Clippings by linnea56

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Earwig trap

posted by: oilpainter on 06.16.2010 at 12:23 am in Growing from Seed Forum

Earwigs were eating my marigolds. I figured there were a lot of little ones around because they stripped a couple to skeletons on Sunday night.

When I discovered it on Monday I went to mix up a concoction of Molasses, Oil and Soy Sauce. No Molasses-- so I substituted corn syrup. I mixed it in a baby food jar, buried it and propped the lid over it. I had to be out on Tuesday, but I checked it when I got home around 3.

Wonderful--The jar was over half full of baby earwigs that will be eating no more of my Marigolds I threw out the bottle and bugs and made a new trap this time used a big prescription bottle. We'll see what I will get with this one.

This has to be the best trap for earwigs. Better than earwig bait or anything else I've tried and believe me I've tried most chemical or organic traps. I'm also happy Corn Syrup works because I usually have it on hand and don't use Molasses for baking, so it takes a trip to the grocery.


clipped on: 07.11.2013 at 09:51 pm    last updated on: 07.11.2013 at 09:51 pm

RE: Can you divide a heuchera? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: ginny12 on 05.30.2013 at 03:08 pm in Heuchera Forum

Heucheras are one of the easiest plants to divide. You can often do it with your bare hands. In fact, they like being divided and buried deeper every couple of years with fresh soil.

The best heuchera gardener I ever knew dug up all of them every year and divided hers. They thrived on it.

If you buy an expensive one, and it's big enough to divide, you can get two for one by dividing. With good fertilizing and watering, in a short time you won't notice the difference.


clipped on: 07.01.2013 at 11:16 pm    last updated on: 07.01.2013 at 11:16 pm

RE: Japanese beetles, Bye-Bye (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: mskb on 07.13.2011 at 12:41 am in Garden Clinic Forum

I have an effective method for ridding your garden of Japanese beetles that involves no chemicals or those horrid, beetle-attracting traps: Collect beetles in oil in a deli container. Repeat over period of days until beetles disappear.

Long version:
1) Pour about 3-4 inches of super cheap salad oil in a wide mouth deli container. (A Dollar Store pint+ container with a screw top is the best collector.)
2) Slowly approach a plant infested with Japanese beetles.
3) Position the container just beneath the beetles.
4) Position your free hand (or better yet, the lid of the container) horizontally over the beetles, moving swiftly downward.
5) The natural defense of Japanese beetles is to drop straight downward. 98% of them will quickly drop into the oil and will be dead in about 5 seconds.
6) Make a circuit around to the plants in your garden. When I used this method, by the time I got around once, the plants where I had begun often had beetles again. Keep beetle hunting for several days. You will feel obsessive, but all for a good cause.

Five years ago we could peel back our lawn because the JB larvae had destroyed the root system. Through patience and consistency, I was able to get rid of many hundreds of beetles. Mating pairs are worth extra points for the population growth averted. This method is a direct attack on the beetles without endangering the birds or the well water. The beetles were gone completely for about five years and our grass is in good shape. Today I noted a small number of beetles had come to visit, and I started the method once again. It still works like a charm.


clipped on: 07.18.2011 at 11:57 pm    last updated on: 07.18.2011 at 11:57 pm

RE: deadheading Knockout roses?? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: alina_1 on 07.08.2011 at 02:01 pm in Perennials Forum

I use Rose-Tone (organic fertilizer). My Double Knock Out roses bloom virtually non-stop till frosts, although the first flush is the most prolific. Roses are heavy feeders.



clipped on: 07.18.2011 at 01:07 pm    last updated on: 07.18.2011 at 01:13 pm

RE: Online Perennial Database? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: arbo_retum on 07.11.2011 at 08:56 pm in Perennials Forum

MOBOT is terrific/ my fav.

but remember, GOOGLE is your best friend. Type in the latin or common name, look through the various sites and find the ones that please you. same with Google Image; that's how i found MOBOT.
also, various plant types have their own best web sites (like the Clematis Society for clems.)including specialty nurseries . Ex.: Plant Delights for rare perennials; Broken Arrow for woodies; Forest Farm for trees and shrubs and conifers; Buchholz and Buchholz for J Maples etc.
I usually find the best info and the best photos- at different sites.

Here is a link that might be useful: univ of missouri botanical/MOBOT


clipped on: 07.18.2011 at 12:57 pm    last updated on: 07.18.2011 at 12:57 pm

RE: Discounted plants: how do I tell if they're salvagable? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: billums_ms_7b on 07.14.2011 at 01:51 pm in Perennials Forum

I won't buy distressed annuals, but I'll take a chance on discounted perennials if they are discounted enough.

What you want to have is a nice nursery bed where you can place plants you want to baby back into good health.

Find a nice shady spot (dappled shade is good) near a source of water, and create a bed with good quality soil that will be big enough to hold the babies you rescue until it cools off enough to plant them in a permanent spot.

You want it to retain moisture, but also to drain well. I put down a layer of sand and then a layer of good quality bagged potting soil.

After that, you put your "lightly killed" rescue plants into the nursery bed and keep them moist. I've had perennials that didn't have a single living leaf on them (but with root systems that looked fine) leaf back out and survive until it cooled off enough to find them a permanent spot for planting in the fall.

I've got a whole lot of different clematis I paid a quarter apiece for. You can score some deals.


clipped on: 07.18.2011 at 12:27 pm    last updated on: 07.18.2011 at 12:27 pm

RE: How to plant Elephant ear (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: leslie197 on 03.17.2006 at 09:23 am in Bulbs Forum


If I left them outside in their pots, they would all die for sure! We're too wet and cold here in Michigan. SW Ohio may or may not be warm enough in winter. I just don't know.

The normal procedure here is to dig them up and store them dry over the winter and restart them in spring. But they will work as potted plants indoors as well. One year when we were expecting an early freezing rain, I dragged the very large pots into the house. Never got them back out until the next spring! LOL

Inside in their pots by the patio door they live quite nicely all winter. What usually happens is that the large leaves (which are way to big inside the house anyway when they have been outside all summer) die off slowly, giving me back my kitchen :~), and are replaced by new smaller leaves which in the case of Black Magic are more olive color than black when inside the house. It still makes a pretty velvety-leaved plant.

Lime Zinger does the same, however Frydek seems to sulk. I stick it over in a sunless corner of the kitchen along with a single Clivia miniata in its own pot and let them sit out the winter without water. Frydek goes dormant. The Clivia keeps its leathery leaves and looks exactly the same for 3 or 4 months. In March/April I give them each a drink of water and Frydek reawakens. I continue watering it as it starts to put out leaves. The Clivia still sits there looking the same! I may or may not give it another drink of water until late May when I put it outside again. Both take copious amounts of water outside in summer and moderate (to almost none for the Clivia)amounts inside when they are waking up in spring.


storing elephant ear over winter as potted plant
clipped on: 05.29.2011 at 03:33 pm    last updated on: 05.29.2011 at 03:33 pm

RE: New Heucheras This Year? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: the_plant_geek on 02.08.2011 at 11:42 pm in Perennials Forum

Best place to start for growing them: Well drained organic rich soil with consistent moisture. This should be a coarser soil than woodland conditions. Aged pine bark or a mineral component (fine gravel, coarse sand, gypsum, perlite etc) helps with this. Morning sun, but be prepared to move plants if they have too much or too little light. Consistent moisture. I know I said this once, but it's important. They don't want to be dry, they don't want to be too wet either. Once the soil freezes in winter, use pine boughs or shredded leaves as a winter mulch. This protects the crown from dessication and prevents frost heave. Remove this once the snow melts in spring to prevent crown rot. Clean up the old foliage at this point.

After this it's trial and error to find the varieties that work for you. Villosa hybrids are a good place to start.

The Plant Geek


clipped on: 05.03.2011 at 08:41 pm    last updated on: 05.03.2011 at 08:41 pm

RE: How to plant Elephant ear (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: leslie197 on 03.15.2006 at 01:19 pm in Bulbs Forum

You can pot it up now and get it started in the house if you want, but you probably won't want to take it outside in zone 5 until annual planting time in the latter half of May or so.

I never actually unpot mine as you are supposed to do and store dry over the winter. I just drag the things inside and out each year in their pots. I have 3 varieties. All winter over in their pots right next to my patio door (which faces south) limp along through our long winter putting out the occasional small leaf, and go into high gear once outside again.

Black Magic

Image hosting by Photobucket


clipped on: 04.20.2011 at 08:05 pm    last updated on: 04.20.2011 at 08:05 pm

RE: I have an idea on saving money on planting mix (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: morz8 on 03.25.2011 at 05:01 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Seed starting mixes are lightweight, finely textured, and sterile to discourage the pathogens that can wreak havoc on seedlings indoors where there is limited air movement and fairly steady temperatures, no ups and downs.

Nothing is sterile outdoors, and there is no need for it to be - wind, sun, rain, fluctuating temps take care of those issues.


clipped on: 04.02.2011 at 02:57 pm    last updated on: 04.02.2011 at 02:57 pm

Winter Sowing in April

posted by: jaggudada on 03.29.2011 at 02:40 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Instead of going the typical WSing route which is started in Dec/Jan/Feb.

Can you start WSing vegetables in April and get a head start by about a month as most stuff can go in ground after last frost which for my zone is around May 20th.

Correct me if I'm wrong but all container WSing is doing is creating a little greenhouse thereby raising the inside temperature by 10-20 degrees so in a nutshell you are creating May temperatures in April. So use the same method but start in April. Grow in containers for about a month and half and then stick'em in ground. Has anyone done this? and what was the outcome?


clipped on: 04.02.2011 at 02:55 pm    last updated on: 04.02.2011 at 02:55 pm

RE: Planting Ranunculus bulbs (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: keriann_lakegeneva on 06.15.2010 at 06:56 am in Bulbs Forum

Mine are in bloom right now!

They are SO worth the extra effort. They are loaded with blooms and just so amazing with their hundreds of petals. They started to piddle off when we got a 'heat-wave' of 90* weather but now that it is back down in the 50/70* they are loving it and blooming like crazy.

I highly suggest this plant/tuber/root/thing!



clipped on: 03.29.2011 at 09:12 pm    last updated on: 03.29.2011 at 09:12 pm

List to-date... (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: buehl on 03.01.2010 at 07:09 pm in Kitchens Forum


  • Granite & Quartz: Microfiber cloth along with one of the following...
    • In a spray bottle50/50 put a mix of alcohol & water plus a drop or two of detergent like Dawn.
    • Hand dish detergent & water (go light on the detergent if your stone is dark)
    • Commercial products: Method granite cleaner & polish, Perfect Kitchen, Simple Green
    • When cleaning, wipe/dry in circles to help prevent streaks with any cleaner/polish
    • **Warning** Do not use plumber's putty on your marble or granite counters to install your faucets or soap dispensers or with a composite granite (e.g., Silgranit) sink

    Question: Do those of you with marble use the alcohol/water mix, detergent/water mix, Method, or Perfect Kitchen?

  • Marble:
    • Because of the composition of the stone, it is a good idea to clean marble surfaces immediately after any spills take place. While water will not cause any permanent damage, many other liquids will cause scarring if allowed to set for an extended amount of time. Soft drinks, wine, any type of vinegar, and even orange or grapefruit juice can discolor the appearance.
    • Immediately, wipe up the spill with a damp cloth, then rinse the area with tepid water. Be sure to pat the area dry with a clean cloth.
    • If you have to deal with a tough stain, try using plain ammonia. Allow the ammonia to set on the dried stain for a few moments, then begin to scrub the area with a moistened cloth. Once the stain is up, wet the area with tepid water, then pat the section of the marble counter top dry.
    • Abrasive cleansers should be avoided at all costs, as they will leave scratches in the surface.

  • Wood:

  • Stainless Steel, Copper, etc.: Microfiber cloth along with one of the following...


  • Stainless Steel Appliances: Microfiber cloth along with one of the following...
    • Weiman SS Cleaner/Polish in the silver can
    • Pledge in the brown can
    • 3M SS Cleaner and Polish (aerosol spray)
    • Possibly: Signature Polish (I have not heard of this b/f & would like to hear from others who have used it...I like to have multiple recommendations b/f I will say "definitely)

  • Ceramic/Glass cooktops/ranges:
    • Ceramic/glass oven surface cleaner
    • Razor blade for stuck-on food

  • Non-Ceramic/Glass top ranges/cooktops:
    • BarKeeper's Friend or Dawn Power Dissolver (and a blue scrub sponge) for a thorough cleaning of the black burner pans
    • Perfect Kitchen for spot cleaning the black enamel burner pans on Wolf ranges
    • Baking soda and a damp cloth. Dampen the area with the cloth, sprinkle the baking soda on the stains, & let sit for 5 or 10 minutes. Then gently wipe the baking soda and stains clean with the cloth

Floors & Backsplashes (Wood, Tile, etc.)

  • Tile Floors & Backsplashes:
    • Hot water should be all you need for most of the time.
    • If you need a grease-cutter, use Oxyclean.
    • **Warning** Do not use vinegar or vinegar-containing products. Yes, vinegar will clean your grout, but that's because vinegar works by eating away at the grout, little by little. It'll literally burn the grout away over time.

  • Travertine Tile Floors & Backsplashes:
    • See "Tile" above plus...
    • **Warning** Do not use vinegar or other acid-containing cleaners on stone floors
    • **Warning** Do not use cleaners like bathroom cleaners, grout cleaners, or tub & tile cleaners (they may contain acid)
    • **Warning** Do not use abrasive cleaners

  • Hardwood Floors:
    • Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner

  • Slate Floors:
    • ???

  • Slate Backsplashes:
    • ???

  • Marble Floors:
    • See Marble Countertops above, plus...
    • With dried stains on the floor, create a solution of plain ammonia and warm water. Use a sponge mop to work the solution into the stain and gradually lift it from the marble. Take your time and allow the ammonia to seep into the stain. Doing so will mean less pressure applied to the mop, which will minimize the chances of accidentally scratching the surface as you clean marble tiles or panels


  • Stained Cabinets:
    • A soft cotton cloth is recommended to wipe any moisture, spills or standing liquid from cabinetry. While paper products are very good at absorbing spills, they are abrasive when used for cleaning.
    • To clean cabinetry, use a soft cotton cloth, dampened with water or a mild dish soap. Rinse with a clean damp cloth. Dry with a soft cloth.
    • Harsh chemicals or ammonia based products should be avoided as they may cause discoloration of the finish.
    • Do not use detergents, oily polishes, or glass cleaners.
    • An occasional light waxing may be required. Avoid frequent cleaning with a waxy cleaner. Use a good furniture brand polish on your cabinetry

  • Painted Cabinets:
    • Damp (not too wet), soft cloth or sponge and mild detergent

  • Laminate Cabinets:
    • Use a damp cloth and water to clean surface of cabinetry, then wipe with a dry cloth.
    • Use a countertop or tile cleaner to clean heavy grease stains or other difficult stains.
    • **Warning** Do not use abrasive pads or harsh cleaners to clean soiled areas.

  • High Gloss Cabinet Finishes:
    • Clean high gloss cabinetry with mild soap and a damp cloth.
    • **Warning** Do not use any wax cleaner whatsoever to avoid discoloration

Sinks and Sink Fixtures

  • Stainless Steel Sinks:
    • Mild detergent & water
    • BarKeeper's Friend (it will also help minimize the look of scratches on the bottom of a sink)

  • Composite Granite (Silgranit) Sinks:
    • **Warning** Do not use plumber's putty on your marble or granite counters to install your faucets or soap dispensers or with a composite granite (e.g., Silgranit) sink

  • Porcelain Coated Cast Iron Sinks:

  • Nickel fixtures (polished or brushed):
    • Mild detergent & water
    • **Warning** Do not install a nickel strainer or drain (stick with Stainless Steel or Chrome)
    • **Warning** Do not use BarKeeper's Friend or other chemicals on nickel
    • **Warning** Do not use bleach on nickel


clipped on: 03.23.2011 at 01:06 pm    last updated on: 03.23.2011 at 01:06 pm

RE: KIWI- anyone grow in z.5? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: logrock on 06.25.2010 at 01:58 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

You have a beautiful garden there Arbo!

This is a little late but a few things worth mentioning for anyone who stumbles upon this thread.

There are superior varieties of fruiting hardy kiwi (a.arguta) that were selected from breeding programs at Michigan State University and Cornell (Geneva) in NY which I think are both Zone5-ish or cooler. The true MSU variety is a hybrid with a.kolomikta, but is supposed to produce relatively large fruit. I have MSU growing here (in NW GA) that I obtained from NCGR in Corvallis and although it is growing very well, it did not flower this year.

Also, the University of Minnesota currently has a long term research project going on with a.kolomikta varieties for northern climates.

And as further evidence that they grow well in MA, this bulletin says they were evaluated for possible invasiveness.

Good luck to all the other kiwigrowers out there,
Ron (my garden blog)


clipped on: 03.15.2011 at 04:42 pm    last updated on: 03.15.2011 at 04:42 pm

RE: Critter Dec (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: dawn_t on 01.09.2011 at 10:04 am in Home Decorating Forum

It was a struggle to find complementary flooring...



From a DEcorating forum thread on decorating around your pets
clipped on: 01.15.2011 at 11:43 pm    last updated on: 01.15.2011 at 11:47 pm

RE: whoops, need coconut oil ideas, please! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: terri_pacnw on 12.18.2010 at 05:08 pm in Cooking Forum

Well I do use virgin coconut oil for my skin and hair. The scent dissipates. Here are some recipe from the place I buy my Coconut Oil and Palm Shortening.
Tropical Traditions

Cookie recipes:
Chocolate Chip Cookies

Another one, I've made this one. Bye Bye Butter CC Cookies

Here is a link that might be useful: 101 Cookbooks, coconut oil recipes


clipped on: 12.19.2010 at 02:28 pm    last updated on: 12.19.2010 at 02:28 pm

RE: whoops, need coconut oil ideas, please! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: grainlady on 12.19.2010 at 06:13 am in Cooking Forum

The scented coconut oil is the "secret" ingredient in brownies, quick breads, power bars, granola, cookies and bar cookies, at our house. When it's coupled with another strong flavor, especially in a recipe where there is not a lot of fat to begin with, it's not as prominent. Muffins, which only take a couple T. of oil is a good match.

Mix it with peanut butter, especially fresh peanut butter you make at home. The mixture will now keep well in a cool kitchen on a shelf and not require refrigeration. Use it as a spread on your toast. We did this for years and now I see it's a product they are selling at Tropical Traditions.

Mix it 50/50 with unscented coconut oil or butter to tame it down a bit for cooking/baking.



clipped on: 12.19.2010 at 02:27 pm    last updated on: 12.19.2010 at 02:27 pm

RE: Substituting light sour cream? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: lpinkmountain on 12.19.2010 at 01:53 pm in Cooking Forum

Don't confuse FAT FREE sour cream with "Light" or "Lite" sour cream which is slightly less fat than whole sour cream and works fine for baking. It's ok for sauces too, but since in a sauce it is a flavor carrier, low fat sour cream makes a somewhat bland sauce. I use "lite" sour cream exclusively in dips, etc. Now, for baking, I often sub NON FAT (that's zero fat) yogurt when sour cream is called for. I have never had a problem. In fact, in baking I interchange buttermilk, lite sour cream and non fat plain yogurt. I realize there may be subtle differences but I have not noticed them much.

Lower fat baked good have one issue though, they do not keep as long as the fuller fat ones. They dry out faster.


clipped on: 12.19.2010 at 02:11 pm    last updated on: 12.19.2010 at 02:11 pm

RE: Who has 'Supreme' drapes from Penney's? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: sandra_zone6 on 12.08.2010 at 10:07 pm in Home Decorating Forum

No, sorry Franksmom, I have not. I took them down when I repainted my room, aired them out, checked them over, steamed them when I rehung. The lining has not deteriorated or discolored in the year I have had them. I am hard on them; between our family, our pets and the fact that I burn wood in this room 24/7 from November through March or April.

I have 12 of them in my family room. For the cost, I am very pleased with these panels. I checked out many different draperies before settling on these; I returned many from Penneys and Pottery Barn, got samples from many places, but for the cost, I couldn't beat these and I loved the fabric on these most of all.

The only negative I would put out there is that the quality control is not 100% there; all was well with all my panels other than the length. Order more, return the extras, be sure to search out coupon codes.

I am still pleased with my purchase.


clipped on: 12.08.2010 at 10:28 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2010 at 10:28 pm

RE: Need great sweet potato recipe (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: chase on 11.17.2010 at 01:59 pm in Cooking Forum

Very similar to the one barnmom posted but it's Katiec's recipe and very yummy.

Sweet Potato And Caramelized Onion Casserole (Katiec)

2 large sweet potatoes -- peeled and
thinly sliced
2 large onions -- sliced
1 Tbsp olive oil
2 Tbsp butter
1 Tbsp dark brown sugar

Drizzle onions with oil and cook on low heat until caramelized, stirring occasionally.

Layer 1/2 sweet potato slices in a shallow 1 qt. casserole dish. Cover with caramelized onions. Layer remaining sweet potato slices over onions. Dot with butter, sprinkle with brown sugar.

Bake uncovered at 350F for about an hour or until casserole is browned on top.


clipped on: 11.17.2010 at 07:51 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2010 at 07:52 pm

RE: Need great sweet potato recipe (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: bizzo on 11.17.2010 at 04:52 pm in Cooking Forum

Lpinkmountain posted this one on my roasted veggie salad thread...
Laurie posted:
Here's the recipe, courtesy of the Food Network Web site. I don't follow it exactly, just use the ingredients as a guide and wing it. The recipe as written has too much oil and vinegar for my taste.

Grilled Sweet Potato and Scallion Salad
Recipe courtesy Bobby Flay
Prep Time: 14 min Inactive Prep Time: -- Cook Time: 8 min Level:
Easy Serves:
8 servings Ingredients
4 large sweet potatoes, par-cooked and cut into 1/2-inch slices
8 scallions
3/4 cup olive oil, divided
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
2 teaspoons honey
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley


clipped on: 11.17.2010 at 07:51 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2010 at 07:51 pm

My first Craigslist transformation, I'm pretty proud of myself!

posted by: alex9179 on 10.25.2010 at 03:31 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I bought these chairs for a friend of mine, with her approval of course. I'd love to learn how to upholster furniture and I figured this would be managable for a newbie. I've done one chair and have stripped the other. The second will be more challenging because all but one spring needs to be replaced. The hardest part is finding the materials locally!
Chairs were $30 for the pair
Fabric $5 remnant marked down at Hobby Lobby
Trim $2 for 4 yards (40% coupon)
HD Foam $20 for both seats, sale at Joann's
I also bought tacks, tack lifter, dacron, and now springs but really not bad since I've seen chairs like this for beaucoup bucks.
I think I've found my new hobby, it's really a lot of fun!




Reupholsering a chair with springs
clipped on: 10.27.2010 at 12:21 pm    last updated on: 10.27.2010 at 12:22 pm

Paintergirl....What a talent you are!!!!

posted by: msrose on 09.16.2010 at 08:32 am in Home Decorating Forum

I looked at your webpage and was amazed by the talent you have and just wanted everyone else to see (hope you don't mind). The first thing that caught my attention was the faux bois and how much it looks like the real thing and the gorgeous murals. I want a mural in my house now! I adore the bench and window painting at the end of the hall. What a great idea.

I sure wish you were in Texas!


Here is a link that might be useful: Paintergirl's website


clipped on: 09.27.2010 at 11:38 pm    last updated on: 09.27.2010 at 11:38 pm

RE: Favorite Heucheras This Season? (Follow-Up #53)

posted by: anitamo on 06.08.2010 at 12:02 pm in Perennials Forum

That 'Berry Smoothie' is gorgeous! I need to find that one this year. I came across a video that shows how to divide heucheras in case anyone hasn't seen it yet. Look to the bottom left of the linked page to see the icon for the video.

Here is a link that might be useful: dividing heuchera


clipped on: 06.15.2010 at 09:03 pm    last updated on: 06.15.2010 at 09:04 pm

RE: Favorite Heucheras This Season? (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: kowalleka on 03.13.2010 at 07:45 am in Perennials Forum

I have tons of success with rooting "cuttings" of heuchera. I pull off the tiny little plantlets that start to form along the sides of the main plant.

I use a gallon milk jug to root them in. Cut the jug in half almost all the way around. Leave it connected over by the handle so you have sort of a hinge. Poke a few holes inthe bottom for drainage. Fill with about 2" of potting soil. Wet it down and put in the babies. Then close the jug and duct tape along the cut edge. Do not put the cap on the jug. Put in a light but shaded spot. You don't need to water if you do it in the spring. Within a few weeks, they will all be rooted. I like this method because you can plant them and forget them.


clipped on: 06.15.2010 at 08:55 pm    last updated on: 06.15.2010 at 08:55 pm

Ho fun noodles

posted by: gellchom on 02.25.2010 at 02:35 pm in Cooking Forum

I am just crazy about dishes made with these very very very wide Chinese (I think) rice noodles. (We can't help but call them "No Fun Noodles" ever since we saw the hilarious "Belching Dragon Menu" from MAD -- see link.)

But I had some trouble finding recipes and instructions for using the noodles. (Actually, I had trouble finding the noodles themselves, until I learned that they come fresh and uncut in a folded over slab -- looks like a fingertip towel.)

I looked at several recipes and made a beef dish based on what I'd learned. That came out great -- luckily, because I made a TON. Even for a Chinese food leftover lover like me, it's a lot!

I get the feeling that you can use any stir fry recipe you like, and just cut the noodles and put them in at the appropriate time. The recipes and blogs I found seemed to reflect common frustration with using them without at least some precooking, but what's the best way?

Does anyone have any advice about cutting, preparing, and otherwise using these wonderful noodles? I am getting near the end of the leftovers and I know I'm going to want them again soon --

Thanks in advance.

Here is a link that might be useful: Belching Dragon Menu


wide noodles
clipped on: 03.31.2010 at 04:54 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2010 at 04:54 pm

RE: Which species are easy to grow? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: chowdhry on 03.09.2010 at 10:47 pm in Lily Forum

I have not grown L. pumilum. I am not an expert, but I have tried some from seeds. here is the seed germination guide for species:
Various Lilium Species Germination Methods
by Darm Crook

In this article I will attempt to outline the methods of germination used by the various Lilium species I have grown. Obviously it will not be all-inclusive, as I have not grown every species. As well, the time period from date of planting to germination will be given. This time period however, can vary a lot from one planting to another, as many factors have an effect on the seed's ability to germinate in a timely fashion. Some of these factors are: condition of seed; age of seed if it has not been kept frozen after proper drying; moisture (too much or too little); temperatures; method of planting. Most lilies need an acidic based soil. Those that need an alkaline based soil are identified as such in the various lists. When reviewing this article please keep in mind that the information comes from growing lilies in my soil (high humus, well drained) and climatic conditions (zone 1, Canadian scale).

The following species germinate as immediate epigeal and produce their cotyledon over the time frames given. There will be a few seeds in almost every seed lot that germinate slower than these time frames. As a rule with immediate epigeal germinating lilies, the first true leaf will emerge about 4 weeks after the cotyledon. Most epigeal germinating lilies will flower the second year from the time they are planted out. Where they do so otherwise, they are marked accordingly.

L. amabile and its varieties - 8 to 20 days - I have trouble with this one and can not figure out why. Alkaline soil required.
L. callosum - 15 to 30 days - I have been unable to flower this lily as it emerges too late in the season to flower in my growing environment.
L. candidum - 12 to 25 days - Yet to flower.
L. catesbaei - some of its seeds will germinate at room temperatures in 20 to 25 days, other seeds need temperatures of +10C for 30 to 40 days. Yet to flower.
L. cernuum and its variety alba - 10 to 30 days. About 75 percent of L. cernuum seedlings will go dormant without putting up a true leaf. When this happens they must be given a cold period.
L. concolor and its varieties - 12 to 35 days. Alkaline soil required for good performance but it will tolerate an acidic soil.
L. davidii and its varieties - 12 to 20 days.
L. duchartrei - 10 to 30 days - Yet to flower.
L. fargessii - 65 to 85 days with cold nights and warm days, without the temperature fluctuations they will not germinate (for me).
L. formosanum - 21 to 28 days. Yet to flower.
L. formosanum variety pricei - 18 to 25 days, flowers from seed within 9 months.
L. henryi - 60 to 75 days. Fresh seeds may germinate faster. 4 years to first flower.
L. lancifolium - 10 to 17 days.
L. lankongense - 15 to 35 days.
L. lophophorum - 12 to 30 days. Yet to flower.
L. mackliniae - 20 to 50 days. Yet to flower.
L. maculatum (Wilsonii) and variety flavum - 15 to 35 days. 3 years to first flower.
L. maculatum v. monticola - 25 to 35 days. 3 years to first flower.
L. maculatum variety davuricum - 40 to 90 days. Flowers in its second year.
L. majoense - 14 to 25 days. Yet to flower.
L. nanum and its variety flavidum - 15 to 20 days. I have trouble keeping these seedlings alive longer then the first two weeks. To date I have only managed to keep three seedlings alive long enough to plant them out and that is over four years of attempts. 4 years to first flower.
L. oxypetalum and its variety insigne - 10 to 25 days. Yet to flower.
L. papilliferum - 8 to 15 days. Yet to flower. These go dormant without sending up a true leaf. If they aren't given a cold period at that time, the bulblets will be lost.
L. philadelphicum - 12 to 25 days. It is best to freeze these seeds for at least two weeks prior to planting. L. philadelphicum has a way of holding back seed germination of some of its seeds until they have undergone a freeze/thaw cycle. Some will germinate without being frozen some will not, however all the viable seeds will germinate once frozen then thawed. Alkaline soil required, 4 years to first flower.
L. philippinense - 20 to 30 days. Flowers from seed within 10 months.
L. pumilum and strains - 9 to 14 days. The same year they are planted out they will flower, that is within 9 to 10 months from seed.
L. regale - 12 to 30 days, flowers in its third year.
L. rosthornii - 22 to 60 days. L. rosthornii seeds will germinate faster if exposed to light. However, during their first year the seeds that are not exposed to light once germinated will outgrow those that were germinated by being exposed to light. L. rosthornii seeds need more moisture then the average immediate epigeal seed to germinate well. Flowers in its second year.
L. sargentiae - 25 to 35 days. 2 years to first flower.
L. sulphureum - 8 to 20 days. Yet to flower.
L. taliense - 10 to 20 days. Alkaline soil required, yet to flower.
L. taliense variety (nick name only) kaichen 20 to 30 days. Alkaline soil required. Yet to flower.
L. wallichianum - 20 to 35 days. Alkaline soil required, yet to flower.
L. wardii - 20 to 30 days. Yet to flower

The following species seeds germinate as delayed epigeal, with some anomalies between the type and the varieties. These lilies are in my opinion the hardest ones to germinate.

L. leichtlinii - I have had little to no success with this lilies seeds. Having germinated only two seeds after 63 days then I lost the seedlings. I have tried some again this year (13 seeds) 11 of them germinated within 15 days as immediate epigeal so I doubt they will prove to be L. leichtlinii.

L. leichtlinii variety Maximowiczii - The majority of these varieties seeds germinate as immediate epigeal in 17 to 30 days. The few that don't germinate as immediate epigeal can be given a cold period of 3 months or so then planted out where they will germinate and sprout their cotyledon the following year. 2 years to first flower.

L. pyrenaicum - I have found that a few seeds will germinate within 60 days after being frozen for a couple of weeks, but the majority will not. After a three month incubation period at temperatures around 15C I give the seeds and germinated bulblets a three month period at +2C. Then plant them out, germinated or not. The ones that had germinated will sprout their cotyledon shortly after being planted out. The rest that are viable will sprout their cotyledon the following spring. Thus they germinate through the summer or early spring, it seems like this lily's seeds may require two cold periods before they will properly germinate and sprout their cotyledon. Alternatively after the 3 month cold period hold at +10C and they will germinate in about 40 days. Yet to flower.

The following species seeds germinate as immediate hypogeal and will sprout their first true leaf within the time frames given.

L. brownii - 60 to 90 days. Yet to flower.
L. bukozanense - 20 to 35 days. Yet to flower.
L. dauricum - 25 to 35 days. 2 years to first flower
L. dauricum variety alpinum - 12 to 25 days. 1 year to first flower.

The following species seeds are immediate hypogeal cool germination. They will sprout their first true leaf about 60 to 80 days after the seed has germinated and the bulblet is well formed. They should not be potted up until the true leaf has sprouted and a root system has at least started to develop. Sometimes the true leaf will grow and the root system has not, when this happens they have to be potted up or the seedling will be lost for sure. However when this happens you can also expect to lose the majority of the seedlings that have sprouted the true leaf without developing a root system prior to or at the same time the leaf sprouts.
The species with this type of germination which I have grown will germinate as follows. None of these species have grown in my gardens long enough to flower from seed.

L. columbianum - 30 to 60 days. About 50% of this lilies seeds may actually germinate as delayed hypogeal. If they have not sprouted a true leaf within 4 months of planting give them a cold period. In fact if after 4 months they aren't given a cold period the bulblets that aren't sprouting a true leaf will simply disappear.
L. humboldtii - 30 to 60 days.
L. kelloggii - 35 to 90 days.
L. pardalinum - 30 to 75 days.
L. parryi - 45 to 80 days.
L. parvum - 30 to 60 days. Same as L. columbianum.
L. pitkinense - 30 to 60 days.
L. rubescens - 40 to 80 days.
L. washingtonianum 40 to 75 days.

The following species lilies are delayed hypogeal germination. They will sprout their first true leaf only after a 3 month cold period. The true leaf will be put up within a three week period from the time the bulblet is planted out. It is well worth watching these seeds on a regular basis as some may germinate as immediate hypogeal and the very odd one as immediate epigeal. The species with this type of germination which I have grown will germinate as follows. The ones that have flowered for me from seed are marked the rest have yet to flower.

L. bulbiferum - 30 to 40 days. 3 years to first flower
L. bulbiferum variety croceum - 30 to 40 days with about 30 percent of the seeds from most seed lots germinating as immediate hypogeal. 3 years to first flower.
L. canadense and its varieties - 40 to 60 days. 6 years to first flower.
L. carniolicum v. jankae - 50 to 70 days. (may be delayed epigeal)
L. ciliatum - 40 to 60 days. (may be delayed epigeal)
L. hansonii - 25 to 35 days with the odd seed germinating as immediate hypogeal. 5 to 6 years to first flower.
L. japonicum and its varieties - 25 to 50 days.
L. ledebourii - 40 to 60 days.
L. martagon and its varieties - 14 to 30 days. Many L. martagon seed lots from the same pod will have seeds that will germinate as immediate hypogeal as well as delayed. They are well worth watching for as they out grow their siblings substantially. Martagons will even produce the odd seed that germinates as immediate epigeal. It prefers a slightly alkaline to neutral soil but will manage in a slightly acidic soil. 4 to 5 years to first flower.
L. michiganense - 40 to 60 days. 6 years to first flower.
L. monadelphum - 30 to 40 days. Some of these can be forced into immediate epigeal if they are potted up, with the cotyledon exposed to light, a couple weeks after germination. It is hardly worth it as the losses are high. These seedlings although delayed hypogeal have long cotyledons thus I had to try and force them into an epigeal growing pattern.
L. szovitsianum - 30 to 80 days.
L. tsingtauense - 25 to 35 days. 5 to 6 years to first flower.

Oriental hybrids will germinate as delayed hypogeal.

Most trumpet hybrids will germinate as immediate epigeal.

Most Asiatic hybrids will germinate as immediate epigeal.

There are a few exceptions with Asiatic hybrids that are not very far removed from L. bulbiferum or L. dauricum as a parent. These hybrids can germinate as immediate epigeal, immediate hypogeal or delayed hypogeal. I've had all three germination types from the same seed lot. Two examples of such lily hybrids are Mahogany and L. x Hollandicum.


clipped on: 03.14.2010 at 06:50 pm    last updated on: 03.14.2010 at 06:50 pm

RE: Does anybody grow Casablanca lily?? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: gardenerme on 02.19.2010 at 10:01 am in Perennials Forum

I have grown lots of orientals and find that the bulbs rot in everything but very fast draining rocky soil. However, I have been able to get around this by digging a large hole 3 inches deeper and wider than needed and lining with 3 inches of coarse gravel (pea gravel). Then you can water as much as you need to for your other plants and the bulbs will not rot. We don't have a lot of rain, but if you do, this should also solve your rainy problems with the bulb rotting issue. Works for all plants that need fast draining conditions, like rosemary and lavender.


avoiding bulb rot
clipped on: 03.13.2010 at 12:29 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2010 at 12:30 pm

RE: When to plant Tropicana canna indoors for the garden (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: leslie197 on 03.08.2007 at 03:42 pm in Bulbs Forum

I suppose it depends on your conditions (in the house) and how big a plant that you want to transplant. I usually don't start mine until about 3, possibly 4 weeks, before it can go outdoors. I wait until mid-april to early May, depending on when I get around to it. I don't transplant it outside until I am doing annuals at the end of May.

I think that you could probably put it out earlier than the end of May, but my yard it too mucky to work in much earlier than that. I think that canna can handle our May temps, just not my wet yard. I usually do 3 tall cannas and sometimes some shorter ones, so space is an issue in my patio doorway.

I don't use lights or anything for them, just plant them & sit them in the patio doorway which faces south. Depending on how busy I am with other things, the cannas are about 1 foot to at the most 2 ft tall when I put them outside.

The short ones (lately I have been buying these already growing) get planted directly into their pots and go right out onto the patio in the same pots. The tall ones go from the pot into the ground or into large whiskey barrels. They get much larger for me when planted in the ground.

I mostly use Rex Humbert, a dark-leaved one, which grows like gangbusters in my garden. Tropicana has been much less vigorous for me than good old Rex, whether in the ground or in a pot. I have a neighbor a few blocks away than grows some really great Tropicanas, but I sure haven't grown any big ones. In the ground Rex can get well over 6 ft tall, even in our short season. Tropicana is slightly more than 1/2 that size.


clipped on: 03.09.2010 at 07:35 pm    last updated on: 03.09.2010 at 07:35 pm

RE: What makes a 'true gardener'? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bev_w on 02.28.2010 at 04:46 pm in Gardening in Canada Forum

Some more fun ones. What makes a true gardener:

- you own six pairs of decrepit trousers that you ONLY wear for gardening. Three of them have patches on the knees. All of them never really get clean, no matter how many "hot-heavy" wash cycles they go through. You buy these at the second hand store, in the men's section (the women's ones wear out too fast).

- you have a lot of dark coloured t-shirts-- really big ones that, even if they shrink, are long enough to cover your backside when you're crouched / kneeling / bent over, positions that you're in most of the time

- every summer you go through two bottles of "deep cleaning" facial astringent and a whole lot of cotton pads. These are used to swab your neck, the garden's favourite depository for that tenacious and soap-immune combination of sweat, dirt, and bug repellent.

- in the garden center you roll your eyeballs at the pretty, girly-girl gardening gloves with pastel prints of ladybugs and butterflies. You know you'd wreck these in about an hour. You own four pairs of heavy duty work gloves that you bought at the lumber store. One pair is leather, one is "rubber dipped", two are heavy canvas. All are interchangeable, 'cause you can never find a matching pair.

- your husband got tired of steak knives disappearing from the kitchen. He bought you a set of six, on sale at Canadian Tire, for garden-use only. All six of them are now missing.

- In November you noticed a heavy object at the bottom of your "good" purse-- your bypass pruners. You weren't surprised, just glad that you'd finally found them.

- your mother-in-law knows you love gardening, and she constantly buys you weird ornament-things that she's sure you'll like. You stash these in the garage and, just before she visits (thankfully not too often), you rush around putting them out in the garden. You don't dare give them to the Sally Ann 'cause she has an elephant's memory and she'll surely wonder where are the pink and yellow tin iguanas, or the angel-fairy-butterfly stepping stones, or the set of four plastic pots decorated to look like soccer balls.

- Bev


clipped on: 03.07.2010 at 11:47 am    last updated on: 03.07.2010 at 11:47 am

RE: Underused perennials (Follow-Up #77)

posted by: nhbabs on 03.02.2010 at 10:46 pm in Perennials Forum

Heres the list so far in pretty much in the order of the thread. Several of them had notes in the original mention or in later posts about invasiveness. I did not check spellings, just cut and pasted.

Gillenia trifoliata - Bowman's Root.
Uvularia grandiflora - Merry Bells.
Dracocephalum rupestre - Dragonhead.
Mukdenia (AKA Aceriphyllum) rossii - Crimson Fans.
Allium (other than the 'Globemaster' types)
Baptisia australis (although hopefully that will change this year)
Knautia macedonica
Nepeta subsessilis
Rudbeckia maxima
Aucuba japonica, I think
Persicaria polymorpha
Veronica spicata 'Purpleicious'
Persicaria 'Crimson Beauty'
Persicaria 'Firetail'
Sanguisorba'Lemon Splash'
Mertensia virginica (Virginia Bluebells)
Dodecatheon meadia (Shooting Star) -
Anenome sylvestris (Snowdrop Anenome)
Dictamnus albus (Gas Plant) -
Centranthus ruber (Jupiter's Beard/Red Valerian)
Asarum canadense (Wild Ginger)
Iris cristata (Crested Iris)
Polemonium reptens (Jacob's Ladder)
Galium odoratum (Sweet woodruff)
Asplenium scolopendrium- Hearts Tongue Fern
Hyssopus officinalis
Scrophularia auriculata 'Variegata'- Water Figwort.
Salvia 'Wild Thing', 'Ultra Violet', Black Cherry'
Solidago Fireworks- Goldenrod
Althea cannabina
Zaluzianskya ovata (night phlox)
Aconitum napellus
Gaura lindheimia
Dierama pulcherimma
Adenophora triphylla
Thalictrum delavayii
Incarvillea arguta
Rehmannia alata
Sanguisorba menzii
Cimicifuga 'White Pearl'
Veronicastrum virginicum - Culver's Root
Angelica gigas
Limonium latifolium
Silene "Prairie Fire"
Knautia macedonica
Lathyrus vernus - spring vetchling
Zizia aptera - Golden Heart Alexander
Spigelia marilandica, Indian Pink or pinkroot
Geum triflorum (Prairie Smoke)
Arisaema triphyllum (Jack-in-the-Pulpit)
Stylophorum diphyllum (Celandine Poppy)
Gentiana andrewsii (Bottle Gentian)
Asclepias purpurascens (Purple Milkweed)
Asclepsias tuberosa (Butterfly Weed)
Rubus pentalobus
Paxistma canby
Acanthus mollis
Aruncus dioicus
Filipendula rubra
Sanguisorba obtusa( Japanese burnet)
Sanguisorba officinalis(greater burnet)
Sanguisorba tenuifolia
Filipendula purpurea
Filipendula alba
Filipendula elegantissima
Petasites varigated
Macleaya cordata, plume poppy
Thalictrum aquilegefolium, meadow rue.
Chelone obliqua, turtle head
Rheum palmatum, ornamental rhubarb
Uvularia grandiflora - merrybells
Thalictrum rochebrunianum
Lewisia cotyledon
Galax urceolata
Shortia galicifolia
Ranunculus aconitifolius 'Floro Pleno'
Ranunculus constantinopolitanus 'Plenus'
Morina longifolia
Anemonella thalictroides
Ranunculus ficaria
Phuopsis stylosa
Persicaria campanulata
Oenothera missouriensis
Penstemon hirsutus 'Pygmaeus'
Persicaria affinis 'Border Jewel'
Kirengashoma palmata
Malvaviscus drummondii (or M. arboreus) - Turk's cap mallow
Gilenia trifoliata (AKA Porteranthus)
Rabdosia longituba
Agastache 'Purple Haze'
Brunerra macrophylla
Hepatica rotundifolia & acutiloba
Disporum flavens - Korean fairybells
Athyrium felix-femina - Lady fern
Leucosceptrum japonicum


Some of these looked up and pasted to a plant swap wish list
clipped on: 03.06.2010 at 11:17 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2010 at 11:18 pm

unusual & under-used plants

posted by: christinmk on 01.11.2009 at 05:51 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

What plants do you grow that you think are not used enough by other gardeners? What makes it so special to you?
Is the plant not frequently used because it is:

A) rare/hard to find/expencive
B) so common no one cares any more
C) too unusual for most people

Asplenium scolopendrium- Hearts Tongue Fern. I don't think it is promoted enough. It looks like one of those Bird's Nest Ferns but is very hardy! I have only seen a few people in my zone growing them. They look tropical!

Ballota- Horehound. I bought three different kinds this spring. I hope they winter over well because they are AWESOME!
B. nigra 'Archer's Variety' has white/yellow leaves flecked with green. The flowers are a pale purple.
It is hard to describe what Ballota pseudodictamnus and acetabulosa look alike. They have silver-green foliage that is soft and fuzzy. The little flowers are purple. I will provide a link so you can see them.

Chyptotaenia japonica 'Atropurpurea'- Purple Leaf Japanese Ornamental Parsley. I have never seen anyone else grow this plant, so maybe it isn't very common. This is a neat foliage plant for part shade! Dark purple/black foliage.

Gillenia trifoliata- Bowman's Root. Native plant with lacy foliage dainty white flowers. I think many people have forgotten this plant. I hope that since natives are making a come-back it will be a favorite again.

Helianthemum- Sun Rose. I have not seen ONE person growing this plant besides myself. I think it has just fallen out of favor with many. I love it! Some say it is short lived, but mine have been growing for over five years. It is a short plant that forms a shrubby mat low to the gound. The flowers come in single and double form. This plant thrives in the most difficult of situations!

Hyssopus- Hyssop. This is an herb that can be made for teas. It smells like a skunk to me, but I adore it. I have a beautiful dark blue colored one and bought a pink in the summer. It re-seeds very well. The foliage is a wonderfully dark green. The plant stands under a foot tall.

Linaria- Toadflax. Beautiful plant no Cottage Garden should be without! It has tiny snapdragon like flowers that form long spikes. The foliage is blue-green. I have the cultivar 'Cannon J. Went' and it has light pink flowers.

Nepeta subsessilis- Catmint. I know quite a few people grow this, but not enough. It blooms for MONTHS with just minimal dead-heading. Stunning blue flowers.

Scrophularia auriculata- Water Figwort. Sold for areas by ponds and bogs. Mine does fine as long as the soil is moist. One of my favorite plants! The leaves are variegated and the flowers are a tiny and maroon colored. Love it!

I have pics for several of these, but I think I have shown them here several times allready.

Thats it for me. What about you?

Here is a link that might be useful: Ballota pseudodictamnus


clipped on: 03.06.2010 at 09:15 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2010 at 09:15 pm

RE: Underused perennials (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: laceyvail on 02.02.2010 at 06:27 am in Perennials Forum

Your Persicaria polymorpha looks very small compared to mine. Mine grows at least 6 ft tall and some 12 feet wide--enormous. Another Persicaria that is a clumper and is absolutely spectacular and very unknown is P. 'Crimson Beauty'. Gets some 12 feet tall with ivory flowers in September that very quickly turn cherry red--yes, cherry red, not pink. The show lasts for about 3 weeks and looks gorgeous with Miscanthus grasses, Sedum 'Autumn Joy' and Perovskia. There's a point when the 'Autumn Joy' and the Persicaria are the same color. And when the whole thing is backlit by the afternoon sun...well...


clipped on: 03.06.2010 at 09:02 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2010 at 09:02 pm

RE: Begonia Nonstop Fire Seeds (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sleepy33 on 01.10.2010 at 11:23 am in Begonia Forum

Well, if you have success with your seeds this year, you should be able to save the tubers they produce for next year, right? And seeds are so much cheaper than tubers, at least from what I've seen. I ordered my seed from Geo Seed; they have really great prices. $3.30 for 100 seeds of all the Nonstop colors. We'll see if they germinate well or not. So far, Geo Seeds has had better prices and higher quantity of seed than the competition on every variety I've checked. Hopefully your seeds arrive soon!


begonia seeds
clipped on: 03.04.2010 at 08:32 pm    last updated on: 03.04.2010 at 08:32 pm

terra nova co op

posted by: cody_mi on 01.30.2010 at 04:57 pm in Perennials Forum

i don't know if this is allowed or not, i suppose it'll be removed and i'll be notified if it's not. anyway...

i just started a yahoo group to purchase some wholesale plugs from terra nova and a few other places. we have a minimum to meet and i thought i'd stop by here and invite anyone interested to join and at least take a look around. i'll answer questions etc from the group instead of doing anything here.

hopefully this isn't considered spamming, as it's not meant to be. if you're interested please send me an email to and i'll give you more information.


clipped on: 03.01.2010 at 01:59 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2010 at 09:02 pm

Are 'Garden Tours' worth the time and cost?

posted by: carl18 on 03.01.2010 at 04:45 pm in Perennials Forum

This is a copy of a thread that I posted recently on another (regional) forum,
and quickly realized that I should have posted it here to reach the wider
gardening community:

In a current post on this forum, there was some discussion about the relative
cost/value benefit of a particular tour of Beacon Hill gardens. Never having
been on this particular tour, I can't offer an opinion on it; but I did think it might be interesting to hear people's thoughts on garden tours in general.
Over the years, I've been lucky enough to visit/tour virtually hundreds of gardens, and don't really consider a single one of them a waste of time (maybe money, though!). . .like any other art form - and, yes, I think putting together a diverse collection of plant material is artful - the more you actually SEE in that art form, be it dance, music, theatre, sculpture, painting, gardens, you name it, the better able you are, as an an individual, to appreciate and distinguish between the good, mediocre, bad and ugly. And as the old adage
says: "Imitation is the highest form of flattery." I cannot begin to confess to
the number of design ideas and color/form combinations that I have happily
"borrowed" from other gardens - if a couple of the NE gardeners whose gardens I have visited where to stop by here this summer, why they'd surely
recognize certain familiar elements in THIS garden ! In short, touring other
people's gardens is one of my great passions - not only do you get to see some totally terrific stuff, but I invariably meet some delightful people. It's
just a win-win situation. . .and it sure beats trolling the mall. . .

Soapbox Time: on the slimmest chance that someone out there (perhaps a
newbie) doesn't know about them, let me briefly introduce you to the easy
answer to successful garden touring in America - The Garden Conservancy,
and more specifically, their splendid Open Days Program. This is modeled on
the original English program, whereby the Conservancy publishes a directory
each Spring, listing all the gardens that will be open across the country that
year, with specific days and hours for each, brief descriptions, and complete
instructions for finding each garden. There is a flat fee of $5.00 charged as
you enter each garden; Garden Conservancy members are eligible to buy
books of tickets which works out to a mere $2.50 per garden visit - BUT, and
this is important to know, you DO NOT have to be a Conservancy member to
attend any of these Open Days. Nor do you have to be a member to buy the
annual directory - it's available to anyone for $21.95 - or, for no money at
all, you could log on to their website all the time and get the current listings.
A membership, of course, gets you a FREE directory, plus the added bonus of
being able to visit Garden Conservancy Preservation Projects - the stabilization and maintenance-in-perpetuity of significant/historic American
gardens, of which there are currently 14, two of them in New England!
For me, having that directory literally allows me to block out my traveling
schedule the six months of their Open Days Program; all my other activities get arranged around the garden tours - have you figured out yet that I'm fanatic about this? :o)

On the same subject, I've scanned the list of forums available here on GW and I don't think I see one that specifically lists Garden Tours. Is this something that would be of interest to any other gardeners: a comprehensive
listing of garden tours, big and small, national and specifically local, that all
of us could post to with new listings which would include dates, cost, hours
of opening, and travel information?



clipped on: 03.01.2010 at 08:50 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2010 at 08:50 pm

A few more new garden beginnings...

posted by: david_5311 on 02.08.2007 at 06:06 pm in Perennials Forum

Well, I decided I should not encumber the other threads with these pics, so for those who are interested they are here, and those who aren't can conveniently ignore them.

The gravel garden path (planted on mainly sand with about 1/4 compost by volume mixed in.....)


July (love that Digitalis ferruginea....)

The pastel bed

The pergola/terrace beds

I'll have a few more on this one when I move pics from one computer to another....


clipped on: 03.01.2010 at 02:20 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2010 at 02:21 pm

RE: more pics (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: david_5311 on 02.08.2007 at 07:41 pm in Perennials Forum

Gravel garden detail

Better view of D. ferruginea

pergola detail

woodland stream (the wild part of the garden -- most of it)


design ideas
clipped on: 03.01.2010 at 02:01 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2010 at 02:01 pm

RE: Does anybody grow Casablanca lily?? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: prairiemoon2 on 02.25.2010 at 03:41 pm in Perennials Forum

I have grown Casa Blanca lilies for the past 7 years. I just love them. They smell great! and I like the texture of the petals. I was discouraged enough in 2007 to yank out my Casa Blanca lily bulbs. The Red Lily Beetle was making such a mess of the foliage, I couldn't stand to look at them. But to my surprise, they came back in 2008. I guess I thought I had gotten them all out, but I forgot they make more bulbs. So since they didn't want to leave [g], I decided to make a more concerted effort to keep the beetle under control. I had let them go in the previous two years. Last year, they weren't bad at all and I tried a new technique. In the past they had defeated me because when I tried to pick them off, they move faster than me and they would drop on the ground upside down and the underside is brown and you can't see them. I am organic and wouldn't spray for them. Last year, I used a 5 gallon bucket with water in the bottom and I would hold it under where they were and just flick them into the water, then I would dispose of them. It worked great! You can see in this photo that the foliage looks very good. So, now I'm not as concerned with the beetle as I was.

Image and video hosting by TinyPic


beetle tips
clipped on: 03.01.2010 at 01:38 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2010 at 01:39 pm

Need idea Valentines day dessert

posted by: linnea56 on 02.13.2010 at 01:57 pm in Cooking Forum

I was going to make a cheesecake for Valentines Day but now Im changing my mind. I really should not make anything so fattyfor either of us. Im just barely recovering from Christmas candy. No kids on hand to help us polish it off.which I always counted on in prior years. So there's just the two of us.

Soideas? I bought the cream cheese already but dont have to use it. I was thinking along the lines of a tart, a cookie crust with a thin layer of something creamy and topped with strawberries.

Recipe? Alternate ideas? I like chocolate but DH is indifferent to it: he likes fruit more. Nuts? He also loves nuts. All kinds. Thanks!


clipped on: 02.14.2010 at 01:57 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2010 at 01:57 pm

RE: New eBay find leads to new window treatments! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: my3dogs on 02.13.2010 at 10:16 am in Home Decorating Forum

Thank-you, ladies,

I love mixing patterns so much that I don't even look for solid fabric. I wouldn't find it as inspiring to work with.
NOT that there is anything wrong with solid fabrics at all; they just aren't me. In other's homes, they are beautiful.

ajsmama, We don't have Job Lots anywhere is this state. I'd never heard of them til I saw them mentioned on this board.

Yes, this treatment is very easy, and YOU CAN DO THEM. My only issue was the weight of my fabric, and I broke one needle, but put in a heavier one and I was all set. Careful measuring is key.

I looked for instructions online, and found them at the link below. They are from the UK, but give most of the measurements in inches as well as metric. The spacing is determined by the width of the panels you are making. I used 7" spacing for my finished 51" wide panels, although that is a bit closer that the 8" - 12" recommended in the instructions.

Here is a link that might be useful: back tab or hidden tab instructions


Link is instructions for hidden tab top curtains: looks like pinch pleats but uses decorative rod
clipped on: 02.13.2010 at 01:27 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2010 at 01:28 pm

RE: Is the Color of Baptisia Australis Actually Blue? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: remy on 01.25.2010 at 08:12 pm in Perennials Forum

Here's my list of flowers that have true blue blooms

Virginia Bluebells
Salvia patens species and cultivars
Veronica 'Crater Lake Blue'
Morning Glories
Salvia azurea
Forget-me-nots annual and biennnial kinds
Arctotis grandis (blue-eyed daisy)
Iris reticulata
Brimeura amethystina(alpine hyacinth)
Allium azurea aka Allium caeruleum

Hope that helps some,


clipped on: 02.07.2010 at 03:04 pm    last updated on: 02.07.2010 at 03:05 pm

RE: If marooned on a deserted island.... (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: donnabaskets on 12.08.2009 at 02:52 pm in Perennials Forum

Boy, have I got a Shade book for you! Try to get your hands on "The Complete Shade Gardener" by George Schenk. It is terrific. It's a well written, clear cut primer on shade garden design, maintenance, and pruning, and has a very good list of shade garden plants with good info on each. It's definitely one of my favorite garden reads ever. It's published by Timber Press.


Shade geredning
clipped on: 12.11.2009 at 11:45 pm    last updated on: 12.11.2009 at 11:45 pm

RE: Mums turned from white to rose (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: ken_adrian on 12.03.2009 at 09:07 am in Perennials Forum

you should have pinched again on 8/4 .... then you wouldnt have needed the cage ...

blooming is triggered by day length .... and they will have plenty of time to rebud .... for bloom in october ....

but i wouldnt go pinching in sept ...

have you even had any leafy veggie in the crisper turn color???? why not your mums outside ... or perhaps you didnt find it in the crisper, until it was a gelatinous pile of goo .. lol ...



When to pinch mums
clipped on: 12.04.2009 at 01:25 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2009 at 01:25 pm

RE: is it time to bring put patio clematis in garage? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: mxk3 on 12.04.2009 at 12:44 pm in Perennials Forum

Re: Breaking dormancy in a garage: I handle the watering issue by piling snow on top of the pots come about January or so. When temps warm and spring thaw begins, the snow slowly melts into the thawing soil in the pots, watering them gently. Easy, and works beautifully, no worries about dried-out or over-watered pots.


Put snow on the stored pots in the garage to gently water plants when it melts.
clipped on: 12.04.2009 at 01:11 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2009 at 01:12 pm

RE: anyone had success growing calla lilies from their own seed? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: newine on 10.01.2008 at 11:45 am in Far North Gardening Forum

I have grown callas from seeds for a few years now and it is really easy.Take the seeds heads in when they start to yellow and set them somewhere to dry out... a shelf, a windowsill. wherever.Then sometime in the beginning of February, I take the dried out seed head and clean up the seeds as best I can.I soak them for 2 days and then rub of any remaining husks. Plant them at about their own depth in seed starter mix and wait for the results.I have found that I get pretty much 100% germination.I plant the resulting cormlets in with my full sized callas so that I don't lose track of them. I have had some bloom the second year for me, but normally it takes three years. I started out with several handfulls of donated corms and now have enough to fill 3 big cast iron syrup kettles and copper washing machine bases.Next year I will have enough to fill a 4th planter.


clipped on: 12.02.2009 at 08:56 pm    last updated on: 12.02.2009 at 08:56 pm

RE: Repairing veneer surface on 1930's bdrm set? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: kmealy on 04.03.2007 at 06:14 pm in Woodworking Forum

What you are describing and brickeyee refers to is usually called "reamalgamation." It can be successful. In addition to the solvents mentioned, you can use an ATM stripper (Formby's comes to mind) See here But read the below article to see if you can get by without even doing that much.

Re-veneering is possible but likely you will find new veneers thinner than old veneers.

Here is a link that might be useful: Saving the finish


Repairing old finishes
clipped on: 11.11.2007 at 12:17 am    last updated on: 11.11.2007 at 12:17 am

RE: Gel Stain question (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bobsmyuncle on 11.06.2007 at 10:57 pm in Woodworking Forum

Scuff sanding a LIGHT hand sanding. Like all finish procedures, a sample to test procedures and products before committing to your final project is always in order.

You should read Bob Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishes" (2nd edition) comments on glazing.


gels over existing finsihes
clipped on: 11.10.2007 at 11:57 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2007 at 11:57 pm