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RE: Framing a GOG .. question (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mosaicwench1 on 11.06.2007 at 09:53 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

My stained glass store has raw wood stock for framing stained glass and mosaics. The stock is milled and then kerfed so the glass fits right in (like a traditional picture frame but sturdier).

Mosaic GOG adds a lot of weight and I don't think silicone will hold if you are talking about reinforcing the frame with it. I would make sure the corners were braced very well before hanging it.

I like cleats or French cleats to hang heavy objects.

Here is a link that might be useful: cleat hangers

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clipped on: 11.06.2007 at 10:58 pm    last updated on: 11.06.2007 at 10:58 pm

RE: Morton Portable Glass Shop - Slow and Others (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: crystal01 on 06.18.2007 at 02:37 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Annie,

Cut a strip (for this example lets say a 1" wide strip.)

Set your bar at a 60 degree angle. (I'm right handed so my bar is going to the left)

Score and remove a small scrap from the strip.

Using the scrap and the orange Cutter Gauge set the yellow Glass Stop at the end of the scrap.

Move the glass strip to the yellow Glass Stop.
Score and remove the 1st diamond.

After making the 1st diamond, check your accuracy by rotating the diamond to the strip as shown. The diamond, in this position, must be the same width as the strip. If the diamond is not the same width, adjust the Glass Stop.
If you made adjustments to the yellow Glass Stop, recheck the 2nd diamond.

Photos and instructions on page 20 of the instruction book.

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clipped on: 11.03.2007 at 11:59 pm    last updated on: 11.04.2007 at 12:00 am

Making glass tiles

posted by: bamasusanna on 07.12.2007 at 01:58 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

I couldn't stand it. I had to try this today. Slow inspired me to try this!
I used clear glue chip glass (frost texture). I cleaned it really well and painted the texture side with metalic paints. After that dried, I painted again with a silver spray paint (it was all I had. I would've preferred black)I figured it would cover any areas I had missed and perhaps make the other colors deeper.
When that dried, I decided to cut it into smaller tiles.
When I cut from the front..smooth side, the paint kinda "tore" when I snapped it. So I turned it over and scored from the painted side. That worked great.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Here is another piece of painted glass. I haven't cut it into smaller tiles yet.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 11.03.2007 at 11:56 pm    last updated on: 11.03.2007 at 11:56 pm

Tutorial 4 craftylady morton diamonds

posted by: chickeemama on 10.28.2007 at 08:32 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Ok here goes...I am not a teacher but I will try!!!! This will be for a 60 degree diamond.

1. I am assuming you already have your strip of glass cut..if not cut a strip of glass to your desired width. Your bar lock will go into hole 16 on the right side of the cutting bar. To do other angles look on page 5. of your booklet

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2. You need to cut a piece of scrap off the glass to make your first 60 degree angle. DONT THROW THIS PIECE AWAY. I have marked my piece with a "T" so you can see where the top is.

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Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

3. Now this is the tricky part..turn the piece of scrap over, bring down the cutting gauge on the cutting bar and place the glass as shown. You can now see the "T" through the backside of the glass. Place your Glass stop in the hole closest to the piece of scrap and tighten down so the scrap is sitting against the glass stop and against the cutting gauge. Move cutting gauge back up to top of the cutting bar. Remove piece of scrap glass.

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Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

4. Put your strip of glass back under the cutting bar, with first 60 degree angle facing to the left. Cut your first diamond. If the first diamond placed on the glass strip (sorry no pic for this) is wider adjust the glass stop to the right. If the strip is wider adjust to the left.

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Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

I hope this makes it a little clearer!!!!!

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clipped on: 10.31.2007 at 08:28 pm    last updated on: 10.31.2007 at 08:28 pm

RE: Tumbling glass - questions (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: silvamae on 06.21.2006 at 08:11 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

I am the glass tumbling queen. I will be glad to help if I can. I own four Lortone tumblers and I nip stained glass into random shapes and tumble it along with water and grit that I buy from Ebersole (but sand might work just as well). If I just want to take off the sharp edges, I tumble it for less than 24 hours. If I want to really dull it and make it resemble beach glass or natural stone, I tumble it for four days. I also tumble the edges of plates, also for only 24 hours (or less). If you are not sure, just lift the barrel off the tumbler, open it, and check one of the pieces. I have learned that if you tumble glass or plate pieces: You will lose any gold gilt from the plates, and any iridescence from the stained glass. (By the way, I received the tumblers as a gift and I was so scared of them, I waited a whole year before I got brave enough to use them. Hahaha, it is sooo simple, just fill them over 3/4 full, add a couple of tablespoons of grit, add water to almost cover, put the lids on, and plug them in. That is all! They are so simple. Mine run in the garage, and they are not very noisy; we don't ever hear them.

Here is a link that might be useful: Keep Art Alive

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clipped on: 10.22.2007 at 02:33 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2007 at 02:33 pm

Need mosaic advice

posted by: marquest on 09.09.2007 at 09:27 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

I want to make this. I have brought two types of pots I think are options for the skirt. The pots are 36" so they are big. The finished ornament will be 4' tall. I am going to invert a large flower pot and the bottom would be up around where I would make the waist and chest.

Which of these options do you think would be better and what type of glue should I use to attach the tiles? I really do not want them to start to come off since it will be outside and it will be alot of work.

1. A terracotta pot
2. A plastic pot. It is very rigid. I can stand on it and it does not bend.

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clipped on: 10.06.2007 at 10:50 am    last updated on: 10.06.2007 at 10:50 am

RE: wire Christmas deer? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dena6355 on 09.21.2007 at 11:49 am in Hypertufa Forum

Sandy,
You could definitely use the wire frame, similar to a topiary frame. Here is what I would do; BUT remember that once anything is added to the frame it will increase the overall girth of the frame and increase weight; no way around it. So if there is a way to squish the frame work a little smaller maintaining the overall shape you can potentially get about the same size deer. Ok so now here is what I would do;

stuff frame with a large plastic bag (black or clear) then using something to stuff inside, stryo peanuts, plastic bags, newspaper etc., know where the opening of the big plastic bag is so you can remove the stuffing if you want later, be sure to have a small access area in a discreet spot if you want to remove it later. This inner core only stops mix from falling through.

*cover the outside of the frame with chicken wire if it is not already covered with wire.

*Tie or sew the chicken wire on with small pieces of wire (18-20gage)like a bread tie. Tuck in any rough spots.

*using Quikwall by Quikrete company you can apply a thin scratch coat first, this does not have to be thick and it does not end up pretty. Quikwall has fibers in the mix, Mix in small batches as it sets quickly, mixed with water creates a very sticky mix that can be smooshed troweled or pattied on to your wire surface. Your inner stuffing will stop the mix from falling through. This does not have to be very thick, it makes a rough surface for the other mix to stick to. Spritz to keep moist or cover in damp toweling.

*Wait at least overnight, longer if your scratch coat got a little thick; then
*When you are ready, spritz the area that you are working on, and brush on concrete bonding agent (this bonds old to new) just a thin coat is fine, it will make your next mix sort of slippery
*work in small batches to apply the finish coat.

*apply a finish mix of 1 pt cement/2-3 parts fine sand/colorant if you like, mix with water and a little concrete bonding agent to a thin toothpaste consistency and trowel with the palm of your hand over the scratch coat. This does not have to be much thicker that 1/2". Once you have the armature covered, you are familiar with the entire deer enough to sculpt areas with your fingertips or other tool to add detail or space for gems for eyes or horse hair for the tail etc. You can add to the sculptability of the mix by adding a little more bonding agent as the liquid.
*Remember the stuffing, you can pull the inner stuffing out if you like, but it likely will not add much weight overall.
Again you will need to spritz your work and cover for at least a week for it to cure and harden properly.
Will it be heavy? Yes definitely heavier than what you started with, but much lighter than a piece of concrete statuary.You can be in control of how heavy the piece will be when you trowel on the finish coat.
And in ten years you may or may not want to take deery with you.
You can ask at the special order desk of Lowes or Home Depot about quikwall, whichever store carries quikrete products. It comes in a 50# bag and goes a long way, here in WA cost is just under 15.00 per bag.
It is always nice to create something special for your yard.
Dena

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clipped on: 09.29.2007 at 11:13 pm    last updated on: 09.29.2007 at 11:13 pm

Tufa Mixes for Newies

posted by: agrowingpassion on 08.28.2007 at 02:53 pm in Hypertufa Forum

This is taken from a post of 2005 which I can't find on the site anywhere but I had kept it and would like to share it with anyone interested. I have not used any of these but at the time of the post everyone was raving about this post. Take it for what it is worth. Hope it helps.

Receipe for hypertufa - different looks:

Hypertufa Mixes

1) GRANITE LOOK -I
1 part perl/verm
1 pt cement
2 parts peat

2) POROUS TUFA-LIKE
1 part sand
1 pt cement
2 pt peat

3) LIMESTONE LOOK
1 part sand
1 pt cement
1 pt peat

4) GRANITE LOOK II
3 parts perl/verm
3 pt peat
2 pt cement

5) SANDSTONE LOOK
1/2 part sand
1 part cement
1/2 part peat

Approximate quantity for #1:10 quarts per part
All parts measured by volume

Treatment of Trough
Brush with stiff wire brush to remove shart edges and smooth look of poured concrete
Score sides with chisel or knife

Allow to dry slowly in a shaded spot 3-4 weeks or in big plastic bag with humidity under sun.

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clipped on: 09.05.2007 at 06:33 pm    last updated on: 09.29.2007 at 11:00 pm

RE: What Do You Seal A Mosiac Birdbath With? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bill_vincent on 09.12.2006 at 11:01 pm in Garden Junk Forum

First, you can use Aquamix's Sealers Choice Gold to seal the grout, but don't expect that to save the mastic. Not only will moisture affect it, but so will freezing temps, if you're in an area where freeze/ thaw issues are a concern. Also, once you get it all sorted out, you only seal the grout-- not the tile, unless it's terracotta or crackle glaze.

Aquamix can be found at most Home Depots.

haziemoon-- one thing you might do is take your mosaic apart, before it starts coming up on its own, clean the mastic off the pieces, and then reset them using Mapei's Kerabond thinset mixed with their Keralastic latex additive, full strength. It's absolutely THE best thinset you can use for outdoor projects.

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clipped on: 09.27.2007 at 10:00 pm    last updated on: 09.27.2007 at 10:00 pm

RE: wip and misc stuff (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: slowmedown on 09.07.2007 at 10:10 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

This brings me back to memories of the fledglings. This forum is so wonderful in this regard. No question is too silly here. It is very comforting to be able to ask and not be made to feel imcompetent. GREY: After you cut your sheet down to a better working size, if you'll use a wide ruler, perhaps put some silicon on it to keep it from slipping, and cut your little sheet into a grid, you can snap those tiles out lickety split. Measure/score every 1/2" across, then turn it, measure/score every 1/2" and then snap the rows, then each tile off. You'll find you save so much time and get uniform cuts most of the time. Before I bought the Morton system I used a wide quilter's ruler. If you have the cutting pad, the squares are 1/2", so you can just move your glass across each line on the grid of the cutting mat. You'll get better w/practice. Your votive is just darlin', and I'll bet it's beautiful w/a candle. LADY, I STILL love that candle shelter. Good job.

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clipped on: 09.07.2007 at 03:27 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2007 at 03:27 pm

Showing my ignorance

posted by: sunshine_funshine on 08.24.2007 at 10:29 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

What am I doing wrong? I am cutting glass sheets for the first time. Not fancy cuts just making small squares is all I want to do. I score with suppercutters and TRY to get a clean break with the running pliers. I have had ONE clean cut out of dozens I have tried. Why? I have read the tutorials and as far as I can tell I am doing things correctly. Luckily, I can still use what has been coming off, but I am getting sooo irritated with myself for not getting this to work. I am not standing up when I score. Is that a big deal? The one strip that worked was done sitting down. Any tips?

Here is a link that might be useful: Tutorial I am using

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clipped on: 09.07.2007 at 03:26 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2007 at 03:27 pm

Papercrete Bears

posted by: terrybear on 07.29.2007 at 05:19 pm in Hypertufa Forum

Hi all! I am starting this thread as a means of responding to questions that I have received about 2 bears that I made out of papercrete. The earlier discussion was in the "My second female figure" thread. I will post there that questions and comments should be moved here instead. Thanks.

For those of you who haven't been reading Johnathon's posts (I recommend that you have a look there too! - Great work!) I made two bears out of papercrete and now I am working on a 3rd project. Here are photos of both bears in progress and finished, and also some of the new project that show how I am building the armature.

Here is a link that might be useful: Photos of bears

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clipped on: 08.04.2007 at 11:48 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2007 at 11:48 pm

Epoxy Tutorial with lots of PICS :)

posted by: ladyronnie on 06.27.2007 at 09:23 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

I am making a new thread for this since the previous one got stale waiting for me to get this done! I did this on a very small project, a little 3" square coaster, mainly in the interest of the time I had to glue the tessarae. You would follow the same steps on a larger project. One thing that is very important, is that your project needs to sit LEVEL! And the bigger the project, the more important it is. So, that said, Here Goes:

First, arrange everything you need AHEAD OF TIME! I learned the first time around that not having something when you have epoxy ready to go is NOT GOOD!
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
What you need: Your project
--two-part epoxy (resin and hardener)
--measuring cup (I used a tablespoon for small amount)
--container to mix in (straight sided)
--something to mix with (needs a straight side to scrape container sides, I use a plastic picnic knife for small amount)
--a piece of stiff cardboard or a throwaway paintbrush (I have a craft paintbrush that is getting stiffer and stiffer, but I keep using it)
--rubbing alcohol (the only thing that will clean up wet epoxy)
--a rag for wiping your hands, etc (to wet with ALCOHOL, not water)
--something to time for two minutes (watch or clock with second hand, kitchen timer, etc. Not in pic, I used clock on wall)

Measure EQUAL AMOUNTS of resin and hardener into your mixing container, (I quickly wiped out my measuring spoon with alcohol-rag), and begin stirring. Time stirring for TWO MINUTES.
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Be sure to scrape sides and bottom of container frequently. Use kind of a whipping action, like hand-whipping egg whites. Mixture will get frothy and even have little bubbles float into the air.

POUR mixture onto your project. You can pour it all in the middle on a small project, pour it all around on a larger one. You can see all the bubbles in this pic:
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

To be continued...
(I just don't want to accidentally delete this whole thing before I post it! So I'll do it in a few parts.)

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clipped on: 06.27.2007 at 11:06 pm    last updated on: 06.27.2007 at 11:06 pm

how to epoxy...long post...

posted by: ladyronnie on 02.25.2007 at 10:56 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

but hopefully informative!

Several people have asked in my "bathroom vanity" thread how I epoxied the surface. It was way simpler than I thought it might be (and than this might make it sound!) This was the first thing I've ever epoxied, so I'm glad I didn't mess it up (much)!

I used a product called EnviroTex Lite, that someone on here recommended, and I found at a local hardware store. It can also be ordered online. There may be other brands, but I would recommend this one because I know it dries perfectly clear.

It is a two part product, a resin and a hardener. You mix one part hardener into one part resin. You whip it kind of like hand mixing cake batter, and what they don't tell you on the insert is that it will produce tiny bubbles that float into the air as you whip it. Not a problem. You mix it like this for two minutes, and it gets kind of frothy. You then pour it on your project, which really needs to be perfectly level. My vanity isn't, and I got a deep spot on one corner. You use a piece of stiff paper (or part of the instructions folded several times if you forget to have the "stiff paper" handy like I did!) to push the epoxy around on the project. Then, you breathe on it! Ok, that makes me chuckle just typing it, but it's true! Tiny bubbles appear all over, and carbon dioxide makes them pop and disappear. So I probably spent 45 minutes (felt like it anyway) exhaling gently on it. I just kept doing it until I didn't see any more bubbles pop when I did it. Actually they are so tiny after a while that you just kind of see the surface "change" as you exhale on it. I wound up using a piece of pvc pipe to blow through to save my back, and I did get a little light headed. (The directions say you can also use a small torch somehow, but I don't have one.) I may have gone overboard too. I just REALLY didn't want any bubbles. And I wound up with them anyway where it got too thick.

About the masking tape. When I did the sides and front panel, I placed them laying flat on blocks of wood on a table protected with plastic. So the epoxy just ran off the sides, or I ran it off the sides with my "stiff paper". When it was dry, there were little bumps all around the backside where the epoxy had dried in hard drips. These came off really easily with a belt sander. (You don't just scrape them off though. It's hard as a rock when dry.) (Oh, and I made sure the blocks weren't close enough to the edge to get epoxied TO my project!)

I was getting to the masking tape...I did the countertop the first time just like I did the sides and front, except without the blocks, I just let it run right down the sides of the frame. (I did protect the floor!) After the sides and front were attached, I wanted to epoxy it again so I wouldn't have a seam all the way around where the top met the sides and front. And I didn't want drips down the sides and front. So I created a "form" all around the edge with masking tape, placing it so about half the tape was stuck to the vanity and the other half sticking up above it. Basically just ran a strip of tape from one side at the back all the way around the edge to the other side at the back. I DID find, because it wasn't level, that I had to reinforce the side and corner that the epoxy was running to, as the tape started to bend over from the pressure. I also made tape "trusses", placing strips of tape connected to the edge of the sink out to the tape on the edge of the vanity. (If that doesn't make sense, ask me to clarify it.) I thought I would have to SAND off the masking tape where it was in contact with the epoxy, but lo and behold, it peeled right off! Maybe it wouldn't a few days later, but it did the next afternoon.

With the leftover epoxy, I painted the backsplash so it would have the same shine and sealant property.

I had a couple runs where the epoxy escaped under the masking tape (gotta press it down REALLY well), but I caught them while they were still wet (read "extremely sticky"!) and was able to wash them off with alcohol (and lots of elbow grease). Once it's dry, they're permanent short of sanding, which turns it whitish. BUT if you have to sand like I will where it got too deep, you are supposed to be able to go back with another layer and make it clear again.

Ok, I think that pretty much tells it. I do love the result I got, extremely smooth, even brighter color except where it got too deep, glassy shiny. I'd recommend trying it on a smaller project first, probably less nerve wracking, though it really wasn't bad.

Veronica

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clipped on: 06.21.2007 at 09:24 pm    last updated on: 06.21.2007 at 09:25 pm

The Recipe - Hope I can do this RIGHT!!!

posted by: slowmedown on 03.08.2007 at 03:44 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Painting my ironing board legs, but decided to check in and am thinking I better take the time to try to relate what we learned. The others can fill in where I leave gaps, or I'll be happy to answer any questions.

For those who have a sewing background, this w/be a little easier. I used to sew all my clothes, so I related the proceedure to making a pattern to cut a dress. All her structures are a double layer of the mesh, so do everything in twos. The wire mesh is the galvanized lathe - diamond-shaped stuff used to plaster walls. To make a life-sized person, Riana begins by sorta measuring her face, cuts a piece of the mesh and begins to shape the face by folding the chin area into sorta a v-shape, cutting darts where she needed to fold and overlap for stitches, etc. To shape the forehead she cut a piece to size, leaving enough to bend and lay across to shape the forehead enough wings to attach it to the face, w/stitches made from 19 guage wire. She cuts a piece about 6/8" then turns in about an inch w/the pliers, pinches the folded end to make a "hook needle" that she pushes through the layers, to catch the pieces and then she can pull it through to wind around a couple times w/the pliers then cuts the ends off w/the cutting part of the pliers as close as possible w/o cutting the "knot". Use as many stitches as necessary to hold the piece to shape. W/each additional piece of mesh to shape the ears, nose, leave "wings" for attaching it to the base of the face. Sculpturing the face/head she then goes on to the shoulders by just bending a piece into an arched piece the length from shoulder to shoulder so the head w/be able to sit in the middle by cutting, shaping, darting so it sits properly. Remember - double layers of everything. The neck w/be a short tube you w/cut around bottom/top for the wings to attach to the head, then cut and darted to fit the shoulders once the head is attached. She goes through the whole process of sculpturing the whole body, darting, patching, pinching, folding, punching to shape, etc. The recipe for the mud mixture to be gently pushed in between the two pieces of mesh layer and smoothes over the mesh (not to completely cover) is: 1 part Portland cement to three parts of mason sand. She was using local stuff so the sand was course, and b/c the metal mesh wasn't available there, she used hardware "cloth" metal mesh - ungalvanized - 1/4" holes. After pushing through and smoothing out the structure, she covers w/plastic to dry over night. There were spots of the mesh not completely covered w/the concrete, and that was ok. It is a just a very thin layer on the outside, thereby making the statue light enough to move around easily. Next day, in most cases, it is ready to be refined or smoothed out the rough edges, especially trimming the "stitches", bumps knocked off, it is ready to be mosaiced. She doesn't cover all parts in mosaics. As shown in ROSIE's photo of the statue she made of our hostess Sam, bird and dog, she uses different colored grouts and exterior house paints to finish her pieces. She uses powdered colorants, and paints when she can't find grout in colors she wishes to use. On the arms and legs, she showed us how to use a runny mixture of grout to smooth over the skeleton to cover the mesh and concrete that won't be covered by mosaics. She makes her own grout w/one part type 1 Portland cement w/one-two parts silica sand or you can buy a regular sanded grout. For mosaicing she uses cement-based polymer fortified tile adhesive for adhering. The local stuff wasn't great, and when an occasional piece fell off, she used Weldbond to put it back on. The climate there is mild, so ...... She didn't even know what a pistol-grip glass scoring tool was. Her only tools are a hammer, a tile nipper, the tile cutter w/the little wheel to score and a trowel for mixing the cement/sand mixture - VERY BASIC TOOLS. Ask away, if this isn't clear.

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clipped on: 06.21.2007 at 03:27 pm    last updated on: 06.21.2007 at 03:27 pm

Stained Glass and Mosiac Forum Galleries

posted by: madhabitz on 02.11.2007 at 07:00 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Gypsy's "faces" post reminded me that I've been meaning to post the gallery links for the newcomers, for some time now.

We have two galleries at this point-- one password protected gallery with photos of the people who participate in this forum and one with pictures from the recent frying pan exchange (no password). Here at the links:

The Faces of the GW Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum
Pan Exchange / January 2007

If you have been participating in the forum, we would LOVE to add your photo to the "Faces" gallery. Please email it to madhabitz@gmail.com. You can also email me to get the password for the gallery *if* you've posted at least once.

This brings up an interesting phenom that has happened twice so far-- one with a good outcome and one that's left me feeling sad. I am fairly new here. I recogize the names of those who post regularly, but there are a lot of names I don't know off the top of my head. I've been taking the role of "protector" pretty seriously, so if I don't recognize a name, I've been doing searches to find posts.

The happy outcome happened when I couldn't find a username after doing a search-- none of this person's posts turned up in a search. I told her I couldn't find any posts and she emailed me back with links to several posts she'd made. I was so relieved!

But then I got another request for a password and it was the same deal all over again. I didn't recognize her username and nothing came up in a search. I emailed her back, letting her know... and never heard from her again. My gut and my heart knows this person just wanted to participate in some way. She meant nobody any harm, yet I still felt the need to stick with the plan. I feel just awful about this.

Soooo, if any of you lurkers out there want to see these faces, all you have to do is step up and post. You can even use this thread to do it. You don't have to provide a photo of yourself to get the password-- you only have to be a participant, and there's no criteria to define what that is, except to have at least one post under your belt.

C'mon all y'all!

Nancy

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clipped on: 02.16.2007 at 05:25 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2007 at 05:26 pm