Clippings by lissa711

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RE: only two decisions left - how to decide? b/s and pendants (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: mustbnuts on 09.10.2008 at 08:35 am in Kitchens Forum

I too would wait until your cabs and stone are in and then choose based on the light, etc. in your kitchen. I know you want everything done, but I would probably wait. If they are worried about "dinging" up your appliances, you can always keep that blue protector thing on them so the finish doesn't get marred.

Now, that said, Lissa, your kitchen is gorgeous! I think I will move right in! Looks like a great place to cook.

Kat--I think a soft green might be nice. Would depend on the color of the green. Here are some samples of things that might look good, depending on your taste and DH's taste. Not sure what style you are going for in your kitchen, more classic or more modern. So here are some green and other color/style alternatives.
mission tile west rhombus
mission tile west rhombus
mission tile west 4" clipped rhombus
mission tile clipped rhombus
mission tile west trillium
mission tile west trillium
mission tile west pears border
mission tile pears border
Oceanside Equator Matte
oceanside equator matte
Ann Sachs Jaune Princess
Ann Sachs Juane Princess

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clipped on: 09.10.2008 at 09:08 am    last updated on: 09.10.2008 at 09:09 am

Danby Calacatta Marble

posted by: blondelle on 07.20.2008 at 09:08 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm surprised there isn't more talk on the board about this marble. There was so much on Misty Cararra, and the Okite Cararra, and other white marble substitutes. This is supposed to be stronger than the usual white marbles, denser, more etch resistant, and less porous so it won't stain as easily.

The veining patterns aren't quite as pretty as the other real marbles, but it still is very pretty and nicer than the engineered stones. It comes with brownish, greenish, and blue gray veining and slabs with little veining.

Would love to get more feedback on this. I know one gal used it, but anyone else use it? It's a great option for kitchen counters I think.

Photobucket

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clipped on: 07.21.2008 at 02:37 pm    last updated on: 07.21.2008 at 02:37 pm

RE: Marble poultice (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mnhockeymom on 05.01.2008 at 07:14 am in Kitchens Forum

I cut and pasted some info into a Word doc that I saw on this forum - I can't give specific credit to anyone but here it is:

"Here's a poultice formula for coffee:
Make a solution of 20-30% peroxide (available at beauty supple places...wear gloves Mine is called Salon Care 30Extra Lift Volume Creme. Bought it at Sally's Beauty Supply Store.) and a few drops of ammonia. Then mix in some sort of WHITE "material;" e.g., paper towel, napkin, tissue. Make only enough to cover the stain. It should be paste-like (consistency of peanut butter).
Wet the stained area with distilled water. Pre-wetting fills the pores of the stone with water isolating the stain and accelerating the removal by the chemical.
Apply the poultice to the stain being careful not to spill any on the non stained areas. Apply approximately 1/4-inch thick over-lapping the stain area by about one inch.
Cover the poultice with plastic (food wrap works great). Tape the plastic down to seal the edges. It also helps to poke several small holes in the plastic so that the powder will dry out. Failure to do this may result in the poultice staying wet.
Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly. This is a very important step. The drying of the poultice is what pulls the stain from the stone into the poultice material. If the poultice is not allowed to dry, the stain may not be removed.
Drying usually takes from 24 to 48 hours.
Remove the poultice from the stain. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. If the stain is not removed, apply the poultice again. It may take up to five applications for difficult stains.

Here's some additional tips!
For the "white stuff" you are going to use for your poultice powder base ... get some diatomaceous earth ("DE"). You can get this really CHEAP at a pool supply store or free if you know someone with a pool that uses it. It is used in some pool filtering equipment. I went to the pool supply store and they gave me some since all I wanted was a small amount.
Good info on stain removal:
From www.stone-panels.com/details/stains.doc
Iron (rust) - Poultice with Oxalic Acid + Powder + Water. May also try a product called Iron-Out (available at hardware stores). Both mixtures may etch polished marble, so re-polishing will be necessary.
Ink - Poultice with Mineral Spirits or Methylene Chloride +Powder.
Oil - Poultice with Ammonia+ Powder Methylene Chloride can also be used on tough oil stains.
Coffee, Tea & Food - Poultice with 20 percent Hydrogen Peroxide + Powder.
Copper - Poultice with Ammonium Chloride + Powder
Paint (water-based) - poultice with a commercial paint remover + Powder
Paint (oil) - Poultice with Mineral Spirits + Powder. Deep stains may require Methylene Chloride.
HTH
MaryT"

Hope that helps!! Good Luck!!

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clipped on: 07.15.2008 at 06:54 am    last updated on: 07.15.2008 at 06:59 am

RE: lifetime sealer (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: bill_vincent on 07.13.2008 at 05:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

smarge-- his products are all top notch. Just a little tough to get a hold of sometimes.

timss-- Just because the stone shows a wet spot doesn't mean the sealer's not working! Most good sealers made today are what's called "breatheable", meaning moisture can't be trapped in the stone, causing all kinds of problems. It CAN transmit back and forth thru the sealer. But ONLY the moisture will transmit-- not any solids in it, which is what causes stains.

dabunch-- look for one of three-- Aquamix Sealers Choice Gold, Miracle's 511 Impregnator, or Stone Tech's Impregnator Pro.

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clipped on: 07.15.2008 at 06:58 am    last updated on: 07.15.2008 at 06:58 am