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RE: Help with grout color - pictures (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: bill_vincent on 02.03.2010 at 01:02 am in Bathrooms Forum

Mapei's Warm grey
Custom's Platinum
Laticrete's Silver Shadow

Those are the three tops.


clipped on: 06.26.2010 at 02:26 am    last updated on: 06.26.2010 at 02:27 am

Help with grout color - pictures

posted by: snert on 10.22.2009 at 08:20 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We are in the midst of a basement remodel of our 1920s bungalow. We are adding a small, period bathroom. The floortile is tumbled marble white-gray baseketweave with dark squares, and we are using unglazed Dal-Tile hex for the shower floor (I know, no very period, but we like the look.)

We were thinking about using a charcoal black grout for both, since I think you need the dark line to achieve the basketweave look. My GC tells me that black will look bad, show all of the imperfections in the natural stone, and discolor the natural stone over time, he recommends a white or perhaps grey.

Is he right? What color grout do people recommend? FWIW, we are using unsanded grey grout for the Dal-Tile arctic white subway wall tiles.

From Basement Remodel

From Basement Remodel

From Basement Remodel


clipped on: 06.26.2010 at 02:23 am    last updated on: 06.26.2010 at 02:23 am

RE: Other Moisture Barriers Besides Kerdi for Shower (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: mongoct on 06.24.2010 at 12:51 am in Bathrooms Forum

It doesn't seem like your guy is deceptive, he just comes across as being uneducated.

He's probably referring to "Aqua Tough" instead of "Aqua Touch". Aqua Tough is not a cement board. It's a derivative of gypsum and fiber cellulose. Even though USG recommends it for tub and shower surrounds, personally I would not use it in a shower. But that's my personal opinion. Nothing more.

I've already discussed why cement board is not waterproof in my previous posts.

His shower pan description sounds fine. "Sand mix" is fine.

Using silicone on the walls? A waste of time. My opinion. All he needs to do is use 6-mil polyethylene plastic sheeting on the walls before hanging the cement board. Have the bottom edge of the poly drape OVER the part of the floor membrane that goes 10" up the wall. The cost of the polyethylene is pennies, it will be less than the cost of the silicone and it'll actually provide protection.

The cement board seams? Those should be taped with alaklai-resistant mesh tape and then thinsetted. The reason the seams should be taped and thinsetted is to make the wall assembly that is made up of several individual pieces of cement board perform as a singular monolithic surface. Seams that are not taped and thinsetted could cause cracking in the tile and grout over the seams. The silicone does pretty much nothing.

If he resists, hire someone else. My opinion.


clipped on: 06.26.2010 at 01:59 am    last updated on: 06.26.2010 at 01:59 am

Tiles of different thicknesses

posted by: nymommy on 03.17.2010 at 10:40 pm in Bathrooms Forum

So, I am going to be using a basic white ceramic subway tile and I found a beautiful mini-brick marble liner but it is slightly thicker than the wall tile. Has anyone had this problem? I wouldn't be too concerned if it was the other way around but I don't want the grout line where the mosaic meets the tile to look bulky or awkward. Here are the tiles but it is kinda hard to see because of the glare. I'm curious if anyone has made this work before. Thanks so much!

Here is a link that might be useful: tile


clipped on: 06.12.2010 at 04:01 am    last updated on: 06.12.2010 at 04:01 am

RE: sealing tile??? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mongoct on 03.02.2010 at 09:14 pm in Bathrooms Forum

It helps to seal natural stone, but it does you no good whatsoever to seal porcelain or ceramic tile. It can actually cause you problems since ceramics are pretty much non-porous, so instead of penetrating into the tile, the sealer will just sit on top. If it dries it can leave a haze.

Matter of fact, most sealers have a warning to not get the sealer on the tile, and if you do, wipe it off before it dries.

Many grouts are modified, they come with anti-microbe this and polymerized that. Still, grouts can benefit from sealing IF they are in a harsh environment.

I wouldn't seal wall grout in a dry area. You can seal floor grout, but it's best to just chose a non-white color and give it a good cleaning when it needs it. If you had a nasty area like a well-used mudroom on a pig farm, then an epoxy grout would probably be a wise choice.

In wet areas like a shower, personally, I don't seal grout. You'll not find many installers who do. Most tilers leave it to the homeowner to seal, because in many respects, sealing grout can be of dubious value. My opinion.

When would I seal grout in a shower? If I was installing natural stone. I recommend natural stone be sealed, so it's a no-brainer to seal the grout at the same time.

If you do seal in a wet area, use a breathable sealer that allow vapor transmission.

In my own house, none of the bathrooms have sealed grout. I didn't seal the grout in my laundry room floor either. The only grout that is sealed is on my foyer floor,'s slate. I wanted to seal the slate, so the grout got hit at the same time.


clipped on: 06.12.2010 at 03:59 am    last updated on: 06.12.2010 at 03:59 am

RE: what size grout lines for subway on walls of tub (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bill_vincent on 04.14.2010 at 04:50 pm in Bathrooms Forum

As for the nubs, don't worry about it-- I'll tell you right now-- your tile is self spacing. As for thinset, any modified thinset would work well to set your tile. Something like Laticrete's Multipurpose thinset from Lowes, or Custom's Versabond at Home Depot would work great.

As for the mesh tape, I'd strongly suggest using a self adhesive mesh tape, and then just thinset over it when you go to set yout tile. The reason is that if you go over the mesh tape ahead of time, you'll end up with "speed bumps" throughout your wall. Thinsetting the tape as you set your tile will be just as strong an installation.


clipped on: 06.12.2010 at 03:55 am    last updated on: 06.12.2010 at 03:55 am

RE: classic/period/retro white hex/subway advice? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bill_vincent on 05.21.2007 at 09:25 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Rittenhouse would be 100 white. As for the hex, the color name is white (very original! :-) ) As for the hex grout color, if you're looking to have the grey period look, look into the following colors:

Laticrete Silver Shadow or Light Pewter

Hydroment Mobe Pearl

Custom Building Products Platinum

Mapei Warm Bray


clipped on: 06.12.2010 at 02:22 am    last updated on: 06.12.2010 at 02:23 am

FIrst pics - Daltile Rittenhouse and Keystones masterbath

posted by: festusbodine on 03.09.2010 at 11:26 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Our long awaited tile install is almost finished. This is in a master suite addition to a 1930 craftsman bungalow in Houston. We wanted a vintage look, but with some contemporary amenities. Also wanted to do something a little different than the predictable solid white. Can't wait to get back in the house.

Here is a link that might be useful: Our bungalow and kitchen remodel blog


clipped on: 06.12.2010 at 02:08 am    last updated on: 06.12.2010 at 02:08 am

RE: calling those with white subway tile bathrooms.... (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 09.26.2009 at 11:07 am in Bathrooms Forum

Blue, to match the blue tile liner.


And a cherry/maple accent:


clipped on: 06.12.2010 at 02:05 am    last updated on: 06.12.2010 at 02:06 am

B & W checkerboard/subway tile kids' bath

posted by: hoffman on 01.13.2008 at 08:43 pm in Bathrooms Forum








Kohler Memoirs toilet & sink
Kohler pinstripe faucets & accessories
Kohler villager tub (the only one that would fit)
Rejuvenation medicine cabinet, pushbutton switches & light fixtures
Daltile subway tile & black liners
marble mosaic checkerboard floor tile
Pottery Barn Kids towels & shower curtain
BM "white satin" paint
Nero Marquina (black) marble windowsill


clipped on: 06.12.2010 at 01:34 am    last updated on: 06.12.2010 at 01:34 am

RE: chair rail and frameless shower door (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: codnuggets on 09.04.2008 at 10:49 pm in Bathrooms Forum

You could do this...

Sorry, I don't have a closeup of the returns after the glass install, but you get the idea. There is a metal channel along that wall the glass is sitting in. You could also have the glass notched, but it will likely cost a little more and require a precision install to get it exactly right. I had planned to have my glass notched but I ended up having to do the returns due to a communication mixup. I think I like this better anyway, and after watching how much fudging they did with the install, I'm not sure how well the notching would have worked out.



clipped on: 06.12.2010 at 01:12 am    last updated on: 06.12.2010 at 01:12 am

Mrs. Limestone Inspired Bathroom- Photos

posted by: flstella on 01.17.2009 at 10:09 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here are some photos of our recently completed master bath. Thanks to all for the advice I received in this forum, and especially to Mrs. Limestone for the inspiration. I need some accessories - especially for the tub deck, feel free to make suggestions!

Here's my vanity and the tub. This view was taken from the shower, before the shower glass was installed. There is now an LCD TV above the towel rack, so I can watch the news while I get ready in the morning, and watch from the tub as well. If only they made a waterproof laptop, I would never leave the tub!

This is my husband's (smaller) vanity:

View of the tub as you're standing at the entrance to the bathroom- taken before the shower glass was put in. A glass wall now rests on the left side of the tub:

Here's the shower:

And this shot is looking at my husband's vanity and toilet from inside the shower:

Closer view of marble basketweave floor:

Faucets are all from the Moen Kingsley line
Vanities, sinks, sconces, towel bars & rings, and mirrors all from Restoration Hardware.
Tub is Jacuzzi Allusion. Toilet is Jacuzzi brand also.
Tub deck and vanity tops are Bianco Sevic Marble
Subway tile, pencil liner, and chair rail all from Lowe's.
Floor tile is Carrara Marble Basketweave from Classic Tile NY
Glass shower enclosure from K&K Glass
Wall paint: "Shore" (I think) from Restoration Hardware

Let me know what you think!


clipped on: 06.12.2010 at 01:10 am    last updated on: 06.12.2010 at 01:10 am

tile for tub surround

posted by: swesna on 06.07.2010 at 09:10 pm in Bathrooms Forum

OK...we have cement backer board installed around our tub. Also, there is a window that will have tile installed inside the jamb. The window has a two inch jamb and is a fiberglass awning window.

Also, the backer board is not level with the green board. It should have potentially needed to be shimmed to meet the green board more evenly. The back board is about an 1/8 to a 1/4 inch lower than the green board in some places. Mainly in the front of the tub where the back board would meet the green board.

My friend the plumber started to install the tile onto the backer board, NOT where the backer board meets the green board. But the tile is not coming out smooth. For example, the edges of one tile are not level with the next. The tile is porcelain and are 8 X 12 inches each. He used the mastic pre-mixed to place the tile onto the backer board and used a 1/4 X 3/8 floor trowel.

I saw numerous postings NOT to use mastic pre-mix to place the tile onto the backer board.

Also, I am thinking the 1/4 X 3/8 trowel is placing too much mastic onto the walls.

Question 1: What type of trowel should be used to place the tile onto the wall?

Question 2: Should I remove all of the tile and replace the backer board. This time shimming the backer board in order for it to meet the green board evenly.

Question 3: Should I go out and buy Laticrete 255?

Question 4: Based on what I am reading does the backer board need to be sealed? I am sure back in the day the only thing behind tile was regular sheet rock...are we really saying that we now need to use backer board and then coat it with something to make it water proof. Is the cement fiber board not water proof enough or a hell of a lot better than ordinary sheet rock which is in most houses in the US.

Any help would be appreciated...Thanks in advance.



clipped on: 06.12.2010 at 12:40 am    last updated on: 06.12.2010 at 12:42 am

RE: Bill Vincents FAQ (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bill_vincent on 12.30.2009 at 07:42 pm in Bathrooms Forum

That's a matter of personal taste, but yes, I think it looks better all the way to the ceiling.

Now, you want to use a membrane on these walls, and it depends which way you want to go as to what goes first. The normal way to go about putting this together is to take some 6 mil polyethlene or 15 pound tar paper, once the tub is in, and put it over the studs to use as a vapor barrier. let whichever you use, lap over the lip of the tub, and then cut it off flush with the face of the cement board once you install it. Plan B is to install the cement board right over the studs, and then coat it with a roll on waterproofing, such as Laticrete's Hydroban, or Custom's Redgard. Either one is sufficient, but the waterproofing will obviously keep things a bit drier, being the only things on top of it will be the tile, thinset, and grout. Once you're to this point, you're pretty much ready to set tile.

One other thing-- the cement board should set above the tub's lip, as opposed to over it. Otherwise, it'll kick the bottom of the cement board out. Afterward, you can fill the resulting channel with a stiff thinset to provide backing for the bottoms of the first row of tile.


clipped on: 06.11.2010 at 11:01 pm    last updated on: 06.12.2010 at 12:42 am