Clippings by marti8a

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RE: Painting plastic planters to look less plastic? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: Rain1950 on 10.04.2005 at 10:36 am in Garden Accoutrements Forum

The swirl patterns is an old hippie method called dip-painting. The pots are cheapo WalMart ones. Scrub them down with soap and water; when dry spray with flat white. Line a plastic tun with plastic and fill half-way with water. You can buy the cheap WalMart spray paint in may colors. Spray the colors of choice on the surface of the water and dip the pot into it. Sometimes you need to make two or three dips to get the desired pattern.

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clipped on: 09.23.2014 at 09:58 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2014 at 09:58 pm

RE: Should I paint 1950s maple cabinets white? (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: equest17 on 01.04.2013 at 09:37 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I'm a little confused by the posters who recommend not painting them simply based on the premise of keeping the original finish. The OP stated that her house is a 1920's Dutch Colonial. These cabinets seem very 1950's mod or retro, not vintage. What would be the benefit of keeping them unpainted? Unless she were to replace them entirely and donate them, in which case I can see someone enjoying the stained finished in a home of a similar era/style.

To the OP, I think I had the exact same laminate counter pre-remodel! I was in a similar position as you with a 1920's house with 1950's cabinets, except mine were already painted and needed revitalizing. I prepped, sanded, sprayed BM Advance paint, removed the upper doors, and used new hardware, and I love the look. It's still just slab doors on the bottom, and I may eventually have new doors made all around, but I think it's a much more fitting look for my period home.

Painting cabinets is a lot of work, but it can be done in small chunks. BM Satin Impervo is fabulous if you want to brush or roll, which allows you to do cabinets individually instead of masking and spraying the whole kitchen.

Before:
IMG_0644

After:
Photobucket

Here is a link that might be useful: My farmhouse kitchen update

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clipped on: 08.18.2014 at 12:05 pm    last updated on: 08.18.2014 at 12:05 pm

RE: Dark Cherry Kitchen Cabinets (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: AnnieDeighnaugh on 08.17.2014 at 01:18 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I went with an autumn leaf color...

Originally it was much lighter and I found it did nothing for the graining in the cabinetry. (This pic was while under construction...)

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clipped on: 08.18.2014 at 12:01 pm    last updated on: 08.18.2014 at 12:02 pm

RE: Beets? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: Kali615 on 08.23.2012 at 02:31 pm in Harvest Forum

I roast the beets in foil with olive oil until fork pierces (usually takes about 1 - 1.5 hours) then slice. (I also just used this with my home canned beets straight out of the jar last night and they were fabulous.)

I then make one of two sauces:

Sauce 1:
2 tbs honey
2 tbs butter
2 tbs balsamic vinegar

sauce 2:
juice of 1 orange
2 tbs sugar
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
zest of orange

Either way add ingredients to pan heat till bubbling (just about 3 minutes), add beets, heat through and serve.

I prefer the orange glaze, however, both my 2 and 3 year old will clean their plate if I make the honey method so depending on what else is for dinner that sometimes wins.

Kalindi

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clipped on: 08.18.2014 at 12:34 am    last updated on: 08.18.2014 at 12:34 am

Photos of your Style

posted by: aktillery on 07.30.2014 at 07:55 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I always wonder the style of the poster when I get opinions on my various decorating questions.

I think it would be fun for anyone who wants to "show" their style. It doesn't need to be a picture of your home, it can be an inspiration pic or a photo of a room you really love.

I will go first. I would say my style is traditional but in a more contemporary way. I like straight lines for the most part. I love antique piece! I am also a huge fan of lamps, the more the merrier. It is hard to describe. Guess that is why posting a photo always helps.

I am posting photos from For the love of a house blog.

 photo BarnRoom080_zps8c9ad4cc.jpg

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clipped on: 07.31.2014 at 10:36 pm    last updated on: 07.31.2014 at 10:36 pm

RE: Has anyone ever sold a house on their own (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: beaglesdoitbetter on 07.21.2014 at 01:52 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Yes, we have. We just sold our FL house on our own (the buyer had no realtor either... that was a GREAT transaction) and are in the process of selling my dad's house on our own right now (have 2 pending offers).

Having had the experience, there is no earthly way I would ever pay a realtor 3 percent to sell a house. We used a flat fee MLS listing for my dad's house (our FL house we didn't even list on the MLS just on Zillow). I highly recommend listing on the MLS unless you are in a really good market. This is the one we used: http://flatfeerealty.com

We agreed to pay a 2.5 percent commission to buyer's agents and we have had plenty of showings and as I said, now have two offers pending.

If you have any specific questions about the process or our experience, let me know and I can answer them.

Edited to add, in neither case did we have buyers try to get us to reduce our price based on the fact that we'd be saving commission. With the flat fee MLS, the house actually is listed by a realtor so there would be no reason for buyers to even assume that would be a possibility.

This post was edited by beaglesdoitbetter on Mon, Jul 21, 14 at 13:53

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clipped on: 07.21.2014 at 06:53 pm    last updated on: 07.21.2014 at 06:53 pm

RE: Do you have some kind of "charging station" for your I-stuff? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: maddielee on 04.30.2014 at 09:52 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I do! I got this idea from Pinterest, using a photo box, curtain grommets and a power strip.

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

Top off...the mess is inside.

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

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clipped on: 05.01.2014 at 10:34 am    last updated on: 05.01.2014 at 10:34 am

Need Help with Bedding... for 4-Poster Bed

posted by: ILoveCookie on 03.19.2014 at 11:42 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I am totally at a loss about what to do with the bedding for my new Sheraton bed frame. Pictures attached... Any help would be highly appreciated. Thank you!

Here is the bed frame in reality. The box spring will sit on the slats, which in turn sit on the angle irons.

Here is the bed with mattress and box spring. I temporarily covered the side of the box spring with a red sheet. There is less than 1" gap between the box spring and the side rail (on each side), and I cannot easily pull anything thick through the gap.

Here is the bed with our temporary comforter on the top. My initial thought was to replace my comforter with a quilt (or blanket), and cover the entire bed with a huge custom-sized bedspread, and put the bedspread inside the side rails and footboard.

So I tried my initial idea by putting our existing throw inside the side rails. Then I realized it's not an easy task as I thought would be, due to the small gap between the box spring and the side rails. If husband and I have to make the bed this way every day, I don't know how long I can keep my sanity. I am not even sure if the side rails and footboard and angle irons are supposed to be exposed or covered up by bedding.

Here is the other solution I had in my mind after trying the above...just cover everything up with a giant bedspread, including side rails and footboard. The only problem with this approach is, the bedspread won't drape nicely where the posts are.

What do you think? I want to hear your ideas! Thank you very much!

This post was edited by ILoveCookie on Wed, Mar 19, 14 at 12:06

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clipped on: 03.19.2014 at 12:20 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2014 at 12:21 pm

RE: side of cabinet pullout--have you seen this? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: hollysprings on 12.26.2013 at 10:44 am in Kitchens Forum

All pullouts need a 3/4" side panel if they are installed on an end or next to an appliance. Now, there are "message centers" that are 6"-9" deep that are designed to cover a cabinet on the end.

Innards. You can see why it has to be installed between cabinets, or between a cabinet and a panel.

See the panel on the right hand side?

Between two cabinets.


Message centers.

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clipped on: 02.06.2014 at 01:27 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2014 at 01:28 pm

RE: Way cool Lee Valley organizers: way too much? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: cloud_swift on 06.30.2011 at 05:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here is what my husband did in a drawer from our old cabinets. A channel is created by nailing a small piece of wood to the side of drawer on each side of where we wanted a divider. (This picture was taken after the old kitchen was demo'ed which is why the drawer isn't in a cabinet.)
Photobucket

For the new drawers, he avoided making holes in the drawer by putting wood slats on the two sides of the drawer. Slots were routed in the slats for the dividers to slip in.

Photobucket

It's a good thing he didn't make holes in the drawer because shortly later we were introduced to buying spices in bulk from Penzey's or Spice House. I store most of the spices in the freezer and use them to refill small bottles that sit upright in the drawer so we removed the dividers.

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clipped on: 02.06.2014 at 01:20 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2014 at 01:21 pm

RE: Manchester Tan or Halo? Can you share pictures if you have an (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: shanghaimom on 12.02.2013 at 12:10 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Hi there,

I've been a big Manchester Tan fan for many years. Three different houses, many different rooms and different types of lighting, including a basement. This color has yet to fail me--it has no pinky undertones seems to look rich yet light. It works with wood trim, white trim and cream trim. We have hardwood floors in a medium warm tone.

Here it is in a guest bedroom with north-facing windows:

 photo DSC_0422_zps8f4bb0bb.jpg

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clipped on: 12.03.2013 at 12:26 am    last updated on: 12.03.2013 at 12:26 am

RE: Need help choosing settee upholstery color (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: maggiepie11 on 11.06.2013 at 10:23 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

hi there!

i'm not sure if the style of furniture is representative or if these shades were what you had in mind. i like color, so i'd choose anything but matching the wall. :)

maybe these help?

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clipped on: 11.06.2013 at 12:04 pm    last updated on: 11.06.2013 at 12:04 pm

RE: Getting More Feet in the Door (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: LOTO on 10.30.2013 at 09:49 pm in Buying and Selling Homes Forum

Windows Live Photo Gallery is free and I use it a lot....have Photoshop too but find windows is faster and easier for most edits.

Here is a link that might be useful: Windows Live Gallery Download Page

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clipped on: 11.03.2013 at 10:06 pm    last updated on: 11.03.2013 at 10:06 pm

RE: No Peek Stew (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: ruthz on 10.25.2013 at 08:39 am in Cooking Forum

This recipe is from the Once-A -Week Cooking forum,
Your Favorite Family recipe thread.

I've been making it for years and it's always a favorite.
My grandsons love it, and in fact requested it for camping this weekend.
I cook it in my Nesco Roaster and serve it over mashed potatoes.
I use Eye of Round Roast cut into chunks, and no mushrooms except what's in the soup (grandsons don't like them).

Teresa, I don't use bread crumbs.

Here is the recipe as copied from other forum

No Peek Casserole

2 lbs stew meat ( i use 3 lbs)
1 can Campbell's Chicken Mushroom Soup
1/2 cup Gingerale
1 pkg Lipton Onion Soup Mix
1 4 oz jar mushrooms, drained (optional)

Preheat oven to 300. Comebine ALL ingredients (DO NOT brown meat and DO NOT dilute soup with water) together. Mix well. It will be lumpy before it's cooked. Pour into a casserole dish and cover. Bake 2 1/2 to 3 hours. DON't PEEK!! Serve over pasta, rice or mashed potatoe's. The smell as it's cooking is WONDERFUL

This post was edited by ruthz on Fri, Oct 25, 13 at 8:42

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clipped on: 10.28.2013 at 11:59 pm    last updated on: 10.28.2013 at 11:59 pm

Hutch finally refinished! Pics and a few questions

posted by: juddgirl2 on 12.29.2010 at 04:07 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

After several hits and misses I'm done refinishing my CL hutch. This process has taken me so much time and effort so please, please don't tell me if you hate it or if it looks terrible in the foyer! It's so tall that this is the only possible room where I can use it.

The hutch is an an antique replica supposedly from Pierre Deux and it has great bones - solid wood and dovetailed drawers. Unfortunately, it also had about 40 years worth of furniture wax on it that took several weekends with wax remover, acetone, and a toothbrush to completely remove.

My first intention was to get rid of the very yellow-orange pine and use a multilayered stain/colorwash technique to replicate the RH St. James furniture. This didn't work out so well and I ended up using an espresso glaze over a solid coat of BM Baby Turtle.

I ended up loving the final result. It's cottage style but my house is a mix of rustic and cottage so it should work. I think it lends a touch of color to the foyer but still keeps the overall monotone, subdued look.

Below are the before, during and after pictures and a brief description of the process. Sorry for all the pics - just thought some might be interested in the during pics in case it's a look they might like them instead of the final result.

Now I have a few questions about decorating in and around the hutch and would appreciate any advice all of you decorating experts may have. Please!

1) I replaced the large, dented brass knobs with smaller Baldwin knobs in ORB. Just realized they're lacquered and are more matte black where all other knobs in our house are distressed ORB w/living finish. Should I change these out to match other knobs' finish?

2) Do you like the knobs with or without a backplate? I only have one backplate right now but can get more samples if it helps to compare.

3) I definitely want to display my ironstone collection. I have many other pitchers but so far I've only displayed 5 on the top shelf. Should I add more, less? I have a large rectangular ironstone platter I could use centered on the top shelf.

4) Any ideas for decorating the smaller shelves and top of the cupboard w/out cluttering them? I just put a few items from other parts of the house there for now, but I was thinking of using a bowl or basket for keys, etc. and perhaps a row of crystal votives on one of the shelves. I also have some glass fishing balls I could display.

5) Should the hutch be centered on the wall or moved to the left or the right? I have a parsons chair that I'd like to slipcover in linen and use on either side of the hutch if there's room.

Before - CL picture

Photobucket

After hours and hours of cleaning and bleaching. Was so tired of refinishing that I tried using just one coat of Light Brown Briwax but it brought back the yellow so I scrapped that idea.

Photobucket

After a water-based grey stain:

Photobucket

Second coat of ivory glaze and 3rd coat of brown glaze on the crown - the crown detail looked okay but the rest of the hutch was too blotchy. I just don't have the talent.

Photobucket

After 2 coats of sprayed BM Baby Turtle, General Finishes Van Dyke Brown Glaze, and 2 coats of sprayed polyacrylic.

Photobucket

Photobucket

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Photobucket

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ORB knob w/out backplate

Photobucket

ORB knob w/backplate

Photobucket


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clipped on: 10.09.2013 at 05:38 pm    last updated on: 10.09.2013 at 05:38 pm

RE: Repairing galvanized stock tank, lefd05, anyone? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: catfishsam on 04.23.2007 at 08:36 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

marti8a, about 4 or 5 years ago, my 10 ft wide stock tank started leaking. I drained it and found out that there were about a dozen small holes in the bottom.

So I let it dry well and then put some small round sheet metal pieces (used for roofing) over the holes. First I put some of the tar down and then the metal pieces on it. Then I tared over top of that. I put tar all over the bottom since it was rusted fairly well.

The tar that I used was Submarine Cooler Coating for evaporative coolers that I bought at Walmart, for $4 per quart.

It hasn't leaked since I did this. One concern I had was if it would hurt the fish or the waterlilies? It didn't seem to affect either of them.

So you might consider using that tar to cover the rust? It works best if you use a paint brush and wait for warm weather so it will go on smoothly.

Also wear some old clothes that you can throw away in case you get any on you.

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clipped on: 09.25.2013 at 11:10 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2013 at 11:10 pm

RE: Let's talk curtains (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: AnnieDeighnaugh on 09.22.2013 at 11:30 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

You already have the blinds, so I wouldn't do curtains, but I'd do a valance to cover up the hardware at top and to add softness to the room. If you do just a valance, it will minimize the issue of where to put the drape that's up against the wall. It will also block less light than a full blown drape will.

There are many easy to make valances, and they require a lot less fabric than drapes and are faster and easier to sew as there's just less to do.

This balloon valance is extremely easy to do.

As were the mock hobbled roman shade valance.

The valance in the bedroom was also easy

As was the pick-up valance in the guest room

For drapes, it couldn't get easier than what I did in the study, which is just a flat lined panel with clip rings. I made triangles of fabric with tassels hanging off and clipped those to the front.

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clipped on: 09.24.2013 at 10:23 am    last updated on: 09.24.2013 at 10:23 am

RE: Good plants? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: GreatPlains1 on 09.05.2013 at 06:30 pm in Texas Gardening Forum

We just had had two summers with weeks of 110+ and no rain so this is a similar garden test in that regard. Soil differences might not be. My soil is clay or sandy depending on the area. This summer has been better.

The rudbeckia got a bit crispy even with a drink.

All the Muhly's did well, staying green, but I personally think some others are more decorative during the summer than the Gulf Coast Muhly. It is pretty in Fall though.

Pink Scullcap was a winner in various soils and so was the purple blooming Shrubby Skullcap. A wet spring wasn't good on them however. Avoid overwatering these.

All Salvia greggii's did well in during two months of over 100 degrees during the last two summers with a couple of deep drinks.

Lantana's are indestructible.

These others have performed very well for me during the drought with very little or without supplemental watering if you want a longer list of choices:

Melancampa leucanthum (Blackfoot Daisy)
Pink Hesperaloe
Russian Sage
Damianita
Malvavisus arboreus drummondii (Turk's Cap)
Leucophylums
Penstemon ambiguus
Missouri Primrose
Flame Acanthus
Silver King Artemisia
Flame Flower
Desert Marigold
Leadplant (Amorpha canescens)
Salvia 'Hot Lips
Salvia azurea var. grandiflora
Philostrophe tagetina (Paperflower)
Penstemon 'parryii'

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clipped on: 09.07.2013 at 09:54 am    last updated on: 09.07.2013 at 09:55 am

Good plants?

posted by: rowdysmom on 09.05.2013 at 02:26 pm in Texas Gardening Forum

Dear Gardeners,
I live in Austin and had Sheryl McLaughlin draw landscape plans, including plants. She does a Sunday morning gardening show in Austin on native and well adapted, drought tolerant plants. I'm having some beds installed now and will be planting the first of October. I'm going to list the plants she recommended and see if anyone has had any bad experiences with them. My goal is to water them only rarely AFTER they are established. And I really don't want any "fussy" plants.

Goldstrum Rudbeckia
Blue Plumbago
Bulbine
Butterfly iris
Coral salvia
Goldstrum Rudbeckia
Gaura
Gulf Coast Muhly
Hymenoxys Daisy
Mexican Bush Sage
Mexican Oregano
Mystic Spires
New Gold Lantana
Pink Skullcap
Queen Victoria Agave
Raspberry salvia greggi
Red Verbena
Society Garlic
Squid Agave
Texas Betony
Trailing rosemary
Winecup
Wooley Stemodia

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clipped on: 09.07.2013 at 09:54 am    last updated on: 09.07.2013 at 09:54 am

Do you REALLY need to open the front door?

posted by: franksmom_2010 on 09.01.2013 at 07:50 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Some of you may remember when I bought this old fixture off ebay.

 photo entrylight.jpg

I bought that to go in the entryway, that had a plain "boobie" light. Parts of the fixture are brass, and parts are brass plated. Someone had at one time spray painted it gold. I'm guessing because it was tarnished?

The boobie light is going into the laundry room, and both rooms will be getting makeovers when the lights are swapped. I didn't want to pick out paint or do anything else until the lighting was finished.

Anyway, finally got around to fixing it. I cleaned it, then did a glaze of bronze Sophisticated Finishes. That paint has real bronze particles in it, so it will age and patina just like the real deal. I had glass cut, and because I couldn't find a specialty glass that I liked, I hand etched it myself, to give it an old, swirled, mottled look.

I had it rewired, and replaced the candle covers. I had to sweet talk DH into taking down that "perfectly good" light and putting this one up.

Finally! It was just as pretty as I had envisioned it to be!

 photo 000_6056_zpsda09c229.jpg

 photo 000_6054_zps878fac7a.jpg

One problem...the gang box for the light is only 2 feet or so from the wall of the front door. And now we can't fully open the door without it hitting the light. We tried splitting one of the links and hanging it higher, which didn't work. DH suggested removing some of the parts to make it a semi-flush mount, but I think that would look bad, and still won't fix the problem of the width.

I am SICK. Absolutely sick. There's nowhere else in the house that the fixture could go. It would look stupid over the master toilet, and it's all wrong for the laundry room. It *might* find a home in the new barn house, but it seems a little ornate and fussy for a barn, don't you think? Have I mentioned that I'm just sick about this?! Oh, and I know that we can have the box moved...but that would require hiring an electrician and doing drywall repair, which is just out of the question. Sick.

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clipped on: 09.01.2013 at 11:35 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2013 at 11:36 pm

RE: who loves their porcelain 'wood' floor tile? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: twn85 on 06.29.2012 at 11:11 am in Kitchens Forum

I love ours.. ABK Woodway. I grew up and am in the tile business so thats all i've ever known also. Such a breeze to maintain and clean. It's bulletbroof for our messy tendencies.

I really need to take some updated (read: clean) pictures. I've posted these pics a zillion times, but here you go:

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clipped on: 08.15.2013 at 11:21 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2013 at 11:22 pm

RE: Flooring help please . . . (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: twn85 on 03.25.2012 at 10:32 am in Kitchens Forum

I just put down a wood look tile throughout my main living areas; kitchen, living room, foyer, hallway. And put hardwood in the adjacent bedrooms. I can tell you that I'm thrilled with my decision. We are a hard on our floors and that's exactly what drove our decision to put down tile. It looks beautiful, and we don't have to worry about spills, scratches, or dents. Both the tile and the hardwood was installed over existing oak flooring. It was much easier to go over it than to rip it up only to reinforce the subfloor with plywood. Anyways, I'll stop rambling. Here are some pictures, first one is just the tile, second shows the transition from tile to wood. Kitchen isn't up yet, but we will also have white cabinets.
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clipped on: 08.15.2013 at 11:20 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2013 at 11:21 pm

Agent Interview Questions for sellers

posted by: roselvr on 11.12.2007 at 05:35 pm in Buying and Selling Homes Forum

I typed this up when I was looking to change real estate agents. This one is specific to me as a seller living close to a military base. You should be able to copy and paste it into Word pad.

You might also want to change the order of the questions after doing an interview. I've found that we start out by talking, I then fill in as we talk. By the time we're done talking, most questions were answered

I used the questions after doing my own research, there were things that were important to me as a seller, and I used the questions to figure out the difference between agents that I liked.

Edit for your own use...

Agent Questions

Name - ______________________________________________________________________ ______________

Office Name ______________________________________________________________________ __________

Office Phone ______________________________________________________________________ __________

1) How many homes have you sold in my area? ___________________________________________________
Do you cover other towns / zip codes? YES NO
Explain: ______________________________________________________________________ _____________

______________________________________________________________________ ____________________

2) How much is your commission? _____________________________________________________________

3) What percentage do you give a buyers agent if you do not bring a buyer in? ______________________________________________________________________ ____________________

4) Is it negotiable if you bring a buyer? ______________________________________________________________________ _____________________

5) What if I bring in a buyer with advertising I do? __________________________________________________

6) How long is the contract going to be? 3 months ____________ 6 months__________

7) If I am not happy for any reason will I be able to break the contract? YES_____ NO_____

8) How long will it take for the contract to be voided? _______________________________________________

9) What is the proceedure that needs to be followed if I am not happy? ________________________________

______________________________________________________________________ ____________________

______________________________________________________________________ ____________________

10) Where do you rank on the MLS? ___________________________________________________________

11) Where do you rank on the office team? ______________________________________________________

12) Do you work with the military?______ Yes _______ No ___________

13) Are you or your office listed at base housing? ________Yes _______No__________

14) How long have you been in the business? ____________________________________________________

*Note - if the agent is new, ask about their background....
Do they have marketing knowledge / training? ___________________________________________________
Do they have web site training? _______________________________________________________________

15) Are you full time, part time, do you work another job? ___________________________________________

16) How many houses a year do you sell__________how many do you list______________________________

17) Do you do OPEN HOUSEs or AGENTs OPEN HOUSES / LUNCHEONs? YES / NO

______________________________________________________________________ _____________________

18) If we have an open house, when should I expect feedback? ________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________ _____________________

19) Will the feedback be a phone call or email? ____________________________________________________

20) How often will you touch base with me to give me information about our listing?

______________________________________________________________________ _____________________

21) Do you have your own web site, in addition to the agent link on the office web site? YES / NO

Web site URL ______________________________________________________________________ _________

22) How much of your business comes from the web site? ________________________%

23) Do you use email? YES ______ NO ________

24) Do you pay for enhanced listings with multiple pictures on Realtor.com? ____YES____ NO _______________

25) Do you do featured listings on realtor.com? YES / NO _____________________________________________

26) What kind of advertising do you do and where? __________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________ _____________________

27) Do you advertise in the newspaper? If so which ones? ______________________________________________________________________ _____________________

______________________________________________________________________ _____________________

28) Do you advertise price drops in the paper (Sunday only)? YES / NO

29) Do you advertise open houses in the paper (Friday � Sunday)? YES / NO

30) Do you use an info box? YES / NO

31) Do you have an assistant? YES / NO

32) If an assistant: who is the one I would be dealing with for questions, feedback and such?
Explain assistants role

______________________________________________________________________ _____________________

33) If I need to speak with the listing agent for something, how is that handled?

______________________________________________________________________ _____________________

______________________________________________________________________ _____________________

34) When an offer comes in, who does the negotiating, the agent or the assistant?

35) How much would you list our house for? _______________________________________________________

36) Who takes your photos? ____________________________________________________________________

37) Would you consider using a profession photographer for photos? YES / NO

38) Do you use virtual Tours? YES / NO

39) Do you use a stager? YES / NO

40) Do you feel there is something we can do to make the house more desirable to sell?

______________________________________________________________________ _____________________

______________________________________________________________________ _____________________

41) Anything else you would like me to know?

______________________________________________________________________ _____________________

______________________________________________________________________ _____________________

______________________________________________________________________ _____________________
______________________________________________________________________ _____________________
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clipped on: 08.01.2013 at 10:37 pm    last updated on: 08.01.2013 at 10:37 pm

RE: How to display crystal glassware and china? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: nanny2a on 02.15.2009 at 11:18 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

The lights I used have an adhesive velcro stick up strip that attaches to the cabinet and are battery operated push-on, push-off. I bought them online, but recently saw similar ones at Home Depot in the lighting department.

I don't have many glasses, but do have many cut glass bowls and serving dishes. Love the way everyone has theirs displayed, and love those half moon shapes of Cherigw!

I'm not crazy about the fish platters on the tops of mine, but they are so big I have no where else to put them...lol! Perhaps Goodwill for the pike, but we do use the larger Mexican pottery one a lot during the summer.
DR sideboard

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clipped on: 07.12.2013 at 06:30 pm    last updated on: 07.12.2013 at 06:31 pm

RE: How to display crystal glassware and china? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: cherigw on 02.14.2009 at 09:06 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I have some place settings displayed as well as major serving pieces and crystal. The "stacks" of plates, et cet are in the cubbies on either side of the drawers below.

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clipped on: 07.12.2013 at 06:30 pm    last updated on: 07.12.2013 at 06:30 pm

RE: Tired, weepy & HOT... menopause :-( (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: megz on 10.16.2007 at 09:57 pm in Texas Gardening Forum

This works, take it from some-one who had a total hysterectomy, couldn't take HRT, almost had nervous breakdown. Hot flashes every 20 min. This is a miracle.
Hot Flash Cocktail.
400 Vit.e
500-600 mg.calcium Citrate
200 mg. magnesium citrate
500 mg.vit.C bioflavoniods
omega 3 fatty acids
5hrt..(miracle) I get Natrol brand walmart.One a day
It took 5 weeks to work.I feel great. Hot Flashes gone.

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clipped on: 06.30.2013 at 02:54 am    last updated on: 06.30.2013 at 02:54 am

RE: I don't think I can do this any more (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: honeybunny2 on 03.17.2012 at 08:50 pm in Texas Gardening Forum

I do not weed the lawn, I just spray it with the water sprayer and Wipeout when it get 70 degrees. It kills only weeds, not my carpet grass. Just follow the directions. The name is misleading, when you read about it, it tells you it just kills the weeds and not the grass. A nursery in Rockport told us about it, we were scared to use it at first because of its name. We only tried it on a small part of our yard, after 7 days, the dollar weed and all the grass stickers were dead. It is wonderful, we have been using it since 2003. Just use it on your lawn, not in flowerbeds. Alot of flowers and herbs are actaully weeds. Barbra

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clipped on: 06.07.2013 at 09:54 pm    last updated on: 06.07.2013 at 09:54 pm

Yippee! Backsplash paralysis has ended well...

posted by: Momto3kiddos on 06.04.2013 at 12:06 am in Kitchens Forum

I did not have a hard time choosing anything for our new house until it was time for the backsplash. I had even already described myself as a "granite girl" not a "backsplash girl" when I started shopping for tile, but in reality, finding the right look, color, pattern and feel was much harder than I expected. Then a weekend in Chicago shopping at all of their fabulous tile places and I was utterly confused. Eventually I found the right tile... Pratt and Larson 3x6" subway laid in herringbone pattern. After waiting a month for it to arrive, I told the tile guy that I wanted it in herringbone on a 45. He had a few sq ft up when I walked in and it was run vertically and horizontally, so. He pulled it down. Then I laid it out on the counter to show him what I wanted. I walked around the house making a punch list, then came back to see a vertically running herringbone where the visual zig zag was top to bottom, so I asked him to change it once again. It is now fully installed and I am thrilled with it! I thought you guys might like to take a peek. I will post full kitchen pics once my new pendants are installed. Thanks for all of your feedback along the way.
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clipped on: 06.07.2013 at 12:45 pm    last updated on: 06.07.2013 at 12:45 pm

RE: ? on crown molding and cabinets to the ceiling (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: potterstreet on 06.05.2012 at 01:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

If I am reading this correctly, we had a similar issue recently. The crown moulding which came with our Kraftmaid cabinets would not fit with any crown moulding we could find so our very adept carpenter made some transitions.

There was even an issue with one of the cabinets not opening with the transition so we finagled it - we're very happy with the way it works. He did a nice job.

I love the way crown looks in any kitchen. It finishes it beautifully. Our house is 1890 late Victorian and I wanted the kitchen to reflect that. It finishes it beautifully.

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clipped on: 06.06.2013 at 01:08 pm    last updated on: 06.06.2013 at 01:09 pm

Custom Drawer Inserts

posted by: meyersdvm on 06.05.2013 at 12:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

I learned about Wood Hollow's custom drawer inserts from this forum. I ordered from their eBay site last Wednesday and my drawer inserts arrived very well packaged yesterday.

I love that they match my wood drawer interiors and leave no wasted space. They are well made and very reasonably priced at $35 each for cutlery and utensil inserts and $25 for a fluted spice insert. My spice drawer is in a bank of base cabs that are only 18 inches in depth, so standard inserts would not have worked.

Spice drawer
Utensil drawer
Cutlery drawer

Here is a link that might be useful: Cutlery Insert

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clipped on: 06.05.2013 at 11:13 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2013 at 11:13 pm

RE: Sealing Granite (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: srosen on 12.09.2012 at 06:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

White granites are generally very porous.
They can be a problem to seal.
Some even consider some granites like kasmir white technically impossible to seal. In some cases that may be true. There are some basic guidelines for sealing a stone surface. Do the water test-puddle up a couple of palm sized puddles of water and let them sit for 10-15 minutes. Then wipe away the excess and see if it has left a darker mark. If it has you know your surface is absorbant.
If it is really porous and most of the water was absorbed you know you have a sponge for a countertop. Really- not the end of the world but thats why the best stone adventures start and end well with an experienced fabricator. One who knows stone and can guide and educate the consumer. So if you do have a porous countertop you should be educated before attemting to seal it or hiring someone to seal it.
Here is what sealing is all about.
Know how porous or not your surface is.
Use a quality product.Impregnator sealers for stone is the product you want solvent or water based. Yes there is a difference but thats another conversation.
Apply(use paper towel) it in manegable sections and let it load on the stone for 5-15 minutes keeping it wet add more sealer if it absorbs into the stone.
Dont let the sealer ever dry on the surface.
Then remove any excess sealer from the surface.
Yes thats right take any excess off. Then overlap the areas you just did and repeat the process until the entire surface has been sealed.
On very absorbant surfaces the stone will get darker -in some cases lots darker. Dont worry thats temporary and once the carrier evaporates it will return back to its normal color and shade.
Always test a spare piece however just to be safe.
If you have a really porous surface repeat the entire application making sure to never let any excess sealer dry on the surface.
So even if your stone isnt that porous or has been resined at the point of processing(resining-another conversation)
You can still apply a sealer if it makes you feel better.
Just be sure to use a small amount and wipe away any excess before it dries. Just take into account if you really need to impact the enviroment and if you really need to seal.
Impregnators live below the surface.
So no matter how many coats you have applied in one day to me it is still one application. You need to understand the sealer needs to cure which takes a minimum of 24 hours.
So let it do its thing and then in 24 hours do the water test again. You will see that it is less absorbant then your first test. If the water beads up and doesnt absorb your done. If it is still absorbing repeat the process and test 24 hours later.
Repeat if needed.
Just remember no sealer will ever be 100 percent bulletproof so try to clean spills up as soon as possible. The definition of a sealer is this.
Sealers temporarily inhibit the intrusion of staining agents from entering the stone. Sealers are getting better and protecting longer as the chemists develop better product. There are some products on the market now to protect marble from etching. Yes they have their pros and cons for sure.
They are worth looking into however as they arent for everyone.
srosen

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clipped on: 05.30.2013 at 02:11 pm    last updated on: 05.30.2013 at 02:11 pm

RE: Winter dreaming about my spring project (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: missingtheobvious on 01.14.2012 at 10:37 pm in Landscape Design Forum

drtygrl, how about starting a new hydrangea -- or even more than one -- from cuttings?

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Fish sculptures, wbonesteel -- you forgot the fish sculptures! One of them balanced atop a thin metal stake, as if he's jumping out of the water.

Colorful plastic dragonflies, swooping over the "water" on metal wires (about the gauge of stiffish floral-wire stems, so they'd move in the breeze).

I just wish trailing rosemary would survive the winter here in zone 7....

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clipped on: 05.24.2013 at 10:34 pm    last updated on: 05.24.2013 at 10:34 pm

RE: Most useful Kitchen Cabinet add- ons (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: annkh on 05.20.2013 at 08:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Carol, the pullouts above my fridge will be like drawers on their sides. When pulled out, they will be accessed from the side. I plan to store cereal boxes on one side, and paper products (paper towels, napkins, tissues) on the other.

It will be sort of like this (except mine won't have a shelf above).
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clipped on: 05.21.2013 at 02:21 am    last updated on: 05.21.2013 at 02:21 am

RE: How do you wash your dishes, pans, and pots? (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: youngdeb on 04.25.2013 at 09:19 am in Kitchens Forum

I put most everything in the DW, but there are still some things that I don't put in that we use regularly...super tall waterbottles for the kids' sports, cast iron, enormous Le Crueset pots, and wooden spoons.

I couldn't find a drying rack that I liked...I wanted something really sleek but that raised things off the counter a bit so they'd dry from all sides (can't get that with a towel).

So I took a cooling rack and dipped the feet in Plasti-Dip so it wouldn't scratch the counter. Works beautifully.

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clipped on: 04.25.2013 at 06:44 pm    last updated on: 04.25.2013 at 06:45 pm

RE: How do you store your pots and pans? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: imrainey on 11.07.2007 at 05:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

And aesthetics. I simply prefer the look of doors to drawers. And I can have them both so why not?! ;>

But your post reminds me, I had drawers in my baking center that spanned the length of the counter. When I needed one of the staples stored in them, I had to step away from the counter to open the drawer. That got old very fast and I've often wondered if people with their pot drawer under their cooktops find the same.
Tricking out the baking center

I had my cabinet maker put in an upright and split the drawers in two. Works sooooo much better because I only have to step to one side to open a narrower drawer.
Split baking drawers

Try that if you have expensive decorative drawer fronts! ;>

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clipped on: 02.15.2013 at 12:40 pm    last updated on: 02.15.2013 at 12:40 pm

RE: help with country french cottage look (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: oakleyok on 01.22.2013 at 07:41 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Beautiful home. If those were my windows I'd add checked curtains(panels) in a heartbeat, and have lace cafe curtains going halfway up. Plaids and checks are the epitome of french country. They're the icing on a french country cake. lol

Look at the link below to give you an idea. You can use different size checks.

Here is a link that might be useful: French country checks

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clipped on: 01.22.2013 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 01.22.2013 at 12:19 pm

RE: Easy to sew valance directions (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: my3dogs on 07.18.2008 at 07:52 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Hi, lyban...hmmmm, I would not use the whole 54" width of the fabric for a window that narrow. You do want to have some 'gathering' at the top across the width, but that is too much (IMO) for that size window.

I just measured my half bath window width. From outside to outside trim, it is 36" wide. I used the full width of the 54" fabric on that. So, doing the math, my fabric was 18" wider than the overall width of my window. Is the 22" the entire width of your window including trim? If yes, my suggestion would be to have the width of your fabric approx. 38" - 40" to have it the same ratio as mine was to start.

Hi, tinam61, I actually buy a tad more fabric to start due to the fact that it may be cut unevenly in the store. So, I might buy 1 3/8 yards. If I am making my ties from the same fabric, I'll buy 1 1/2 yards to start. I am very careful to have my starting piece of fabric be the exact same length on the left and right sides.

BUT, for the ties, you need to see if your ties can be cut across the WIDTH of your fabric, or do you need to buy a longer piece for the ties, so the pattern on them will be correct? If it's solid, plaid or dots, it doesn't matter. But if it is a print with a definite up and down, you need to see how the pattern runs on the fabric.

In these with the striped fabric ties, the stripe ran the length of the fabric, not the width, so I bought about 1/2 yd of the striped fabric and cut 2 pieces lengthwise for EACH tie, and carefully stitched them together end to end, matching the stripe, so it ended up looking like one long piece of fabric.

I hope this all makes sense. It does as I write it, but I have made several valances and used many different fabrics.

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Someone last night on the HGTV boards was asking how to make this valance that she saw online. Isn't it beautiful? It just shows what you can do with the right fabrics and trim. I gave her my directions, because even though I didn't make this one, it's exactly the same 'pattern' as mine!

Once you become comfortable with the directions, you will really enjoy finding great fabric combinations to make YOUR custom valances! The possibilities are endless!
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clipped on: 01.08.2013 at 05:15 pm    last updated on: 01.08.2013 at 05:15 pm

Easy to sew valance directions

posted by: my3dogs on 07.17.2008 at 08:01 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Hi everyone!

Here are the directions for the valances that you saw in the post linked below. They ARE EASY - but the directions are long, because I am trying to give you enough detail, even if you are a beginner. Read them all the way through so you understand them, and ask any questions you may have. If you are a real novice, you may want to make a sample using just muslin, or other inexpensive fabric, til you get the hang of it.

This is a no-pattern valance that I started making last summer. It requires just straight stitching. My windows are generally about 50" (more or less)in height. If your windows are very short or very tall, you may want to vary the length of the fabric you use. I would say to err on the 'buy more' side though, so they don't look skimpy. The fullness adds richness.

I generally use 1 1/4 yards of 54" wide home dec fabric to make the valance. You will need an equal amount of lining fabric. If you choose to put trim on the bottom (it adds a lot to the treatment, IMO) buy 1 1/2 yards of trim to make sure you have enough to go across the length of your 54" wide fabric. If your fabric is wider than 54", buy enough trim to cover its width.

Cut your valance fabric and lining to equal lengths. I always measure the side edges of my fabric and mark the length before cutting. It may have not been cut straight at the store, and you want to be sure that your left side is the same length as your right side.

Pin the two rectangles of fabric together on all sides, with the RIGHT (front) sides of the fabrics inside, facing each other. Before putting the fabrics together, I mark lightly on the back which is the TOP of the print (if using a print) and which is the bottom, so your print will end up right side up!

Depending on the type of rod you plan to use for the valance, you need to leave openings on each side that will become your rod pocket. Continental rods (the flat wide plain ones) need a 4" rod pocket. If you use a decorative rod, with finals on the end that screw off, I would recommend making your rod pocket 2" wide. For a small tension rod, I'd make the rod pocket 1.5" wide. You don't want to force your fabric onto the rod - allow room to make it easy for you.

Measure down from the TOP of your pinned together fabric, and make a light mark with pencil on each side, the size of your chosen rod pocket, plus 1/2". That 1/2" is going to be the width of your top seam. You'll be making a mark on the left and right sides 4 1/2" down from the top if you use a Continental rod, for example. Stitch from these marks down each side to the bottom, using a 1/2" seam.

You'll need to leave an opening in the top or bottom to turn your valance inside out when you're done stitching.

I'd suggest a 4" - 6" opening for turning. If your rod pocket openings are 4", you don't need to leave another opening, you can use them to turn it inside out.

Mark the opening you need to leave, then stitch across the top and bottom edges, using a 1/2" seam, leaving your opening...well...OPEN!

Clip your fabric corners off OUTSIDE of your stitching. This is just a small triangle of fabric from each corner. This will allow you to get nice sharp edges on your corners when your turn the valance right side out, as it reduces the bulk of fabric there.

Turn your valance right side out, pulling it through the opening you left. I use a wooden chop stick to push the fabric gently at the corners to make them nice and square, once I have turned mine right side out. Don't push too hard, or you may poke a hole through your valance! At this point, you should have a lined rectangle of fabric, with rod pocket openings near the top of each side.

Close the opening you left for turning, either by folding and pressing the edges in and hand stitching it closed, or use 'stitch witchery' type of fusing tape to do it. You can also sew it closed with your sewing machine, but you want to do it right at the edge. You want to make this closure as 'invisible' as possible, so I always use fusible tape.

Carefully iron your valance. Use your fingers to work the edges, so that you have your seam right in the middle of each edge, so you don't see the front fabric on the backside, and you don't see the lining from the front.

Now, to stitch the rod pocket. You will be making one row of stitching across the front of your fabric from side to side.
Measure down from the top edge, so you have the same length opening on each side. The size of the opening you left on each side was determined above by the type of rod you're using.

You can lightly pencil on the line that you need to stitch across, or do what I do - Place the fabric on the sewing machine, and put the needle down on the place where you'll start stitching. Take a 4" (approx) length of masking tape, and lay it against the upper edge of the fabric, to the right of the needle, and stick it to the sewing machine base. You can use this tape edge as a guide to hold the top edge of your fabric against as you stitch across. It helps you make a straight, even rod pocket. My sewing machine has tape on it for all different widths of rod pockets!

If you chose to put trim on the bottom of your valance, do it now. I use 'Aleen's OK To Wash-It' fabric glue that you can get at WalMart or a fabric store. If you use glue, just follow the directions on the bottle to glue your trim evenly to the front bottom of your valance. I lay my valance on my kitchen island, and let it set overnight, while the glue dries. You can also stitch your trim on, either by hand or by machine. I prefer the glue, because you see no stitching on the back side. (I'm anal.)

Now to make the ties. You can simply buy ribbon (such as grosgrain) or use purchased cord (see my dining room silk ones in the link) or make them out of fabric. Use either the same fabric or a coordinating one.

Here, you first need to decide if you are going to tie your valance up with bows, or do knots. Bows take longer ties.

Allow yourself a MINIMUM of 36" long ties. You can always cut them shorter if necessary, but you can't make them longer. I suggest hanging your valance up and using string to tie them up temporarily to see how long you need to make your ties. (It's longer than you think!)

Cut your strips of fabric approx 4" wide and the length you have decided on above for your ties. Fold and pin the strips in half the the short way, so you have a long strip of fabric that is 2" wide. Make sure the right sides are together, (inside) because you are going to turn them inside out after stitching.

Stitch along the pinned edge of each strip, about 1/4" from the edge. Now the fun part - turn those narrow strips inside out. My chop stick comes in handy for this, but use whatever method you choose to accomplish this.

Press the ties just as you did the valance rectangle, making sure your seam is even on the edge. I fold in the raw ends and use my fusible tape to close them, but you can machine stitch them closed or do it by hand - Your choice. Your valance is done!

Put it on your rod, using the rod pocket. Hang it in your window. Now, take the ties, and simply drape them over the rod on each side, having half of the tie fabric strip hanging in front, and the other half of the tie hanging behind the valance.

Now, gather up one side of the valance in your hands, and reach behind it it grab the dangling tie in back. Tie up the valance, by tying the front and back pieces of the tie together, either in a knot or a bow. Do the same with the other side, making sure your ties on each side are tied up at the same length.

Now stand back and make sure your valance looks even at the bottom on each side. Use your hand to 'finger fold' and drape your fabric until the look is what you want.

You'll be surprised at what a difference it can make in the look by spacing your ties closer together, or moving them further apart on the rod. Also by tying the ties higher or lower...

This is where you need to play around until you get the look you want. On the HGTV message board, a woman made these and kept posting pics asking for advice - Higher? Lower? Move the ties apart or closer...It's really all up to you. Hers looked GREAT when she was done, and she was so pleased to have made her own custom valance. I hope you all feel the same way, if you try them!

Here is a link that might be useful: several shown here - all the same instructions

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clipped on: 01.08.2013 at 05:14 pm    last updated on: 01.08.2013 at 05:14 pm

RE: I also need the stainless steel sink cleaning trick (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: kaijutokusatsu on 12.23.2012 at 05:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is my clipping from sherrilynn:
about any stainless steel sink. I recently had a huge compliment from my brother, a builder of high end homes. He was very impressed at how good my sink always looks. He is not a fan at ALL with SS. He prefers porcelain, which chips.

I asked him why he was so impressed with my sink and hates SS? It was because he has had to replace multiple high end sinks before closing because a workman or someone would have used a new homeowners SS sink and caused a 'scratch' in the bottom of the sink. The new homeowners would insist on a brand new sink before they would close.We all know that we can tolerate the damage that we do to our stuff, but not anyone else! When you spend well over a $1,000 to $1,800 for a sink, of COURSE you want it to be unblemished!

Well, I told him my 'secret' to keeping my 12" deep single basin Franke sink looking good. I've used this 'method' on ALL of my sinks and I just love it! My sink glows because of the 'patina' that it now has...and yours can, too. The finish looks better each time you use my method, too.

I use my sink! I also have a large family that I cook for and use some commercial size, heavy pans. Guests sometimes want to help in the kitchen, or teens, and they bang up the bottom, scratching the sink, and it will look just awful when they're done. They always apologize because they think they've ruined my sink. Never fear. I can 'fix' it in as little as 3 minutes from start to finish.

I've now trained my teens on how to help me maintain a good looking sink. AND if they scratch it, they restore it! It's that simple.

Here's what I do. About every other day, I use Bar Keepers Friend and one of the green scrubby pads that you can buy just about anywhere. It will keep average use to your sink 'maintained' between 'restoration' cleanings.

When there are scuffs and deeper scratches in the sink, I use sandpaper to wet-sand the metal in different grades of paper to restore the sinks. I prefer the black 'wet or dry' sandpaper by Norton that you buy at HD. I already have about 3" squares in multiple grades already cut out and in a baggy under my sink, so I'm ready when I need to 'do this'.

I start with about 150 grit working on the problem areas when I get to them, then work up to at least a 400 grit. I use small circular pattern and overlap all of my work. I never just 'rub' a scuff or scratch in a straight pattern; I always blend my work.

I start in the furthest back left corner and work across the back of the sink moving left to right, just as you would work if you were writing on lined paper. I do the entire sink bottom, then move to the sides. I start with 150 grit paper, then change to 220, then 320, then 400. I rinse the sink after each grit paper is used. Sometimes I use a little soap or BKF depending on my needs so I can move faster with the paper. Once you try it, you will understand what I mean.

I finish off with a good soapy rinse with a rag, then apply a 'finish' of Franke Inox cleaner or a wiping coat of vegetable oil. I have even used Rain-X to help repel spots. I'm just out of it right now and have been using up products I have under the sink. I use 'whatever' to just help the sink repel water right down the drain a.s.a.p..

My brother now had one of his guys using my method on their Franke sinks before final walk thru before closing on a new home. Guess what? They're not having to replace sinks anymore.

After you clean your sink a few times, your sink will start to gain a beautiful patina and smoothness to the finish and you will start to love stainless steel. I also use this method on my $10,000 Thermador Range top. It glows. I just love it.

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clipped on: 01.02.2013 at 12:04 pm    last updated on: 01.02.2013 at 12:04 pm

Finished Kitchen! White, Arabesque, Labradorite Multi-Color.

posted by: mommyatlaw on 10.03.2012 at 10:39 am in Kitchens Forum

At long last, we have completed our kitchen! This is a gut and remodel. We removed several walls, expanded into the formal dining room and updated the surrounding rooms. The formal dining room has now joined the formal living room. Many thanks to the patient and resourceful GW'ers. I will post "lived in" pictures when the kitchen has been, er, lived in! Here are the pertinent details:

Contractor: Charanza Contracting, Inc. Thank you, Kenneth, Jace and Mark!

Cabinets: Accent Cabinets in Sherwin Williams Snowbound. Thank you, Tammy!

Paint: Sherwin Williams Snowbound on Cabinets, Trim and Ceiling. Full Moon on Kitchen and Breakfast Walls. Blaize on Family Room Walls.

Granite Counters: Labradorite Multi-Color (Antolini Luigi Signature Stone Collection by Master Tile). Dreamy. I stare at it every day.

Backsplash: MT&S White Beveled Arabesque. Thank you, Beekeeperswife!

Appliances: 36" Gas Range, 30" Electric Oven, 30" Warming Drawer, Dish Drawers
(DCS/Fisher & Paykel); 36" Side by Side Fridge (Electrolux); Wine Fridge and Beverage Center (Summit); Microwave (LG Studio Series). So far so good, though too soon to say.

Sink: 40" Double Bowl Fireclay Sink (Alfi). As lovely and giant as I had hoped.

Faucet: Jaclo Steam Valve Original. Love the look of the faucet. Unfortunately, the plumber had to take it apart 3 times in order to achieve a respectable flow.

Hardware: Cliffside Polished Nickel (on Painted Cabinets); Atlas Legacy Crystal (on Stained Cabinets. From HardwareHut. Excellent vendor.

UCL: Kichler Xenon

Pendants: Benson Polished Nickel from Restoration Hardware.

Breakfast Fixture: Access Lighting Lacey Laser Cut Flush Mount.

Pantry Fixture: Trans Globe Lighting Crystal Sparkle Flush Mount.

Floors: Mannington Chesapeake Hickory in Cherry Spice.

Ceiling Fans: The Dagny by Matthews Fan Co. in Brushed Nickel.

On Order: Regal Bar Stools with Back in Charcoal Zodiac (a la The Fonz); LL Bean Chenille Braided Rugs in Vintage Multi.

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clipped on: 10.04.2012 at 06:22 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2012 at 06:23 pm

RE: blue gray paint color (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: kellienoelle on 08.27.2012 at 11:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

We painted our kitchen in SW Silverplate. It is very much a true gray without any obvious blue, green, beige, or purple undertones. We also had a dozen gray swatches and discovered that most read "othercolorish-gray" so were happiest with the Silverplate. Here is how it looks in a couple different areas with varying light

Nook so no natural light
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With overhead lights on
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And in the eat in area so with natural light (or as much as their was on a dreary day in December when we originally painted
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clipped on: 08.28.2012 at 07:16 pm    last updated on: 08.28.2012 at 07:17 pm

Thank you for the outdoor sink idea . . . .

posted by: rjr220 on 05.03.2010 at 08:57 am in Kitchens Forum

When I started lurking, someone posted a kitchen -- I believe it was a DIY, oak mission, maybe a foursquare?? And I remember their old kitchen sink with a frame out on the deck.

If you are still on the forum, thank you for including that picture. I told my carpenter that I wanted my old sink outside -- it has been marvelous. True, I keep reaching for the garbage disposal switch, and I only have cold water (I fill a basin with hot water from inside), but I love this baby. After the kitchen is done it's being moved to an hidden area to be used as a garden sink. My carpenter found 2 old sawhorses that fit the sink perfectly.

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Please excuse the garden and yard. I've somehow fallen behind in yard work . . . . wonder why.

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clipped on: 08.28.2012 at 04:10 pm    last updated on: 08.28.2012 at 04:10 pm

RE: Worried about Undermount Stainless Steel sink (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: azstoneconsulting on 07.25.2011 at 10:22 am in Kitchens Forum

There are all kinds of "techniques" that guys use -

This is for eveyone reading this - (not just SuzieQ)

Stainless steel sinks that are installed with 2CM thick stone are usually supported from underneath by the plywood subtop layer (I use 5/8" thick ACX grade) The sink is "sandwiched" in between the the plywood and the stone - the sink rests on it's flat flange and holds itself up. I could get in the sink (using this method) and stand in the sink all day long and the sink will not fall down!!!

On 3CM - there is no plywood used as the subtop, and THIS is wjere a lot of guys "just don't get it" (to quote Dr. Evil.....) They seem to think that if they just "epoxy" or "silicone" the sink flange to the underside of the stone - eveything will be OK - Welll, I am here to tell you - No Virginia - It's NOT "OK" ......

an adhesive ALONE is NOT ENOUGH TO HOLD THE WEIGHT OF THE SINK for an extended length of time - like say..... 2 to 5 years

In 3CM applications - clips that can be MECHANICALLY ATTACHED to the stone can be used, Or.. WHat I prefer (and have been using for years without failure (like around the last 15 - ever since I saw these - I started using them)
is the "Sink Setter"

The Sink Setter is a metal frame work that attaches to the cabinet and supports the sink unit from underneath. The sink does not ever fall, the silicone bead between the stone and the sink acts strictly as a waterproofing gasket (as it really only should be) and the Sink Setter supports the weight of the sink, the garbage disposal and the associated plumbing - ALL exerting downward force on the sink bowl.......

Sink Setters can and should be used on all CAST IRON and COMPOSITE sinks as well - not just limited to SS......

If your fabricator wants you to accept sinks that are merely "glued" to the underside of the stone (using epoxy or silicone - I'd find a new fabricator, or insist that he uses Sink Setters on your project..

BTW - This is NOT a shameless brazen plug for the Sink Setter - I receive no compensation or benefits from sharing this with all of you.

AND..... (not trying to be self promoting) As an active Fabrcator for the last 26 going on 27 years, I HAVE been using them (for at least) over 15 years, and have NEVER had a sink fall - LOT'S of HAPPY CUSTOMERS though...... so consider what I'm sharing here as food for thought

hth

kevin

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clipped on: 08.17.2012 at 10:32 pm    last updated on: 08.17.2012 at 10:32 pm

RE: Stainless Steel Cleaner (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: door1 on 08.17.2012 at 09:42 am in Kitchens Forum

Bayes Stainless Steel Cleaner/Protectant is the best that I have ever used. I buy it at a local funiture/appliance store but you can order it online.

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clipped on: 08.17.2012 at 09:00 pm    last updated on: 08.17.2012 at 09:01 pm