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RE: What should go within easy reach of the cooktop? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: buehl on 12.08.2009 at 04:47 am in Kitchens Forum

This might also help...

  • Cabinet 1: 24" base, 3 drawers
  • Cabinet 2: 30" base, 2 drawers + Warming Drawer
  • Cabinet 3: 6" filler pullout w/3 shelves
  • Cabinet 4: 36" cooktop base, 3 drawers
  • Cabinet 5: 6" filler pullout w/3 shelves
  • Cabinet 6: 31" base, 1 drawer + Microwave Drawer
  • Cabinet 7: 36" corner sink base w/15-3/4" square sink
  • Cabinet 8: 24" base, 4 drawers
  • Cabinet 9: 27" base, 1 drawer + 2 roll out shelves (2 doors)
  • Cabinet 10: 18"W x 15"D x 36"H upper, 4 shelves
  • Cabinet 11: 21"W x 12"D x 30"H upper, 3 shelves
  • Cabinet 12: 18"W x 15"D x 36"H upper, 4 shelves
  • Cabinet 13: 18"W x 15"D x 36"H upper, 4 shelves
  • Cabinet 14: 21"W x 12"D x 30"H upper, 3 shelves
  • Cabinet 15: 18"W x 15"D x 36"H upper, 4 shelves
  • Cabinet 16: 36"W x 24"D over-the-refrigerator cabinet
  • Cabinet 17: 33" base, 3 drawers
  • Cabinet 18: 18" Trash Pullout + 1 drawer (2 bins)
  • Cabinet 19: 36" sink base w/35-1/2" sink
  • Cabinet 20: 24" DW
  • Cabinet 21: 27" base, 3 drawers
  • Cabinet 22: 31.5" double-oven cabinet, 1 drawer + cabinet above w/dividers for tray storage & 1 shelf
  • Cabinet 23: 23"W x 12"D x 36"H upper cabinet, 4 shelves
  • Cabinet 24: 23"W x 12"D x 36"H upper cabinet, 4 shelves
  • NOTES:

    clipped on: 04.19.2014 at 11:54 am    last updated on: 04.19.2014 at 11:54 am

    RE: Reveal! High end cook's kitchen. Cherry, Miele, maple (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: will2kz on 07.16.2013 at 12:47 am in Kitchens Forum

    Instead of becoming too verbose here, check out my other threads below. But of course ask any questions you want.
    Stadium Thread
    Blind corner
    Butcher block prep island
    Stages sink
    Walk in pantry
    If anyone knows how to post direct links to GW webpages let me know, they are getting redirected away for now. Sorry.

    This post was edited by will2kz on Tue, Jul 16, 13 at 0:56


    clipped on: 03.03.2014 at 09:27 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2014 at 09:28 pm

    RE: Plan review -- new baby + no sleep = need help (Follow-Up #14)

    posted by: mommyto4boys on 02.21.2014 at 02:32 pm in Building a Home Forum

    Congrats on the baby and home. YES, it does get easier & harder ( I now have teenagers...6 boys now...18 months-15 years). I'll hold your baby & you can clean my house ;)

    Anyways on to your plans. You are getting a lot of great feedback. I wanted to mimic some of the others on your long, narrow family and kitchen areas. Please make sure you graph it out or use a program to layout furniture. Our last home great room area was so large and open that we really grew to dislike it and built different this time around. Our "carpet" area fort the family room furniture was 24+ feet long and it along with the open eating and kitchen area was rather large & cold for us. I would think that with your set up you would almost be looking at needing two separate sitting areas in your family room area. And that is fine, if that is your plan. Or else a toy area, piano, library or something. Just lay it out and make sure it will work for you.

    Same thing with your kitchen...I'm more concerned about the width being too small with your island than the length being too long. You have room for the island, but don't go too wide or make your aisles too will live to regret it. I would think the area between your island and perimeter counter (walkway to laundry) you are going to want a minimum of 4 feet. Remember the counters overhang from your 2 foot cabinets.

    We are owner builder and have been finishing the house while living in it. So, my kitchen is so not finished. However the perimeter counters & appliances have been in place and used for a year now. We have a table where the eventual island will be. My kitchen is around 17 feet long and 18 feet wide. This includes an island area and not a dining table. So, it is a large kitchen. The kitchen forum here was a tremendous life savor to get it tweaked right. Our home plan started with my dream kitchen and the house was added to Anyways I wanted about 8 feet of windows and a large dish hutch. It functions amazingly well. Granted it is a lot of counter and cabinets. I wanted to show you an idea that gets rid of some of the counter on a long perimeter run like ours. The best part is 5 of the 6 boys can reach everything to put all the dishes away on their own (the 18 month old is still off the hook). I'm embarrassed to show you this unfinished; however, wanted to give you an idea. Please excuse the unfinished cabinets, temporary counters, temp sink, trophies on display rather than "pretties, " etc.


    clipped on: 02.22.2014 at 12:53 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2014 at 12:53 pm

    RE: Porcelain tiles that look like wood (Follow-Up #22)

    posted by: terri0826 on 09.30.2013 at 04:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

    ok here goes a try at posting a couple of pictures :)

     photo image_zpsd34c379d.jpg

     photo image_zps3cbd12f3.jpg

    These were taken when they were only half done with the room. While I do love it, it does seem to be more labor intensive for the tile guys.


    clipped on: 02.21.2014 at 01:10 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2014 at 01:10 pm

    RE: Breezy please post your drawer depths. (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: breezygirl on 02.17.2013 at 02:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Hi Quiltgirl. Sorry it's taken me so long to be able to grab enough time to answer you properly.

    First, my cabs are full overlay, not inset. I prefer the inset look, but needed to stretch our budget to cover a whole house reno and inset was too much to spend an already expensive room.

    Before deciding on a cab/drawer configurations, I had made an inventory of every single item I had to store in the kitchen. Every whisk. Every corn poker. Every serving tray. Etc. Then, I grouped those items on paper by the zone in which they would need to be stored. When my new kitchen layout was settled (which took over a year and hundreds of drawings), I labeled each zone on my plan and looked at what needed to be stored in the space I had. That drove the type of storage each zone needed.

    I know people rave about deep drawers, but I found that many of my items were small and would get swallowed up in deep drawers. I wanted quick, easy access to my needed item when I opened a drawer, not a scavenger hunt which would necessitate lifting or moving other items in the process. So for me, 4-drawer stacks were better in most places.

    My 4-drawer stacks hold a ton of stuff. Many drawers aren't as full as they could be. Top drawer to bottom interior height:


    Drawer front height:

    *****Most of these pcs are old and have been at least a little differently organized now.****

    Right of rangetop in 38" 4-drawer stack:
    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos
    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos
    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    Left of rangetop in a 38" 4-drawer stack:
    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    15" wide 4-drawer stack in my prep zone to the right of the prep sink:

    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos
    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    I enjoy my 3-drawer stacks in other areas of the kitchen also, but they aren't a good place to store spatulas, baking tools, brushes, serving spoons, cork screws, spices, scale, graters, and other small kitchen tools. They are, however, wonderful in my prep zone for my large and small prep bowels.

    Interior drawer heights from top to bottom:


    Drawer front heights:


    Prep zone drawers. (DW hadn't been unloaded into these drawers yet so they are a bit empty in these shots.) 30" wide 3-drawer stack:

    Top (need DH to install my Lee Valley drawer dividers.)
    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos
    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos
    Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

    I also have two deep drawers under my rangetop for storing all my pots and pans. Those drawers are 8" and 9.25 in the interior with drawer front heights of 11" and 12.75". I find these drawers invaluable for all my big and heavy cookware.

    Sorry that ended up to be a dissertation on my drawers. :) Hope that answered your questions!

    This post was edited by breezygirl on Sun, Feb 17, 13 at 14:30


    clipped on: 02.22.2013 at 02:21 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2013 at 02:21 pm

    Finished kitchen - check out the pantry

    posted by: WhiteRiverSooner on 08.14.2012 at 04:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I finally have some pictures of my finished kitchen. Be sure to check out the pantry.

    I learned a lot from this site, and incorporated so many good ideas presented here. Not just in the kitchen, but in the bathrooms as well.

    Lots of the things I love in the kitchen are things I heard about here such as pot and pan draws with smaller pull out lid drawers, the pot filler, and how to locate it on the wall.

    I would have never put in a central vac again, but I did after reading about them here. I love that thing. I have a zip broom in one of the pull outs by the oven, as well as a vacpan right under my prep area.
    Most of all, you all make a person think about what they really need, want and will use. I have a much better kitchen, and house in general, because I thought more about flow, convenience, and our own specific needs and lifestyle.
    Thanks to all the help here, my dream kitchen really is a dream to work it. It is all I wanted it to be.

    I agonized with you all over this project, and as many of you have remembered, I had a lot of difficulties with this remodel and addition. Now that it is very nearly finished, and we have moved back into the house, it was definitely all worth it.

    I ended up adding a nice wine rack and wine cooler just to store my remodel anesthetic.

    The granite is Copenhagen
    The faucets are Grohe
    The sinks are Ticor
    The cabinets are custom with glaze
    Travertine backsplash with black marble accents
    Travertine pantry floor
    Wolf open burner rangetop
    GE single double oven
    GE Advantium speedcook micro/oven
    Samsung refrigerators
    Kitchen aid DW - wish I had thought to get panel ready, but I missed that.
    Light fixtures in the kitchen are Livex La Bella collection
    Lights in pantry are original old house fixtures I found in the barn on the property and restored them.

    Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App

    Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App

    Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App








    Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App

    Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App










    Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App
    Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App
    Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App


    clipped on: 08.15.2012 at 12:09 am    last updated on: 08.15.2012 at 12:09 am

    RE: Where do you put paper towels, wet dish towels, cutting board (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: buehl on 03.23.2010 at 02:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Cutting boards...In a tray divider under the prep sink

    Paper towels...On the counter in an OXO holder that allows me to easily get one panel one-handed. Paper towels are used from various places in the kitchen so I wanted to be able to take them with me instead of having to run back to where they're stored each time I need one. Personal preference. My mom has one mounted under the cabinet next to the sink and you either need to take the roll out of the holder or run back to it when using it other than at the sink. This would be the same if it were mounted under counter or inside a cabinet.

    If you're going to give it a permanent/fixed home, at least locate it in the middle of the Prep Zone so it's easily reached w/o having to run around an island or up/down the counter to get a paper towel.

    Wet dish towels...hanging on the handle of either the freezer drawer in the refrigerator or the warming drawer. The most convenient place is the refrigerator since it's easily accessed from both the Prep Sink & Main/Cleanup Sink. I successfully banished it from the oven handles b/c the oven is front & center from the front door. We don't use the DW handle b/c when the DW is opened the towel hits the floor.

    Some related threads...

    Thread: Ew...wet rags on kitchen sink

    Thread: Dish cloth or sponge? And where do you store it between uses?

    Thread: where do you keep kitchen cloths?

    Thread: Where to put the roll of paper towels? etc.

    Thread: paper towel holder

    Thread: OT. Kitchen-towel-hanging-on-the-oven-door-survey...

    Thread: Where do you hang your cloth hand towels?

    Thread: What to do with the Dish Towel?!?!

    Thread: narrow open cabinet to hang damp dish towels

    Thread: Where do you keep your paper towels?

    Thread: Best Paper Towel Holder for kitchen?

    Thread: Where to store that wet dishrag?

    Thread: Those little dishtowel racks?

    Thread: Towel bar on front of sink - talk me into it (or out of it)...

    Thread: cloth for washing dishes

    Thread: Where and how do you hang your cloth dishtowels?


    clipped on: 07.22.2012 at 06:35 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2012 at 06:35 pm

    Laundry room pics

    posted by: abctate on 05.22.2012 at 05:22 pm in Laundry Room Forum

    We recently redid our laundry room. It was an add on to the house along with a garage. The cubbies have been great. Each one has its own plug in so the kids can charge ipods, phones, etc. The sorting baskets and hanging rod have been even better than I imagined.







    clipped on: 07.20.2012 at 12:20 pm    last updated on: 07.20.2012 at 12:20 pm

    RE: hardwood floors-with a sweet dog (Follow-Up #10)

    posted by: westiegirl on 02.06.2012 at 10:28 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

    DH and I applied the Waterlox and installed the floors ourselves. After the floors were laid, we sanded them with a rented commercial sander to 120 grit (I believe). You can either stain the floors first, then apply the Waterlox or mix the stain in with the first coat of Waterlox, which is what we did. Either way, I highly recommend doing a few sample boards first because the Waterlox has an amber tint to it and changes what the stain will look like.

    We mixed 5 parts Waterlox with 1 part Minwax walnut stain and you basically mop it on the floor with a lambs wool applicator (it looked a lot like my microfiber dust mop). Because we didn't have baseboard up yet, we did everything with the mop, occasionally slopping onto the drywall, which will then be covered by the baseboard. You just need to try and keep a wet edge and minimize your lap marks.

    You do not need to sand between coats. After the first coat of original Waterlox with stain, we put a second coat of original Waterlox only. Our third coat was Waterlox in the satin finish. You do need to let the coats dry completely before reapplying which was just over 24 hours for us.

    The first coat took us the longest, because we were trying to keep the stain looking even as we spread it out. It took just under 3 hours to apply 2000 square feet. The 2nd and 3rd coats took right at 2 hours each.

    Here is a picture of my kitchen showing the finished product. The area in front of the seed cabinet is our main traffic way through the house.


    clipped on: 06.26.2012 at 02:08 pm    last updated on: 06.26.2012 at 02:08 pm

    RE: The truth about grout, please be honest! (Follow-Up #41)

    posted by: bill_vincent on 06.15.2012 at 06:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

    That means tile supplier, contractors, etc. will no longer warrant your happiness if you try to insist on a skinnier grout line with large tiles and, say, a running bond layout.

    Wrong. First, it's 3/16" grout joint. Secondly that refers to the standard 50% brick joint. Manufacturers will still stand behind a 1/3 or 1/4 brick joint And example would be the 12x20 tile in the following picture, set at a 1/3 brick joint:


    And Jerzeegirl, in that thread, the tile guy, Bill Vincent, was raving about epoxy grout. It was others who were less enamored.)

    yes and no. I DID say that epoxy grout is everything it's said to be. I also said that for the extra money it's USUALLY just not worth it, when you stop to consider it's about 4-5 times the cost just to purchase it, and then even more expensive if an installer is using it for you. I've also said many times that for the most part, your best bet is using common sense when choosing grout colors, that even epoxy, over time (albeit LONGER time) will still discolor, from age (mopping just pushes dirt into the pores of the grout, discoloring over time), as well as showing traffic patterns. Your best bet is in heavily traveled floors, use a medium to dark colored grout, and it won't show the wear and tear.

    Another trick is every so often, maybe once or twice a year, mix up a bucket of Oxyclean, and hit the floor with a scrub brush. Instead of mopping it up, use a shop vac to suck up the solution, and then do the same thing all over again with clear water, again sucking it up with the wet vac. It'll get the grout almost like new clean.

    Angie-- Unless you have animals, or are tiling a food prep area, to me, epoxy is wasted money and overkill. That's not to say if you want to spend the money that you shouldn't.


    Epoxy grout and cleaning grout
    clipped on: 06.17.2012 at 06:50 pm    last updated on: 06.17.2012 at 06:51 pm