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Great Soapstone Overview

posted by: wags848 on 04.05.2014 at 06:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

I discovered this post on a blog & wanted to share. I think it's a good overview of the pros & cons of soapstone, written by a soapstone owner. My soapstone island is being installed next week; I found this blog post to be very informative & helpful.

http://fortheloveofahouse.blogspot.com/

Has anyone used the Real Milk Paint Co. Soapstone Sealer recommended in the post and had similar results? I'm somewhat concerned about using mineral oil, as it contains VOCs and is a petroleum derivative. Also wondering if anyone has used other types of products to oil their soapstone...olive oil, vegetable oil, etc. Thanks for any input!

Here is a link that might be useful: Soapstone

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clipped on: 04.08.2014 at 02:21 am    last updated on: 04.08.2014 at 02:22 am

RE: Anyone Dislike Their Memory Foam Mattress? (Follow-Up #88)

posted by: deeageaux on 02.17.2013 at 11:47 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I have slept on memory foam for about 15 years.

Right now I have a DIY mattress.

6" HD LUX 2.5 lbs base foam by foambymail.com

4" Aerus 4 lbs by foamex

2" Venus 8 lbs by foamex

Generic terrycloth cover.

About $1200 for King

All made in the USA.

Made in China major offgasing.

Made in USA minimal offgassing particularly foam made by Foamex and Tempurpedic.

Any bedding with fire retardant chemicals will offgas .

The only way to get bedding without fire retardant chemicals is to get a note from a doctor saying you are hyper allergic to fire retardant chemicals and buy bedding from an allergy store.

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clipped on: 04.02.2014 at 06:23 pm    last updated on: 04.02.2014 at 06:23 pm

Question for Paint Color Experts

posted by: kswl on 03.14.2014 at 09:54 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

We're having a difficult time with paint colors for the basement renovation. The two rooms (and bath) have little in common except continuous brick flooring which runs through the entire space. The front, smaller, room has 10 ft ceilings, a window and a French door. It opens up to a large space with an 8.5' ceiling which is approximately 28 feet wide and 16 feet deep, narrowing with a jog in both side walls to a nook that is about 12' x 12'. At the end of that nook will be a fireplace with a mantel and shallow shelves for DVDs. That is about 5 feet high, and above it is drywall up to 6" crown molding. The wall above the mantel will hold a 60" tv screen. The fireplace and shelves will be faced with 3" tongue and groove paneling. Both rooms have 8" baseboard.

First proposal was to paint everything---all molding and woodwork and walls a dark color. While I like this idea in principle, it is just TOO DARK. Alternatively, I like the idea of painting the fireplace woodwork a darker color than the walls but feel if I do that I would have to paint the baseboards and crown on that wall the darker color also, otherwise we would have one baseboard color, then a paneling color above that, a wall color, then the baseboard color again on the crown.....WAY too much for an eight and a half foot wall, IMO.

So, i am thinking i will find a light latte color with a yellow undertone for the walls and go slightly lighter with the molding and woodwork. I had some leftover paint SW Kestrel White, which we used in my office and I love, so I tried it in the back room. It has a light nutty color back there (completely different from how it looks in my office btw) and I really like it for the walls. However, in the front room it looks PEACH. Cannot have that.

Finally, the question. The RGB value of the Kestrel White is
R-224 G-214 B-201 I need a color slightly lighter than this but with the same color ratio. Knowing that the differences in these values drops 10 between R and G and 13 between G and B, can I just look for a paint that has those same differences and end up with a lighter version? For example, if I look for a paint that is R- 238 G-228 B-241 what will I find and how can I find a color that way?

And then when I have those colors in place I will have to find different colors that look very similar in the front room all over again.

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clipped on: 03.18.2014 at 10:19 am    last updated on: 03.18.2014 at 10:20 am

RE: Did you purchase aftermarket cabinet accessories/parts? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bob_cville on 03.15.2014 at 12:10 am in Kitchens Forum

I haven't posted these here for some time, and the old posts have dropped the bottom of the list, but rather than buying some aftermarket drawer dividers I followed advice I received here, and bought brass drawer divider clips from Lee Valley Tools and bought 1/4" thick boards from Lowes, and made custom drawer dividers, that fit my silverware, and utensils perfectly.

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clipped on: 03.15.2014 at 10:10 am    last updated on: 03.15.2014 at 10:11 am

RE: Yellow help!! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: funcolors on 10.21.2013 at 04:41 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

If the BM fan deck cards are any indication of undertones (by looking at the most saturated color per section?)

Paint companies, including BenM, do not order their color by undertones for several reasons but these are the two most critical:

1. Undertone is revealed when the medium (paint) is spread at different thicknesses or rates. Fine Artists will leverage undertones to get multiple effects from one color. All architectural paint brands specify a spread rate or consistent thickness for the paint film; it's never spread thickly or thinly where an undertone (if there is one) could be leveraged. The goal with architectural paints is one, very even application of paint film.

2. a. Some colors do not have an undertone. b. Undertone isn't a measurable attribute of color. Ask a color scientist about undertone and he/she will ask you to clarify what you mean by undertone before they'll even attempt to speak to it. That's because the concept of undertone isn't a consistent, measurable, repeatable factor of color.

Undertones are not attributes of architectural paint nor any industry that uses a professional color order system - like flooring, textiles, counter tops, etc. for the reasons above plus many more.

There are a handful of professional color order systems that a manufacturer can choose from. They're all slightly different. But all of them have one very important thing in common which is their fandecks or palettes are ordered by color family.

Both the Classic Colors deck and the Color Preview deck start with red. Red, Yellow-Red (orange), Yellow, Green-Yellow, Green, Blue-Green, Blue, Purple-Blue, Purple, Red-Purple.

It's important to note that color strips and fandecks are not ordered for any kind of color scheming or color coordination purposes.

However, they are indeed in color family order and by looking at the position of You Are My Sunshine and Ambiance in the deck, you can see that the are both located closer to the Yellow-Red (orange) family, right before the start of the Yellow family color chips. Which means they both will have more of a yellow-red hue bias than a yellow hue bias.

Unlike undertone, every color has an identifiable hue bias. Because every color belongs to a color family.

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clipped on: 02.11.2014 at 09:45 am    last updated on: 02.11.2014 at 09:46 am

soapstone before/after rehoning

posted by: farmgirlinky on 06.25.2011 at 11:42 am in Kitchens Forum

Hope this is useful to some soapstone folks. We were overall happy with our Jucca soapstone counters from Dorado, but I was bothered by the higher-than-expected sheen after dry waxing, which had the advantage of making the iron and quartz veining "pop" more, but also made the counters easier to visibly scratch (scratches in the wax?) and perhaps more likely to have watermarks trapped under wax. I wanted a more traditional soapstone feel, and through remodelfla and others, reached Joshua of Creative Stone in Florida, who put me in touch with a former colleague of his in Pennsylvania, David Mellinger (267-644-8388) who just happened to be passing through Connecticut one week later. He rehoned our counters and oiled them with Clark Stanley's Snake Oil Liniment (=mineral oil), and we are thrilled with the difference. He sanded first with 80 grit, then with 150 grit. Water was involved in the final stages, too, but I was in the office when it happened and can't cite chapter and verse.) We are now officially thrilled with the soapstone instead of pleased/anxious. The veining is more subtle, but that's fine. At the risk of boring those who have seen pictures from this kitchen ad nauseum: the first two pictures are before rehoning, the latter are after rehoning:

BEFORE REHONING, WAXED WITH DORADO DRY WAX

Photobucket

BEFORE ETC.

Photobucket

AFTER REHONING, OILED WITH MINERAL OIL

Photobucket

AFTER REHONING, ETC.

Photobucket

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rehoning soapstone
clipped on: 01.18.2014 at 09:10 pm    last updated on: 01.18.2014 at 09:11 pm

RE: How to size Low Profile Picture light? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: AnnieDeighnaugh on 01.16.2014 at 05:18 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I'd go with the 30".

See the chart in the article below....

Here is a link that might be useful: Light buying guide

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Sizing picture lights
clipped on: 01.16.2014 at 06:42 pm    last updated on: 01.16.2014 at 06:43 pm

RE: Height between pantry shelves? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: buehl on 01.16.2009 at 12:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is what we did in our corner step-in pantry:

[The MW, btw, didn't fit so it is not in the pantry as originally planned.]


Also, SharB once posted her measurements but the thread has long since fallen off. I saved them and here they are:

+++

[Sharb's] pantry measures 4 feet wide by 5 feet deep.
Starting at the top:

18" top shelf to ceiling (Things I don't need often or are lightweight.)
15" to next shelf (cereal boxes, etc.)
10" to next (canned goods, etc.)
10" to next (canned goods, etc.)
16" to next (small appliances)
20" from bottom shelf to floor (extra waters, heavy items)

The depth of the back shelf and the right side 12". The left side is 6" and holds my [SharB's] husband's hot sauces and other small items.

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clipped on: 01.11.2014 at 09:40 am    last updated on: 01.11.2014 at 09:40 am

RE: Everything I Wanted to Know About Drawers... (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: angela12345 on 02.02.2013 at 02:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have posted this other places before, but I am going to try to consolidate it *all* in one place.

My kitchen cabinets from UltraCraft are semi-custom. LOVE them. They are Frameless cabinets that allow size modifications in 1/16" increments to height, width, and depth (or all 3) at no additional cost. So, go ahead and make your uppers 13" or 14" deep for those extra large mixing/salad bowls and charger plates, and maximize your storage space for example storing glasses 4 deep instead of 3 deep. Have deeper base cabinets. Make your toekick slightly shorter so you have an extra inch or two for more drawers height. Cut down on the fillers you need by making your cabinets the exact width you need them, instead of being forced to choose from 3" increments. I like that all my uppers are flat across the bottom (no frame/dividers between cabinets), so I could install one long plugmold and one long under cabinet light, then hide it all with lightrail at the front. Also, standard is Blum full extension soft close drawer glides, soft close doors, no charge for finished sides (like end of cabinet run), all dovetail drawers with fully captured bottoms, and bunches of other stuff is standard. 100 year warranty.
http://www.ultracraft.com/ Yep, I LOVE them !!!

Cabinet Decisions - I emailed this part to a friend recently, so am copying here ...
1. One of the first things to decide is what cabinet door overlay you want. Inset doors or overlay doors ? Inset doors sit inside of the cabinet box frame rather than attached to the front of the cabinet box. Overlay is further broken down into traditional overlay, partial / modified overlay, and full overlay and determines how much of the cabinet box/frame behind the door you want to show (traditional overlay shows the most of the cabinet box & frame, full overlay shows the least). The hinges can be exposed or concealed for all overlay styles except full overlay which only allows for concealed hinges. The overlay you choose will automatically knock out some cabinet options and cabinet mfgs who may not make that type of cabinet. (My cabinets are full overlay)
See ... http://www.hansoncustombuilders.com/questions3.html
And ...http://www.kraftmaid.com/learn/choose-right-cabinetry/door-overlays/

2. Then you want to decide on the cabinet boxes ... framed or frameless ? Some mfgs only make one or the other, but not both, so this will knock out other mfgs. Framed cabinets have a frame on the face of the cabinet box that the doors attach to and allows for inset doors as well as all 3 overlay styles (traditional, partial, and full overlay). On frameless, the doors attach directly to the cabinet box sides instead of a face frame. Frameless are typically full overlay, but inset is also possible. I think a small partial overlay is possible on frameless if you are using semi-custom or custom cabinets - you would order slightly smaller doors so a little of the cabinet box would show. Traditional overlay is not possible on frameless because the cabinet box sides are not wide enough to show the traditional 1"-2" of the face frame. (My cabinets are frameless)
See ... http://www.cabinets.com/FORM/THE BOX - construction.asp

The disadvantage of framed is you give up useable space in drawers/pullouts and ease of access on cabinets with doors. This is because the drawer or pullout has to clear the face frame that goes around the opening, so they are narrower from side to side and also shallower from top to bottom. In a small kitchen, the extra useable space from frameless could make a big difference. Estimates say frameless gives 10-15% more space, so 100 inches of framed would be 110 inches in frameless. To me, an extra 10 inches of drawer space is huge, especially when you don't have much to begin with !! Frameless cabinets with doors also offer easier access - there is no face frame creating a 1-2" obstruction on the left, right, and top inside the cabinet doors, also there is typically no center stile between double doors in frameless.

For full overlay doors, there is very little difference in the looks of framed vs frameless. From an exterior appearance standpoint, these cabinets will basically look alike. Because the doors are full overlay, you don't see much or any of the frame and would have to open the door or drawer to see if the cabinet was framed or frameless. For inset doors, the framed cabinets would have a wider frame around the door than the frameless cabinet would.

In the below two pics, the cabinet on the left is framed, and the one on the right is frameless. Looking only at the size of the opening, see how the drawer for frameless is wider from left to right and also has more open space from top to bottom. The useable drawer space is a couple inches more in each direction in the frameless. If they both had the same size full overlay exterior drawer face on them, they would look alike from the exterior. You would not be able to see the useable interior space until you opened the drawer.

As catbuilder said, the space for inset would be the same, depending on which you use. In other words, it doesn't matter if the framed cabinet on the left had overlay or inset, the actual drawer space would be the same no matter what door style was used on this cabinet. And, if the frameless on the right had overlay or inset, the actual drawer space would be the same for that cabinet. If they both had inset doors, you can see that the framed cabinets would have a much wider "frame" around the door and drawer openings.

3. The third thing to consider is the cosmetics ... the door style you like, the drawer style (slab/flat/plain drawer front or drawer front that matches your door style), as well as wood species (cherry, oak, maple, etc), and stain or paint colors, glazing, distressing, finish/sheen, etc. (My cabinets are slab drawer, raised panel door, cherry with a chestnut stain, no additional finishes or glazes)
This website shows just a few of the different door styles available ... http://www.cabinets.com/FORM/THE DOOR - style.asp

4. The fourth thing to consider is stock cabinets vs semi-custom vs custom cabinet mfgs. Stock cabinets are available in 3" width increments (cabinets have to be width of 12", 15", 18", etc), filler strips fill in gaps between cabinets and wall or appliances, you have to choose from the heights and depths they offer, and there are very few options available, which can be pretty pricey to add on. Semi-custom cabinets vary by manufacturer in what customizations and options they offer, but they offer many more options than stock and allow sizing modifications. With custom cabinets, there should be no limitations including drawings for non-standard items, custom molding profiles, door styles, alternate wood species, custom stains & finishes, construction, accessories and options. (My cabinets are semi-custom)

5. Finally, you want to consider the cabinet construction. Not that this is the least important ! It is one of the most important things. Pretty much all the other stuff is just the "pretty" stuff, LOL. This has to do with how well the cabinets are made - are the drawers stapled, dowelled, glued, dovetail ? What materials are the cabinets made of ? etc, etc.

Drawer depths
My bases are 24" deep bases and are all 20" useable interior from front to back. I'm pretty sure I could have (and definitely should have!) requested the drawers be an extra 1-2 inches deep to fill up the inside of the cabinet. I *think* the full extension glides would not have pulled out that extra inch or so, but I could have lived with that !! I was already used to my drawers not pulling out for the back 4 inches anyway with the cabinets I already had. I could have fit my 8qt stock pots 2 deep front to back in the drawer instead of having to offset them slightly in the drawer if I had even an extra 1/2".

Some people choose to have their base cabinets deeper (i.e. 27-30" deep instead of 24" deep standard) from front to back for a number of different reasons, for example to make the front of the cabinet even with the front of the refrigerator so the standard fridge looks like a built in/counter depth. Or they may want a larger countertop work surface. This can be accomplished by using deeper base cabinets or by using standard 24" deep bases and installing them a couple inches out from the wall then covering the full space with the countertop material. If you want to do this and order deeper bases, be sure to specify the drawers are deeper from front to back as well ! Some mfgs will still only install the standard depth drawer even though the cabinet box is larger.
(in pics below, my two standard $500 ea fridges look counter depth by recessing the wall behind the fridges only)

Drawer Heights
You can get a number of different drawer combinations ... for example two drawer could be 6-24 or 15-15, three drawer could be 6-12-12 or 6-9-15, four drawer could be 6-6-6-12 or 6-6-9-9, five drawer could be 6-6-6-6-6. These are just examples of size combinations ! I have even seen linens in 8 shallow pullouts behind doors in one base cabinet.

The height of my drawer fronts do not line up all the way around the 4 sides of my kitchen, but do line up when you are looking at any one section at a time. I have 2 stacks together that are 6-12-12 separated by a stove. On the opposite corner of the kitchen are 2 stacks that are 6-6-9-9. What helps is that my stacks are caddy-cornered across the kitchen with appliances and base cabinets with doors separating them ... it would be very hard to look in any direction where you could see the "mis-matches" at one time. Some people have drawer stacks right next to each other where the drawer heights do not 'line up' and others have all the drawer bases in their entire kitchen with the exact same horizontal lines all the way around.

My one advice ... find out the interior useable height of your drawers ahead of time. My Ultracraft cabinets are frameless so have more than framed would. They have undermount glides. On the 6-12-12 stacks, the useable interior drawer height is 4, 10.5, 9.5 (top to bottom on stack). Where this becomes an issue ... I wanted to store all of my pans, pots, etc vertical on their edges in the drawers so they wouldn't have to be stacked. The middle 10.5" drawers are tall enough for all of the casserole/baking dishes and pie tins, the roasting pan, and almost all of the pans, pots, and lids to stand on edge (the 9.5" drawers are not tall enough for a couple of those items to stand on edge). Both height drawers are definitely tall enough for all of the big pots (even the 8qt stockpot) that I own, except for the huge "canning" pot which is on the top shelf of one of my 15" deep uppers.

Obviously, neither drawer is tall enough for my 12" pans/skillets to stand on edge (arrggh!). I have really been struggling with how to store these. Right now I have them flat in the bottom of the 9.5" height bottom drawer. Big waste of real estate !! I wish I had a shallower drawer I could put the big skillets in, like 6-6-6-12 so the frying pans were flat in drawers 2 & 3 and the pots were in the bottom drawer. Or even better(?!) if I had made my drawer heights 6-9-15 that would have given me 4, 7.5, 12.5 useable. My tallest 8qt pots are 7" tall, so all of them could have gone in the middle drawer and everything on edge could have gone in the bottom drawer (including the 12" skillets!). Google for images of drawers with pans on edge.

On the other side of the kitchen with the 6-6-9-9 stacks, the useable interior drawer height is 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 (top to bottom). I use the top 6" drawers all around the kitchen for silverware, spatulas and all the other kitchen gadgets, in-drawer knife block, foil wax paper cling wrap and plastic baggies, potholders, dish towels, etc. All of those things fit with no problem in these drawers including the ladle and the box grater. The 3rd drawer holds all of the tupperware and is the perfect height for this - 6 would have been too shallow and 12 would have been too deep. The bottom drawer is where we currently keep the paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.

(note: the interior drawer heights listed above vary slightly for the bottom two 12" drawers, the top two 6" drawers, and for the bottom two 9" drawers because of an interior cross support and space to clear the granite without scraping at the top. Jakuvall addresses this below "Note that some brands use intermediate stretchers in frameless which take up 3/4" vertical clearance. If they do I always spec them to be removed.")

ALSO: the drawer face to interior useable space ratio will be DIFFERENT depending on if your drawer face is inset, partial overlay, or full overlay, and depending on if you have undermount glides or sidemount glides as catbuilder says above. For example on my 6-6-9-9 four drawer stack ... 1.5" counter + 6 + 6 + 9 + 9 + 4.5" toekick = 36" finished height. My useable heights are 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 = 22.5" total useable height. I lose 1.25-2.25" useable height for each drawer.
Compare to quiltgirl above inset drawers ... 1.5" counter + 5.5 + 5.5 + 6.25 + 6.25 + 4.5 toekick (assumed) = 29.5". Are her cabinets shorter than mine ? No ! Add in between each of her drawers approx 1.25" face frame. She has undermount glides as well so her useable heights are 4, 4, 4.75, 4.75 = 17.5" total useable height. She only loses 1.5" useable height for each drawer face showing so it sounds like she is losing less, but she is also losing useable height in the face frame between each drawer which is why her total useable space is less.
This is FINE !! Nothing at all against her cabinets. They will be beautiful. Inset is a gorgeous look. And she knew she was going to lose space with the inset when she chose them, but chose to do it because inset is the look she loves.

Drawer widths
The maximum cabinet width my manufacturer will do for drawer bases is 36" wide. I have 4 drawer bases at 21", 32", 17", and 36" wide. The interior useable width of these drawer bases are 18, 29, 14, 33 wide, so 3" less than the exterior width in each.

 photo 4-5-11-kitchen.jpg
Going around my kitchen ... first I have a 6" wide pullout broom closet. Next are two 30" wide fridge/top freezers. There are full depth cabinets above the fridges with an adjustable shelf. Then a 24" full height cabinet with pantry space at the top, MW, a single oven, and 6" high drawer under oven (4.5" useable height).

The 21" 3 drawer 6-12-12 is to the left of my stove. Top drawer holds knife block, sharpener, scissors, trivets, potholders. 2nd drawer holds baking dishes on their edge. Bottom drawer is basically empty - it has one 8qt stockpot. If my drawer heights had been 6-9-15 instead (did I say grrrr?), I would have used the middle drawer as a bread drawer and stored the bakeware on edge in the bottom drawer.

Next is the stove (Whirlpool GGE388LXS Electric Range w/Dbl ovens).
This stove is now available with an induction top which is what I would have gotten if it had been available at the time WGI925C0BS http://www.whirlpool.com/kitchen-1/cooking-2/ranges-3/-[WGI925C0BS]-1021750/WGI925C0BS/

The 32" 3 drawer 6-12-12 is to the right of the stove. Top drawer holds spatulas, spoons, ladles, wood spoons, basting brushes, meat thermometer, etc - things that are used at the stove. 2nd drawer holds frying pans, the smaller pots (1qt 2qt 3qt), and lids all on their edges. Bottom drawer holds 8qt pots. Also, the 12" skillets with lids, splatter screens, and griddle are all stacked in one stack flat in bottom of drawer, Grrrrrrr. If they were in the drawer with the other frying pans instead of taking up real estate here, that lone 8qt pot in my other cabinet would have been here with the other pots.

Turn the corner and next is the first dishwasher and then a 36" sink base with Ticor S405D sink (70/30 double bowl). LOVE !!! <3
Turn the corner and next is a 36" wide all door base cabinet (no upper drawer) with full depth adjustable shelves. I use this base cabinet for all my small appliances - blender, beaters, toaster, George Foreman, elec can opener, etc. Next to this base cabinet is the second dishwasher, followed by an 18" prep sink base with a Ticor S815 14x15x8 sink, and an empty space for an ice maker which is where the trash can currently resides.

The 17" 4 drawer stack 6-6-9-9 sits between the trash area/future ice maker and the peninsula and is on the opposite corner of the kitchen from the other drawer bases. The top drawer holds foil, wax paper, cling wrap, plastic baggies, chip clips, and restaurant menus. The 2nd drawer is our "junk" drawer and has some of everything including screwdrivers, clothespins, matches, flashlights, sewing kit, lint brush, etc. The 3rd drawer holds medicine, bandaids, alcohol, peroxide, as well as dish towels and plastic utensils from takeout restaurants in a tub. The bottom drawer is for "tupperware without partners" - bowls and lids with no matches (haha!).

The 36" 4 drawer stack 6-6-9-9 forms the peninsula. The top drawer holds all eating utensils (silverware and kid utensils), serving utensils, chopsticks, handheld can opener, wine opener in a strategically easy-to-access location : ), etc. The 2nd drawer holds all the other kitchen gadgets that aren't to the left and right of the stove like shrimp deveiners, graters, whisks, rolling pin, pizza rolling cutter-thingy, mashers, salad tongs, etc, etc. The 3rd drawer holds tupperware with their matching lids. The bottom drawer holds paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.

I don't like lazy susans or corner cabinets, so in the blind corner is a 26" all door base cabinet that opens out the backside to where the barstools sit.

Upper Cabinets
I will come back and fill this in later

Handles
We went with the same size handle for all of our drawers and also only one handle in the center for all of the drawers, no matter what the width of the drawer. They are 4" wide. We maybe would have used different widths, but the ones we liked in the finish we wanted did not come in a bunch of widths. The cabinet guy said they would look fine and they do. We have slab drawer fronts and the pulls are centered top to bottom and side to side on each drawer. We used round knobs on all doors.

Drawer Organizers
We ordered the drawer divider channels from Lee Valley so we could completely customize the interior of our drawers. They often have free shipping on orders over $40.
www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?p=40168
Google for images - lots of gardenweb members have used these.
http://www.google.com/search?q=lee+valley+dividers+site:gardenweb.com&tbm=isch
Take inventory of the things you will be storing in the drawers & doors. Measure it all and plan ahead where things will go. From the FAQs that Buehl put together ... http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg010523449014.html
Excellent information on organizing !!

These are not my cabinets ... examples of pans stored vertically ...

This is my kitchen ...
 photo 4-5-11-kitchen.jpg
A note on our kitchen ... this home is a vacation rental oceanfront beach house with 8 bedrooms, 6 baths, that sleeps 26 (send me a private message through My Page above if you are interested in renting or would like a link to see more info & pictures of the home). Hence the 2 fridges, 3 ovens, 2 dishwashers. We had a large portion of our family here at Thanksgiving (32 people) and had like 7 or 8 women working to prepare the feast all at one time. Thank you Gardenweb for helping design a kitchen that WORKS !!!

edited: mostly to decrease monster picture sizes thanks to GW changing their website coding, also clarified my wording on a couple things

This post was edited by angela12345 on Mon, Aug 26, 13 at 15:11

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clipped on: 01.09.2014 at 12:10 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2014 at 12:11 pm

RE: pizzelle? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ruthanna on 01.04.2014 at 10:58 am in Cooking Forum

Here's a recipe from former CF member Lou, who was known for his fabulous pizzelles.

Good , Light, Crispy, Delicious, Mouth Watering, To kill for,
Lou's Pizzelles
3-X large eggs
1/2 cup (1 stick ) of melted butter ( not hot )
3 tablespoons of oil
1 cup of Sugar + 3 Tablespoons
4 Teasps. of Anise Extract or 1 Teasp. Anise Oil or
Try a little less first and adjust to taste

1 3/4 cups of flour , add more to thicken
4 level, teaspoons of Baking Powder

Mix well, All the ingredients, except the Flour & Baking powder
Then add them and mix well. If you think the dough is
too soft add a little more flour.
I add until the batter peaks , ( a little stiff ) while mixing ,
and mix with a Tablespoon, to make a soft dough.
I use a Mellon Scoop, with a trigger release, to measure the dough.
I always brush the Pizzelle iron lightly with Oil when hot, before starting to Bake them.

When baking the Pizzelles pile them far away from
where you are working.
Because they are soooo Gooood you will be eating them as you go.
This will make about 40 Pizzelles,
unless didn't listen and piled them too close.
Then you will have about 3 left and gained 2 lb.
Save one for me !!!

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clipped on: 01.05.2014 at 10:19 am    last updated on: 01.05.2014 at 10:20 am

RE: Tell me how you make your beef and noodles? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ci_lantro on 01.13.2012 at 03:27 pm in Cooking Forum

I like to use beef chuck. Cut into stewing sized pieces & brown in a bit of olive oil in the pressure cooker. Then I add some stock (2-3 cups--beef or chicken) and pressure cook the meat for 12 minutes. Let the pressure drop naturally. (No pressure cooker, then the meat needs to simmer for however long it takes for it to be tender.)

After the beef is cooked, I add chopped celery, celery leaf (ground celery seed will work, too), parsley, garlic, minced onion, sliced carrot, black pepper and continue to simmer, adding stock as needed. Sometimes use a little BV or Kitchen Bouquet to beef up the juice. Also, a teaspoon or more of Vegemite really helps if you have any of that.

Continue cooking until the veggies soften up, then add noodles & 1 large can of evaporated milk. Taste to see if you need more garlic. Cook until the noodles are done.

Here's the noodle recipe that I use. It makes thick chewy noodles. Unfortunately, I can't get it to work in my pasta rolling machine so end up having to roll them out by hand:

Egg Noodles Source: "Linda" Allrecipes.com

2 1/2 cup flour
pinch salt
2 eggs, beaten
1/2 cup milk
1 T. butter

In a large bowl, stir together the flour & salt. Add the beaten egg, milk & butter. Knead dough until smoothe, about 5 minutes. Let rest in a covered bowl for 10 minutes.

On a floured surface, roll out to 1/8 to 1/4 inch thickness. Cut into desired lengths and shapes.

Allow to air dry before cooking.

Note: I use the dough cycle on my bread machine. Just dump everything into the machine & let it do the work. (I don't like to knead.)

I don't have a noodle cutter so, after I roll out the dough to the desired thickness, I roll up the sheet of dough like you would roll up jellyrolls or cinnamon rolls. I cut off slices (using a knife) the desired width. With this recipe, the noodles plump up when you cook them, so make cuts a little more narrow than what you want the cooked noodles to be.

Also, I have to cook low sodium for DH so I didn't include salt. Vegemite is pretty salty anyway, so if you use that, sneak up on any addt'l salt that you add.

This is pretty much the way that my mom always made Beef n' noodles except that she made a more eggy noodle. I like a more toothy noodle for Beef n' Noodles. Also, I double the noodle recipe. (Leave any leftover uncooked noodles to thoroughly air dry & then pkg. them up & either freeze or store in the pantry.)

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clipped on: 01.05.2014 at 08:00 am    last updated on: 01.05.2014 at 08:00 am

RE: Tell me how you make your beef and noodles? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: bradiniowa on 01.03.2014 at 05:04 pm in Cooking Forum

I use a recipe from the Iowa State Fair's Blue Ribbon Cookbook:

Ingredients:
2Lb Boneless Beef Chuck, cut into 1" cubes.
1 medium (About 1.5 Lbs) Beef soup bone. In Iowa, these are from the leg shank.
1 Carrot, pared & quartered
1 Celery Stalk with green leaves attached cut in half or thirds depending on the size.
1 Medium onion Quartered
1 Bay Leaf
1 Teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
About 8 cups water
2 Cups home made beef stock or 14.5oz store bought beef stock.
12 ounces egg noodles. NOTE! Store bought noodles just don't work well with this recipe! I make my own using 1 egg, 2 cups flour, pinch of salt & 1/8 teaspoon white pepper. (see Below)

If needed for thickening:

2 Tablespoons Flour
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup water

Method:

In a large,heavy bottomed stock pot or ceramic lined cast iron pot, add the first 8 ingredients: beef cubes, salt, pepper, bay leaf, soup bone, celery, carrot, water to cover (about 8 cups).

Cover the pot and heat over high heat until it reaches a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer until the beef cubes are fork-tender about 1 hour 15 minutes.

Remove from the heat and using a slotted spoon, remove the beef cubes and place in a bowl. Remove the soup bone and trim any lean meat, cut into bite-sized pieces, and add to the beef cubes.
Discard the bone. I usually remove the marrow and add to the stock or give the whole bone to a worthy dog.

Cover the bowl of meat and refrigerate.

Strain the remaining stock with a sieve into a bowl or Large measuring cup discarding the vegetables and bay leaf.

Measure the liquid and make a note of how much you have.

Pour the liquid into a large mixing bowl and refrigerate.

When cold, use a tablespoon or large spoon to skim the congealed fat off the top of the broth and discard the fat. Cover the remaining broth and refrigerate.

All of the previous steps can be done ahead of time, even the day before.


30 Minutes before serving:
In a large pot, add the reserved broth, and enough other stock to total 10 Cups of liquid. stir to blend.
Cover and bring to a boil over high heat.

Add the Noodles to the boiling stock/broth. boil uncovered until slightly soft (about 8 minutes) add the beef cubes, boiling briefly until heated through.

If the broth looks thick enough, like a thin gravy, you are done. If it is too thin, make the thickening out of the ingredients listed above. By adding them to a seal-able jar, cover and shake vigorously until smooth and all clumps are gone. Add this thickening sauce to the pot and simmer briskly until the broth thickens. (About 2 minutes) Serve immediately. In Iowa, they are served over mashed potatoes, but are delicious by themselves.

Egg Noodles:

On a large surface, put the 2 cups of flour in a mound, making a well in the center. Break the egg into the well, and using a fork, stir the egg only until well mixed. add the salt and white pepper to the egg. Continue stirring more and more of the flour into the egg until a dough ball begins to form. Knead until smooth, and roll out thin, dusting the board with flour to keep from sticking until the dough is about 1/8". Cut the dough into 4" strips, placing one on top of the other adding a light dusting of flour between each layer. Once all the strips are stacked, turn so you can cut the 4" side into the desired thickness. (I like about 1/4 to 3/8" thick noodles.) The finished noodles will be 4" x 1/8" x 1/4". Place the noodles on a large cookie sheet and dust well with flour to keep them separated until they are dried out, about 2-3 hours. Shake the majority of the flour off before adding the noodles to the broth.

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clipped on: 01.05.2014 at 07:59 am    last updated on: 01.05.2014 at 07:59 am

Favorite pepper for making jelly

posted by: ruthz on 01.05.2014 at 12:15 am in Hot Pepper Forum

I'd like to try making pepper jelly and would like to know your favorite kinds of pepper for this.
How different is the flavor/apperance of jalapeno and habanero pepper jelly?
If habanero is your favorite, does it matter which one?
Thanks for your help.
Will be starting my 2014 seeds in the next couple of weeks.

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clipped on: 01.05.2014 at 07:49 am    last updated on: 01.05.2014 at 07:50 am

Will you PLEASE post a link to your kitchen??

posted by: susied3 on 05.22.2012 at 04:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have to say, I've spent the last 4 days probably over 20 hours of searching, here, google, FKB, every way possible, as to NOT bother you with this, BUT, I can't find MANY kitchens that I have notes on, with questions, and thought maybe if people would post the link to their original kitchen reveal, or progress pics, it might help others with questions as well.

I have a list of TWENTY SEVEN names that I have specific questions about your kitchen! I thought maybe the link to a thread with info might answer many without having to bug everyone personally!

In addition to those 27, I already have 32 threads saved in my favorites, some have the answers, some not, so will probably have to "bug you" for those. :)

So, if you have it, will you post it? PLEASE??

And, THANK YOU!!

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links to finished kitchens
clipped on: 12.29.2013 at 01:31 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2013 at 01:32 pm

RE: My SECOND reupholstery project - le sofette! (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: maggiepie11 on 12.27.2013 at 10:03 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Here are the tutorials I found especially helpful for THIS project relating to tufting and springs:

Upholstery How To Tuft A Headboard
- although the project is a headboard, the tutorial reminded me to allow extra fabric for the depth of the button hole!

Krrb Presents A How-to on Adding Buttons to Upholstery with Tufting
although i didn't follow her technique for tufting ( i wanted a much deeper looking tuft so i cut holes in my foam for the button to sit all the way inside more like kimsupholstery video ) but it was the first tutorial i found in all my searching showing how to tuft when you don't have a wooden frame to hold the button. she used muslin here, but i used a cotton ball. the back of my sofa had only burlap, so i doubled up on the cotton ball. :)

Upholstery How To Tie Springs
- this is another tutorial from kimsupholstery... i just needed to repair a couple springs, but this non-verbal tutorial shows all the steps on how the springs and support are constructed and i found it really helpful.

i don't have a button press (Yet), so i cut circles and literally did a loose stitch around the outside, put the button in the middle and pulled the thread tight to cover my own buttons. i've never had any luck with the little button snap cover kits from fabric stores - maybe with really thin fabric, but who's upholstering with really thin fabric?!

as for your questions...

the ONLY sewing i had to do was the trim. it's actually double welt, not single piping. i made a giant continuous bias strip (for those of you who need bias strips and haven't tried the continuous method, i strongly urge you to give it a shot!!) and then used a double welt foot to sew the trim. but then the trim is just standalone and all the excess gets cut off. it looks like this (i didn't photograph the double welt from this project - this is from my first chair):

on this particular piece, the fabric was stapled all around the edges in a little notch along the decoratively carved wood. then the trim was just glued on top of it to cover the staples. i did the same, though i used high temp hot glue. you can find a non-video tutorial on making double welt here:
How To Make Double Welt Cord

and here's a video tutorial on making the continuous bias strip. she used a very small piece of fabric but you'll get the idea. i needed 15 yards, so i used 3/4 yard of fabric and mine was 60" wide!!
Continuous Bias Binding - 200" of binding from 1/2 yard of fabric!

i thought about getting fancy and stapling the trim on (instead of cutting off the excess) and then using curve ease to attach all the fabric but i'm glad i stuck with how it was previously done. it was challenging enough just stapling it along all the curves. :)

Seriously, if you don't have a compressor and pneumatic stapler, I wouldn't attempt something of this size. Even a chair with upholstered arms would be too much in my opinion. It could be that I just like my projects to move faster than molasses, and I want to retain the use of my fingers and arms. :) Try a smaller piece first, preferably one you aren't in love with or an inexpensive piece from goodwill.

it's SO rewarding when it's done. the quote I got from our local upholstery shop was $650 not including the fabric. and i'm trying to upcycle a LOT of the furniture in our new home currently under construction. so i'm saving a ton of money doing it myself. that said, it wouldn't be worth the savings if i didn't enjoy doing it because it really is a huge time commitment.

i hope you take the plunge and enjoy the process and the outcome! good luck. :) i'm not a pro at all - there are folks on the board who know a lot more than i do, but i'm happy to answer questions if i'm able to!

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clipped on: 12.28.2013 at 09:25 am    last updated on: 12.28.2013 at 09:25 am

RE: Book art (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: beaglesdoitbetter on 12.11.2013 at 02:41 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Here you go holly-kay

More pictures are also on my blog.

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clipped on: 12.12.2013 at 08:10 am    last updated on: 12.12.2013 at 08:10 am

RE: 8-Way Hand Tie - My Upholstery Project Continues! (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: laurie_2008 on 11.10.2013 at 10:49 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

yayagal - Thanks. I'm looking forward to the next steps which are less daunting!

alex9179 - I hope you post your club chair. I am glad this inspires you towards getting it done : )
Finding the right fabric takes time.

mamorella - Thanks : ) I will post the finished product, but...
it may take several weeks.....a wedding, 2 birthdays, & the Holidays.

mlweaving - I like the book Singer Upholstery Basics. I bought it at JoAnn's Fabric Store & I've seen it online.

I watched several different videos and the one that helped me the most was Kevin Kennedy's (linked below). He uses 12 oz. tacks in his video. My local upholstery supply store did not sell tacks & suggested I use their No Sag Nails. The nails worked well.

There are some helpful pictures here
http://www.designsponge.com/2011/08/upholstery-basics-constructing-coil-seats-part-i.html

equest17 - I compared the old & new edge rolls this morning & took a picture. The old one is covered in some type of burlap and the filling looks like some sort of paper or straw type fiber.
This chair has been reupholstered 2-3 times before. Maybe, it had horsehair edge roll at one time. I know I removed horsehair on one of the seat layers.

 photo Edgeroll.jpg

Here is a link that might be useful: How to Do An 8 Way Hand Tie

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recommendations for upholstery tutorials
clipped on: 11.10.2013 at 01:16 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2013 at 01:16 pm

RE: How to create flow with this color? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mlweaving_Marji on 09.23.2013 at 11:24 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I'm not sure about flow, but I have been practicing Annie's design seed method over the last couple of weeks.
Since these are color schemes I'm considering, I've got a wealth of fabric and photos posted on my Pinterest. Just last night I posted Jonathan Adler's needlepoint pillows in this color scheme.



Last week I used Chip-it to pull the colors out of a
Jonathan Adler fabric.

And this is a design seed palette that Annie did awhile ago that may pick up on your colors.

Don't know if htat will help, but maybe some you can pull out to start working with.

edited to try to get photos posted

This post was edited by mlweaving_Marji on Mon, Sep 23, 13 at 23:42

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colors
clipped on: 10.29.2013 at 10:38 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2013 at 10:38 pm

RE: Help Me Those A Lampshade (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: arapaho on 10.29.2013 at 05:50 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I've referred to this before....

Here is a link that might be useful: Ballard Designs - how to pick a lampshade

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clipped on: 10.29.2013 at 10:02 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2013 at 10:03 pm

RE: Marble stained! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: srosen on 10.27.2013 at 05:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Don't replace the marble.
The stain can be corrected. There are several ways to do this. Is the marble honed or polished -looks honed in the pic. Coffee can be acidic so make sure it isn't an etch mark as well.
Best thing to do is hire a stone refinisher and bill it back to the contractor. I don't see why you would want to do it.
Don't give yourself a heart attack over it either.
If you have to do it your self here are some methods.
Using hydrogen peroxide (not the one in your medicine chest that 3% volume)you will need 30-40% volume hydrogen peroxide. Mix using flour, diatomaceous earth or baby powder unscented into a paste and place over the stains. Cover with plastic and let sit for six hours or so.
remove the plastic and don't touch until dry. Then remove it all and see what you get.
Another way is using a store bought poultice and applying that. You can also put down some paper towels about eight to ten sheets pad and place some bleach on top of it.
Let it sit on the stain for about an hour and then lift up and rinse well. You can dilute the bleach if you like. It wont damage the stone either way.

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clipped on: 10.27.2013 at 07:05 pm    last updated on: 10.27.2013 at 07:05 pm

How big should an area rug be?

posted by: AnnieDeighnaugh on 10.26.2013 at 08:29 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I came across this in houzz.com and it does a great job of explaining the "rules" and when they should be broken. Lots of good visuals too.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sizing an area rug

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clipped on: 10.26.2013 at 10:49 am    last updated on: 10.26.2013 at 10:49 am

RE: Small things that get forgotten (Follow-Up #56)

posted by: Laura12 on 06.03.2012 at 01:19 pm in Building a Home Forum

All the suggestions posted on this thread have been so valuable, though I'm sure many of you (like myself) find your head spinning with all the ideas, so I just sat down and categorized them all!

Closet & Organization
- Plugs in several closets
- Make sure your closet has enough space for both double hung rods, and singles to accomadate long clothes
- Full size broom cupboard in pantry or laundry room to hide all the cleaning items away from sight.
- More closet/linen space than you think you'll need
- Cubbies in mudroom with an outlet in each one
- Motion sensor on pantry and closet lights

Bath
- Plug in master toilet closet for night light
- Outlets inside vanity cabinets (upper and lower) in bathroom for dryer etc.
- Heated towels racks
- Don't caulk the bottom of your toilet to the tile to hide potential leaks
- Make use of the pony wall in a bathroom by turning it into storage.
- Vac pans for hair
- Appliance garage on counter

Outdoor
- Run conduit under the driveway for future wiring or plumbing needs
- Prewire speakers both indoor and outdoor
- Ensure you have hose outlets and power on all 4 sides of your house, and on top of any raised areas
- Hot/cold outdoor water is good for washing pets
- Motion sensor pre-wire for selected exterior lights
- Keypad entry on garage door (Keypad entry on front door is great as well)
- Gas line to grill

Kitchen
- Plugs in kitchen pantry for charging, or for items that may end up living there
- Recess the fridge
- With wide islands put cabinets on the both sides. While they are not easy to get to, they are good for storing seldomly used items.
- Built in paper towel holder
- Custom storage organization in kitchen drawers
- Warming drawer in dining room
- Pantry entrance near both kitchen and garage
- Custom shelves and a place to plug in appliances in pantry
- Plugs above cabinets for Christmas lighting
- Set up for both gas and electric appliances
- Pantry door on swivel
- Pantry light on motion sensor
- Copper tubing for your ice maker from the freezer and until it's out of the kitchen wall
- Drawer microwave
- Knife drawer
- Pull-out garbage/recycling/laundry (for dirty dish towels/napkins/bibs!)
- Paper towel holder in drawer slot
- Drawers for all lower cabinets (more efficient use of space)
- Two soap pumps at sink (one for handsoap, one for dish soap)
- Easy-access place to store frequently used appliances
- place to hang hand towels & aprons

Electrical & Plumbing
- Prewire security system & cameras
- Run wire and prepare roof for future solar
- Run a 2" PVC pipe up from the basement to the attic for future wiring needs, some suggested double conduits.
- Seperate 20z circut with outlets at waist height in garage to plug in tools
- Seperate 20z ciructe for TV and a/v equipment
- Identify areas for low voltage can/rack
- Pre-wring for music and speakers, inside and outside
- iPad controllers in the walls to control whole house music systems
- Pre-wire for generator to essential areas
- Carbon monozide unit on the wall upstairs
- Make sure plumbing in bathrooms are done correctly. One commenter's toilet was placed too close to the tub pipes so I couldn't get the deeper tub because they didn't allow room.
- Cast iron pipes for the plumbing drops from the second floor cuts down on noise
- Take pictures of all the walls before Sheetrock went up so you knew where all the wiring was in case you needed to add or change anything.
- Include a 220V to garage (tools, future electric car etc)
- Measure the location of anything under the slab, and various utilities out in the yard.
- Run an electrical line with a few floor outlets, especially since we have very open floor plan and couch sets are not against a wall
- Plumbed for a built-in drinking fountain,

Lighting
- Light switch to the attic in the hallway (and remember lights in attic in general)
- Solar tubes in areas that don�t get natural sunlight
- In cabinet lights and outside lights on timers
- Make sure you check the cost ratings of ceiling fans
- Check all remotes for ceiling fans prior to construction completion
- 3 way switches where helpful
- Master switch from master that controls all exterior lights
- A master switch at each exit (Front, back or garage), that turns off all of the power to the switches/lights in the house, so that you can turn off all lights without going to each room and/or light switch.

Master
- 4 plug outlets near the bed in the master
- A light switch at the head of your bed so you can turn out the light once you are in bed.

Holiday
- Plugs under eaves for holiday lights, with a switch inside to turn on and off.
- Enough storage for Christmas decorations
- Seasonal closet with hangers for wreaths, and space for rubbermaid storage boxes.
- Plugs for Christmas lights: over cabinets, in stairway, in porch ceiling, under eaves

Heating, Cooling, and Vacuums
- Central Vac with vac pans, if you have hardwood floors - get a Hideahose
- Plan where furnace vents will go instead of letting the builder decide
- Hepa filtration for allegergy sufferers
- WarmFloors heating

Overall
- Read Myron Ferguson has a book out, "Better Houses, Better Living"
- Receptacles for fire extinguishers. Maybe plan some cutouts so they are flush to the wall.
- Where possible pocket doors
- Secondary dryer lint trap http://www.reversomatic.com/category/Accessories-Catalogue/Lint-Traps.html
- Soundproofing where needed
- Stairs from garage to basement
- A phone by the door leading into the garage for those pesky calls when you are getting in or out of the car
- An inside button to open and close your garage door for when guests arrive and its raining.
- Additional support during framing on the top side of windows for curtains
- Power outage flashlights and keep in outlets around around house. Recess these into the space with each fire extinguisher.
- Mailbox sensor to alert you whenever your mailbox is opened so that you're not running out of the house checking for mail when it's not there.
- Ensure builders don't "box" off spaces, where storage or shelving could go
- Make copies of manuals prior to installation and give the builder the copies so you can keep the originals.
- Minimal walls, and lots of windows.
- A laundry room. Not just a hall, or closet, a room.
- Spindles and hand rail made that can be removed for moving furniture
- Handicapped accessible.
- Plan an elevator shaft in case you want to install one later, in the meantime it will serve as storage closets.

Pets
- Plan a specific place for your dog food,
- Place for the kitty box,
- Place for dogs to be bathed
- place for dog crates
- Exhaust fan in laundry room for litterbox

Regional considerations:
- an ante-room, with coatracks and shoe storage, and a way to keep the heat in.
- An entrance to the basement from outside for salt delivery, repair men etc so they don't track thru your house.
- storm shelter to weather the threats your area faces.
- a mosquito system http://www.mistaway.com/watch-the-mistaway-video.html and http://www.mosquitonix.com/mosquitonix
- little covered niche for bear spray at/near each entry.
- Drain in the garage to get rid of the excess water quicker from vehicles after it snows
- Pest line (brand name Taexx) a small tube is run around the perimeter of the home through the framing, and then pest control can spray within it.

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clipped on: 10.24.2013 at 06:40 am    last updated on: 10.24.2013 at 06:41 am

Linelle, can you say "crackle?"

posted by: romy718 on 10.21.2013 at 11:47 am in Kitchens Forum

Marthastoo posted these pictures of sample boards of Encore "crackle" tiles. I'm reposting for those looking for backsplash options. Her pictures are better than the Encore website pictures. There are 14 colors on each board, two tiles for each color. The two boards represent 28 of their 54 color options for crackle tile. Beautiful handglazed tile with subtle color variation.

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clipped on: 10.22.2013 at 10:44 am    last updated on: 10.22.2013 at 10:44 am

RE: Design Around This; Goth Beachhouse (Follow-Up #37)

posted by: caminnc on 10.16.2013 at 06:19 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Another

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Entire blue wall
clipped on: 10.17.2013 at 06:50 am    last updated on: 10.17.2013 at 06:51 am

RE: Middle to high-end upholstery (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: John_WC on 04.23.2005 at 01:18 pm in Furniture Forum

Let's start with the basics. A well constructed sofa consists of the following details: 5/4 kiln dried hardwood (like oak), legs that are part of the frame, suspended coil springs that are 8 way (or greater) tied, corner blocks, double dowel, glued and screwed corners and joints, minimum of high density cushions with upgrades available, fabric matched and high quality fabrics available. Avoid sofas that use bands or straps or serpentine for support as compared to suspended coil springs.

What separates high end and middle quality? Materials, craftmanship, quality and scale. If you want to see the best made sofa brand on the market, look at E J Victor. Incredible stuff. Of course, a price tag to match. But you will see the pinnacle of the upholstery market.

You asked for a list of middle and high end upholstery.

Middle: Clayton Marcus, Temple, Jetton, Massoud, Key City, Thomasville, Highland House, Century, Drexel, C R Laine, Michael Thomas, Harden, Ethan Allen, Pa House, Sam Moore, Fairfield, Woodmark, Lexington and Broyhill. And there are many more.

High end: E J Victor, Henredon, Heritage, Southwood, Taylor King, Bradington Young, Hancock & Moore, Hickory White, Hickory Chair and Baker.

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clipped on: 10.05.2013 at 05:58 pm    last updated on: 10.05.2013 at 05:58 pm

RE: List of top quality Americna furniture manufacturers? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: bobsmyuncle on 09.05.2013 at 07:45 pm in Furniture Forum

I buy replacements from Leggett & Platt for repairs.

Every once in a while, my sales rep says something like, "That mechanism is made by us, but it's made in China for Chinese assemblies. We can't even get it here." The ones I get are made in USA as far as I can tell.

There used to be a guy here who runs a furniture store in DC Metro area. He sang highest praises for Hancock and Moore leather recliners.

Bradington Young is also highly respected. I replaced a mech in one a couple of years ago. Even though it was about 25 years old, the mech was still available from L&P. The owner was so glad to get his chair working again, I thought he was going to kiss me.

Like I said above, Furniture Brands is teetering on insolvency. It's brand names include Henredon, Maitland-Smith, Broyhill, Hickory, LaBarge, Thomasville, Lane, Lane Venture, Drexel Heritage, and Pearson. While it would be nice to help them out, I think it's risky to buy from a failing company as a warranty is only as good as the company behind it.

Barcalounger and Berkline have also gone under in the last couple of years. IIRC, Ashley has bought Berk's intellectual property and sent the manufacture off to their Asian plants.

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clipped on: 10.04.2013 at 11:31 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2013 at 11:32 pm

RE: List of top quality Americna furniture manufacturers? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: rmanbike on 09.04.2013 at 08:52 pm in Furniture Forum

I suggest searching this forum for motion furniture or reclining furniture quality.
Top grain leather is usually considered a investment in stationary furniture. Motion furniture which includes recliners is never really considered an investment, as they have limited life as usable furniture.

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clipped on: 10.04.2013 at 11:30 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2013 at 11:30 pm

Finito! one more white/marble/soapstone kitchen

posted by: segbrown on 12.06.2009 at 01:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've posted in dribs and drabs, so this isn't exactly an unveiling, but we are 99% done. Thanks to everyone; I've been reading this forum for years, even in the "pre-model" we did a few years back (minor update). I am also greatly indebted to my wonderful designer and contractor; I lucked out there.

Before pics: we moved the kitchen into the family room, the dining room into the kitchen, and the breakfast area into the dining room. (The living room turned into the family room, and the office will soon turn into the living room ... more to do around here.)So these photos are not exactly classic before/afters. (And it's a snowy day, so bright outside, not the best for pics. Oh well.)

Old kitchen
Photobucket

Corresponding view
Photobucket

Old family room:
Photobucket

Corresponding view
Photobucket

Old dining room (both visible walls are now gone)
Photobucket

Corresponding view
Photobucket

I was previously opposed to knocking out both walls, but I am glad we did. For the way we live, it works much better. Entertaining is a cinch now. Because the kitchen is vaulted but the other ceilings are low, it doesn't feel like a huge empty space (that's what I was worried about). And I liked my "other" house, just not the kitchen. It was awful.

I'll post details here, and more specific photos in a subsequent post.

-Cabinets-
Aspen Leaf Kitchens in Denver/Berthoud, CO; proprietary Primer White, BM Taos Taupe on island and butler's pantry, and custom-stained antique pine on breakfast hutch

-Appliances-
SubZero BI-36U fridge, pro handle
Wolf 48 DF range with 4 burners and double griddle
Viking 54 in. hood liner with heat lamps
Thermador DWHD64EP dishwashers
KitchenAid KBCO24RSBX three-zone beverage center
SubZero 700BCI refrigerator/freezer drawers
Sharp 0.8 cu ft microwave

-Counters-
Minas soapstone on perimeter cabinets and hutch
Calacatta gold marble on island and butler's pantry

-Hardware-
Restoration Hardware Gilmore cup pulls, Aubrey knobs and handle pulls, Clear Glass knobs in antique brass, and Season knobs and Hanson pulls in ORB

-Sinks-
Main: soapstone farm sink crafted by Terra Bella/Denver CO
Prep: Ticor S3650

-Faucets-
Main sink: Kohler HiRise bridge with sidespray
Prep sink: Kohler HiRise bar faucet

-Lighting-
Wilmette Clark pendants in ORB (breakfast nook)
Wilmette LaSalle wall sconces in antique brass (later photos)
Visual Comfort Classic Ring chandelier in AB (dining room)
Visual Comfort Four-Light Siena pendant in AB (butler's)

-Island stools-
Ballard Designs Dorchester counter stools in rubbed black (all other furniture and rugs previously owned)

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.29.2013 at 01:38 pm    last updated on: 09.29.2013 at 01:39 pm

RE: Coffee table distance from sofa? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: les917 on 01.14.2008 at 01:27 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

This might help:

Measuring Space - How Much Room Do You Really Need?

by Pamela Cole Harris

When planning your home d�cor, it is vitally important to understand your space needs. Do you have enough room to open any doors? Can you walk from one side of the room to the other without climbing over the furniture? Here are some rules to keep in mind when you plan your room update:

1. Living Room - Keep in mind that for good conversational and traffic flow, keep at least 4-10 feet between sofa and chairs. Place your coffee table between 14-18 inches from the sofa (although I would only use 18 inches if you have lonnnnng arms!).

2. Family Room - To the above rules about sofa and chair placement, add the viewing area needed for a television. To view a 30 inch TV screen, the sofa or chair should be at least 90 inches away (but not so far that you have to change your glasses prescription to view!). To create an easy flow in any room, there should be traffic lanes which are at least three feet wide.

3. Dining Room - A seated adult at a round or square table usually occupies a depth of about 20 inches with at least 12-16 inches more to pull back a chair. Rectangular tables need at least 24 inches per person and about 32-36 inches clearance between table and walls. On the serving side, the table to wall distance should be at least 44 inches.

4. Bedroom - For maximum comfort, the distance from the bed to the wall should be at least 24 inches. To allow any door to open easily, there should be 36 inches between the bed and the door.

Knowing how much space you really need in a room can make planning your space much easier. Be sure to measure your room height and length, the size of windows and check to see of your room is "true" or square before you place your furniture. Doing so will help avert a potential disaster like buying a king-size bed for a queen-size room!

This content provided by Home and Garden Makeover

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.28.2013 at 08:40 am    last updated on: 09.28.2013 at 08:40 am

RE: my lr vision gone with one fell swoop (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: AnnieDeighnaugh on 09.25.2013 at 05:27 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Maybe this will help...

Here is a link that might be useful: decorating with leather

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.26.2013 at 10:27 am    last updated on: 09.26.2013 at 10:27 am