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availability of Moen Reflex Technology faucets - hope this helps

posted by: docellie on 09.24.2011 at 09:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

We're just beginning our kitchen and bath projects, and our GC tells us to choose our kitchen faucet quickly. He clearly doesn't know us well enough yet, especially me, as if he did he would know there is no such thing as a quick decision in our house! Anyway, we did our research and headed to a large, well-known kitchen and bath showroom and supply center in the area, thinking we were going to purchase a Hansgrohe. Once we laid our hands on the Moens with the new Reflex technology (they had several models), we knew that was it! But of course we had to go home first and review the specs of the ones we liked before deciding on a model.

We later called the showroom to ask the timeline for ordering any of the Moen faucets that we saw with reflex tech. We were told we were mistaken, that the only model they had in the showroom was the Brantford, and that the others were "only in that section but weren't the new ones"! She went on to say that the Brantford was the only model currently available with the new technology. I may not remember what I had for breakfast, but both DH and I knew she was wrong, as we are compulsive about reading and trying everything when we shop, and these definitely had the new cables and the ball joint.

The info on the Moen website was confusing (front page said one thing, the individual desciptions said another), and the responses here on the forum were different as well. So I sent an email this afternoon to Moen customer service asking for clarification. No more than 10 minutes later the phone rang, with Moen customer service on the other end! She told us that all faucets in the Moen warehouse now have RT, and that the response we received from the supply company (and yes, it was a "Moen Showroom of Distinction") was because the companies all want to move their old merchandise first. She told us to tell the sales rep to order whichever faucet we wanted directly from Moen, and to add the suffix -01 on to the end of the model number, indicating reflex technology. Hope this helps.....we'll be ordering tomorrow.

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clipped on: 10.26.2011 at 11:34 pm    last updated on: 10.26.2011 at 11:34 pm

reRE: Anyone know what this black dust is? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: brickeyee on 05.10.2010 at 05:04 pm in Building a Home Forum

You may also need some grease on the hinge knuckles were they rub each other.


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clipped on: 06.21.2011 at 11:01 pm    last updated on: 06.21.2011 at 11:01 pm

RE: Anyone know what this black dust is? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: brickeyee on 05.10.2010 at 05:02 pm in Building a Home Forum

Vaseline is not a good lubricant for metal on metal contact, nor is sewing machine oil (it will run off).

Some white lithium grease works well.

It does not take more than a thin coat on the hinge pin.


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clipped on: 06.21.2011 at 11:01 pm    last updated on: 06.21.2011 at 11:01 pm

RE: Anyone know what this black dust is? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: brickeyee on 05.11.2010 at 03:47 pm in Building a Home Forum

"I thought silicone was the recommended lubricant for hinges now?"

Silicone is not a lubricant for metal.
It can work on some sliding plastics and such (if the carrier it is in does not attack the plastic).

A very thin coat of white lithium grease on the contact surfaces (pin, inside the knuckles, and the bearing surfaces on the sides of the knuckles) works well.

Put a little on a cotton swab and spread it over the surfaces. Let it dry out for a few hours, than put everything back together.


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clipped on: 06.21.2011 at 10:36 pm    last updated on: 06.21.2011 at 10:36 pm

RE: How often do you use 'boost' on induction? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: plllog on 06.19.2011 at 04:31 pm in Appliances Forum

I don't know if this is true, but I get the feeling that the special ultra low element on the Wolf is a gimmick to look "normal" to people comparing to gas. Other units have a special "low" or "melt" button that all of the induction elements can use. My Gaggenau melts fine on number 1, 1.5, or 2. I don't need a special setting. Just have to watch closely, because toffee caramelizes instantly. :) Well...seems like it. Chocolate is less touchy.

I have used boost on my smallest element, but it seems unnecessary. You can't boost on two different elements in a pairing, so you put the pot you want to boost on the one that boosts. Simple enough.

I use boost a lot on anything liquid. If I'm rewarming homemade soup, I'll boost until the soup starts quivering, then reduce the heat to rewarm thoroughly. I definitely boost when I'm making stock or spaghetti sauce, but somewhere around the fourth or fifth hour, there's too much heat build up and it won't boost any more for the stock to return to boil (that's without opening the drawer, which might help).

If I'm just heating up an empty pan, I find 6 or 7 is adequate, and I'm scared to try higher.

Repac, I've often found that the settings I use on my induction are similar to the ones on the best quality electric coils I grew up with. Some people have trouble transitioning to the numbers, but it didn't affect me at all. Numbers 1-9 with half steps is right on, though my induction doesn't have "high" and "low". It's nothing like the '60's push button coils I had in a rental which had far too few settings. I think that was high, low, and five in between. That said, the pan heats faster and food cooks faster on the induction. That's what you'd expect.

I don't know how to compare low heat. My number 3 on the 2200W (unboosted) element is right for cooking eggs without browning. I usually use 3.5 to 4 for an omelette where I want some brown outside and to wilt/melt the filling on top (with a lid). For melting frozen butter in a small cast iron saucepan, I use number 1.5 on the 1400W (unboosted) small element. Number 2 on the butter and it'll boil by the time it's all melted. I've used number 1 on the same element to melt chocolate chips that I couldn't keep an eye on. That worked fine. Took longer, but didn't scorch or get weird. I've melted baking chocolate with other ingredients on number 2, while stirring. That worked well too. Those are all in the one quart Le Creuset saucier. The eggs are in the wisp thin DeBuyer carbon steel crepe pans (best omelettes I've ever made).

Just to be complete, I brown ground beef on number 5.5-ish on the (unboosted) 1800W, maybe 5 on the 2200W. Depends on my patience to cooks too fast ratio. That's in a Demeyere 7-ply stainless frying pan. I also use that pan for the occasional sear, in the 6-7 range, with the pan good and hot first.

Most wet things, stock, soup, etc., start off in the neighborhood of 6, but for most of the time, if I want to keep it simmering short of a boil, I can turn it down to about 4, once it's good and hot.

I don't know how this compares to the Wolf, but from what I've seen, elements of the same basic size and power cook similarly from brand to brand.


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clipped on: 06.21.2011 at 09:47 pm    last updated on: 06.21.2011 at 09:48 pm

Kerdi Shower Part Deux

posted by: mongoct on 12.17.2009 at 12:22 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here's Part Deux. The original Kerdi Shower thread lost virtually all of the photo links when the forum they were on changed their software and dumped the links. That forum's administrator doesn't know if they're recoverable, so I did a little editing and here's Part Deux. I may ask Gardenweb to delete the original thread.

This thread is to show a few techniques for working with Kerdi membrane.

Shower is a walk-in, about 5' by 7'. Door is at a 45 degree angle in one of the corners.

Walk in to the shower and on the short wall to the immediate right are two supply valves, the lower one supplies the wall mounted handheld, the upper supplies an overhead 12" rainshower head.

Moving counterclockwise from that wall, the long wall to the left of the valve wall is an exterior wall and will get nothing but tile.

To the left of that long exterior wall is the shower's short back wall, it gets a 2-shelf niche. The niche is about 36" wide and 30" tall. The lower niche space is 15" high, the shelf itself is 4" thick, the upper niche space is 11" high.

To the left of the short niche wall is another long wall, this wall has the wall-mounted hand-held. If I recall, the sliding bar is 40" tall.

In the ceiling is a 12" rain shower head. Also four can lights for illimination and a fan for ventilation. Ceiling will be tiled.

The wall construction? Kerdi is a vapor barrier, so no barrier is needed on these walls. Tile backer? With Kerdi you can use drywall. I prefer cement board on the walls. Wonderboard or Durock. I used Wonderboard on these walls. The ceiling and niche is done in Hardie, which is a fiber-cement board. Hardie is less brittle, so for me it's easier to cut into narrow strips to trim out the niche, and not as prone to snapping when installing full sheets overhead. I work solo 95% of the time, so it's not uncommon to hold the sheet up with one hand and have the screw gun in the other.


ABOVE: Valve wall


ABOVE: Niche wall, and on the left you can see the stub out for the hand held


ABOVE: Shows the Wonderboard walls and the Hardie ceiling.




ABOVE: With Kerdi, you don't have to mesh tape and thinset the seams. You can fill the seams with thinset as you hang the Kerdi on the walls. No need for tape as the Kerdi will bridge the joint for you. Just make sure your walls are smooth. If you have any thinset blots or chunks of cement that mushroomed when you drove a screw, knock them down so the walls are smooth. Here I'm striking a pose with a carborundum stone.




ABOVE: Setting a plumb line to hang the first sheet. Just like hanging wall paper. I hold the first sheet about an inch from the inside corner. Sheet is about 39-1/2" wide. I want the thinset to extend about 1" past the edge of the sheet. So I drop a plumb line about 41-1/2" or so from the inside corner, and mark the line vertically every foot or so with a tick mark using a sharpie.




ABOVE: Thinset. This is a little thicker than I want. I want it stiff enough so I can flat trowel it on the wall without it dripping all over or running down the wall, as well as it being able to hold a ridge after it's combed out. Not too stiff, though as you don't want it skinning over before you hang the sheet.

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clipped on: 06.16.2011 at 09:13 pm    last updated on: 06.16.2011 at 09:13 pm

RE: Vent hood poll. (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: alku05 on 03.21.2009 at 07:36 pm in Appliances Forum

Over our 36" Bluestar rangetop we have a 42" x 24" 600CFM VAH. If we had to do it over again, we would have chosen a 27" deep model because we do get some leakage out the front when we stirfry on the front burner.

I completely disagree with clinresga's opinion about the noise; ours is quieter than our microwave even on high. I think how much noise you get with any hood is very dependent on your own individual installation (ie how long your duct is, how many turns etc). We actually chose the VAH because of how easy it is to clean. When we were looking at different brands, we went to stores and took out the parts that needed to be cleaned, so we could compare ease of cleaning. We just put the VAH parts in our dishwasher. They fit fine in our FP dishdrawers and come out clean.

This difference in opinion really emphasizes that there's no one best hood for everyone- you need to pick the one that has the features and cleaning procedures that are best for YOU.


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clipped on: 06.13.2011 at 08:53 pm    last updated on: 06.13.2011 at 08:54 pm

RE: Vent hood poll. (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: clinresga on 03.21.2009 at 05:17 pm in Appliances Forum

We have:
1) 600 cfm 42'' VAH over a Dacor 36'' cooktop. Total BTU's are about 55 or 60K I believe.

Hate it. Loud as he**, even on lowest setting, and only mediocre ventilation performance. Silly "squirrel cage" design a huge pain to clean. Fan and light switches awkwardly mounted under front edge of hood, have to crane neck under to see/use. Overpriced.

2) A custom Modern Aire 64'' x 24'' hood liner, bumped out from the wall about 2-3'', housed in an alcove.

Fantech FKD 10XL inline remote blower 1200 cfm. Coupled with the LD10 silencer, it's virtually inaudible even at 1200 cfm. Phenomenal ventilation performance in our setup. Construction is jewel-like. Gorgeous, pro-style baffles which can be thrown in the dishwasher in just a few seconds. Remote infinitely variable fan control and light switch on dimmer mounted remotely on wall next to range. Price comparable to off the shelf units despite totally custom specs.

It sits over a Lacanche Cluny 1400, 55'' wide, 5 burners plus French top, total BTU's about 80K.

I totally love the MA.


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clipped on: 06.13.2011 at 08:52 pm    last updated on: 06.13.2011 at 08:52 pm

RE: DIY copper countertop (Follow-Up #103)

posted by: circuspeanut on 07.19.2008 at 03:57 pm in Metalworking Forum

Well, we did it. It's a lot of work, but I can say that these countertops are gorgeous and well worth the time invested. And they cost me about $21/sf total, which is almost as pleasing as the knowledge that they are fairly green and can be repurposed by whomever comes after me.

1. Create the substrate out of mdf. We used fairly nice stuff made ostensibly from recycled fiber. We glued two 3/4" sheets together with construction cement, then screwed them tightly from the bottom (we wanted the top absolutely smooth so as not to have to use levelling compound. Later this became vital since the adhesive we used was fabulous for gluing copper to mdf, but not to anything else).
Clamped overnight. Then cut with table saw and dry-fit them to the cabs:

2. Then I flipped the pieces over and applied RedGard waterproofing membrane on the bottom and back -- everywhere we weren't gluing copper. Just in case, since it is a kitchen. It's awful gloppy stuff that you roll on like liquid plastic and dries bright red:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

3. Next we took 1/4" by 1.5" copper barstock and mitered it just like wood to fit the edges. It cut just fine on an old compound miter saw with a high-tech metal-cutting blade by Tenryu. Glued it to the mdf using TC-50 adhesive by Better Bond, clamped it well:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

4. I was highly impressed by the TC-20 adhesive: no VOC and it set enough to handle lightly in about 15 minutes. We kept the edging clamped for a few hours just in case. All edged, a counter piece looked like this:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

5. Cut the top copper sheet with a metal blade on the jigsaw. Dry fit it with about 1/4" to 1/2" to spare. We used 20oz Revere copper sheet from a local building materials supplier. It comes in 3foot and 4foot widths up to 120" long.
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

6. Glued that sucker on! Nerve-wracking, but in retrospect the easiest part of the entire job. We fit as many factory-cut edges to the countertop edges as was feasible, then J-rolled the whole schmear and clamped it but good on all sides, using extra mdf scraps as buffers so as not to dent the copper with clamps:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

7. Used a router to trim all the necessary edges to just barely overlapping the edging, if at all. No pics, sorry. As aliceinwonderland can attest, do this outside in the driveway or garage if at all possible!!

8. Then we sanded it up using 180 grit. The copper is almost shockingly workable -- you can put whatever pattern you'd like into it with the sander, a hammer, whatever. [I'd suggest waiting to do this until after you've glued the smooth sheets first, for optimal adhesion.] I worked my way up to about 600grit mesh on the orbital sander, just to make it nice and smooth.

9. I'm glad we decided to do the edging first, since this put the main seam on the side rather than top, and it's virtually invisible from just a little distance away:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

10. I was still concerned about durability and the seam opening up, so I went back and stuffed some Just For Copper epoxy onto/into it. Sanded it back down so the seam is very tiny and smooth, and I feel better knowing that it's probably bombproof. It's obvious that the seam will pretty much vanish as the copper oxidizes, too.
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

11. Due to an L-shape, we did have one place where we absolutely had to join two sheets on top. We used the factory-cut edges for these, and then I epoxied atop the line with Just For Copper and sanded it well. Over time, the line will hopefully become less noticeable as well, though it doesn't look bad (honestly, the photos make it look much worse than it is):
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic


Ta dah!
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

So that's that! Feel free to contact me with any questions, but better yet post them here for everyone to benefit -- this thread was my sole inspiration and guidance during the process.
Cheers and my heartfelt thanks to jenathegreat, aliceinwonderland, and all of you for the inspiration.

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clipped on: 06.09.2011 at 10:22 am    last updated on: 06.09.2011 at 10:23 am

RE: DIY copper countertop (Follow-Up #101)

posted by: jakes_dad on 07.01.2008 at 12:13 pm in Metalworking Forum

In response to circuspeanut, I found some stuff on-line called TC-20 from BetterBond. This stuff has 45 minute working time, non-flammable, has no VOC's, and cleans up with water.

Back to my project:
As mentioned above, I glued the copper to the plywood with TC-20, and let set for a couple of days. Last Sunday I trimmed the edges with a router. This was down-right scary! Hot copper particles were flying everywhere. I ended up destroying 2 carbide laminate trimming router bits, but am happy with the outcome. My next step is to route the Ogee edge trim from cherry.

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clipped on: 06.09.2011 at 10:19 am    last updated on: 06.09.2011 at 10:19 am

RE: DIY copper countertop (Follow-Up #89)

posted by: wesasla on 01.27.2008 at 01:14 pm in Metalworking Forum

Using all this info is making my own project much easier.Bought appliances over 2 yrs., ebay copper sheet 3 ft. by 10 ft.. As for edges !/2 round oak w/minwax wipe on finish, copper only joint,copper tile backsplash, 18 inch x 36 inch green granite cutting area on cut copper pipe 1/2 inch chairs to create air space under to foil moisture yukkies underneath, it can be moved too. I might try to find some mini-castors and epoxy them to the granite? Copper sinks(2 singles) to go around a corner using the same bronze faucet (cheaper than double sinks). Bar copper at counter sink edges with copper only epoxy. Terrific combo green/copper/oak and everything wipes clean!! BONUS We found the one inch polished, smooth edge granite as a special order never accepted for $15.00.

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clipped on: 06.09.2011 at 10:17 am    last updated on: 06.09.2011 at 10:17 am

RE: DIY copper countertop (Follow-Up #50)

posted by: aliceinwonderland_id on 03.06.2007 at 09:55 am in Metalworking Forum

I've received a few requests, so here are step-by-step instructions for what I did. If you can fold the copper over the edges, I would suggest doing so. I didn't, but only because my countertop was too wide so I had to come up with another method.

1. After the cabinets were installed I built the countertop out of plywood. The first layer was floor-grade 3/4" plywood, screwed down every six inches on the edges and every 8 - 12 inches in the middle, along the cabinet edges. I used decking screws just barely countersunk.

2. Second layer was 1/2" AC plywood, screwed into the first layer every 4-6 inches on the edges and 8-10 inches in the middle. Decking screws, slightly countersunk.

3. Leveling compound (cement based) was used to cover all screw heads and fill in any bad areas on the plywood and along all edges to make them as smooth as possible.

4. After the leveling compound dried thoroughly (24 hours) I sanded is smooth with 100 grit sandpaper and and orbital sander.

5. I measured and marked the locations for the sink and the cooktop and cut them out with a jig saw, then dry-fit both items to make sure they would fit properly.

6. I had a 4' x 10' sheet of 18 oz copper because my countertop was 45" wide in most places and 48" wide at the cooktop. I used solvent-based contact cement (water-based doesn't work on copper). With a small roller, I painted a coat on the copper and two coats on the plywood (top only).

7. Once the contact cement was dry, I cut a whole bunch of thin slats and placed them every 2 - 4 inches on top of the plywood. I found out quickly that dowels would have worked better - round dowels have less surface area to stick than flat slats, but it was still okay. Make sure the dowels or slats are long enough to stick out 6 inches or more on each side of the countertop.

8. I laid the copper sheet on top of the slats and maneuvered it into position. I had to make sure it was exactly right because I had about 1/2 centimeter of overhang in one spot so it had to be perfect.

9. Starting in the middle, I pulled out a few slats and pressed the copper into place with a J-roller, working my way out to each end. Then I crawled up on the countertop and rolled over the whole thing with the J-roller to ensure it was stuck down completely with no bubbles.

10. I let it sit for 24 hours to allow the contact cement to cure.

11. Now I had all this copper overhang to deal with. I ended up using a router with an edging bit to cut off the copper. This worked really well - copper is so soft it's about like working with wood. One CAUTION: This was a huge mess. I had to cover every surface in the kitchen to do this because little copper curlyques flew everywhere. I still find some now and then and it's been 8 months since I did this.

12. For the edges, I bought 1.5" X 1/8" copper bar. I mitered the ends, just like you would with wood and dry fit all the pieces to make sure they would fit properly. I tried gluing them with contact cement, but just couldn't manage to get a good bond. I hadn't make my edges quite smooth enough. So, I ended up using tite-grip construction adhesive. It worked really well.

13. Now I had a few gaps here and there, particularly in the corners where the copper bar came together and some at the junction of the copper bar and the copper sheet. I used a product called "just for copper." This is a small tube of copper epoxy that has copper dust mixed with it. When it dries, it has the look of aged copper, and is strong enough to repair copper pipe. I smooshed (nice technical term there) the epoxy into all of the gaps and let it cure. This stuff is a little on the stiff side and not super easy to work with. You can't get it perfectly flat and smooth. I let it cure 24 hours.

14. I sanded the epoxy, starting with 80 grit sandpaper to flatten and smooth it. I also sanded my corners to round them out a bit. The sanding took forever. I went down to 300 grit sandpaper and then sanded the entire countertop surface with this grit. This took a little of the shine off the countertop and allowed it to age more quickly.

Of all the steps, ensuring the wood base is flat and SMOOTH, SMOOTH, SMOOTH is the most important. That will determine directly how much work will have to be done with the copper epoxy to make it all work and look nice.

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clipped on: 06.09.2011 at 09:58 am    last updated on: 06.09.2011 at 09:58 am