Clippings by melanie1121

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: Curb Appeal Paint Help (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: funcolors on 07.12.2009 at 06:51 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I like the idea of a color like Drydock for its depth and colorfulness and not-so-traditional slant for the house. But Drydock could easily turn a pinkish taupe depending on base, colorant, the hand that mixes it. Juxtaposed to a yellowish-cream trim the color harmony just isn't there whether the mix comes out looking exactly like the chip or whether it ends up with that surprising pink undertone that I see Drydock having the potential to turn towards.

The thing you have to look at with your house is the direction of the material on the body. It runs vertical. My guess is odds are pretty good that those are asbestos shingles. Since your DH knows paint, I'm sure he knows what to do about old layers of lead paint and asbestos on an old house if indeed that's what you have to work with.

The direction of the body material matters as fas as which colors it can wear best. There are certain color characteristics that are best suited to horizontal and vertical. Horizontal is more traditional and can wear lighter, paler, pastel colors very well. Like light begies, creams, buttercream yellows, wasabi greens. Vertical is by default more contemporary and literally is a different twist on business as usual siding. Vertical carries more drama or unique curb appeal personality because of its direction and, therefore, it can wear more dramatic, contemporary, colorful color. Like red, gold, olive green. I think that's evident in the virtuals above i.e. the putty is an awful pairing with the house/siding. All the other colors that are more colorful and a bit bolder just look better, IMO, because of the style of the house but also because of the vertical orientation of the shingled body.

The Bronze Gold virtual color could translate to an in-real-life paint color along the lines of BenM Jamesboro Gold, BenM Livingston Gold, SW Relic Gold, SW Roycroft Brass. That's the kind of color I had in mind when I was painting. Pinks, magentas, citrusy greens could be nice accent colors.

Olive Green is a good option too. Purples could be your punch color in plants, porch accessories, etc. Some good olive exterior colors are: SW Messenger Bag, SW Avacado, SW Mossy Gold, BenM Weathersfield Moss.

SW's Creamy or Dover White could work as trim colors with the olives and the golds as well as fit with your original thoughts of a warmer, creamier trim color.


clipped on: 07.13.2009 at 10:38 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2009 at 10:38 pm

RE: OT... how to make homemade bread (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: trailrunner on 10.20.2008 at 01:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

HEY NOW> fair blaming us !! I have a tutorial on my food picture site. I will link it here . It is not for this bread but it does have good pics of what yeast should look like when it is proofed etc.It is for granola bread. Here is the recipe for Challah. I always make it when I make Pasta i fagioli and minestrone . The guys love to tear off humks to eat ! LOL. : Challah 3 loaves:

Makes 3 braids and I double it --

Dissolve 5 tsp or 2 packets of dry yeast in 1 1/2 c warm water. Add 1/4 c sugar and stir to dissolve. Wait til yeast is foamy and add 1/4 c butter ( or pareve if Kosher) softened and 3 whole eggs. Whisk together.

In KA mixer or Cuisinart food processor mix 6 1/2 c unbleached or bread flour and 2 tsp salt. Start KA or processor and slowly pour in liquids. Process till smooth satiny dough. about 1 1/2 min. Or you can stir this up by hand in a bowl ( see tutorial) May need up to another 1/2 c flour or a few Tbsp. water....depends on the weather and the flour. Let rise til double in greased bowl covered ...about 1 hr. Degas and shape into 3 braids or may make burger buns or dinner rolls or even regular 9"x5" pan loaves. Let rise til less than double. Bake 350 degrees 30 min. til hollow when tapped on bottom. May glaze with 1 eggyolk diluted w/ 2 tsp 1/2 and 1/2 and decorate w/ sesame or poppy seeds.

picture finished Challah:


Here is a link that might be useful: Bread Tutorial Slideshow


clipped on: 10.22.2008 at 08:21 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2008 at 08:21 pm

RE: Granite color for cherry cabinets (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: lsandler on 08.27.2008 at 08:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

My perimeter cabs are Decora, Brandywine with Expresso finish. My granite is called Gold and Silver.

Here's a pic:



Here's a close-up of a piece of my granite:



clipped on: 09.07.2008 at 06:45 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2008 at 06:45 pm

RE: new pictures..of second backsplash!!!! (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: lmalm53 on 07.11.2008 at 09:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

Lisa the backsplash is GREAT! I hope you don't mind, but your kitchen is SO GORGEOUS I had to lighten up the exposure on your pics a little to do it justice. I can see your cute little pooch now in the family room! The tile, granite and cabinets are just so wonderful together... you should be very proud of the hard work and decisions you have made!







clipped on: 09.03.2008 at 08:08 am    last updated on: 09.03.2008 at 08:09 am

I found more (Follow-Up #50)

posted by: oceanna on 01.26.2008 at 06:16 am in Home Decorating Forum

1. Someone pasted anaglypta on the front of these risers






















clipped on: 08.30.2008 at 06:22 pm    last updated on: 08.30.2008 at 06:22 pm

More pretties (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: oceanna on 11.21.2007 at 10:22 am in Home Decorating Forum



clipped on: 08.30.2008 at 06:21 pm    last updated on: 08.30.2008 at 06:21 pm

Staircase Eye Candy Blowout!

posted by: oceanna on 11.20.2007 at 11:09 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Just for fun, here are some pics I've saved of really eyecatching staircases you might enjoy. See anything you like?


clipped on: 08.30.2008 at 06:20 pm    last updated on: 08.30.2008 at 06:20 pm

Skypathway (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: oceanna on 11.22.2007 at 11:06 am in Home Decorating Forum

I just did some research on getting carpet off stairs and retreading them with hardwood. I'll put a link here and you can read how it's done if you're curious. The link has other live links in it that tell more.

I love DIY, not just because it saves money, but because it gives us independence, and immense control over both timing and quality. It's also often fun and a source of both new skills and pride in accomplishment.

I remember seeing on HGTV a *floor* where the woman had done the torn brown craft paper idea with several coats of polyurethane. The couple loved it and it looked like a rich brown stone -- at least on the TV. We would have to do a trial of it to know if we liked it, but if it looked good it would be a cheap, easy and unique solution we could easily do ourselves. Gotta' love that. Right now it's just a thought to kick around. I'd definitely do a sample board first. It might also be interesting to see if it could be done with different papers, maybe mimicking marble or granite? A good art store has lots of different papers. Anything that can be put on one surface can probably be put on another, including paint, decoupage, mosaics, tile, etc.

Carpet is gorgeous when it's new, but it wears quickly on stairs and it's a pain to keep looking clean and good. Hardwood stairs are a piece of cake to maintain in comparison.

I loved your idea of painting the treads black. What if you did that and then installed a small tile on a sheet backing on the risers? That might be strikingly pretty. I love mixed media. You can let your head go on mixed media... like can you imagine glossy rosewood stairs with a narrow brass ribbon inlay reminiscent of some of the stunning high end art deco work? Ooolala.

Did you happen to see Joan Joan Steffan yesterday? Barbara Scalati did stained glass on a kitchen cabinet door. Stained glass would be breathtaking on the risers -- but I suppose someone would kick it and break it.

I've seen staircauses faux painted to look exactly like marble, but one would have to be very skilled to pull that off.

Another thought would be small tiles on a sheet backing for both the stair treads and risers. Or maybe stones on a sheet backing? Hmmm... I wonder if that would be slippery.

For stairs going down into a dark basement in an old house you might be able to get away with a lot, especially if it's just a temporary solution for a couple of years -- like just staining the existing wood, knots and all. But for stairs instantly visible from the entry in many homes it can be a very critical decision. Test pieces are definitely in order, I'm thinking... as well as a few phone calls for estimates from carpenters. The flooring at the top of the stairs also has to tie in with or coordinate with the stairs.

One thing to keep in mind... if we paint and then polyurethane we'll need 2-3 protective coats, and poly takes 24-48 hours to cure. That's time when nobody can use the stairs. Also, if we change the stairs to hardwood, do we need to change the railing too?

Well anyway, I'm brainstorming it and I love to think out of the box. I'm so glad you're brainstorming it too. Maybe we can help one another come up with something good. The thing is when we think outside the box we need to be very careful, as we can come out with something either stunning or tacky. There is often a fine line between the two.

Here is a link that might be useful: How to replace carpet with hardwood on stairs


clipped on: 08.30.2008 at 06:14 pm    last updated on: 08.30.2008 at 06:14 pm

RE: World's ugliest entry (Follow-Up #88)

posted by: cliff_and_joann on 02.06.2008 at 11:21 am in Home Decorating Forum

Oceana, Yes I mean the darker camel color on the door as well as the wall.
To get an even tone on stained wood,
after you strip and sand it you need to apply Boiled Linseed oil (apply with a rag) you need to wait 3 days (even if it feels dry)lightly sand it before applying stain, then wait 2 days, lightly sand and apply your varnish or Waterlox.
Wood like oak and ash -- the darker parts will stain dark
the boiled linseed oil prevent that from happening.
As I said in the previous post, I think your wood is ash.
If you decide to do it, you can email me and I'll go into detail on how to strip the wood and get the desired finish you want and which sand paper and steel wool to use.
Yes, you can just start with the steps going up to use the runner.
Try and get wool, I have a wool runner on my steps for about 6 years and it looks as good as the day we put it down. I am a big fan of wool carpet and runners, as they seem to not get dirty or stained and hold up to the dogs etc...

A friend did her stairs after she saw mine and bought an inexpensive oriental (not wool) and after several months it
looked like a bath mat in need of a wash, my point being buy the best you can afford for your stairs cause it takes a beating, and you don't want to have to constantly replace it.
Here is an example of poplar, which is a very difficult wood to stain (ask any woodworker -- it's used mostly for painting projects) with the boiled linseed oil we were able to achieve the color we needed to match the furniture.
Your ash wood would be easier to stain than this poplar wood was. We made this several years ago, at the time there wasn't many places to buy premium wood like maple or walnut and I knew I didn't want oak with the characteristic cathedrals so I opted for poplar.


clipped on: 08.30.2008 at 06:01 pm    last updated on: 08.30.2008 at 06:01 pm

RE: World's ugliest entry (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: daisyadair on 02.01.2008 at 10:18 am in Home Decorating Forum

Ok, so you open the front door and face the stairs going up? Do you remember that post in the gallery showing all of those cool staircases? I think the poster was someone named Oceanna? Why don't you take the carpet off of the stairs, paint them, and do something decorative on the riser?

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

It's not that bad of a job. I'm doing mine and am going to post a blog when I get done with them.


clipped on: 08.30.2008 at 10:28 am    last updated on: 08.30.2008 at 10:28 am

RE: Lyptus (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: heitzca on 08.01.2006 at 11:40 pm in Flooring Forum

We just completed the installation of about 1200 sf of prefinished Lyptus (natural finish) flooring, replacing 20 yo carpeting and vinyl in our hallways, family room, kitchen, dining room, study, and powder room. It looks FANTASTIC. It cost a bit less than $9/sf installed, and the installer did a great job with careful board placement for maximum visual effect. Boards were both glued and nailed for maximum stability. The floors look so nice that we're in no hurry to move the furniture back in.


clipped on: 08.25.2008 at 08:23 am    last updated on: 08.25.2008 at 08:23 am

RE: Need help identifying granite color (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: sue_ct on 07.25.2008 at 01:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

The world is a dangerous place. The only way to really protect your children from it is to keep them in a box. There is no real evidence which granites can be a problem, how prevelent they are or where they came from. Do the radon tests for your house to make you feel better and take care of it if there is a problem. Would you be less concerned if you had increased radon levels from the soil they play on and in or the cement in the foundation? Trying to figure out what granite you have and where it came from is fruitless regarding this issue because no reliable information exists that any others have any more or less incidence of potentially problematic stones. And even if it was determined the type stone in your house NEVER has anything but zero levels, that would not mean there is no radon in your house.
By the way, yours looks to me like New venetian Gold, Giallo Ornamentale or St Cecilia, which are all similar with different amts of golds, browns and black. The only specific granites I have seen mentioned so far regarding the radon thing are Shivakashi and Creme Bordeaux, which are pinks and burgandies.
Seriously, I understand you wanting to decrease your childs risks, but with gangs, drugs, violence, serious illness and abuse, countertops seem like they should be pretty low on the list.
Like I said, my advise is test your house for radon and try to chill out.
What ever you do, don't replace them with expensive soap stone. According to one quote from Al, once the granite scare is "rolling" he plans to address asbestos and silica in soap stone. I would hate to have you put a large amt of money into something only to freak out again. I guess it doesn't bother him that people might be dying from soap stone countertops as long as they are not as big a competetor to Solid Surface. So he won't go there unitl he has panicked every one into tearing out their granite. Then Soap Stone will move up on the list.
If you want to be really safe according to Al, throw out your countertops and just buy Solid Surface from him.



clipped on: 08.24.2008 at 10:24 am    last updated on: 08.24.2008 at 10:24 am

RE: dark cabs, light counters. show me your paint or splashes. (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: minac on 07.28.2008 at 03:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

gibby3000 - yours was one of my inspiration kitchens for dark cabinets and light counters.

Here is a pic of the dark cabinets and light counters with tha backsplash. The paint color is a tan or sand color - very neutral. The backsplash added recently.



clipped on: 07.28.2008 at 10:41 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2008 at 10:41 pm

RE: I'm not in love. Still cant decide on counters for my dark ca (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: jayav on 04.02.2008 at 11:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sorry...I just saw that you asked for an installed here goes...



clipped on: 07.28.2008 at 10:21 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2008 at 10:22 pm

RE: Please vote - which granite do you like more with my cabinets (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: sandsonik on 07.05.2008 at 11:54 pm in Kitchens Forum


Although, just to confuse the issue further, I think gold and silver would look great too!


clipped on: 07.28.2008 at 10:03 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2008 at 10:03 pm

Finally 100% finished Cherry cabinet kitchen

posted by: minac on 07.16.2008 at 09:32 am in Kitchens Forum

I posted my kitchen over 2 years ago with the 95% complete. I am sort of like that senior that had one more class to take and most of my gardenweb kitchen remodel class graduated two years ago and I am just finishing up. So thanks to everyone that helped me with my undercabinet light for the passthru, people that gave me backsplash help and pointing me to Oceanside glass tiles (expensive and wouldn't have been able to do it 2 years ago but I love the way it turned out) and helped me thru the tile vendor dilemna. I am now 100% done with my kitchen and now can focus on gaining those cooking skills to match the kitchen.

Here is the before and you are basically seeing all the counterspace that existed


Here are some of the after pictures

Sink area before backsplash

Sink area after backsplash

Desk are before backsplash


Desk area after backsplash

Stove and passthru area before backsplash



clipped on: 07.27.2008 at 10:43 pm    last updated on: 07.27.2008 at 10:43 pm

Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

posted by: buehl on 04.14.2008 at 02:56 am in Kitchens Forum

First off, I want to give a big thank-you to StoneGirl, Kevin, Joshua, Mimi, and others (past and current) on this forum who have given us many words of wisdom concerning stone countertops.

I've tried to compile everything I saved over the past 8 months that I've been on this Forum. Most of it was taken from a write-up by StoneGirl (Natural stone primer/granite 101); other threads and sources were used as well.

So...if the experts could review the information I've compiled below and send me comments (here or via email), I will talk to StarPooh about getting this on the FAQ.

Stone Information, Advice, and Checklists:

In an industry that has no set standards, there are many unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. There are also a number of people with odd agendas trying to spread ill rumors about natural stone and propagate some very confusing and contradictory information. This is my small attempt at shedding a little light on the subject.

Slab Selection:

On the selection of the actual stone slabs - When you go to the slab yard to choose slabs for your kitchen, there are a few things you need to take note of:

  • Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued, or brushed, should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches, or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man-made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab when looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab.

    Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process.

  • Mesh backing: Some slabs have a mesh backing. This was done at the plant where the slabs were finished. This backing adds support to brittle materials or materials with excessive veining or fissures. A number of exotic stones will have this. This does not necessarily make the material one of inferior quality, though. Quite often, these slabs will require special care in fabrication and transport, so be prepared for the fabricator to charge accordingly. If you are unsure about the slabs, ask your fabricator what his opinion of the material is.
  • Cracks and fissures: Yes - some slabs might have them. One could have quite the discussion on whether that line on the slab could be one or the other, so I'll try to explain it a little.

    • Fissures are naturally occurring features in stone. They will appear as little lines in the surface of the slabs (very visible in a material like Verde Peacock) and could even be of a different color than the majority of the stone (think of those crazed white lines sometimes appearing in Antique Brown). Sometimes they could be fused like in Antique Brown and other times they could be open, as is the case in the Verde Peacock example. They could often also go right through the body of the slab like in Crema Marfil, for instance. If you look at the light reflection across a fissure, you will never see a break - i.e., there will be no change in the plane on either side of a fissure.
    • A crack on the other hand is a problem... If you look at the slab at an oblique angle in the light, you will note the reflection of the shine on the surface of the stone. A crack will appear as a definite line through the reflection and the reflection will have a different appearance on either side of the line - there will be a break in the plane. Reject slabs like this. One could still work around fissures. Cracks are a whole other can of worms.
    • Resined slabs: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. You should not be able to see just by looking at the surface of a slab whether it was resined or not. If you look at the rough sides of the slab, though, you will see some drippy shiny marks, almost like varnish drips. This should be the only indication that the slab is resined. There should never be a film or layer on the face of the stone. With extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer.
    • Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed do not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but it is still resined to eliminate a flaking issue.

Tests (especially for Absolute Black) (using a sample of YOUR slab):

  • To verify you have true AB and not dyed: Clean with denatured alcohol and rub marble polishing powder on the face. (Get denatured alcohol at Home Depot in the paint department)
  • Lemon Juice or better yet some Muratic Acid: will quickly show if the stone has alot of calcium content and will end up getting etched. This is usually chinese stone, not indian.
  • Acetone: The Dying usually is done on the same chinese stone. like the others said, acetone on a rag will reveal any dye that has been applied
  • Chips: Using something very hard & metalhit the granite sharply & hard on edges to see if it chips, breaks, or cracks


  • Before the templaters get there...
    • Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.
    • Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.
    • Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in.
    • Check how close they should come to a stove and make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter.
    • Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.
    • Make sure have your garbage disposal air switch on hand or know the diameter

  • If you are not putting in a backsplash, tell them
  • Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.
  • Seam Placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

    Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality, and their placementand still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!

  • Factors determining seam placement:
    • The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)
    • Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available
    • Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will influence seam placement here alone.
    • Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some do not. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.
    • Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -
    • Install-ability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again, 1,001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

    You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

    With modern glues and seaming methods, a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam is done well, there is - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

    Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.

  • Generally, it is not a good idea to seam over a DW because there's no support for the granite, and anything heavy placed at or near the seam would stress the stone, possibly breaking it.
  • Rodding is another issue where a tremendous amount of mis-information and scary stories exist: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece
  • Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e., eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.
    Edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world. Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.


  • Seams:
    One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum [StoneGirl]

    • A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:
      • It should be flat. According to the Marble Institute of America (MIA) a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.
      • It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)
      • The color on either side of the seam should match as closely as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.
      • Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases, the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.
      • The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge, you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.
      • The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)
      • The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as closely as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try to make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it

  • Checklist:
    • Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.
      • Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.
      • Make sure that the seams are not obvious.
      • Make sure the seams are butted tight
      • Make sure that there are no scratches, pits, or cracks

    • If sealing is necessary (not all granites need to be sealed):
      • Make sure that the granite has been sealed
      • If more than one application of sealer was applied, ask how long they waited between applications
      • Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.

    • Make sure the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
    • Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.
    • Check for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges
    • Check for chips. These can be filled.
    • Make sure the top drawers open & close
    • Make sure that you can open & close your dishwasher
    • Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter
    • Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances
    • Check the edge all around, a good edge should have the following characteristics:
      • Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull, or waxy.
      • The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.
      • The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.
      • A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.
      • A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly, and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanical fabrication (i.e., CNC machines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.

    • Run your hands around the entire laminated edge of yor counters to make sure they are smooth
    • Check surrounding walls & cabinets for damage

Miscellaneous Information:

  • More than all the above and below, though, is to be present for both the templating as well as having the templates placed on your slabs at the fabricator's
    If you canot be there, then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam
  • Find a fabricator who is a member of the SFA
  • When they polish your stone for you don't let them wax it. It will look terrible in 2 months when the wax wears off.
  • Don't use the Magic Eraser on granite--especially AB
  • Any slab with more fill (resin) than stone is certainly a no-no!!
  • When you do check for scratches, have overhead lighting shining down so scratches are easier to see
  • Don't let them do cutouts in place (granite dust becomes a major issue)
  • Granite dust can be a problem...some have heard of SS appliances & hoods damaged by the dust, others have heard of drawer glides being ruined by the dust
  • If you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process.
  • Suggested Prep for Installation:
    • Remove any drawers and pullouts beneath any sections that will be cut or drilled onsite, e.g., sink cutouts and/or faucet, soap dispenser, air gap, instant hot etc. holes, cooktop cutouts.
    • Then just cover the glides themselves with a few layers of blue painter's tape (or some combo of plastic wrap and tape)
    • If you make sure to cover the top of the glides and attach some of the tape to the cab wall as well (to form sort of a seal)and cover the rest of the glides completely with tape, you should be fine.
    • Usually the fabricators will have someone holding a vacuum hose right at the spot where they are drilling or cutting, so very little granite dust should be landing on the glides. What little dust escapes the vacuum will be blocked by the layer(s) of tape.
    • When done w/installation, remove the tape and use a DustBuster (or similar) on all the cabinets and glides

  • Countertop Support:
    • If your granite is 2 cm thick, then there can be no more then 6" of of unsupported span with a 5/8" subtop
    • If your granite is 3 cm thick, then there can be no more then 10" of unsupported span - no subtop required
    • If you need support, the to determine your corbel dimensions:
    • Thickness of Stone - Dimension of Unsupported Span = Corbel Dimensino
    • i.e., an 18" total overhang in 2 cm would require a 12" corbe; the same overhang in 3 cm would require an 8" corbel


clipped on: 05.18.2008 at 12:17 pm    last updated on: 07.27.2008 at 09:28 pm

RE: How dirty does a stainless refrigerator get? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: gglks on 07.22.2008 at 07:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

it depends on what kind of person you are.....i have a stainless fridge and have to wipe it down almost daily because i can't stand to see any smudges. i really like weinman's stainless steel cleaner...the spray can, not the moist towelettes.


clipped on: 07.27.2008 at 08:40 pm    last updated on: 07.27.2008 at 08:40 pm

RE: cherry cabinets and gold granite (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mavs_fan on 07.15.2007 at 09:57 pm in Building a Home Forum

Totallyblessed - Thanks for the compliments and for sending me the email about this post :-)

Wisconsingal - I did choose a "gold" granite called Magma Gold. Our cabinets will be Beech wood with a cherry stain and our doors will be African Mahogany with a cherry stain. Here is a pic with all three together:

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

And here is a close-up of one of the slabs:

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

I hope that this helps.

If you are interested in more information, I can be found on our home building website linked below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Our Progress So Far


clipped on: 07.26.2008 at 06:06 pm    last updated on: 07.26.2008 at 06:06 pm

RE: Kitchen at work...lots of pics... (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: mindstorm on 07.25.2008 at 09:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

trailrunner, Yum those preserve recipes sound excellent. Don't know why but it's good to know that the blueberry-peach tart is an epicurious recipe. I haunt that site like a ghost and this is oddly reassuring to know that there is good reason to do so ;-)

Ok for the poached fig in merlot-cassis ...

- 1 cup merlot,
- 0.5 cups cassis
- 1 Tbsp sugar
- 10 fresh black figs (destem)
- 1/4tsp salt
- 1/2 Tbsp ice wine vinegar (if you have it - I've never used this since I don't purchase specialty items so special that I'd never know how to use again and that you use half a spoon at a time)
- 1/2 cup mascarpone cheese
- bunch of young mint leaves

Combine merlot, cassis and sugar, boil until reduced to half.
Add figs and continue to cook until figs have broken down. Help this along with a spoon. You want the figs to be quite thoroughly soaked in the decoction and dissolving into it. (Approx 20 minutes at a good hearty boil).
Remove pan from heat. Stir in salt and the ice-wine vinegar if using.

Cool to room temperature (you can serve this hot if you wish, but I've never done so, so no guarantees on taste). Spoon the figs into bowls, with a spoonful of mascarpone, garnished with the mint leave.

You can also sprinkle a bit of sea salt or drizzle a bit of a fruity olive oil to temper the sweetness if you so desire.


clipped on: 07.26.2008 at 09:17 am    last updated on: 07.26.2008 at 09:17 am

RE: Kitchen at work...lots of pics... (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: trailrunner on 07.25.2008 at 05:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

You guys are always so great ! The Kitchen Forum is so fun even after the Kitchen is DONE !!

Rhome: I wish I had more folks like you do to cook for. You are so lucky. I long for the days that my little ones ran in from school and wanted to know " what did you make good today Momma ?! "... makes me cry a little. Now I do 4 pints here and 4 pints there and DS1 and his restaurant and employees benefit :)

Oh mindstorm you had me on that one....please I want that fig supply runneth over. The peach-blueberry cake/tart is an epicurious recipe...linked below. I did the cornstarch substitute and also baked it at 325 for 90 minutes, with the peach bread.

Fig-Lavender Preserves

4# figs - remove stems and 1/4 each
1 heaping Tb dried lavender flowers - crush well
1c sugar
1c honey ( local is best)
1c rich red wine ( I used a Chianti)
2 lemons - zest and jiuce

Simmer till thickened and process hot bath 10 min. = 4 pints

Spicy Fig Chutney

3# figs (same as above)
1# light brown sugar
2 yellow onions chopped
1/2 c grated peeled fresh gingerroot
3 t yellow mustard seeds
zest from 1 lemon
1 stick cinnamon
3 1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp allspice ground
1/2 tsp cloves ground

Simmer all but figs till reduced and thickened. Add figs and simmer hard till thick, about 30 min. Preserve as above. 10 min water bath.

Fig and Lemon Preserves

1 gallon figs ( prepare as above)
3# sugar

let figs set in sugar for several hours to draw juices. Add 2 thinly sliced deseeded lemons and cook till thick , water bath 10 min. about 4 pints.

Midnight: I have Turkey Browns and Celestes to cook. See above for recipes. Here is the Peach Bread. It is not too fat or sweet but very tasty.

Peach Bread

3c flour
1T baking powder
1T cinnamon
1t salt
3 eggs
1 1/2 c sugar
1/2 c oil
1 T vanilla
2c peaches chopped...add 1c chopped pecans at end.

Mix together...don't worry it is wetter than it seems as you mix it. Greased 8x4 pans 60 min at 325 convection or til knife blade comes clean.

I have a Strawberry and Lavender preserve that I want to do too !!

1qt strawberries
1c honey
7 lavender sprigs
2 c sugar
2T lemon juice

Boil sugar and honey and lavender to boil, remove from heat and steep for 45 min. remove lavender. Add berries and lemon, boil hard 1 min add pectin, boil another minute and remove from heat. Place in jars and process 10 min boiling water bath.

Here is a link that might be useful: Peach Blueberry Cake


clipped on: 07.26.2008 at 09:16 am    last updated on: 07.26.2008 at 09:16 am

RE: Soap Dispenser recommendations please (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: babka on 07.16.2008 at 12:41 am in Kitchens Forum

I LOVE our soap dispenser. We use it to wash hands, not dish detergent. Ours is a Rohl, which the local fixture place said is a good one, as they don't get returns on it!!!! Had it for 3 years. No problems.



clipped on: 07.19.2008 at 11:21 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2008 at 11:22 pm

RE: Soap Dispenser recommendations please (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cal_dreamer on 07.16.2008 at 12:32 am in Kitchens Forum

I love having a soap dispenser! I have had no problems with mine (Blanco Alta), just wish I had bought one with a shorter nozzle since I tend to press on the nozzle instead of the top.

No leaks, no mess, no fuss in the past year, and no soap bottle sitting on the counter :).


clipped on: 07.19.2008 at 11:20 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2008 at 11:20 pm

RE: Soap Dispenser recommendations please (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: leah810 on 07.09.2008 at 08:20 am in Kitchens Forum

I have a Grohe chrome soap dispenser to match my Grohe faucet and I love it. Have had a few months, has never clogged and I have only had to refill it once (I do not have a Never-MT) and I wash my hands A LOT. hth


clipped on: 07.19.2008 at 11:19 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2008 at 11:20 pm

RE: Thrilled with your granite choice for Cherry Pecan Cabs? Phot (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: cubby14 on 07.08.2008 at 05:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have Medallion Cherry Pecan cabinets which in this picture look a lot more orange than they really are with Russian Sable granite.

Russian Sable granite with ogee edge


clipped on: 07.19.2008 at 10:56 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2008 at 10:56 pm

RE: Has anyone done Dore Royal subway tile? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: artteacher_nj on 07.19.2008 at 07:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have tumbled Dore Royal marble 4x4 tiles straight up with small ceramic flower accents. The harlequin mosaic over my range has polished Dore Royal and Durango Limestone.


clipped on: 07.19.2008 at 10:53 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2008 at 10:53 pm

RE: Question about kitchen faucets (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: susanilz5 on 06.09.2008 at 11:15 am in Kitchens Forum

I have horrible water pressure in my home. when I replaced the old faucet with a new Mico/Justyna
Justyna Maestro satin nickel;

I was amzed at how much BETTER the water pressure was with the new faucet. I don't know why!


clipped on: 06.13.2008 at 12:19 am    last updated on: 06.13.2008 at 12:19 am

RE: How do you store a LARGE collection of spices? (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: many_hats on 02.11.2008 at 11:02 am in Kitchens Forum

I also use a drawer similar to some of the photos above but I have small metal containers with magetic bottoms. I slid a very thin piece of metal (from HD ~$11.00) under my Life Liner and the spices don't move (you can see the grey colour of it under the spices). The taller containers are from Lee Valley; they do not come with magnetic bottoms but I took some magnetic tape and cut pieces to fit the bottoms then glued them on. They all have glass lids so I can see quantities at a glance. The smaller ones have lids that twist to holes for shaking and a wide port for pouring.

The drawer is 24" wide, 21" deep; the face front is 6 1/4" high and the inside sides are 4 1/4" high. I have just under 40 spices stored so it's not a huge collection but I also have room for a 7 1/2" wide knife block and utensil storage as well so it could hold a lot more spices if I removed those.

spice drawer.


clipped on: 06.12.2008 at 07:06 pm    last updated on: 06.12.2008 at 07:06 pm

RE: How do you store a LARGE collection of spices? (Follow-Up #71)

posted by: imrainey on 03.23.2008 at 08:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

BTW, when freshness and using spices up in a reasonable amount of time is an issue there are many spice blends you can do yourself so you don't have to store every possible combination. Make as much or as little as you want. Most of these recipes fill a 4oz. spice jar.

Mixing them up is a wonderful sensory experience.

Here are a few that I do myself:

Apple Pie Blend
cup (or 24 parts) cinnamon
1 tablespoon (or 6 parts) allspice
2 teaspoon (or 4 parts) nutmeg
teaspoon (or 1 part) cardamom, optional

Pumpkin Pie Blend
cup (or 24 parts) cinnamon
2 tablespoon (or 12 parts) ginger
2 teaspoon (or 4 parts) ground cloves
1 teaspoon (or 2 parts) nutmeg
teaspoon (or 1 part) cardamom, optional

Curry Blend
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) cayenne
cup (or 8 parts) granulated garlic
cup (or 12 parts) paprika
cup (or 4 parts) turmeric
1 cup (or 24 parts) curry powder

Mexican Rub for Pork
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
1 teaspoon cumin
teaspoon (or 8 parts) epizote
teaspoon (or 8 parts) kosher salt
teaspoon (or 4 parts) freshly ground black pepper
teaspoon (or 4 parts) ground cloves
teaspoon (or 2 parts) oregano
1 pinch (or 1 part) cinnamon

Emeril's "Essence"
2 tablespoon paprika
2 tablespoon (or 2 parts) salt
2 tablespoon (or 2 parts) garlic powder
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) black pepper
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) onion powder
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) cayenne
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) dried oregano
1 tablespoon (or 1 part) dried thyme

Combine all ingredients thoroughly and store in an airtight jar or container.


clipped on: 06.12.2008 at 07:02 pm    last updated on: 06.12.2008 at 07:02 pm

RE: Travertine vs Porcelain - Help Me Choose? - Pics (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: lmalm53 on 06.09.2008 at 07:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

Wow! Thanks for the comments. It seems like we are pretty evenly divided between the Travertine and Porcelain. I know how hard it is to get an accurate color to show in a photo, plus everyone's monitors won't show colors the same way. Each of the Travertine tiles are slightly different in color depth and pattern but they really don't seem all that busy to me when seen in person with the rest of the elements in place.

I am amazed at how different the stone and granite both look when in natural light vs indoor incandescent vs flash lighting. I still think I like the feel and texture of the Travertine better than the Porcelain, plus the color just seems to be a better match. Here are pics of the Travertine taken outdoors in natural light and the Porcelain and Travertine indoors together under kitchen lights without using the camera flash.

Travertine in Outdoor Lighting

Porcelain and Travertine in Kitchen Lighting Together (note the Porcelain has a little more sheen than the Travertine)

Does that help any? I like them both but still like the natural stone a little better than the porcelain. More Comments?

Thanks for the nice comments about my granite! I do like it alot and hope once I see it on all the countertops and island it won't seem too busy. Any comments on the difference in maintenance or wearability of Travertine vs Porcelain?

My installer says the Travertine will be easier to cut and work with on the install, but I'm wondering if there are other differences besides price I should be aware of?


clipped on: 06.09.2008 at 11:30 pm    last updated on: 06.09.2008 at 11:36 pm

RE: Travertine vs Porcelain - Help Me Choose? - Pics (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: breezy_2 on 06.09.2008 at 08:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK, what's the granite? Could it be Ivory Coast?

Anyway, we used Ivory Coast granite matched with Florida Tile (I am pretty sure) Mexican Noce' travertine subway tiles. It gives the backsplash a very Tuscan/rustic look, very soft in tones and compliments the Ivory Coast extremely well. No doubt the porcelain is easier upkeep but the stone is sooo natural looking and takes nothing from the granite.

I vote for the travertine!


clipped on: 06.09.2008 at 11:36 pm    last updated on: 06.09.2008 at 11:36 pm

RE: What vacuum for wood floors w/ pet hair & sand? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: pirula on 06.02.2008 at 12:12 pm in Appliances Forum

I'm not on the beach, but I have wood floors, a cat, a golden retriever and a seven year old (oh and I live in a very wooded area, trees are messy).

I have the SEBO Felix upright sweeper. It's really terrific at picking up not just the big stuff, but the fine grit. We're always barefoot in the house and you feel the grit immediately. The Sebo gets it all up and has a HEPA filter to boot. It does a stupendous job on Anakin's (the golden) "tumbleweeds."

The best thing I've found for the really fine stuff is the swiffer. I often do one or the other, and then once a week I follow the vaccum with the swiffer. That thing is amazing, it STILL picks up stuff. It's great.



clipped on: 06.08.2008 at 10:02 am    last updated on: 06.08.2008 at 10:02 am

RE: What vacuum for wood floors w/ pet hair & sand? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: chefkev on 06.02.2008 at 11:17 pm in Appliances Forum

We have a Miele. It was expensive, but we bought it because I have allergy challenges. It's over 12 years old and still looks/works like new. It does work great on wood floors.


clipped on: 06.08.2008 at 10:01 am    last updated on: 06.08.2008 at 10:01 am

RE: What vacuum for wood floors w/ pet hair & sand? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: morton5 on 06.01.2008 at 09:49 pm in Appliances Forum

I really prefer a wide rectangular mop, used with perhaps a spritz of dust attractant like Mr. Misty, for wood floors. I find it goes much faster than the vacuum. I push the dust over to my entry mat, then vacuum it up there.


clipped on: 06.08.2008 at 10:00 am    last updated on: 06.08.2008 at 10:00 am

RE: What vacuum for wood floors w/ pet hair & sand? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cheri127 on 05.31.2008 at 08:23 pm in Appliances Forum

I have a stick vacuum by Raffaello that I use at the beach house. No animals but teenage girls with long hair and plenty of sand. It takes a bag, has a long cord and works very well.

I didn't buy it online, but at a local sew and vac shop.

Here is a link that might be useful: raffaello


clipped on: 06.08.2008 at 09:59 am    last updated on: 06.08.2008 at 09:59 am

single or double sink question - would like opinions

posted by: ma-bookreader on 06.05.2008 at 09:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

The kithen renovation has begun. So many decisions - my head hurts already!

One decision that I have really been mulling over is whether to have a double sink or a large single sink. For so long I have had a regular double sink (each side is the same size) and I hate it! I always thought that when we did the renovation, I'd just buy one large bowl sink. Well, now I see that there are new double sinks on the market that divide the space quite differently. (3/4 and 1/4)

I am specifically looking at these 2 sinks:
S105DR Ticor Undermount Sink
S112 Ticor Undermount Sink

Here is my dilemma.

I like to use an insinkerator. With a double sink, I would have one side for the insinkerator (the smaller side) and the other side would be used differently (maybe I'd have a pot soaking in it). If I have one large sink, it seems that the food scraps might get all over the sink (they'd eventually end up in the insinkerator) and it would be hard to have a 'clean' spot and a 'working' spot. I'm having a hard time explaining myself here.

The sink grates seem like a great idea. I've never had them (in truth, I never knew such a thing existed!). I can envision them working well if I get the S105DR (double sink). When I want to say peel potatoes and put the scraps down the insinkerator, I'd just pull up the grate in the small sink and put the scraps in the sink.
How would this work with a single basin sink? It seems to me that the grate will be in the way. Is the grate as beneficial when you have one large sink? Does it get in the way. It seems that it is so large that it would be a pain to have to take out of the sink everytime you need to clean the sink. Am I making a mountain out of a molehill?

I'd appreiciate hearing other opinions on this.
Thanks in advance!


clipped on: 06.07.2008 at 10:02 am    last updated on: 06.07.2008 at 10:02 am

RE: Finished Small Kitchen (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: lily1342 on 04.10.2008 at 05:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you so much for the comments. You all are so generous and encouraging! Now, for the details (so glad you asked!):

Cabinets: Thomasville, Raleigh door style in Amaretto Creme
Granite: Santa Cecelia Gold
Travertine Tile: Marazzi, Durango split-face 1x2, (but it's really more like 1 1/4" x 2 1/2")
Marme Ivory chair rail
Dorset Classic Liner
Sink, faucet, soap dispenser: Kohler (got 40% off on sink
and faucet cuz brother has 2nd job at a plumbing supply
store and I got to use his empl. disc, yeah!)
Refrigerator: JennAire JBL2088HES
Range: JennAire JGS8860BDP
MW: Bosch
Cabinet hardware: Knob Hill and Belwith from HD & Lowe's
B'nook Chandelier: Lowe's
Light fixtures, sink and ceiling: Rejuvenation
Paint: SW Snowbound on trim; SW Lemon Chiffon on walls

cpang, you're right, the rug is from Ballard's!

Now really, igloo, somebody back in 1980 may have put a lot of thought into selection of that light fixture and may have anguished over it every bit as much as we do here over our stuff... hmmm, I don't sound very convincing.

adunate, is that your own blog??? It's fabulous! I could spend all day reading it.

raehelen, gotta hand it to you, doing a complete gut, the whole works. The c-top is only 11" more added on to the sink/DW wall but still it made a huge difference in how it feels when you're working there - seems like I've got so much more room now. Plus, I got enough room for trash, which is way better than the old wastebasket blocking the back door! And the banquette IS cozy - I've actually taken a nap there and mmmm it's comfy; being 6'9" along the back, you can really stretch out. Yes, that is chair rail tile at the bottom; it's 12" long. Here's a closer pic of it (sorry about the quality, I have a cheap camera):
It is all travertine, except the liners on the ends and bordering the range bs are some kind of precast stuff, but it looks real.

slc2053, here's the floorplan:
I know what you mean about having to continue living with a small kitchen - 2 of our walls are load-bearing exterior walls of solid stone. Wasn't about to try to change that!
Drywall removed

eastgate, standing in front of the range wall, from left-to-right is: 36" fridge space, 24" dwawer base, 30" range space, and then 12" half of corner lazy susan, or 36" more to end of wall. On the sink/DW wall, the countertop does stick out some in front of the back door but it's not as awkward as the photo makes it look. Between the end of the cabinet run and the door, there's 14" of wall space. I'm putting a couple of shelves in that little corner. The shelf needs to be trimmed to fit (can I never get a cut right the first time - noooo!) and painted:
shelf to be added...
In a small kitchen, gotta use every nook and cranny. At last I'll have someplace handy but outta-the-way to put my watering can and I'll hang my swiffer dusters on hooks under top shelf. (Pic just shows one shelf - I cut 2, and need to trim both of course). Also, I painted this baseboard before I decided to change all the baseboard to match what's in the rest of the house - so I still need to change it out in this little corner.

johnnieb, yes, the range is JennAire pro style. I love it! Love the convection oven, warming drawer, the higher Btu burner and the low simmer burner with melt setting.

rhome, thank you so much. I looked high and low for baskets that would fit those shelves and finally found these at Wal-Mart. They have a wire frame covered in canvas material with khaki burlap trim, $5 each.

flyleft, about those miter cuts - you wouldn't believe how many wrong cuts I made!! Thank God for caulk.

fran1523, I love this color pallette too. My kitchen is on the north side of the house and doesn't get good light and it always seemed so dark and cold and depressing. Not anymore!

cotehele, I've got more than a few pics of the house here:

Here is a link that might be useful: pics of house: the good, the bad and the ugly


clipped on: 05.19.2008 at 09:21 am    last updated on: 05.19.2008 at 09:22 am

RE: jodi in so calif---your tile backsplash? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: jodi_in_so_calif on 03.15.2008 at 06:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks Kristen. The Fire & Ice Quartz Brick I think is more expensive than your standard backsplash materials for a number of reasons.

1. Fire & Ice is a fairly new to market having been just been introduced in 2007

2. There are a variety of sizes and colors of quartz brick plus two different colors of 2" x 2" glass to consider

3. Each piece of quartz brick has to be cut a particular length and mounted on a 12" x 12" net backing so it will fit like a puzzle into the next square

The $14-$16 sq ft price I quoted on another post did not include the cost of installation. We don't know what installation cost because it was included in the quote our contractor gave us and we didn't ask him to break it down for us.

The Fire & Ice was actually a choice we had to make at the very last minute. Our first choice was a silver-grey tumbled slate that was a lovely light, bright shimmery silver. By the time we got around to actually doing our kitchen remodel, the slate was coming out of the quarry as a medium blue. I didn't even recognize the tile when our designer showed us a new sample she had received. We went into panic mode and quickly looked at more backsplash samples she had.

By now our granite (Impala Black) and cabinets (Cherry with a Brandy stain and chocolate glaze) had been installed and we realized the silver-gray would not have been much of a statement but when we found the Fire & Ice, we knew it was perfect. But before we found the Fire & Ice, we saw silver-gray at the Great Indoors or Expo (also now a med blue) and noted for the first time, the actual cost, which was $3.44 square foot. When the $15 sq ft cost of Fire & Ice hit us, it didn't much matter, we only needed 50 sq feet and it was so perfect we never even considered looking any further.



clipped on: 05.19.2008 at 09:10 am    last updated on: 05.19.2008 at 09:10 am

RE: Cabinets Up to the Ceiling? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: melanie1121 on 05.04.2008 at 09:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks for your reply! I posted the question because I saw so many photos of kitchens with crown molding and soffits.
Im planning on going up to the ceiling with the cabinets and crown but was wondering if the look is "out dated". Plus, I have a very small kitchen so I was wondering if 36" cabinets to the ceiling would be overwhelming. In any case,
Anita and Joanne: Good point! I think if a space is there dust will collect!
Redroze: You got it right the first time. Crown molding plus soffit. Thanks for the info also regarding the Christopher Peacock kicthens. I looked at his website and saw the photos of the cabinets with the crown molding up to the ceiling and they are beautiful. Thanks for sharing the photo of your kitchen. It's beautiful.
Edlakin: Tin ceiling sounds lovely...a very classic look.
Thanks for the ideas. I think I will definately go up to the ceiling with the crown molding.
All the best!


clipped on: 05.04.2008 at 09:09 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2008 at 09:09 pm

RE: Cabinets Up to the Ceiling? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: redroze on 05.04.2008 at 08:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm with nomoreblue...we're pulling out our bulkheads and installing them up to the ceiling. I don't think it's outdated at all. Christopher Peacock kitchens are very "in" and many of his go to the ceiling.

I also don't like dust...hate the idea that I'd have to dust up there all the time!


clipped on: 05.04.2008 at 09:08 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2008 at 09:08 pm

RE: Cabinets Up to the Ceiling? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: joann23456 on 05.04.2008 at 08:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm with Anita. I have space above the cabinets now and hate the gunk. I'll have cabinets to the ceiling in the remodel.

.. Joann


clipped on: 05.04.2008 at 09:08 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2008 at 09:08 pm

I hope not... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: nomorebluekitchen on 05.04.2008 at 07:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

because I'm pulling out soffits and putting cabs to the ceiling! I don't like having a dust collector up that high and the extra storage will be handy for things I don't use that often.



clipped on: 05.04.2008 at 09:07 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2008 at 09:07 pm

Cabinets Up to the Ceiling?

posted by: melanie1121 on 05.04.2008 at 05:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

Is placing kitchen cabinets up to the ceiling a thing of the past?
I noticed many cabinets are now featured with a nice crown molding and a clearing or soffit above. Is the intention to provide an open and airy feeling? I ask because I'm remodeling a small kitchen and am wondering which is the best way to go. Feedback and/or photographs much appreciated.


clipped on: 05.04.2008 at 09:07 pm    last updated on: 05.04.2008 at 09:07 pm