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Bathroom Design Ideas Teak (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: bathroom_daddy on 06.25.2008 at 05:03 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Yes I too love the look of Teak...not a big fan of solid gold however!

Yes a full floor is quite costly... I didnt want to be responsible for more downed trees but I really wanted at least a teak tray in my shower to get the spa feel in the morning so here is a Green project idea for you.

Depending on the size of your shower floor...mine is standard Neo shape...I cruzed Craigs list for large teak outdoor patio table...I found a diamond in the rough a very nice quality teak table that needed tlc....and a new life!

First I power sanded the teak to get down to the nice wood while the table was still together.
I made a pattern of my shower pan and cut the table strategically to align the board slats to look aesthetic in the pan.used the cut off under pieces for additional strength and even used the left over stainless screws that are the perfect depthhit the finished product with a quality polyurethane. The whole project cost me $30! and looks awesome. I paid $20 for the table and $10 for the polyurethane.
It goes nicely with the slate in the shower pan and floorand my Zen vessel sink.

You can do this project in a afternoon...let the poly dry for 24 hrs and let the party begin.

Karl Eberhardt
Aka The Bathroom Daddy

Here is a link that might be useful: Bathroom Daddy


clipped on: 07.25.2008 at 02:47 am    last updated on: 07.25.2008 at 02:47 am

RE: Carrara Marble look alike! (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: flyleft on 07.20.2008 at 11:52 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hey Bill, what a dear house :) We were in a house like that for an estate sale today and it just filled me with respect/awe or the life that house must have seen...probably helped that we're reading Tom Sawyer right now -- the imagination was already in the right era :)

So just a few rectified tiles I've looked at for DD's bathroom are Lea Stonehenge, @$7.47/sf for 18x18, Century Discovery for 6.08/sf for 18x18, FloorGres Stonetech for 8.96/sf 16x32 (! that was the one I was asking about a bit ago for the powder room too), and then on up for two Casa Dolce Casas. I know there are lots more, though--I was just staying within a very small grey spectrum. And those are retail prices at United Tile.


clipped on: 07.22.2008 at 02:33 am    last updated on: 07.22.2008 at 02:33 am

My finished 'glamour vintage' bathroom

posted by: mrslimestone on 02.09.2008 at 06:22 pm in Bathrooms Forum

My master bathroom is finally finished. I nearing the end of a long gut renovation and I wanted to share the sole completed room in the entire house! Size is approx 10x5ft in a 100 year old home.

Sorry about the lighting in these photos. I need to add bulbs in the sconces.

Floor tiles: Marble basketweave with ming dot accents
Wall tiles: The no name subway tile that was in stock at tile shop finished with victorian cap
Vanity, Medcine Cabinets, Lights, Shelves, Faucet, Towel Bar: Restoration Hardware
Toilet: Toto Promenade
Wall Color: Quiet Moments by Benjamin Moore
Shower: Sign of the Crab exposed with handheld

Im planning on adding some fluffy towels, a potted orchid, some photographs on the far wall and teak bench to finish it off. Any other suggestions appreciated.

Just wanted to thank everyone on this board for being such a great resource. I come here with questions and always leave with an answer from a simple search or posted question.

More photos:


clipped on: 07.22.2008 at 12:34 am    last updated on: 07.22.2008 at 12:34 am

B & W checkerboard/subway tile kids' bath

posted by: hoffman on 01.13.2008 at 08:43 pm in Bathrooms Forum








Kohler Memoirs toilet & sink
Kohler pinstripe faucets & accessories
Kohler villager tub (the only one that would fit)
Rejuvenation medicine cabinet, pushbutton switches & light fixtures
Daltile subway tile & black liners
marble mosaic checkerboard floor tile
Pottery Barn Kids towels & shower curtain
BM "white satin" paint
Nero Marquina (black) marble windowsill


clipped on: 07.08.2008 at 04:56 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2008 at 04:56 pm

RE: clean indoor concrete floors (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: barnmom on 08.07.2006 at 01:15 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Concrete floors are not an esthetic shared by all but with the right setting and large area rugs, it can be a great look. The house above is in Arizona where the cool concrete floors make a lot of sense. The owners embrace a very modern look and the concrete works for them.

As for deep crack grime, I would rent a steamer and tackle the crud that way. Here are some concrete cleaning solutions that might work for you. Unsealed concrete is pourous and will absord oil etc.

A Heavy-Duty Floor Cleaner
Here's a recipe for a solution that will remove extra-tough dirt and grime from asphalt, glazed or unglazed ceramic tile, concrete, flagstone, and slate floors:

* Mix 1⁄4 cup low-sudsing, all-purpose cleaner; 1 cup ammonia; and 1⁄2 gallon cool or cold water. Caution: Wear rubber gloves, and work in a well-ventilated area when using this powerful solution.
* Apply the solution to the floor with a sponge mop, using pressure for heavily soiled areas; rinse with cool, clear water for spotless results.
* Dry with a soft cloth.

Concrete is an extremely strong, durable material made from cement and aggregate. Concrete is porous, whether used as a floor in garage, porch or patio, driveway or walks.

Often porch or patio floors will have an extra smooth surface, but it will still absorb stains easily. It may be sealed or painted. Concrete floors are sealed to prevent staining, since without sealing it absorbs stains readily. The floor must cure and dry after it is laid before it can be sealed, with the time required varying with weather, temperature, building conditions, etc. Floors must be clean, and any remaining alkali in the concrete must be neutralized before sealing. Contact a good paint store or cement dealer for complete instructions and materials to use.

Painting concrete varies depending on its use. Latex floor paints react with rubber tires in garages, as well as with bicycle tires, lawnmower tires, etc. The result is peeling. Alkyd floor enamels are more moisture resistant, and normally old up better under these conditions. But they are more slippery when wet. If there is moisture rising from beneath the surface of the floor it may also cause enamel floor paint to peel.

To clean, wet with clear water. Apply a hot solution of 2 to 2 1/2 ounces washing soda or 1/2 ounce TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) per gallon of water. TSP can be found in paint, hardware and home center stores.

Grease Stains: In a garage, it is advisable to place a shallow metal pan under the car to catch dripping oil. Spreading the area under the car with sand or sawdust will help absorb dripping oil. Periodically saturated sand or sawdust should be scraped away and fresh, clean material put in place. This will prevent tracking oil to other areas of cement or into the house. If oil or grease is spilled on porch or patio cement, apply an absorbent powder such as fuller's earth, cornmeal, or sawdust to absorb as much oil as possible immediately. Leave it on stain for a few hours and sweep up.

Here are some various methods to remove grease stains:

1. Using a stiff long handled brush, scrub stain with concentrated detergent suds. Rinse well with hose. Dry and repeat if necessary.
2. Sprinkle "dishwasher" detergent (dry) on wet concrete. Let it stand a few minutes; pour boiling water on area. Scrub and rinse. Use rubber gloves on hands.
3. Commercial products are available in paint/hardware home centers. Some can also be used on blacktop surfaces.
4. On wet oily surface of concrete, sprinkle with tri-sodium phosphate. Allow to stand 15 to 30 minutes, then scrub with stiff brush and hot water. Rinse with clean water.
5. Dissolve a cup tri-sodium phosphate in 1 gallon of hot water. Pour over stained cement surface generously and allow to soak 15 to 20 minutes. Scrub vigorously with stiff brush or broom. Rinse off with hose. Repeat if necessary.
6. Scrub the concrete with a grease solvent to remove as much as possible of the grease stain. Have good ventilation and avoid spark or flame as solvents are flammable. Naptha, often recommended, can ignite, just from a spark from friction or rubbing.
7. Mix 1 part sodium citrate to 6 parts water and 6 parts glycerin and add enough whiting or fuller's earth to make a thick paste. Spread paste on oil or grease stain. Let stand 1 week. Add new paste when it dries. Flush with water after brushing dry paste away. Repeat if necessary.

Rust Stains : Make a paste of 1 part sodium citrate crystals to 6 parts water and enough whiting or fuller's earth to make a paste. Spread paste on rust stains and allow to dry. Scrape off. Rust should be removed. Repeat if necessary.


clipped on: 06.16.2008 at 03:27 pm    last updated on: 06.16.2008 at 03:27 pm

RE: Help with Tile Design - Subway & Glass Tile (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: foxycandy on 05.17.2007 at 04:48 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Thanks for the compliments! It was pretty much a diy project but I think it turned out as planned.

biondanonima - Here are the items we used in the bathroom. I love Ikea (obviously) nice and cheap!

Vanity: Ikea Stenskar
Sink: Ikea Hollviken
Sink, Tub and Shower fixtures: Danze Parma
Toilet: Toto Ultramax


clipped on: 06.07.2008 at 03:39 am    last updated on: 06.07.2008 at 03:39 am

RE: Help with Tile Design - Subway & Glass Tile (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: soonermagic on 05.17.2007 at 11:50 am in Bathrooms Forum

Pirula, Thanks for the suggestions, confirmation of my design, etc.

Below is a link to Jill77's bathroom to help visualize the vanity mirror and glass tile design.

Here is a link that might be useful: Jill77's Bathroom


clipped on: 06.07.2008 at 03:38 am    last updated on: 06.07.2008 at 03:38 am

wired camera for playroom

posted by: dmcafee267 on 02.07.2006 at 05:21 pm in Electronics Forum

I have a large playroom with pre-wire for two separate cameras with cat5e. These two wires run to our whole house wire box in the utility room. I have an unused tv coax cable that runs from this utility box to the cabinet in the kitchen for an under-cabinet tv. I would like to buy and install two color cameras and have the video go to the under-cab tv, but wouldn't mind it being able to be seen on all the tv's. Can anyone explain what I would need to do this? I guess I'm hung up on how the video gets converted from cat5e to tv coax and how to tie this into at least the lone unused kitchen tv coax if not the cable tv throughout the entire house. Suggestions on good equipment for the money would be appreciated as well. Thanks for any input.


clipped on: 06.06.2008 at 04:06 am    last updated on: 06.06.2008 at 04:06 am

Free lighting software

posted by: ralleia on 12.05.2006 at 10:55 pm in Lighting Forum

I'm the geek in the lighting class. Our last assignment required us to download some free lighting software and use it to design a lighting layout using the lumen method. I liked the software much more than manual calculations. Though it's more geared for commercial layouts than residential, it may be useful to play with. You'll need to know some basic info about the lamps you intend to install and the required illuminance levels (40 fc is a decent assumption).

It's available at

The basic edition is free.


clipped on: 04.30.2008 at 09:23 pm    last updated on: 04.30.2008 at 09:23 pm

RE: Stained/Scored Concrete Anyone? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ladyish2 on 09.15.2007 at 03:40 pm in Flooring Forum

We just did our floors and love them. At first we hired someone to acid stain them.....he did part of the floor and really messed up what he did so I fired him.

We bought the stuff and did it our selves. First we put down a Relay product, it goes on credit card thickness. After it was dry we put on MT-200, cedit card thickness, this makes the concrete very smooth. Then the stain is sprayed on. Rinse, Rinse, Rinse, dry, then 2 coats of a flat sealer and 1 coat of a matte polish.

We saved a lot of money doing it our selves. The hardest part was getting everything off the floor for the process. The other part was we wished the color was more uniformed and less busy... but thats the beautiy of the stain.


clipped on: 04.26.2008 at 12:10 pm    last updated on: 04.26.2008 at 12:10 pm

Stained Concrete Floors

posted by: terrafina on 02.12.2007 at 01:53 pm in Flooring Forum

Hi all,
I have recently begun looking at this great website, and have noticed that quite few questions pertain to stained concrete, or concrete floors. Stained concrete floors (and exterior stained concrete as well) are a mystery to most people. There is a lot if information out there though, and not all of it is accurate. As a professional stainer, I believe that it is important that people have plenty of information so that they can make the right decisions about their concrete. Informed consumers are happy consumers. If you have a question that you think can be answered without a visit to your home, I'd be glad to help. I do go out and stain quite a bit though, so please be patient if it takes a bit for me to get back to this forum.


clipped on: 04.26.2008 at 11:54 am    last updated on: 04.26.2008 at 11:54 am

RE: LOOKING for: Salmon Patties/Cakes (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: danain on 04.12.2006 at 01:06 pm in Recipe Exchange Forum

Jessie, mine is Paul's favorite way to eat salmon. I do them only with fresh salmon, that is the key.

Fresh Salmon Cakes

2 cloves garlic; minced
2 tablespoons minced onion
2 dashes Tabasco (or 1 teaspoon Old Bay)
1 egg yolk (or egg white)
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 tablespoons real mayonnaise
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt (less if table salt)
fresh ground pepper to taste
2/3 cup coarse white bread crumbs
1 pound fresh salmon
1/2 cup Panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
2 or 3 tablespoons olive oil

In a small bowl, combine garlic, onion, Tabasco, egg, parsley, mayonnaise, salt and pepper; set aside. Remove skin and bones from salmon and cut into small cubes (about 1/2-inch); place in a medium bowl and gently stir in bread crumbs. Gently fold egg mixture into salmon and bread and refrigerate at least 2 hours before shaping into 4 patties.

Carefully coat the outside of each patty with Panko crumbs. Heat oil in a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat until very hot and add salmon cakes. Fry the cakes until brown, about 4 minutes on each side turning only once. Serve with lemon wedges or your favorite tarter sauce.

*May substitute cracker crumbs or bread crumbs for the Panko.



clipped on: 04.26.2008 at 11:42 am    last updated on: 04.26.2008 at 11:42 am

stained cement

posted by: chiliepepper on 03.08.2008 at 11:45 am in Home Decorating Forum

Has anyone either stained cement inside or outside their homes or had someone come in to do it? We live in a bi-level and recently had the family room flooded I am sick of our carpet and have been looking at some pictures and sites of stained cement and they look absolutely gorgeous and I really would love to try it. I am not sure of the cost or time element. I would like to experiment on the patio or sidewalk in front of our home first but not if it is going to be like crazy expensive or not something that a novice would do. Any ideas thoughts or otherwise would be helpful. Thanks.


clipped on: 04.26.2008 at 11:39 am    last updated on: 04.26.2008 at 11:39 am

RE: how to clean porch for paint (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: pressurepros on 07.13.2006 at 07:45 am in Porches & Decks Forum

Ace is the place with the friendly hardware man. Unfortunately, also the place of bad advice and cheap paint. Make a mixture of 1 part household bleach, 1 part trisoidum phosphate (in proper dilution) and three parts water. Scrub with brush, or in lieu of brush use a pressure washer. Absolutely prime with an oil base, then do one or two topcoats.

If you don't want to get into chemical mixing, go here:

Here is a link that might be useful: Clean and prep


clipped on: 04.22.2008 at 09:27 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2008 at 09:27 pm

RE: Deck paint?? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: pressurepros on 08.07.2006 at 02:09 pm in Porches & Decks Forum

Good ole Lowe's.

First off, do not use any product from Lowes' HD o any big box store. Their exterior products are inferior.

Scrape down your deck. Sand to feather where neccessary. Powerwash with a solution of bleach and TSP. Let dry two or three days and apply an oil based primer made by Cabot's called Problem Solver. Let that dry for 24 hours and then apply two topcoats of Cabot's Solid Decking Stain (you can use latex as it will repel mold better and give you better expansion)

This is a big job no matter how you slice it and is why I tell people to NEVER paint their decks. They always peel. if you follow the technique I outlined above you will get 4-6 years from your sealer. If you skip steps, you may get 6 months.


clipped on: 04.22.2008 at 09:26 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2008 at 09:26 pm

RE: Basement drop ceiling height (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: jasper_60103 on 09.14.2006 at 02:06 pm in Basements Forum

I re-read your post and did some internet searching.
Is this the finish you're trying to achieve?...



clipped on: 10.11.2006 at 03:25 pm    last updated on: 10.11.2006 at 03:29 pm

RE: What flooring did you do in your finished basement? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: kiwiguy on 09.27.2006 at 10:56 pm in Basements Forum

We are currently having installed 1300 sqft of BR-111 engineered hardwood flooring (American Cherry). It's a floating floor with underlayment going ontop of already installed DriCore panels. Should be finished tomorrow. Looks good so far and hopefully will be nice and warm and dry.

The bathroom is ceramic tile with NobleSeal anti-fracture membrane. FYI a small bathroom (50 sqft) gets really expensive (per square foot) when you need 5 boxes instead of 4, the membrane and shipping is all included. Probably came to $500 in total with the tile being only $3.50/sqft.


clipped on: 10.11.2006 at 02:43 pm    last updated on: 10.11.2006 at 02:44 pm

RE: What flooring did you do in your finished basement? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: lindpro on 09.26.2006 at 09:49 am in Basements Forum

We put down WilsonArt Estate Plus laminate in the pattern seen in the link below last summer in our gameroom section of the basement. We love it. It's easy to clean and vacuum and non-slippery. Also, it's not nearly as cold as tile.

Here is a link that might be useful: WilsonArt Estate Plus


clipped on: 10.11.2006 at 02:42 pm    last updated on: 10.11.2006 at 02:42 pm

RE: What flooring did you do in your finished basement? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: lisalm on 09.25.2006 at 08:34 pm in Basements Forum

The carpet tiles we are going to order are Miliken's Tesserae. There are a few versions of the Tesserae--the most expensive one is the Spectrum which has nice, thick padding (for carpet tiles) and dense, medium-pile frieze fibers. The Spectrum comes in 24 colors, most of which are varigated, some more subtle (looks almost like a solid), and some more obviously multi-colored. Each tile is 24 X 24 inches. The cheapest I've found them is $2.78 per square foot plus shipping from a site called This is substantially better than the price I was quoted at a local carpet store and even through other online retaliers. Most charge closer to $4.00 per square foot.

This is supposedly an easy DIY product. HOPEFULLY, it really is easy--dh and I are not particularly handy. The tiles can be laid directly on the concrete. I have been trying to figure out if we can place a vapor barrier under them, but I am concerned that I will get slippage. The bottom of each tile is not sticky but is just ever so tacky. It seems like it would grip the floor. The next trick is getting our floor clean enough--cleaning up all of that drywall dust from construction.

We are going to take a sample square to a carpet store and get as close of a match as possible for stairs. If we find a store that sells Miliken, we should be able to get really close.

Below is a link to check out:

I would also check out the Miliken site for more detail and design ideas:

Hope that helps,

Here is a link that might be useful: Tesserae at


clipped on: 10.11.2006 at 02:23 pm    last updated on: 10.11.2006 at 02:23 pm

RE: Sugestions on exposed beams (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: susielw on 07.09.2006 at 10:36 am in Basements Forum

Hi, we recently decided to take an old, dirty dropped ceiling out of our basement as we wanted more height. What we ended up doing was having someone else come in and apply a "dry fall" paint to the entire ceiling. This is the coating that you see in some modern restaurants and bars, usually where they have a pretty tall ceiling and exposed ductwork . It's a spray on coating that will cover EVERYTHING: beams, joists, metal ducts, pipes, etc. This way we avoided having to seperately prime and paint everything according to the material and it gives a smooth, matte finish. It's latex based, so while it's kind of stinky for a few days the fumes aren't flammable. The cleanup wasn't fun, but we think it was well worth it. We're doing at least 90% of the work ourselves on the space, but considering how hard it is to paint overhead, and the sheer volume of paint you would have to buy to do the job, we really think it was a good idea. We didn't even have to clean aside from knocking down the bigger spider webs - it literally sticks to anything except grease or oil. Bonus: it looks really cool! The paint contractor was a bit hesitant about doing it in a house, but after he saw the results he's planning to come back and take photos of the finished room to use for marketing it to homeowners. I don't know what your plans are for the space, and how finished you want it to be, but this really worked out well for us.


clipped on: 07.18.2006 at 10:30 pm    last updated on: 10.11.2006 at 02:20 pm