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Beans / Creasedback or Crazy Beans

posted by: mawma on 01.07.2011 at 06:53 pm in Beans, Peas & Other Legumes Forum

I was on here a year or 2 ago talking about a bean that we have. Several people wanted to try them. But alot of illness & deaths in the family happen so I didn't get to send any to them. The bean is what my grandma called a creasedback bean. They are a bush or shortrunner, they have purple blooms on them, to look at the plant you don't think there are any beans till you push the leaves apart & there their are. We use to grow Blue Lake, till we got these & these are all we grow, because we love the flavor. Also as long as they have water they will continue to bloom & have beans till either a hard frost or freeze gets them. When we first got them. We planted them got several pickings from them & then it turned off dry. We couldn't water then so we just left them in the ground. Their leaves fell off & they just stood there. Then in the late summer or early fall it started raining & darn if those beans starting blooming & putting on beans & kept on till the frost got them. They stay tender till they get quite big. The dried beans are a combination of colors, some brown speckled with black, some black speckled with brown, some soild black they can have some of each in a single pod. It doesn't matter which you plant, they will still have all the different colors. If any of you that wanted a start of these beans, please get in touch with me. I will be happy to send you a start of them. My grandma said she raised her family on these in the thirties & then lost the seed. She was sure glad to see them again.

NOTES:

Origin of Woods Mountain Crazy Bean:
Mrs. Sherry Hill
Fayetteville, AR
clipped on: 10.25.2014 at 07:17 am    last updated on: 10.25.2014 at 07:21 am

RE: My most disappointing spring (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: ScottOkieman on 04.06.2013 at 11:15 pm in Oklahoma Gardening Forum

Larry,

The plastic sheeting I used was 6 mill.

I don't have anything between the cattle panels and the plastic for reinforcement. Last year once it got hot enough that I did not need it as a greenhouse I took the plastic off and grew cucumbers in containers inside the cattle panels (formerly the greenhouse. This was during the 100 degree weather. I put shade cloth on top of the panels initially until the plants were climbing aggressively. The cucumbers hung down from the sides and from the roof. I grew Orient Express on one side and Sweeter Yet on the other.

When I built this I drove two rebar into the ground on one side of one cattle panel. Then I bent the panel up until it was in the upside down "U" shape you see in the picture. Then I drove two rebar into the ground to hold it in place. I then used baling wire to secure the panel to the rebar. Then I did the next panel the same way right next to the first, using baling wire to secure the two panel together. Then the third panel the same way. Cut one piece of the plastic sheeting to cover the back of the structure, and another the front. Secure it with baling wire or string in multiple places. Then place the large long piece of sheeting on the structure and weigh the sides down with what ever you have handy. I used landscape timbers and logs. The end of the wires on the cattle panels will "grab" the plastic and hold it in place when you weigh down the sides. On the end where I wanted the entrance to be I slit an upside down T in the plastic for a door. Lastly, I used two cheap table cloths to hang on each side of the door, overlapping. They are secured with light rope over the cattle panel and table cloth ends, with weights hanging down the side to keep them in place. This makes a kind of double door.

If you have any questions feel free to ask. I know there are other who have built this type of redneck greenhouse and have posted pics and instructions on line. Theirs are probably a bit more sophisticated.

Good luck.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 04.07.2013 at 07:52 am    last updated on: 04.07.2013 at 07:52 am

RE: Keyhole Gardening (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: soonergrandmom on 02.14.2013 at 02:59 pm in Oklahoma Gardening Forum

If I am understanding everything correctly, you don't require a swale at every bed and especially in the case of land with a natural slope. The distance between the swales, for maximum benefit of harvesting rain water, is based on the amount of rain water you receive in a year. The MORE rain you get the closer the swales need to be, hence more places for the water to be held in place. If you get little rain, say 12-16 inches, then 50 feet would be OK, but if you get 40-50 inches like we do here, you would need to be closer, like 18 feet, or so.

If that swale is 18 inches deep in the center, and around 6 feet wide, then you could plant some at the top side of the swale because you are holding water in the swale long enough to provide moisture, but the low side then becomes of so much greater benefit than it was before. If before digging out the swale, you could put limbs, old firewood, hay, whatever, on the low side then loosely put the soil from you swale, on top of that wood creating a hugelkulture bed, then the water from the swell will flow downhill (underground), wick into the wood filled bed. The wet wood is going to hold moisture that will wick up to keep that bed moist, but simple gravity is going to let the water flow downhill, but underground. So below ground you are creating a slowly watered bed, instead of losing the water to run-off on the surface that you would have experienced had you not had the swale to slow down the water. You also have less evaporation because it is not exposed to the air.

At some point, the moisture that goes straight down into the earth, is going to hit a barrier of some sort, or such a saturation of moisture, that in some climates you may create springs, or restore springs that once ran full time.

Regardless of what you eventually achieve, your immediate result is that you have kept the rainfall on you land for a longer period of time, which has to have a benefit. In addition, you have stopped erosion on any steep spot or on the land surface near any creek or low spot on the property, or in the case of a urban property, just kept it on your land and out of the sewer drains.

The hard part is that this swale needs to be level so you have made a holding tank, not a creek bed, so you have to dig this swale following the natural curvature of the land mass, and also create as much 'edge' as you can. You need to go across the land area and not from high to low. You don't want it to be straight, but to meander around following the contour of the land. You want the swale to be as long as possible for the best effect, and hundreds of feet, or more,would be better.

My garden is small, but I see a few more ways that I can improve things. My reason for trying to learn as much as I can about the procedure is the property at my son's house. A few mistakes have already been made because of the placement of things, but I think improvements can be made to make things better. He gets almost as much rainfall as we get at our house, but his property doesn't hold it. So much is lost to runoff, that even his ponds go dry. The wind blows hard so evaporation is much greater.

The neighboring property to the north is a farm where they grow beans on almost flat land. A thin row of trees has been left along the fence line, but it is not enough to break up the wind flow much. The land where his house sits, flows southward toward a creek, that is sometimes a raging waterway, but most of the time is low water, but always flowing. There are some natural dips in part of the land mass, but they are open on the end, so the water just flows down to the creek.

In spring when there is a lot of rainfall, and the water table is so high that the pump in his basement has to run to keep the water out, but in the heat of summer the pond that is close to the house will go dry. According to previous owners, the Spring moisture situation started when all of this rural neighborhood went on rural water rather than using their own wells.

There are a lot of issues to look at, but in typical Oklahoma fashion, a lot of land has been cleared of trees, allowing the wind to come sweeping down the plains, and the water to quickly run off of the sloping land mass. I am learning as much as I can about permaculture because I think it is the way to improve his land, which although lovely, still has a few issues. Three fourths of his property is in it's natural state, but the 22 acres around the house could benefit from a few changes.

I have Gaia's Garden on my desk right now and I am about half way through it, but it is mostly for home scale gardening. My favorite 'teacher' has been Geoff Lawton and I never watch one of his video presentation that I don't learn something.

For anyone that is trying to understand this system, I have a few recommendations. The first thing that I recommend is watching a 47 min video that might change your mind about the condition of the world, the need to act quickly to fix some things, and a look at a possible fix (maybe the only one). It is a documentary done by a photographer named John D. Liu.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBLZmwlPa8A

The second thing would be to watch this film. You have to sign in, but it's free. I think Geoff knows that it is important to share his understanding with the world, and feels this is the time to do it. Here is the film, Surviving the Coming Crisis:

http://www.geofflawton.com/fe/32461-surviving-the-coming-crises

Third, I would suggest that you Google: Lawton's Guide to Permaculture Design Strategy, and I think there are 5 or 6 films to watch, but any of his films are good although you are likely to see the same pictures in more than one of them.

Just so you know, I am not a tree-hugger, nor do I believe that the so called 'global warming', is caused by the things the politicians would like to make us believe, but I do believe that much of our planet is in trouble through our own making, not the least of which is modern agriculture practices.

Some of you will likely want to tell me how the US has the greatest and safest food supply in world, and while that may be true, it isn't a perfect system, and we can't feed the entire world. Also, I think we have done some major damage to our own country, and a few more drought years are going to make that even more obvious. Here's hoping it rains....a lot.

There's lots more to it, but this is the part that seems to most closely fit our discussion here. I have attempted to explain it as it comes to mind, the simple mind of a student, not an expert. Hope it helps.

This post was edited by soonergrandmom on Thu, Feb 14, 13 at 15:17

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.15.2013 at 12:45 pm    last updated on: 02.15.2013 at 12:47 pm

How to produce a heavy crop of okra.

posted by: fusion_power on 02.01.2011 at 02:53 am in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Okra should be planted into moderately fertile soil about 2 weeks after the local frost free date. Plant okra in hills with 5 to 8 seed very closely clumped together per hill and each hill about 18 inches apart in rows at least 36 inches wide. If the soil happens to crust, having several seed in one spot will permit them to break through. Once the okra plants reach about 6 inches tall, cull the plants to 2 or 3 per hill leaving more plants for shorter and less vigorous varieties and less plants for more vigorous types. When the plants are 1 foot tall, side dress with a balanced fertilizer with a moderate amount of nitrogen. (Chicken manure would be a bit too high for nitrogen. Rabbit or cow manure would be just about right.) Spray with neem a couple of times to discourage pests. When the plants produce edible pods of okra, harvest the okra for the first 2 or 3 weeks, then stop harvesting and let the plants set a seed crop. If done properly, these steps will bring the plants to an optimum maturity to produce a heavy seed crop. If you do not want seed, just keep harvesting until you are tired of eating okra.

DarJones

NOTES:

Good basic instructions from a dependable gardener.
clipped on: 02.01.2011 at 06:52 am    last updated on: 02.01.2011 at 06:52 am