Clippings by marymoq

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: Proposed Rose Trellises (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: hoovb on 07.12.2008 at 03:38 pm in Roses Forum

janen it is very easy:

You basically make two "A" shapes out of 2x2 cedar or redwood. Depending on height, you may need more than a single crossbar. It depends how tall your tower is. I put 3. No need to measure, they just need to be evenly spaced.

Now you have your two "A" shapes, and you connect those two "A"s with two additional sets of crossbars to form the tower. (The tower ends up with 4 sides.)

You can then add 1 or more pickets or fence slats, I think they are 1x2s, going vertically, running up the middles of the "A"s, to add visual interest and additional strength.

The horizontal crossbars need to be cut at an angle at each end (because the long sides of the "A" taper towards the top, it forms an angle), so a miter saw or miter box to get the angle cuts is extremely helpful.

Put everything together with wood or deck screws, not nails, to make it last longer. You get a fence-post topper to put on the top to make it look fancier.

4 2x2's for the "A"s.
additional 2x2s for the crossbars
wood or deck screws
fence post topper for top
saw, preferably miter (angle)
drill for drilling/screwing the wood screws
safety goggles
Husband to say "Here, give me that, I'll do it." while you go into the house and have a glass of lemonade.

Even easier is to make teepees from rebar. Sink the rebar 18"-24" into the ground and use a hose clamp to connect them all at the top. You can also put a fence-post topper on the top as well for extra pizazz.

Here is a link that might be useful: a picture of what a hose clamp is


clipped on: 01.17.2011 at 06:58 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2011 at 06:58 pm

RE: Proposed Rose Trellises (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: hoovb on 07.11.2008 at 12:35 pm in Roses Forum

here you go proudgm_03



Tuteur with A S Grey


clipped on: 01.17.2011 at 06:57 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2011 at 06:57 pm

RE: this looks like a great way to hide the tv (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: dallasbill on 10.31.2008 at 05:31 pm in Building a Home Forum

I wouldn't touch one of these with a 10ft pole.

Not recommended for plasma TVs as they give off more heat and that heat needs to be dissipated. Not recommended for silver TVs because it does not "blend in" like with a black TV and so you can see the TV through it.

Also, you better not have a husband who is a videophile, because these things will reduce the light coming through, which reduces picture quality. In fact, their brochure says that only 65% of light passes through, 6% is absorbed by the glass and 35% is reflected. Now, since that adds up to more than 100%, something is up! And before someone says "but that's just from the front side," it's not. The glass can be used either side, which means it's coated the same on both sides.

Lastly, since it is 35% (or whatever) reflective, that means that its very bad for an LCD TV in a bright room in daylight. Without it you have no issues at all because LCD screens are not reflective (like a plasma). With it, you will now have that issue and it will be almost as reflective as a plasma. Thus, off-angle viewing, in particular, will suffer with reflections.

Want to hide the TV? Hide it in another room... ;-)


clipped on: 11.03.2008 at 05:14 pm    last updated on: 11.03.2008 at 05:14 pm

RE: What Do I Need To Know About Security Systems? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sniffdog on 10.06.2008 at 11:19 am in Building a Home Forum


I have some experience with this - from my first house where I paid ADT to install the security system and my new house where I installed the security system myself.

If you pay a company like ADT to do the security system - they will typically want to sell you additional separate smoke detectors that are connected to and monitored by the security system. These detectors are seperate and not connected to the smoke detectors that you need per your building code. Way back in 1993 when we had our first house built - the building code only required 1 smoke detector per floor. So we added 1 additional smoke detector on the second floor, and only that detector was monitored by the security system. The other 3 house detectors per code that were not monitored by the security system. I questioned why the security company did not use the house detectors I already had and was told they could not. It turns out they could have BUT the alarm companies make a lot more money selling you additional sensors.

Fast forward to 2007 and my new home. I got so frustrated paying ADT to service my system ($400 for a new key pad!!) that I decided to do the security system myself. This time the building code required us to have 10 smoke detectors for the house - yikes! So there was no way I was going to have 10 of those plus another few for the alarm system.

It turns out that if you find the right alarm company - there is a little interface board that can montior the signal used my your home smoke detectors to alert each other when there is an alarm. Ever wonder why or how all you house smoke detectors go off when one (like the kitchen) detector goes off? Code requires house smoke detectors be hard wired in a chain - and that is done using 3 conductor wire - either 14/3 or 12/3. Two of the wires are for 120 volt power but the third wire (the red one) is used to carry a low voltage signal that allows all of the detectots to know when any one of them is outputting an alarm condition. If you tap into that signal your security system can monitor you home smoke detectors - with no additional smoke detectors needed.

Now here's the catch. I was told (but I never verified this) that you can't pass the building inspection if you have a low voltage wire that is tied to your house smoke detectors and running to your security system. So I added that feature immediately after I moved in.

So you can either have two sets of smoke detectors (one just for the house and one set for the security system) or find a security system company that will tie in your home smoke detectors to your security system after you move in.

The circuit board to provide this interface is tiny and very inexpensive (maybe 20 dollars in parts & labor to make one). This intreface board is the size of 4 postage stamps and it goes into your security system box. You run a pair of wires to the very first house smoke detector in the chain (usually in the basement). One lead get's tied to the red wire, one to neutral (white) - this is the way the alarm system will sense the 9 volt signal on the line. Another pair of wires from the little interface board goes into you security system as a monitored alarm zone. Most alarm contollers have a special zone set up just for fire alarms.

Whenever any house smoke detector goes off, a 9 volt signal is sent down the red wire from that smoke detector to trigger all other detectors to sound off. The security system interface board will sense this voltage (key here - without reducing the load on that red line) and send an alarm to the security minitoring company.

Hope that helps.


clipped on: 10.07.2008 at 05:26 pm    last updated on: 10.07.2008 at 05:26 pm

RE: my bathroom. I'll post from start to finish (Follow-Up #56)

posted by: folkman on 07.24.2008 at 09:49 am in Bathrooms Forum

July 24th Update:
Sorry I have been a bit behind. Finally got the new hole for the sink drilled and will be getting plumber back soon to finish and that will be it!

Just wanted to post these photos. My girlfriend felt we needed more storage so I copied an idea I found in the forum-a "concealed cabinet" It looks like a painting in a frame but opens to a small medicine chest. I built mine myself. Its simple and fun. Oh my 12 year old did the painting!



Not sure if I'll be posting anymore so I just wanted to thank everyone for following. It will be a few weeks till the shower door comes in but its nice to have a working bathroom back!



clipped on: 09.23.2008 at 06:23 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2008 at 06:23 pm

RE: granite countertop with integral dish drain (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: rmkitchen on 08.05.2008 at 12:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

What you're talking about are also called runnels -- if you do a search using "runnels" you'll find lots of info and great pictures!

On one side of our (apron front sink) we have petite runnels -- we use them to drain produce. They're pretty good -- they definitely do drain better than if it were just a flat countertop, that's for sure!

Now on the other side of our sink we have a dish drain -- it's a large surface completely cut away, draining into the sink. We keep our dishrack on it and it s FABULOUS! We got the runnels specifically for produce, but if we had them for draining dishes I'm not sure how happy I'd be ... having to wipe out the individual runnels of gunge. The dishdrain is a breeze to wipe down and, again, it is terrific for not having water pool on the countertop or a soggy towel (as we did before) or one of those ugly rubber trays underneath. Yea!

Our countertop is marble, and I think most of the runnels / dishdrains I've seen here on GW are in soapstone.


clipped on: 09.22.2008 at 08:33 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2008 at 08:33 pm

RE: Outdoor Lights, Light Sensing? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: frogpatch on 09.10.2008 at 04:42 pm in Lighting Forum

You can buy wire in photo controls at any electrical supply. You drill a half inch hole in the back plate of the fixture and poke the sensor through it. I prefer replacing the switch with a digital timer. That way you can choose any fixture you like.

Here is a link that might be useful: Kids and adults Go Green at Frogpatch


clipped on: 09.12.2008 at 08:39 pm    last updated on: 09.12.2008 at 08:40 pm

RE: keeping soap scum at bay (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lazarususa on 09.04.2008 at 07:14 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Very simply, do NOT use bar soap. Use liquid soap only. Bar soap contains animal fat fillers and it is this that produces soap "scum." Anytime I do a tile shower for a customer, that is the advice I give them. In addition, either squeegee or towell the walls dry when you're done. If you do this, the shower will last forever.


clipped on: 09.08.2008 at 08:57 pm    last updated on: 09.08.2008 at 08:57 pm

RE: Wanting old looking new door chimes (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: lkplatow on 06.30.2008 at 05:44 pm in Building a Home Forum

We have this one from Lowes and I love it.

It's less than $10 and lets out the most satisfying ring - sort of reminds me of the recess bell at school, LOL! We didn't like the shiny chrome so I roughed it up with some sandpaper and sprayed it with some antique brass metal spray paint. I was worried that the hammer would chip off the paint, but it's been several years now and it's still holding up.

Here is a link that might be useful: Lowes Doorbell.


clipped on: 07.01.2008 at 07:34 pm    last updated on: 07.01.2008 at 07:34 pm

RE: Built-in outdoor gas grill recommendations (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: gizmonike on 05.20.2008 at 12:22 am in Appliances Forum

We asked many of our friends what gas grill they have & like best. The overwhelming answer: DCS. We checked out many grills & went with DCS too. It has a patented smoker chip box that DH really likes.


clipped on: 05.22.2008 at 06:05 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2008 at 06:05 pm

jea2007 (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: allison0704 on 05.18.2007 at 09:06 am in Building a Home Forum

Here is a photo of a top corner. Is this what you wanted?


clipped on: 05.23.2007 at 07:55 pm    last updated on: 05.23.2007 at 07:55 pm