It will be sort of like this (except mine won't have a shelf above).

I couldn't find a drying rack that I liked...I wanted something really sleek but that raised things off the counter a bit so they'd dry from all sides (can't get that with a towel).

So I took a cooling rack and dipped the feet in Plasti-Dip so it wouldn't scratch the counter. Works beautifully.

But your post reminds me, I had drawers in my baking center that spanned the length of the counter. When I needed one of the staples stored in them, I had to step away from the counter to open the drawer. That got old very fast and I've often wondered if people with their pot drawer under their cooktops find the same.

I had my cabinet maker put in an upright and split the drawers in two. Works sooooo much better because I only have to step to one side to open a narrower drawer.

Try that if you have expensive decorative drawer fronts! ;>

Look at the link below to give you an idea. You can use different size checks.

Here is a link that might be useful: French country checks

I just measured my half bath window width. From outside to outside trim, it is 36" wide. I used the full width of the 54" fabric on that. So, doing the math, my fabric was 18" wider than the overall width of my window. Is the 22" the entire width of your window including trim? If yes, my suggestion would be to have the width of your fabric approx. 38" - 40" to have it the same ratio as mine was to start.

Hi, tinam61, I actually buy a tad more fabric to start due to the fact that it may be cut unevenly in the store. So, I might buy 1 3/8 yards. If I am making my ties from the same fabric, I'll buy 1 1/2 yards to start. I am very careful to have my starting piece of fabric be the exact same length on the left and right sides.

BUT, for the ties, you need to see if your ties can be cut across the WIDTH of your fabric, or do you need to buy a longer piece for the ties, so the pattern on them will be correct? If it's solid, plaid or dots, it doesn't matter. But if it is a print with a definite up and down, you need to see how the pattern runs on the fabric.

In these with the striped fabric ties, the stripe ran the length of the fabric, not the width, so I bought about 1/2 yd of the striped fabric and cut 2 pieces lengthwise for EACH tie, and carefully stitched them together end to end, matching the stripe, so it ended up looking like one long piece of fabric.

I hope this all makes sense. It does as I write it, but I have made several valances and used many different fabrics.

Someone last night on the HGTV boards was asking how to make this valance that she saw online. Isn't it beautiful? It just shows what you can do with the right fabrics and trim. I gave her my directions, because even though I didn't make this one, it's exactly the same 'pattern' as mine!

Once you become comfortable with the directions, you will really enjoy finding great fabric combinations to make YOUR custom valances! The possibilities are endless!

Here are the directions for the valances that you saw in the post linked below. They ARE EASY - but the directions are long, because I am trying to give you enough detail, even if you are a beginner. Read them all the way through so you understand them, and ask any questions you may have. If you are a real novice, you may want to make a sample using just muslin, or other inexpensive fabric, til you get the hang of it.

This is a no-pattern valance that I started making last summer. It requires just straight stitching. My windows are generally about 50" (more or less)in height. If your windows are very short or very tall, you may want to vary the length of the fabric you use. I would say to err on the 'buy more' side though, so they don't look skimpy. The fullness adds richness.

I generally use 1 1/4 yards of 54" wide home dec fabric to make the valance. You will need an equal amount of lining fabric. If you choose to put trim on the bottom (it adds a lot to the treatment, IMO) buy 1 1/2 yards of trim to make sure you have enough to go across the length of your 54" wide fabric. If your fabric is wider than 54", buy enough trim to cover its width.

Cut your valance fabric and lining to equal lengths. I always measure the side edges of my fabric and mark the length before cutting. It may have not been cut straight at the store, and you want to be sure that your left side is the same length as your right side.

Pin the two rectangles of fabric together on all sides, with the RIGHT (front) sides of the fabrics inside, facing each other. Before putting the fabrics together, I mark lightly on the back which is the TOP of the print (if using a print) and which is the bottom, so your print will end up right side up!

Depending on the type of rod you plan to use for the valance, you need to leave openings on each side that will become your rod pocket. Continental rods (the flat wide plain ones) need a 4" rod pocket. If you use a decorative rod, with finals on the end that screw off, I would recommend making your rod pocket 2" wide. For a small tension rod, I'd make the rod pocket 1.5" wide. You don't want to force your fabric onto the rod - allow room to make it easy for you.

Measure down from the TOP of your pinned together fabric, and make a light mark with pencil on each side, the size of your chosen rod pocket, plus 1/2". That 1/2" is going to be the width of your top seam. You'll be making a mark on the left and right sides 4 1/2" down from the top if you use a Continental rod, for example. Stitch from these marks down each side to the bottom, using a 1/2" seam.

You'll need to leave an opening in the top or bottom to turn your valance inside out when you're done stitching.

I'd suggest a 4" - 6" opening for turning. If your rod pocket openings are 4", you don't need to leave another opening, you can use them to turn it inside out.

Mark the opening you need to leave, then stitch across the top and bottom edges, using a 1/2" seam, leaving your opening...well...OPEN!

Clip your fabric corners off OUTSIDE of your stitching. This is just a small triangle of fabric from each corner. This will allow you to get nice sharp edges on your corners when your turn the valance right side out, as it reduces the bulk of fabric there.

Turn your valance right side out, pulling it through the opening you left. I use a wooden chop stick to push the fabric gently at the corners to make them nice and square, once I have turned mine right side out. Don't push too hard, or you may poke a hole through your valance! At this point, you should have a lined rectangle of fabric, with rod pocket openings near the top of each side.

Close the opening you left for turning, either by folding and pressing the edges in and hand stitching it closed, or use 'stitch witchery' type of fusing tape to do it. You can also sew it closed with your sewing machine, but you want to do it right at the edge. You want to make this closure as 'invisible' as possible, so I always use fusible tape.

Carefully iron your valance. Use your fingers to work the edges, so that you have your seam right in the middle of each edge, so you don't see the front fabric on the backside, and you don't see the lining from the front.

Now, to stitch the rod pocket. You will be making one row of stitching across the front of your fabric from side to side.
Measure down from the top edge, so you have the same length opening on each side. The size of the opening you left on each side was determined above by the type of rod you're using.

You can lightly pencil on the line that you need to stitch across, or do what I do - Place the fabric on the sewing machine, and put the needle down on the place where you'll start stitching. Take a 4" (approx) length of masking tape, and lay it against the upper edge of the fabric, to the right of the needle, and stick it to the sewing machine base. You can use this tape edge as a guide to hold the top edge of your fabric against as you stitch across. It helps you make a straight, even rod pocket. My sewing machine has tape on it for all different widths of rod pockets!

If you chose to put trim on the bottom of your valance, do it now. I use 'Aleen's OK To Wash-It' fabric glue that you can get at WalMart or a fabric store. If you use glue, just follow the directions on the bottle to glue your trim evenly to the front bottom of your valance. I lay my valance on my kitchen island, and let it set overnight, while the glue dries. You can also stitch your trim on, either by hand or by machine. I prefer the glue, because you see no stitching on the back side. (I'm anal.)

Now to make the ties. You can simply buy ribbon (such as grosgrain) or use purchased cord (see my dining room silk ones in the link) or make them out of fabric. Use either the same fabric or a coordinating one.

Here, you first need to decide if you are going to tie your valance up with bows, or do knots. Bows take longer ties.

Allow yourself a MINIMUM of 36" long ties. You can always cut them shorter if necessary, but you can't make them longer. I suggest hanging your valance up and using string to tie them up temporarily to see how long you need to make your ties. (It's longer than you think!)

Cut your strips of fabric approx 4" wide and the length you have decided on above for your ties. Fold and pin the strips in half the the short way, so you have a long strip of fabric that is 2" wide. Make sure the right sides are together, (inside) because you are going to turn them inside out after stitching.

Stitch along the pinned edge of each strip, about 1/4" from the edge. Now the fun part - turn those narrow strips inside out. My chop stick comes in handy for this, but use whatever method you choose to accomplish this.

Press the ties just as you did the valance rectangle, making sure your seam is even on the edge. I fold in the raw ends and use my fusible tape to close them, but you can machine stitch them closed or do it by hand - Your choice. Your valance is done!

Put it on your rod, using the rod pocket. Hang it in your window. Now, take the ties, and simply drape them over the rod on each side, having half of the tie fabric strip hanging in front, and the other half of the tie hanging behind the valance.

Now, gather up one side of the valance in your hands, and reach behind it it grab the dangling tie in back. Tie up the valance, by tying the front and back pieces of the tie together, either in a knot or a bow. Do the same with the other side, making sure your ties on each side are tied up at the same length.

Now stand back and make sure your valance looks even at the bottom on each side. Use your hand to 'finger fold' and drape your fabric until the look is what you want.

You'll be surprised at what a difference it can make in the look by spacing your ties closer together, or moving them further apart on the rod. Also by tying the ties higher or lower...

This is where you need to play around until you get the look you want. On the HGTV message board, a woman made these and kept posting pics asking for advice - Higher? Lower? Move the ties apart or closer...It's really all up to you. Hers looked GREAT when she was done, and she was so pleased to have made her own custom valance. I hope you all feel the same way, if you try them!

Here is a link that might be useful: several shown here - all the same instructions

I asked him why he was so impressed with my sink and hates SS? It was because he has had to replace multiple high end sinks before closing because a workman or someone would have used a new homeowners SS sink and caused a 'scratch' in the bottom of the sink. The new homeowners would insist on a brand new sink before they would close.We all know that we can tolerate the damage that we do to our stuff, but not anyone else! When you spend well over a $1,000 to $1,800 for a sink, of COURSE you want it to be unblemished!

Well, I told him my 'secret' to keeping my 12" deep single basin Franke sink looking good. I've used this 'method' on ALL of my sinks and I just love it! My sink glows because of the 'patina' that it now has...and yours can, too. The finish looks better each time you use my method, too.

I use my sink! I also have a large family that I cook for and use some commercial size, heavy pans. Guests sometimes want to help in the kitchen, or teens, and they bang up the bottom, scratching the sink, and it will look just awful when they're done. They always apologize because they think they've ruined my sink. Never fear. I can 'fix' it in as little as 3 minutes from start to finish.

I've now trained my teens on how to help me maintain a good looking sink. AND if they scratch it, they restore it! It's that simple.

Here's what I do. About every other day, I use Bar Keepers Friend and one of the green scrubby pads that you can buy just about anywhere. It will keep average use to your sink 'maintained' between 'restoration' cleanings.

When there are scuffs and deeper scratches in the sink, I use sandpaper to wet-sand the metal in different grades of paper to restore the sinks. I prefer the black 'wet or dry' sandpaper by Norton that you buy at HD. I already have about 3" squares in multiple grades already cut out and in a baggy under my sink, so I'm ready when I need to 'do this'.

I start with about 150 grit working on the problem areas when I get to them, then work up to at least a 400 grit. I use small circular pattern and overlap all of my work. I never just 'rub' a scuff or scratch in a straight pattern; I always blend my work.

I start in the furthest back left corner and work across the back of the sink moving left to right, just as you would work if you were writing on lined paper. I do the entire sink bottom, then move to the sides. I start with 150 grit paper, then change to 220, then 320, then 400. I rinse the sink after each grit paper is used. Sometimes I use a little soap or BKF depending on my needs so I can move faster with the paper. Once you try it, you will understand what I mean.

I finish off with a good soapy rinse with a rag, then apply a 'finish' of Franke Inox cleaner or a wiping coat of vegetable oil. I have even used Rain-X to help repel spots. I'm just out of it right now and have been using up products I have under the sink. I use 'whatever' to just help the sink repel water right down the drain a.s.a.p..

My brother now had one of his guys using my method on their Franke sinks before final walk thru before closing on a new home. Guess what? They're not having to replace sinks anymore.

After you clean your sink a few times, your sink will start to gain a beautiful patina and smoothness to the finish and you will start to love stainless steel. I also use this method on my $10,000 Thermador Range top. It glows. I just love it.

kitchen

Contractor: Charanza Contracting, Inc. Thank you, Kenneth, Jace and Mark!

Cabinets: Accent Cabinets in Sherwin Williams Snowbound. Thank you, Tammy!

Paint: Sherwin Williams Snowbound on Cabinets, Trim and Ceiling. Full Moon on Kitchen and Breakfast Walls. Blaize on Family Room Walls.

Granite Counters: Labradorite Multi-Color (Antolini Luigi Signature Stone Collection by Master Tile). Dreamy. I stare at it every day.

Backsplash: MT&S White Beveled Arabesque. Thank you, Beekeeperswife!

Appliances: 36" Gas Range, 30" Electric Oven, 30" Warming Drawer, Dish Drawers
(DCS/Fisher & Paykel); 36" Side by Side Fridge (Electrolux); Wine Fridge and Beverage Center (Summit); Microwave (LG Studio Series). So far so good, though too soon to say.

Sink: 40" Double Bowl Fireclay Sink (Alfi). As lovely and giant as I had hoped.

Faucet: Jaclo Steam Valve Original. Love the look of the faucet. Unfortunately, the plumber had to take it apart 3 times in order to achieve a respectable flow.

Hardware: Cliffside Polished Nickel (on Painted Cabinets); Atlas Legacy Crystal (on Stained Cabinets. From HardwareHut. Excellent vendor.

UCL: Kichler Xenon

Pendants: Benson Polished Nickel from Restoration Hardware.

Breakfast Fixture: Access Lighting Lacey Laser Cut Flush Mount.

Pantry Fixture: Trans Globe Lighting Crystal Sparkle Flush Mount.

Floors: Mannington Chesapeake Hickory in Cherry Spice.

Ceiling Fans: The Dagny by Matthews Fan Co. in Brushed Nickel.

On Order: Regal Bar Stools with Back in Charcoal Zodiac (a la The Fonz); LL Bean Chenille Braided Rugs in Vintage Multi.

Nook so no natural light

With overhead lights on

And in the eat in area so with natural light (or as much as their was on a dreary day in December when we originally painted

If you are still on the forum, thank you for including that picture. I told my carpenter that I wanted my old sink outside -- it has been marvelous. True, I keep reaching for the garbage disposal switch, and I only have cold water (I fill a basin with hot water from inside), but I love this baby. After the kitchen is done it's being moved to an hidden area to be used as a garden sink. My carpenter found 2 old sawhorses that fit the sink perfectly.

Please excuse the garden and yard. I've somehow fallen behind in yard work . . . . wonder why.

This is for eveyone reading this - (not just SuzieQ)

Stainless steel sinks that are installed with 2CM thick stone are usually supported from underneath by the plywood subtop layer (I use 5/8" thick ACX grade) The sink is "sandwiched" in between the the plywood and the stone - the sink rests on it's flat flange and holds itself up. I could get in the sink (using this method) and stand in the sink all day long and the sink will not fall down!!!

On 3CM - there is no plywood used as the subtop, and THIS is wjere a lot of guys "just don't get it" (to quote Dr. Evil.....) They seem to think that if they just "epoxy" or "silicone" the sink flange to the underside of the stone - eveything will be OK - Welll, I am here to tell you - No Virginia - It's NOT "OK" ......

an adhesive ALONE is NOT ENOUGH TO HOLD THE WEIGHT OF THE SINK for an extended length of time - like say..... 2 to 5 years

In 3CM applications - clips that can be MECHANICALLY ATTACHED to the stone can be used, Or.. WHat I prefer (and have been using for years without failure (like around the last 15 - ever since I saw these - I started using them)
is the "Sink Setter"

The Sink Setter is a metal frame work that attaches to the cabinet and supports the sink unit from underneath. The sink does not ever fall, the silicone bead between the stone and the sink acts strictly as a waterproofing gasket (as it really only should be) and the Sink Setter supports the weight of the sink, the garbage disposal and the associated plumbing - ALL exerting downward force on the sink bowl.......

Sink Setters can and should be used on all CAST IRON and COMPOSITE sinks as well - not just limited to SS......

If your fabricator wants you to accept sinks that are merely "glued" to the underside of the stone (using epoxy or silicone - I'd find a new fabricator, or insist that he uses Sink Setters on your project..

BTW - This is NOT a shameless brazen plug for the Sink Setter - I receive no compensation or benefits from sharing this with all of you.

AND..... (not trying to be self promoting) As an active Fabrcator for the last 26 going on 27 years, I HAVE been using them (for at least) over 15 years, and have NEVER had a sink fall - LOT'S of HAPPY CUSTOMERS though...... so consider what I'm sharing here as food for thought

hth

kevin