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Here's the mosaic! Finally!

posted by: becktheeng on 09.03.2009 at 11:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

Finally got the custom mosaic for behind my cooktop in! I helped the artist do it. It's a mixed medium of tile, glass, shells, marbles, stones, etc...it look the two of us about 6 hours to lay it out with thinset. Then the artist came back and grouted it today. I love it...it's a little funky when you are up close, but from far away it's gorgeous. The photos aren't the greatest because I took them under artifical light. Anyway, enjoy...

Overall:
mosaic far away

Up close with flash
mosaic up-close flash

Up close without flash
mosaic up-close no flash

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.04.2009 at 12:48 pm    last updated on: 09.04.2009 at 12:51 pm

Nuccia's kitchen is DONE! See my pictures!!!

posted by: nuccia on 03.28.2008 at 08:00 am in Kitchens Forum

I can't believe my kitchen is finally done! We moved into our new home late September, and finally finished installing the range & hood backsplash in January.

I designed the basic layout of the kitchen over 2 years ago and gave it to our architect so he could design the rest of the house around it. As we all like to cook in my family, the kitchen needed to be able to function well for multiple cooks. It needed to be separate from the rest of the house, but also be a part of it. My goals for the kitchen design were: symmetry, strong focal points, long views, simple rectilinear lines, modern yet timeless, negative/positive space, bold but classic colors.

A HUGE thank you to GW members. From you, I learned about many really wonderful things including: BlueStar range, soapstone, runnels, quartzite, LED lighting, plugmold. Other features that GWers convinced me would be a good thing include a warming drawer and a potfiller. My only regret is that I hadn't found you guys sooner. I will reciprocate as much as I can--you guys are the best!

Here are most of the specs:
-Natural maple shaker style perimeter cabinetry with soapstone countertops.
-Black stained island with White America quartzite countertop.
-Brazilian cherry floors.
-Runnel drainboard in soapstone at left of sink.
-Elkay D bowl stainless sink.
-Grohe K4 stainless faucets.
-Danze stainless potfiller faucet.
-Blanco soap dispensers
-Glass House mosaic navy and stainless tile.
-Kichler pendant lights.
-Glass front lighted upper cabinets.
-Best by Broan 1200 cfm 48" range hood.
-BlueStar 36" gas range.
-Bosch dishwasher.
-Electrolux Icon all-refrigerator and all-freezer.
-Monogram convection oven.
-Monogram warming drawer.
-GE Profile convection/microwave oven.
-Great Room side of peninsulas feature glass display upper cabinet (lighted) and china storage lower cabinet
-Undercabinet low voltage, soft white LED strip lights.
-Stainless plugmold.
-Outside wood fired brick pizza oven.

Kitchen from Great Room
Kitchen from Great Room

Navy glass and stainless mosaic tile backsplash
Navy glass and stainless mosaic tile backsplash

Kitchen toward Breakfast Room
Kitchen toward Breakfast Room

Breakfast Room from kitchen island
Breakfast Room from kitchen island

Kitchen toward porch
Kitchen toward porch

Kitchen from Breakfast Room
Kitchen from Breakfast Room

Kitchen toward Great Room
Kitchen toward Great Room

Kitchen -Baking Center
Kitchen -Baking Center

Undercabinet soft-white LED strip lighting, stainless plugmold
Undercabinet soft-white LED strip lighting, stainless plugmold

Who Wants Pizza?
Who wants Pizza?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.24.2009 at 08:51 pm    last updated on: 08.24.2009 at 08:52 pm

RE: It's August- How is your build progressing? (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: creek_side on 08.09.2009 at 08:42 pm in Building a Home Forum

....just some nichiha and our prairie style windows.

We went with the prairie grids, too. The dark green makes them hard to see in anything but close up photos, but they look great in person.

The front view. We still have a long way to go.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.13.2009 at 10:21 pm    last updated on: 08.13.2009 at 10:22 pm

RE: Best hydronic toekick heater? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lesmis on 05.05.2009 at 01:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Cheri127 we just went through this with our kitchen where we wanted to put cabinetry on a wall that had heater panels. We chose Turbonics heaters based on reviews on here and elsewhere. They were one of the few companies that had a way of recessing it into the toe kick of the cabinetry and then having a white/black/stainless/etc. grill choice that you could order separately. Our electrician is coming tonight to install the switches inside the cabinets (I didn't want the switches mounted on my wall) so I can't speak to how loud they are, but I LOVE how they blend right in. I can say that they were WONDERFUL to work with. I called the Friday before Easter in a panic because the cabinets couldn't be set until these things were installed and they helped me a lot and then drop shipped them directly to me so that I could get them faster. They are sold through Ferguson in my area which is Maryland.

We didn't know much about these and so when we spoke to our regular HVAC guy at the beginning of our whole house remodel he said "sure no problem I can get you those!" When the installer showed up a few weeks ago to install them I almost fell over! They were these ugly brown things with all of the knobs and controls visible on the front which would have been in my toe kick!!! I have custom white painted cabinetry so I said "no way!" They said they could get them in white, but the knobs and switches with all of that ugly writing, etc. would still have been on there so I jumped on trusty GW and did a quick search and came across the Turbonics. We have the kicksters because the room isn't that large and our cabinetmaker had cut out access panels in the bottoms of two base cabinets in case we ever needed to work on or replace whatever unit we selected and the kicksters were a bit smaller. He was so smart to think of this and he just put a removable piece of wood that is screwed down for easy removal. It creates a slight bump in my lower cabinet, but it's not a problem at all and will be so much easier if we need to repair/replace down the road.

Here is a link to the GW discussion about Turbonics and below is a link to their website. I've also included a picture of the grill on mine.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg1213000920024.html

The grill isn't that visible and that's what I wanted!
sun on the soapstone

Good luck!!!

Kat :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Turbonics Toe Kick Heaters

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.06.2009 at 11:36 am    last updated on: 05.06.2009 at 11:37 am

RE: Need help with paint colors and decorating ideas (pics) (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: jan_in_wisconsin on 11.21.2007 at 02:31 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Kittycat,

I empathize with choosing paint colors for a whole house, and while it nearly brought me to tears a number of times, it was worth it in the end, because I appreciate how much it adds to have color on the walls. If I could, in any way, save someone else the difficulty we went through in that process, it would be great.

You mentioned SW Flower Pot, which we have in our kitchen. It appears slightly more brickish red in real life:

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

And, you also mentioned a mustard color, more intense than Ivoire. We used BM Wilmington Tan in our foyer and great room areas, which open to the SW Flower Pot red in the kitchen. They seem to work well together. Also, if you a SW paint, I'm sure the BM color can be matched by the Sherwin Williams folks:

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

I really like the BM historical colors a lot. Hope you find what you're looking for,

Jan

NOTES:

Love the colors.
clipped on: 03.28.2009 at 10:18 pm    last updated on: 03.28.2009 at 10:19 pm

RE: How to keep info and comms organized and clear during reno? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: evilbunnie on 02.23.2009 at 02:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

Having a spreadsheet of the info is great for you, but if you are sharing the info with the GC, you need a hard copy format.

I'd recommend that you have all the contracts and contact info for yourself, GC and subs organized in one place-- either a binder or folder or file box. We needed the plumber's number asap when we sprang a leak, and we (GC and I) didn't have it handy. Nasty. Put it in a defined place, make sure the GC knows it's there, make sure they're copies, not originals (or they'll get lost).

Also, I can't tell you how hard it is to make subs look at your notes/postings. You basically have to hand it to them and get them to acknowledge that they'll look at it. I stapled up the stove installation diagram right over the place where it was to be installed, and the electricians still ignored it and put the plug in the wrong place. The GC fixed it, but really, people, why do you think it was flapping away there? I don't know how to remedy this, but I offer it as a way of saying, you can't assume they'll look at your notes unless you tell them to. That goes for GC and subs too.

I would also recommend that you post your work phone, cell phone and alternate contact info in large type somewhere permanent (so they know where to look) so that no one can say "I did it this way because I couldn't reach you." That's averted a few disasters at my house, and has provided me with ammo when things weren't done right. I can go back and say "Why didn't you call if you couldn't find something or figure something out?"

Finally, try to establish a regular place where you leave notes for the GC and the GC leaves notes for you, either in a notebook left in a permanent place, or a clipboard or whatever. This has been really important in helping me to understand what's happening when I'm not around. Leave plenty of paper and pens -- they never seem to have them, and I get notes written on pieces of 2x4. Cute, but not what you want to take the HOme Depot when you need to buy a part.

I kept all my printed purchase orders, confirmations, etc. in a binder for the kitchen.

Make sure to mark old plans as old, or throw them out. Otherwise, you can end up relying on an old version of the cabinet plan.

And keep checking up on the communication area - because the documents can walk away and get lost. This leads to tiny disasters where the cabinets get installed without the crucial 3" filler that makes them line up. Leading to cabinet installation take 2, take 3 . . .etc.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 02.24.2009 at 07:42 pm    last updated on: 02.24.2009 at 07:43 pm

RE: Layout input please...is this finally The One? (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: rhome410 on 02.05.2009 at 11:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

"The only thing that I was missing was a place to put my KitchenAid! So what else am I missing?"

What else needs to be missing?! ;-D

Having a place to keep and use our mixer was vital in our layout. Of course your plan will work, but I like to have it out and ready to use, not heft it back and forth somewhere. I keep all the flour, sugar, etc. right above (get 'em down, scoop out and put them right back into place), and the measuring utensils, rubber spatulas, mixer parts, etc in the base. I keep ingredients and do the mixing right there. I can then turn and do kneading, rolling out, or filling cookie sheets on the clean island behind. I don't have to unload cabinet contents onto the island, then move them back out of the way to load pans or roll out dough.

I do keep my bread mixer and bread pans in the island directly across...The mixer is lighter to lift, I grind my flour and it's a bigger project, so I just use a few things out of the 'baking center' for that...but it is just a turn away to grab things. I would probably keep that stuff in the baking center, too, but I ran out of room.

Not that mine is the only or the best to show you, but here it is (see the link below for more. I especially remember momto4kids'):

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Here is a link that might be useful: kitchens with baking ctrs on Finished Kitchens Blog

NOTES:

Baking center
clipped on: 02.15.2009 at 05:42 am    last updated on: 02.15.2009 at 05:42 am

glass on mesh 12x12 (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: petra_granite on 01.03.2009 at 12:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

speaking of little glass tiles: these are in 12x12 sheets: These are Busazza: posting picture for fun! $85 per sheets: comes in tons of colors:

bathroom

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.11.2009 at 06:48 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2009 at 06:48 pm

RE: Do you have a TV in your kitchen? (Follow-Up #71)

posted by: maydl on 01.03.2009 at 01:11 am in Kitchens Forum

Here's ours:
New TV/Bar

And here's where the cable box is located. All the wires travel through a conduit inside the wall:
TV/Bar Cabinet Innards

We don't have a "real" family room, so we planned the sunroom end of our kitchen to remedy, in a small way, that lack. The 42-inch flat screen TV is located on a short wall between the kitchen end of the room and the sunroom end. It is on a full-extension mount that can be pulled out and rotated so that it can be seen from either from either end. We also have a small bistro table and chairs for two directly in front of the TV:
New Kitchen Layout

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.11.2009 at 06:15 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2009 at 06:17 pm

RE: Do you have a TV in your kitchen? (Follow-Up #43)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 01.01.2009 at 07:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

People with tv's in their kitchens are degenerate bourgeois exploiters of the proletariat.
Here's mine:
Worthwhile viewing
Happy New Gear!
Casey

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.11.2009 at 06:12 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2009 at 06:12 pm

RE: Do you have a TV in your kitchen? (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: holligator on 01.01.2009 at 04:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've never had a TV in my kitchen and couldn't decide if I wanted one in the new kitchen. So, I made a spot that could accommodate one if I ever decide to put it there. I wanted this spot for multiple uses, as well as to visually break up the wall of pantry cabinets. The TV possibility is just really a bonus. I haven't had the urge to get one yet (for many of the reasons posted here), but there are electrical and cable outlets installed there (behind the bottles) if I ever do. Here's my spot...

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.11.2009 at 06:10 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2009 at 06:11 pm

RE: cooktop and built-in oven vs. slide in range (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: buehl on 12.10.2008 at 05:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

Before you go the undercounter oven route, please go to an appliance store or kitchen place and try the undercounter ovens yourself. In general, an oven mounted undercounter will be much closer to the floor than an oven in a range. We originally considered it but when we saw how low the oven would be, we knew it was definitely not for us. When opened, the handle was just an inch or so off the floor! A range has the oven directly under it w/o having to allow extra space for circulation, etc. that you have to have b/w a cooktop & oven, so the oven can be higher off the floor than a separate oven. You also get the added benefit in a range of a storage drawer, a WD, a small second oven, or other configuration.

In the end, we went w/a cooktop w/double wall ovens mounted in a tall oven cabinet. The bottom oven is higher off the ground than an oven in a range. Under the cooktop are cooking utensils in the top drawer and pots & pans used at the cooktop in the bottom two drawers. It's rare that anyone needs something out of one of the drawers when someone is standing in front of the cooktop. (Prep tools are off to the side and the baking utensils are on the baking peninsula.)

Casserole dishes, cake pans, cooling racks, etc. are stored near the ovens (drawer under the ovens & tray storage above the ovens).

NOTES:

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clipped on: 12.11.2008 at 05:45 pm    last updated on: 12.11.2008 at 05:57 pm

RE: Lighting Question (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mamadadapaige on 12.11.2008 at 02:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Katie,
I highly recommend either Seagull or Kichler Linear Undercabinet Lighting.

I really like Visual comfort lighting and used a lot of it in my house. good luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: visual comfort

NOTES:

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clipped on: 12.11.2008 at 05:25 pm    last updated on: 12.11.2008 at 05:25 pm

RE: Replacing trash compactor with pull-out (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: gizmonike on 12.06.2008 at 01:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

We did, meaning we chose a trash pull-out in our new kitchen instead of a trash compactor, same size space. We actually put two trash pull-outs into our kitchen, one in the cleanup area near DW & sink, and the other on the far side of our island near refrigerator & pantry. Our pull-outs hold two plastic trash bins, which are removable & replaceable. We use the front one for trash & the back one for recycling. (The City of Dallas does not require us to sort recyclables & provides a "free" recycling bin along with our trash service.)

We also have space for a small drawer above our trash pullouts. One we use for wine openers, stoppers, etc. The other we "sacrificed" to provide electrical outlets to that side of the island. The drawer "front" flips up for the outlets or down to cover them.

7.Outlets exposed above pullout

5.Hidden outlet above pullout

NOTES:

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clipped on: 12.06.2008 at 02:50 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2008 at 02:51 pm

RE: and so it begins... (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: caryscott on 11.21.2008 at 11:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

So fridge arrived safely this time and with the promise of a small gratuity she got them to move the stove into the kitchen as well.

Fridge:

Maytag

Stove:

Whirlpool Gold

The big success of the day was the Glide-n-Guard floor protectors - the delivery guys had never seen them before, they liked them so much they wanted to know where to get them.

Glide-n-Guard
Glide-n-Guard

Below is roughly how it works, they provide instructions on how to cut the length down so they don't stick out like they do in these renderings. Works better with her fridge than her stove because feet for stove are right at the front but I think I just need to play with the positioning a little more.

Photobucket

She had a weird phone conversation with the countertop folks, the woman we usually deal with was away, so we will drop in tomorrow and try to get the install scheduled for Tuesday. After a little on-line moulding hunting after hours I actually got to come to my own home tonight, hooray! Moulding shopping tomorrow - I hope it is going to be easier than I think it will be (just one stop would be great). Inching closer.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.24.2008 at 07:06 am    last updated on: 11.24.2008 at 07:06 am

RE: Help-- can I remove part of my backsplash (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: morton5 on 11.21.2008 at 01:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, here's what we did with the backsplash. My range is bumped out in an extra-deep cabinet run, and is vented with an island-mount hood. I took the backsplash down to the top of the cabs and ran a 10" shelf behind the hood. The shelf is the Ikea Lack shelf-- it is about 2 inches thick and mounts with hidden brackets. It so happens that I have outlets above my oven cab and fridge cabs, both of which are wired to the switch next to my range, by the toaster. I've toyed with adding lights to the underside of the shelf, but after taping up a couple didn't like the glare. I will probably put a couple of colored glass bowls on the shelf, and underlight them with some some thin (1/8" thick) LED disks from Ikea. As you can see, we still haven't painted up there yet-- the drywall had to be redone in that section after the backsplash came down. It was painful to redo it, but now I'm happy with the result.
Photobucket

NOTES:

fire and ice backsplash tile
clipped on: 11.21.2008 at 03:31 pm    last updated on: 11.21.2008 at 03:32 pm

Sneak Peek of Almost Finished Kitchen!

posted by: cookin45 on 11.14.2008 at 10:02 am in Kitchens Forum

So I thought I'd try my photo posting skills with a couple of pictures of our nearly finished kitchen! We are so close! The hood and dishwasher are going in as I type! The first picture is of our new "pantry" - we tried to make it look like a dining hutch and the second picture is from a few weeks ago before the backsplash was installed. Please excuse the mess and the paper covering the floors!

New Pantry

Photobucket

NOTES:

top picture is pantry...might work for broom closet/hutch area of our kitchen
clipped on: 11.14.2008 at 06:00 pm    last updated on: 11.14.2008 at 06:01 pm

RE: Slate or slate look-a-like on kitchen floor (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: berf on 11.13.2008 at 09:39 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi-I've got natural cherry cabs, soapstone counters, stainless and black appliances. We used sheet vinyl--believe it or not--in our kitchen. Hubby and I both have joint issues and cannot stand on tile/stone for longer than a minute.
I LOVE this floor and everyone thinks it's fieldstone when they see it in person. It was a high end Mannington so not much cheaper at all than the real thing--but better for us. Here are some mediocre pics of it...
Photobucket

Photobucket

NOTES:

Love this floor! Vinyl - need for bad back!
clipped on: 11.14.2008 at 09:44 am    last updated on: 11.14.2008 at 09:45 am

RE: DIY copper countertop (Follow-Up #103)

posted by: circuspeanut on 07.19.2008 at 03:57 pm in Metalworking Forum

Well, we did it. It's a lot of work, but I can say that these countertops are gorgeous and well worth the time invested. And they cost me about $21/sf total, which is almost as pleasing as the knowledge that they are fairly green and can be repurposed by whomever comes after me.

1. Create the substrate out of mdf. We used fairly nice stuff made ostensibly from recycled fiber. We glued two 3/4" sheets together with construction cement, then screwed them tightly from the bottom (we wanted the top absolutely smooth so as not to have to use levelling compound. Later this became vital since the adhesive we used was fabulous for gluing copper to mdf, but not to anything else).
Clamped overnight. Then cut with table saw and dry-fit them to the cabs:

2. Then I flipped the pieces over and applied RedGard waterproofing membrane on the bottom and back -- everywhere we weren't gluing copper. Just in case, since it is a kitchen. It's awful gloppy stuff that you roll on like liquid plastic and dries bright red:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

3. Next we took 1/4" by 1.5" copper barstock and mitered it just like wood to fit the edges. It cut just fine on an old compound miter saw with a high-tech metal-cutting blade by Tenryu. Glued it to the mdf using TC-50 adhesive by Better Bond, clamped it well:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

4. I was highly impressed by the TC-20 adhesive: no VOC and it set enough to handle lightly in about 15 minutes. We kept the edging clamped for a few hours just in case. All edged, a counter piece looked like this:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

5. Cut the top copper sheet with a metal blade on the jigsaw. Dry fit it with about 1/4" to 1/2" to spare. We used 20oz Revere copper sheet from a local building materials supplier. It comes in 3foot and 4foot widths up to 120" long.
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

6. Glued that sucker on! Nerve-wracking, but in retrospect the easiest part of the entire job. We fit as many factory-cut edges to the countertop edges as was feasible, then J-rolled the whole schmear and clamped it but good on all sides, using extra mdf scraps as buffers so as not to dent the copper with clamps:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

7. Used a router to trim all the necessary edges to just barely overlapping the edging, if at all. No pics, sorry. As aliceinwonderland can attest, do this outside in the driveway or garage if at all possible!!

8. Then we sanded it up using 180 grit. The copper is almost shockingly workable -- you can put whatever pattern you'd like into it with the sander, a hammer, whatever. [I'd suggest waiting to do this until after you've glued the smooth sheets first, for optimal adhesion.] I worked my way up to about 600grit mesh on the orbital sander, just to make it nice and smooth.

9. I'm glad we decided to do the edging first, since this put the main seam on the side rather than top, and it's virtually invisible from just a little distance away:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

10. I was still concerned about durability and the seam opening up, so I went back and stuffed some Just For Copper epoxy onto/into it. Sanded it back down so the seam is very tiny and smooth, and I feel better knowing that it's probably bombproof. It's obvious that the seam will pretty much vanish as the copper oxidizes, too.
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

11. Due to an L-shape, we did have one place where we absolutely had to join two sheets on top. We used the factory-cut edges for these, and then I epoxied atop the line with Just For Copper and sanded it well. Over time, the line will hopefully become less noticeable as well, though it doesn't look bad (honestly, the photos make it look much worse than it is):
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic


Ta dah!
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

So that's that! Feel free to contact me with any questions, but better yet post them here for everyone to benefit -- this thread was my sole inspiration and guidance during the process.
Cheers and my heartfelt thanks to jenathegreat, aliceinwonderland, and all of you for the inspiration.

NOTES:

If not in kitchen, maybe in studio.
clipped on: 11.08.2008 at 09:22 am    last updated on: 11.08.2008 at 09:22 am

RE: fire & ice backsplash (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: favabeans5 on 10.10.2008 at 11:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

coliseum stone and tile quoted me $13.65 with $67 shipping and tax etc comes out to $16.57/SQ FT

NOTES:

Love the fire and ice!
clipped on: 11.07.2008 at 01:43 pm    last updated on: 11.07.2008 at 01:44 pm

RE: New Floor is in and I'm in Love (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: donna214 on 11.05.2008 at 10:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks rhome. Most of what I know about tung oil I learned on GW, mostly over on the Flooring Forum. The reason we chose it is because of our two very active dogs and the scratches they have made on the poly finished floors in the rest of our house. Apparently, the scratches I see are mostly in the poly finish, not the wood. With tung oil, if you get a scratch, just rub some more tung oil on it and buff it out. At the end of our project, we will have the rest of the floors on the first floor re-sanded and finished with the tung oil. On the new floors, we are doing one coat of tung oil now, and 2 more at the end of the project when the rest of the floors are done. It will take a few days to dry, so we will need to leave the house for a few days.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.06.2008 at 07:18 am    last updated on: 11.06.2008 at 07:19 am

RE: 42' cabinets with 8 ft ceilings (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: buehl on 11.02.2008 at 11:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

How level is your floor? Ceiling? If they both aren't perfectly level and equi-distant b/w foor & ceiling everywhere there will be cabinets, there may be problems with putting in crown molding.

Be careful about less than 18" b/w counters & upper cabinets + light rail (yes, don't forget about the light rail to hide undercabinet light fixtures!)

Are you replacing the flooring? If you are and you're replacing vinyl w/hardwood or tile, you may have less than 8' b/w floor & ceiling.

Before you commit, calculate:

Flooring height (subflooring + wood or tile + thinset (if tile))

Base cabinet height (usually 34.5")

Countertop height (usually 1.25 to 1.5")

Height of tallest small appliance you will be using on the counter (even if it isn't used or stored underneath the upper cabinets, you still need maneuvering room) + 1/4" (e.g, height of coffeemaker or mixer + 1/4")

Light rail height (usually around 1", may be more or less...our is 1-3/8")

Upper cabinet height (30" or 42" in your case...your cabinet company really doesn't offer 36"...I'm really surprised about that)

Crown molding--whatever is left


Check out these threads for more information:

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg101550018567.html

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0910283632346.html

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg101330121962.html

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.03.2008 at 08:51 am    last updated on: 11.03.2008 at 08:51 am

RE: GE Advantium owners - ever wish for 2nd microwave??? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: swatts1 on 06.17.2008 at 10:07 pm in Appliances Forum

We have a Monogram Advantium, with a Trivection beneath. Our children are grown and we fully expected to use the Advantium for the majority of our oven cooking. After several uses I found myself using the big oven to keep the microwave free. I've even run upstairs to the kitchenette on the 2nd floor to use the microwave. I believe I'll put a small, inexpensive Microwave in the adjacent pantry/laundry room.

NOTES:

consider when deciding on appliances & locations
clipped on: 10.30.2008 at 08:20 am    last updated on: 10.30.2008 at 08:21 am

I have a picture of the Cafe Brown Silgranit!

posted by: cassieanne3 on 10.22.2008 at 06:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

I know some of you have been wanting a real life picture of this sink, so here it is. It arrived today in perfect condition all the way to Alaska!
It won't be installed for quite a while yet, but I will post a photo once it is. I have decided to go with oil rubbed bronze for my faucet. I hope they look nice together. I don't have the faucet yet.

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clipped on: 10.23.2008 at 06:52 am    last updated on: 10.23.2008 at 06:53 am

RE: Sinks- Undermount vs. Overmount (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: jessie21 on 10.21.2008 at 06:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

I never understood the hoopa over undermounted sinks and was pretty sure I would stay with a drop in. Then I realized I wanted a bit more of a modern feel and decided to go for it. I have got to tell you that my undermount sink and faucet are WONDERFUL....I absolutely LOVE them and am so glad I haunt this place so much....otherwise I never would have done it. By the way, my counter is done in a corain-like solid surface (LG HI MAC Volcanics), which I also love.....So smooth and clean!!

I will caution you that imo, you should go with a positive or neutral reveal. Otherwise, you do end up with that toilet bowl rim syndrome, as I call it. My positive reveal looks great and there is not a big silicone line or anything showing.

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clipped on: 10.22.2008 at 01:24 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2008 at 01:24 pm

RE: Sinks- Undermount vs. Overmount (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: buehl on 10.21.2008 at 05:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

Kmgard...the "nook" you're talking about is only present if you have a "negative reveal". There are 3 different "reveals" for an undermount sink:
  • Positive Reveal. The sink shows; granite cutout is slightly larger than sink
  • Negative Reveal. The granite overhangs the sink; granite cutout is slightly smaller than the sink
  • Zero Reveal or Flush. Sink & granite are flush or even; the granite cutout & sink are the same size

Check out the thread linked below. More details about undermount sinks are listed at the bottom of the thread.

Here is a link that might be useful: Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

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clipped on: 10.22.2008 at 01:21 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2008 at 01:22 pm

I know it's not in my kitchen, but I love my granite!

posted by: snowyshasta on 10.14.2008 at 11:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

We're still waiting on the kitchen granite (soon) but they installed the granite in our master bathroom shower, and I'm in love!

Shower granite

It's Costa Esmerelda and I just love the patterning and the color. Looking forward to our kitchen counters going in, too, so I have more granite to enjoy :-)

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clipped on: 10.15.2008 at 08:24 am    last updated on: 10.15.2008 at 08:24 am

RE: Anyone REGRET getting a silgranite sink? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lukkiirish on 09.11.2008 at 05:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've been doing some extensive research on them myself and found them at HD. Although HD carries them under the name of Pegasus, (their house brand) they are actually made by Blanco, the maker of Silgrant sinks. I have also not been able to find 1 negative comment about these sinks yet.

I'm from S Cal too, moved out of state a couple of years ago, it surprises me your KD hadn't heard of them especially with the amount of higher end homes there.

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clipped on: 10.13.2008 at 06:49 am    last updated on: 10.13.2008 at 06:49 am

RE: Care to share your best kitchen storage ideas? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: dianalo on 07.28.2007 at 10:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi,
I copied the following from the IKEA fans website a few months back. I love the ingenuity...
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

So now you can tell your contractor it does not take a lot of space to make a broom closet, lol.
HTH

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clipped on: 10.07.2008 at 02:34 pm    last updated on: 10.07.2008 at 02:35 pm

RE: My backsplash is in--very happy! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: annes_arbor on 10.07.2008 at 12:22 am in Kitchens Forum

So glad y'all like the tiles. I think they are amazing. They are from Welbeck Tile in England. A major splurge (especially given the current exchange rate), but I fell in love, and what's a girl to do! LOL

I don't know what the glaze is exactly, but it is definitely platinum color and metallic looking. Brenda Bates, the owner of Welbeck, is wonderful. She will send you samples of tiles and create a design for free.

Mustbnuts: Glad you like the handles. They are from Allied Brass.

NOTES:

This goes with photos of beautiful tiles posted by annes arbor.
clipped on: 10.07.2008 at 02:10 pm    last updated on: 10.07.2008 at 02:11 pm

My backsplash is in--very happy!

posted by: annes_arbor on 10.06.2008 at 11:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

So happy that my backsplash is installed. I love it. Here are some pictures. The tiles are handmade and very uneven; this necessitated pretty wide grout lines, but I think it works. Also, the 4 tiles in the middle behind the range are "platinum" coated. They're really beautiful in a way the photo doesn't capture. (Thank you GW for introducing me to plugmold!!!)

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

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clipped on: 10.07.2008 at 02:05 pm    last updated on: 10.07.2008 at 02:08 pm

RE: 36' single bowl vs. 36' double bowl - which is truly most use (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: buehl on 09.30.2008 at 10:00 am in Kitchens Forum

LOL! "Usefulness" depends on (1) what you plan to use it for and (2) personal preference. This is a common question and you will find avid adherents on both sides...the double-bowl lovers and the single-bowl lovers. You will most likely here from both.

So, where do I stand? I'm a double-bowl person! We have a 2-bowl 36" sink. It's the Ticor S405D (which, btw, comes w/grids & strainers & drains).

We use our larger bowl for stacking dirty dishes (it holds so much & hides them so well!) The smaller bowl is used for soaking flatware & utensils when cleaning up. Our GD is in the larger bowl. Our larger bowl is big enough to fit our largest cookie sheet or pan flat in the bottom. If we only had one sink, the smaller would probably be for prep, but we do have a prep sink.

Dimensions:
.....Overall: 35-1/8" x 20-7/8" x 9"
.....Larger: 21-3/8" x 18-3/4" x 9"
.....Smaller: 10-1/2" x 15-7/8" x 7"

Smaller bowl w/8qt stock pot:

Our first spaghetti dinner in our new kitchen!

Larger bowl after a marathon baking session & another w/cookie sheet in bottom:

First use of baking center...cleanup!

Sink &amp; Largest Cookie Sheet

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clipped on: 10.01.2008 at 06:04 am    last updated on: 10.01.2008 at 06:06 am

Owners of Thermador Columns - Question!

posted by: dlspellman on 09.29.2008 at 02:30 pm in Appliances Forum

I am at the point I am suppose to replace the charcoal filter in the freezer unit (for the ice maker) of my Thermador Column Freezer. I went to Thermador's website to look for replacement filters, they were $43.70 each - ouch!, given you are SUPPOSE to change in every 6 months.... that's nearly a $100 a year - wasn't planning on that...

For you who have owned this unit a while - how often are you replacing the filter and where are you purchasing them?
Also, the manual alludes to using a "substitute" cartridge that in not their brand....anyone done that? What's been your experience such as price, brand you are using, where to buy, do they seem to be doing the job okay, etc?

Thanks for your help!

Oh, has anyone else who did the cabinet fronts had a problem with the doors shifting a bit. ie) rubbing in the center, dropping, etc. I had mine adjusted once, but now they are doing it again. Seems to be some play in the hinges - is that normal?

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clipped on: 09.30.2008 at 06:25 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2008 at 06:26 pm

lightlystarched...did you order that wallpaper backsplash?

posted by: rmlanza on 09.21.2008 at 05:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

Just curious how it's turning out for you? And I wanted to thank you for posting about it. I mentioned in your post how much I loved the birds on a branch wall sticker from that Ferm site. Well I had just painted my dining room and being a big lover of birds I thought I would order that sticker. But then I thought, being that it cost $100, that I could just paint it on myself. If I didn't like it then I'd just paint over it and I wouldn't be losing out on $100 plus shipping! So I wanted to show you my results...oh, and since there are 5 people in my family I left off the last bird on the branch. Anyway, maybe you'd want to think about painting a mural for a backsplash instead of wallpapering it, then you could cover it with clear glass to protect it or wall paper over it if you didn't like it. The trees wouldn't be hard to paint at all. Here's my birds on a branch mural:
Photobucket
Photobucket
And okay, so I liked it so much I added another bird flying in from the corner:
Photobucket
And one on the door frame between the kitchen and dining room:
Photobucket

Now I'm working on my formal living room that we use as the kid's playroom but still want to look like a living room. It is separated from the dining room by the white wood archway you can see in the flying bird picture. I'm thinking of painting a big tree silhouette in there. You really got me going on this! Thanks for posting that site, just loved their stuff and it really gave me some fun ideas! And mine were FREEEEE!!!

Robin

Here is a link that might be useful: Ferm Living

NOTES:

She has a great idea to paint mural and then use glass for backsplash! Love it!
clipped on: 09.21.2008 at 11:06 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2008 at 11:07 pm

RE: Anyone Know About Lyptus or African Ribbon Mahogany? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: laura_a on 08.25.2008 at 12:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

We did lyptus in one of our flips:

I would totally use it again - it's breathtaking wood! This kitchen was custom by a local craftsman. (And seen on TLC's Flip That House if you ever watch that show...)

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clipped on: 09.20.2008 at 08:18 pm    last updated on: 09.20.2008 at 08:19 pm

RE: my finished cherry and copper kitchen new pics and info. (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cdecker1 on 09.20.2008 at 06:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Lets try again!

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She handpainted the border tiles! Gorgeous!
clipped on: 09.20.2008 at 07:40 pm    last updated on: 09.20.2008 at 07:41 pm

RE: Foot Pedal for Trash OR Tapmaster? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: buehl on 08.23.2008 at 02:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

As far as I know Jbrazmania, no one has managed to figure out a way to use it with inset doors...framed, yes, but inset...not yet anyway!

For those interested, the Hfele foot pedals are designed for frameless cabinets. However, our own MeToo2 figured out a way to use them w/framed cabinets. See below for MeToo2's instructions and links to pictures in the Gallery:


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


From the "Pull Out Trash" thread started by ColdTropics on Fri, Jul 20, 07 at 2:43


Posted by metoo2 (My Page) on Wed, Aug 15, 07 at 19:27

Front View when cabinet is shut:
Hafele Foot Pedal Door Opener view when door is shut. Face frame cabinets-full overlay.
.....http://photos.gardenweb.com/home/galleries/2007/08/pull_out_trash_foot_pedal_fron.html?cat=kitchens

View of foot pedal when cabinet is open. Keep in mind this view will be hidden when trash cans are in the cabinet:
Hafele foot pedal door opener. Portion of the foot pedal attached to face frame bottom.
.....http://photos.gardenweb.com/home/galleries/2007/08/pull_out_trash_foot_pedal_door.html?cat=kitchens

Metal plate mounted on bottom back of door. This is the plate that is 3.5" tall--to deal with a face framed cabinet:
Hafele foot pedal door opener. This is the metal plate that must be mounted on the inside bottom of the door. I had to make a plate 3.5" tall in order to work with a face frame cabinet.
.....http://photos.gardenweb.com/home/galleries/2007/08/pull_out_trash_foot_pedal_meta.html?cat=kitchens

Finally, looking at the bottom of the cabinet. Glued a scrap of wood to the back of the face frame.
Hafele foot pedal door opener. View from the front bottom of the cabinet. Note that I glued a scrap piece of wood to the back of the face frame to reinforce the installation.
.....http://photos.gardenweb.com/home/galleries/2007/08/pull_out_trash_foot_pedal_unde.html?cat=kitchens


Posted by metoo2 (My Page) on Wed, Aug 15, 07 at 20:01

muscat: The rails are always attached to the door-regardless of whether your trash cans hang from a rail, or your trash cans sit on a base. In your picture, the cans sit on a base.

I believe that my modifications will also work with your situation (cans sitting on a base). However, you will need to make one minor modification that I did not do. That modification has to do with the elastic cords that come with the pedal.

Elastic cords (ie, bungee cords) pull the door open when the pedal is kicked. You would have to alter where the front of the cords are mounted inside the cabinet. Very easy to do.

Earlier posts on this thread refer to a version of the Hafele pedal for trash cans which sit on a base. I have not seen this product. I suspect they use the identical pedal, but altered the instructions relative to the location where to mount the elastic cords.


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


Hafele foot pedal (502.15.220) for bins hanging from rails (see bottom of page):
.....http://www.kitchensource.com/trash/ha-5-44.htm

Hafele foot pedal (502.15.113) for bins sitting in pullout "drawer/shelf" (see bottom of page):
.....http://www.kitchensource.com/trash/ha-5-43.htm

Note: As of today and as far as I know, Hafele is the only manufacturer of foot pedals for trash pullouts. BTW...These Hafele pedals can be found at other sites than the links above.

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clipped on: 09.20.2008 at 03:15 pm    last updated on: 09.20.2008 at 03:16 pm

RE: For those with dish drawers.... (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: rhome410 on 09.01.2008 at 02:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

Mine are sized similarly to loves2cook4six...We actually have 2 banks of drawers, each at 23" wide and 24" deep.

The top drawers are shallower, about 5" deep. 1 holds 25 cups/mugs, and the other houses little ramekins, custard cups, etc.

The other 4 drawers (2 per bank) have 10" of clearance, but the drawer boxes are 7" deep. In other words, I could store items that rise above the drawer box by 3". One drawer holds 30+ salad plates and 30+ dinner plates, one holds 9 stacks of 4-5 bowls, one holds extra plates and serving pieces, and the last one holds our storage containers (like Tupperware, but not).

These aren't all full at the moment, but here's a photo:
Photobucket

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clipped on: 09.17.2008 at 08:32 am    last updated on: 09.17.2008 at 08:33 am

RE: Would like your opinions on my floor plan...but (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: buehl on 09.12.2008 at 06:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK...do you have a digital camera? If so...
  1. Print out the picture as big as you can
  2. Using the digital camera, take a picture of it.
  3. Download the picture from the camera to your computer
  4. Using something like MS Picture Manager, crop the extraneous stuff (like margins)
  5. Resize it to around 500x500
  6. Save it.
  7. Upload it to PhotoBucket


++++++++++++++++++++++


Another option, if you have MS PowerPoint (and if you don't have a digital camera)

  1. Bring up the document in MS Word.
  2. Switch to "Normal" view. If you still see the picture, stay in this view. If you don't see it, switch to "Print Layout view

    • To switch views, on the menu bar: View --> Normal or Print Layout or other

  3. Set the zoom big enough to fill the page in full screen mode.

    • To change zoom, on the menu bar: View --> Zoom
    • To switch to full screen mode: View --> Full Screen (a button will be shown to click to get out of full screen. It shows up in the lower right corner for me)

  4. Take a screen shot < Alt-Print Screen >
  5. Paste it into MS PowerPoint
  6. Crop the extra stuff
  7. Expand it to fill the entire page
  8. Save it as a JPG file

    • File --> Save As -->
    • Save As Type (box) --> JPEG File Interchange Format (*.jpg)

  9. Continue at Step 4 above


I gave you two ways, the second is more complicated, but either way will work.


HTH!

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clipped on: 09.13.2008 at 02:17 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2008 at 02:18 pm

Master Bath finally finished.

posted by: kevin1727 on 09.01.2008 at 09:19 am in Bathrooms Forum

We haven't decorated yet, but we are moved in and enjoying the results.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bath Photos

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clipped on: 09.02.2008 at 10:07 pm    last updated on: 09.02.2008 at 10:08 pm