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Tiny vanity with vessel sink?

posted by: rmlanza on 08.29.2007 at 07:21 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hi everyone, I'm new here and usually hang out over at the kitchens forum. We're doing a major kitchen remodel because of water damage to our hardwood floors. The water was from the water line to our refrigerator and it leaked under the wall and into the powder room. So it, too, is getting a mini remodel. My problem is that it is a tiny little powder room with a pedestal sink. There are a lot of wonky angles in the room and, sorry to get graphic here, but when you're standing up from the toilet you're in real danger of bonking your head on the edge of the sink. I desperately want a copper vessel sink though and I'm thinking I could replace the pedestal with a rounded vanity or maybe even tuck it over in the corner a bit. But where can I find the vanity without the sink already in it? I haven't found the shape I want with a copper bowl. Can you use pretty much anything for the vanity and stick a countertop on it and a sink? Is there any reason it has to be a "vanity" to make it into a vanity? Sorry to be so dumb but I've never remodeled a bathroom before. Can anyone point me to a site that might have a wide selection of petite vanities on which I can put my own sink and not one that has them already built in?
Thanks so much!
PS I'd post pictures but the only one I have of this bathroom has my daughter (then 2) sitting on the toilet and the sink has since been removed so the floor can go in.


clipped on: 12.26.2007 at 03:57 pm    last updated on: 12.26.2007 at 03:58 pm

hmg58's almost finished master bath

posted by: hmg58 on 08.09.2007 at 05:53 pm in Bathrooms Forum

In my bad tile thread I promised pictures of the remodel. There's still work to be done, but you can get the idea of the space from these.
Thanks to everyone who has helped pull this together. (Nods to Jill 77 wherever you are...)
Webshots went a bit funky on me for some of the pictures and when you click on an individual picture it doesn't show right unless you then click on full size over to the right--sorry!

Here is a link that might be useful: master bath remodel


clipped on: 09.25.2007 at 09:24 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2007 at 09:24 pm

RE: Help! What floor goes w/1936 Lavender Tile? (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: susulo on 06.10.2007 at 11:00 am in Bathrooms Forum

Hi All! Im finally done with getting the adhesive off! The floor is still a little sticky, but I think that will subside as we continue to walk on it. I went over the floor 2x with Oops, and I scrubbed and rinsed with soap and water 2x as well.

Rococogurl, yes I made sure I had enough ventilation! Opened the window, had a fan, etcbut the smell was still over-powering. Im going to look into muriatic acid and the grout cleaner at home depotas Im on a mission to get this floor as clean and as good looking as I possibly can! Also, we are having our living room hw floors re-done the first week in July (those were ruined by the POs as well) so Im going to ask our contractor if he can clean up the bathroom floor even further. He was going to do our bathroom floor for us before I discovered what was really under those tiles! Hell be bummed he lost that job.

DH was also excited about the new old floor! We both keep walking by it to check it out; its like a totally new room. He was so excited that he insisted on getting a new all black shower curtain (dont know if its too much black in there now?) so we drove all over creation looking for one. We went to LNT, Kohls, Macys, JCP, Country Curtains and finally found one at Bed Bath & Beyond. Who knew finding a black shower curtain would be so hard?

As you will see in the pics, the sink and toilet are very close to each other (I think a pedestal will really open that space up and won't seem so cramped) and right next to the sink is a built-in towel bar, so that really limits me putting in a free-standing cabinet. On the wall, we do have some built in shelves in the corner. I was thinking of asking our contractor if he could make that into a cabinet (we're not handy)? I think all he would have to do is build a frame so I could add a door? And if he could do that, that could possibly be a storage solutionI could then hide all the junk that is in those vanity drawers in that little cabinet.

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We have pulls, they were taken off when it got painted....and never got put back on. No need now, now that it is going to the trash! LOL.

Johnmari, if you look to the left of the toilet, and you can barely see it, but next to it is the chrome toilet brush holder! I showed DH the link you provided and he wanted to get that! Thanks for the tip.

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Possible cabinet?

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clipped on: 09.25.2007 at 09:07 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2007 at 09:07 pm

RE: How big should a soap niche be? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: mongoct on 04.24.2007 at 07:52 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I though this niche would be larger than needed...but I'm hearing rumors that the wife has already taken over both shelves.

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It's 36" wide.



clipped on: 09.25.2007 at 08:30 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2007 at 08:30 pm

RE: Niche in the shower: How many did you use? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: budge1 on 08.23.2007 at 12:02 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I wholeheartedly agree with tom. We have one niche with 3 levels and is filling up rapidly. I have two girls who will one day be teenagers and will likely have more hair products than I can count so we went as big as we could.
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clipped on: 09.25.2007 at 08:25 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2007 at 08:25 pm

RE: Bill V - exact tile size (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bill_vincent on 04.30.2007 at 05:55 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hey sid-- I was wondering if you'd gotten the tile yet or not. :-) As for setting yourself up for full tile on the niches, You want to check your coursing-- how you're going to lay it out from floor to ceiling. Once you've got that figured out, the next thing to decide is how you want to do the niche-- do you want to bring the walltile in flush to the four sides, and run the bullnose on the inside of the niche, or do you want to frame the niche with the bullnose, so that it caps the edges of the niche tiles? One thing that's important to remember-- no matter which way you do it, you want the "shelf" itself to overlap the walltile edge on the bottom of the niche, so that the tile can drain off the edge of the niche. The other three sides, though can be capped if you'd rather. Once you've got this figured out, then you can decide where exactly you need to locate them. Keep in mind when you're framing the opening, that you need to take into accound the thickness of the cement board, as well as the tile and 1/16" for the thinset under the tile on each side. On top of that, I'll normally add 1/2" or so as a "fudge factor". This way, if you're off just a hair, you have the play to work with, and if not, you can just build up the pieces with stiff thinset.

Okay. So lets say, for example, with the 12x12 niche, you're going to have the bullnose frame 3 sides of the niche. You've got the 12" opening, and in addition, you're going to need 1/2" on all four sides for the cement board. You're also going to need to add 3/8" on 3 of the 4 sides for tile and thinset (assuming this is normal ceramic, which is usually 5/16" thick). If you noticed, I haven't added any thickness for the waterproofing membrane, because it's pretty much paper thin, and won't add any appreciable thickness. So now, Including everything you need to take into account, you've got a rough framed opening of 13 3/8 high by 13 3/4" wide. Now, add another 1/2" for the "fudge factor", and your opening should be 13 7/8"x 14 1/4", which is just about what you have widthwise in a normal framing bay. But figure out where you want the bottom of the rough opening to be by figuring where your coursing will fall, and install your shelf 2x4 at a height which will be approximately 3/4" lower than the top of full coursing. That'll give you the thickness of the cement board, and 1/4" play, so that the shelf tile will stick out over the edge of the wall tile and cap it. One last thing, and this is very important-- whether you cant the 2x4, or just build up the back edge of the shelf tile-- that shelf NEEDS to be pitched out.

Any questions?



clipped on: 09.25.2007 at 08:11 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2007 at 08:11 pm

RE: Another question on Pocket Doors! (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: brickeyee on 01.01.2007 at 02:06 pm in Remodeling Forum

"He says you can only use very plain doors so it won't match the rest of the house which is about 100 yrs old. Is this correct?"

Dead wrong. You can use any door you want with pocket hardware. Door thickness is limited if you use the pre-fab jamb systems.
The biggest issue with pocket doors is meeting the outlet spacing rules and installing switches.
If you want a standard thickness wall (about 5.5 inches) you cannot mount any electric boxes in the walls at the pocket.
If you can tolerate a wet wall thickness (about 6.5 inches) you can install electrical boxes but typically would not use the pre-fab door kit. Instead you turn the studs flat (and I bump them up to 2x6 width) and use 4x4 boxes that are 1.25 inches deep with a plaster ring.
The wall is a lot stiffer.
The other problem with the Johnson kits is preventing door swing. The plastic guides they supply tend to scratch the face of the door.
I install a section of aluminum angle in the floor of the pocket and groove the bottom of the door.
If the door has panels or is non-flat you typically need to mount a strip of wood on the pocket side of the door edge to make it wider and keep the decoration centered when the door is closed.


clipped on: 01.01.2007 at 08:22 pm    last updated on: 01.01.2007 at 08:22 pm

RE: Opinions on this bathroom layout? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: mightyanvil on 08.07.2006 at 12:18 pm in Building a Home Forum

I would get rid of the "lost corners" in the closets and push the bathroom wall up a foot so the large elements of the bathroom plan will all fit.

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clipped on: 12.30.2006 at 01:48 pm    last updated on: 12.30.2006 at 01:48 pm

RE: electric radiant heat for bathroom floor (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: armstrr on 10.28.2006 at 07:05 pm in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

i have just ordered supplies to do this to. i found 4-5 ebay retailers. the 1st responce about the mats costing a lot more is correct. i got a very nice programmable thermostat that will even tell you how much time/day it was on.

if you go the cable route, Elektra is a great brand...a little more money, but it is thinner and has a lower output per meter (10 watts) which means you will get longer cables spaced closer together for more even heating. note also that some cables need to be attached from both ends, while some only at one end. i chose to purchase mine from....bulgaria. yup...the company has been making their cables for the european market for about 15 years. their cables are a little thicker and about 14w/m, but $$$ savings counts when you are gutting a whole house. i'm getting two 220V 560wat cables for about 145 including shipping. each for between 48-60sf.


clipped on: 12.30.2006 at 11:00 am    last updated on: 12.30.2006 at 11:00 am

RE: Cost of Frameless Shower Door (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: Jill_77 on 08.20.2005 at 12:42 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I have a 3/8" thick tempered enclosure (2 sides glass). One side is 4'w x 8' high, other is 6'6"w x 8' high. I have the heaviest duty (and therefore most expensive) hinges because the door is 34" wide, plus there's a working transom over the door. Installed price = $1600. (That does not include the handle, which I purchased elsewhere and they installed.) Other quotes ranged from $2500-$4000. Most all glass companies use the same supplier (CR Laurence) for the hardware. FWIW, I priced it out on, and it was much higher (although I did order the real chrome glass channel from them, and they are very nice to deal with.) Shop around, look for small glass companies that are maybe not in the best part of town, and you'll probably find a huge savings.
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clipped on: 09.08.2006 at 12:57 pm    last updated on: 09.08.2006 at 12:57 pm