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RE: Zinnia: Saved vs. commercial seed (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: terrene on 09.12.2009 at 02:22 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

I like the tall colorful types of Zinnias, like Cut & Come Again, California Giants, and State Fair. This year I'm growing State Fair and they are beautiful. Does anyone know if these are generally open-pollinated and come true to seed?

I am not a big fan of the poofy pom-pom type Zinnias, and prefer the singles and semi-doubles. This is because it makes the nectar tubes readily available to pollinators. The bees, hummers, and butterflies love them.

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clipped on: 01.14.2011 at 12:42 pm    last updated on: 01.14.2011 at 12:42 pm

Source for cast stone fountains?

posted by: elljays on 01.22.2007 at 11:39 am in Garden Accoutrements Forum

We are hoping to get a cast stone fountain for our garden this spring. I haven't seen any...only the fiberglass ones. Any great resources that you've found for fountains/statuary that you'd like to share?

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clipped on: 12.20.2009 at 07:09 pm    last updated on: 12.20.2009 at 07:09 pm

Looking for shippers of Salvia Plants US & Canada

posted by: hybridsage on 12.08.2009 at 12:36 am in Salvia Forum

I know of a few:A World of Salvias,Digging Dog Nursery,
Annies Annuals & Perennials,High Country Gardens, Plant Delights Nursery,Logee's,Bluestone Perennials,Pioneer Nureries and Lazy S Farm and seedhunt(For seed). Anyone I am missing?
Art

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clipped on: 12.08.2009 at 08:53 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2009 at 08:53 pm

RE: Looking for shippers of Salvia Plants US & Canada (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: hummersteve on 12.08.2009 at 01:09 am in Salvia Forum

Art

Yes Im familiar with all you mentioned, but there is one you didnt mention and maybe you forgot since its much nearer you than me. I happened onto this place and offered it to my friends at network54 and they were all gaga over it. Its Bustani plant farm in stillwater OK. I sent them so much business that first year they gave me a courtesy order. Steve Owens owner said just tell him what I wanted and he would send it and he did. Anyway everyone loves the size and health and packing of their orders and they continue ordering from them. I still get thanks from people on the forum for finding Bustani.

Steve

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clipped on: 12.08.2009 at 08:52 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2009 at 08:53 pm

Harvested Clematis seeds

posted by: ontheteam on 12.02.2009 at 02:54 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Now what...
They are from a Nelly Moser.
I read they can take along time to germinate. Are they a good WS candidate?

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clipped on: 12.03.2009 at 01:27 pm    last updated on: 12.03.2009 at 01:27 pm

globe amaranth

posted by: proudgm_03 on 11.19.2008 at 06:41 am in Seed Saving Forum

Where is the seed on this flower? I recently traded for some and they sent the little "petals". Is the seed inside of these? Thanks!

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clipped on: 11.22.2009 at 10:41 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2009 at 10:41 pm

RE: Daylilies on a Budget (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: najoba on 10.21.2008 at 11:22 pm in Daylily Forum

New Every Morning -- really nice people to do business with. I had a very positive experience buying from them. I'm glad you added them, Jan.

Nancy

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clipped on: 10.22.2008 at 11:30 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2008 at 11:31 pm

RE: Concrete item pics. (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: elephantear on 03.07.2007 at 09:26 pm in Hypertufa Forum

Hi, sydneydavis
First if you have never made leaves before it maybe better to start with a few smaller size ones.
For me it seems a little overwhelming at first-working with such a big leaf, so I'll just go with my experience.
First make sure you are in a draft-free place with no sun. Have a large pile of damp sand for the mound to lay your leaf on, keeping in mind how deep and wide you want the birdbath to be. Cover this mound with plastic wrap, put the leaf on the mound to see if this is wide and deep enough, don't get it to deep, small birds like shallow water. Next place your leaf with vein side up, facing you. Mix up your mix, I used 1 part portland to 3 parts sand, mix throughly, (remove any hard lumps) Add cold water gradually, your mix need to be like a thick Brownie batter place a large scoop or handfuls on the top of leaf, pat down to remove air bubbles and to cover the top, then proceed almost to the leaf edges, the cement need to be thicker at the middle of the leaf over the center deep stem/vein. Don't let the cement go beyond the edges of the leaf. I later found out from the experts here its best to stop about 1/4" before reaching the bottom to have nice even edges.
When finished completely cover with plastic wrap and walk away. VIP: Don't try turning large leaves over for 48hrs. Use both hands or have someone help when turning, these are still green and still very fragile at this point.
Now you can remove the old leaf, sometimes this can be very time consuming, especially if you are anxious to paint.
Keep water misted for about 7 days, during this time never let dry-out. Keep tightly covered with plastic wrap. If you have a large container you can put the finished leaf in a cold water bath, completely covering with water. Try to change the water daily to remove the lime-that create that nasty whitish look on your new BB. Rinse throughly when finished.
Let sit a couple of days or so then paint and seal.
Always use a mask while mixing the dry ingredients and always where gloves. Above all have fun! Possible other readers here can give you some ideas also. Wendy

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clipped on: 09.27.2008 at 10:52 pm    last updated on: 09.27.2008 at 10:52 pm

Pictures of a combination birdfeeder/birdbath

posted by: fleur on 10.15.2006 at 09:07 pm in Hypertufa Forum

I've always wanted to try to put two leaves in one cast. I've also wanted to try some experiments so I combined all three in my latest project. Besides doing one leaf elevated above another, I wanted to experiment with putting down slurry on the leaf first to cut down on the bugholes and wondered what would happen if I put in one part Quikwall to my 1:cement, 2 1/2: sand mix. So far the first two parts of the project seem to have worked. Small leaf on support attached to larger leaf worked. Surface of leaves have no bugholes to speak of. After iit is cured, I plan to leave the cast outside all winter to see what, if any, the quikwall added to the effort.

It still needs have the edges cleaned up but if you'd like to see the almost-finished leaves, check out the link below. The link has a tutorial containing most of the steps I took in making the combination leaf.

Here is a link that might be useful: Birdfeeder/birdbath

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clipped on: 08.10.2008 at 10:32 pm    last updated on: 08.10.2008 at 10:33 pm

April 5th Update (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: najoba on 04.05.2008 at 10:22 am in Daylily Forum

On March 28 and 31, I began soaking a total of 47 seeds purchased from the Lily Auction, from the following crosses:

Ultimate Fantasy x Jelly Maker
Vatican City x Feliz Navidad
Cindy Jones x Princess Diana
Eskimo Kisses x Hello Screamer
Ageless Beauty x Blue Hippo
Edge of Your Seat x Carol Todd

Each set of seeds arrived in a small clear plastic ziplock bag, with their I.D.'s clearly marked by the vendors with waterproof ink.

Upon arrival, the bags were filled to almost the top with the above-mentioned solution (1/2 gallon water + 6 tablespoons hydrogen peroxide). The seeds are checked daily. The solution is changed daily, and the soaking seeds are kept in a dark closet until they sprout.

At no time did any of the sprouting roots have the slightest tinge of brown on them. They were all white. I have lost no seeds to mold among this group.

44 out of the 47 seeds sprouted roots in an average time of 2 days. I still have 3 seeds soaking.

Inspected early every morning, the sprouted seeds are immediately planted in 20-oz. foam cups filled with pre-soaked Miracle-Gro Seed Starter. I cover them over with fine-ground vermiculite and mist them well with plain water. I write details on each cup with a Sharpie (waterproof). These cups, with holes punched in the bottoms, are then placed inside either Dixie plastic drinking cups or tin cans filled with water. These individual outer containers not only provide constant moisture, but also stability to the tippy foam cups.

I mist these potted seeds twice a day, and keep the cups loosely covered with plastic sandwich bags until the seeds show signs of green growth. I then remove the bags and place them in a north window for a few days. I stop misting them once they have sprouted.

I have not lost any seedlings to damp-off.

Weather permitting, after a few days of growth, I take them out of their external containers of water. I move the growing plants in their foam cups outside to our shaded porch. I place the cups together in an aluminum foil roasting pan filled with water, placed in partial sunlight.

When they began to show second leaves, I add 1/4 teaspoon of Schultz's Expert Plant Food per gallon of water, and replace the water with this solution. I make up fresh solution about every three days, once the water begins to look murky.

As of today, I have 13 seedlings from this new group of seeds that are growing, all within 8 days of beginning the latest project.

The earlier seeds discussed at the beginning of this thread are just about ready to be transplanted to outdoor beds.

I am most appreciative of the daylily hybridizers and GW folks who have contributed their knowledge and suggestions to enable me to successfully get daylilies from blossom ---> cross-pollination ---> seed pod ---> seeds ---> sprouts ---> seedlings ---> maturing plants.

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clipped on: 04.06.2008 at 07:58 pm    last updated on: 04.06.2008 at 07:58 pm

RE: Sowing by the moon? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: sewobsessed on 02.25.2008 at 02:11 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

What a coincidence!
I just found this calendar a few days ago and was contemplating giving it a try.
The oldtimers swear by it and I can tell what faze the moon is at when the field across the road gets planted.

Here is a link that might be useful: Moon Planting Guide from the Old Farmer's Almanac

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clipped on: 03.10.2008 at 09:59 pm    last updated on: 03.10.2008 at 09:59 pm

RE: Regional Hybridizers (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: laurelin on 02.23.2008 at 10:01 am in Daylily Forum

Hi Newyorkrita,

Here's another hybridizer - he has some lovely intros, although I haven't bought any (yet!). I'm going to try to visit his garden this summer, God willing:

Don Herr Daylilies
Don and Trish Herr
Lancaster, PA
www.donherrdaylilies.com

I also bought plants from Bloomingfields Farms last year, after admiring their plants for a couple years - they sell organic plants, northern hardy, many of their own hybrids as well as some cool heirlooms. Smaller fans, but vigorous.

Bloomingfields Farms
Lee Bristol
Gaylordsville, VT
www.bloomingfieldsfarm.com

Laurel

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clipped on: 02.23.2008 at 07:47 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2008 at 07:47 pm

RE: books on living as a homesteader (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: honeysuckle_rose on 09.29.2002 at 06:40 pm in Homesteading Forum

Thank you to all for your help. This should make winter go by a bit faster, or at least make it a bit more tolerable.
lol
rosemary

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clipped on: 12.18.2007 at 09:25 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2007 at 09:25 pm

RE: Favorite nurseries and garden centers, what are yours??? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: tangerine_z6 on 04.22.2005 at 10:00 am in New England Gardening Forum

Sylvan Nursery
1028 Horseneck Road
Westport, MA

Gigantic. Herbs to trees and every possible shrub, perennial, etc. in between.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sylvan Nursery

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clipped on: 11.09.2007 at 11:02 pm    last updated on: 11.09.2007 at 11:02 pm

RE: WANTED: Wild Rudbeckia (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: olelady on 10.29.2007 at 12:50 am in Seed Exchange Forum

I have Rubeckia "Hortensia". Beautiful full petaled flower, looks like a mum, gets about 5' tall, if you are interested in this rubeckia. What do you have for trade, I am interested in salvias/sages, especially looking for pineapple sage, also would like to find some pink plume celosia.

Olelady/Barbara

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clipped on: 10.29.2007 at 01:33 am    last updated on: 10.29.2007 at 01:34 am

Zinnas -- Powdery Mildew

posted by: lindabel on 10.08.2007 at 03:11 pm in Annuals Forum

Once again the leaves of my zinnias are completely infested with powdery mildew, and has now spread to the cosmos. After reading a couple message threads here i have discovered that PM is unique to its host. Also that zinna PM can be kept in check by hosing the spores off the leaves. The PM has spread to the zinnia flowers now. I have been spraying weekly with a fungicide for PM, but it doesnt seem to be slowing it down.

I have two questions. Can the PM infect the seeds in the flowers? Does it overwinter in the soil (I'm in Mass.)?

Should i be treating the seeds with a fungicide powder (like you do with dahlias?) and should I also be treating the soil to help prevent it next summer.

We had an exceptionally dry, hot summer this year and today is our first rain since August. I would think the PM would need wet conditions to spread this rapidly.

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clipped on: 10.08.2007 at 11:04 pm    last updated on: 10.08.2007 at 11:04 pm

HAVE: Zinnias&Marigolds&4 O'clocks

posted by: letha1971 on 09.26.2007 at 08:07 pm in Seed Exchange Forum

I have Zinnia-Giant Violet Queen,Zinna-Oklahoma mix,Marigold-orange,Four o'clock-fuchsia. I am interested in perennials & annuals for "cottage type" garden.

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clipped on: 10.01.2007 at 08:23 pm    last updated on: 10.01.2007 at 08:23 pm

RE: Rust prevention (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: zeedman on 04.10.2007 at 01:03 am in Beans, Peas & Other Legumes Forum

Julieann, I am surprised at that list of varieties... in my experience, "Fortex" and some Romano-type beans are very rust-resistant. In fact, in a very wet year, only 2 out of 9 beans were not infected... "Fortex" and an heirloom Romano, "Garafal Oro". Asparagus beans (I assume you mean yardlongs, not winged beans which also share that name) have also never been rust infected for me. Is it possible for you to post a photo?

I can only make recommendations as to preventive measures; my attempts at organic rust control (once infected) have been less than effective.

Rust is airborne, so your beans can get it even on new ground. However, it is also soil-borne in areas where infected beans were previously grown; the use of a straw mulch to prevent rain splash can be helpful. Apply it after the beans have their first true leaf - too early, and it can shelter insects that will kill the tender seedlings. Beans really dislike mud on their leaves, once I apply the mulch I spray the leaves clean, and they literally turn green overnight.

Moist leaves & over-crowding promote the spread of rust, so if you live in a problem area, you need to encourage greater air flow to keep the leaves dry. I grow an heirloom pole shell bean that is very rust-susceptible (I love it anyway) so I give it wider spacing, 12" between plants. If there is a sustained period of cool wet weather, rust will still be a problem... but not as severely, and with minimal impact on yield.

Incidentally, I experimented with several spacings for both "Fortex" and asparagus beans (a.k.a. yardlongs). For "Fortex", 6" spacing (or 2 @ 12") was optimal. For yardlongs, I use 12-15". This may seem like wide spacing... but the plants branch to compensate, and are more vigorous.

You may have heard that you should avoid touching bean plants when wet... if the plants have rust (or any other disease), or if you want to avoid worsening the problem, that is good advice. Even when plants are dry, harvest the most heavily-infected plants last.

Avoid the use of overhead irrigation on beans, especially just before nightfall - don't put them to bed wet.

Now, I know that this last piece of advice ranks high on the "GW most hated" list... but you might want to check with your state's Cooperative Extension. They could help you to verify that rust is the problem, and might be able to recommend disease resistant bean cultivars for your area.

I will leave you with a link. Asian soybean rust has become a problem in the Southeast, and can infect many bean species. Since two different species are infected in your garden, if you live in that area, it could be a possibility.

Here is a link that might be useful: Asian soybean rust

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clipped on: 08.27.2007 at 08:47 pm    last updated on: 08.27.2007 at 08:47 pm

wanted: updated trade list.....some are sase

posted by: michiganalice on 08.19.2007 at 08:10 pm in Seed Exchange Forum

Hi Everyone,

I updated my list but I still have so many more fall seeds to collect.

I'm looking for 4:00's, Morning Glories and others on my wish list.

Mabye we can trade, thanks for looking

Here is a link that might be useful: My Trade List

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clipped on: 08.19.2007 at 09:35 pm    last updated on: 08.19.2007 at 09:36 pm

RE: Jugs-An Evolutionary Miracle...... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: donn_ on 03.05.2007 at 05:52 am in Winter Sowing Forum

Don't forget the world-reknowned "Pot-Jug."

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Cut the bottom off a 1-gallon jug.

Fill a nursery pot with meduim, and press the cut-off jug into the soil to mark the surface of the medium.

Sow the seeds inside the lines of the mark.

Push the top of the jug an inch into the medium and anchor with a length of clothes hanger wire.

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clipped on: 03.06.2007 at 10:58 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2007 at 10:59 pm