Clippings by marti1

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: Looking for a sofa w/Crypton fabric. Ideas? (Follow-Up #40)

posted by: perseverator on 02.25.2008 at 09:40 pm in Furniture Forum

The post you're referring to can be found in the link below. Look at the "Best Answer".

Here is a link that might be useful: Closeout Crypton

NOTES:

Crypton fabric. Number to call for closeout Crypton fabric. ($2.00/yard)
clipped on: 10.04.2008 at 11:51 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2008 at 11:53 pm

RE: Looking for a sofa w/Crypton fabric. Ideas? (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: profitweb on 07.26.2008 at 12:38 pm in Furniture Forum

I just started reupholstering a sofa in white Crypton fabric. I'm a beginner upholsterer with a standard home sewing machine and I have to say the fabric is extremely easy to work with.

Joanne Fabrics offers a huge line of Crypton fabric in their special order upholstery section. They frequently have 50% off special order fabrics. I think I got my Crypton for around $15 a yard.

The total cost for my Crypton sofa so far is around $365 (used sofa cost $65 via Craisglist, Crypton Fabric $250, plus an additional $50 in cording, zipper foot, thread, needles, etc.). I still need to buy additional padding for the cushions because I want them to be stiffer. I'll post before & after pic's when I'm done.

I have tested it & have been pleased. However, I have to admit as I sew I'm worried about the WHITE fabric I am using. I'm afraid I made a bad choice in using white with 3 cats, 2 kids, & the dirt from country living that will threaten it. If this lasts I will be its biggest fan. nvoneacre, what color fabric is on your sofa? Is it a solid or a pattern?

Someone posted above that their cushions weren't deflating without unzipping them a little. On Crypton's site they say to use a breathable muslin on the zipper side to allow for breathing. It needs to be allowed to breath like leather.

Well, there is no doubt that this fabric is great!!! I'll keep you updated on my experience.

NOTES:

Crypton fabric
clipped on: 10.04.2008 at 11:49 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2008 at 11:49 pm

RE: Looking for a sofa w/Crypton fabric. Ideas? (Follow-Up #45)

posted by: juliatallmadge on 09.15.2008 at 12:03 pm in Furniture Forum

nvoneacre. thanks so much for responding! i will definitely check out the flexsteel site for a dealer in our area, great suggestion. would love to see a photo of your sofa. Here's some directions on how to post (cut/pasted from the kitchen forum). If that's too complicated, maybe you'd be willing to email me a photo? I'm so encouraged to hear that your sofa has been holding up so well...

How do I embed a picture in my post?
Your picture needs first to live somewhere on the Internet. Then you type the pictures Internet address into your message and the picture appears right in your post in the spot where you typed that address code. Heres how to do it - explained step by step for those new to posting. (Quick and dirty version for advanced users to be added soon):

-First get your pictures into the Internet: Photobucket is one free, easy and widely used photo-storing site. There are others but well go with this one. Go to Photobucket.com. and open a free account. Your home page is My Album. There are long blank boxes on the right with browse buttons next to them. Click on browse and poke around to find the picture on your hard drive or (connected) camera drive. Click one to select it, and the browse button is replaced by a red remove , and a tiny version of your picture appears to the left. You can give your picture a title in the box if you like. Next click on the upload button just below. Site will tell you upload is occuring. Then you should be able to scroll down and see the picture living in your Internet album. Continue to move pictures from your digital camera or from your computer. Each then will have its own Internet address.

-Next resize your picture: This is important etiquette - otherwise your picture will post giant and make people have to scroll to the right to read every line of the thread. Not cool. So be nice and resize your picture first. Above your picture in Photobucket, click on the blue edit button. This opens a window with your picture. Above the picture, click on resize. Select websize for a regular size and message board for larger to show more detail. Confirm in the popup warning box. You should see your picture resized.

-Post the picture in your message: Go to your picture in Photobucket. Look on the right for four boxes, each with computer code related to your picture. The third one down is the HTLM tag that looks like >ahref =http Copy that line of code and paste it right into the body of your message on the Forum. Not into the boxes at the bottom, right into the messsage you are typing.
Check if it worked: Click on the Preview button to see your message. That address code should have been replaced with the actual picture. If the sizing isnt right try clicking your refresh button. Sometimes Photobucket is slow. "

NOTES:

How to Post a Picture
clipped on: 10.04.2008 at 11:48 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2008 at 11:49 pm

RE: Looking for a sofa w/Crypton fabric. Ideas? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: Saphire on 08.22.2005 at 11:00 am in Furniture Forum

You inspired me to check around for Crypton so on either Cryptons or Thomasvilles web site there is a note, its part of Thomasvilles extreme fabric collection, very high end, saleserson said it could doble the base cost.

So I go to Thomasville yesterday to take advantage of yet another of their sales adn of th 3 salespople sitting in front, no one has a clue what Crypton is except in connection with Superman!

So one salesperson took my umber and will call me when she gets abck on Wednesday

I did see a sofa I loved that was SO comfy but what the point if I there is a risk the monsters will destroy it

NOTES:

Crypton fabric
clipped on: 10.04.2008 at 11:46 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2008 at 11:46 pm

RE: Looking for a sofa w/Crypton fabric. Ideas? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: NVoneAcre on 06.15.2005 at 06:41 pm in Furniture Forum

karsha - I have no connection with these companies. The two I've found so far online other than cryptonfabric.com are:
garysupholstery.com/crypton.html has the best selection. The Velese should be alot like Velvet though I haven't seen a sample. Prices are online aprox $36 p/yd. The other is: dalerayfabrics.com - do a search for crypton.
they advertise "SuperSuede" for 19.95 a yard. I do not know how different this is from the "SmartSuede" at CryptonFabric. The SmartSuede at cryptonfabric.com is $55 p/yd. - which is WONDERFUL...stuff. I would strongly suggest getting samples first since the colors are difficult to photograph accurately.
I got another call from my Salesperson who will be sending me some FlexSteel Crypton samples - The one I had picked was discontinued but the others apparently CAN be put onto a residential (vs commercial) style sofa. I should have those in a couple of days, and will report in..

NOTES:

Crypton fabric
clipped on: 10.04.2008 at 11:44 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2008 at 11:45 pm

RE: Looking for a sofa w/Crypton fabric. Ideas? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: NVoneAcre on 05.26.2005 at 05:21 pm in Furniture Forum

Sorry to be so slow responding. Thanks HoveGator for your ideas. I saw the tv show on Crypton as well and went hunting for more info. Since my post I have purchased a couple of pieces of crypton. One is called "SmartSuede" and a lovely soft fabric. The other is a crypton "backed" polyester which has a kindof silky smooth hand. I love the suede but it's much spendier. The cheapest I've seen is abt $36 p/yd. I snipped a sample of each and they are VERY stain resistant. The hardest to get out is butter/grease which requires soap. I think there is a cleaning product too but the soap & water took everything out. I smeared in choc syrup, butter, ketchup, milk. I was very skeptical but all rinsed off with plain water except the butter, leaving no trace. I even threw the sample in the washing machine and it came through with flying colors. This is awesome stuff. I wish I were rich I would buy Cryptons "Interlude", but I haven't found a wholesaler for that, and at $68 p/yd it's out of my reach for a sofa. I'd be interested in anything more.

NOTES:

Crypton fabric
clipped on: 10.04.2008 at 11:41 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2008 at 11:42 pm

RE: Up front costs of Geothermal heat pump vs. other heating meth (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: fsq4cw on 02.14.2006 at 01:31 am in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

One of the best places to learn about the DX geothermal heat pump would be on the how-efficient-is-it-magazine.com web site as well as on the Nordic web site.

We are VERY pleased with our Nordic DX-45 geothermal heat pump. I highly recommend them IF the installation is done well; but that goes with any installation.

I would not limit myself to the DX style of heat pump though, in fact, if I had it to do over again I would consider a water source triple function HP. I like the idea of having copious amounts of hot water as well as forced air.

My best advice is to research thoroughly, hire only IGSHPA accredited or certified professionals. Oklahoma State University is the MIT or Harvard of geothermal technology and development; I fact, other geothermal organizations discreetly send their own people there for accreditation. Check references by visiting completed projects and speaking with their owners. Trust your instincts; if anything feels uncomfortable, keep looking. Take pictures of everything you see. Keep coming back to this forum. Its a great place.

Here are 4 sites that may be helpful:

http://how-efficient-is-it-magazine.com

http://www.igshpa.okstate.edu/index.htm

http://www.nordicghp.com/mg/nordic_heat_pump.htm

http://www.geoexchange.org

SR

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.03.2007 at 10:55 am    last updated on: 05.20.2008 at 01:31 am

RE: Geothermal, hardwood floors, radiant heat, and ducts for A/C (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: funnycide on 11.15.2006 at 10:15 am in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

Usually when we do a geothermal radiant heat house we will do water to air units for AC and then water to water unit(s) for the heating hot water. Using a water to water unit to make hot water in the winter and chilled water in the summer is not my first choice.
Let's talk about what you would get if you chose to go with hot water and chilled water. You would have air handlers with a coil and chilled water piping going from your storage tank to the air handlers. All the piping and air handlers will need to be within the insulation envelope because you don't want to worry about freezing and you don't want glycol. Chilled water piping is pain to deal with. You have to use fiberglass insulation and you can't have any gaps or cuts or your pipes will sweat and drip. You will have to have some controls to decide when to make hot water and when to make chilled water. The controls can get complicated depending on different things. Then you will have to understand that you will only have heat or cooling available at any one time. We have some people with home theaters or exercise rooms where they want cooling even if it is cold outside. This will not be possible with a chilled water system. You will size the unit(s) based on the higher heating or cooling load. If you want to have lots of cooling zones than maybe chilled water would be better.

The other way is to have water to air units do the AC part. Then for radiant heating you have a separate water to water unit just to make hot water. The controls are a lot simpler. You can also decide to heat the second floor or whatever with hot air and just do radiant on the 1st floor. You size the water to air units for the cooling load and the water to water unit(s) for the heating load.

The number of boreholes should be the same for both. You can have a desuperheater with either setup. In general the costs would depend on your layout and number of units. I would say I would have a hard time believing a chilled water setup would be significantly cheaper.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.19.2007 at 07:35 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2007 at 07:35 pm

RE: What is Foil tape? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: energy_rater_la on 09.12.2007 at 07:08 pm in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

I'm with thull..ducts need mastic materials for a long term seal. Worth the extra cost, unless you want to do it again in a couple of years.

I use Hardcast brand. They also make an excellent paint on mastic called Irongrip.
These products are available at hvac supply stores. Ask for them by name.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.19.2007 at 05:45 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2007 at 05:45 pm

RE: What is Foil tape? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: thull on 09.10.2007 at 09:11 am in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

Personally, I'd go for one of the foil mastic tapes. I've used a lot of it on our ducts to seal them up better. The standard foil tape is fine when everything's clean and new. If there's the slightest amount of dust, it won't stick though. I've found that, with the Hardcast foil mastic tape, it's more forgiving of my just brushing off the dust then slapping on the tape.

It is expensive, though ($28 for 100'). The cheaper alternative is a bucket of mastic paste. The trade off is that it'll be messy to slather on.

Food for thought. Have fun.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.19.2007 at 05:41 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2007 at 05:41 pm

RE: PEX water supply (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: mark_fleming on 11.28.2006 at 02:28 pm in Plumbing Forum

I'm amazed that PEX is not code approved in some areas. That's the first I've heard of it, but I only got interested in it a few years ago. Both Home Depot and Lowes carry a good selection in my area, and it's improving daily. No sooner did I buy 100' of red 1/2" off the internet than Lowes begain carrying it in stock (for less $$). Lowes also carries a few more fittings than Home Depot, and carries all the fittings that you'll need for most plumbing applications.

I'll admit that I was a little uncomfortable with my first installation. I ran 3/8" PEX to a new kitchen sink. I used 3/8" because the sink was some distance from the hot water tank. 3/8" pipe contains 1/2 the water that 1/2" pipe carries, so the water gets hot twice as fast. Actually, faster. The PEX run snaked though knockouts in the engineered floor joists. I didn't have to drill a single hole (except up through the floor) and the direct run was 5 or 6 feet shorter than a run with straight pipe and elbows. PEX doesn't suck the heat out of the water like copper, so you get hot water faster. So, hot water in 1/4 the amount of time. And, since there were no elbows, it flows more efficiently and cost only the per foot cost of the PEX (about 30 cents per foot). No change in the amount of hot available, only amazement at how fast I get hot water.

The only thing weird was that it looked messy in comparison to a nice soldered copper pipe. Since it took 1/4 the time, cost 1/2 as much, and is hidden by drywall, I can live with that.

Buy your crimping tools from Ebay. They're about 1/2 the cost of box stores. If you're doing a big project, buy the fittings and rings there or off the internet, also. Use the box stores for the pipe or for fittings that you forgot. When you're done with your project, sell the tools and extra parts on Ebay or keep them for future projects.

Mark

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.10.2007 at 10:00 pm    last updated on: 09.10.2007 at 10:00 pm

RE: Isokern fireplace units: anyone have experience with these?2 (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: breezy_2 on 02.03.2007 at 07:47 pm in Fireplaces Forum

Sorry! I also wanted to mention the gas log lighter my GC is going to put in. He` had it left over from another job several years ago. I had posted an inquiry about it a week or so ago and got little response but since this post is getting a lot of attention, I though I would try again.

The log lighter is a heavy cast iron box about the size of a fire brick. I mounts flush in the floor of the fireplace and has a heavy cast iron top that sets on top of it with grooves in it to distribute the flame. Its a really neat unit but I am trying to find out the manufacturer so I can get another one or at least replacement covers (tops).

Any help is appreciated!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.09.2007 at 09:35 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2007 at 09:35 pm

RE: Isokern fireplace units: anyone have experience with these? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: charlesj on 05.26.2005 at 03:55 pm in Fireplaces Forum

It's nice to hear everyone is happy with thier Isokern. We just bought one & will be here next week...I'm going to install it myself. We paid a little over $3,000 delivered...can't wait to start....

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.09.2007 at 09:34 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2007 at 09:34 pm

RE: Isokern fireplace units: anyone have experience with these? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: AZdreamhome on 05.14.2005 at 01:04 pm in Fireplaces Forum

shonikman -- I don't know where you are getting a bid from but that price seems really high. Send me an email and I'll let you know what we were quoted.

Here is the Isokern AZ site which has some photos. We are probably going with a carved cantera stone mantel with raised hearth (or cast stone). I'm still in the beginning stages of my research on this. We have 16' ceilings in our great room but I don't think I want an overmantel.

http://www.azisokern.com/

Check out the photos in the "online showroom" section for ideas. Plus if you Google "cantera fireplaces" "cast stone fireplaces" "limestone fireplaces" etc. you will see lots of companies online with their own photos.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.09.2007 at 09:33 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2007 at 09:33 pm

RE: Isokern fireplace units: anyone have experience with these? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: shonikman on 05.14.2005 at 01:47 am in Fireplaces Forum

Glad to hear of the good reviews. We are planning to put a 42" wide isokern in our family room. Anyone have photos of their isokerns to check out? Bosche, your Lachance is FANTASTIC! Got any shots of the mantle over the isokern?? Would like to see how y'all treated your fireplaces with mantles, tile, chases and benches.

AZdreamhome, how would you be triming yours out? Not sure how we will trim ours out. Looking for ideas. And what did your isokern quote in AZ run you? We are in SoCal and got a quote for ~$9000 installed (including one bend in the flue). A lot of money for a fireplace compaired to gas-insert. But like you said, 3X LESS than traditional masonary. We have the potential to put one in the MB too but have to wait to see how the $$$ works out.

Keep us posted on your progress.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.09.2007 at 09:32 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2007 at 09:33 pm

RE: DX geothermal (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: greenguy400 on 04.21.2007 at 08:00 am in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

1.) EERs (& SEERS's)only indicate a/c function efficiencies.
For use as a heating system, COP's are the indicator that is important.
2.) Waterfurnace does not make DX ergo their COP's refer only to the actual geothermal unit. When you add in the large pump needed for an open loop system or the smaller circ pump needed for a closed loop system, the actual total power use goes up and thus the COP of the "system" will go down.
3.) Nordic COP's are accurate and CSA certified taking into account the (average) cooler ground temps in Canada.
4.) The audit software (elite) that ECR recommends to it's dealers (for the few who seem to actually use it) does not not include backup heating costs in it's forecasts. When the audit software is used and ECR is selected, the company supplied data does not show all the power actually needed to run the system in most climates, ie north of florida. This means that the straight electric heat that is used to supplement the DX system in cold weather is not indicated on the forecast estimates of system running costs.
5.) Getting a good installer is the hardest part of the decision to put in one of these sytems. Having completed an ECR installers course would not instill a lot of faith for me. (I have done it) Look for someone who has a an extensive geothermal background, is igshpa INSTALLER CERTIFIED (not just a member) and then has become involved with DX and has at least 10 installations under his/her belt. Ask if they have full time, permanent staff with geothermal training. Even good questions are only as valuable as the integrity of those answering. If a rep from a company comes across as a cheesy car salesman, show him the door.
6.) There are 2 ways to deal with high PH levels:
cathodic protection and zinc annodes attached to the ground loops.

Guy

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 09.09.2007 at 12:03 am    last updated on: 09.09.2007 at 12:03 am

RE: Have Any of You Seen This Outside Light?? (pic) (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: bluesalsa on 07.30.2007 at 05:27 pm in Lighting Forum

It looks like it may be a custom copper light. Here are some companies that make outdoor lighting - I didn't see anything exactly like your photograph, but perhaps one of these would work - or you could have something similar made.

Carolina Lanterns
http://www.carolinalanterns.com/index.cfm

The Washington Copper Works
http://www.washingtoncopperworks.com/

The Urban Electric Company
http://www.urbanelectricco.com/

Bevolo Gas & Electric Lights
http://www.bevolo.com/

Fourteenth Colony
http://www.fourteenthcolonylighting.com/

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 08.29.2007 at 11:53 pm    last updated on: 08.29.2007 at 11:53 pm

RE: Do you have an access hatch? Whirlpool/Airtub baths (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: mongoct on 08.20.2007 at 03:37 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Best bet was to draw a picture.

Hope it's understandable.


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


Remember, the top rail and the bottom rail of the face frame are connected by four vertical stiles. I left them out of the drawing so the drawing wouldn't be as cluttered.

There are indeed no mechanical fasteners or magnets that hold the face frame or the panels in place. The panels are captured by engaging the face frame rails. The face frame is captured by the tub deck on top and the base board on the bottom.

The gist of it is that the face frame is loaded into the front by tilting the top of the frame into the gap built into the bottom front edge of the tub deck. Once the top of the frame is slid upwards into the slot, the bottom of the face frame is rotated inwards so that the bottom engages in the bottom slot. It is held in place by the baseboard.

When released, it drops down about 1/4" or so, and the bottom is locked in the slot created by the baseboard in front and the cleat behind it.

To remove the face frame, lift it up so the top rail of the face frame goes upwards in the top slot that's behind the front edge of the tub deck. The bottom of the bottom rail will rise up enough to be above the top edge of the baseboard. The bottom rail of the face frame can then be rotated outwards, then the whole frame is lowered so the top rail comes out of the top slot.

Clear as mud?

The three individual panels are dealt with in the same sort of fashion.

To install a panel, hold it as depicted in the diagram. Slide it up so that bottom edge of the top rail on the face frame engages the slot in the top of the removable panel. then rotate the bottom of the panel into the face frame, then lower it.

To remove the panel, vice-versa...lift the panel up, rotate the bottom out, then lower the panel.

Mongo

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 08.25.2007 at 02:11 am    last updated on: 08.25.2007 at 02:11 am

RE: Do you have an access hatch? Whirlpool/Airtub baths (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mongoct on 08.20.2007 at 01:39 pm in Bathrooms Forum

You'll need two things:
-access to the pump and/or heater
-free air to the pump

Here are some pics I have on file. The apron is wood frame with three removable panels. Not only can each panel be removed on its own, but the entire front apron, to include the frame and the three panels, can be removed as a whole.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


For air, I have access from both ends. In the last picture, you can see a grate on the left side of the apron. In that same picture, you can see the removed apron on the right side of the picture, leaning against a closet. The toe kick of the closet is open, and air can flow through the toe kick, under the closet, and to the tub's mechanicals.

Other options include hinged access panels with hidden "push to release" latches, or panels held in place with magnets or simple clips.

Access can even be obtained through the wall from an adjacent room.

Lots of ways to do this.

Mongo

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 08.25.2007 at 02:10 am    last updated on: 08.25.2007 at 02:10 am

RE: Help with flooring to go with carrara marble vanity top!! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: sharron58 on 08.23.2007 at 07:21 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here are some ideas...I'm going to have a dark wood vanity with a carrara top, and I'm planning on a light blue gray tile with some brown in it. I think it depends a lot on whether you're going for a traditional look or a transitional look (that's me). Also I don't think a white floor would be too practical. Anyway if you want to see more wall colors try the Pottery Barn and Restoration Hardware websites. Good luck!
gavea azul
carerra marble counter
double sink beadboard batheclectic2-aaa02246-med
fairmont designs shaker 11
img38l
kohler devonshire tub
prod1290061_bb307

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 08.25.2007 at 12:19 am    last updated on: 08.25.2007 at 12:20 am

RE: Lexington Furniture Company in Lexington, KY (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: summertime on 04.24.2004 at 02:29 pm in Furniture Forum

*chime*

Yep, I ordered an H&M Sinclair sofa in Equestrian Saddle from Lexington a few weeks ago. Dealing on the phone with Angela. She's been great! Got my leather swatch in and approved it, and now am waiting to get the call that it's on it's way.

Also, I couldn't beat their price anywhere. Not even close. My sofa and leather are not in any program (unfortunately), so my quotes from CI, Elite and Boyles were in the $2800-$3100 range. I'm paying much less with Lexington (about $2500). So, frankly, I didn't even really care if they were johnny on the spot with my phone calls. BUT, they actually have been terrific on the phone too. So, what can I say? I like them alot.

Good luck! (Oh, and I have since referred two friends to them, and one has ordered, so it's not just anonymously I give this advice!)

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 08.19.2007 at 12:00 am    last updated on: 08.19.2007 at 12:00 am

RE: Mowing lawn with a 'real' tractor? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: castoff on 03.07.2007 at 11:19 am in Tractors Forum

For the most part, I agree with jeffgt5000 but perhaps some clarification is needed, since his advice might seem slightly opposite to what I posted earlier.

The OP stated that he was seeking a "real tractor". To me, that would mean a unit with a CAT 1 three-point hitch capable of handling all the CAT 1 implements. Some tractors are fitted with the CAT 1 hitches but they have limited use due to inadequate tractor weight and horsepower.

Based on the OP's mention of a real tractor, I suggested a New Holland TC45DA because it's three-point is rated at 2,330 pound lift capacity. With four-wheel drive, 45 gross hp and 38 PTO hp, this tractor will handle any chores that a seven acre parcel of land can toss its way. Not bad for a tractor that weighs two tons.

Comparable models can be found in the Case DX45, Kubota L 4330 and M- 4800, Kioti DK-45S, John Deere 3720 and 4120 and Massey 1540.

The quick-tach loader for this tractor has a lift capacity of 1540 pounds. The lift capacity of a Case 40XT skid-steer loader is 1500 pounds by comparison. Therefore, THIS PARTICULAR TRACTOR will handle the same attachments the 40XT will and to me the 40XT is the benchmark.

As for hydraulics, the TC45's pump puts out almost 10 gallons per minute. Hydraulic post hole diggers will run on as low as 4 gpm. Ten gpm is more than adequate. Sure, the unit will turn only half as fast if it were powered by a 19 gpm pump, like that in the Case 40XT but nonetheless, it will dig post holes for you.

Ten gpm will also power any skid-steer style implements with small hydraulic motors or with hydraulic cylinders. As for snowblowers, I don't think that one of those is in your future.

The above is not intended to be argumentative. The issue here is YOUR NEEDS and then choosing the best tractor that will easily handle those needs with safety. There are GT's out there, sub-cuts and CUT's. It's all about size, weight and horespower as to what is right for you.

My city-boy son-in-law asked me what he should buy for his 25 acre horse farm a year ago last fall. We found a nice, used TC45DX Boomer for him with a cab, air and FEL. He procrastinated for his own reasons and it got sold. He then found a nice 25 hp Ford CUT with FEL and I told him not to buy it because it was underpowered, underweight, manual transmission and had no cab.

He went ahead and bought it. Within two months of using it, he concluded that he made a huge mistake and is now in the process of seeking out another TC45 or equivalent. Good used CUT's are out there but your budget is a bit slim for the models I mentioned. Instead of just reading about them, you should pound the pavement from dealer to dealer and look at new ones and then see what's available used in the size you think will work for you.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 08.05.2007 at 10:39 pm    last updated on: 08.05.2007 at 10:40 pm

How many OB (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: persnicketydesign on 03.20.2007 at 07:49 pm in Building a Home Forum

Forgot to mention that sierraeast is right (as usual LOL). We will be required to provide Builder's Risk insurance (approx $1000). Hopefully, it will be the best money I've ever wasted!

We'll only be hiring subs who have current licenses and workman's comp coverage too (be sure to keep copies of both in your files). Accidents happen and it's best to be prepared for them.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.30.2007 at 05:32 pm    last updated on: 04.30.2007 at 05:33 pm

RE: How many are owner/builder or acting as GC (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: persnicketydesign on 03.20.2007 at 07:25 pm in Building a Home Forum

Mikeyvon, I have to tell you I can't wait to see how your house turns out! I think all of your windows will be incredible.

We aren't required to be licensed here in GA, but we didn't have a bit of trouble getting pre-approval for our construction loan. A big part of that may be because we already own the land and are using it to secure the loan, so if we fail miserably the folks at the bank will have a really nice view and some great neighbors! LOL

But seriously...we REALLY overdid it when we presented our ideas to them. I have a big book that I keep with me that includes many of the items that we're including in our home and some of the things we've already purchased (I included the spec sheets for those). Also included in the "big book" is our floorplan, elevations, photos of the interior finishes I plan to use, interior color choices, flooring, cabinetry, doors, etc. I also included several listings from the MLS for homes in our area that are comparable to what we want to build and the prices for ones in our neighborhood that had recently sold.

After we showed them the "big book" I took out the accordian file that has my samples of the exterior things I want to use. No joke...I have samples of the siding, roofing, paint swatches, stone info, brochures for the windows (I couldn't fit in a real window LOL), etc. You get the picture.

I also keep 2 business cards for every sub that I've been in touch with and keep one in the "big book". The other is attatched to a sheet of paper with the info that I have spoken to them about. *the bank liked this one* Be sure to ask Mr. Banker if he's familiar with any good subs. The banker will most likely never come to a jobsite, but you can bet that he hears about the people working there. Our bank fella's wife is a builder and he had a rolodex of subs that he recommended...and some that he told us to avoid.

Our county also has a department specifically designed to help OBs through the entire process. :o)

Basically, it was overkill. BUT...they knew that we had done our research and are dedicated to building our home to high standards. I think that if we had just walked in and said we'd like some $$$ to build they would have laughed us out the door. We told them up front that we're months away from even breaking ground and that getting our financing taken care of was part of the planning phase. They said "No problem. Just let us know when you're ready."

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.30.2007 at 05:29 pm    last updated on: 04.30.2007 at 05:30 pm

RE: joist span - will we bounce? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: goldcountry on 05.29.2006 at 07:21 am in Building a Home Forum

I don't know if this will help you feel any better, and it looks like you're in great hands with these pros here, but this is what was engineered for us here in Northern California. The framers and inspectors seemed to impressed, saying it was definitely well engineered. The photos below are just so you can get an idea of the wide span of the area, and the joists used. Hope they help give you an idea of what it took to get a strong, no-bounce floor, that can also handle a heavy top load. :-)

40x30 Garage Apartment
No standing/vertical support beams in the middle either! Completely open, so joists had to span 30 ft long x 40 ft side by side

A very heavy person can literally jump on the upper floor and feel like they're jumping on concrete. This sucker is solid!! :-)

TJI Joists
Weyerhaeuser(?) - "The Quiet Floor" joists (the one with the elephant, LOL)
Running 30' spans.
All at 16 O.C . . .
But many were doubled up where bearing wall or heavy areas are located above.

Parallam Beams
Two - 6x12
Placed at areas of load bearing studs above.

Blocking:
Blocking at each parlallam beam as shown below
Blocking at outside paramter joists
Blocking in other areas in between for extra strengthening



Blocks (Below)


Our blocks were supplied by the joist company, as the framers love not having to cut them all up on site, however you can create them, by cutting the ends of the joists, as long as you provided enough length to do so, at least that's what I understood. :-)


 


Here is a link that might be useful: Our Home

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.30.2007 at 04:28 pm    last updated on: 04.30.2007 at 04:29 pm

RE: Who supplies electrical and plumbing layout? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: sniffdog on 01.26.2007 at 08:37 am in Building a Home Forum

When we bought our plans on line, they came with an electrical plan. This was not a detailed schematic of all wires - just locations of light fixtures and switches. It was a good starting point.

I would highly recommend that you either do your own electrical plan, or have you lighting designer (if you have one) work one up. Here is why. If you leave it up to the electrican, they will do what is in the code. That is the minimum - but not good enough for me. They will tend to minimize 3way or 4way swtiches when there are several ways to enter and leave a room - that is a pain (I hate having to run back and forth to turn lights on and off - especially when it is dark) The number of outlets required by code is a joke - there are never enough of these. Do you put XMAS light candles in your windows> Do you have lot's of pwer tools in your utility room? Do you like to hide chargable items inside cabinets? Think about how you live and where you need (or wouldlike to have) extra outlets. Where do you want switchable lamps? They always screw that up.

I have spent probably 100 hours or more designing my electrical plan. I made a copy of the floor plan and started putting in light fixtures and switches. I then took it to my electrical designer and he ripped it apart - gave me a lot of great feedback. I came back with a revision and we sellted in on the plan. I numbered every fixture on the plan so that I could keep a spread sheet of all light fixtures - to estimate the budget.

We iterated on the design several times to arrive at a really good plan. It took a lot of work but was worth the effort. My sister in law just moved into a $1.6M dream house and had to pay an electrician to re-wire a bunch of stuff, put in dimmers, etc. Spent over $5000 to get it right. That makes no sense to me - get it right before drywall goes up.

As far as plumbing, your house plan should already have on it drawings of the counters and cabinets, with sink locations etc. Where the W/D goes, toilets, etc. We made spread sheet by room of all plumbing fixtures but we don't have a detailed plumbing plan showing where pipes are etc. That might be worth doing, but I have never seen one.

Best of Luck

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.30.2007 at 03:49 pm    last updated on: 04.30.2007 at 03:50 pm

RE: Pex to copper fitting (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sharkbite1 on 03.07.2007 at 03:27 pm in Plumbing Forum

Cash Acme, based in Alabama, offers SharkBite Push-Fittings that would be ideal for your application. SharkBite fittings can be connected to cPVC, PEX, and Copper in any combination with no tools. It is certified for underground and behind-the-wall applications. You can pressure test immediately with no wait time. Also it is certified up to 200F and 200psi.

Here is a link that might be useful: SharkBite Product Info

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.30.2007 at 12:39 am    last updated on: 04.30.2007 at 12:39 am

Some inspiration pics for Accessorizing

posted by: judithva on 01.19.2007 at 11:49 am in Holiday Forum

Hi all,
I thought I would post some inspirations pics that I have in my Photobucket. If there are some photos you like, make sure you save them, cause sometimes I run out of room on my Photobucket acct. and I have to remove them to make room for others.

All of these pictures IMHO have something in the "accessory" arena that a person can get ideas from, whether its plates or pictures on the wall, or accessories on a table top or bookcase, remember, some things look expensive but think out of the box and come up with more affordable subsitutions, that is what I do 98% of the time. LOL
If any one else has inspirations pics please feel free to add to this posting.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.29.2007 at 10:01 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2007 at 10:02 pm

RE: Home Building Abberley Lane, Another 'Newbie' asks for help (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: bebetokids on 02.15.2007 at 08:37 am in Building a Home Forum

I found this in the POH last year-think it's the same plan. They even "named" the house Abberley Lane!

Here is a link that might be useful: abberley lane pics

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.29.2007 at 09:41 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2007 at 09:42 pm

RE: How much more is a basement than a slab? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: charliedawg on 04.23.2007 at 07:35 am in Building a Home Forum

In my area total cost for 1500 sf basement is about 20,000. It's about 30,000 for a walkout basement.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.29.2007 at 06:14 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2007 at 06:14 pm

RE: How much more is a basement than a slab? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bus_driver on 04.23.2007 at 07:10 am in Building a Home Forum

In NC, by doing some of the work myself, I have 10' high Superior Walls basement for about $12.00 per square foot including the floor slab.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.29.2007 at 06:13 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2007 at 06:13 pm

How much more is a basement than a slab?

posted by: staccato on 04.23.2007 at 01:34 am in Building a Home Forum

I've been quoted between 15 and 20 dollars per square foot for slab foundations. Lot is level and house footprint is 45' W X 75' D

How much more cost per square foot is reasonable for a basement? So far nobody in the area is familiar with Arxx concrete wall forms (I assume there is similar products for pouring basement walls)

Unfortunately Superior Walls doesn't do business in California otherwise I'd be considering them.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.29.2007 at 06:11 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2007 at 06:11 pm

RE: Advice needed, preparing to solicit bids (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: vfish on 03.31.2007 at 08:21 pm in Building a Home Forum

When we started building our home, we were clueless, trusting everyone. We started working with a GC and the week before we demolished our home, after a very heated discussion about how he was going to bill us, we escorted him to the door and said good-bye.
We got a little smarter after that, took a 30 day delay finding another GC. In the meanwhile, I did what dabunch pointed out. I started on an excel spreadsheet and item by item began making exact specifications of the home I wanted someone to build.
It's really overwhelming until you break it down to bite size items.
For instance, take a look at a cost-item breakdown. It begins with Pre-construction costs...write down all items you can think of for preconstruction.
Move on to the next...Site prep - demo, clearing, stake-out, etc. We specified exactly what we wanted cleared out, how and to what degree. We moved on the the Foundation. How thick, etc.
I ended up with 32 pages of typed specifications, gathered pictures, made drawings, etc. of what I wanted.
When we interviewed for GC's, I handed them copies of the "master plan" that was part of the contract for them to sign and have their subs read and sign.....it has saved me so much $$ in the long run.
Sure, I have still encountered some run-in's but I think they would have been a lot worse if I had not been as specific as I was to begin with. For instance, when they began putting in the lumber specifications for the roof, I asked about the rafter tails and how all of that was to work out. Well, it costs more to put in decorative rafter tails, as I have found out, and then you have to have a specific design before the roof beams are delivered to the site, the framer has to specifically measure how the tails will be built in and around the house for spacing, etc. Because of all of this additional work, the first thing they ask...is it on the plans? Well, it's not on the plans, but it's in writing on the master plan, that you signed. OK, was the response and no further question was asked about it...but you see, it could have been an "overage" for the extra work because it wasn't specified on the plans.
This cost breakdown and specification "master sheet" will take some time, but it's a good time to sit down with your significant other and both of you decide what you want and how you want it to look....
Hope this helps...

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.29.2007 at 05:56 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2007 at 05:57 pm

RE: Advice needed, preparing to solicit bids (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: wallykasey on 03.31.2007 at 05:33 pm in Building a Home Forum

There are many, many ways to build a custom home. Bottomline, it's just a house with the big difference that it is to your specifications.

I would say that many, if not most people that have built on this forum have built luxury homes. And many, many people have experienced headaches.

The choices you have is to build a turnkey home where everything is done and all you do is move in or to the other extreme where you act as the GC yourself. Of course there are a lot of stages that you can build to in between these extremes.

For example, if you are reasonably "handy" are open to learning you could have a builder construct a home up to and including the drywall stage. You would then install (either yourself or find someone to do it for you) things like the kitchen cabinets, flooring, painting, roofing, exterior work, trim, etc, etc.

The more you control or do yourself the more the results will be to your satisfaction, (and save you a LOT of money). If you have read a lot of posts on this forum, you'll notice, very quickly, that a lot of people are not satisfied with their GC. In many cases it's because the builder doesn't have the same mental picture of how the house should look like as the picture that's in your mind....and thus the problems begin.

The homeowners that avoid problems are the ones that know what they want before construction begins and are able to communicate those wants & needs to the builder in a clear (very clear), concise and logical way. They have itemized details room by room. They have magazine pictures, photographs, etc of what they want. They have pre-selected virtually everything so that there are no surprises. It is better to take 6 months doing research and get everything nailed down (no pun intended) then to make choices "on-the-fly" as construction is going on.

As an example, it is way better to know that your kitchen appliances are going to cost $5,432.16 because that's what you have selected than to just say that kitchen appliances will be a $5000 allowance. (of, course add more if you want a pro stove, etc). It is better to know that your front door will cost $1,245 (installation and tax included) then to have a $1000 front door allowance. The builder isn't going to do your pricing for you.....it's up to you. And forget about so-called builders markups....find a builder who will let you buy your own "stuff". It's your house, your money (not the builders), your decisions and it's up to you to maintain control. Builders want your business, it's amazing on how flexible they can be.

My point is this, it is up to the builder's quote for the total cost of the foundation, septic, framing, drywall, but when it comes to things like flooring, you should know what it is going to cost down to the "penny". Same with windows, kitchen cabinets, countertops, painting, light fixtures, etc. You can have all that selected, itemized and costed out BEFORE you talk to any general contractors. All it takes is research and if you are willing to do it (and it seems that most people aren't willing) then building a house which you turn into a "home" will be a pleasant, exciting and enjoyable experience that will reward you for years.

If you build by the "seat-of-your-pants" or "on-the-fly" you will get grief, aggravation and major cost over-runs. I guarantee it!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.29.2007 at 05:54 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2007 at 05:56 pm

RE: Advice needed, preparing to solicit bids (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ka70 on 03.31.2007 at 05:15 pm in Building a Home Forum

dabunch gives great advice. I wish I would have seen that prior to us building. We had specification sheets, but were not that detailed and now we are being asked to pay extra for steps to the front porch!!! We are being charged extra for just about everything...so I agree with dabunch, you really need to have EVERYTHING in your specification sheet....If you are choosing granite, make sure you say what size-1cm, 2cm, or 3cm and what kind of edge you want. Some will charge extra for beveled or decorative edges. We had a $1500 front door allowance and our door was $3600--there was hardly anything available for less....even though the original plans showed a door with 2 sidelights and a transom, we couldn't find anything for $1500. (of course, we didn't know that you couldn't get a door like the plans showed for $1500, we were clueless...) Be specific on your cabinets--we went over allowance there too---and I thought I had been specific, I gave them a picture! You would think that would be "specific"... Also, my advice is that you get everything in writing! We talked with the GC & the cabinet guy and agreed on some extra charges, verbally the charges were $300, when we got the bill, it was $1250 extra!! GET IT IN WRITING! I also agree with dabunch when he says don't believe what they say!! Do your own research and know what you want.....that was hard for me, because we weren't really sure what we wanted...Go look at the builders work and if you can, talk to the owners of the houses you visit. Ask them if they felt like the builder's allowances were adequite or if they went over budget on a lot of things. I am continually amazed at what he can come up with that we have to pay extra for!
good luck!

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.29.2007 at 05:53 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2007 at 05:53 pm

RE: Advice needed, preparing to solicit bids (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dabunch on 03.31.2007 at 04:34 pm in Building a Home Forum

I had 5 homes (not all were custom) built & the first word of advice: It's a business transaction. Don't let emotion get in the way & DO NOT trust builders. They are VERY amiable BEFORE they start & usually nice people, EXCEPT when it gets down to the money while building. Then they turn into Mizers, squeezing Lincoln until he screams.
Be saavy & get a couple of quotes with everything. specified.

Where do you live? The cost of construction varies regionally.

Check prices of things ahead of time. Know that a kitchen allowance of 15k is not enough. Go to a couple of kitchen places with a rough drawing & have them throw you a price.
Specify the brand name, size, color or anything that pertains to that item.
Kitchen appliances. What is their allowance? Know that 5k will buy you a stove, only-lol
Start with the exterior & work your way into the interior.

Example : My builder was giving me an allowance of $700 for the entry door. My door cost 2k. If you don't specify, they will give you the cheapest thing that they can find & if you want something nicer, YOU will have to pay the difference with their mark-up. My builder's mark up was 30%!!!
Specify: The roof shingles, type & year warranty,
The siding, type, make & color
The entry door, make, type, allowance
2x6 or 2x4 construction.
One entry into the basement or two.
Garage doors- windows, no windows, insulated, wood or other material.
Windows-Sizes, brand name, U value, R-value. Shutters or other...
Insulation R-38, r-19 value or what?
Garage, insulated, finished or what?
Deck/Patio/Walkways-what should those be made of, how wide, what shape...
The number of exterior faucets, electrical outlets.
Exterior landscaping- what kind of plants you want, grass, sod...Give dimensions of how far they need to clear, rake, sod. Don't assume that they will remove necessary trees or debris or seed it to the property line!
SPECIFY, SPECIFY, SPECIFY EVERYTHING!

The more specific, the better & he won't get you for extras. Don't assume just because your friends got something form their builder, yours will honor your VERBAL request & that he'll give it to you at no charge!

Be very careful with the allowances they give you. That's why you need to know prices ahead of time or you will go over your budget.
INTERIOR- Aside from the CODE eletrical that they give you, YOU must know the allownce you need for extra lighting outlets, fixtures etc. Mine ran me 10k over!...and I was conservative.
Plumbing- specify types, brands of faucets sinks whirplools, showers. You need to do a lot of research & specify what you want.
FLOORING-tile/hardwood/carpet Get a good allownce for tile, hardwood & carpet. You can choose the tile later, but know that $5 sqft for tile is not great. Hardwood- the least expensive, I think is Oak. If you want soemthing else, put it in your contract-type, color brand...
Bathroom vanities-with kitchen allowance? Those are not cheap. Granite, corian what?
Doors- wood, cardboard, what?
Stairs- ALL (red, white)Oak, mixed wood, what? Specify Balusters, risers rails made of what?
Accessories- do they install give you allowance Or do you do it yourself?
PAINT-one color or mutli colors?
TRIM/Crown molding where & how thick, wide. Painted or stained.
ALL these things are important & need to be spelled out....or you'll get stuck with a budget bust bigtime if it's not in your contract.

I probably missed something...good luck.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.29.2007 at 05:50 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2007 at 05:51 pm

RE: best place to buy.... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jyyanks on 03.24.2007 at 09:10 pm in Furniture Forum

The 2 companies frequently mentioned on this forum are Boyles in NC and Lexington Furniture (lexfurniture.com) in Kentucky.
If you do a search on this forum, you can see reviews from people who've ordered from both.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.21.2007 at 10:33 pm    last updated on: 04.21.2007 at 10:34 pm

RE: best place to buy.... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ctsuvgal on 04.21.2007 at 09:00 pm in Furniture Forum

Try furnitureland south. my neighbor recently redid her entire house and bought most of her furniture thru them. Said they had the best prices. I've gotten my patio furniture from them and save over $1000.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 04.21.2007 at 10:31 pm    last updated on: 04.21.2007 at 10:32 pm