants that long ago from Alex Summers in bloom, so I know what they are capable of.

Now, after a very hot summer, in full sun they have full size double blooms and many of them.

There are currently 27 bloom scapes with heavy buds on 22 clumps.

First photos are July 28 - this is how the buds typically look and then don't open.

The next photo is the 22 clumps in full direct, noon - 5 PM heavy sun.

Finally, after 5 days, the blooms started to open yesterday! My large hand is shown for comparison.

July 28 2012 first blooms Aphrodite

2012 Aphrodite first bloom scape

Aug 2 2012 front bed Aphrodite

Aug 2 2012 Aphrodite

Aug 2 2012 Banyai hand

More photos as they continue to open!

Bruce Banyai

NOTES:

Fantastic Aphrodite blooming success. Keep forever.
clipped on: 08.04.2012 at 01:33 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2012 at 01:33 pm

What is allowed in posts? Rules/Etiquette

posted by: paul_in_mn on 07.22.2012 at 09:47 am in Hosta Forum

A few posts recently asking what is allowed in posts and hoping they hadn't violated any posting rules. The recent posed questions seem to be about rules of the forum, and also about etiquette.

Gardenweb has a few rules at bottom of the page where you create a posting. Mainly - Don't violate copyright, and no advertising.

And also a few guidelines in their Terms of Service. Too long to copy and post here, but worth a read thru. Mostly about rights. (linked below)

Regarding etiquette, most is common sense. but found this list of tips that seemed useful and generic. Many of these have been expressed as replies to poster questions on this forum.

25 Forum Posting Etiquette Tips
http://forum-services-review.toptenreviews.com/25-forum-posting-etiquette-tips.html/

1. Read the forums rules and guidelines before posting for the first time.

2. Search the other posts to see if your topic is already covered.

3. Use a meaningful title for your thread.

4. Do not use a forum to promote your product, service or business.

5. Be civil. Personal differences should be handled through email or IM and not through posts displayed to everyone.

6. Stay on topic.

7. Ignore spammers, respond to them personally and not through the board, or report them.

8. Do not submit a post that requires readers to download a large attachment. Either explain the attachment or, better yet, provide a link to the information.

9. Use plain text over HTML if you want your post to be readable by everyone.

10. In order to be understood by most people, use correct spelling, grammar and avoid slang unless you know the word or phrase will be understood by other members.

11. Do not double post (post the same message twice in one thread) or cross post (place the same message across several forums).

12. Act in a give and take manner; help others as often as or more than you ask for help.

13. Do not use all caps or SHOUT in your posts. In addition, one exclamation point is enough.

14. When replying to a post, do not quote more from the previous post than you have to.

15. Do not post new problems on someone else's thread and interrupt a topic of discussion.

16. Do not use someone else's thread for a private conversation.

17. Most forums prohibit warez, cracks or illegal downloading of software and similar topics.

18. Watch your sense of humor, posts may be read by people from a variety of backgrounds and ages.

19. Do not use a huge and annoying signature, a modest signature is fine, moderators may remove large ones anyway.

20. Do not post any information that you want private. Posts should not contain personal, identifiable information or content embarrassing to others.

21. Do not post content that violates a copyright.

22. Do not post "empty" or useless responses, such as just "lol" or "cool." Only post responses when you have something to contribute.

23. Write concisely and do not ramble.

24. Do not use words like "urgent" or "important" in your subject line, be patient.

25. Do not chastise newbies.

What are your thoughts? What are the de facto rules of the forum?

Paul

Here is a link that might be useful: GW Terms of Service: Guidelines

NOTES:

hosta forum post
clipped on: 07.22.2012 at 10:39 am    last updated on: 07.22.2012 at 10:40 am

RE: What's with HYPOLEUCA? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: paul_in_mn on 06.29.2012 at 01:59 pm in Hosta Forum

Adds the trait of leaves with white backs. And the leaf shape ain't bad.

From Bill Meyer's comments A Primer on the Traits of Hosta Species - Hypoleuca adds some surprising traits. Large leaf size is the most interesting one, but others include attractive flowering, acceptance of blue and lutescent gold coloring, and white leaf backs, as well as strong vigor (strange as that seems).
from a Mississippi Valley Hosta Society Newsletter
http://www.mvhosta.org/newsletter/March Newsletter 2008.pdf

Here's a pic from a garden tour that catches how white the backs are...
hypoleuca Pictures, Images and Photos

Here are lists of Maekawa and hypoleuca crosses-

Maekawa Hybrids
Big Pizza Pie 'Dorothy Benedict' x 'Maekawa'
Biggie 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Blockbuster 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Blue Suede Shoes 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Blueberry Patch 'Galaxy' x 'Maekawa'
Bows and Arrows (F1 seedling of 'Dorothy Benedict') x 'Maekawa'
Caesar Salad ('Korean Snow' x 'Maekawa') x 'Elvis Lives'
Cajun Sunrise 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Clouded Skies 'Fragrant Blue' x ('Korean Snow' x 'Maekawa')
Curlicue 'William Lachman' x 'Maekawa'
Dazzling 'Dorothy Benedict' x 'Maekawa'
Fiesta 'Pin Stripe Sister' x 'Maekawa'
Frisian Falls 'Maekawa' x 'Gilt by Association'
Golden Gloves 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Heavenly Constellation 'Breeder's Choice' x 'Maekawa'
Kilauea 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Megacup 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Mother Lode 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
My Cup of Tea 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Neptune ('Maekawa' x 'Halcyon') x 'Salute'
None Lovelier 'Neat Splash' x 'Maekawa'
Nutty Professor 'Maekawa' sport
Orange Crush 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Outrigger 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Purple Mountain Majesties 'Galaxy' x 'Maekawa'
Red-hot Mama 'William Lachman' x 'Maekawa'
Rhinestone Cowboy 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Ring of Fire 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Silver Moon 'Maekawa' x 'Blue Moon'
Song Sung Blues 'Dorothy Benedict' x 'Maekawa'
String of Pearls 'Goddess of Athena' x 'Maekawa'
Super Star 'Dorothy Benedict' x 'Maekawa'
The Mamas and the Papas 'Foxy Doxy' x 'Maekawa'
These Colors Don't Run (x 'Dorothy Benedict') x 'Maekawa'
Tutti-frutti 'Sea Prize' x 'Maekawa'
Unbridled Passion ('Neat Splash' x 'Northern Halo') x 'Maekawa'
You Light Up My Life 'Foxy Doxy' x 'Maekawa'
ZZZZ, A Sleeping Beauty (x 'Dorothy Benedict') x 'Maekawa'
hypoleuca hybrids
A Blue Streak 'First Impressions' x hypoleuca
A Lady in Blue 'William Lachman' x hypoleuca
A Many-splendored Thing 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
American Gold Band 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
Aqua Duchess hypoleuca x 'Cartwheels'
Arc de Triomphe 'Foxy Doxy' x hypoleuca
Arch Duke hypoleuca x 'Cartwheels'
Azure Snow hypoleuca seedling
Band of Gold 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
Bedford Blue hypoleuca x 'Halcyon'
Big Top 'William Lachman' x hypoleuca
Black Queen hypoleuca selection
Blue Ridge Mountains 'Galaxy' x hypoleuca
Blueberry Pancakes 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca
Bluegrass Country 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca
Butternut Hill hypoleuca x hypoleuca
Cascading Waters 'Liberty Bell' x hypoleuca
Celestial 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
Clambake hypoleuca hybrid
Color a la Mode 'Color Fantasy' x hypoleuca
Doublemint 'Herb Benedict' x hypoleuca
Elkhart Lake hypoleuca x 'June'
Eye of the Hurricane 'Calamity Jane' x hypoleuca
Fickle Blue Genes 'William Lachman' x hypoleuca
Final Answer 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
Floppy Disk 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca
Ganny Sandy 'Beatrice' x hypoleuca
Gazpacho 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca
Glacier Cascade kikutii x hypoleuca
Gosan Sunproof hypoleuca x (longipes var. latifolia x montana)
H. D. Thoreau 'Sagae' x hypoleuca
Happy Valley 'P14-3' x hypoleuca
High-rise 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca
Honey Hill Wrinkled Rainslicker 'Fragrant Bouquet' x hypoleuca
Hottie (x 'Galaxy') x hypoleuca
hypoleuca 'Urajiro' --->hypoleuca
King David hypoleuca hybrid
Kiwi Hippo hypoleuca x longipes
Lakeside Breaking News LBSR x hypoleuca
Lakeside Khum Kaw (hypoleuca F1) x 'Lakeside Ripples'
Lakeside Lagoon hypoleuca x "blue seedling"
Lakeside Plum Frosting seedling x (hypoleuca F1)
Lasting Impressions 'First Impressions' x hypoleuca
Lemon Meringue hypoleuca seedling
Lighthouse (F-1 seedling 'Dorothy Benedict') x hypoleuca
Limestone Lover hypoleuca hybrid
Maekawa hypoleuca selection
Maggie May hypoleuca hybrid
Magnificent Obsession 'Galaxy' x hypoleuca
Merry Sunshine 'Fascination' x hypoleuca
Old Black Magic 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca
Olive Oil 'Yellow Splash' x hypoleuca
Ooh La La 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca
Roller Coaster 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
Rumpled Sheets hypoleuca seedling
Sails at Sunset 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
Setsurei hypoleuca x pycnophylla
Show Stopper hypoleuca x plantaginea
Skyward 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
Splendor 'Galaxy' x hypoleuca
Stellar by Starlight 'Dorothy Benedict' x hypoleuca
Sun Chaser 'Dorothy Benedict' F-1 x hypoleuca
Talladega hypoleuca x 'June'
Thor hypoleuca seedling
Topsy-turvy 'William Lachman' x hypoleuca
Uncle Albert hypoleuca x kikutii var. caput-avis
Valley's Poker Face 'Red Sox' x hypoleuca
Wild Blue Yonder 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca
Zeppelin 'Creme de Menthe' x (kikutii f. leuconota x hypoleuca)
Zydeco 'Sea Prize' x hypoleuca

And lots of unnamed crosses.

Paul

Here is a link that might be useful: H. hypoleuca - Hosta Library -- PDF

NOTES:

Hypoleuca white back hosta progeny
clipped on: 06.30.2012 at 10:04 pm    last updated on: 06.30.2012 at 10:05 pm

Butch's constant water system (long)

posted by: mary52 on 04.18.2010 at 07:35 pm in Hosta Forum

I want to share a report on my experiment with Butchs constant water reservoir system. I wish I knew then what I know now, but I am getting there. This is for southern, heat growers, but Butch is using this system up north. Butch emailed me with some tips for winterizing, but I cant find that email right now. I remember he said to turn them on their sides. I dont have to do that here because our winters are so mild; I leave them where they are. This winter I didnt have to water, but the dry winter before last, I watered about three times. They do break dormancy earlier in a container. I am starting to dig some of them lower to the ground. I dont know if that will affect how fast they break dormancy or not. I started this whole experiment about three years ago. First, I started putting my hostas in a shallow pan of water. Some of the big ones spent a year in a wading pool. I liked being able to monitor the water level. That system does work, but mosquitoes will carry you off. I tried mosquito dunks, but it was cost prohibitive and did not really do the job. I then tried Butchs container within a container method. Once again, this system does work, but in some cases I found that the container inside the pot would limit root grown. I had enough success that I was not afraid to try Butchs closed pot with drain holes on the side method. I started off putting the drain holes about one fourth of the way up. This worked so well that I decided to take it to the next step. Last summer I began to move most of my hostas into pots that have drain holes about two thirds up the container. My plants need all the water they can get. Some of them were even able to make it through August without having what I call heat bleed where the ends of the leaves fade out and eventually get crispy. For the big hostas I use those big utility containers that have rope handles. I dont know if they will be big enough for a mature hosta like Blue Angel or Sum and Substance, but they will do for now. For the medium to small hostas, I use trash cans. Ikea has some that work great. I made the mistake of getting white; I will get black whenever I get back to Ikea again because I found that they are less intrusive when they are black or dark green. I bought a drill bit about as big as my little finger. I usually put four or five holes around the perimeter. For small hostas, I use the long trough type containers with the holes up high. Some of my small ones are still in the container within container system. For the growing medium, I use straight pine bark mulch. The first several I put into this system had mushroom compost mixed in. I lost many of those hostas. I have lost very few in straight mulch. You do have to keep an eye on them as you water or after a nice rain. You want that top layer to drain. Once in a great while, the holes will stop flowing, but it has not been as much of a problem as I expected. I can always add more drain holes around the side, but most of the time, I just squirt water from the hose to open up the hole I haven't had to change the mulch yet. I do not know what I will do when it is time to refresh the growing medium for my big hostas. Even after one season in my pool system, it took two people to pick up the root ball of my Sum and Substance .There is no way I will be able to handle a mature, giant hosta. I figure if worse comes to worse, I might be able to shovel prune the big ones. I remove leaves that fall on them in winter because they can hold water next to the crown and cause crown rot. Butch is a big advocate of mulching, but on this one topic I disagree because it does not work for my climate. When he first proposed trying his system, I was leery because most of my experience with container plants had been with house plants. I had to keep reminding myself that hostas are a bog plant. I am so glad I tried this method. I only lost two hostas out of over three hundred this past winter. One of those was Great Expectations. I do sometimes find slugs in voids in the mulch, and snails just climb right up for a treat. There are some funky odors inside the containers, but the hostas dont seem to mind. I use compost tea, but you can fertilize any way you want. It all boils down to: ITS THE WATER. This system delivers the water. THANKS BUTCH!! Sorry I rambled, but I wanted to share what I have learned. While I am at it, here is a short list of some of my best growers. (I would love to hear lists from other growers). The one I marvel at every time I look is Millennium. The leaves are huge this spring. Majesty has knocked my socks off, too. It has way out-performed Liberty. Other good growers are: Abba Dabba Do, Alligator Shoes, Gunsmoke, Blue Umbrellas, Moonlight Sonata, Spritzer, Polar Moon, Old Glory, Robert Frost, Mt. Everest, Potomac Pride, Alex Summers, and Shade Fanfare. Blue Angel isnt very blue, but the leaves are a foot long this year.
Here is a picture of a container with a drain hole on the side.
pot drain
Here is a plant root system that has been in the pot a couple of months.
root system
Here is a shot of some of my bigger hostas this spring.
garden10

NOTES:

Extreme Hosta Growing
clipped on: 06.29.2012 at 11:44 pm    last updated on: 06.29.2012 at 11:45 pm

Companion plants for full shade (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: kisher on 06.18.2011 at 08:55 am in Hosta Forum

There are some very nice perennials that love the shade (no or very little direct sun) and compliment the hosta garden.
The following are ones that I have put in my gardens in the last few years:

Brunnera - Mine do not like any sun at all, they go limp!
Epimedium - Do well in shade
European Ginger - Seem to tolerate shade well
Helllebore - They do well in full summer shade
Ferns - Of course. I have Japanese Painted, Japanese Tall, Japanese Holly, and Cinnamon
Japanese Yellow Grass - It bows down towards the sun
Ligularia - Absolutely no direct afternoon sun
Pulmonaria (Lung Wort) - Mine do not like any sun
Varigated Jacobs Ladder - Do not like much summer sun
Varigated Solomon's Seal - Do quite well in the shade

Now of course there are other shade tolerant perennials that go well in a hosta garden.
I hope you will post your favorites.

NOTES:

companion plants for hostas, or shade tolerant plants to share the bed with others.
clipped on: 09.06.2011 at 04:49 pm    last updated on: 09.06.2011 at 04:50 pm

Invasive Plant Removal

posted by: moccasinlanding on 09.01.2011 at 05:55 pm in Alabama Gardening Forum

One thing leads to another, doesn't it?
I just found out that the nandina domestica is invasive in the southeastern US. The site online gives ways to eradicate it.

It brings me to ask if the same treatment can get rid of the
very invasive camphor tree?

You can cut these trees down, but unless you remove every little piece of the root, it will grow back. Each little seed begins a new plant. And the wisteria, oh wow, it is hard to control too.

The same is true of the yew trees, seedlings everywhere, cannot just cut them off with the lawn mower, you have to pull them up.

So how do you deal with controlling them, terminating them, or whatever?

And what invasive plants do you deal with in your property?

NOTES:

tells what to do to kill or get rid of invasive plants in Alabama specifically.
Names herbicides effective.
clipped on: 09.04.2011 at 10:35 pm    last updated on: 09.04.2011 at 10:36 pm

RE: Kitchen finishes of the next decade? (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: johnliu on 07.06.2011 at 10:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

I agree most of the materials in kitchens are the same old thing, endlessly revived and respun. Wood. Stone. Chrome. It has been around forever.

There are interesting materials that could make a stunning and different kitchen. Not necessarily ''new''. It is overambitious to think that bucky balls and nano tubes will get to the kitchen before they're old hat in actual high technology applications. I mean older materials that simply don't get used in this room of the house.

We could have rubber countertops. There are rubbers that will withstand heat to 600F, resist oils and solvents, have enough mechanical strength to be a work surface, enough give to cushion a dropped glass, and can be colored.

There are a dozen synthetic solid surface materials that would be good countertops. Resins, pressed stone, glass products. Here is a website: http://www.scrapbookscrapbook.com/DAC-ART/kitchen-countertops.html

I mentioned antimicrobial copper alloys in another thread.

Traditional wood cabinetry is, in many ways, an absurdly difficult approach to the simple goal of drawers and shelves. An industrial engineer, tasked with specifying a work area, would never say ''we'll use expensive labor to piece together boxes from wood and glue using approximate measurements, then use more expensive and often indifferent labor to shim, screw and prop it all together with filler strips and molding covering up all the mistakes''. He would use a modular system of pre-made boxes and containers, fix a perfectly level mounting rail to the walls and hang the boxes from that. The counter wouldn't be glued down to the boxes, it would float above. Want to move the dishwasher to the other side, change a three drawer stack to a four, install an oven? No sawzall, no prybar, no living in the basement for months. Simply detach the box from the rail, swap in a new one. 1/8'' metal leaves more room for contents than 3/4'' wood, multiply by the hundred or so cabinet sides, drawer sides, door fronts, in a kitchen.

IKEA sort of follows this principle, partway. A wide variety of standardized elements that can be combined to make any cabinet layout you want, at a fraction of the cost of the traditional solution.

Even the way we think about kitchens is restrictive. We think of a sink, here, and a prep counter, there. Can they be the same? Some time ago, I got interested in using a darkroom sink as a huge sink-and-work surface-combined. If you're not familiar with a darkroom sink (film is not dead!) it is six or seven feet long, steel or fiberglass, watertight, about 3 or so inches deep, with multiple faucet spouts that reach everywhere. You work anywhere in the sink, then hose the whole thing down into a drain. If you had a rail at the front and rear walls, cutting boards and drain boards could be placed anywhere. The entire counter run or any part of it can be a sink, or a work surface, as you wish. The Kohler Stages sink is a miniature version of this.

Induction can make cooking location almost as flexible. Sometimes you only need a tiny two burner cooktop. Sometimes you need eight burners spread out. With induction, when you're only using two burners, your kid can color on the remaining six. The burners don't even have to be all jammed together in the same part of the kitchen.

For example, suppose you had a 10 foot long counter. Starting at the counter edge, the first 14'' is a 3'' deep darkroom type sink, with work surfaces placed and slid where-ever desired. The last 10'' to the wall is a long induction cooktop, one burner after another, lined up along the wall. You can prep a dish, cook it, and clean up after yourself, anywhere along that counter. You could have four people cooking, or just one.

Then there is verticality. I've been thinking a lot about verticality. We never have enough counter space. Because we only have one counter. If a library stored all its books on one shelf at waist level, it would have to be the size of a soccer pitch. If Manhattan housed all it's people on the ground floor, it would have to be the size of Kansas. But that's what we do in our kitchens. Darn, I have this sheet pan of trifles in progress, and no-where to set it down - my prep is now spilling over to the dining room. Too bad I don't have another shelf, or a stack of shelves, spaced to fit my mixing bowls or sheet trays or whatever I use for prep, ready to simply slide my work-in-progress onto.

I think, sometimes, that the reality is, most kitchens are not designed for cooking. Maybe a casserole or a pot of pasta. That's it. Most kitchens are designed to sit around in, to entertain in, to supervise homework, to show off all that Restoration Hardware neo-Elizabethan gloss. They're not primarily working spaces. They are parlors and sitting rooms, studded with faucet porn and writhing granite.

-

NOTES:

wow, that is telling it like it is.
clipped on: 07.08.2011 at 01:34 am    last updated on: 07.08.2011 at 01:34 am

RE: Taller Sasanqua Varieties? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: bodhisagan on 11.27.2005 at 02:55 am in Camellia Forum

Setsugekka is a nice white that grows crazy fast. Yuletide isn't all that quick.

Species oleifera and 'large leaf' Camellia sinensis have both grown quickly for me too.

Steve

NOTES:

camellia sinensis
clipped on: 06.29.2011 at 07:06 pm    last updated on: 06.29.2011 at 07:07 pm

RE: Taller Sasanqua Varieties? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: Luis_PR on 08.02.2005 at 06:11 pm in Camellia Forum

You can obtain this type of info from some of the online wholesalers. Check out the website for www.monrovia.com as follows: from the main page, click 'For Gardeners'; click 'About Our Plants'; click 'Plant Catalog'; set the 'Search By' Menu to 'CAMELLIAS', set the 'Your Cold Zone' Menu to your USDA Zone and click the green Search Button.

At this point, you should have a list of camellias sold by them. Pick one by clicking on the common name.

The webpage presented will usually have a picture of the flower. To the right, there will be a list of topics. The one titled 'Landscape Size' will give you a pretty good idea of how tall the camellia gets.

Be aware that the "mature size" of some camellias is not given so do not be surprised if yours gets taller than Monrovia's Average Landscape Size. That is -partly- due to the fact that camellias can get very old; some are more than 500 years old!

Luis

NOTES:

finding info on camellias
clipped on: 06.29.2011 at 07:04 pm    last updated on: 06.29.2011 at 07:04 pm

RE: Start of 'Salvaged' Kitchen remodel... (Follow-Up #47)

posted by: mama_goose on 06.11.2011 at 08:11 am in Smaller Homes Forum

Thanks, marti8a, that's what I was thinking about the door frames, but it's nice to have backup. :) The stove was in good shape on the outside--just needed some touch-ups. I sprayed the rusty inside panels, drawer boxes, and drip pans with epoxy appliance paint, so that was easy, too. The metal tag on the inside of the stove says '60th year,' which dates it to 1932.

dretutz, thank you very much. I'm only half-way there, so stay tuned!

shades, thank you so much--it's a relief to get the cabinet mounted, and out of the living room. It's like taking down the Christmas tree--an added bonus is that the LR seems bigger now. I hope there are vintage cabinets in your future!

I've added a close-up of the stove knobs. I used the Milliput brand, two-part epoxy putty, the same that I used to fill the grout lines on the marble tile counter. I love that stuff! I've used it to repair chips on pottery and old enamel bread boxes, and to join two pieces of marble to make a door pull. It cures HARD, and can be sanded smooth, then painted.

Thrilled about the columbine--I feel like a proud aunt. ;)

Here is a link that might be useful: Stove knobs

NOTES:

Milliput brand 2 part epoxy putty.
clipped on: 06.20.2011 at 10:42 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2011 at 10:42 pm

Supplies by State/Region: Al's Gritty Mix

posted by: greyslate on 04.06.2009 at 07:17 pm in Container Gardening Forum

When starting out looking for the supplies for Als Gritty Mix, I ran into some walls. Aided by the indomitable tapla;), I was lucky enough to find everything needed. I thought that we could start a thread in which everyone who is using the Gritty Mix posts where they found supplies in order to help out new converts in their area. Ive started with some Maryland information please follow-up with what youve found!

If youre still looking, and no ones posted/found supplies in your area, use these tips from tapla:
Grani-grit "Go to MSN Yellow Pages; Enter Grain Elevator under 'Business name or category'; Enter Location under 'Location'; Call those businesses with 'grain', 'elevator', or 'farming services' after the bold 'category'; Ask for crushed granite grower grit. If they say they have it, be sure it is crushed granite before you head out to pick it up. It might be helpful to ask if it is packaged under the name 'Gran-I-Grit'." I also got lucky looking under "feed suppliers/stores" ...
Turface Use the website to find local distributors: http://www.profileproducts.com/en/sports_fields/wheretobuy.htm

State/Region/Province: Maryland (Central/North)
Turface: Newsom Seed Company, locations in Fulton and Gaithersburg (sells by the 50# bag), www.newsomseed.com
Grani-Grit: The Mill, Parkton (Does not normally stock it, but readily orders it for no extra fee; will sell small quantities) (410) 329-6558
Bark fines: "GardenPro, Premium Bark Mulch" from Lowes (must be sifted through screens for size, but decent to start with)

NOTES:

Learn to mix Al's Gritty Mix for container plants.
clipped on: 06.20.2011 at 06:51 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2011 at 06:52 pm

Wax Myrtle story

posted by: tedevore on 06.08.2011 at 10:24 pm in Alabama Gardening Forum

I had a few trees taken out of my back yard last year, and because I was interested in a smallish tree that was could be evergreen and provide food for the birds, I decided I would try planting a couple of wax myrtles. (myrica cerifera). Never grown them before.

I read on several websites from extension services and botanical gardens that this plant is diecious, meaning the plant is either male or female flowers, and if you really want berries, you had best get both a male and female plant.

So in early spring I visited several nurseries, many of which had wax myrtle
(advertising the berries on their tags.) When I asked if there was any way I could get a male and female plant, they looked at me like I was crazy. The wax myrtles they had were not in flower yet (and its not supposed so be easy to tell the male vs. female flowers), but the nursery people at three different places would tell me something, with attitude, like: "Ive been working here for 20 years, and I can assure you there are not separate male and female myrtles." They had heard of this for ginko trees, for example, but not wax myrtle. They were no help. Finally a nice guy who runs a native nursery around here (called mulberry woods nursery, which I had not heard of) suggested I ask Jason, the owner of petals from the past. Because sure enough, Jason buys from a native grower near Mobile that sells cultivars of wax myrtle, including a male he calls "Salty Dog" and a female he calls "Wolf Bay."

So the moral of this (long and perhaps boring) story is: you are better off buying from your nursery friends who really KNOW the plants, not just sell them, and be nice to them because they are few and far between.

NOTES:

uses of wax myrtle, way to propagate, where to find in Mobile.
clipped on: 06.16.2011 at 11:31 am    last updated on: 06.16.2011 at 11:32 am

RE: Advice to rip out or cover my beadboard (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: melissastar on 06.07.2011 at 12:22 pm in Old House Forum

Some months back I saw an idea for old beadboard that I loved. Don't know if it would work for you, but I'll pass it along anyway. There was an article in a decorating magazine about someone who actually went out and bought old salvaged beadboard to use in a kid's bathroom. But instead of stripping and painting, he/she sanded and smoothed, but left a lot of the old imperfections in place, including bits of old paint jobs. Then, he put a protective coat of polyurethane right over the old stuff. The result was this beautiful, weathered, aged looking wood that had real character and was practically bulletproof in terms of abuse. Because it already had a beaten up look, new scratches, dings, water spots, etc. didn't bother the owner, but the polyurethane protected it from real damage.

If you are thinking of a rustic, vintage-y look, it might be something to consider. In the right house, right kitchen I think it would look fabulous.

NOTES:

Reusing old beadboard
clipped on: 06.09.2011 at 02:24 pm    last updated on: 06.09.2011 at 02:24 pm

advice on old shellacked woodwork

posted by: melissastar on 06.07.2011 at 12:10 pm in Old House Forum

Hi all: I've been hanging about the Kitchens forum as I worked on a kitchen remodel in my 1907 Baltimore row house. Now it's mostly done and I'm turning my attention to other issues, notably...woodwork.

Much of the original woodwork at my house is intact and unpainted, though some of it is quite beaten up. Previous owners (I've been here about a year and a half) apparently did some work on it, but it's not entirely clear to me what exactly they did. My son and I have been gradually tackling some of the shellacked stuff that had alligatored and we have more or less successfully rejuvenated several doors and door frames by using denatured alcohol to dissolve and reconstitute the alligatored shellac.

Question now is what to do about the staircase, which is a veritable patchwork of woodwork in various stages of restoration (not to mention species...some is oak, some pine). Many of the spindles have been nearly stripped of finish, apparently using alcohol on the shellac. They've left nearly bare areas, with dark rings of aged shellac in every bead and cove. The newel posts and rails however, seem to have undergone the same treatment as the doors I've done and seem fine.

I am really loathe (for budgetary reasons among others) to dismantle everything and send it out to be stripped. I am willing to live with some variablility and considerable imperfection in the finish, as I am of the philosophy that I live in an old house, not a museum. But I would like to try to even out what I've got a bit. Anyone got any suggestions?

NOTES:

Notes about shellacking wood products
clipped on: 06.09.2011 at 02:06 pm    last updated on: 06.09.2011 at 02:06 pm

Fabric Aeration Containers

posted by: pepper_d0g on 08.02.2009 at 08:39 am in Container Gardening Forum

Good Morning all,
I was wondering if anyone can share their experience with these type of pots? From what I have read about them it all makes sense to me. I started using them a couple of weeks ago when I planted my pepper seedlings in 3 gallons. They fit perfectly in inexpensive plant stands from the dollar store. I think these will be great here in Florida. You can't beat the drainage and aeration. Opinions?

Ken

NOTES:

save this one for DH's veggie garden plants.
clipped on: 06.06.2011 at 11:03 pm    last updated on: 06.07.2011 at 09:26 am

Fantech vs. Panasonic Exhaust Fans

posted by: hpxmirage on 09.20.2010 at 10:22 am in Bathrooms Forum

I'm planning on a Fantech inline fan for my range hood ventilation, and am thinking of going with some Fantech inlines for the bathrooms in our new house as well (the dual setups for the main bathrooms - over the shower and commode) and a single fan for the powder room downstairs.

Our builder wants to use "the Panasonic exhaust fans," which I've Googled up and appear to have identified as the Whisper series.

Since the Fantech blower is at least somewhat removed from the grate in the ceiling, I have to think it would be quieter.

Have already done some searching and reading here, but not seen as much about the Panasonic as the Fantechs, which seem to have a pretty ardent group of owners. Any other experiences and recommendations?

Thanks!

NOTES:

Save this one for DH to see. Need a dual venting fan for the cape house. And a solatube as well. Lighted w/ LED? like that too. On a dimmer and a timer as well.
clipped on: 06.04.2011 at 04:47 pm    last updated on: 06.04.2011 at 04:48 pm

RE: Artichoke - first time growing (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: jonhughes on 03.14.2011 at 07:00 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Hi Gemfire,
In the 3rd pic down , notice the different sizes (some are so small, they are hard to see), this is the way Artichokes produce, The First one up,(on each individual shoot) is the largest, then come the medium sized ones, then the smallest ones.

Pick them when they first start to "loosen" or "opening" their petals, the squeeze test (like CHARMIN ;-)

They start out tender and the longer you leave them on the shoot, the tougher they become,until eventually they become fully opened and produce absolutely gorgeous flowers

The small DO NOT eventually get bigger, so pick them when they are tender (unopened) , they will be the size of the ones you purchase in the store that have been marinated.

Photobucket

6-14-2010

6-17-2010

NOTES:

when to pick the artichokes.
clipped on: 05.29.2011 at 04:45 pm    last updated on: 05.29.2011 at 04:45 pm

RE: Artichoke - first time growing (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: jonhughes on 12.05.2010 at 05:03 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Hi Tony,
That is Awesome... Good Job Brother ;-)
They can be grown from seed, but it is a crap shoot, you are much better off, propagating from a known and desired plant, you can take 5 or more shoots off of an artichoke and that way you are getting the clone of the parent. If possible find someone local who has Artichoke plants and ask to partake of a shoot or two , cut down through the roots ,so you have some roots attached and then next year you can split up your plants ten times or more ;-)

As for posting pics
1. Go to Photobucket.com and get a album (free ;-)
2. Upload Pics to your album
3. Click on the HTML link and cut and paste the link into your post.

I love what you have done, it sounds a lot like me, other than you seem to be made of money and I am dirt poor ;-)

After you set up your album use the "uploader" to fill up your album..

4-27-2010

The third link down is the HTML code to copy and paste into your post.

Photobucket

Compost Bins 4-22-2010

Garden 4-22-2010

Hot Steaming Compost 4-22-2010

4-18-2010

4-18-2010

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.29.2011 at 04:39 pm    last updated on: 05.29.2011 at 04:40 pm

RE: Covering window opening while rehabbing (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 05.07.2011 at 10:08 am in Old House Forum

Buy a sheet of extruded foam insulation board 3/4" thick. (not white styrofoam beadboard) If you cut it carefully, it's a press-fit in the jamb. Plastic sheet is OK to keep bugs out, but no security or privacy. If security is the #1 concern, you'll have to plywood over the opening.
Casey

NOTES:

Keep this in mind for when we rebuild our windows. Need privacy AND security.
clipped on: 05.07.2011 at 11:24 am    last updated on: 05.07.2011 at 11:25 am

RE: Start of 'Salvaged' Kitchen remodel... (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: mama_goose on 04.13.2011 at 09:48 pm in Smaller Homes Forum

Thank you all for the welcoming words and praises!

moccasin, I can just imagine you stacking books--you are one determined woman! I used a section of 2x4 for a cabinet cleat. I don't think I'd be up to balancing an 8-foot wide cabinet on a MW cart, although I once used my kids' little red wagon to transport big rocks for a stone wall. It was just the right height for me to roll the rocks onto it, then roll them into place on the wall. Of course, that was 15 years ago...

The paint is Valspar, Kitchen and Bath, in soft gloss. I live 10 minutes from a Lowe's, so most of my paint comes from there (or from my mother, who buys lots of 'mis-tints' and mixes her own.) The paint was one of the first things I bought for the kitchen, and I still love it.

Nancy, I am blushing! The original latches were not salvageable--I even took them apart, hoping to be able to repair them. I got lucky and found 7 latches for $28.00 (including shipping!) on ebay. When I asked, the seller included both right and left hooks, so I can use the latches on either side. I'm using the other three latches for the extra cabinet that will go in the dining room.

Shades, I've always envied your pantry! I used wallpaper in the pantry, too--cut it to fit all those little shelves--that way I didn't have to wait for the paint to cure before loading them. I buy the wallpaper at a local outlet for $1.00/roll, and it's usually pre-pasted, so if you wet it, it stays in place.

You mentioned the vinegar/heat technique: The latches were shiny brass. To make them look vintage, I soaked them overnight in apple cider vinegar, then 'baked' on a cooky sheet, 300 degrees, until they darkened. After I attached them to the cabinets, I used a scrubbie to take the patina off the top of the handle--as if it hand worn off with years of being pushed with a thumb. Wish I were closer to take advantage of the deals on cabinets. I decided to buy inexpensive drawer bases at Lowe's--they'll be painted the Dried Hydrangea color. It's so nice not to have to rinse sawdust off everything that comes out of a lower cabinet! I look at magazines backwards...talk about great minds ;)

marti8a, my very first question on GW was about black marble. I bought polished tiles at Lowe's (I really don't own stock in Lowe's, LOL) for $1.49/sq.foot. I'm sure it was seconds, and was highly polished. I bought more than I needed, then culled out the best tiles for the kitchen counter. I used the best of the 'rejects' for the prep sink counter, since it was practice for the kitchen. I honed the tiles by dipping them in a white vinegar bath, then in a baking soda bath to neutralize the acid. Rinsed in water, then sanded with progressively finer sandpaper, to a soft glow.

On the prep sink, since it is a 'wet' area, we left a 1/8" space for grout. After I grouted, I wiped out the bevel. When the grout cured I used Milliput epoxy putty in each grout line, cut level with the surface of the tile. Again, I got lucky--the Milliput putty comes in three colors: white, gray, and black, and the black is a perfect match for the New St.Laurent marble. When the epoxy cures, it can be sanded and buffed to match the different color nuances in the marble. I used a pin to scratch lines across the cured putty, connecting the natural lines in the marble, and also used some of my daughters' cast off nail polish, which worked amazingly well to simulate the white marble veins.

Since the kitchen counter is mostly a buffet (not wet, or a prep zone), I skipped the grout, butted the tiles, and filled the bevels with the epoxy putty. Then scratched the designs on the cured putty, as before.

**I admit--this is an experiment,** but a fairly inexpensive one--the kitchen counter cost only about $100. It would have been closer to $150, but I used some left-over materials. If it doesn't hold up, I can redo it myself in a few years. So far, the prep sink counter is holding up well, with daily use. Currently the coffee maker is sitting on a metal tray on that counter, and no problems, except for a few surface scratches where the tray has been pushed around. I take care of scratches and etches with a fine sanding sponge, and try not to nag everyone :(

Sorry if this is more than you ever wanted to know about marble tile :)

NOTES:

Valspar Dried Hydrangea paint.
soft gloss, kitchen and bath.
Milliput epoxy putty.........

Lowes told me they don't make that paint in Valspar now, but they mixed me a sample. It is very goldish green, quite lovely, but I'm not sure it is what Mama used. So I've gotten every brand of DRIED HYDRANGEA that is sold.
Ace, Martha Stewart, and the Lowes sample.

clipped on: 04.14.2011 at 09:39 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2011 at 10:29 am

RE: Do you love Banquette Seating? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: shelayne on 04.19.2011 at 08:10 pm in Smaller Homes Forum

Hi Newbie~ First of all, I love Lidi! I have seen so many beautiful Lidi kitchens--like Brickmanhouse's kitchen. To LIVE for!

About my doors-- I ordered my doors from Advantage Door Company. I looked at many door companies, including Scherr's--who come highly recommended from GW and Ikeafans, but would have made this project cost prohibitive for us. Advantage was quite a bit less $$ than Scherr's.

Scherr's does have all the IKEA measurements on file and will do all the drilling for you, so that is definitely a plus! All you have to do is tell them which cabinets, and they do the rest, which would make the whole custom door thing a piece of cake!

In our case, I worked with Darryl and Advantage and gave him the specs to do the hinge cup boring for the IKEA hinges (made by Blum). I not only told him over the phone, but I also emailed a copy of template. Still freaking out, I actually mailed the corner of a door with the hinge pattern to him. Hahaha. I really didn't need to do that, but I was so nervous. LOL. We did all the other drilling ourselves, using both a shallow and a deep drawer as a template--all shallow drawers are the same, and all deep drawers are the same. Before I sent everything, I went to IKEA and personally measured the doors and drawers myself. I brought a friend and we double or triple-checked each measurement I needed. I was pretty confident about the measurements. I also received tips from a couple Ikeafans/GWers who did custom doors with IKEA cabs.

Even though you say you are not handy, I bet you could do the assembly, it is really quite easy. Once you do one, the rest get easier and easier. If you wanted to give it a try, you could do what I did; I bought a 3-drawer stack, in the cheapest door (which is now Harlig), to see how difficult the assembly process was. I figured that a drawer stack would be the most challenging. It was actually easy and kinda fun! I knew that I could do it. The actual drawers are the easiest part, as they just click together! I did all the assembly, and DH and I did the install--mostly DH. I was the one who stood there and said, "Woo!" ;^)

Feel free to ask me any questions!

NOTES:

IKEA cabs experience. How to custom order the doors. Scherr was more expensive but has all the specs for IKEA. Advantage door did nicely too.

Maybe order a 3 drawer stack like she did, and see if I can do it for our kitchen?

clipped on: 04.20.2011 at 10:06 pm    last updated on: 04.20.2011 at 10:07 pm

New Pictures, more information... A Bit Nervous!

posted by: tinker_2006 on 03.31.2011 at 10:05 pm in Old House Forum

Today, we had the home inspection of our "1955" house, and as I expected, the 2 inspection companies agreed with me, dating this house back to 1920-1930. Traces of the old Knob and Tube, crystal door knobs, lathe & plaster, cypress ceiling...

I just adore the house, and I know it needs a lot of work, but it needs more than we expected! Electric, needs service increased, and many wires taken care of. The roof is new, but it was done wrong, needs to come off and be totally redone to make sure it is right (Soft mushy spots). The entire septic system needs to be replaced, 2 showers will need total replacement, windows.. lots of windows, all in very poor shape.. but I would like to look into restoring them, vs. new sashes. Also, signs of old termite damage (not active), which is common in the wood frame homes in FL. Some areas of wood rot, some ceiling repairs, floors need a light refinishing....

We plan on getting some prices for these items and renegotiate the price, I figure with the kitchen redone, it will be close to $300,000 on renovations!

********************************************

Front of house, that area with the metal peak, was once a porch.

From Sunrise Drive

******************************
Kitchen pantry and door into "sevant's bedroom".

From Sunrise Drive

***********************************

Years ago, this area was a porch, they stuck in an aluminum window! We can see the porch floor boards when we open the door.

From Sunrise Drive

********************************
Dining Room

From Sunrise Drive

From Sunrise Drive

From Sunrise Drive

********************************
This room, I don't know what I'll use it for. It it off both the dining room & living room, and was once a back porch.

From Sunrise Drive

From Sunrise Drive

********************************

Love this room, but they updated the fireplace, and I hate it.. that will need to go!

From Sunrise Drive

another view, looking down the hallway into the Master bedroom, to the right is the enclosed porch

From Sunrise Drive

Looking the opposite way, is the entrance, with a coat closet to the side.

From Sunrise Drive

Front door and coat closet

From Sunrise Drive

From Sunrise Drive

built in's in living room

From Sunrise Drive

********************************

Flash makes this picture look funny, but a small room, off the hall way heading towards the master bedroom. It's tung and groove paneling, has 2 windows that would have looked off onto the porch.. I have NO IDEA what this room could have been used for!

From Sunrise Drive

********************************
Master bath, narrow cabinet behind door, not original.. cheap made cabinets that look good, but are not.I really like how it looks and plan on recreating it.

From Sunrise Drive

********************************

one of 4 baths.. I'll be repainting!

From Sunrise Drive

********************************

Flooring.. hope someone can tell me what wood this is.. they said heart pine?

From Sunrise Drive

From Sunrise Drive

From Sunrise Drive

From Sunrise Drive

From Sunrise Drive

NOTES:

I want to stay in touch with this house, because it is so fascinating. Lots of details say Florida cracker to me. A comfortable style to live in.
clipped on: 04.17.2011 at 10:30 am    last updated on: 04.17.2011 at 10:31 am

RE: Counter Deep Fridge (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: beaniebakes on 03.08.2011 at 03:26 pm in Smaller Homes Forum

Pam,
I live in a 1-1/2 story converted schoolhouse built in 1890, originally <900 sq.ft. (now 1300 sq.ft. thanks to a 2-room addition), small everything, almost no closets, no basement (funky crawl space.) Almost three years ago, I bought a Summit refrigerator (stainless), model FFBF285SS, similar to the one mentioned by squirrelheaven. I love it! It is very well designed, with a larger capacity than expected, perfect for a small household. I'm only 5'1" but the height of the fridge does not present a problem. I believe it's similar to the Fagor and Blomberg. It's made in Turkey, but has a Summit badge.

NOTES:

good fridge for couunterdepths.
clipped on: 04.14.2011 at 09:53 pm    last updated on: 04.14.2011 at 09:54 pm

RE: Repotting a pothos plant. Advice needed. (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: exoticrainforest on 12.31.2010 at 11:30 am in House Plants Forum

Your aroid commonly called "Pothos" is actually Epipremnum aureum. Epipremnum aureum was originally published to science as Pothos aureus Linden & Andr� in 1880 but that name is now considered non-valid or a synonym of E. aureum.

As aroid botanist Peter Boyce explains in volume 32 of the journal of the International Aroid Society, Aroideana, 2009 (page 15, volume 32), Pothos is a completely different genus containing 65 species. Plants in this genus look very little like Epipremnum aureum. Every genus has a specific set of defined characteristics and with this species several of those characteristics did not match the definition of the genus Pothos. Still, despite the fact it is not a member of the original genus it is commonly called a "Pothos" by plant collectors worldwide.

You appear to have the non-variegated form is less common that the variegated form but is the way the plant was originally discovered in the wild. There was a time when this plant was thought to be Epipremnum pinnatum but that has since been proved to be inaccurate.

Al is absolutely correct on his assessment. Pete Boyce clearly established the species was native to the island of Moorea in the Society Islands, north of Australia. Although not a native, Epipremnum aureum is now common on many Pacific islands as well as Malaysia, in Hawaii, Central and South America, Southern Florida and the Caribbean due to the release of imported plants. E. aureum is so wide spread in Hawaii it is considered an invasive species. It loves light and the plant strives to seek it out as a result of a subject known as scototropism.

Scototropic (sko-to-TRO-pic) growth describes the tendency of vining plants to grow towards the darkness found in the shade of a tree or object such as tall tree or a cliff, which will eventually allow the specimen to climb towards brighter light. The plant loves and needs bright light in order to grow larger as a result of photosynthesis which requires light.

My first suggestion would be to move it near a very bright window and give it something to climb.

The plant changes shape as it grows through a process known as ontogeny, provided it is allowed to climb. In our atrium the largest leaves are now close to 3 feet long but it morphs into many shapes as it climbs. Photos are on the link below.

In a variety of links on this site Al offers very good porous soil mixes that can encourage an aroid to live a long time and grow to a larger size as well as remain healthy. In the wild it lives largely in composted leaf litter and I�ve seen them growing that way at a number of places in the tropics.

When the time is right I would encourage you to consider repotting in a better soil mix but in the meantime, give it more light. Make sure the soil does not stay wet but also remember, this is a tropical plant species and loves water, thus the need for a porous soil mix.

The correct mix and proper watering are far more important than the size of the pot. I start many rare plants in much larger pots than most growers recommend and if you look at the homepage of my site you'll see they grow very large as a result of proper soil mixes, good light and the right amount of water. www.ExoticRainforest.com

Take a few moments and read my page below which was researched with the aid of Pete Boyce, Dr. Tom Croat at the Missouri Botanical Garden and others.

Al, can I suggest you post a link to some of your articles on soil?

Steve
Corresponding Secretary, The International Aroid Society

Here is a link that might be useful: Epipremnum aureum

NOTES:

discussion of pothos, soil/water/light
clipped on: 03.22.2011 at 04:25 pm    last updated on: 03.22.2011 at 04:26 pm

RE: 1900ish Victorian - pretty bare bones! (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: brickeyee on 01.27.2011 at 03:35 pm in Old House Forum

You can get a lot better performance even from old windows if you make the seal better.

Conservation Technology (Baltimore, MD) has all sorts of 'flipper' and other seals that work well on double hung windows without showing much (if at all).

The flipper seals are placed in a very narrow groove in the sides of the double hung windows and make a decent seal as long as the tracks are smooth.
Nothing shows when the window is installed.

You can also use the flipper seals on the top of the upper sash and the bottom of the lower sash (they show slightly when the window is open).

Felt seals can be used at the meeting rail in the middle of the window, and again only show when the window is open.

You will never find any wood as good as the stuff in those old windows.
Minwax High Performance Wood Filler can be used to repair damaged areas and then sanded and painted.
If you do a good job sanding the repairs cannot be seen under a coat of paint.
The filler can even be carved when partially hardened to repair damaged molding profiles (you can shape after hardening further, but is is easier to shape the partially hardened material).

Hiring someone to rebuild and renovate older windows often costs as much as replacing them.
You can do window renovation yourself bit by bit if you have storms to close the opening when the sashes are removed.

Most of the advantage of new windows is in the gasketing that reduces infiltration.
Even old wooden storm windows can use some gasketing to improve their seal.

NOTES:

window seals for double hung windows.
clipped on: 03.17.2011 at 01:26 am    last updated on: 03.17.2011 at 01:26 am

RE: Cutting board questions... (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: lisa_zn4 on 03.16.2011 at 12:05 pm in Smaller Homes Forum

I work for a company that used to manufacture and sell cutting boards. Glass cutting boards will dull your knives, they are really only useful as a trivet. If you choose plastic and are concerned about meat contamination get two boards, one to use for meats (look for NSF certification) and one to use for all other foods. Choose 2 different colors, or some are marked with a meat logo vs a vegetable logo. The meat board should have a juice groove around the edge, which will prevent meat juice from dripping on your counter. Plastic boards might warp in the dishwasher.

Wood boards (my preference) require some upkeep. You can wash with soap and water in the sink, and deep clean by liberally sprinkling with salt and use 1/2 a lemon cut side down, to scrub the surface with the salt. You can also sand off stubborn stains. Wood cutting boards are usually made with laminated strips of wood glued together to form the board. They should be treated periodically to prevent delamination and to keep the wood from drying out, by coating it with food grade mineral oil (available in the pharmacy for a buck or two, or for lots more as cutting board oil - make sure the mineral oil is marked food grade or for human consumption). Apply a liberal coat, allow to soak in for several hours and wipe off the excess. Wood boards should never be washed in the dishwasher. Aside from aesthetic and environmental concerns, bamboo is no different from any other type of wood cutting board and should be cared for in the same manner.

NOTES:

care of boards
clipped on: 03.16.2011 at 11:41 pm    last updated on: 03.16.2011 at 11:42 pm

Using fish emulsion/kelp liquid fertilizer..questions..

posted by: AdamM321 on 08.01.2005 at 09:39 am in Organic Gardening Forum

Hi,

I like to use Fish emulsion/kelp fertilizer. I follow the package directions for diluting with water and apply to the leaves. I am wondering about timing. If I spray the plant, and rain is predicted, is the fertilzer going to be wasted?

I mean, I think that once it is on the plant and DRIES on the leaves, that the plant has gotten it's dose and then if it rains, it doesn't matter. I have no idea why I think this..lol. Is that right or wrong? How long does the solution have to be on the leaves to get all the benefit?

More questions..[g]...What about applying it when the plants are in full sun? I always think that I should apply it early in the morning before the hot sun is on them. Applying when the leaves are wet? I always think I should apply it to dry leaves or else it will drip off. What about the plant being either watered or not? I always think the plant should be thoroughly watered before I fertilize? What about applying it every day? If this is the only fertilizer you use, can it really promote as good a growth as something inorganic? IF every day is too much, what about once a week?

Phhewww! Can't think of any more questions..lol.

Adam

NOTES:

this whole thread is good discussion about use of FISH EMULSION.
clipped on: 03.15.2011 at 03:07 pm    last updated on: 03.15.2011 at 03:08 pm

RE: Fertilizing (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rhizo_1 on 03.08.2011 at 09:25 am in Alabama Gardening Forum

Trees have begin to wake up at this time of year...partly due to the lengthening days (as well as warmer temperatures). A conservative application of some form of fertilizer at this time of year could be of benefit.

In regards to possible problems associated with frost...if that happens, it absolutely will NOT be because of fertilization. Our trees and shrubs are going to come out of winter dormancy regardless of anything you may or may not apply to the soil. A severe frost could still come at any time (remember the Easter freeze a couple of years ago?) and zap the daylights out of our early flowers or new spring growth.

It's the late summer/early fall fertilization that cause problems for the woody plants. Such applications may keep them from entering their fall shut-down, making them susceptible to winter injury.

Avoid heavy doses of anything; don't use fertilizer spikes; and know that compost is a terrific, slow-release form of nutrients, too. Be mindful, as well, that your trees may not even need fertilization at all. Less is best when it comes to our woody plants.

The single most beneficial thing we can do for our trees is to provide a 2-4 inch layer of mulch, in a wide swath around the tree. Mulch helps create soil environment conducive to root development...stronger roots equals more top growth. Never, however, pile mulch up against the trunk in a big pile, a 'style' so popular with uninformed landscapers.

NOTES:

spring and fertilizing plants in Alabama
clipped on: 03.08.2011 at 11:55 am    last updated on: 03.08.2011 at 11:55 am

RE: What makes a clay pot get slimy on the outside? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: tapla on 03.05.2011 at 11:24 am in House Plants Forum

As water passes through the container walls, it evaporates when it hits the air and deposits hydroxide ions and alkaloids on the outside of the pot. These deposits are very basic (a base is the opposite of an acid where pH is concerned). If you know anything about soap-making (saponification) you know that mixing a strong base (like lye) with animal or vegetable fat makes a soap.

We have lipids in our skin that are rich in fats, waxes, and sterols that react with the high pH basic material on the outside of the pots. Other organic molecules that come in contact with this base material react as well. The slimy or soapy feel on fingers is due to saponification of the lipids in our skin and other diverse fatty acids that come in contact with and collect on the pot's outside walls. During the process molecular bonds are broken that release fatty acid salts and glycerol (you know how slimy glycerin is).

The short answer is: it is soap, and starts turning some of the lipids on the surface of your skin into a film of soap when moisture is present and you touch it - thus the slimy feel.

Al

NOTES:

a great reply to my question.
clipped on: 03.05.2011 at 08:46 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2011 at 08:47 pm

RE: Lead paint inside kitchen cabinets (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: inox on 03.05.2011 at 05:37 pm in Old House Forum

A recent issue of Fine Homebuilding magazine reported that the EPA found that all but two of the lead paint test kits report both false positives and false negatives. The reliable kits are the LeadCheck kit by Hybrivet Systems of Natick, MA, and one sold only by the State of Massachusetts to licensed contractors in MA.

Hybrivet Systems was acquired by 3M in February.

Here is a link that might be useful: Lead Check test kits

NOTES:

lead test kits reliability
clipped on: 03.05.2011 at 07:48 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2011 at 07:49 pm

RE: Soil pests question and my new Pothos (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: jane__ny on 02.22.2011 at 12:20 am in House Plants Forum

I've used Peroxide on orchids for bacterial problems. I'm not sure how well it works but it is highly recommended by orchid growers. It is used on the roots and leaves. One just pours it over the affected area.

Toni, as far as I can see, peroxide doesn't hurt but does seem help. I've used it straight on orchid roots when repotting. Many times, orchids bought in certain big-box stores come home with rotting roots. When I repot, I remove all the soggy media, cut off the rotted roots and flush with peroxide, straight from the bottle. Then it goes into new, clean mix. When you pour it over any diseased part, it fizzes up and when it stops fizzing, you can rinse it off.

I don't know why it helps except to add additional oxygen to the infection and speed healing.

Jane

NOTES:

orchids and hydrogen peroxide
clipped on: 03.01.2011 at 05:18 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2011 at 05:19 pm

RE: use hydrogen peroxide in containers? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: infinion on 06.26.2009 at 11:20 am in Container Gardening Forum

I've heard it can help with root rot and the such. H2O2 will oxidize anything, which in the case of most tissues (human, plant, whatever) means killing it. That's why it's not recommended to use H2O2 on wounds anymore. Sure, it kills the bad stuff, but also kills all the good tissue, and turns out soap and water does just as well, or iodine. H2O2 will kill your plants, especially seedings I'd think. But, it also does what you've heard it does. Use very sparingly, but I don't know how to tell you to do that. It would depend on the soil type, the plant, etc, and I'd probably still be guessing. You might start will a very very small amount in a gallon of water. Make sure you know the concentration of the H2O2 before trying to mix it; obviously, that will effect the final concentration. I've heard reports about increased growth and limiting root rot and disease. I've also heard about dead plants, and significant reduction in growth and production. Unfortunately, I've never tried it myself. I think there are safer ways to do what you want to do here. Use the correct soil/mix and watering requirements for the container and the plant. I doubt H2O2 is any magic formula, or we'd know more about it.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 03.01.2011 at 05:16 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2011 at 05:16 pm

use hydrogen peroxide in containers?

posted by: pardak on 06.26.2009 at 11:08 am in Container Gardening Forum

a few weeks ago I read on a website that someone suggested using 3% hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) for growing plants. I've never heard of this before. does anyone on this list use H2O2 in their containers? if so, how well does it work and how much/how often should it be used?

I think the webpage suggested using 1 or 2 tsp of H2O2 per gallon of irrigation water for increasing oxygen at the roots and for reducing problems with root rot and minimizing diseases. it mentioned a big increase in root mass and growth by using the H2O2.

So can or should H2O2 be used in both the 511 and grit mixes? Will this help houseplants, woody plants (trees and shrubs), etc. growing in containers?

thank you.

John

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 03.01.2011 at 05:15 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2011 at 05:15 pm

RE: Soil pests question and my new Pothos (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: penfold2 on 02.21.2011 at 07:51 pm in House Plants Forum

Hydrogen peroxide provides extra oxygen to the root zone, and helps control harmful microbes. Here's some more info on it.

Hydrogen peroxide in containers

I don't think it would kill larger organisms like insects. I've never had a problem with bugs when growing in gritty soils. They tend to prefer fine, organic soils like decomposing peat or topsoil.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 03.01.2011 at 05:13 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2011 at 05:14 pm

RE: Soil pests question and my new Pothos (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: rhizo_1 on 02.21.2011 at 03:53 pm in House Plants Forum

Toni, hydrogen peroxide (3%) is a great 'tonic' to use on house plants and in soil. For household peroxide, add about an ounce per quart of water. You can apply this to the soil when watering or spray it on your plants.

What I DON'T know is what effect it would have on soil borne insects...not much, I wouldn't think.

Mojave can put her plants into a tub or pan and let them sit in water for an hour or so. Any critters such as centipedes, millipedes, earthworms, sowbugs, etc., will likely end up trying to escape.

Above ground pests such as mealybugs can be controlled with a solution of one part isopropyl alcohol to three parts water, and applied as a mist. Do not use this for the soil.

NOTES:

hydrogen peroxide feeding the plants
clipped on: 03.01.2011 at 05:12 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2011 at 05:12 pm

RE: Soil pests question and my new Pothos (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: hopefulauthor on 02.20.2011 at 08:15 pm in House Plants Forum

Hi Mojave. You said you found a diamond in the Pothos.. a real diamond? lol.

There are several types of Pothos. Some w/a lot of variegation, some with a little, others mostly green. Green and white and green and yellow. Even different shaped leaves.

You want my honest opinion? I think you wanted a plant so bad, you bought the Pothos for the sake of getting a plant. lol..Don't feel bad..Been there done that. Fortunately, I stopped after 200 plants..lol..Don't want duplicates or plants I'm not interested in..

Watering needs. I let soil dry a little between waterings, never keep muddy or let bottom of pot sit in water. When you water, soak the entire rootball.
When the soil looks a tad crumbly, give it another drink.

There's no set watering schedule. It depends on room temp and sun. The warmer the room, the faster soil dries.
In summer, Pothos should be placed in bright light but never south or west, direct sun. Leaves can burn.

How far away was the Pothos from the mealy'd Hoyas?? It's terrible HD sells plants packed with insects, let alone Mealy, which I find almost impossible to rid.

About your Aglaonema/Chinese Evergreen, when you bought it was the pot in or outdoors?
Sometimes milipedes are found in soil. Creepy looking things, yuck..However, it's strange you never saw them.
When the plant is watered, milipedes crawl to the top. They don't vanish in thin air. lol.
By chance, did you summer your CE outside, or repot in fresh soil?

The most common insects found in soil are Fungus Gnats, Milipedes, and Soil Mealy.
But, I wouldn't worry about, or add anything unless you see one. Insects are treated according to the type.

To prevent Fungus Gnats, don't over-water. Proper watering and fresh, circulating air is a good start. Pothos aren't humidity hogs, but too dry an environment can cause problems. They enjoy some humidity. I mist Pothos daily, and shower (foliage) in the sink, once a week.

Please, don't add Peroxide or Rubbing Alcohol in the soil.

Some people use Rubbing Alcohol when a plant gets Mealy Bug. Leaves are swiped w/the alcohol. Perhaps that's what you're thinking?

I mix a batch of household, non-chemical products and spray plants, 3-4 times a month, as a preventative.
You'll need a mister, 2-4 drops dish soap, (not Dawn) citrus peel or juice, hot pepper, preferably liquid, and garlic. I mix all ingredients, shake, and keep overnight. The following day, shake mister again, then spray plants.
Thank God my plants are insect-free.

For Scale Bug I add the same ingredients above, plus a capful of Fish Emulsion. Spray plant thoroughly.
When FE is added, leftovers must be discarded. It can't be kept overnight.

Mojave, if you're worried about pests, check your plant daily..if anything I'd be concerned about Mealy since HD's other plants were infested. Good luck, Toni

NOTES:

another recipe for scale
fish emulsion too
clipped on: 03.01.2011 at 05:10 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2011 at 05:11 pm

RE: Can you truly get rid of scales (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: rhizo_1 on 05.09.2007 at 04:10 pm in House Plants Forum

I've finally found my old family recipe for getting rid of scale insects for once and for all!

You will need:
A blender, one egg, 1/2 cup of veggie oil, 1 cup of water, 3 ounces of vodka.

In the blender, place your egg, oil, and water. Insert plant and blend on high until liquified. Drink the vodka. ;-)

NOTES:

Good idea.
clipped on: 03.01.2011 at 04:35 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2011 at 04:35 pm

RE: Can you truly get rid of scales (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: maine_cheryl_zn5 on 05.09.2007 at 03:22 pm in House Plants Forum

FYI Simple Green is a biodegradable non-toxic cleaning concentrate FMI go to the following link to read the Material Data Safety Sheet: http://www.simplegreen.com/pdfs/07_msds_simple_green_&_pad.pdf

Here is a link that might be useful: Simple Green MSDS PDF

NOTES:

Simple Green plus link to MSDS
clipped on: 03.01.2011 at 04:32 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2011 at 04:33 pm

RE: Can you truly get rid of scales (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: maine_cheryl_zn5 on 05.08.2007 at 05:32 pm in House Plants Forum

YES, completely. But not with alcohol, insecticidal soap, ultrafine oils, systemic insecticides, q-tips dipped in anything, etc. None of those ever worked for me and believe me I tried. Several months ago I conquered a nine yr battle with scale on my potted lime tree. It spends summer outdoors and is infested every fall. A local greenhouse recommended a liberal spraying with Simple Green cleaner diluted according to label directions 30 to 1, I think. I sprayed twice, 2 weeks apart for good measure and have been scale free for 4 months. I will spray periodically when the tree goes back outdoors in June. I would recommend that you test spray a few leaves to see how each plant reacts to the Simple Green. Citruses have thick leaves and weren't affected at all. If you are considering tossing the plant, you have nothing to lose. Good luck!

NOTES:

Simple Green
clipped on: 03.01.2011 at 04:31 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2011 at 04:31 pm

RE: Can you truly get rid of scales (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: hopefulauthor on 04.29.2007 at 07:44 pm in House Plants Forum

Ramie, after trying the mouthwash, (if that doesn't work) why not try Fish Emulsion? I swear, it makes a difference..Just add 1 capful of FE to a spray mister..spray thoroughly..Not only does it work to rid scale, but a foliar fertilizer, too..Toni

NOTES:

fish emulsinon
clipped on: 03.01.2011 at 04:30 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2011 at 04:30 pm

Addendum (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: windeaux on 04.19.2007 at 09:58 am in House Plants Forum

I just located the thread where I first learned of the mouthwash treatment. If you've an interest in the off-beat, check it out. ;)

Here is a link that might be useful: Witches' Brews & Sorcerers' Potions

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.01.2011 at 04:30 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2011 at 04:30 pm

RE: Can you truly get rid of scales (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: hopefulauthor on 04.15.2007 at 05:32 pm in House Plants Forum

Ramie, first isolate all plants with scale, they will travel to neighboring plants.
I have an olive tree that continuously had scale. I don't know why they chose this plant to hang on, but they doted on it and it was pretty infested.
It took time, but I went over the whole plant and hand-picked all visible scale. I used cotton balls and rubbing alcohol and swiped 'every' leaf. It took time, but saving the plant was important..
I also used an oil (can't recall which one) and misted whole plant..This happened two yrs ago and since there's nary a scale. My olive is tree shaped, so it's much easier to work with then bushy type plants, but if you intend on ridding these pesty bugs, it's going to take work.
Like w/any plant, I think it's important to improve the environment..fresh air and humidity.
If your plants are small to medium sized, carrying to sink and hosing off once a wk is a big start..Good luck, and don't give up..Toni

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.01.2011 at 04:14 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2011 at 04:14 pm

RE: Building My Irish Shed (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: camaria on 11.24.2008 at 12:19 am in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

Songbird, the cost of the shed was $1600.00 (canadian) including everything down to the last bolt! If your son were to tackle a guest cabin, I would probably recommend thicker walls. Our shed has 6" walls. Most cordwood buildings meant for occupation have 18" walls (sounds quite thick I know!) Instead of running mortar all the way through like we did, these structures only mortar on the outside and inside edges of the logs, and in between they stuff the space with sawdust for insulation. So, if you were looking down on the wall while building it, you'd see a middle layer of sawdust, sandwiched between two borders of mortar. These buildings are very well insulated, because of the sawdust layer and the extra wall thickness.

Our shed, not so much!

NOTES:

Entire thread is great. Go to first one to see photos of it. Lovely.
clipped on: 02.27.2011 at 09:22 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2011 at 09:22 pm

Built-ins installed

posted by: wi-sailorgirl on 02.21.2011 at 11:18 pm in Smaller Homes Forum

Awhile ago I asked for some opinions on my design for the built-ins in our bedroom and people here were very helpful. I haven't had a lot of time to hang out here (I'm bound and determined to finish up the projects in this house before gardening season comes around), but I wanted to stop in to show you how they look now.

Photobucket

Photobucket

Obviously they need to be painted (which I'll do as soon as I finish the stairs). I probably made the dresser portion a little too high, but I think it's OK. And the window seat looks shrimpy but I'll put a 4-inch cushion on it like I did in my kitchen so it should end up about 21 inches high and quite comfy. The bookshelf type thing over the top of the window was a last-minute add on because I felt we needed something to bridge the gap between the two sides of the built-in. It's very high and I won't be able to reach it without a step ladder so not the most functional thing in the world, but more storage is always good in a small house, right?

I'm pretty excited about it. And the drawers are all full extension so you can actually get to those last 3 inches in the back of the drawer! It's the first decent "dresser" I've had since I was a little kid.

But this is what I have to finish before I'm allowing myself to work on the built-ins: the staircase from hell.

Photobucket

Some previous owner painted over the dark stained and polyurethaned risers, but failed to sand or prime first so they've been a mess since we moved in and I finally decided to make it right once and for all. Not fun. It's going to make painting those built-ins downright fun!

NOTES:

A really high triangular shaped wall and the solution to storage problems. Done beautifully, with a window seat to boot. Really really lovely design that could be adapted to almost any space.
clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 09:54 am    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 09:56 am

RE: Girl + Nail Gun=Changes (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: young-gardener on 02.21.2011 at 08:11 am in Smaller Homes Forum

Moc- I'm going to look into that. I sounds like it would be great for the wall we're going to be opening up soon. :)

Shades and Marti (on the gun)- I bought an Arrow nail (brad) gun. It's very light with little kickback. The tripper was so sensitive that I switched the gun to off nonstop because I was afraid I'd accidentally set it off when I didn't mean to. I was pleasantly surprised. It seemed to be designed more for a woman than a man. They make a 29 dollar model that does small brads and several sizes of staples. And, they make a 59 dollar model that does 4 sizes of brads.

Gotta run, but I'll get the material and process stuff up soon. In the meantime, here is my inspiration:

Next, I want to try to reconfigure the shelves to the left of the fireplace. ;)

NOTES:

Some great inspirations here.
The columns/posts supporting where the walls were removed I imagine. The blue/white could almost change my mind about the color blue in a room.The putty colored woodwork with white walls, very much neutral yet very much alive.
The cove ceiling, soffit all around the room, give it a really intimate feel.Now where is the view of the kitchen beyond the partial sighting of the hanging copper pots?
clipped on: 02.21.2011 at 09:50 am    last updated on: 02.21.2011 at 09:55 am

RE: Best storage ideas! (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: shelayne on 02.20.2011 at 12:13 am in Smaller Homes Forum

Check out this idea for an ironing board. I just watched the video, and it looks really cool. It would be really nice for small spaces because it can move 180 degrees.

http://www.betterlifestyleproducts.com/?gclid=CIm8_vf6lacCFcbsKgodmXracw

Here is a link that might be useful: fold away ironing board

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.20.2011 at 11:29 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2011 at 11:29 pm

RE: Best storage ideas! (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: shelayne on 02.19.2011 at 05:44 pm in Smaller Homes Forum

Here are the photos of my open drawers I said I would post. Since this thread is about storage, here is how I store a bunch of stuff right in my dining area.

With banquette drawers open"
Photobucket

The above is with all three drawers open. The black box in the bottom of the photo is a fabric box that is 22.5" wide, 17" deep and 12" high--it contains table linens, platters, vases, coffee carafes, candles, and spare IKEA drawer parts. That white thing in the middle drawer is a rather sizable bread machine--just to give you an idea of how wonderful these are for storage.

This is a close-up of the drawer that is opened every day--sometimes many times. Those are big Costco packs--that's why I usually call it the Costco drawer LOL.
Photobucket

I also have a pantry drawer in my peninsula for dry stores. These IKEA drawers hold a lot of stuff. I am very impressed with the whole system.

NOTES:

Window seat fantastic, IKEA drawer fronts and cabs are what I've wanted for a couple of years now. Getting them will be the challenge.
clipped on: 02.20.2011 at 10:53 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2011 at 10:55 pm

RE: Greenhouse pics (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: boomantoo on 10.31.2010 at 05:48 am in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

Very nice greenhouse. Only thing is I hope you have room to add on. Because after the first year of doing this you will wish it was twice as big. This being my second year I'm already building mine twice as big. Try this, If using water barrels for heat sinks raise fish in the barrels and you will have free fertilizer all year round. I raise tilapia, koi, goldfish and mosquito fish. I have(3)55 gallon barrels and 1 in ground pond 4 ft deep 10 x 3 with waterfall run by deep cycle battery and a bilge pump, recharged by solar panels and it never stops running. Not to mention all of the plants and propagations I've got going. Greenhouse gardening is awesome and mostly free. I catch all the rain off the roof to water plants and put fresh water in the tanks. I use the fertilized water to water all the plants in the yard and greenhouse. Fish will eat algea and duckweed so thats free food for them. It works trust me. And most of all have fun as I know you will. Bamboo love that water.

NOTES:

fish make fertilizer in the pond water which also feeds the plants in greenhouse.
NEAT idea for KOI.
clipped on: 11.26.2010 at 11:26 pm    last updated on: 11.26.2010 at 11:28 pm

RE: My Riga Greenhouse (lots of pics) (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: karin_mt on 11.23.2010 at 10:21 am in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

Dr H,

Yours sounds like a truly cold climate. We are having such an early start to the frigid temps this year, it does make you wonder if the La Nina forecasts will play out. So, do people garden up there or is the growing season too short?

This spring I was particularly amazed at the huge array of tomato plants for sale at all the nurseries here. Thousands of plants for sale - and yet - only a tiny chance of actually getting any fruit from them. I guess that shows how optimistic we all are! I do see hoop houses becoming more popular though, which would increase your chances of getting a red tomato.

Lily,
Agreed, cooling is a challenge in the summer. It took me awhile to get that sorted out. We have 50% shade cloth on the roof and west side only. In addition to the roof vents, I open the front door and the large back window. I have two box fans for air flow. Then I put in a misting system which is very effective.

I made the misting system with emitters plus tubing. It has 3 nozzles along the crest of the ceiling, spaced 3 feet apart. Thanks to this forum, I found a great timer which was the hardest thing to locate. With all these cooling strategies I can easily keep the temps in the mid-90s at the most. Things cool off a lot at night, which helps too.

This morning it is 2 below outside and 26 degrees inside underneath the frost blankets. Chilly, but warm enough for the plants to survive.

BTW, I found great fabric for frost blankets at Joann's fabrics. Its a white felt made from recycled soda bottles. It's fluffy and lightweight and seems to work great. I just went back to get more since the one piece I got last year always seemed to be in high demand.

NOTES:

peripheral equipment for keeping things cool or warm as need be.
clipped on: 11.26.2010 at 11:01 pm    last updated on: 11.26.2010 at 11:02 pm

RE: My Riga Greenhouse (lots of pics) (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: karin_mt on 11.20.2010 at 07:13 pm in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

We use the greenhouse primarily to grow food. We enjoy experimenting with various methods to grow tasty produce while avoiding pests and taking advantage of natural warmth.

This past spring, we perfected the art of the "lettuce factory," which is a simple windowbox hanging from chains. We have found many advantages to growing greens this way. We also have a "pesto factory" (which was the original) along with spinach and mixed greens. We call them factories because they produce so much!

NOTES:

hanging planters for winter veggies.
clipped on: 11.26.2010 at 10:57 pm    last updated on: 11.26.2010 at 10:58 pm

RE: best deck preservative??? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: pressurepros on 09.16.2005 at 07:39 am in Porches & Decks Forum

You cannot get your redwood deck to ever look like finished hardwood flooring. It's just an unrealistic expectation. Even if you could, it wouldn't last more than a couple of months.

You need to use a high quality, penetrating oil formulation from a paint store (not Home Depot or Lowes) Brand names would be TWP, Cabot's, Deckscapes, Sikkens (SRD formula) or maybe even Olympic Maximum (not plain Olympic which is junk) Do not, by any stretch, use CWF, Behr, or Thompsons. You also cannot use any type of tung oil or plain oil rub. The deck will covered in black and green mold in very short time, shortening the life of the deck.

When you are done building the deck, you will need to find a sodium percarbonate based cleaner (Wolman's makes one) Follow that with an oxalic based pH balance/brightener (Cabot's makes one).

Your desire to not have to seal every year is a long shot if you are sealing it yourself. It can be done every two years if your prep and cleaning is perfect, the wood is in the right pH balance range when applying the oil sealer, you use the right technique for proper sealer penetration, you use a very high quality product, and if you're enviroment isn't too harsh. If you get frequent rain/high sun cycles you can count on doing it every year for the type of aesthetic you are seeking.

NOTES:

what to use on decks
clipped on: 03.09.2010 at 03:34 pm    last updated on: 03.09.2010 at 03:34 pm

quick ikea question for ikea experts

posted by: remodelfla on 02.25.2010 at 07:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Do the base cabs for IKEA only come in 12" and 24" depth? We're discovering that my end cab on the window run should be narrower to allow for an adequate walkway by the frig. Here's the layout again. I'm referring to the end 18" cab. I may decide to make that one a 24" narrow depth cab. Also,instead of a corner unit I"m getting a blind corner. That will allow me a 12" drawer unit next to the cooktop.
final layout
I am going to redo the layout to show exact sizes. I have to redo everything cause my hard drive crashed and I lost everything. The only picture I have is the one saved to photobucket and I can't tweak that.

NOTES:

Thread has discussion on hacking the cabs from IKEA and the roll out pantries.
clipped on: 02.26.2010 at 01:33 am    last updated on: 02.26.2010 at 01:34 am

RE: Raised Beds, how if not treated wood (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: gardengal48 on 01.24.2010 at 09:18 pm in Organic Gardening Forum

It would depend on the type of wood used - some is just naturally more rot resistant and can be used for many years before it starts to rot. And since the CCA-treated wood is now off the market, non-toxic treated alternatives are available: C-A (Copper Azole, sold under the trade name Natural Select; sometimes formulated as CBA, copper boron azole) and ACQ (Alkaline Copper Quartenary, sold under the trade names Preserve or NatureWood.) Or you can use recycled wood-plastic timber products that will last forever (or nearly so) without rotting.

I'm not sure what kind of info you are finding about bricks leaching "bad things" but I think it overstates the case to a large degree - even the migration of toxic substances from CCA-trated wood into the soil is pretty minimal and it's difficult to consider any masonry material creating problems - standard 8"x8"x16" concrete builders blocks or self-locking wall blocks are often used. Or you can go upscale and use natural dry-stack stone.

Here is a link that might be useful: recommendations for raised beds.

NOTES:

treated wood chemicals
clipped on: 02.09.2010 at 10:50 am    last updated on: 02.09.2010 at 10:51 am

Raised Beds, how if not treated wood

posted by: brightstars on 01.24.2010 at 01:36 pm in Organic Gardening Forum

Would like to make some of my garden into raised beds - for my back. Working with organic gardening, so it is said that we should not use treated wood. Well, bricks also leach bad things into the garden. Can't think of anything else to use. Suggestions ?? Thanks

NOTES:

tells how the beds can be made, what materials go into the framework.
clipped on: 02.09.2010 at 10:48 am    last updated on: 02.09.2010 at 10:49 am