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floating island planters

posted by: koijoyii on 07.26.2009 at 12:26 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

I hosted my daughter's baby shower yesterday and my pond was the main attraction. The "belle of the ball", however, were my floating planter islands. Here are some pics.





Thanks, Lisa (Goodkarma) for sharing this wonderful idea. The islands I planted are all impatiens. Do you see the one you made me? In the top pic it's the one in the middle to the left of the pic. My fish push them all around the pond but can't hurt them. You are a genius.



clipped on: 03.12.2010 at 05:46 pm    last updated on: 03.12.2010 at 05:46 pm

RE: Water being displaced and emptying pond? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: goodkarma_ on 02.15.2010 at 12:54 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

Mike il explained it perfectly. It is just the physics of water. Here is an experiment you can try at home to demonstrate the concept.

Get a bowl. Get a ziplock bag that will fit inside the bown and ideally be large enough to cover the rim. Place the bag inside the bowl and fill it about 1/3 with water. Next fill the bowl (not the bag) slowly with water. As the water level of the bowl surpasses the amount that is in the ziplock bag you will see the bag start to lift and evenutally it will lift enough and start to spill water out on to your counter. The ziplock bag is your pond and liner when it is not full. The bowl is the ground and you are observing the effects of rising ground water on your pond.

Now try this experiment with the ziplock bag filled up to the level of the bowl. When you add water to the bowl it will spill on to your counter but the ziplock bag (your liner pond) will not lift and will stay intact. So a liner pond that is filled with water to ground level will not lift and spill water unless under the most unusual of circumstances.



clipped on: 02.17.2010 at 06:00 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2010 at 06:01 pm

RE: Planting medium (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: garyfla on 09.08.2009 at 04:34 am in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

next time you need to buy some ,more media you might try a type of clay called Turface. The big difference is the stuff is fired in a kiln makes it almost insoluable .
There is also a very high fired type called Leca this will never break down in water. It could easily be used again but is expensive.
Another choice is granite sand .This also holds up but is difficult to wash.
I find I have to repot in the spring anyway even if the media hasn;t disintegrated the plants have way over grown.
Turface is actually cheaper than cat litter, as is Oil Dri. gary


clipped on: 09.08.2009 at 09:59 am    last updated on: 09.08.2009 at 09:59 am

RE: Newbie Questions (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: horton on 07.15.2009 at 05:34 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

"The Pond Doctor". By Helen Nash is a good book to have on pond up-keep.
[ISBN 0 8069 0686 3]

"The Master Book of the Water Garden"> By, Philip Swindells is another. It has lots of pond plant information included.
[ISBN 1 84065 102 4]


clipped on: 07.15.2009 at 05:35 pm    last updated on: 07.15.2009 at 05:36 pm

RE: Pond Plants-where to start (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: pondbucket on 07.12.2009 at 05:29 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

I've re-read your OP and I see that I may have been off-base with my response.
Not all irises will do well in ponds, if that's what you're asking. My terrestrial bearded irises like it mildly dry.

If you wanted a list of other terrestrial plants that have at least some record of performing well in bog or wet conditions, I have this list from a previous post (keep in mind, many go by different names, and, it certainly depends on climate --i.e.: I haven't been able to get watercress to grow but everyone else swears by it!):

Bee Balm
Cardinal Flower
Chocolate Vine
Creeping Jenny
Green & Gold
Peace Lilies
Sweet Flag
Wild Violets
Impatiens Capensis


clipped on: 07.13.2009 at 11:10 am    last updated on: 07.13.2009 at 11:10 am

RE: groundcover to cover a small wall (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: gardengal48 on 02.08.2008 at 11:21 am in Groundcovers Forum

A number of rockery plants would work. Look at Arabis (rockcress), Aubretia, creeping phlox, basket of gold (Aurinia saxatilis), snow in summer (Cerastium tomentosum). Various hardy geraniums and lambs ear (Stachys byzantina) could work also. Depending on where you are located in Missouri, I'd also look into Cotoneaster dammeri and sunrose, Helianthemum nummularia. If your wall is long enough, a careful mix could offer a riot of color and a long period of bloom.

These are all creeping type plants that will cascade over the side of a wall and especially like the full sun, well drained situation this offers. How much coverage they offer will depend on the height of the wall. In my zone most are evergreen as well.


clipped on: 03.23.2008 at 12:07 pm    last updated on: 03.23.2008 at 12:07 pm

RE: pond edging help (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: nancym1956 on 03.13.2008 at 10:19 am in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

Plants, plants, and more plants. Fountain grass planted beside the skippy will help hide it on the sides and will even drape a little in front of it. I used Purple Fountain Grass to help hide my bio filter last year, and it worked great. Water Hyacinth can be placed directly in the filter.

Creeping plants, like Sweet Allysum, lobelia (annuals), or Blue Star Creeper or creeping phlox (perennials), can be planted between the rocks at the pond's edge, and they will ramble and cascade over them, softening the harsh appearance of the rocks. Taller plants, like spikes, salvia, bachelor buttons, marigolds, Zinnias, almost anything you can think of, look terrific planted beside the pond. A combination of flowers and greens look best.

Inside the pond, you can place taro, umbrella palms, etc. Taro can also be grown in the ground beside the pond, but it has a high moisture requirement.


clipped on: 03.13.2008 at 01:15 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2008 at 01:15 pm

RE: Advice on Pond Life (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: youreit on 03.07.2008 at 08:34 am in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

Some plants that don't mind water movement are Japanese sweet flag, Bacopa (or water hyssop), blue and palm sedges, water spinach, water willow, water mint, yellow monkey flower, parrot feather, and water parsley.

Have fun with that! :)



clipped on: 03.11.2008 at 06:44 pm    last updated on: 03.11.2008 at 06:44 pm

RE: Advice on Pond Life (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: sleeplessinftwayne on 03.08.2008 at 05:56 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

Hey, Mike. I stock the pond at the Extension with feeders each year. It is a small pond and since it is pretty exposed and frequently out of human sight, by the end of the season there are usually 3 to 5 survivors no matter how many we started with. They get sent to my pond because the Ext. pond is shut down in the winter. They have a growth spurt in the spring that makes them too large for the Ext. pond so we buy feeders again.
I try to get the most colorful of the feeders but it is the nature of comets to change color and pattern so it is dubious that they will survive the summer without reverting to the solid gold/orange colors. Another thing I look at is the tail. It is not always a clue as to the final shape of the fins but I have managed to pick several that developed into long finned comets. So far they have not proved to be less hardy but I have noticed they are more predator attractive. Right now I have four or five that have been in the pond for three years.
I wind up with a large number of solid white fish and for the most part they are less hardy in the first winter than the rest of the comets but then it is equal. Sarasa comets seem to survive well but sometimes their markings shift. I had a couple I purchased because they had a solid red stripe from top of head to tail as well as the long fins. It was frustrating that one lost all but a spot on the head and one on the tail and the other had breaks in the stripe that made the red look muddy. The goldies have color changes too. I thought someone was playing a trick when I found a fish that was brown on top and gold on the bottom. But it wasn't a trick. The colors kept changing size and position all that summer but now I can't tell that one from the rest of the goldies.
I have difficulties with shubunkins. I am not sure why but only one has managed to survive more than a month or so. I will keep trying because I really like the look.
Koi are less hardy than the comets. White or platinum are less hardy although I did have a white long finned one that lasted for 5 years. It was very attractive to the herons and had several scars to prove it.
Malaysian koi are less expensive than Japanese koi and domestic koi and butterfly koi are at the bottom of the price scale although the butterflys are creeping up since sellers have caught on that Americans like them. Small koi (4in.) can be found for under $10. 6in go for a minimum of $17 then up depending on a lot of factors. Unless you are going to be breeding koi or have a lot of money to spare or a bit of ego to feed you shouldn't even look at the more expensive Koi. They can range from $100 to $10,000. I think of them as the Mona Lisa. While I would love to have it, I couldn't afford the expense of maintaining it in my home let alone putting up the selling price.
Koi coloration can be very changeable. I have one that started as mostly orange with a few black spots and now it is mostly black with only a bit of the orange showing.
Lots of choices with fishies. Sandy


clipped on: 03.11.2008 at 06:41 pm    last updated on: 03.11.2008 at 06:41 pm

Photo of Atlantic skimmer lid (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: lsst on 06.02.2007 at 07:09 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

on my Pondsweep pro900. This is an older photo. I since has softened the "squareness" of it with driftwood.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket


clipped on: 08.03.2007 at 12:38 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2007 at 12:39 pm

RE: Replacement Skimmer Mats (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: mike_il on 05.17.2007 at 07:33 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

JC Yes can buy the filter mat by the foot of length. The normal roll width is 56". You want 2" thick white polyester mat. I know that the mat that came with the skimmer was green but the white is stronger. To cut it use an electric carving knife. It will cut it like butter.


clipped on: 05.20.2007 at 09:32 pm    last updated on: 05.20.2007 at 09:32 pm

RE: Replacement Skimmer Mats (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: sandyut on 05.17.2007 at 09:20 am in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

This place has pre-cut Matala for Pondsweep at $29. Way better than the "scratch-pad" supplied with the original equipment. Good friendly service too.


clipped on: 05.20.2007 at 09:30 pm    last updated on: 05.20.2007 at 09:31 pm

RE: Need help on hiding liner... (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: annafl on 02.01.2007 at 10:36 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum


First I've got to say how awesome your pond and yard are! What a wonderful tropical paradise you've created. I love the elevation behind the pond with the tropical backdrop. I also love the asian artifacts and the wrought iron fence. So nicely done! I think you've done an amazing job with landscaping around the pond, but I agree that the liner can be distracting and I'm sure you will find a way to conceal it. I have the same problem in some areas of my pond. About half of the perimeter of my pond is bordered by St. Augustine grass. This worked out well, because the grass actually crawls into the water, so it conceals the edge of the liner. The other half of the perimeter is the problem. A few inches of the liner is visible. I've tried several plants, but only one seems to do a good job at concealing the liner. I only planted it in a couple of areas. However, now that I've seen that it does the best job, I am starting to plant it in other edges, hoping to get complete concealment by the end of the summer.

The plant is philodendron burle marx. It is a small, ground cover philodendron that likes part shade, but tolerates full sun and even pretty full shade. It is a medium fast grower. It moves toward the water and finally when it gets there it does put roots in there. It continues to expand. It is not a gorgeous thing, but I find it pretty, and it doesn't shed like most things, only an occassional leaf.

I don't know how to fix the problem with rocks. I know that is what you are hoping for and I hope that someone will shed light on how you can do it. However, if it doesn't work out, you might consider this plant. If you think this is an option for you, I could see if I could take a photo of an area of my pond where it has reached the water and concealed the edge. Other areas are just freshly planted and still scraggly. Let me know if you are interested and I can try tomorrow.



clipped on: 02.02.2007 at 05:18 pm    last updated on: 02.02.2007 at 05:18 pm

RE: will transition glue work with abs to abs? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: waterbug_guy on 08.06.2006 at 09:22 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

You can use any combination. I've heard people swear by using polyurethene glue. Even duct tape will work.

But of course "work" is a relative term. If you're building a cage for hanging shade cloth over a plant any of the above will work. If the pipe will be under pressure and "work" means the strongest and recommended method then none of the above will work. ABS isn't designed for pressure. But of course Uncle Ernie will tell you that's all BS and he used ABS for hot and cold water in his house and it worked fine.

Transition glue is meant only for vent and drains. Non-pressure. Some local codes do not even allow that.

These things aren't glues at all. They're solvents meant to weld plastic. It is a chemical process. Solvents must be matched to plastic. PVC and ABS are similar and so you can get a weak weld. Even using PVC glue rather than transition glue will get some weld. The transition glue is formulated to get a better weld than just PVC.

There is a glue (solvent) just for ABS. Oatey ABS glue comes in a black can. No primer is needed but there's a PVC/ABS cleaner you're suppose to use. Yellow can I think.

PVC glue requires a primer.

There's also a glue for grey PVC electircal conduit.

Check out Oatey for great DIY info on glueing plastic pipe. They have an excellent online video for beginners. Follow directions exactly. Never ever ask someone working in a hardware store. At best they'll say they don't know and at worst think they know. There is a reason they're working in a hardware store for near minimum wage and not as a $100/hour plumber.


clipped on: 08.06.2006 at 10:37 pm    last updated on: 08.06.2006 at 10:38 pm

RE: 2 inch tubing (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mike_il on 06.10.2006 at 05:30 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

The Home Depot's around here don't carry anything larger than 1.5". You can expect to pay somewhere between $200 to $300 for a hundred ft of flexible PVC. There is special glue for flexible PVC. Also use fittings that have 1.25" glue flange on them.


clipped on: 06.10.2006 at 08:04 pm    last updated on: 06.10.2006 at 08:04 pm