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Imidan Vs. Triazicide

posted by: Appleseed70 on 08.01.2014 at 10:33 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Can any of you who have used Imidan and maybe also triazicide give me an idea of Imidans effectiveness vs. over the counter stuff, namely Triazicide.

How well does Imidan control Plum Curculio. As other posters have stated, Triazicide does seem to "disorient" (for lack of a better word) PC, as it's snout scrapings seem to go nowhere, but the injury often distorts the fruit and is very unsightly. I have really no fruit damage whatsoever from any other insect ...just the blasted PC. It gets my plums the worst, but also hits the apple a bit, even when sprayed.

I'm actually of the belief that several more effective sprays would be better environmentally than the slew of sprays I currently use. Opinions, ideas, suggestions?

H'man mentioned the other day the use of Lorsban and I've read of it's use, but cannot find it available anywhere.

Also, are there more effective commercial grade fungicides available. I'd like to just spray sulfur and occasionally and in high pressure periods something more effective. Immunox is a good product I'm sure, but at this point I'm just not sold on it's effectiveness and for it's cost I would expect better control.


clipped on: 09.06.2014 at 11:27 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2015 at 03:00 pm

How do you deal with raccoons?

posted by: keepitlow on 08.04.2014 at 01:19 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

My 2 Asian pears and 2 plum trees were loaded with fruit. Maybe 150 or more just on one Asian pear. I've been noticing bits and pieces of fruit on the ground. Today when I looked at my Asian pear it had 3 pears left on it. The plums were all stripped off weeks ago and I got nothing.

I know the deer are not doing it. My trees are too tall for deer. (12 feet)

Either raccoons or possums are what I think are eating them. I've noticed some broken branches too. Looks like I wont get one fudging piece of fruit this season.

How do you deal with raccoons?

This post was edited by keepitlow on Mon, Aug 4, 14 at 13:20


clipped on: 01.22.2015 at 07:52 pm    last updated on: 01.22.2015 at 07:53 pm

Pest and disease spray for Apple trees

posted by: npc77 on 01.11.2015 at 10:25 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

My questions are in regard to spray compatibility. From what I've read, Captan and Imidan should cover most of the pests and diseases I'm likely to encounter up here. My understanding is these can be mixed together and applied at the same time, correct? My other question is this. One issue I've run into already is rust. My understanding is the 2 products above are not the answer. What is, and can it be mixed with the 2 products above? If not, can it be applied On the same day? I want to say I've read Immunox is great for rust, is this correct? If not, what is? I appreciate your time, I'm new, I'm also eager and want to do my best to mitigate issues before they arise.


clipped on: 01.13.2015 at 08:31 am    last updated on: 01.13.2015 at 08:31 am

Scionwood from ARS Geneva

posted by: bob_z6 on 01.31.2014 at 12:54 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I've just received scionwood from Geneva for the first time. I'm really blown away by how nice it looks, how much they sent and that they shipped it to me for free. They sent two sticks of most of the 11 varieties, each 12-15" long. Most are decently thick, with some just over 3/8". One of the types had only smaller twigs, but it looks like they included a few extras of that one. I was happy enough with the Maple Valley scionwood this spring, but this is even nicer.

It is enough scionwood that I'm considering getting a few more rootstocks. I'll also see which ones my father may want to try grafting. If anyone in the area (Harvestman?) wants to try any of them, let me know.

4 from last summer's high-brix list
Peau d'Ane- 21.6 brix, french russet.
KAZ 96 08-13 (4049 .c)- 13.8-19, yellow early-mid apple. Grown from a seed brought back from Kazakhstan.
Wellington Bloomless- 18.2, no petals on flowers should look interesting.
Blahova Ruzena- 18.2, hard, from Czech

2 recommended by Stephen Hayes
Winston (Winter King)- 10.1, An apple SH has been planting more of, due to demand. Per his YouTube videos, it is a great keeper with good flavor and a strong crunch. A strong pollinator, it sets too many apples and needs lots of thinning. The low brix listed in ARS is interesting. I can't imagine a 10 brix apple being as tasty as SH describes it. I wonder if the tree sampled wasn't thinned enough.
Adams's Pearmain- 15.1-16.3, Another of Stephen Hayes' favorites, which he likes for its disease resistance.

5 interesting ones
Scugog- 12.7-15.3, dark red flesh. Maybe I'll try breeding this with a large sweet apple...
KAZ 96 03-11 (613954)- 11.2, very early, probably in late July or early Aug. Nice aromatic flavor. Scionwood collected in Kaz.
KAZ 96 07-07 (613958)- 10.1, another very early apple. This one is supposed to have the strangest flavor of any of the Kaz apples: hazelnut-banana.
Court Pendu Rose- 16.9, I'm not sure if it is any different from the Court Pendu Plat (which I planted this past spring), but I'll give it a try. "flavor sweet, rich, perfumed; harvest season very late; late flowering"
Reinette Jamin- 16.8, very large (4" wide) bright green apple. There was no comment about the apple, other than the data set listing it as "acid".


clipped on: 01.09.2015 at 01:58 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2015 at 01:58 pm

Trunk Protection

posted by: Appleseed70 on 10.30.2014 at 01:45 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Trunk painting has come up here before and has been previously posted, but being it's that time of year I thought I'd share this link to an article I recently read.

The link:

I do paint my trunks and this year I've decided to add further protection as well. Last year I planted a few trees and didn't get around to painting them and all were gnawled on, one so badly I thought it had girdled and killed the tree. Fortunately it survived.
I read about and studied all the different types and methods of trunk protection and finally decided the 4" corrugated and perforated drain pipe would be the best. That's what I went with and am glad I did, it works so nicely and actually looks pretty good on the trees. I'll still remove them after spring because I like the looks of the painted trunks and have read other studies suggesting painted trunks provide some borer protection.
The corrugated drain pipe is available in at least 3",4", 6", and probably 8" and larger too. The 4" can be found in any big box hardware store and elsewhere.

When I paint I just use full strength interior flat white with insecticide and fungicide added. I hadn't thought about the deer/rabbit repellent additions as mentioned in the article though. I read up on the repellent mentioned in the article and it does have good reviews. It's quite expensive though. I wonder if sulfur might serve as a repellent to rodents due to the persistent disagreeable odor? I've never tried tasting any, but think it would probably taste pretty bad least to humans. Problem I guess would be that it would likely turn the paint orange in color which would look horrible.

I don't like the wire screen / hardware cloth method at all. Grass and weeds grow up through it (laced through) and becomes a hassle, requiring you to get down on your hands and knees to hand remove them. Not very aesthetically pleasing either.
What do you guys/gals use?


clipped on: 11.11.2014 at 08:26 am    last updated on: 11.11.2014 at 08:26 am

Comparison of 3 painting mixtures for trunk protection

posted by: hungryfrozencanuck on 11.08.2014 at 05:06 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

My first winter I had a couple trees girdled by voles/rabbits. Since then I have painted my trunks to good effect. I tried 3 mixtures.

Pure interior acrylic/latex water based paint, 1/2 interior acrylic/latex water based paint:1/2 water. 1/3 interior acrylic/latex water based paint:1/3 general purpose gyprock joint compound:1/3 water.

The 100% paint caused some back die back, I think because it was totally impermeable and the bark rotted.

The 50:50 paint:water brushed on very thin and lasted only 1 year before chipping and flaking.

The 1/3:1/3:1/3 mixture worked great. Good consistency to paint on in decent thickness, no real die back so I think it is a bit more permeable letting the bark breath some and the critters really don't like the taste and protected me from sun scald too. So far it seems to be standing up better durability wise as well.

Hope this helps someone.

P.S. In case you missed it I have updated my "My Backyard planting experience (so far) - Zone 4a/b Quebec" post with a 2014 year summary review for my northern fruit experience thus far.


clipped on: 11.11.2014 at 08:20 am    last updated on: 11.11.2014 at 08:20 am

RE: tree paint vs tree wraps and borers (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: Appleseed70 on 07.25.2014 at 10:00 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I paint my trees always. I have never experienced any trouble whatsoever. It has long been practiced by many orchardists and is recommended by many. I began doing it a long time ago after watching a multi part YT video by UC Davis as a measure to prevent sunscald. They recommended latex flat white interior only. They never mentioned borer protection to my recollection, but I always wondered about it. I for the last few years have mixed in carbaryl, triazicide, and chlorothalonil with the thought that the encapsulated insecticide may offer some longer term protection from borers and other insects. It mixes just fine, in fact you can't even tell it's in there. I've never had a borer incident since I began doing this, but I also spray regularly in fact, probably excessively


clipped on: 11.11.2014 at 08:18 am    last updated on: 11.11.2014 at 08:18 am

Imadacloprid drench

posted by: ltilton on 09.29.2014 at 05:31 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I want to apply this next year to control the flathead apple borers infested my trees, but I've seen conflicting advice. The product is sold here to control emerald ash borer, but it's not listed for use on fruit trees. otoh, I've seen a drench online listed for fruit trees.

Is the difference solely in the concentration of the pesticide? Can I use the emerald ash borer product on fruit trees at some concentration? Or is there an actual difference in the product?

Don't want to go producing Wicked Stepmother apples.


clipped on: 09.30.2014 at 02:35 pm    last updated on: 11.11.2014 at 08:09 am

RE: Captan 50WP (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Appleseed70 on 11.01.2014 at 09:41 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Yeah...I went and double checked to make sure they were listing it as WP and indeed they are. In one of the links harvestman, I think it shows the WDG also and it seems to me it was the same as WP.
I also checked two different Captan labels and neither made any mention of storage life whatsoever. There are a lot of sites with this info, but possibly they are copying from one another.
(3 year shelf life - WP)

(3 year shelf life - WP)

(18 month shelf life - WP)

The above site is an import chemical supply dealer offering 99% purity Captan. Presumably this would then be combined with the micronized clay dust to 50% , 80% or whatever concentration was being made. They claim a shelf life of just 18 months. Maybe the mixing with clay prolongs shelf life.

This post was edited by Appleseed70 on Mon, Nov 3, 14 at 1:28


clipped on: 11.11.2014 at 08:03 am    last updated on: 11.11.2014 at 08:03 am

RE: meaning of suffixes wp, wdg, tc, sc etc. (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: olpea on 10.21.2014 at 08:46 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

WP stands for Wettable Powder.

WDG or WG stands for Water Dispersible Granule

SC stands for Suspension Concentrate

SG stands for Soluble Granule

EC stands for Emulsifiable Concentrate

SL stands for Soluble Liquid

DF stands for Dry Flowable

The numbers you reference (WP50 or WP70) probably have to do with the amount of active ingredient (50% or 70%) in the Wettable Powder.

This post was edited by olpea on Tue, Oct 21, 14 at 21:03


clipped on: 10.23.2014 at 08:57 am    last updated on: 10.23.2014 at 08:57 am

Bringing Them Indoors- How to De-Bug

posted by: mes111 on 10.21.2014 at 06:42 pm in Citrus Forum

I am ready to start bringing my pots indoors for the winter after they have all been outside since the spring.

I know that there are all sorts of hitch-hikers in the pots etc.

How do I "de-bug" the pots before bringing them indoors.

I was told to submerge them in water for an hour or two but does that work? and is there anything to put in the water to kill off any buggies?



clipped on: 10.23.2014 at 08:31 am    last updated on: 10.23.2014 at 08:31 am

Why no permethrin after petal fall?

posted by: kjskjs on 04.01.2009 at 10:54 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I am considering bagging my apples this year, but want to get a little insecticide on first. My dilemma is that Permethrin is not listed for use after petal fall (just when I think I will need it). My Bonide "Fruit Tree Spray" which contains captan, malathion, carbaryl also prsents problems because the carbaryl is said to thin the fruit and I hear it should not be used for 6 weeks after petal fall.

So what recommendations do you have for spray in the time period from petal fall until bagging time. I'm new to apples but I understand PC could cause a problem in my area (Frederick Co, Northern VA). I don't have access to Imidan. I will basically only be getting chemicals available in local farm supply stores, nurseries or big box stores.etc.

I'm confused why Permethrin can't be used after petal fall on apples. It can be used up until several days before harvest on many listed vegetables. My understanding was that it was a relatively benign spray compared to some others.



clipped on: 10.21.2014 at 07:23 pm    last updated on: 10.21.2014 at 07:23 pm

Sooty Blotch:

posted by: loneranger_grow on 10.12.2014 at 10:17 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Now that I know what it is,,is Immunox good to spray for this? I spray it after pedal fall and maybe a couple more times, but I guess in my humid-rainy southern Iowa I should spray right thru the Summer.


clipped on: 10.17.2014 at 08:49 am    last updated on: 10.17.2014 at 08:49 am

Columbia Star Blackberry

posted by: Bradybb on 01.20.2014 at 09:08 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I saw this new,still patent pending thornless,trailing Blackberry on and is the only one that I could see listed as having outstanding flavor.Several are rated as excellent.I'm not sure if outstanding is better than excellent.It is probably subjective.
During a small search,the only place I could find selling the plant is roots are sold out until 2015,but there are TC plugs and canes available.
I'd like to try them,but the 25 minimum are too many for me. Brady

Here is a photo of the plant,scroll down when getting there

Here is a link that might be useful: Blackberries for Oregon


clipped on: 10.09.2014 at 07:58 am    last updated on: 10.09.2014 at 07:58 am

RE: Where do you get unique varieties of fruit / orchard plants? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Drew51 on 09.17.2014 at 05:59 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum


clipped on: 09.17.2014 at 07:09 am    last updated on: 09.17.2014 at 07:09 am

How many fungicide sprays for fruit trees?

posted by: bart1 on 04.29.2014 at 10:37 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I was under the impression that you have to spray fruit trees every 2 weeks or so from petal fall until ??? to protect them. But then I saw this blurb from harvestman in another thread:

For apples, Immunox (myclobutinal )is probably your best option and you may need to go to the internet for it. As long as you get it on by petal fall and once more 2 weeks later it should be more than adequate.

Is that all it takes? Two sprays?!?!!? Wow!

Will that work for me in the Mid-Atlantic?
Will it work for peaches, pears, plums and apples?

Also is there a certain time (or size) when fruit is no longer susceptible? (to rots/mildew/fungus, not bugs!)


clipped on: 09.06.2014 at 11:28 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2014 at 12:18 pm

How do I prune tip bearing apples?

posted by: myk1 on 09.08.2014 at 01:58 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Specifically Newtown Pippin.
This is a bought tree from Grandpas, not the suspected tree I grafted from my niece (which I suspect less now that I've had fruit from the bought tree).
It's only the second bearing year but I can't figure out how to get much off it with only one apple per 50% branch tips per year.

Obviously I want to create as many tips as possible. How do I do that without cutting off next year's fruit?
I'm thinking cut the tips back as I pick the apples.


clipped on: 09.09.2014 at 08:30 am    last updated on: 09.09.2014 at 08:30 am

Geo Pride pluot, another sugar high

posted by: fruitnut on 07.12.2011 at 10:19 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Your local brix junkie back once again pushing the high potency juice. This time it's packaged as a beautiful dark pluot named Geo Pride. I've got it on four trees. So far two trees are putting out fruit at about 22 brix and about 2 inches. One is at 25-30 brix and smaller fruit. My observations indicate that water is once again the difference.

This fruit is really good at 22 brix but I wish you could taste it at 27-30, heavenly. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.


clipped on: 09.07.2014 at 04:45 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2014 at 04:46 pm

Flavor Grenade and Queen Rosa, OMG!

posted by: harvestman on 09.03.2014 at 07:00 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Scott may consider them both bland, but for the second year they are amazing here in southeastern NY. Flavor Grenade is a completely unique fruit with an extremely crisp texture and intense sugar I've never experienced together. Not subacid sweet- the kind of balanced sugar-acid flavor I love.

Ate that 10 minutes ago after really being impressed by a drop off tree ripe Queen Rosa. I underthinned, but the fruit is still packed with high flavor, nice sugar and acid. They drop off the tree while still very firm, though, but are completely delicious at that point. Who needs Elephant Heart- this plum is not a Santa Rosa type- it is an improved Elephant Heart red fleshed plum- at least based on how it performs here.

This all is a repeat of last year's performances so I'm not basing it on a single year. I'm going to start growing Flavor Grenade in my nursery because Scott never has trouble with it setting fruit and this is the second year since coming of age that it has born well- and stone fruit wasn't all that consistent in my orchard this year.


clipped on: 09.07.2014 at 04:26 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2014 at 04:26 pm

Imidan Source

posted by: glenn_russell on 06.26.2009 at 09:17 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Hi All-
Another GW member found a source for Imidan and was nice enough to share it with me. Thanks Joe! See link below.

I have already ordered mine, and it has arrived in perfect condition. Everything about the package looks new. I looked for a "born on" date on the package, but couldn't find one. The seller has a 100% feedback rating over 11,000 transactions, and if you look at their store, you can see that their business is garden chemicals. They say that the Imidan is "Fresh and New", and I can't see any indications to the contrary.

Even though I have obtained it, I may not use it any time soon. This is more of an insurance policy� More of a� "Going to buy it now while I can� because normally I can�t find it� may not use it right away� but keeping it on hand in case I need it". I have a good place to store it where it should always be between 50-80 degrees.

In my yard, somehow I've managed to avoid PC and other nasty insects so far. I'm wondering if being religious with the Bonide Fruit Tree spray spraying after pedal fall though the time I bag has protected me? If so, it's the ONLY thing that crap is good for. And because I've never let the buggers get a foothold, they've never really set up camp?

I've recently agreed to help a friend with an orchard (about 30 trees, 9 years old) that has gotten out of control. Despite his best efforts of spraying of the Bonide FTS 15 times a season, it does nothing to control CAR, and he didn't know what to do, and gave up 2 years ago. I now have a solid plan for him of Kocide3000& oil spray and then a couple Immunox sprays. This Imidan may come in handy if the insects turn out to be bad in his orchard.

I also got some 2.5% Permethrin for myself the other day at the local hardware store in the form of Bonide Borer Miner Killer as recommended by theaceofspades. I suspect this is what I�ll be using in the future instead of the Fruit Tree Spray.

In my 6 months of looking for Imidan, I had actually searched eBay a couple of times, but it was never there before. As I understand it, (from Harvestman�s posts) Imidan isn�t nationally restricted, but there not making it in home-grower quantities. From one of Denninmi�s posts: "Imidan apparently is still on the market, but the problem is getting it shipped to you. I inquired at an online company I've purchased from before, and the owner e-mailed me back and said they are no longer selling it because neither the USPS nor UPS want to handle it because it's caustic and requires special hazardous materials shipping and handling. I didn�t ask the seller about any of that.

I think it was Joe who asked the seller how much Imidan they had and this was their response: We have several bags of Imidan, and my distributor has ordered in more so I will be able to ship as many as are ordered. Thanks so much, and also thanks for your patience! Best wishes, Hope

Oh, yeah, even through a sealed bag� that stuff stinks!


Here is a link that might be useful: Imidan on eBay


clipped on: 09.06.2014 at 11:57 pm    last updated on: 09.06.2014 at 11:57 pm

Intensive preventative sprays

posted by: Drew51 on 07.30.2014 at 10:39 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Often experienced users here tout infrequent sprays, but I have found doing preventative sprays on all my fruits has worked rather well. I have never seen a fungus on my blueberries or brambles. Once you get it, it's a matter of control. I never got it thanks to a very intensive spray schedule. All you have to do is check your local university to see what fungal problems are in your area. Waiting till you get them is a huge mistake IMHO. As at best you have to control, it's there now, and never going away. In my case, it could not establish anywhere, so spore counts are extremely low.
I'm not advocating unnecessary sprays, they are needed according to MSU in my case. Some of the advice to wait and see what problems may or may not happen is bad advice. It's easy enough to find out what is in your area without waiting for infections.


clipped on: 09.06.2014 at 11:31 pm    last updated on: 09.06.2014 at 11:31 pm

Imidan odor

posted by: Appleseed70 on 08.18.2014 at 05:32 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I jusrt received a 5 lb. order of Imidan 70 WP. I had heard that it smelled pretty bad and was expecting something like Malathion odor. Good grief...this stuff is in the dissolvable plastic packets, inside the foil/mylar outer packaging and that is inside a sealed Ziploc bag which is in a cardboard box. Nothing has been opened and yet I can smell it through all that sealed packaging.
Question long after spraying does this odor persist? Obviously it's going to be really bad when mixed and sprayed. Does the odor die down to something tolerable after a day or so?


clipped on: 09.06.2014 at 11:19 pm    last updated on: 09.06.2014 at 11:19 pm


posted by: ClarkinKS on 08.13.2014 at 04:42 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

We had daily rains and heat this year that spread Fireblight like wildfire. We spent much of the year trimming branches off to combat the Fireblight caused by the unusual weather. White vinegar mixed with water 50/50 to make a spray seemed to prevent the Fireblight from coming back. Did anyone else have similar problems this year? We wound up with our biggest ever crop of fruit this year despite the Fireblight.


clipped on: 09.06.2014 at 11:14 pm    last updated on: 09.06.2014 at 11:14 pm

This is a Blackberry lovers dream

posted by: 2010ChampsBCS on 08.28.2014 at 07:20 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

This is a Blackberry lovers dream. Ripe seven days before Natchez and again in September-October. I just finished watching the video by John R Clark. Those were what his comments indicated about the Prime Ark Freedom. If these blackberries pan out they can fulfill one of my desires in that I would like to be able to pick fresh berries from June through late October. I have no experience with the Prime Ark varieties. Are my expectations too high? Placed my order today and they are expected to arrive next week. Excited as a mature berry grower can be. All comments are welcome.


clipped on: 09.01.2014 at 04:29 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2014 at 04:30 pm

Acetamiprid for PC

posted by: ltilton on 05.02.2014 at 08:39 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

On another thread, several knowledgable posters said they didn't consider acetamiprid effective for curculio control. I just got the current issue of the IL Extension newsletter, which lists Assail as one of the recommended insecticides to control PC. I believe the reference was primarily directed at apple growers.

I'm wondering if this might be because pyrethroids aren't permitted on apples after petal fall, so a less effective spray is recommended.

My first concern is for my stone fruits, and with as few trees as I have, I prefer not to be mixing up more sprayer-loads than necessary.


Good other discussion permithrin
clipped on: 05.03.2014 at 10:41 am    last updated on: 05.03.2014 at 10:42 am

Calculating mixing rate of ammonium sulfate for blueberries

posted by: fruitnut on 07.05.2013 at 08:27 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Mrclint was kind enough to post the link below concerning blueberry fertilization with ammonium sulfate, AS, 21-0-0.

If I'm reading correctly it says that at rates higher than 1.0 g/liter AS becomes a salt problem when growing blueberries. So I'm cutting that in half to provide a safety margin. That equals rounded off ~2 grams per gallon. AS weights 4.6 g per teaspoon. The rate I've quoted before was about one teaspoon per 2.5 gallon jug. That still seems about right and about 0.5 g/liter.

More accurate calculations says 2.5 gal equals 9.45 liter. So 1.0 teaspoon AS (4.6g) diluted in 2.5 gal equals 0.49 g/liter.

I know that's not real easy to follow but that's my calculation.

So I think 1 teaspoon AS per 2.5 gal water is a safe rate on blueberries in pots if there is a decent leaching fraction. It's been working for me and this literature says it's safe if properly used.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ammonium sulfate on blueberries


clipped on: 07.08.2013 at 11:51 am    last updated on: 04.23.2014 at 09:59 pm

Record Keeping Journal

posted by: mes111 on 09.24.2013 at 02:12 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum


Can anyone share a design or style of a journal . With so many variables and sub-layers I am just drawing a blank as to how to design the record keeping.



record keeping database
clipped on: 03.01.2014 at 07:44 am    last updated on: 03.01.2014 at 07:44 am

dry pesticide rates for hand held sprayers

posted by: michael357 on 01.23.2014 at 02:56 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

the link is from the U of KY and has a good deal of useful info. for folks using small amounts of spray materials but can't seem to figure out how to convert the label rates to rates usable in say, tsp/gal..

Hope this helps somebody.

Here is a link that might be useful: U of KY link


clipped on: 01.26.2014 at 01:48 pm    last updated on: 01.26.2014 at 01:48 pm

Apple scab Problem

posted by: Stamper057 on 01.05.2014 at 11:05 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I purchased a small orchard last winter without any orchard experince(This is just a hobby orchard) We had a problem with apple scab last year and would like to know the best way to take care of this problem.


clipped on: 01.06.2014 at 10:50 am    last updated on: 01.06.2014 at 10:50 am

brown rot

posted by: yopper on 12.29.2013 at 04:06 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

What is the best spray for brown rot on cherries?TIA YOPPER


clipped on: 12.31.2013 at 10:08 am    last updated on: 12.31.2013 at 10:08 am

Apple Tree Pollination and Rootstocks

posted by: Enterprise on 12.06.2013 at 12:09 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Hi all,
I am looking to add a few apple trees to my backyard garden. I am located in zone 5b/6a in western MA. I am thinking of planting three trees: Liberty, William�s Pride, and Enterprise on M26 rootstocks. I like the idea of getting some disease resistance although I understand that spraying still will be required, especially prior to bagging. My question is: will these trees provide sufficient cross pollination? From what I read their blooms are somewhat spread out but in theory overlap enough. Anyone know if that�s true? I was considering planting Freedom as well, but from what I�ve read on this forum, the quality isn�t as good as Liberty/WP and it doesn�t match Enterprise�s resistance. Also, any recommendations for rootstocks? A local orchard owner recommended M26, but it sounds like some of the Geneva rootstocks have value. Thanks in advance.


clipped on: 12.11.2013 at 08:58 am    last updated on: 12.11.2013 at 08:58 am

peach tree curl

posted by: woody64 on 11.18.2013 at 03:08 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I read somewhere that Iam supposed to spay my peach tree this time of the year to kill off the tree curl from this year. Can someone suggest what Iam supposed to spray with please? I read somewhere about copper spray or some thing like that but if you had to buy at the local store what would you ask for?


clipped on: 11.24.2013 at 02:42 am    last updated on: 11.24.2013 at 02:44 am

Best Fungicide

posted by: MrsG47 on 11.05.2013 at 02:47 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Hi all, it is garden clean up time and I am finding 'yellow rust' on my raspberries. It started very slowly in Oct. What is the best fungicide to use against it? Thanks, Mrs. G


clipped on: 11.08.2013 at 08:14 am    last updated on: 11.08.2013 at 08:14 am

Borers Likelihood?

posted by: ramble on 10.16.2013 at 06:05 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

What is the likelihood that plums/cherries would get the borer? I'm in NJ.

And what available chemical to prevent them if necessary?


borer paint trunk
clipped on: 10.24.2013 at 10:34 am    last updated on: 10.24.2013 at 10:34 am

Summer Budding

posted by: Itheweatherman on 08.18.2013 at 01:52 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Is it possible to bud apricots in summer? Is it hard?

Would you guys give me some tips, please.

I will bud a flavor delight aprium (patent expired) onto a Marianna 2346 rootstock.


clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 12:28 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 12:29 pm

Great video on BRIX & pests

posted by: yukkuri_kame on 09.08.2013 at 01:47 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Found it very informative.

Do any of y'all use a refractometer?

Here is a link that might be useful:


clipped on: 09.09.2013 at 09:32 am    last updated on: 09.09.2013 at 09:32 am

RE: Calculating mixing rate of ammonium sulfate for blueberries (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: mrclint on 07.09.2013 at 02:16 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Ammonium sulfate is not organic. Here's a video that shows a couple of small batches of ammonium sulfate in liquid form being mixed up. I'm not sure why he's cooking the powder at the end. Looks like a highlight from a "Breaking Bad" episode doesn't it? Non-organic growers take the crystalline form of either mix method, dilute with water and fertilize plants (including food plants) with it. Subway uses ammonium sulfate in their bread dough.

This post was edited by mrclint on Tue, Jul 9, 13 at 3:18


clipped on: 07.31.2013 at 07:47 am    last updated on: 07.31.2013 at 07:47 am

ammonium nitrate for blueberries

posted by: Noogy on 06.29.2013 at 09:14 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I realize some components in fertilizers, such as muriates, contribute to the formation of salts in the soil that kills bb's. I've also read things about nitrates, but am not sure or positive about their use w/blues. I don't need the sulfur component, so is ammonium nitrate safe for blues?


clipped on: 07.08.2013 at 11:54 am    last updated on: 07.08.2013 at 11:54 am

Permethrin update

posted by: franktank232 on 07.03.2013 at 02:23 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I just thought I'd update and say i had EXCELLENT results with plain Permethrin this in I have yet to find ONE plum with a PC hit...they were thick...THICK on my apples (which i didn't spray early enough and when i did, i spot treated a few apples which stayed clean)... I was spraying every Sat nite on the plums ..i think i had 4 or 5 sprays total (its been several weeks now)...if i used a sticker i bet i could extend that. We had a ton of rain during May and June (15 inches)... Last year i had no plums ..none...because PC hit them so hard. This year i've had to thin there are so many out there hanging. I also have no PC hits on my container trees which all were spot treated (i only sprayed the fruit)..which include donut peaches, pluots, white peaches and a few other things...

Now if i can keep the rot away, i'll be good.


clipped on: 07.08.2013 at 11:53 am    last updated on: 07.08.2013 at 11:54 am

picked peaches early, washed but still go brown rot?

posted by: garedneck on 07.07.2013 at 10:30 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Well, i guess the honeymoon is over as the first several years it was easy to grow all types of fruits without much disease or pest pressure. This year brown rot has gotten into everything despite regular immunox sprays and a few monterey fungus fighter sprays and copper sprays in the winter.

So with one of the peach trees i removed about 30 peaches about 1 week before they would normally tree ripen while they looked good, washed them off, dried them and set them in the house. A few days later they get brown rot starting from the outside of the peach working its way towards the pit before the peach was fully ripe! It only takes 24 hrs to go from good looking peach to totally rotted peach!

What could or should i have done to prevent it?

I know to try to keep orchard clean and neat , regular sprays, etc. Should i just get used to this every so many years when the weather is particularly wet or hot?

Of course i did get a couple peaches this year that were fabulous making it worth the effort!




clipped on: 07.08.2013 at 10:27 am    last updated on: 07.08.2013 at 10:28 am

When to stop pinching new growth on Blueberry Plants

posted by: blueboy1977 on 09.02.2012 at 06:25 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Ive been trying to slow down my plants all summer by pinching off the tops of new growth about every 8 inches or so. There have been some plants that I havent keep up with to this point though and would like to cut back some length on the branches because they are getting floppy. Last year I cut them back in Sept and they had enough time to harden off by winter time. So in zone 9(South Houston) what would be the latest that you would pinch new growth. Im thinking late Sept/early Oct. Any thoughts???


clipped on: 06.03.2013 at 10:07 am    last updated on: 06.03.2013 at 10:07 am


posted by: Randy31513 on 03.23.2012 at 01:58 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Ortho� Flower, Fruit & Vegetable uses Acetamiprid. It is rated for apple peaches and plums and other stuff.

Any thought how this compares with Triazicide?


clipped on: 05.29.2013 at 06:25 pm    last updated on: 05.29.2013 at 06:25 pm

Spray recommendation for blooming stone fruit trees

posted by: andrew321 on 04.04.2013 at 02:03 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

My plum and apricot trees are in bloom. Peaches and European plums will soon follow. The rain has been on and off so I am kind of confused regarding what to spray and how often. I used copper sulfate and dormant oil about two weeks ago on all my stone fruits. I also used Daconil on the blooming apricots about four days ago. The plums were in the early stages of bloom and got sprayed with Daconil and Captan.

I wonder if I should also use copper sulfate and how often I should spray if there is rain while the trees are blooming. I always add a spreader sticker in the mix. Thank you.


clipped on: 05.28.2013 at 10:45 am    last updated on: 05.28.2013 at 10:45 am

Giving up on Triazicide

posted by: ltilton on 05.22.2013 at 03:27 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

OK. I sprayed at petal fall, I sprayed at shuck split, 10 days later. Not 5 days leter, I find curculio scars on every apricot I see. On every plum.

To hell with that.

I've got Sevin, I've got Permethrin. Not sure how to get my hands on anything else stronger. Which way to go?


clipped on: 05.28.2013 at 10:38 am    last updated on: 05.28.2013 at 10:38 am

Captan & Pears

posted by: backyardking on 04.22.2010 at 07:21 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

I have an old (new to me) orchard of apples, pears & cherry. A friend of mine told me to spray captan on them twice a week until June. That's what he does. The label doesn't mention pears--or I was hoping to be apple to shoot tomatoes in mid summer. Does anyone know if Captan should be ok? I think I have a bartlet type & an asian type pears. It seems from reasearch that it shouldn't be a big deal. Yes?
Thanks in advance



clipped on: 05.20.2013 at 12:12 am    last updated on: 05.20.2013 at 12:13 am

10-10-10 fertilizer and blueberries?

posted by: languard on 05.14.2013 at 11:37 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

My wife is really worried about damaging our blueberries, so I thought I'd ask here for thoughts. I plan on using a 10-10-10 fertilizer on my blueberries, does anyone have any good/bad experiences with this? What about other fertilizers?


clipped on: 05.17.2013 at 02:43 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2013 at 02:43 pm

Hmmm peach tree leaves starting to bubble and look like this...

posted by: armyofda12mnkeys on 05.13.2013 at 12:51 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Hey all,
My peach tree is getting these weird bubbles forming on the leaves...
Can see the leaves that have it on pic below... Can see it beginning to form on part of the left leaf too.
Is this nitrogen deficiency or a disease?


clipped on: 05.13.2013 at 09:29 am    last updated on: 05.13.2013 at 09:30 am

Good spray program for apples

posted by: johnthecook on 02.29.2012 at 08:48 am in Fruit & Orchards Forum

hello. I have tried to figure out a good spray program for my apples. I have looked for past posts but never seem to get the full spray program for the year.I have dormant oil,triazicide, and immunox. Could someone just list in what order how they use these sprays during the spray season.I live on Cape Cod and have 17 apple trees two to three years old. I also have tried bagging my apples but can't see doing this when my trees really start producing.


clipped on: 05.10.2013 at 12:59 pm    last updated on: 05.10.2013 at 12:59 pm

Inducing a branch

posted by: glenn_russell on 04.06.2010 at 02:37 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Hi All-
I suspect that this will be an easy case where you just point me to a nice link...

I dormant-topped all 5 apple whips that I planted last year to 42' in preparation for my open vase trees. With such a warm spring, I'm already seeing some leaf buds push which I suspect will become new shoots/laterals for my vase. But, my question is... if I don't get enough new shoots to form a vase (I'm hoping for 4 on each tree), how do I go about inducing one? I seem to remember a procedure where you score the bark down to the cambium just below a leaf bud, or something like that? If so, what would be the right time of year for me to do this? (Something showing me how long/deep the cut would be would be nice too.)

I guess I also want to ask how close together should I aim to get these new laterals? Ideally, they'd all be at the same level, but that's probably not possible/practical/and perhaps not best for the tree? Maybe it's just aesthetics anyway?

Thanks in advance,

P.S. Attended my first grafting class last night. Grafted a Goldrush on P2 (like M9) rootstock. Time will tell if my clumsy hands were good enough!


clipped on: 05.10.2013 at 12:58 pm    last updated on: 05.10.2013 at 12:58 pm

Tis the season of fruit

posted by: blueboy1977 on 04.22.2013 at 03:03 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

It's that time of the season here in Houston and all kinds of fruit is coming across the table. We have been picking blueberries now for at least 3 weeks and wild dewberries, strawberries and loquats have been coming on strong. After the first week of my blues coming in I started to have Mocking Birds tearing them up. They really piss me off cause they don't even eat the berries. They just knock holes in them, tear off green berries and make a big ole mess under the plants. I still have some Rabbiteyes pushing flowers and I like to wait to put up my bird netting untill they are done but the last 2 seasons I've had to put it up a tad bit early. They are mostly done flowering but still a few trying to push. Attached are a few pics from the last two days at our house. Hope you enjoy them, I know I did;)

Took the boys picking dewberries yesterday after work. Then made dewberry cobbler for desert!
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My wife went to a friends house this morning and picked some loquats. I'm going to plant a few seeds in the front yard and get a couple plants going. Anything special I need to do for the seeds or just throw them in the ground?
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My boys picked these this morning.
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A few picks of the improvised frame and bird netting.
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4 year old Emerald sagging from weight of blueberries.
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My early varieties (Springhigh and Snowchaser) are just about done. Here are a few more varieties that are starting to ripen.

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This is suppost to be Windsor. It's from FHN and seems to the wrong variety. I have a Windsor JF&E and the leaf and berries look completely different plus they haven't started to ripen at all. Does this look like your unknown Fruitnut???
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Scintilla just starting to ripen
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That's all I got for now. As more varieties come in to season I will make another post.


clipped on: 05.10.2013 at 12:40 pm    last updated on: 05.10.2013 at 12:55 pm