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RE: granite fabrication questions..what do you think! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: azstoneconsulting on 03.22.2010 at 04:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

Rods are NOT ANYWHERE NEAR the equivalent of counterbalance plates when
it comes to supporting an overhang ... the counterbalance plates are DEFINITELY
the way to go!!!!!!

Counterbalance plates are 3/8" thick and come in two lengths - 9 3/4"
and 11 3/4". Both lengths are 3 3/4" wide.

i wrote an article in this subject for Stone Business Magazine - a re-print of
it is available for free by going to Natural Stone

remember that rods are usually much smaller dimensionally - in 3CM - most guys
(me included) use Stainless Steel that is 1/2" tall by 1/4" thick. the rods in this
style of application are set into the stone so the 1/2" dimension is up on it's edge...

here is a quick tutorial on "RODDING"......

The use of "rodding" has been embraced by many Fabricators to gain
an increased measure of strength in a piece of stone - similar to the way the
re-bar is imbedded in concrete in highway construction. The rods are used
around areas that are prone to breakage - such as undermount sink openings,
and cook top cutouts. Rodding is primarily done in order to get a piece of
stone FROM the Fabrication Shop - TO the jobsite where it will be installed.
Once the piece is installed - the rod will stay there and act as a re-enforcement,
and help to prevent breakage of already weak-end assembly.

As far using the rods in lieu of corbels or counterbalance plates - I would
NOT advise it, as the counterbalance plates are much better suited
to support an overhang assembly.... That's how I would do it - I'd
use the counterbalance plates for the overhang and rod everything else....

Anyways - Rods are inserted into the back side of the stone running along
the long axis of the piece.

FYI - The examples shown here are for a 3CM thick stone application - IF you are doing 2CM
thick stone, the "norm" for rodding stock is 1/4" round stainless steel...

First - the 1/4" x 1/2" steel is ready to be "set" into the slot that's been cut just
a little more than 1/4" wide

like so........


"Flowing" Epoxy is mixed up and poured into the slot after it has been cleaned out and
dried ...

like this....


The rodding steel is set down into the slot so that the 1/2" dimension will be up
on it's edge - making the assembly more rigid..


The steel rod is then pushed down into the wet epoxy so that the glue encapsulates the


Excess glue is scraped off the back side of the stone so that when it dries,
very little will have to be ground off to render the back side of the countertop
really smooth...


thus endeth the lesson!!! HA!




clipped on: 03.22.2010 at 04:29 pm    last updated on: 03.22.2010 at 04:30 pm