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Custom cabinet space for excalibur dehydrator

posted by: daviderin7 on 04.07.2014 at 01:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

Has anyone done this? We recently removed our dishwasher, and would like to use the space in other ways. Amongst other things, we'd like to add a custom space for our Excalibur food dehydrator, which is currently used on the countertop and takes up a huge amount of space.

I browsed the internets, and found zero examples of this having been done! I figure my two main concerns are proper ventilation, and access to the top panel.

Has anyone done this, or seen this?

Thanks!

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clipped on: 07.27.2014 at 07:27 pm    last updated on: 07.27.2014 at 07:27 pm

Help! Ugly plywood cabinets!

posted by: Swiss_Chard_Fanatic on 03.17.2014 at 02:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

What would you do with these? I hate the ugly dark color. But notice that they have heavy wood grains and knots that cannot be covered up by paint? What to do here?

More pics below.

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clipped on: 03.22.2014 at 09:08 pm    last updated on: 03.22.2014 at 09:08 pm

Did you purchase aftermarket cabinet accessories/parts?

posted by: front on 03.14.2014 at 10:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

I haven't even looked into pricing for drawer inserts or pull handles from Schuler. I did find some pulls that I like for around $6 each. I'm going to take the advice I was given and take an inventory of my kitchen. I would like to put in knife inserts, silverware inserts, and possibly plate dividers. Did you purchase your cutlery dividers, pulls, etc. from the manufacturer? If not, where did you purchase them? How was the fit?

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clipped on: 03.15.2014 at 10:44 pm    last updated on: 03.15.2014 at 10:44 pm

RE: kitchen countertop, marble or quartzite, first world problems (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: finestra on 09.19.2012 at 09:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

I love that slab and would grab it in a second - faster than a second if it is quartzite.

I have marble (montclair danby) and had "Granite Shield" sealant put on it. It was sprayed on and did not change the texture of the stone. It is supposed to be a lifetime sealant. Today I canned 24 jars of tomatoes. My friend helped me and she was slopping cooked tomatoes all over the place. Not one stain and very little if any etching (the Danby seems a little harder than the european marbles).

My only problem with the marble is around the sink. You have to be careful not to bang heavy pots into it or it will ding. I never had this problem with my AB granite. And Quartzite is supposed to be hard like granite. If you go with a marble which is softer, I would suggest a farmhouse style sink.

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clipped on: 01.23.2014 at 09:53 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2014 at 09:53 pm

Undercounter LED tape lights

posted by: Laura12 on 06.18.2013 at 06:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm curious what brand of LED undercounter tape lights you used, and what the cost was.

Even better - did you buy it online and can you point me in the right direction?

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clipped on: 01.10.2014 at 07:19 pm    last updated on: 01.10.2014 at 07:19 pm

My UCL install

posted by: gpraceman on 06.21.2013 at 08:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

There is a little bit of a lul in our kitchen install due to a granite snafu, so I thought that I would get the UCL installed. I think that it turned out pretty well and they seem plenty bright to me. Total cost was $161 using Armacost brand LED strips from Home Depot.

 photo DSC03906_zpsde8c9875.jpg

 photo DSC03913_zps0619fea3.jpg

Needed parts were:

+ 30W power supply (Home Depot)
+ 12ft LED tape (Home Depot)
+ Snap connectors for the LED tape (Home Depot)
+ 18 gauge CL2 rated speaker wire (Monoprice)
+ Wire connectors (Home Depot)
+ Terminal strip and jumpers (Radio Shack)
+ 3/4" wide aluminum flat bars (Home Depot)

I could have done without the aluminum bars, but it made mounting easier. The 12ft of LEDs was perfect for our needs, as I had just a little left over. If we wanted to, we could have added a dimmer between the power supply and the LED strips, but we like our lights bright and likely would never dim them.

Here's basically, how I installed them:

1) Cut the LED tape so there is a maximum number of LED's to fit under the cabinet, but leaving a bit of space for snap connectors on the ends.
2) Cut the aluminum bar a bit shorter than the LED strip, so the snap connectors can fit over the tape ends.
3) Peel off the LED tape backing and press onto the bar.
4) Attach pieces of heavy duty double sided tape to the back of the bar. For the longer runs, I used 3 pieces of double sided tape and just two for the shorter runs.
5) Using a 3/4" wide wood strip as a spacer, adhere the bar under the cabinet.
6) Attach the snap on connector to the end of the tape.
7) Use mini self adhesive wire clips to tidy up the wires.

The spacer makes placement easier and puts the LED's about 1-1/4" from the front edge of the cabinet frame. That distance works out well, as there is no shadow of the front edge being cast onto the counter. To make sure that polarity of the strips would not be an issue, all strips where mounted so the writing on the strips were all in the same orientation with respect to the front edge of the cabinet.

Before the cabinets went in, I installed an outlet above one cabinet, controlled by a switch. It is hidden by the crown molding. Plugged into that is the 30W power supply. The output side is connected to a terminal strip which allows connection of the two LED runs. Speaker wire runs behind the wall and to the bottom of the upper cabinets flanking our window.

 photo DSC03903_zpseec1a759.jpg

The two upper cabinets flanking the window were notched around the speaker wires. That is the only modification of the cabinets that was required in this whole install. Bullet connectors attach the speaker wire to the first LED strip in the run.

 photo DSC03910_zpsf4cfff7b.jpg

Snap connectors for the LED tape daisy chain the strips together. Once the light rail is installed, any wire hanging down a bit will be hidden.

 photo DSC03911_zps51ff5185.jpg

Though, after bending over backwards to mount these strips, I may need to get DW to give me a good back massage.

This post was edited by gpraceman on Fri, Jun 21, 13 at 20:55

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clipped on: 06.21.2013 at 10:12 pm    last updated on: 01.10.2014 at 07:18 pm

Height between pantry shelves?

posted by: alice462 on 01.16.2009 at 05:26 am in Kitchens Forum

What is your favorite height between shelves in your pantry?

I came home yesterday and my carpenter had built shelves in my new, small pantry. He only spaced the tallest 12" apart -- I could not stand a cereal box upright on this and know that they need to be re-worked and would greatly appreciate any feedback.

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clipped on: 01.10.2014 at 07:04 pm    last updated on: 01.10.2014 at 07:04 pm

vintage green paint color

posted by: CRM123 on 01.11.2012 at 02:36 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Does anyone have an opinion on a paint color that would be similar to the vintage green that was used in the 30s and 40s, inside cabinets, on enamelware, etc? I keep trying to match this color and never seem to be satisfied with what comes out. I am thinking there must be a paint chip that would be similar! Thanks.

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clipped on: 01.07.2014 at 08:29 pm    last updated on: 01.07.2014 at 08:29 pm

Zone, Heat and Sun challenged

posted by: SouthCountryGuy on 07.08.2013 at 08:56 pm in Azalea & Rhododendron Forum

Hi all, first time posting to this forum and looking for a little advice. I am looking for a shrub to anchor a bed along my house and have a few challenges.

1) we often get -35C (-31F) for a week or so a year and our summers are usually around 30C (86F) from late May through September. Frost safe (June - end August)
2) it gets sun at 8:30 then shade from the house creeps across the bed (8' wide) and it is totally in shade by 2pm
3) Need a tall variety it will be 'behind' some astilbe and I prefer to not have white
4) Soil is alkaline but I can amend if needed

I have been researching and searching this forum and have a list in order of what I think will work the best.

1) PJM Elite
2) PJM Victor or Regal
3) Nova Zembla
4) Manitou (although probably not tall enough)

Any further suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Lance

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clipped on: 12.30.2013 at 08:51 pm    last updated on: 12.30.2013 at 08:52 pm

Let's make a list of soapstone suppliers

posted by: nomorebluekitchen on 10.02.2008 at 02:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Trying to find a source for soapstone has been a common theme on the board since I joined. I know I really struggled to find options.

I thought maybe we could start a list of the different companies who supply soapstone as a resource for new members of the board.

In addition to local granite houses (none of which had a good supply) I worked with M. Tex, Teresina, and Dorado.

Anyone else want to chime in?

Anita

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clipped on: 11.22.2013 at 08:02 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2013 at 08:02 pm

RE: What kind of paint should I use to paint oak kitchen cabinets (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bbstx on 11.01.2013 at 06:45 am in Kitchens Forum

I painted my oak bathroom vanity black. I found the same hinges at Home Depot in black and changed out all of the hinges. I took my doors off and painted them while they were laying flat. Take your time. Let each coat dry thoroughly. Pay attention to wiping drips off the edges of the backside.

I am reposting below exactly the steps I followed.

There was a person who used to post on the kitchen forum quite frequently. She had re-done several houses. She advocated painting cabinets as follows (I've cut and pasted her advice from several different threads):

I only use high quality nylon (Purdy) brushes. I prefer them for wood finishes. They cost more but they last forever!

This is exactly what I use:

Sherwin Williams PrepRite ProBlock Interior Exterior Seals and Bonds, Latex primer (be sure you get exactly that one...it says BONDS on the label). It's made to cover shiny surfaces and bond tightly, and I've used it in several kitchens, and on all of my interior woodwork and it does BOND!! No sanding, just wipe down your cabinets with either a TSP and water mixture or a little vinager and water to get rid of grease.

This stuff is wonderful. I've converted many naysayers to the primer because you really don't have to sand or use a deglosser, and even if they're thermafoil...it will BOND and you'll have a finish you can then paint on. :O) It's so much easier. I just love it (I just picked up another couple of gallons last night). And the finish will be tough as nails by the way. I personally also like to use a high quality sherwin williams paint.

I use one coat primer and let it dry a day at least, then two coats (one day between at least) of paint with a good Purdy brush (which is important). With just one coat the grain still effects the paint, but with the two on top of the primer you get that nice smooth look :)

I'm a paint freak, so forgive me for saying this if you know. Don't use rollers for wood. I like a 1 1/2 inch and a 2 1/2 or 3" brush at the most. The smaller works well on the small areas so you don't drip or oversmear the sides of the project.

I have painted several cabinets using the SW primer without any other prep work, except making sure the cabinets were relatively clean. So far they have held up fine.

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clipped on: 11.04.2013 at 09:05 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2013 at 09:06 pm

RE: Granite, Marble, or Quartzite?? Which is it?? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: momqs on 03.13.2011 at 07:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have quartzite - it's called White Pearl or White Princess.

Firsthouse_mp has it honed and I have it polished. It looks a like like marble, but is hard and doesn't etch or stain (with sealer). (It was labeled granite at the yard we found it at).

sochi has a quartzite called Luna di Luca. Same properties. Also looks like marble - but different than the White Pearl.

My finished kitchen

firsthouse's finished kitchen

sochi's finished kitchen

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clipped on: 10.21.2013 at 08:39 pm    last updated on: 10.21.2013 at 08:39 pm

Pros, please share illustrated lessons?

posted by: kksmama on 09.19.2013 at 01:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are so fortunate to have pros on this board who share solutions and ideas. To ask for more from them is forward - but I'll do it, anyway.

Could those of you with expertise please share? I have heard and can now repeat "match the style/period of your home" but I don't really know what that means. Can you share pictures that would educate us? Maybe of a backsplash fighting with a counter, or any misuse of materials/color/scale. We all want to see and copy great design, but perhaps would learn as much or more from an explanation of bad design. Tell us what NOT to do, please?

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clipped on: 09.20.2013 at 08:50 pm    last updated on: 09.20.2013 at 08:51 pm

Remembering funny threads

posted by: debrak2008 on 09.12.2013 at 08:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

Over the years there have been many threads that made me laugh out loud. While the issue may or may not have been serious you couldn't help but laugh. Why? because they hit home. Made us laugh at ourselves and did a little reality check.

Anyone want to find their favorites and link them here? Tell us why it was your favorite.

I will link the one that included laxsupermoms secret weapon during the remodel. S E X
My fav because you can get so wrapped up in your house that you forget about your relationship. When you are both more relaxed decisions are much easier.

What is your favorite?

Here is a link that might be useful: secret weapon

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clipped on: 09.13.2013 at 07:13 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2013 at 07:13 pm

Large modernaire hood - barrel or concave shape?

posted by: lalitha on 02.13.2012 at 05:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

I would love to see some of your modernaire hoods - PS 11(concave shape) and PS 26 (barrel shape). Wonder of wonders, getting a modernaire custom hood seems to be in the same ballpark as just getting a liner insert and having a framer or the cabinet guy build something. DH and I decided to make compromises in other places to fit this in our budget. We have a larginsh space for the hood between the cabinets on either side of the cooking zone. It is a galley kitchen and I am trying to figure out what will look nicer. Painted is around 1000 dollars cheaper than stainless. Here are the specs os my space.

Space between cabinets - 57.5 inches
Upper cabinet depth - 15 inches
Soapstone counter depth for cooktops - 30 inches
The aisle space in galley - 5 feet
The ceiling is a tad lower than 8 feet

My ceiling is aged medium tone wood planks. I have a window with a view to the backyard across from the cooktop and large 4X4 feet skylight well above me when I am standing in front of the cooktop.

I like the barrel shaped PS 26 look in painted red with polished stainless bands but DH feels that it would look too huge in our kitchen. He prefers the concave look of PS 11.

Would wide red barrel hood be too big for the kitchen? The sales guy suggested 27" or even 30" depth for the hood as my counters are deeper. Will this look too deep?
Would stainless look better.. similar to histokitch's fabulous kitchen?

We will have painted cabinets. I am thinking a pale green/ yellow uppers with a shade or two darker green base cabinets. The light in the kitchen is pretty filtered and as it is east and south facing, the light quality changes quite a bit.

Lalitha

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clipped on: 09.07.2013 at 02:06 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2013 at 02:06 pm

Deeper pantry cabinet next to standard depth lowers?

posted by: rmiriam on 09.05.2013 at 08:46 am in Kitchens Forum

My layout has the sink, dishwasher, pantry cabinet and refrigerator in a row (and in that order). I had planned to make the pantry cabinet a few inches deeper to hide the entire side of the fridge, but now am concerned that it will look funny having a deeper cabinet next to the standard depth DW. I would prefer not to pull the DW and sink out from the wall, as every inch counts. Does anyone have a setup like this, or thoughts on whether it might look odd?

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clipped on: 09.05.2013 at 11:02 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2013 at 11:02 pm

Inside finish of cabinets?

posted by: susied3 on 08.22.2013 at 03:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've been noticing differences in the insides of cabinets from pictures posted here and it lends me to a question.

Some of you seem to have natural looking insides, some painted or stained. We ordered our cabinets unfinished and I am painting them myself.
Those of you who have natural looking insides, can you tell me, have they been finished with a sealer or varnish or are they raw wood?
My existing cabinets are painted white inside and out, but even with protective liners they have scuff marks and even some paint scraping.
I'm thinking about leaving the inside natural but not sure about leaving it raw.

Can you tell me about your insides?
Thanks!

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clipped on: 08.23.2013 at 10:59 pm    last updated on: 08.23.2013 at 10:59 pm

Custom Drawer Inserts

posted by: meyersdvm on 06.05.2013 at 12:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

I learned about Wood Hollow's custom drawer inserts from this forum. I ordered from their eBay site last Wednesday and my drawer inserts arrived very well packaged yesterday.

I love that they match my wood drawer interiors and leave no wasted space. They are well made and very reasonably priced at $35 each for cutlery and utensil inserts and $25 for a fluted spice insert. My spice drawer is in a bank of base cabs that are only 18 inches in depth, so standard inserts would not have worked.

Spice drawer
Utensil drawer
Cutlery drawer

Here is a link that might be useful: Cutlery Insert

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clipped on: 06.05.2013 at 07:42 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2013 at 09:33 pm

dimmable led uc light questions

posted by: andreak100 on 08.10.2013 at 09:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm still struggling with what to do about UC lighting...it's been one of the portions that I've looked at a bit, got confused and frustrated (I just can't seem to wrap my head around it) and left it to deal with at another time. Well, "another time" is really going to need to be soon...so, I've got to figure it out. I've been reading all of David Tay's helpful info in the Lighting Forum and it's helped a bit.

One thing that I seem to be reading a bit is that the dimming portion is so-so, at best. My plan is to use my UC lighting both as task lighting and ambient lighting...so, I need something rather bright that will dim down considerably.

For those of you who installed dimmable UC LED - what did you go with? How do you feel about the dimming qualities of those lights? If you had to do the lighting all over again, is there anything that you would change?

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clipped on: 08.10.2013 at 09:48 pm    last updated on: 08.10.2013 at 09:48 pm

RE: Bead Board confused here (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: grannabelle on 01.17.2008 at 09:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

we have a bead board ceiling in our kitchen - A CAUTION TO ALL: we bought the bead board (tongue and groove boards, not panels)at home depot - painter said prime + 3 coats of paint: did as he suggested and gc installed...looked great...for about a month and then the boards began separating and splitting - called home depot they said we should have sealed the wood first - no where on the package does it tell you this (and HD agreed) - now HD is dealing with the manufacturer and we are trying to get them to replace the entire ceiling (labor and materials - as the entire ceiling needs to be redone)SOOOOOO be careful with the bead board and research how to prepare it for installation (even if there is no indication on the packaging of any special directions).

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clipped on: 07.28.2013 at 09:05 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2013 at 09:05 pm

Please post pics of your organized cabinets and drawers

posted by: sanjuangirl on 07.19.2013 at 03:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are almost finished with our kitchen, just need to have the island slab installed (next week) and the new wood floors put in. Unfortunately we're doing this backwards and should have decided on wood first so the demo of our tile could have been done before our kitchen renovation; my DH only decided yesterday that we should add it to our budget.

I've decided to start putting some stuff back so we can begin cooking again. I really want to be organized this time around. It's not in my nature but I'm going to make every effort!

Some of the organizational skills here on GW scare me in their thoughtful thoroughness. I'm hoping some of it rubs off on me as I put all of my things back in place.

I would appreciate photos.

Thanks!

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clipped on: 07.22.2013 at 10:50 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2013 at 10:51 pm

Apron sink and drip ledge - Is it glued on?

posted by: lalitha on 03.08.2012 at 02:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

My cabinet guy has never heard of a drip ledge. Any advice on how it is fixed? Is it glued on? Is there a pic someone can share please?

I did get some useful input on how exactly it works.. The physics makes sense..

--------------------
From an older GW thread:

HOW A DRIP LEDGE or DRIP RAIL WORKS

Picture the drip rail as a piece of 1" or 1 1/2" solid stock with an ogee edge on the front. It projects about 1" from the face of the cabinet front, sandwiched between the cabinet and the sink (I don't imagine it goes all the way under the sink, but it appears that way.) HERE'S the IMPORTANT DETAIL: on the UNDERSIDE of the drip rail, there's a routered drip groove running the whole length of the drip rail, about 1/2 inch from the edge. This is the same detail that is used on the exterior window trim of old houses. On windows, the groove on the trim (which is located on the trim away from the house by about 3/4 of an inch or so) prevents rain water from running under the window sill and down the siding of the house. That's because the groove interrupts the flat plane of the bottom of the window trim, and water can't move upwards (no capillary action) to follow the groove and get to the siding. So similarly, in the drip rail for a sink, the water runs down the sink face, over the ogee edge of the drip rail and starts to run under the drip rail, until it hits the groove and can't go any further. The water then drips off the underside of the drip rail at the edge of the groove, effectively missing the cabinet front (it'll fall onto the floor tho) thus preserving the finish on the cabinet doors and cabinet face frame.

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clipped on: 06.22.2013 at 08:56 pm    last updated on: 06.22.2013 at 08:56 pm

Everything I Wanted to Know About Drawers...

posted by: aloha2009 on 02.02.2013 at 06:31 am in Kitchens Forum

I was hoping to make this thread not only informational for myself, but that other information regarding drawers could be collected together. This is all about function.

Obviously to maximize storage and ease of use, drawers are the way to go.

Some things that are not so obvious are about framed, frameless and inset cabinets.

Another is how do cabinet manufacturers differ (if any) on the available usage.

The usage of 3 drawer vs 4 drawer (or even 5 drawer) stacks.

Determining the width of cabinets for your kitchen.

If you have answers to any of these please proceed.

Framed, frameless and inset cabinets utilize differing INTERIOR usable measurements. Please specify the type of cabinets you have (framed, frameless or inset) your manufacturer (or custom), the size of the cabinet, and what the entire TOP drawer INTERIOR measurements are (width, length, height). I stated top drawer only for comparison purposes since only the height should change from drawer to drawer. Perhaps certain manufactures have better storage in their cabinet lines.

Why did you choose cabinets with 4 drawer (and 5 drawer) stack when you did? How many do you have? How did you deal with the "horizontal lines" differences between your 3 and 4 drawer stacks? Just one aesthetic question isn't too bad.

Though wider cabinets are highly prized here, why did you choose narrower cabinets, instead of the widest available that would fit in your kitchen?

If there is anything else, I haven't though of to ask to have this thread be as complete as possible regarding drawers, please feel to add.

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clipped on: 06.08.2013 at 10:38 pm    last updated on: 06.08.2013 at 10:39 pm

White Painted Shaker Cabinet Pricing Comparison

posted by: kompy on 05.11.2012 at 04:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

For my own personal use, I priced out a wall and base cabinet in a few of my cabinet lines to see where each line stood on price. These prices do not include any manufacturer promotions currently running. All include freight costs. I looked up...with a bit of difficulty, the prices of IKEA. I thought there would be more SKUs and doorstyles.

Shaker door style
Maple Wood
White Paint
Drawer guides: Whatever comes standard
No upgrades
W3630
B36
Note: All are full overlay...except with Shiloh you can choose from full overlay or inset. Both are the same price right now. Ikea, Debut, KraftMaid and Plain & Fancy, all have full extension, soft close drawers as a standard.

Cost to Homeowner:
$600 to $650 for Ikea Akurum (req. assembly-$55 per box?)
$657 Debut Cabinetry: Oxford
$669 Medallion: Silverline Lancaster
$888 Shiloh: Shaker Inset (reverse raised panel shaker)
$916 KraftMaid: Atwater
$963 KraftMaid: Huntington
$983 Medallion: Potter's Mill
$987 Showplace: Pendleton
$1494 Plain & Fancy: Vogue Beaded Inset

So for 24' Lin. Ft of cabinets, costs would be:
$5,352 Medallion Silverline Full Overlay
$7,104 Shiloh Inset
$11,952 P&F Inset

I realize, much of this could change from dealer to dealer and region to region. If you add another brand of cabinet, I can add it to the list. Also some brands are higher on the extras like accessories, moldings and custom modifications. For cost comps in your area and for your kitchen, you still must do the footwork. But maybe this will help somebody.

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clipped on: 05.21.2012 at 10:46 am    last updated on: 06.01.2013 at 11:04 pm

led ucl--what are you using?

posted by: buildinva on 05.08.2013 at 09:34 am in Kitchens Forum

I confess that I'm completely overwhelmed by the UCL options. I have done lots of searching and reading and still don't know what I should get. I want nice even light that is bright and on a dimmer. Low profile would be great.

What are you using & why? And where did you purchase?

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clipped on: 05.11.2013 at 08:26 am    last updated on: 05.11.2013 at 08:26 am

RE: Vent hood baffle or mesh? Which one is better? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: weissman on 05.06.2013 at 08:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

Baffles filters are better at capturing grease and much easier to clean - you can throw them in the DW. Go with baffles.

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clipped on: 05.06.2013 at 08:35 pm    last updated on: 05.06.2013 at 08:35 pm

What keeps soapstone darker longer. . .The answer! ! !

posted by: florida_joshua on 10.24.2007 at 04:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

So I did a little test to answer the question.

The products:

Clapham's Beeswax Salad Bowl Finish
Bee's Oil
Regular Mineral Oil
Mystery Oil

First a brief discription (my opinion)

Clapham's: It is a paste, inbetween a wax and a liquid. Goes on easy and feels amazing after you put it on. On the touch catagory it is the best of the bunch.

Bee's Oil: It is a wax. A little harder to get on but if you heat it up it would be easier. Has stay power. This is at the top when it comes to keeping the patina on the stone.

Regular Mineral Oil: Needs no discription. It's easy to apply. Would keep a bottle around for those lazy days. Feels oily compared to the wax or paste. That feel goes away quickly though (whithin a hour or two if you wipe it down with a rag).

Mystery Oil: It is a liquid similar to the mineral oil. Not so crazy about the warning lable. Feels a little bit more oily than the mineral oil at first. Seems to react similar to the mineral oil. In my opinion I would rather use the mineral oil just because of convienience considering the warning about it being combustable.

The proof:

This is unoiled stone.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

This is the stone just after application
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

This is a picture of the sheen each gives off
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

A day after the first oiling
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

I then oiled it twice more over the next 2 days and waited 4 days to see what we had. Here it is.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

The mystery oil evaporated the quickest, then the mineral oil, contiuing on to the clapham's, and finally the Bee's oil.

I could continue the process but I do believe that you will continue to see the same results. Over time I think you wouold spend less time applying with the wax products but I would keep the mineral oil around for quick touchups or lazy days.

This test also gives people a good idea of how soapstone will react when it is installed in their home. This process of oiling and or waxing lessens with time. Each variety of soapstone can react differently as well. This means some stone evaporates the oil or wax products off quicker and or slower. Some people leave it unoiled some oil it often. Some like it inbetween and only oil it sometimes. . . So it really is up to the owner to choose how the stone fits your lifestyle. I still have not figured out how describe to someone who does not know about soapstone in one or two paragraphs. I know it sounds cheesy but I feel it's an experience. If you don't touch it, feel it, live with it, you'll never really understand it.

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clipped on: 04.17.2013 at 10:50 pm    last updated on: 04.17.2013 at 10:50 pm

RE: Anyone Regret putting in LATCHES for hardware on cabinets?? (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: katieob on 02.28.2010 at 09:01 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi.

We put twist latches on uppers (rejuvenation), cup pulls on lower drawers (RH)and latches on sink cabinet & lazy susan (Clifside Brass). Very happy with looks & function.
<Photobucket

<Photobucket

HTH
Katie

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clipped on: 04.13.2013 at 10:06 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2013 at 10:06 pm

RE: Anyone Regret putting in LATCHES for hardware on cabinets?? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: donka on 01.07.2010 at 02:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

Yup, they're black. I got these at rejuvenation on the advice of others here who said their latches are much smoother to operate than the RH ones. They seem totally fine to me and much smoother to operate than the original antique latches I have in my house, but no surprise there :)

Rejuvenation has two sizes...mine are the small ones.

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clipped on: 04.13.2013 at 10:00 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2013 at 10:00 pm

Anyone tired of their white subway tile backsplash yet?

posted by: ginad on 07.27.2010 at 11:55 am in Kitchens Forum

Just wondering? I see a lot of white cabinets with white subways on this site (but I have never seen one in person.) I think the look is fresh and clean, but also a little, dare I say, "boring." I like the look very much myself. I also see it a lot on the food network cooking shows (Ina, Giada, Sandra Lee.) I am stressing about chosing just the right tile/color/finish white subway. I am a little afraid I may tire of it because it is so plain. So, I am taking a straw poll of all white subway tile folks. How do you feel about them now that the kitchen is completed. Any photos would be great, especially would like to know if you did anything special above the stove area for some added interest. Thanks!
Gina

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clipped on: 03.31.2013 at 07:21 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2013 at 08:10 pm

ucl led & plug mold- peke and others

posted by: a2gemini on 03.05.2013 at 11:39 am in Kitchens Forum

Peke asked about the UCL and plug mold

The lights are GMLighting Larc3 LED dimmable -so yes they are hard wired. We needed to use a transformer for the lights. The lights are white but dim nicely and are 3000K
Initially, we had them flush against the trim - but we had shadows and Sparky moved them back about an inch so the lights are centered 1.5 inches from the trim

 photo IMG_7012.jpg

 photo IMG_7009.jpg

The plug mold came from Sparky aka electrician. They are standard GFCI strips and GC built a 45+/- strip to mount them.
I think you can see the a bit of the 45 degree angle strip if you look closely.
Sparky also used "conduit" to hide the wires as well.
I didn't like the industrial look of the angle plug mold that I saw. My only regret - I left a couple plugs in the backsplash.
Note the trim hides the lights completely (except for one bridge due to a cold air return in the wall - but only kids or shorter peeps will notice it)
 photo IMG_7258-1.jpg

For the lighting in the glass cabinet - we used Kimberly triple bright LED tape light with a dimmer. It was supposed to be single bright but it was backordered, so they gave us the triple bright at the same price.
 photo IMG_0007_2.jpg

The last of our LED lights are in the sunroom - we used Kimberly triple bright tape lights in this area also.

For the rest of the kitchen, we used 5 inch cans with Cooper LED kits and Lutron dimmers. The incandescent lighting is by Hubbardton Forge
 photo IMG_7252.jpg

 photo IMG_7131.jpg

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clipped on: 03.21.2013 at 03:53 pm    last updated on: 03.21.2013 at 03:53 pm

Wisdom of getting a wooden kitchen table

posted by: justmakeit on 03.17.2013 at 03:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

When DH and I got married, back in the mesozoic era, we got a gray formica kitchen table which proved to be indestructible. In the new kitchen, I made an executive decision to get a *new* table. I've found a nice modern table that I like, with a large number of top materials to choose from: glass, MDF, granite, marble and varieties of wood.

Since there's already a lot of stone in the kitchen, and cork on the floor, and white cabinets, I thought it might be nice to warm things up with a wood top, possibly a "reclaimed chestnut" that has a slightly distressed farmhouse vibe.

Here's the problem (I know, longest backstory ever): DH is anxious about a) how to disinfect the table and b) how to keep the wood looking good. With the old formica, he used to spray it with 409 and then rinse it with water. He's way more germ-phobic than I am, plus he's a celiac, so always on the lookout for cross-contamination, or crumbs his gluten-eating wife may have dropped inadvertently.

I'm pretty sure 409 on wood is a bad plan. How do you take care of your wood table in the kitchen? Am I going to have to get an MDF table to put DH at ease?

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clipped on: 03.21.2013 at 02:46 pm    last updated on: 03.21.2013 at 02:47 pm

Need photos of hoods for vintage stove

posted by: jeanneart93003 on 03.09.2012 at 02:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Greetings--

Looking for photos of range hoods with Vintage stoves. I am remodeling a kitchen with a reconditioned O'Keefe & Merritt stove. I like to mix up styles and was thinking of using a modern stainless and glass Euro-style hood. Of course the hoods are very rpciey...so am just exploring options and would love to see what you have done....

The stove will look much like the one pictured here in yellow http://www.antiqueappliancecompany.com/OKeefeMerrittModel535YellowPorcelain1954.html

Kind of hood I was thinking of..http://zephyronline.com/products/essentials_europa/milano-g_wall

Thanks

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clipped on: 03.03.2013 at 03:23 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2013 at 03:23 pm

Please show me the inside of your flatware drawer

posted by: mjocean on 02.20.2013 at 12:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi,

We're getting measured for our cabinets soon and I would love to see photos of the inside of your flatware drawers.

Thanks,
MJ

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clipped on: 02.20.2013 at 07:35 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2013 at 07:35 pm

Beveled Subway Tile recs

posted by: hobokenkitchen on 02.18.2013 at 08:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are looking for a beveled subway tile which looks expensive but isn't!! Lol.

Any recommendations?

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clipped on: 02.19.2013 at 10:26 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2013 at 10:26 pm

RE: If you chose a color for your painted cabinets (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: grlwprls on 02.09.2013 at 03:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

We went for two runs of painted on site cabinetry, in BM "Vellum" (if you've seen Fishie's reveal, Vellum, and her color, Barley, are virtually indistinguishable but you'll find one or other just looks more "right" in your space). It's a muted yellow, sort of vintage-y. But I want my cabinets to be easily repairable, hence the site brushed finished -not "factory" sprayed with catalyzed varnish or whatever. I also wanted the kitchen to look like it had been here awhile (although full overlay aren't particularly authentic, period wise, to the 1920's).

I've had white and off white cabinets, but this time I was ready to take a bit more of a chance.

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clipped on: 02.09.2013 at 09:44 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2013 at 09:45 pm

pics: Silestone LAGOON-alt. to torquay or misty cararra

posted by: kompy on 01.29.2013 at 03:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

I recently remodeled my bathroom and chose Silestone Lagoon. Even from the small sample chip, I could tell that this quartz top was the prettiest marble look-a-like I've ever seen. We have a Caesarstone Misty Cararra display in our showroom and while it's really nice and I've loved it for years....it doesn't hold a candle to LAGOON in looking more realistic.

My kitchen cabinets are on order and scheduled to go in March 2013 and I LOVE this countertop so much, I plan to us LAGOON for my kitchen tops as well.

It's softer....not as gray. Has more depth to it and looks more natural. If you're contemplating over real marble, Torquay, Misty Carrara, lighter natural stones....make sure you look at Lagoon before you decide.

I'm not done with the bathroom yet and Photobucket revamped it's site, so not sure how to post multiple photos.

But here is one close up.....Kompy

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clipped on: 02.06.2013 at 08:54 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2013 at 08:54 pm

RE: Did you line your drawers and shelves? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: momand3boys on 02.06.2013 at 12:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

Raehelen - I also used that Lifeliner under my sink and in my island cabinets. Great stuff.

I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and get some. I can use the discount coupon for Bed Bath and Beyond. Maybe before the storm hits Friday here in the NE, so I'll be able to get it done over the weekend!

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clipped on: 02.06.2013 at 02:17 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2013 at 02:17 pm

Drawer Depths of inset cabinetry

posted by: quiltgirl on 01.29.2013 at 09:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

What is the minimum depth of an inset drawer that you find most functional for the top drawer? If I have an inset base cabinet evenly divided into four drawers, how deep are those drawers on the inside?

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clipped on: 01.31.2013 at 04:29 pm    last updated on: 01.31.2013 at 04:29 pm

Anyone in Mpls. St. Paul area done soapstone counters?

posted by: needinfo1 on 01.30.2013 at 01:18 am in Kitchens Forum

This is a large metro area and yet I can find only one yard that has any sort of selection at all. I read all of these other posts from people on the east coast and S.F. Bay area where there are lots of different places to choose soapstone.Just thought I'd check if anyone know of any local resources or even an hour or two over into Wisconsin. Thanks.

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clipped on: 01.31.2013 at 02:57 pm    last updated on: 01.31.2013 at 02:58 pm

RE: KAW...why I love soapstone ! Science at work.. (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: trailrunner on 01.25.2013 at 01:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Suzanne...it is very easy. My Momma cut it out of the Orlando Sentinel newspaper in the 80's.

Cat..you are fresh !! just like the peanuts :)

Mix 2c honey
2c peanut butter
1c hot water
2 Tbsp cinnamon
3 tsp salt ( depends on how salty pb is )
may add other spices if you like and vanilla
Heat till smooth.

Mix 12 c rolled old fashioned oats , 2 c sunflower seeds, 2 c coconut ribbons ( I don't like small pieces ) 1 c sesame seeds, 1c wheat germ, 2 c chopped nuts.

Add above warm dressing and stir well. This is a double batch so you can halve it. Spread on parchment paper on large pans and bake at 300-325 for at least one hour or more. Stir frequently after first 20 min. I like mine nice and toasted. It will cont. to brown after you take it out.

ENJOY !!

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clipped on: 01.25.2013 at 07:30 pm    last updated on: 01.25.2013 at 07:30 pm

99% Finished Yellow Kitchen-pics

posted by: hlove on 03.29.2012 at 10:57 am in Kitchens Forum

As others have stated in the past, I can not express how grateful I am to have found this forum. I learned so much and ended up with a kitchen we are thrilled to have been able to create.

Some background...the house is circa 1870 in a small village setting. It is a very simple house...no intricate moldings or anything. We bought the house 3 years ago. The kitchen reno was part of a larger renovation...enclosing a back porch for a breakfast room (which you'll see), gutting the only upstairs bath, adding a new bathroom to an existing room upstairs to create a master suite, and some other smaller projects. We were originally only going to replace the vinyl floors in the kitchen with new vinyl and change out the counters, but we ended up doing more and are so happy we did because it ended up solving a heating problem (uh, there were actual holes in the floors underneath the cabinets!). We also ended up raising the ceiling height 12", so we're just shy of 8'.

We went back and forth about enclosing the back screened-in porch, but we gained an office and a breakfast room, which allows us to have a great view of the back of the house, even in winter. We also have a wonderful covered porch on the front of the house.

Anyway, still need to find some area rugs/pillows, swag the kitchen chandelier to center it onto the island (totally forgot to ask them to center the light box when they demo'd!), and find hooks for the coffee mugs, as well as maybe painting the hutch in the breakfast room.

Anyway, here's the info:

Cabinets: Unfinished maple inset from Crystal Cabinetry
Cabinet Paint: BM Advance Hawthorne Yellow (we painted them)
Hardware: Amerock
Handles: Mulholland in Rustic Brass
Cup Pulls & Knobs: Manor in Weathered Brass

Sink: Kohler Verse 33" single bowl overmount stainless
Insinkerator air switch (brushed nickel, I think): Love, love this (thanks GW!)
Faucet: Delta Leland
Hood: Zephyr 36" island
Range: GE electric (came with house)
Dishwasher: Bosch (purchased 2 years ago)
Fridge: Whirlpool Gold (purchased 2 years ago)
Under counter oven: "pre-owned" 27" GE Profile convection
(bought on CL for $90 last year...it's pretty old, but works great!)
Counters: Formica Lime Stone- honed finish
Flooring: red oak with white stain
Island prep table: purchased 3 years ago at local restaurant supply shop
Shelves: made by contractor, we painted: BM Advance Apple Blossom
Kitchen Walls: BM Aura Fine China
Breakfast room walls: BM Aura Whispering Pink
Kitchen chandelier: Etsy, painted to match room
Breakfast room chandelier: Ebay
Windows/Door: Marvin Integrity series

Before (after replacing dishwasher and refrigerator and tearing off wallpapered backsplash):

"

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Ben Moore Hawthorne yellow on Crystal cabinets unpainted maple cabs
clipped on: 12.30.2012 at 02:31 pm    last updated on: 12.30.2012 at 02:33 pm

RE: How to select a vented hood (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: buehl on 12.25.2012 at 01:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

Based on your cooking - which, as Weissman noted, is the most important factor when determining your venting needs - I would still recommend a hood 6" wider than your cooking surface (36" wide over a 30" cooktop/range), 24" deep, and at least 600cfms. Searing and sauteing can create more grease, etc. than boiling water or simmering sauce.

If you grilled and/or fried, I would recommend a 27" deep hood with 900+ cfms.


Edited: Typos!

This post was edited by buehl on Tue, Dec 25, 12 at 13:59

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clipped on: 12.25.2012 at 03:26 pm    last updated on: 12.25.2012 at 03:26 pm

Under Cabinet Lighting

posted by: olivertwist on 12.19.2012 at 08:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've read a lot but I'm still so confused.

I thought I read the LED lights are the most eco-friendly.
KD and electrician today said that not only are they the most expensive, but that people aren't really happen with LED lights, they make too many "spots" of light.

They are recommending Xenon lights.

Any thoughts?

Can anyone summarize the different types?

Thanks.

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clipped on: 12.19.2012 at 10:31 pm    last updated on: 12.19.2012 at 10:31 pm

Paper Towels--To Those With Built In Holders

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 06.08.2012 at 08:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

For those that have these.... do you still like them? Is it an issue with dirty/wet hands grabbing the towels (dirtying cabs and/or getting them wet)??

Would you do it again?

beagles I think?-
7298366750_7273ed9402

fx78td

Cabinetry13PaperTowelHolder

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clipped on: 12.12.2012 at 08:38 pm    last updated on: 12.12.2012 at 08:38 pm

Microwave small enough to fit in an upper cabinet?

posted by: summersucks on 05.16.2011 at 02:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

So I've searched and searched and have had no success. Does anyone here actually have a microwave that's shallow enough to fit in an upper cabinet, so only 12" deep? or less?

I wonder if this is even possible or if I am doomed to have a MW sitting on my counter forever :o(

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clipped on: 12.05.2012 at 07:57 pm    last updated on: 12.05.2012 at 07:57 pm

RE: 3/4" Beadboard ceiling, questions (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: ctycdm on 12.04.2012 at 06:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's some beadboard wainscot, looking down on the baseboard. Again, just primer.

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clipped on: 12.05.2012 at 07:46 pm    last updated on: 12.05.2012 at 07:46 pm

RE: 3/4" Beadboard ceiling, questions (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: ctycdm on 12.04.2012 at 06:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

Been doing renovations for 30 plus years, we always caulk both between the V-grooves and at the end joints. Prime first, sand, and caulk just prior to finish coat. (caulking doesn't sand well)
The picture is one we're working on right now, this is primer and caulk, before finish...

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clipped on: 12.05.2012 at 07:46 pm    last updated on: 12.05.2012 at 07:46 pm

Quick Help! Placement of cup pulls

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 12.05.2012 at 10:09 am in Kitchens Forum

I want them in the center of the drawer (top to bottom).
Do I remember reading that b/c of an optical illusion they should be placed slightly above so that they look centered???

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clipped on: 12.05.2012 at 07:12 pm    last updated on: 12.05.2012 at 07:12 pm

So I've been writing up a "reveal" post, and....

posted by: drbeanie2000 on 12.05.2012 at 01:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

What would really make the most sense would be the post the layout in addition to the pictures. The final layout that we received has a copyright on it, it's the kitchen place's intellectual property. I know I can't pass off the drawings as mine and post them, but if I leave the copyright and the name of the place and designer, can that work? The place was working with the sketches/measurements my KD drew out - should I credit her?

I should know more about this, truly. But I don't.

TIA,bean

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clipped on: 12.05.2012 at 07:09 pm    last updated on: 12.05.2012 at 07:09 pm

Pictures of properly installed farm sink counter top

posted by: beachbum on 08.22.2008 at 08:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

I remember some time back there being an intense discussion about the "right" way that the countertop should be around a farm sink.
At the time I was so far away from dealing with those types of details that I didn't make notes or clip the pictures.
Anyone want to recap / share pictures for me?

FWIW, my sink and columns will not bump out at all.
thanks.

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clipped on: 12.05.2012 at 07:08 pm    last updated on: 12.05.2012 at 07:08 pm

RE: Replacing Tableware - White Plates (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 12.02.2012 at 09:17 am in Kitchens Forum

I bought the Pottery Barn Emma in a mixture of their yellow and white pieces. The only thing I don't like about them is that the dinner plate is heavier than I wanted. However, after looking and looking I loved the look the most and the yellow ones are a GORGEOUS shade : )

pottery_barn_emma_plates

pottery_barn_emma_yellow_flat_cup_P0000190662S0010T2

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clipped on: 12.04.2012 at 10:35 am    last updated on: 12.04.2012 at 10:36 am

RE: Mudroom floor, connected to kitchen (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: zelmar on 11.27.2012 at 07:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

I love our slate tile mudroom floor. We put it down over 20 years ago and it's still beautiful. Dh is about to lay some additional slate in a corner of the mudroom where we didn't put any down before. We'll take the opportunity to reseal the entire floor. I think we resealed one other time.

Our slate floor transitions to the maple kitchen floor in a doorless doorway. I like the way the 2 materials look next to each other

I think a transition a couple of feet into your breakfast room could work, similar to the way fireplace hearths butt up to wood floors.

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clipped on: 11.27.2012 at 10:39 pm    last updated on: 11.27.2012 at 10:39 pm

Will I hate tile floor? + other tile questions...

posted by: rhome410 on 10.31.2012 at 02:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

Backstory: As I mentioned in a thread about Marmoleum Click, we are taking ours out and looking for another alternative. Under serious consideration is LVT planks. But installed, it'd be about $7/sq ft. We are terminal DIYers (we built approx 95% of our house), but DH is over-, over-booked for the foreseeable future, and I'd like my floor put back together in this decade. ;) After DH helped them get started, our boys did our Marmoleum Click, but I read that the vinyl planks are tougher to put together, and just thought a pro crew would be the best bet.

I had also considered the bulletproofness of porcelain tile, until I saw that the tile I was interested in was $7/sq ft, plus $6.50/sq ft installation... So had ruled it out, because of price, in addition to the complaints of hardness.

Now: Sunday I stopped at Lowes and found much less expensive tile and the wheels began to turn again. So here are my questions:

1) Will I hate tile floors? I've never had them. I'm 52, so am heading into an age in which things like hard floors might be a problem? We have 8 kids (mostly teens), large dogs, cats... a busy house and extremely busy kitchen.

2) Are tile floors a reasonable DIY project, or is there WAY more to getting it in and precisely flat than I imagine? Our sons and I have worked on backsplashes and our 48" x 64" inset, penny-round tile 'rug' in our entry, but not a whole floor. And our Marmoleum covers not only our large kitchen, but our back hall and utility/sewing room, so about 1200 sq ft. (We just built our house 5 yrs ago, and it is extremely plumb, flat, etc... We have floor joists with plywood sub floor)

3) Is there a difference in the quality of tiles that warrant a $7/sq ft price over $2/sq ft? I am only considering those that are porcelain and rectified.

Thanks so much.

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clipped on: 11.27.2012 at 08:59 am    last updated on: 11.27.2012 at 09:00 am

Xpost-LED Temperature in Various Spots of Kitchen

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 11.25.2012 at 08:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are doing Seagull dimmable LEDs for UCL and are also doing them around the face frames of our upper cabinets. I'm wondering if we should do the same temp for both spots? If we mix them does it look bad?
Also, I'm deciding between 2700 and 3000 K. I like warm so am thinking 2700 but I hear 3000 is still warm. Any thoughts?

Our kitchen cabs are white uppers with a warm yellow on the lowers. Walnut and white Imperial Danby marble counters.

I posted in Lighting but didn't hear from anyone so far : )

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clipped on: 11.27.2012 at 08:12 am    last updated on: 11.27.2012 at 08:12 am

RE: Kitchen cabinets cleaning? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: mainecoonkitty on 11.02.2012 at 02:42 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

I have a new house with custom Amish cherry cabinets and woodwork. The cabinet maker who made my cabinets recommended Guardsmen and Method Wood cleaner. He told me never to use any product with silicone or any chemicals on the label that I could not pronounce! The Method Wood Cleaner does a great job taking any dirt or splashes off the wood, and I love its almond scent. I use it on a daily basis when I've cleaning up, then once a week, use Guardsmen for a good polish.

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clipped on: 11.23.2012 at 09:25 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2012 at 09:25 pm

RE: I hate hoods! alternatives? (Follow-Up #39)

posted by: palimpsest on 06.13.2011 at 11:31 am in Kitchens Forum

The pictures I showed, the mantel/cabinet hoods that Iinker showed use the guts that caryscott showed to make a hood look like anything or nothing at all. if you want a barrel shape you could use the insert and make a hood out of curved drywall or bendy board to create a barrel as long as the inside was lined with fireproof material (they make SS insert liners for this) and was high enough to meet code for distance to flammable materials. You don't need to buy an entire hood and cover it.

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clipped on: 11.22.2012 at 09:37 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2012 at 09:37 pm

RE: I hate hoods! alternatives? (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: anna_chosak on 06.12.2011 at 08:22 am in Kitchens Forum

Mine is being made by ModernAire (they are great to deal with, Pat Hartman in particular--big company quality with a small company service mentality). It will look sort of like this, only in black and wider:

The base price for a non-stainless steel 48" wide was somewhere in the neighborhood of $2K. It's when you start adding higher CFMs and bands and pot rails that you get into the $5K neighborhood.

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clipped on: 11.22.2012 at 09:36 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2012 at 09:36 pm

a bunch of winter decor pictures/ideas

posted by: purplemoon on 12.20.2011 at 10:02 pm in Holiday Forum

These were some I'd saved (in our albums too. Even tho I'm not normally a white decor luvin' gal, I sure do find it very appealing and pretty for winter decorating. (and especially with silver and mercury glass).

Christmas Jars by saucydragonfly

white Christmas decor

white Pearl Berry Spray arrangement

Foyer Floral Arrangement by bonnie

Silver Tray decorations by Cattknap

Candle Ornament Bowl

Small Stacked Plates with Evergreens

Pinecone n Berries table decor

Dollar Tree plastic fruit, sprayed with METALLIC gold (or silver) paint!

gilded fruit, inexpensive plastic fruit from the dollar store, sprayed with metallic gold paint.

Remember Judith's beautiful stacked plates done so elegantly!

Judith's White Christmas stacked plates

Hope you enjoyed all the ideas and eye candy,
hugs, Karen

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clipped on: 11.18.2012 at 04:03 pm    last updated on: 11.18.2012 at 04:03 pm

DIYer's, any tips on getting the cabinets perfectly level?

posted by: mudworm on 11.12.2012 at 12:15 am in Kitchens Forum

We are going to install floor after our cabinets are in. Our floor will span three rooms, all currently just have subfloors, which are in various shapes and species. So, we are going to put down 1/4" OSB and then 3/4" flooring when the time comes. That means we need to build a 1" base for the cabinets.

My question for your DIYer's or those who were heavily involved in the process, if you have followed the same sequence, how did you deal with the build up? I'm pondering following options:
1) cut 1" thick plywood 24" wide and lay down along the walls according to the cabinet layout plan, leaving the gap under fridge and dishwasher. However, I know our walls are not perfectly straight and may have bulges even in the middle, so I'm fairly certain that when installing cabinets we'll end up having some gap behind the cabinets here any there. We have a galley kitchen of 19'4" long. Should I be worried that the cabinets bottom may be hanging over the base where the cabinets are forward from the wall?

2) Then I have another idea... Maybe instead of laying out plywood sheets, I can have some small blocks (e.g. 2x2 at 1" thick). I'll lay them down when I install the cabinets... say, each supported on four blocks. The front of the block will be flush with the front of the cabinet bottom, so the floor can be laid up to the cabinets with the seam hidden under toe kick. One advantage I see with this is should there be any minor flood, there is enough room under the the cabinet bottom that the cabinets will not be damaged and they will be easy to dry out.

How did you do it?

Now to the question in the thread title, any tips and tricks to ensure a perfectly level cabinet installation? We will have a very long L shaped stone counter top (15'x9') and I don't have non-level cabinets which will cause headache when the countertop is installed. (I know, they can shim them, but I'd like to get it as right as possible from the beginning.)

Thank you!

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clipped on: 11.13.2012 at 09:54 pm    last updated on: 11.13.2012 at 09:55 pm

Is there a warm, white granite/quarzite?

posted by: athenab on 10.21.2012 at 01:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

After getting sticker-shock at the price of 'honed' marble, I have decided to give granite or quarzite a shot. However, every 'white' variation that I see is too cold for my dark (little sunshine) kitchen. All the grays and blues in stones like Super White, or Kashmir White, don't appeal to me. That's why I stayed away from the economically feasible Carrara marble too. Too much gray. Now I am considering going to a non-white stone, such as Colonial Cream. But it's so far from my original vision of the 'look' I wanted.

So, is there a white stone with warmer tones?

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clipped on: 10.23.2012 at 10:27 am    last updated on: 11.13.2012 at 08:34 pm

RE: Kitchen cabinet advice (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: taggie on 11.10.2012 at 04:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

Yes, second the need to see the kitchen specifically. Can't tell any of the details from what you posted.

Quickly though, yes for sure I'd change to a single 24" upper instead of 2x12s. On the 24" drawer stack, not sure what to say. Are there pot drawers on the other side of the range? If so, a single 4-drawer 24" stack could be great for utensils, baking tools, measuring cups, etc. Are your cabs framed or frameless?

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clipped on: 11.11.2012 at 10:00 pm    last updated on: 11.11.2012 at 10:00 pm

1" Thick solid wood cabinets

posted by: kitchendetective on 11.11.2012 at 12:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

Please settle a bet for me. What cabinet makers can you name who make 1" thick, solid wood cabinets. Can be small, private custom cabinet makers or well-known manufacturers. Thank you so much, in advance.

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clipped on: 11.11.2012 at 09:03 pm    last updated on: 11.11.2012 at 09:03 pm

small lit uppers

posted by: czecheart on 11.10.2012 at 10:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

What do you guys think of a cabinet kitchen layout design which uses small cabinets 18 x 12 inches ( with glass fronts and lights) when they are placed above upper cabinets?

What genre of kitchen do you see those boxes being used?
Are they not trendy anymore?

I'm going for white/marble, subway / farmhouse kitchen genre. Thinking of using them on one back wall, there would be 6 cabinets , above three 18 inch cabinets on either side of the range hood. I'm only wanting to use them on one wall.

What do think?

Do you like then? Why, why not?

Thanks

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clipped on: 11.11.2012 at 08:46 pm    last updated on: 11.11.2012 at 08:47 pm

RE: microwave on floating shelf (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: kudzu9 on 10.28.2012 at 03:36 am in Kitchens Forum

I have floating shelves in my kitchen that carry a lot more weight than a microwave (like dozens and dozens of hardback cookbooks). My shelves are so strong I could probably do chinups on them. They are supported by brackets that were bolted to the studs before the sheetrock was installed. What pokes through the sheetrock at intervals are steel rods about 1/2" in diameter and 10" long that are welded to the hidden brackets. The floating shelves are carefully drilled on the back edge with 5/8" holes that match the spacing of the rods, and the shelves just slide on until the back sides butt into the wall. There are small, unnoticeable screws that are on the underside of the shelves -- one per rod -- that are tightened against the rods to keep everything securely in place.

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clipped on: 10.28.2012 at 08:08 pm    last updated on: 10.28.2012 at 08:08 pm

RE: Lighting questions - what did you dim and is it worth it? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: felixnot on 10.23.2012 at 07:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Dimmers are a hedge against fear of bad lighting decisions. Rarely used, expensive to install and of all rooms, the kitchen is the worst place to have dimmers. Go with a variety of fixtures: 4" diameter down lights, led under cabinets, a light over your table or island, a general room light. Put them all on separate switches. Light the room evenly. All under cab lights on one switch, all down lights on one switch, etc.

Yes it seems like a lot. Nothing is worse than inadequate lighting in a kitchen.

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clipped on: 10.27.2012 at 10:03 pm    last updated on: 10.27.2012 at 10:03 pm

Does anyone here cook on an antique range?

posted by: zeebee on 10.21.2007 at 01:28 pm in Appliances Forum

My husband and I just closed on a house that has a vintage Magic Chef gas range from the 1920s or 1930s. The prior owners used it every day but it needs an overhaul - it's not well insulated, everything has to be lit with a match, and neither of the two ovens holds consistent temperature.

I'm interested to hear from anyone who cooks on an antique range - Chambers, Magic Chef, O'Keefe and Merritt, any of the manufacturers. I'd like to know how your overhauled range performs - are you a regular baker, are the ovens big enough, does the range throw off a lot of heat when in use, are you able to get consistent cooking temperatures in the ovens?

Thanks for any advice or information you can give me!

Here is a link that might be useful: Magic Chef model very similar to mine

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clipped on: 10.23.2012 at 11:37 am    last updated on: 10.23.2012 at 11:37 am

Cambria Torquay pics please! Considering canceling my Silestone

posted by: enright5 on 06.12.2012 at 04:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

If anyone has any pics of Cambria Torquay in a real finished kitchen I would love it. I just placed my order for order Silestone Lagoon. They are set to measure this Friday, but am having second thoughts thinking it might be took conservative or blah. Im considering canceling my order.

I LOVE cararra marble and know I can't duplicate it but hoping to get the feel of it with a quartz. Lyra is another option but I felt it looks like it has ink squiggles/ lines on it after I look at it for a while.

Thank you!!

This is literally keeping me up at night!

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clipped on: 10.12.2012 at 09:11 pm    last updated on: 10.12.2012 at 09:11 pm

Foot Pedal for Trash Can

posted by: boysrus2 on 08.06.2008 at 09:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

After reading about it here, I'd like to get some sort of foot pedal for my trash can. Is Haefele (sp?) the only brand? Can you recommend one for my type of trash can set-up? I do not have bluemotion or soft close. See my pics below.

My GC comes back on Monday to finish the kitchen. Do I need to have him install this or is it something we can do after the fact? I'm supposed to have a toe kick underneath this run of lower cabinets? Will this cause an install problem?

Thanks for the input! I don't know anything about these devices.

Trash Pull Out, Side View

View of the trash can drawer to the right of microwave. Missing a few drawer fronts and hardware.

Trash Pull Out on right

Below, this is an example of the toe kick that will be installed and centered below the microwave and trash can.

Toe Kick

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clipped on: 10.05.2012 at 09:53 am    last updated on: 10.05.2012 at 09:53 am

Does warm-glow under-cabinet LED lighting really exist?

posted by: MareLuce on 10.04.2012 at 11:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

Does warm-glow under-cabinet LED lighting really exist?

I dislike the medicinal harsh white or blue-ish white cast that most LEDs send off.

My kitchen is "Texas country" with maple cabinets, limestone nearby, and highlights of deep reds and greens. I'm looking for a LED under-cabinet light that is truly warm, or as warm as possible.

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clipped on: 10.05.2012 at 09:41 am    last updated on: 10.05.2012 at 09:41 am

End is Near!!! (Pic Heavy) creamy, inset, timeless kitchen

posted by: phorbin on 01.02.2012 at 01:46 am in Kitchens Forum

I never thought it would ever get to this point. It was well worth the wait. I would like to thank everyone here at GW. You folks know some stuff!!! Kateskouros your kitchen photos were my inspiration.

the wife and i bought our dream house. It is a raised basement craftsman style house. It was built in 1917.Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug

beforePhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMugPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMugPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMug

so we knock down a few walls and add a few things.....
custom built cabinets
honed alabama white
waterstone faucets
kohler farmhouse and bar sink
pulls, latches, hinges, transom hardware from Ricca's in New Orleans
fridge handles from schaub
bar and pantry handles from Ricca's

36" Bertazonni Heritage Range Cream H366GGVCR
42" Jenn-Air French door Fridg JF42NXFXDW
27" Jenn-Air Electric Oven JJW2327WS
Miele Dishwasher MG2872SCVi
15" Marvel wine fridge 30WCMBBOR
15" Marvel ice machine 30iMTBBOLP
24" Marvel undercounter fridg 61ARMWWOL
Broan 900 cfm hood vent

Sherwin williams paint used
Cabinets painted to match stove
ceilings: creamy SW7012
Walls: white hyacinth SW0046
trim: classic light buff SW0050

floors are oak with jacobean
Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug
Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMugPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMugPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMugPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMugPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMugPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMugPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMugPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMugPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMug

custom made air vents for fridge
Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMugPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMugPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMugPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMugPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMug

led strip lighting above and below cabsPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMugPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMug

view from front porchPhoto & Video Sharing by SmugMug

if anyone remembers i was the one with the chipped marble during the install. i will do a follow up in that post.

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clipped on: 09.17.2012 at 10:09 pm    last updated on: 09.17.2012 at 10:10 pm

How about yellow cabinets? Bad for resale?

posted by: annab6 on 05.19.2009 at 02:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

There is a high-end place near us which has a display with yellow glazed cabinets I always notice. Here is another version from their website:

http://www.kuche-cucina.com/kitchens_TRD5.htm

The color always felt more cook-friendly to me than white or cream but I haven't thought of it for our kitchen just because it is not a commonly used one.

We are not planning to sell soon but most likely will sell sometime (may be in 12-15 years) and also want to be in good shape in case we have to sell sooner. So we picked stained maple to keep it light and practical (nothing ordered yet, long story).

But now that we are painting the house, I realized that warm yellow tones look great in our house so I am thinking of that yellow again or may be even doing yellow uppers with dark walnut-color lowers (we are using custom cabinetry also, just not as high-end as this particular place).

What does everyone think? Like or dislike?

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clipped on: 09.15.2012 at 11:00 pm    last updated on: 09.15.2012 at 11:00 pm

How do you open and close your toekick drawers

posted by: lalitha on 08.15.2012 at 06:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

How do you open and close your toe kick drawers? I seem to remember a mechanism to push, click, open and close. I do not want to put any knobs or pulls .. my cabinet guy says "whatever you want".. What should I want?

Lalitha

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clipped on: 09.08.2012 at 11:14 pm    last updated on: 09.08.2012 at 11:14 pm

My soapstone is in!

posted by: ayerg73 on 05.15.2012 at 09:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

My Anasazi soapstone was installed today!

Soapstone isn't something you see in my area at all. Our fabricators had to come 3 hours to install. It was cool to watch my GC checking it out and asking the owner of the company all about it. I think they might pick up some business in our area if they are willing to make the drive again!

DSC08040

DSC08048

The best picture I could manage to get of the runnels...

DSC08034

My very favorite vein. It looks like it's own tiny galaxy.

DSC08043

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clipped on: 05.21.2012 at 11:00 am    last updated on: 05.21.2012 at 11:00 am

Bay Area and vintage kitchen help

posted by: juno2008 on 05.17.2012 at 12:05 am in Kitchens Forum

Someone on the old house forum suggested I come over here. Our 950 sf bungalow was built sometime between 1906 and 1909. It's gone through 100 years of bad renovations, and we're trying to undo it all. We've almost finished the rest of the house, and we're ready to start on the kitchen later this year. Here's what we're starting with (we sourced the bin table and oven on Craigslist):

http://i40.tinypic.com/2aetl40.jpg

http://i46.tinypic.com/2v2i7oi.jpg

The cabinets are warped plywood. It seemed like the other board agreed we do not need an architect for a kitchen layout. I guess at this point I'm looking for general layout advice for a kitchen that would be period appropriate while still being practical. I'm not a gadget person and I do like open space on the walls (not wall to wall cabinets), but I do know I need to be practical in case we are forced to relocate someday and sell the house to someone else. Also, do any of you have any experience with any SF bay area cabinet makers? I'm looking for no toe kicks, inset drawers/doors, and perhaps a CA cooler cabinet vented to the basement.

Another question: I'm coveting the converted wooden iceboxs that I've seen online. Has anyone ever had one of those quoted? I'm afraid it's a $5,000 job, which will never fly with the hubby, haha. Is the best alternative to a vintage fridge a fully integrated fridge, and is that any better price-wise?

Any comments, general ideas, layout suggestions?

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clipped on: 05.19.2012 at 11:34 am    last updated on: 05.19.2012 at 11:34 am

RE: Cabinet quotes (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: RRM1 on 10.06.2011 at 12:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have a very close friend in Santa Barbara that is a custom cabinet maker that builds almost exclusively there and Malibu. Needless to say, these are very high-end jobs. Most builders don't charge by the box, but bid by linear feet for uppers and lowers. Then doors and drawers are added separately. Any additional things like scribing and particular finishes are nominal add-ons.

So, as a guess-timate in your area look at $160-180 per foot of uppers and the same for lowers. About $100-120/door or drawer. Then Installation should be about $100/box plus mileage costs. Everything else is minor.

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clipped on: 04.28.2012 at 10:35 pm    last updated on: 04.28.2012 at 10:35 pm

RE: Cabinet quotes (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: GreenDesigns on 10.06.2011 at 12:04 am in Kitchens Forum

A single cabinet can take up 10 lines of the order with various codes attached for the different options. It's gobbledy gook for anyone but someone in the trade. Some of my orders have run 40 pages worth of incomprehensible jargon. You don't need a line item comparison. You need a total, and a KD who can tell you how to cut costs if that's what you need.

Basically, the more elaborate the doorstyle, the more money. Sometimes by as much as 10x the cost in the same line. Thermofoil is the cheapest option in some lines. Oak in a simple door style in another. Oak is the cheapest wood for the same doorstyle, then birch, then maple, then hickory, then alder, then cherry, then paint. Glazing adds costs. Distressing adds costs. Drawer glides are expensive, so adding drawer cabinets cost almost double what a regular cabinet will. Any organizer will also almost double the cost of the cabinet. Some organizers will be about triple what a plain cabinet will be. Tall pantry cabinets cost the most. 8-10x the cost of a plain base cabinet. Moldings are insanely expensive and stacked moldings can be 1/3 of the cost of the entire quote. Same with glass cabinets and other decorative elements.

Basically, everything you want will be extra. ;) But, the only thing that really counts is how much the total quote ends up being.

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clipped on: 04.28.2012 at 10:22 pm    last updated on: 04.28.2012 at 10:22 pm

Finished Pictures! Old Farmhouse Kitchen

posted by: danielle00 on 03.27.2009 at 07:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

I think it's a given that we are only about 98% finished.. a few odds and ends to do.

We bought an old farmhouse in '08. It was in great shape, but the kitchen was not very efficient. We removed a chimney, shifted a door, raised the windows and ended up with a ton more space. We wanted it to look like it belonged in the house-- Crown Point really helped us achieve the look we were going for.

Here are the details... let me know if I forgot something:

Cabinets: Crown Point frameless, old cupboard door, quartersawn oak perimeter w/ candlelight stain; island inset w/ slate blue milk paint
Counters: Green Mountain Original soapstone perimeter; Carrara island
Floor: Pine rescued from under two layers of vinyl & glue
Appliances: BlueStar range, Jenn-Air refrigerator, Bosch DW, Electrolux Icon wall oven; Prestige hood.
Sink: Ticor
Faucet: Kindred
Lights: Schoolhouse electric
Wall Color: BM Philadephia Cream at 75% intensity

BEFORE:
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AFTER:

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eating area adjacent to kitchen (not renovated, but we painted and got rid of some shelving) Hate to use the Boos Butcher block as a microwave table, but I had no place for it in the new kitchen.

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clipped on: 04.28.2012 at 09:03 pm    last updated on: 04.28.2012 at 09:03 pm

Cabinets first, or floors?

posted by: BlackChamois on 04.23.2012 at 03:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am remodeling my kitchen (completely gutting - new cabinets, counters, appliances, floors, etc.) My contractor is suggesting installing the floors and then putting the cabinets on top. I have mentioned this to sales people at the flooring stores, and most of them say you should install the cabinets first, then lay the flooring up to the cabinets.

I would like to hear from the community out there on the pros/cons and your thoughts.

I will be doing an engineered hard wood with a glue down installation due to the type of subfloor I have.

Thank you kindly!

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clipped on: 04.25.2012 at 08:54 am    last updated on: 04.25.2012 at 08:54 am

RE: Need help with Kitchen Remodel Budget (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: Angie_DIY on 04.12.2012 at 06:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

For comparison, you should at least price out your cabs from Scherr's. They are fully custom, which may help you maximize your layout.

FWIW, they have a "select" cherry option (sapwood only allowed to show on edges) at 10% upcharge as well as the "premium" cherry (no sapwood allowed) at 35% upcharge.

Here is a link that might be useful: Scherr's door and RTA cabs

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clipped on: 04.13.2012 at 10:08 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2012 at 10:08 pm

RTA Cabinets (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: pshaffer on 04.12.2012 at 04:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

We priced out our cabinets on Barker Cabinets last night, natural finish (conversion varnish) with all the upgrades in cherry. Including the island, it was around $6700. It didn't include toe kicks, knobs, crown, but it did include end panels and a back panel for the island. We will request a quote for the Conestoga cabinets tonight from cabinetauthority or cabinetmakers choice. I imagine they are all very competitive since they are ordering off the same price sheet from conestoga. Does anyone know how much sapwood is in the standard cherry grade from consetoga versus the premium cherry grade? We would be doing a natural finish, so sapwood needs to be minimal, but there is a 35% upcharge for premium grade cherry. Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.

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clipped on: 04.13.2012 at 10:05 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2012 at 10:06 pm

RE: Need help with Kitchen Remodel Budget (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: Heatherash8210 on 04.12.2012 at 11:13 am in Kitchens Forum

I think 20K is doable. We will be around 20K when we finish.
We bought out cabinets from a company called Conestoga. They are RTA cabinets but beutifully done. Each cabinet took 15 minutes to put together. And for a DIYer that should be a breeze. We even upgraded to 100% plywood, inset, dovetail drawers, and endpanels incomporated into teh cabinet. We spent 4300, but would have spent 2000 more but saved on painting the cabinets yourself. We are painting them white but If you stained your cabinets yourself you could save $$$. we even have all drawers so that was a large chunK. Are kitchen is 11 x 12 and there are 17 cabinets.

we got a french door fridge for 1500 reg 2400, stove 1800 Kitchenaid pro, hood is broan prof 600, and we had the dishwasher.

I think if you put a lot of planning and finding the best prices you could definetly do your kitchen under 20K. If you have any questions on what we got or some great sites let me know.

Conestoga cabinets- cabinetauthority.com if you google RTA or Conestoga they will have reviews.

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clipped on: 04.13.2012 at 10:05 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2012 at 10:05 pm

Barker Cabinets (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: pshaffer on 04.11.2012 at 09:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am VERY intrigued by barker cabinets and doors. They seem like really solid RTA cabinets. What are people's experiences with them. What about their wood quality, lots of sapwood for cherry? What about their conversion finishing?

Also, thanks for the heads up on kitchenguys.com. We are on a long time frame for range and dishwasher, so we will just monitor that site for the appliances we want and get the customer returns for half price.

Keep the ideas coming, I love it. Thanks a ton.

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clipped on: 04.13.2012 at 10:04 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2012 at 10:04 pm

RE: This Is interesting. (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Jumpilotmdm on 04.12.2012 at 09:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

I design 2 banks of drawers in every kitchen if I can. One for pots & pans 27 or 30 wide and 1 18" trad. 4 drawer.

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clipped on: 04.13.2012 at 09:07 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2012 at 09:07 pm

Roll-out cabinet shelves - Custom or not?

posted by: eleena on 04.04.2012 at 03:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

I need to add several roll-out shelves throughout the house. I Googled and got overwhelmed with choices, mostly b/c I cannot see the prices till I am well into the "design" phase (which is understandable for custom-made stuff). The Container Store has a few, but in limited sizes, of course.

If you have a favorite place or have ordered from a particular maker, could you recommend some?

Thanks!

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clipped on: 04.04.2012 at 08:39 pm    last updated on: 04.04.2012 at 08:39 pm

RE: Evening out the color (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: live_wire_oak on 03.24.2012 at 02:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Then you'll want to use a wood conditioner and possibly a dye rather than a stain, depending on wood type. And have plenty of scrap on hand to practice with as controlling the depth of the color can be pretty tricky. One trick that some use is to use shellac or tung oil greatly thinned down as a quick first coat on the more porous ends and then stain. It depends on the products you plan to use if they are compatible with this method or not. I would personally recommend General Finishes products all day long and twice on Sundays over the more readily available Minwax products.

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clipped on: 03.25.2012 at 08:57 pm    last updated on: 03.25.2012 at 08:57 pm

RE: Which White Grout and Which Sealer? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: davidro1 on 03.19.2012 at 11:16 am in Kitchens Forum

Web search this: "Grout Boost"

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clipped on: 03.25.2012 at 08:20 pm    last updated on: 03.25.2012 at 08:20 pm

RE: Which White Grout and Which Sealer? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cat_mom on 03.19.2012 at 01:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Don't know if I can readily tell the difference (tile guys said it was a bit "stickier" consistency or texture-wise, but other than that it gets mixed up the same--fairly stiff mixture, and a fairly "dry" clean-up).

The shower that has regular TEC grout is in the guest bathroom, which isn't used very often (except while we reno'd the upstairs bathrooms). The grout did crack slightly (a year or two after it was completed) on the shower wall along the bottom corner of the niche--I couldn't say if it would have done so had we used the TEC XT.

We like the peace of mind afforded us by XT (and it's purported improvements over regular grout), but cannot tell you if it's all that much better or not in reality. So far it looks great and we're happy about that.

Sorry I couldn't give a more definitive answer.

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clipped on: 03.25.2012 at 08:20 pm    last updated on: 03.25.2012 at 08:20 pm

RE: Which White Grout and Which Sealer? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: remodelfla on 03.19.2012 at 04:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

We used Laticrete epoxy grout everywhere. Flooring, bathroom, and backsplash. Whenever we get to the master bath, we will use it as well. Never stains and you don't have to seal it. It's more expensive by far and may cost you more in labor since it's a PIA to use. Worth it in the long run to me~

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clipped on: 03.25.2012 at 08:18 pm    last updated on: 03.25.2012 at 08:18 pm

Wainscoting opinions please!!

posted by: chloe.chloe on 03.24.2012 at 09:48 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello!! I am hoping you all don't mind me posting here...my question is about wainscoting for our downstairs (kitchen too)....I know there are a lot of you who have white shaker-style cabinets here so I thought you would have some good insight!! Thank you so much in advance! ;=) Please see below:

I am crazy about wainscoting and having grown up in New England, it is quite common in homes there. The home my husband and I are going to build is small (1700 sq/ft) but the downstairs is completely open concept. We have decided on white shaker cabinets for the kitchen with a darker engineered hardwood floor throughout the main level.
I would love to add wainscoting throughout the entire first floor in the family room,kitchen and connecting dining room (everything seen completely from the entrance way)but I wasn't sure if it is just too much. I was thinking the white wainscoting would make the smaller-size downstairs appear bright and airy?
I would love some feedback on this as I really cannot decide! I'm kinda going for a Pottery Barn kinda feel for our home. Also, another idea I had was that if I did NOT go with the wainscoting in the main living areas, was to do wainscoting in the entry way....but I don't know?
Thank you so much for feedback!!!

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clipped on: 03.25.2012 at 07:57 pm    last updated on: 03.25.2012 at 07:57 pm

RE: Stacked cabinets in one part of kitchen (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Angie_DIY on 03.15.2012 at 02:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

I know I am not answering your question, but have you considered getting 42" cabs (one box), but put two doors on them? That is what we did; way less than true stacked cab. There is a fixed shelf at the spot where the doors meet.

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clipped on: 03.16.2012 at 09:34 pm    last updated on: 03.16.2012 at 09:34 pm

RE: DIY Soapstone People Show Your Counters ! (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: mama_goose on 03.02.2012 at 09:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, since you're twisting my arm... ;).

I found a great deal on craigslist for resin lab-tops, that had been salvaged from an old high school, then used in a church fellowship hall. They were $20 each, including the oak bases.

Here are the tops (complete with students' stuck-on chewed gum) stored on the front porch:

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I talked my brother into doing the cutting, using his grinder and a diamond blade. I was in charge of templating, sanding and buffing, and finally, installing the tops, and filling the seams. My BIL used his drill press, and one of my diamond hole-saw bits for the faucet holes. We kept most of the cuts on the wall side of the slabs, so that the factory edges were exposed.

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The first of the finished tops (in salsa season):

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The following pics show the DIY runnels in progress. I used carbide router bits, and a homemade jig to keep the runnels parallel. The jig was thicker on one end, to put a gradual slope on the runnels, for draining. This is a mock-up--I forgot to take pics of the actual slab:

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The sink area (I used two-part epoxy putty to fill the seams):
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Finished counters--there's a seam in the corner, under the glass jar:
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I used a scrap to make a pad for the mixer, so that it doesn't scratch the marble as it's pulled out:
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So far the only problem I've noticed is that food cans will leave a 'metal mark', if a hand-held can opener is used. I polish them out with a smooth sanding-sponge, and polish the counter-tops with a soft cloth and a little mineral oil, if I want them to look nice for company.

***NOTE***If you are cutting or sanding epoxy resin, be sure to work outside and wear a dust mask and eye protection. I kept a shop vac outside the back door, and vacuumed off all loose dust before entering the house each time.

Here are a couple of links for info on cutting epoxy resin tops:

ehow-How to cut an epoxy resin countertop

Another ehow link

Here is a link that might be useful: DIY Runnels album with more info.

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clipped on: 03.04.2012 at 08:20 pm    last updated on: 03.04.2012 at 08:20 pm

DIY Soapstone People Show Your Counters !

posted by: enduring on 03.01.2012 at 10:17 am in Kitchens Forum

For those who asked about DYI soapstone counters on Angie_DYI 's post (new soapstone in her backyard) inquiring if there has been a post to show DYI counter...

Lets show them.

First counter installed, small one that was very pretty:
Option 3 Backsplash Tile, Cream or off white cracked glaze shiny ceramic tile. Rather large for my purposes I believe. I like this color and texture, very nice.

Large sink portion with seam down the center that Dorado pre cut for me that was very good! I glued! This is before I had a local fabricator come out and cut my sink hole:
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Recent install of several scraps I glued together to complete my "nook". No factory cut seam here but take my word for it, you can't tell the diff with my cut and glue. It is very good. I am proud. I still need to caulk in place and put a tile backsplash to finish it off:
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My other short wall area with 2 pieces installed:
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Glamour shot with my marble backsplash:
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Whats Next?
I've got 30sf of SS remnants that I am going to use in my bathroom remodel, which is just off the kitchen. I will make my own soapstone sink. I've got plenty of material to practice.

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clipped on: 03.01.2012 at 04:50 pm    last updated on: 03.04.2012 at 08:07 pm

RE: Crystal Cabinets? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: Misty (Guest) on 02.15.2011 at 07:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

For those who are interested Shiloh is NOT part of Crystal Cabinetry. One is in Dudley, Missouri and one is in Princeton Minnesota. Crystal is a higher end furniture grade custom cabinet line with a frameless custom line known as quest. They also have two semi custom lines key line and encore that allow for the more budget conscious to able to get the look with a more competitive price. The doors and finishes from their semi custom lines marry seamlessly with the full custom. As a kitchen designer, I have yet to find something crystal can't or won't make. They are truly amazing. I also sell Shiloh. That is how I know for certain they are not the same company. They are often rep'd in the north east by the same reps as Shiloh us a good pairing to crystal as it is the next price point down from their semi custom lines. But make no mistake is like comparing a Mercedes to a bentley. Both are quality products but crystal is the special, hand made, high quality completely personalized cabinet line. Their finishes and quality are beyond compare. (we also sell the omega family of cabinets which is comparable to Shiloh.) Crystal is furniture quality cabinetry.

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clipped on: 02.28.2012 at 09:40 pm    last updated on: 02.28.2012 at 09:40 pm

Do I bust the budget further for custom cabinetry?

posted by: babushka_cat on 05.20.2010 at 12:09 am in Kitchens Forum

I am grappling with which cabinetry to purchase - custom or semi custom. Will be remodeling a small 11x13 kitchen, inset style cabinetry, creamy white paint. Am over budget already but thinking this may not be the place to compromise. The options i am debating:

1. semi custom quote from omega/dynasty: $10,300. The pro's: more affordable than custom, really like the KD I am working with at shop. Con's: i don't love any of the white paint colors (one is too white, one too tan), does not maximize storage in small kitchen due to spacers in semi custom configuration, installation costs higher due to more pieces to install

2. custom: got one quote for $12,000 but not confident he can deliver (did not validate he can do inset, was a bit of an odd ball). Guessing the other two quotes will come in the range of 12K - 15K to be confirmed early next week. Pro's: maximizes storage space, can select the exact paint color i want, install costs will come down bit as less pieces to install. Con's: higher cost, already over budget

3. semi-custom with custom paint color: got a quote on dura supreme semi custom but painted my preferred benjamin moore white dove $15,000

if i go custom will need to revisit my budget to see where i can save some money but will still end up over budget. thoughts anyone? my brain hurts....

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clipped on: 02.28.2012 at 09:37 pm    last updated on: 02.28.2012 at 09:38 pm

RE: do you like pocket doors? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: brickeyee on 02.20.2012 at 03:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

"Sandy, that's not correct about the electrical outlet.
They make shallow boxes. I have some. "

The shallowest legal box is 1.25 inches deep (and 4x4, requiring a mud ring), and does not fir into a 2x4 wall with pocket hardware behind it.

If you can tolerate the small loss in floor area you can make the walls 'wet wall' (2x6) thickness and then things fit a lot easier.

Switches can easily enough be installed using low voltage wiring and relays, but receptacles are a major problem.

Remember you are likely to need receptacles on both sides of the wall.

I have had the plastic 'guides' scratch painted doors until I stopped using them and switched to hidden guides under the door in the pocket.

I have even bult and installed converging pocket doors that operate together for a lot less than the commercial kits cost.

Some steel pulley used for sliders, mounted inside the track on bolts and thin aircraft cable forming a loop do the job.
The doors are attached on opposite sides of the loop concealed in the track so they move in opposite directions.
The left door moves left to open while the right door moves the same amount to the right.

It makes for a very nice way to close off a larger opening.

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clipped on: 02.20.2012 at 08:59 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2012 at 08:59 pm

RE: do you like pocket doors? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: sandy808 on 02.20.2012 at 11:25 am in Kitchens Forum

We installed all pocket doors throughout our new home, and we absolutely love them. No more swinging doors in the way or blowing shut when the windows are open, which I find extremely annoying.

However, we stiffened all of the walls with an MDF layer sandwiched behind the wall, since I wanted a very firm feel to my walls, and purchased the most expensive Johnson pocket door hardware (aprox. $300 apiece). We have solid wood doors. They glide like butter and most people have never used a pocket door that works so nicely. We have no scratching problems whatsoever. If the doors are installed correctly, your doors will not get scratched.

It was a somewhat scary decision at the time, but I would never go back to a traditional door that swings.

Be sure to find someone that knows what they are doing when the doors are hung, if you decide to go with them.

You won't be able to put an electrical ouitlet in the wall with the pocket door.

You can hang things but they need to be braced differently than something that just nails into the wall. I think they may be called cleats. The other option is a free standing shelf unit on that wall.

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clipped on: 02.20.2012 at 08:51 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2012 at 08:51 pm

RE: do you like pocket doors? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: brickeyee on 02.20.2012 at 10:34 am in Kitchens Forum

The only thing Johnson does not have well done are the 'door guides' they supply.

The plastic eventually scratches the face of the door.

A small piece of aluminum angle in the floor of the pocket and a groove on the bottom of the door are much better.
If you stop the groove before the exposed edge of the door nothing even shows, but the door cannot sway.

Adding wood to the concealed edge of the door helps with sound and makes sure the bottom of the door stays on the floor mounted guide.

If the door has any kind of detailing you have to remember to adjust the width of the door so the detail remains centered on in jamb when the door is closed (the door needs to stay in the pocket by at least a few inches when closed).

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clipped on: 02.20.2012 at 08:44 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2012 at 08:44 pm

RE: do you like pocket doors? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: CEFreeman on 02.20.2012 at 10:28 am in Kitchens Forum

Rebuilding after a fire, we put in all pocket doors. Fifteen of them. You gain 9 SQ of floor space eliminating a swinging door. If you only close it for company, there's a good chance a regular door would stand open, too, until a visit. You have to fuss with it, sweep with it, worry about handles making holes in the walls, blah blah blah.

If you're open construction, you can EASILY build them yourself using the Johnson hardware. You do not need those huge, difficult pocket door kits. I know. I've done it myself and I'm a construction idiot.

If you're not doing new construction, opening a wall and furring it out a bit for the door isn't difficult, either. Construction people don't want to do them because they're different than regular doors, but they are not harder.

As for hardware. You can buy different size pulls for different size fingers. You don't need that button thing mentioned, either. Most pocket door pulls simply require you sticking your finger against the top of the pull and it swings out underneath your finger, which you can easily ... pull. Doors are centered with those fiberglass pads that guide them, keeping them in line. Done right, there isn't any concern about how you pull the door out. It'll only move one way.

I wouldn't have my house any other way. I'm even going thru right now and replacing my modern, unfinished, 6-panel maple doors with antique doors from the reuse center. I'm 5'2", probably 130 lbs and am doing it myself. Heavy, but pocket doors are well worth it. You could say you can change them with your decor! [LOL] Altho most people aren't that nuts.

Closets, laundry, offices, etc., Why do they need to waste space with swinging doors?

Definitely go for it.

Christine

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clipped on: 02.20.2012 at 08:44 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2012 at 08:44 pm

do you like pocket doors?

posted by: michoumonster on 02.20.2012 at 01:12 am in Kitchens Forum

I am thinking of doing a pocket door for my pantry. I like the fact that I could go in and out of the pantry carrying things without having to close the door or having the door block part of the path in the kitchen. DH thinks that it would be annoying to use a pocket door all the time. I do see what he means, but just am not sure if the benefit would outweigh the annoyance factor. Would love your opinions!

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clipped on: 02.20.2012 at 08:42 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2012 at 08:42 pm

Cabinet Latches - Yes or too much work?

posted by: slush1422 on 07.01.2011 at 01:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm going crazy trying to figure out about our cabinet hardware. Our drawers will have cup pulls which I already have in my hot little hands from Top Knobs.
From Kitchen - BEFORE & inspiration

I LOVE the cabinet latches look on the shaker doors. DH likes the look as well BUT he is worried about the ease of using. I've done many searches on GW via google to even catch old threads. My take is that most people love them, and have no issues with having to turn the knob to open the door, and having to just grab either the actual door, or the little metal piece (not sure what it's called) that the catch goes into. I think that is what is holding DH back the most from being okay with them. How the heck do you open the door that doesn't have the knob?

After months of going back and forth, DH finally said it's not something he feels so strongly about that he's going to veto it, so I went ahead and ordered them from Horton Brass. I was so excited when the arrived just a few days later. Well - since we are doing Ikea Adel White doors - they are a bit rounded and the small latches do not fit :( I was so bummed and we will have to return them now, and re-order. I am pretty sure that the larger ones will fit though so that hopefully will not be the problem. The problem is now DH is questioning them again, and I am also second guessing myself. Will they be easy to use, or will we hate them after a while?

Please - if anyone has them in their kitchen, chime in and give your opinions and let us know if they are a pain or not. I'd like to order them asap. My other option is, maybe just to do one on the sink cabinet, and one on the top fridge cabinet, and then have the little glass knobs instead on all the other cabinet doors. I know that will be just as nice, I have just been dreaming of those stupid latches since becoming TKO. Here are some kitchen pictures so you can get an idea of how things will look. TIA!

latches:

From Kitchen - BEFORE & inspiration

Inspiration (Katieob's former kitchen)

From Kitchen - BEFORE & inspiration

My kitchen in progress:

From Moon Night Granite Install

Still missing some doors and the others need adjusting

From Moon Night Granite Install

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clipped on: 02.14.2012 at 07:38 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2012 at 07:38 pm

Cabinet Latches

posted by: mobydog on 02.14.2012 at 02:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

For those of you with cabinet latches I have a few questions...I am wondering if they work with full overlay doors? I have seen many inset cabinets with them.

If you have them, do you love the ones you ordered? If so include a link to where you bought them. If you hate them, please let me know that as well.

If they work on full overlay doors, I think I will only need 3 latches (a part of the latch will be on each of the doors as they come together0.

If you all recommend against the latches, then I will be putting glass knobs on the hutch section of my cabinets.

Thank you in advance for your feedback.

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clipped on: 02.14.2012 at 07:36 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2012 at 07:36 pm

speed queen ate50 stackable, wdyt?

posted by: polie on 02.11.2012 at 04:06 pm in Laundry Room Forum

Anybody on the forum have experience with the Speed Queen ATE50 stackable washer/(electric) dryer? What do you think of it? Our old Maytag stackable that has been like a tank may finally be giving up the ghost.

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clipped on: 02.12.2012 at 08:45 am    last updated on: 02.12.2012 at 08:45 am

anyone done a brown and white tile checkerboard floor?

posted by: kjmama on 09.29.2010 at 11:59 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Thinking about a brown and white checkerboard floor, but can't seem to find the look I'm after. Anyone done this?

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clipped on: 02.10.2012 at 08:58 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2012 at 08:58 pm

Compare: Crown Point, Candlelight, Signature, Cabico

posted by: sayde on 09.17.2008 at 07:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

It seems that several of us are looking or have made decisions among these cabinets.

Erica, Alice, MamaPapa -- are you there? paulines? anyone else, please join in.

Would really love to know what are the actual differences among these brands. Is it the painted finish? The construction? the final fit and finish? the wood? is the answer different for painted versus stained?

Crown Point sent me a couple of 5 inch samples -- they seem really nice -- very low luster. I will take them with me when I visit Candlelight soon.

In the meantime, would really love to hear from anyone who has seen Signature or any of the four up close.

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clipped on: 02.10.2012 at 12:01 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2012 at 12:01 pm

RE: Compare: Crown Point, Candlelight, Signature, Cabico (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: izzyce on 10.24.2008 at 02:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

I looked at Crown Point, Signature and Plato (via Kitchen Works in Acton).

Honestly, the quality difference between Crown Point and Signature is quite dramatic. I initially was going with Signature, and my architect really steered me to Crown Point. The construction, finishing and details in his opinion were all superior with CP. I reluctantly took his advice and bit the bullet in terms of the higher price (about $5000). I also emailed with MamaDadapaige and got her advice and perspective after seeing her gorgeous photos.

The cabinets are now in, and I can tell you that the whole process was impeccable and that the cabinets are beautiful. Jeff Schneider was my designer and he came down to measure 3 times. We're in a historic house, so the floors and roof aren't exactly level. He took all of this into consideration and worked carefully with our builder to discuss installation. Like MamaDadapaige we went with the Antique White finish, and it's a gorgeous, glowing creamy white. The toe kicks got lost in delivery - no problem, Jeff reordered them and had them shipped. The process was so seamless and painless that I ordered the master bath vanity from them as well. It's perfect too (in soft white), and arrived on time and pristine.

I was a creative director for Pottery Barn in my previous life, so I'm a bit demanding (that's a nice way of saying difficult) about my house aesthetics. I am happy to chat with anyone offline if they want more input. Will post photos soon (as soon as the painters get OUT of my house).

Also... my architect told me that CP is hustling for business in these slower winter months and is getting more competitive on price. I would definitely give them a call.

Isabella

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clipped on: 02.10.2012 at 12:01 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2012 at 12:01 pm

Rcabinets (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: fori on 06.20.2011 at 11:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

Natalie, a few years ago (yeegads!) someone did inset frameless. If I recall correctly, they looked okay but didn't quite have the feel. And you still don't get ll the space savings between drawers that you would with frameless. More successful are the kitchens with frameless lowers and inset uppers, or that just do standard inset in a complementary island.

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clipped on: 02.10.2012 at 09:42 am    last updated on: 02.10.2012 at 09:42 am

Please post pics of your frameless cabinets

posted by: ecf1216 on 06.20.2011 at 10:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

One of the cabinet makers we've spoken with is really pushing us to go with frameless cabinets. I associate the frameless type with a contemporary, modern look, but he assures us it can also be more traditional. We are going for a classic/timeless feel.

I have googled "frameless cabinets," but the images don't really show a nice bank of cabinets... they tend to be more individual cabinet shots.

So, if you have frameless cabinets, I'd love to see your photos! Any input on frameless vs framed is also welcome. He did tell us the price will be the same either way.

Thanks!

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clipped on: 02.10.2012 at 09:36 am    last updated on: 02.10.2012 at 09:37 am

How To Use Ikea to Get a Custom Kitchen (High Quality)

posted by: davidro1 on 06.22.2011 at 07:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

this subject needs a thread of its own.

you can use Ikea
to save on costs, and
to get almost everything you could want... because Ikea leaves you with enough money to go get those things you really want, at another place.

Get from Ikea those parts and piece that you wish to use Ikea for, and buy the rest from other sources.

Example.
1/. buy the ikea bases
and
2a/. buy ikea-compatible drawer fronts and base cabinet doors from Scherr's and many others, or
2b/. make your own, or
2c/. hire a cabinet maker to make custom cabinet doors and drawer faces

Many people who say they got it at ikea did not buy their entire kitchen from ikea.

Many people who say they have Ikea, did not buy their entire kitchen there.

For those who don't know this, it needs to be said.
Ikea is never the place to go to, to get an entire kitchen.
Ikea is the place to go to, to get most of the things you need.
Ikea is the place to go to, to start your comparison shopping.
Ikea is the place to go to, to get ideas.

Hth

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clipped on: 02.10.2012 at 09:32 am    last updated on: 02.10.2012 at 09:32 am

Is there anything more to be said about shelf liners?

posted by: aliris19 on 06.21.2011 at 04:33 am in Kitchens Forum

OK ...

vinyl is nasty but relatively cheap. Off-gassing a problem? Can get it in clear; even from JoAnn's. Clear won't lose the beautiful new wood you just spent your retirement income on. Muffles sound. Smoothness might not be optimal for stopping slipping, not sure. Comparatively easy to clean.

ribbed plastic. Available at costco relatively cheaply, but not in clear. Ribs allow air to circulate underneath still-wet glassware. Ribs royal pia to clean; hide spills from sight too. Not sure how price compares to vinyl; probably more. I think the ribbed plastic is available in clear elsewhere. May prevent slipping. Muffles sound.

cushy cupboards. Beloved by many. Expensive, sparsely available (why??). Cheapest online by the case. Periodic sales at Dewalts in socal. Anyone know if upper midwest is cheaper? Spongy plastic - offgassing a problem here as well? Easy to clean; impervious. Not clear. BBB might have a rip-off version of this.

cork. Environmentally friendly. Nuisance, relatively fragile. Deadens sound. Probably expensive, most perhaps. I'm guessing pieces rip off which might be annoying and dirty too.

freezer paper. Suggested as cheap, waterproof alternative. Fine in fridge as well.

waffly stuff - almost forgot this. I haven't seen it in water-proof material though. Permits air flow for better drying.

Other alternatives: pimpernel placemats (love that!), paper towel, nothing.

Everyone seems to hate that old stand-by, adhesive contact paper. I loved putting that down.... and I loved the sweet patterns too.

What about spongy plastic that you can buy in large rolls from packing stores I think? Somehow I wound up with tons of it when packing things away a couple years ago and it doesn't seem to have left any residue on plates, etc. It's not the firmest of closed-cell packing material, but pretty dense. How's this differ from cushy cupboards? Denseness? I'm sure it's way cheaper than cushy cupboards (so who's really dense if you shell out so much $$$ for it?)

Anyone have anything to add?

Why can't they make cushy cupboards in clear plastic, with optional ribbing, at a much cheaper price, more widely available? Don't answer that....

You know this process is taking its toll when even this trivial decision becomes oppressive. Fried I am....

Question for cushy cupboard users: do you set wet glassware on it or does it make a seal that would prevent drying underneath the glass?

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clipped on: 02.07.2012 at 10:11 pm    last updated on: 02.07.2012 at 10:11 pm

RE: White or Off White Kitchen Cabinets ? wall color (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Madeline616 on 02.02.2012 at 08:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

I don't have a pic right now, but Ben Moore's Acadia White, and Ben Moore's White Dove are 2 great foolproof kitchen cabinet colors. Mine are Acadia White, and my trim (Baseboards, etc.) is White Dove.

My walls are Ben Moore's Silken Pine. A very, very soft green.

But if I were to do a soft yellow, it would be Ben Moore's Weston Flax or Windham Cream.

Both are historical colors, both really soft. Yellow is hard to get right, and I've heard/read a lot of designers say these are 2 foolproof light yellows.

Good luck!

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clipped on: 02.02.2012 at 09:27 pm    last updated on: 02.02.2012 at 09:28 pm

What type of shelving should I put in reach-in pantry?

posted by: kaysd on 02.01.2012 at 06:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am working on a new kitchen design that will let me have a wider, shallower reach-in pantry area than originally planned. I originally had a space that was 42" wide by 24" deep, so I was going to do a larder cabinet with 16-18" deep shelves and narrow basket shelves on the cabinet doors. The new space is about 6' wide by 18" deep, so I am thinking of using just shelves that are 16-18" deep and using bi-fold doors to access the area. (Our previous house had a walk-in pantry / laundry room with two 4' wide x 18" deep shelf units, and the 18" depth worked well for us.)

I am trying to decide if the pantry area should just have drywall walls with simple painted or stained wood shelves installed by GC (probably cheaper), or if I should still have our cabinet makers make it like a cabinet with wood on all sides and probably a divider down the middle so we can have 3' long adjustable shelves on each side. WWYD?

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clipped on: 02.01.2012 at 10:46 pm    last updated on: 02.01.2012 at 10:46 pm

A year in the making. My new kitchen w/pics

posted by: oldhouse1 on 09.11.2011 at 08:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our home is a simple 1840 Canadiana. We were living life quite comfortably when we drove by a home we always jokingly said we would buy if it ever went up for sale. Well, there it was, a big for sale sign in the middle of the lawn. Long story short we moved from our 4 bathroom home to one 1/3 the size with one bath that also happened to be off the kitchen. We immediately set out to design a small addition which included a kitchen. That was three years ago. With the exception of the foundation and framing, this has been a complete DIY project. After a year and a month of doing dishes in the bathroom I now have a kitchen. It doesn't have alot of bells and whistles and although we didn't necessarily want a period kitchen we did want one that suited an older home.

Details:

Ikea Tidaholm cupboards, professionally sprayed in Cloud White with alot of customization. Unfortunately, these have since been discontinued.

AEG Electrolux 36" freestanding stove. Bought for less then half price because someone bought it, used it once and returned it because they decided they wanted gas. We don't have gas and recently put in Geo Thermal heating/air conditioning. Wasn't in the budget to bring in propane. Stove was so reasonable that if we decide to do so later we can.

Liebherr 30" freestanding refrigerator. Purchased for half price because it had a dent dent in the bottom half. Bought a new door so it was good as new, until they delivered it and dented the top half. They replaced the door. Neither will be installed until house is complete (just in case).

Ikea farmhouse sink and dishwasher. I'm actually very pleased that it works as well as it does.

Perrin and Rohl Aquatine faucet in polished nickel.

Island and Jam cupboard - Special Order from Camlen Furniture in Quebec. Purchased with hand planed top in pine and may or not replace with marble. Will live with it for a while.

10" random length pine floors. All hand finished and dinged and finshed with Waterlox. This alone took us several weeks. We love the finish.

Honed Absolute Black granite. Bought the kitchen at Ikea's 20% off sale. Rather then cash back you get Ikea gift certificates. Used these and another $1300.

Faber Inca Pro hood

Light fixture- Sescolite, Burlington, Ontario

Finished kitchen, $19 thousand including all the small stuff.

I would like to thank the GW community. I found you when most decisions had already been made but early enough to make some positive changes based on the vast amount of information shared on this site. I didn't ask for much advise but I can assure you that I read everything written on the subjects that I researched on this site and then some. I do not have the incredible knowledge that so many of you do who share so willingly to those who ask but have from time to time tried to help out on the very few subjects I know a little about. I have taken much more than I have been able to give. I am grateful to have had a place that I could frequent with people who share the same desire to have a kitchen of their dreams no matter their budget. And to those who think their day will never come, keep the faith. I never thought that I would get here. After seeing so many unbelievable kitchens, big and small, elaborate and understated, new and updated thanks for looking at mine.







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clipped on: 01.30.2012 at 10:20 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2012 at 10:20 pm

Checkerboard floor for a vintage kitchen?

posted by: mama_goose on 01.22.2012 at 09:12 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I'm still waffling over what kind of flooring to put in my vintage/cottage style kitchen. Everything else is finished--I just ordered a new DW to replaced the one that broke down during the second load of dishes being done in the newly remodeled kitchen. :[

The current flooring is sheet vinyl--still in good shape after 17+ years, but discontinued by the mfr. I need to fill in where a wall was taken down, and where a base cabinet was removed, and I'd like to use the same flooring for both the kitchen, and an adjacent room. Or, maybe two adjacent rooms--the dining area, and a play room/family dining room in a new addition.

I can't add height in the kitchen, so the flooring needs to be vinyl sheet, or vinyl tile. Tile would be easier to DIY, less expensive, and add to the vintage look. If I don't use the vinyl flooring in the dining area and/or playroom, I'll use hardwood in those rooms. Marmoleum or linoleum is out of my budget.

I love the look of checkerboard, but would three rooms of such a bold pattern be too much? It seems that most rooms with checkerboard floors have very simple color schemes, and my kitchen has some color going on with painted cabinets and vintage ceramics.

This is the kitchen with current flooring:
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The dining area (in process of completing). The freestanding cabinets are being relocated:
Photobucket

The playroom/extended family dining area, from the kitchen:
Photobucket

A couple of 'busy' kitchen inspiration pics:
Photobucket

Photobucket

Colors of vinyl composite tile (VCT) I'm considering:
Photobucket

Some very primitive mock-ups that I did in 'paint' program:
Photobucket
The 'wood look' isn't in the running, because I'm replacing the hardwood floor in the LR, and the two materials would meet in a doorway.

Photobucket

After I did the above mock-ups, I realized the squares aren't in proportion to the floor plan. This one is more proportionate:
Photobucket

And, finally, just for fun :)
Photobucket

I'm leaning toward the charcoal/fortress white combo, or maybe the little green apple/fortress white, although pumpkin or cantaloupe would definitely be an attention grabber. Anyone still reading, and have an opinion? Thanks!

Here is a link that might be useful: Checkerboard floor inspiration pics

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clipped on: 01.28.2012 at 06:46 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2012 at 11:29 am

New build kitchen...ducting requiring a 'box' around top of hood?

posted by: babs711 on 01.24.2012 at 01:48 am in Kitchens Forum

In a nutshell, our joists run lengthwise perpendicularly into our range wall. I was planning a chimney hood until the contractor and cabinet guy told me that because of how the joists hit and because there's stairs behind the kitchen, the duct work will have to angle up into the joists. Therefore a slight angle will occur so I can't have a straight run from the ceiling and will need something to surround the top of the chimney about 12" down and around and that it might be slightly wider depending on the angle. The cabinet guy swears it will look good and be trimmed out with molding etc. We are having 10' ceilings and are doing 42" uppers.

I cannot picture it at all. This isn't what I pictured for our new custom house. But there is NO WAY around it unless I spend $3k-ish more than a chimney hood to get a cabinetry/mantle hood with a blower and insert. That's the only true way to cover it in a way I can picture. All chimney hoods I see go straight into the ceiling.

Has anyone run into a strange ducting situation like this or seen a hood with some sort of wrap around? Thank you.

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clipped on: 01.29.2012 at 11:29 am    last updated on: 01.29.2012 at 11:29 am

RE: Pull out shelves vs. 3 drawer set? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: dianalo on 01.28.2012 at 09:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Drawers all the way! Get as wide as you can, so you won't have as many stacks. I have 6 drawer stacks but no more than 3 in a row. It is easy finding things as they are put away in zones. There are the pots/pans drawers, the bowls/fry pans drawer, the daily dishes drawer, the cups/glasses drawer, round tupperware drawer, square/rectangle tupperware drawer, baking drawers (2), junk drawer, keys & family notebook drawer & misc dh stuff, stamps, pens/pencils/crayon and checkbook drawer, my drawer for work stuff and pocketbook, foils and oven mitt drawer, silverware one, several utensil ones (serving stuff one, cooking stuff one, measuring stuff, cutting boards one, food processor stuff one, etc....), one for lunch bags and water bottles, cookie sheets and one that has sone light bulbs and medicine which will move out once we get the shelves in our master medicine cab. Not sure what will go in there....
Once you set it up logically, it is easy to remember. Post it notes for the first few days help.
I had rollouts in the last kitchen before we moved here and thought they were great. We moved here into a kitchen with no drawer stacks and only had shallow top drawers. Our new kitchen is so much better than even the pullout setup. As you know better, you do better. Thanks to GW, I went with all drawers other than the sink base. If we did not have water filters in the sink cab, we'd have done drawers there too.

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clipped on: 01.29.2012 at 10:51 am    last updated on: 01.29.2012 at 10:51 am

RE: Recommendations for cheap temporary floor in period home? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: kgwlisa on 06.02.2008 at 01:43 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Thanks for all of the kind words. I did, indeed, use the cheapest of the cheap armstrong VCT tiles but I put it in as a permanent floor and not temporary. I did also put a TON of time into figuring out the floor and I didn't DIY and had a great installer who could actually make it happen. About half of the install cost was the cost of cutting and laying the border.

Here are some pictures. First my drawing:

A couple of the floor:

And here's a picture of the kitchen more or less all together showing some of the floor. The "theme" is a vintage coca cola theme showcasing some of my husband's nicer coca cola memorabilia and vintage ads, hence the color choice on the floor.

I highly recommend brown on brown for a "crud hiding" combination. I thought about cutting the 12x12's down to 9x9's but in the end decided no matter how good the installer that would make for a sloppier installation so I went with something slightly less authentic.

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clipped on: 01.29.2012 at 10:36 am    last updated on: 01.29.2012 at 10:36 am

Finished Kitchen - creamy farmhouse (or some such thing)

posted by: buckheadhillbilly on 01.28.2012 at 08:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks to everyone who gave me feedback on my layout many moons ago. Thanks also to all of those who have posted their kitchen photos, so that I could join all the others in admiring, taking notes, clipping photos and building the ideas that would become my kitchen. I have finally finished building my house, moved in just before the holidays, and just now have a chance to post some finished pictures.

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Now for the details (if I can remember them all!)

The cabinets are custom cabinets from a shop here in Atlanta called The Town Carpenter.
The cabinets are painted Sherwin Williams "Creamy White" with all of the black removed. This became known as "custom creamy" at the cabinet shop and they sold several more jobs of this color while my cabinets were being made.
The walls are painted Benjamin Moore's "You Are My Sunshine."
The floors are white oak from the trees we cut down while clearing the lot to build with multiple coats of tung oil - no stain.
The library ladder was made from the leftover floor boards with the same tung oil treatment.
The perimeter counters are honed Crystal Pearl Quartzite.
The island countertop is honed Virginia Mist.
The range is a 48" dual fuel Five Star (one gas oven one convection).
The hood is a Ventahood with a custom cover.
I have two dishwashers. One is a top of the line Kitchen Aid and one is a Miele.
The clean up sink is an Ikea Domsjo single bowl undermounted.
The prep sink is a Kohler stages 36" mounted wrong ways about.
The refrigerator is a SubZero and the freezer is a Thermador Freedom Column.
The warming drawer is a Miele.
The microwave is my old countertop model given a spot under the island. I'm not a fan of built in microwaves.
Behind the range is a sheet of brushed stainelss steel.
The other backsplashes are beadboard painted to match the cabinets.

I think that about covers it. I'll be happy to answer any questions and thanks again to the gardenweb community.

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clipped on: 01.28.2012 at 10:50 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2012 at 10:50 pm

RE: A New (Yellow) Direction! Would love input! (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: herbflavor on 01.28.2012 at 11:30 am in Kitchens Forum

Regarding your home's era..I gather 1950ish/maybe 1960's If you go to the finished kitchens forum and look at some kitchens: jquentzel, hedygs, beatrix_in_canada, aweinman, evergreendan. Those are styles that would look really good/a little more forward thinking coming out of the mid 20th century.

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clipped on: 01.28.2012 at 10:20 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2012 at 10:20 pm

RE: A New (Yellow) Direction! Would love input! (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: melissastar on 01.28.2012 at 11:23 am in Kitchens Forum

Fishies...my kitchen is in large part yellow, too...yellow backsplash and walls in the main cooking part, yellow cabinets and oak beadboard in the scullery/butler's pantry part. I love yellow in kitchens. My one word of advice...take your time picking the yellows. Spend the money on sample jars and buy a big pack of foam boards to test on.(paint whole boards and prop or tape them up on the wall or at cabinet height and leave 'em there long enough to see in all lights...morning, afternoon and night.)

I must have sampled 25 yellows before I found the three I ended up using (cabinets, walls in kitchen and walls in adjoining powder room). Yellows vary tremendously and what seems perfect in a small sample can turn out to be way to bright, too green, too peachy or too anything, in a large sample and in real lighting.

FWIW, this is what I ended up with...BM Rich Cream on the kitchen walls...a very pale, yellowed-cream rather than a true yellow. And BM CReam Yellow on the cabinets...a light, soft yellow that from a distance and in poor light pales out to a dark cream, but in reasonable light and up close is distinctly yellow. Here's a pic of the cabinets (unfinished...predoor and trim work)
scullery/butler's pantry area

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clipped on: 01.28.2012 at 10:12 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2012 at 10:12 pm

Color mixing opinions

posted by: nineteenoeight on 01.26.2012 at 04:35 am in Kitchens Forum

We are still tweaking our design, but one issue we're struggling with is how we can weave a stone countertop (we're considering soapstone) with our very old house colors. The house has dark stained fir everywhere (wainscoting, trim around doors) and a warm oak floor. We'd like a brighter kitchen, but don't want to have a kitchen that doesn't feel like it belongs. So we're considering:
Similar wood floor (or marmoleum with a similar color tone to the oak)
Black counters (soapstone)
Similar dark stained fir trim around windows, doors, coving up by ceiling, dark stained fir around a built in upper (that butts out into the shed rather than into the kitchen like a normal upper cabinet - so it looks like a window but when you open it there's a cupboard)
Cream cabinets
Yellow walls
We have very few uppers, in fact just the built in and then open shelving on the other side (those shelves would be cream colored)
There is no white or cream anywhere in the house. Paint colors are all earth tones, so the kitchen would be quite different.

Does the combo of black,cream,dark wood, yellow, oak color (floor) sound crazy?
The counters worry me, we've had butcher block but are tired of trying to take care of it, soapstone is more in tune with the house age than granite, so I think we're stuck with the dark grey/black on counters if we go that way...and against all cream(ie no dark wood) I think might look too modern.
Oh, and then of course there is greenish soapstone but I think that would complicate the color combo further...
Thoughts?

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clipped on: 01.26.2012 at 08:54 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2012 at 09:34 pm

RE: The lab-top that keeps on giving... (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: mama_goose on 12.09.2011 at 10:08 am in Smaller Homes Forum

Thank you, shades. The heavy plastic is a great idea. I'd like to get back to soap-making, and the plastic would work for that, too. I used to use the heavy, contractors' trash bags to cover the counters. The resin tops are supposed to be impervious to the NaOH--I (accidentally) deglossed my old laminate tops in a couple of places.

The jar lid is spray painted Rustoleum Gloss Fern. I love that color, too.

I was thrilled when my DD brought home a jar of pickles that's 80-ounces, but the same height as a gallon jar. It matches the gallon jars perfectly! Is it strange for me to be so excited about a pickle jar? :)

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clipped on: 12.10.2011 at 06:38 pm    last updated on: 12.10.2011 at 06:38 pm