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Subway tile on Shower Walls but on Shower Floor?

posted by: grdnchik on 11.16.2006 at 09:28 am in Bathrooms Forum

I'm not sure what to do with my shower floor? I'm set on using subway tiles on my shower walls but I'm simply unsure on what pattern or desing to use on my shower floor. I thought about use hex to break it up a bit but I know I want to use hex on the bathroom floors. So, it might be to much? Or should I, just use subway tile inside of the shower floor? Any ideas or visuals would be awesome.

I love this bathroom, and I would like ours to look like it.


clipped on: 11.17.2006 at 12:38 am    last updated on: 11.17.2006 at 12:38 am

RE: tantrum tile backsplash (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: meg711 on 11.15.2006 at 06:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

We're doing white subway tiles with 2x2 amber glass tiles as accents. They're by Daltile and I fell in love with them because of the layers and bubbles. Individually they're $7 each.

Mary228, I'm so glad you're on the board because I would like to thank you. The other night I had to come up with some pattern for my accent tiles and your photos provided just the right inspiration.

Here's a photo of my paper mock up (range top part not up), and then a photo of one section with the actual tiles. I'm hoping that you'll be able to see both the bubbles and the nice amber shade once the undercabinet lights are up.

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clipped on: 11.15.2006 at 11:44 pm    last updated on: 11.15.2006 at 11:44 pm

RE: tantrum tile backsplash (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: wasabi3 on 11.14.2006 at 02:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

We really love this tile. We used the 1x1 Juniper blend mesh and liner as a mosaic behind the range, and 2x2 inserts in our field of travertine tile.

Here's a pic behind the range:

The tiles are sealed, and with over two years in use, splatters and such wipe right off.


clipped on: 11.14.2006 at 05:28 pm    last updated on: 11.15.2006 at 09:58 am

Pictures of my almost finished kitchen!

posted by: charlie123 on 11.13.2006 at 01:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm attempting to post a few pictures of my kitchen which is almost finished. They are working on the recessed lighting as we speak and have to put up some more molding and refrigerator appliance panels but it's so great to have it almost done. It's been 6 months since demo started and our remodel included a 180 foot addition to expand the kitchen, new hardwood floors throughout the downstairs, extensive molding work and many, many bumps along the way, all of which added alot to the time it took. But in the end we are happy with it and I am so grateful for all the advice and things I learned from this forum. At times I felt much more informed and knowledgable than the guys working on our job!

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Island shape, paint.
clipped on: 11.13.2006 at 10:54 pm    last updated on: 11.13.2006 at 10:54 pm

RE: Before drywall, what electrical needs did we miss? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: bethohio3 on 11.12.2006 at 01:34 am in Kitchens Forum

These are electrical ideas I collected from a few threads on the Building forum.

Exterior outlets (preferably switched from near the front porch)
On either side of front entryway for Christmas lights.
Under roof eaves
High on each porch
Around perimeter of wrap-around porch
Near the top peak of gable so there's a place to plug-in the Christmas Star
Place exterior outlets along driveway and access point on main arterial
Inside (preferably switched) outlets
At preferred location for Christmas tree
Under inside of front windows for 'candle' light ( (Stillites)
At front of main staircase for a lighted garland up the staircase.
Fireplace outlet on the mantel for decor items
Outlet over the kitchen cabinets (if they are open to the ceiling), to plug-in Christmas lights to highlight decor. In this way, you don't actually see the wires...just the glow.
For heavy decorators, consider one or two separate 20amp circuits
Pillars/posts at the end of my driveway
Uplight landscaping lights
Wiring or conduit under your driveway/sidewalks, for later landscaping
Garden accent lights and fixtures
strategically in yard for electrical mower or weed eater
one on each exterior wall

wiring for a tv outside up in a corner of my lanai pool area;
wired for two lights in my swimming pool;
wired all four corners of the home with motion sensor lighting;
wired for an irrigation only well;
Wired for motorized awnings
Foot lights (attached to light sensor outside)
Placed an outlet next to our dog's outdoor kennel for a heated water dish.
ceiling fans outside
Allow electrical runs for 'future' buildings or storage sheds, as well as possible motor home hook-ups.
Don't forget to provide electrical package for cooking and barbecue area (and, place it adjacent to the gas supply line).
Include outdoor lighting for stairs, steps and walkways.
Will there be a gazebo in your landscape?
Be sure to design an electrical package for this area!
If you're including a fountain, spa, pool, wading, or hot certain to remember electrical service for pumps, lights and outlets.
Include electrical service for future shop or work area.

wired for outdoor speakers/indoor theatre system;
Speakers in ceiling
Speakers in eaves outside
For an entertainment center, include 2 quad outlets on center of that wall!
Where your TV is located, don't forget the DVD, VCR, CD, cable, satellite receiver

TV/Cable in my kitchen;
Low voltage-xenon undercabinet lighting;
Above cabinet rope lighting.
Switched outlets above all cabinets (rope lights, Christmas lights)
Outlet above kitchen cabinets to put rope lights (on a timer).
We don't plan on having a TV in the kitchen, but we wired the tall storage cabinet with power and cable for the "next" owner.
Under sink dishwater outlet
Disposal outlet
If you have a glass-fronted cabinet, you probably will want a light source in there.
GFI outlet under the sink for the instant hot water dispenser and garbage disposal
In kitchen walls, place outlets for under- or in-cabinet lighting.
Outlet for my mixer under the countertop in the cabinet the mixer lift is in, that is the only one I wasn't able to do.
Place outlets on both ends of the kitchen island.
In the kitchen we'll have a 12 foot island and also a 3x4' moveable island. That island will be wired to connect with a floor outlet for use while in the kitchen and also have a side outlet connection so I can roll it into the GR for Christmas or even outside on our porch for Margarita parties :)

added a transfer switch into my fuse box to add a generator safely;
Wired for carbon monoxide sensors
Wired for weather station
If your new home is located in an area where power-loss frequently occurs, be certain to install a sub-panel for electrical generator, or a future alternative energy source.

Alarm system to include the fire sprinkler system
Alarms in window screens (so windows can be left open without breaching the security)
We've wired one loop of exterior security lights on one of the generator's circuits that will totally illuminate the entire yard on all four sides of the house. We have a manual switch in the bedroom, another at the front door and an automatic relay that will turn the lights on if the security system is triggered.
Switch next to bed in Master Bedroom that can turn on/off all exterior lights (yep ... those "boogieman lights").
built-in ironing boards in laundry and master closet
Outlet in the laundry room for iron.
built-in ironing boards in laundry and master closet
Outlets in the top "cubby" of each mudroom locker for charging cell phones.
In the laundry room, provide electrical service for clothes iron (and, don't forget service for a built-in ironing board with a light).

Chandelier over my bathtub in master bathroom;
Outlets near toilets (Toto washlets)
Outlets inside bathroom cabinets for hair dryers
Water sensors in all bathrooms, laundry rooms and kitchen
Dedicated circuit for whirlpool heater
tv behind mirror in master bath
telephone in master bath toilet room
Place outlets in convenient locations at bathroom vanity, especially if there's a 'his & hers' side (off the sink counter and out-of-site is always nice).
Phone jacks in the bathrooms.

Living Space
outlets placed in the floor of my family room so I could have a light placed behind the sofa on my sofa table;
Outlet on fireplace mantle.
switches for gas fireplace starters
wired for plasmas above 2 fireplaces
In addition to the normal wall outlets we're going with 2 floor outlets in the center of our greatroom and also in the center of our gameroom. They'll come with wood covers for when not in use.
Wired the garage for a workbench complete with cable, phone and internet connection
phone in garage
Place outlets in garage where car will be parked for a car battery charger.
Also, include outlets at workbench height for power tools
(check amperage requirements of tools & equipment).

wired every room for tv, internet, phone, security;

Wired for Cat 5e ABus whole house audio.
did double tv/phone wiring in bedrooms to allow for flexibility in furniture placement

Rope lights (cove dining rm, under toe kick in bath/kitchen)
Automatic pantry lights - turn on/off when door opens/closes
Inside cabinet outlets in for toe-kick rope lights which was mentioned above.
Small things you recharge, like flashlights, dustbusters, cell phones, etc.
Wired our closet light to be auto on when the door opens.
Created a niche in the wall (could also do a drawer) with a outlet that has a surge supressor plugged into it for plugging in chargers for cell phones, pda's, walkie talkies, flashlight, etc. etc. etc. Over the niche is our message center...

Dimmer over desk in kitchen/living area as I like to surf while DH is watching TV. The dimmer is to keep bright light from "interfering" with DH's shows.
I put in all the outlets and spent alot of time visualizing various furniture placements, xmas decorations, and how we live (where to plug-in the fax/computer/printer/cell phones/answering machines/digital camera/etc).
220 in my closet for a tanning bed
lighting in all niches

outlets in cabs for chargeables

wired for under cab, drop-down, flat screens in kitchen and craft room

low lighting at stairs
floor outlets in den and study
"telephone in master bath toilet room

I also double-wired for tv/phone in every bedroom figuring furniture placement may change. I put a phone jack just inside the rear porch door, in the garage, and in DH's basement workshop area.
3. Here's the interior UTILITY ELECTRICAL PACKAGE:

Place several outlets inside walk-in closets for charging...batteries, pagers, cell phones, cordless flashlights...and those worthless, every-home-has-one, dust busters!
Place an outlet adjacent to telephone jacks for caller ID boxand your cordless telephone base.
Don't forget wiring and supports for ceiling fans.
Should radiant floor heat be incorporated into your new home, be sure to include electrical service for this system.
Place outlets in the hallway and entryway.
Sometimes it's hard to find a place to plug in the vacuum cleaner.
If you are putting in a security system or intercom (or are just pre-wiring), be sure to provide
electrical service to these areas.
Closely related: Run two cat5e (or cat6) and two (paired) shielded coax lines (RG-6 not RG-59)
to each room of the house, coming from a central wiring box.
Install a whole-house surge suppressor in your main breaker box.
In the attic and crawl space entries, place outlets near the access hatches.
This will be useful for a light and to plug-in an extension cord!
Think Ahead: place conduit in the ground to accommodate future el runs.

During the design process, review your floor plan using your furniture layout. Think about the lifestyle you want to create within the homestyle.
During the build process, do a walk-thru as soon as possible.
Re-think your electrical layout. Measure. Measure. Measure.
Mark locations of cabinets and furniture.
Define your electrical services based lifestyle needs.
Place outlets and switches in locations that are convenient for you.
Remember: Too many switches in one area looks ugly.
Place lighting fixtures in locations that will benefit your lifestyle.
Be sure your electrical contractor reviews electrical layout with you.
The National Electrical Code determines minimum requirements, and you'll want to meet this standard while also addressing your needs.
If your ground floor is a concrete slab-on-grade,
be absolutely certain of your cabinet and furniture locations so the electrical service layout serves you best!
For furniture placed in the middle of a room, place outlets and fixtures directly above or below exact location.
This includes the locations of chandeliers, table lamps, or reading lights.
Don't rely on anyone else to fully consider your lifestyle...prior to concrete pouring or final framing, be certain to layout your home based on electrical service required for your lifestyle and homestyle.
For a home office, fully consider computer, scanner, printer, answering machine, lamps, chargers, radios...need I say more?
Do you need a plug-in for a laptop computer? Where?
In a bedroom, don't underestimate the number of plug-ins at your bed stand: alarm clock, cordless phone, lamps. A quad outlet may be needed.
In hallways, place small, theater-style foot lighting in the walls at knee level controlled by a switch outside each bedroom doorway (a great idea for getting up in the middle of the night, teenagers coming home late, or subtle mood lighting for a party).
Consider every room in terms of its current and future use...what is now a kid's bedroom, may become a home office or exercise room.
It's a lot cheaper and easier to place wiring now rather than later!
If you intend to include an exercise room, what are the equipment needs?
Consult with your vendor for security or audio system to determine low-volt requirements.

DH had them add an outlet and ethernet above the great room soffit so he can put a wireless access point up there. It's central to the house and won't be seen.

We had dimmers on every entry point,
Outside closet light switches.

Home runs for all TV (A must for satellite) & Phone jacks. Quad outlets located kitchen & bathroom counters,computer/office area,night stand area in bedroom.

I don't think that anyone mentioned theses--outlets in appliance garage in kitchen and outlets in the pantry.

If you have a dustbuster, include an outlet for wherever you will keep it--in our current house that was in a kitchen cabinet, but will be in the pantry in our new house.

We're using recessed lights in our finished basement, but we put in a box for a ceiling light over the area where we would put a pool table so we can add a ceiling light there in the future if we do get a pool table.

Some people put an outlet inside a kitchen cabinet for recharging things so that they can keep phones, etc., out of sight while they are being recharged.

I recall one person on another post who didn't like the big plug that you get with cordless telephones so she put the outlet for the phone in a pantry cabinet and then drilled a hole in the side of the cabinet and ran the cord through the hole to the adjacent counter where she kept the phone.

We also will probably put a motorized rollup hurricane shutter on our master bedroom window so are pre-wiring for that.
We put an outlet about 70" above floor in the pantry because "through the wall" from that is where we're hanging a special painting that we'll put light on. We're not sure exactly where the light needs to be so we can punch through the wall later and plug into the pantry.
We put an outlet whereever we want a phone rather than a phone jack (although we have lots of those too just because). We use a wireless phone system where all the extra handsets just plug in to power - no phone cable needed.

I wish I had thought about the placement of the china hutch with an interior light. There is an outlet to the left and right of the hutch, but that would mean exposing an extension cord.
Also make sure outlets are where the night stands are going(to avoid seeing electrical cords).


clipped on: 11.12.2006 at 05:37 pm    last updated on: 11.12.2006 at 05:38 pm

RE: What's your biggest regret? What can't you live without? (Follow-Up #60)

posted by: wasabi3 on 11.10.2006 at 09:50 am in Kitchens Forum


Here's what we did with the shredder pullout. I had our cabinetmaker partition the pullout for separate spaces for the shredder and trash can since we do our bill paying at the desk. The outlet is in the cabinet. Hope this helps.


cabinet handles
clipped on: 11.11.2006 at 11:19 pm    last updated on: 11.11.2006 at 11:19 pm

RE: Convection micro under counter??? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: stovegirl on 11.08.2006 at 09:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

We also have a Sharp micro/convec under counter. No problems with bending at all.

I should mention an opened bottle of wine on the wine rack above exploded. The whole bottle of wine leaked all over the microwave and we believe it shorted it out. Since then we do not put open bottles of wine up above, and we replaced our microwave which has a 90-day return policy. Thank, god.

Image Hosted by


clipped on: 11.08.2006 at 11:04 pm    last updated on: 11.08.2006 at 11:05 pm

RE: Alcove/Niche in tile backsplash behind range? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: jeri on 10.21.2006 at 03:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

I too am planning on doing this. Its hard to find pictures of them. Here is one other that I have saved. I hope more people post

Image and video hosting by TinyPic


range niche
clipped on: 10.22.2006 at 09:49 pm    last updated on: 11.06.2006 at 09:23 am

RE: Anyone use BM Golden Honey or Honeywheat, or other yellowy-go (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: avajen on 11.03.2006 at 02:15 pm in Paint Forum

Hi, we're using Golden Honey for our kitchen. There was a picture in a Kitchen/Bath magazine, that I fell in love with, ya know at the back where they list the designer, well I called her & she said you can't miss with this color. She said uses this color in every house she does, & the clients love it. I know it doesn't help much, but we'll be using it in about 3 weeks. It is a beautiful color.


clipped on: 11.05.2006 at 10:47 pm    last updated on: 11.05.2006 at 10:47 pm

RE: Kitchen Lighting (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jon1270 on 10.10.2006 at 08:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

There are a lot of ways to get the job done, but I like line voltage fixtures rather than low-voltage, for most things. Line-voltage fixtures and dimmers are much cheaper, and the light they produce is generally softer and easier to work with. That said, some people do use low-voltage fixtures for general lighting, but I don't know enough about them to make good recommendations there.

On the line-voltage side of things, I like 5" cans because they let you use PAR30 size bulbs. 4" cans restrict you to PAR20 bulbs, which are smaller and less efficient. You could use 4" cans, but you'd need to space them closer together to get enough light.

To light the perimeter countertops, the most common recommendation around here is to place them over the edges of the counter, or about 26" from the wall. Spacing between them depends on the bulbs you expect to use.

I like halogen PAR bulbs. Halogens last longer than standard incandescent, produce whiter light, and more of it per watt. Some possibile schemes to start with:

50PAR20/HAL/SPL/NFL30 bulbs in 4" cans, spaced about 32" apart.

50PAR30/HAL/SPL/FL40 bulbs in 5" cans, spaced about 44" apart.

75PAR30LN/CAP/SPL/WFL50 bulbs in 5" cans, spaced about 56" apart

Not to mention the fluorescent options, which I think are neat but which I don't know so much about...

Any of those should give you good task lighting at counter level. You don't need to maintain that sort of spacing across the whole ceiling -- just along the counters. The spacings are just targets, too; you'll end up bumping them one way or another to emphasize certain features or to avoid ceiling joists. You'll want some fixtures over the island, too, and probably more around the table to complement the light from the chandelier.


clipped on: 10.28.2006 at 10:46 am    last updated on: 10.28.2006 at 10:47 am

RE: Please help with cabinet wood decisions (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: meg711 on 10.26.2006 at 08:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

We will have alder cabinets and they are stained what I thought was a medium color--a mix of cherry and teak. We didn't make the decision about what kind of wood to use; it was what came with the house, which is a spec house. And we're in the Pacific northwest and they use a lot of alder wood here. I can tell you that there is a variation of stain on my cabinets. Some pieces of wood are very light, and some are darker. I like this variation--except for one drawer which is so light your eye automatically goes to it. That drawer will be stained a little darker. Our builder has said that the cabinets will not darken with age.

One thing you should consider is that some of the people posting here have mentioned that knotty alder wood is very soft. I don't know if that's true of regular alder wood, too, but it's something to consider.

Good luck!

btw, here's a photo showing our stain. This piece is a little lighter than most of the cabinets.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


alder with Kashmir white
clipped on: 10.26.2006 at 11:21 pm    last updated on: 10.26.2006 at 11:22 pm

RE: sarahandbray (Follow-Up #71)

posted by: sarahandbray on 10.23.2006 at 06:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi everyone! Great to see everyone chugging along...exciting AND exhausting, isn't it??

My big issue of the day is paint color! I'll be priming tonight with my SIL once both our sets of kids go to sleep...and then tomorrow morning I have to give her husband the paint number I want from Sherwin-Williams so he can get it for me tomorrow (he's a rep for them...hefty family discount!). I am SO BAD with choosing paint colors!!! (anyone have a lightish beige/tan they like???) I'll put on two coats tomorrow afternoon/evening, and then the cabinets will start being installed Wednesday morning!! I know you can paint once the cabinets are in, but it seems like it would be so much harder!! I hope I like one of the three samples I bought from SW today!!!

Here's a pic of the tile/soapstone/hardware (and pewter plate for the backsplash) I'll be using. I had another post about this...but it kind of got buried. Any thoughts as to color?? You can't really see the crackle finish on the tile with the flash, but the color (at least on my monitor) is pretty accurate.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting



clipped on: 10.25.2006 at 12:18 am    last updated on: 10.25.2006 at 12:18 am

RE: Wood Hood - please post pics (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: athomedad on 10.18.2006 at 09:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's mine-cherry with a light stain.

Here is a link that might be useful: kitchen pics


cherry with light stain
clipped on: 10.19.2006 at 03:50 pm    last updated on: 10.19.2006 at 03:50 pm

RE: Marble sealer recommendations (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bill_vincent on 07.27.2006 at 03:57 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Use Aquamix Sealers Choice Gold or Miracle's 511 Impregnator, and you shouldn't have to seal but maybe once every couploe of years.

BE ADVISED-- sealers will NOT stop etching by acidic substances.


sealer for mable
clipped on: 10.08.2006 at 08:07 pm    last updated on: 10.08.2006 at 08:08 pm

RE: Archways near kitchen (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: paulines on 09.26.2006 at 07:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

Like these, Mari? :

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clipped on: 09.27.2006 at 10:27 pm    last updated on: 09.27.2006 at 10:28 pm

RE: Subway Tile - Crackled look - Any Pics! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bill_vincent on 09.06.2006 at 11:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

I know what you're talking about (the undulating tile). I know both Dal and AO used to carry lines with that kind of surface, but I can't remember the name of it, and I DO know that it's been discontinued for quite a while. As for anyone else that markets it, that I don't know.

Concerning the tile in the picture, that, I can't tell you. The homeowner bought it prior to my coming in, and I just installed it. I know that although she used a normal glaze subway tile on the walls, salbwil used a crackle glaze tile on the floor of her bathroom. I believe it was Metropolitan that made her floor tile.

Sally, you around?

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white crackle hex floor kids
clipped on: 09.07.2006 at 10:45 am    last updated on: 09.07.2006 at 10:46 am

RE: Pictures of Hoods or Mantels above cooktop? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mdmc on 09.01.2006 at 03:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

No tile but here is mine.

Here is a link that might be useful: My Hood


Cabinets with bead
clipped on: 09.01.2006 at 11:25 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2006 at 11:27 pm

RE: Finally finished bathroom (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: pkirkha1 on 02.05.2006 at 10:55 am in Bathrooms Forum

Thanks - the tile is called Colorlands - whitelands is the specific color. The border is one of the whitelands options. The counter is granite and it was fabricated to match the vanity cabinet. Also - I put my pics on another site - so I have new links. Thanks for the positive comments.

Here is a link that might be useful: remodel pics


frosted glass master bath door
clipped on: 08.23.2006 at 06:47 pm    last updated on: 08.23.2006 at 06:48 pm

RE: What lighting is best for putting on makeup in the bathroom (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: johnmari on 08.21.2006 at 02:22 am in Bathrooms Forum

"Full spectrum" lighting (Chromalux, Verilux, Neolite) or daylight-mimicking bulbs such as GE Reveal or Sylvania Daylight give the truest/cleanest light, closest to sunlight. I like the Chromalux/Verilux best, then the Sylvania; I wasn't thrilled with the Reveal bulbs. You can tell a FS or daylight-mimicking bulb by the purplish or bluish neodymium coating. Fluorescents have a "cold" light that can make the skin look greenish or bluish (IME so-called color corrected fluorescents have a weird pinkish look) and standard incandescents have a very yellow cast. Keep the lighting at or only a little above eye level if you can, light on each side of the mirror - never light from above. When I had professional makeup done for a wedding the lighting was VERY bright, I demanded very subtle makeup and I think the bright lighting helped them do that because they could judge the tiny amounts of makeup they were using and blend it very carefully. Put the lights on a dimmer so that you can crank it up when you need to and have it at a more comfortable level when you don't. Make sure you don't choose light fixtures with colored glass as that can distort the color of the light they cast.


clipped on: 08.22.2006 at 01:29 am    last updated on: 08.22.2006 at 01:30 am

RE: Can I see your Memoirs bathrooms? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: missourimomtotwo on 08.11.2006 at 09:52 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I don't have the little shades on my sconces yet, but here's our 30" Memoirs pedestal with the Memoirs faucet. I wanted a mirror not real traditional to sort of balance out the conservative lines of the sink, but not too funky. Our accent color in there is red (seen in the artwork to the left of thew doorway).

We also have Toto's throughout, BTW, but it's to the left of the sink in the powder room. (And ranchreno, your story made me laugh: My 5-YO tried to flush half a roll of TP down shortly after move-in, and tho we had a little mess the toilet fixed the problem almost on its own.)


clipped on: 08.12.2006 at 05:17 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2006 at 05:17 pm

RE: holy tile madness - nyc $$$ (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: michoumonster on 07.08.2006 at 01:13 am in Kitchens Forum

i uploaded some of the pics of tiles that i took at Integrated Resources Group.
i got confused (as i have been looking at so many tile places!) but i actually saw the tantrum tiles at a store called Tile Source for $4 a piece. a lookalike is at maestromosaics, called icicle glass,

also, a store called Italyhome (in SF Design Center) also sells a similar tile from Italy called smaltato for $30 per sf.

i believe the ones at Integrated Resources are more like the walker zanger mizu tiles, with a little metallic sparkle and a crackle glaze finish (but i don't have pics of them, sorry!).
here are the pics i took at Integrated Resources, for those interested.

Here is a link that might be useful: integrated resource tiles


clipped on: 08.10.2006 at 11:44 am    last updated on: 08.10.2006 at 11:44 am

'Period-Inspired' (aka Pottery Barn) FINISHED Bath Pics - finally

posted by: buffalotina on 08.09.2006 at 10:06 pm in Bathrooms Forum

THANKS to everyone who helped me with great advice, inspiration and moral support... especially Johnmari and Bill V.! (Bill - my tub-tile joint is active again... look out for a post!!!).

Ranchreno, here are my Kohler Memoirs pictures. How is your bath coming along?

Johnmari, keep your posts coming. Can't wait to see pictures of your bath as it progresses.

Here are the 'specs' for my new bathroom (6 months in the making!)

Sink: Kohler Memoirs Stately (24 inch version)
Toilet: Kohler Memoirs Stately One Piece
Bathtub: Kohler Bancroft

Sink Faucet: Kohler Memoirs Stately with Deco Handles (Polished Chrome)
Shower Valve & Trim: Kohler Master Shower (Polished Chrome)
Showerhead: Kohler Forte Handheld (Polished Chrome)

Wall Tile: American Olean Greenwich Village Designer White (Matte)
Floor Tile: American Olean Unglazed 1' porcelain in White with Sterling Silver accents
Grout: Spectralock Pro in Smoke Grey (wall and floor)
Beadboard: Nantucket Beadboard painted with Benjamin Moore semi-gloss finish in Super White
Walls: Benjamin Moore Pearl finish in Yarmouth Bue

Medicine Cabinet: Rejuvenation Mendenhall
Pendant Light: Rejuvenation Humboldt (Polished Nickel)
Wall Sconce: Rejuvenation Siletz (Polished Nickel)
Towel Rack, Ring & Toilet Tissue Holder: Restoration Hardware Asbury (Polished Nickel)
Towel and Robe Hooks: Restoration Hardware Chatham (Polished Nickel)
Glass Shelf Stand: Restoration Hardware Newbury (Polished Nickel)
Alcove Drawer Unit: Container Store
Alcove Shelf Baskets: Ten Thousand Villages
Shower Curtain & Towels: Restoration Hardware (Silver Sage)

To Do: Simple white curtain for window and white liners for shelf baskets



Here is a link that might be useful: Finished Bath Pics


clipped on: 08.10.2006 at 12:07 am    last updated on: 08.10.2006 at 12:07 am

Master Bath Done! Minus Shower Glass

posted by: lmm1845 on 08.09.2006 at 09:59 am in Bathrooms Forum

YEAH! Shower glass measuring is happening today, so for the time being we're using our old shower curtain!

This has been a lot of fun, but man the dust! Who knew? After a month of having a sore throat, suddenly its all right now that the construction is done! LOL

Here is a link that might be useful: Master Bath Remodel


vanity for half bath
clipped on: 08.10.2006 at 12:02 am    last updated on: 08.10.2006 at 12:03 am

RE: Finished Kitchen Pics - Thanks for the help! (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: pirula on 07.16.2006 at 02:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here is a link to Claudia's kitchen.

It's beautiful, well done!


Here is a link that might be useful: Claudia's kitchen


costco bath vanity (kids bath?) plus built in thermador fridge
clipped on: 08.05.2006 at 06:07 pm    last updated on: 08.05.2006 at 06:08 pm

Finally finished bathroom

posted by: pkirkha1 on 01.30.2006 at 11:50 am in Bathrooms Forum


I don't post much but I wanted to say thanks to all here for your support, ideas and information. Here is our finished master bathroom (really my husband's bathroom) - I use the bathroom in the hall. I know it isn't as large or grand as many baths here but we love it and got a lot more space and light.

Thanks again for all the help and support.


Here is a link that might be useful: Kirkhart Master Bath


see frosted pocket door for master bath?
clipped on: 08.05.2006 at 05:59 pm    last updated on: 08.05.2006 at 06:00 pm

RE: Which way do you like my border/pencil tiles layed out? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: caroleoh on 08.03.2006 at 03:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sure Sweeby, you had to be the rogue voter! What I didn't like about option 2 was the fact that I had to start the run with a 1/2 pencil tile to get on the staggered schedule.

I went out and looked at ArtTeacher's backsplash again because her's was my inspiration, and she did it staggered. Here's a picture of her's finished.

With the grout and everything does everyone still like it staggered? I think her backsplash is so pretty, but Sweeby also brings up a good point (as usual!) :-)


tumbled marble backsplash
clipped on: 08.03.2006 at 03:58 pm    last updated on: 08.03.2006 at 03:58 pm

RE: 'Something's Gotta Give' Kitchen and HINGES! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: sarahandbray on 08.02.2006 at 07:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

Are you kidding???? I think they are DEFINITELY back in style and if I had the money, this is the door from Wood-Mode I would have gone with!!! Inset, Essex recessed w/exposed hinges!!! Love the exposed hinges on inset doors (just not when they're the highest door Wood-Mode carries!!!) If you can afford inset, definitely do it--I think they look fantastic!!

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Inset door with hinges exposed
clipped on: 08.02.2006 at 10:59 pm    last updated on: 08.02.2006 at 11:00 pm

RE: Places to buy kitchen cabinet pulls in Bay area (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: remodeler_matt on 08.01.2006 at 02:43 am in Kitchens Forum

For all types of pulls, but with an emphasis on the unusual, check out:

3886 17th Street
San Francisco, CA 94114-2030
Tel: 415.864.3886
Fax: 415.864.3889

Started by Lou Anne Bauer, a designer who decorated a house we lived in. Very cool store.


Bay Area Builders Hardware
33 Elmira Street
San Francisco, CA 94124
Tel: 415.468.9600
Fax: 415.468.9668

Belmont Hardware
940 El Camino Real
Belmont, CA 94002
Tel: 650.591.0345
Fax: 650.591.9253
(they have other stores in the BA too)

D J Mehler Collections
165 Rhode Island
San Francisco, CA 94103
Tel: 415.864.0850
Fax: 415.864.0851

E.M. Hundley Hardware Co.
617 Bryant St.
San Francisco, CA 94107
Tel: 415.777.5050
Fax: 415.777.5960

There's also some fantastic salvage stores. Check out this list:

Gadgets I can't help you with. I go for simple and reliable.

Happy hunting.


cabinet pulls
clipped on: 08.02.2006 at 01:37 pm    last updated on: 08.02.2006 at 01:38 pm

RE: Questions about marble countertops (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: momto4kids on 07.31.2006 at 12:06 pm in Kitchens Forum


I agree with's not for everyone. Now having said that, I love it and cannot imagine my kitchen without it. I have Calacatta Oro, honed, and sealed with the 511. No staining. At all. Etching...yes, tiny little spots no one else sees. I know where they are, so I see them. Bunglogrl says...teensy, itsy, bitsy...but, again, no one sees it. I know where DH tossed the car keys onto the counter or where the plumber tossed his wrench on the counter.

Other than that, they are still gorgeous! Acidic products will begin etching my marble immediately. The sealer doesn't protect against etching. The only habit I had to change in the kitchen when I switched from granite to marble was to pull out a bigger cutting board. Beyond that, I take no greater care. I also have four children (ages 6-11) and a not-at-all-careful DH. No problems in my working and worked-hard kitchen!

A lot of marks that look like etching might just be watermarks or something similar, and will clean right off with a ScotchBrite pad. I have also minimized (or virtually eliminated) the effect of etch marks with a ScotchBrite or with very fine sandpaper.

There are several folks like Bunglogrl, Zolablue, Spacific, and me, to name a few...who have marble and love it. I suppose I did have a bit of a "mental" hurdle to overcome at first...always worrying about staining. But now that it has been this long and I know the kind of things that have been left on my counters with no detriment...I'm over it.

My fall back position, should I ever need it, is I know I can get a marble resotration company to come out and rehone my counters if I drop a bottle of vinegar on them and get a horrid, huge etch mark that I simply cannot live with. That's not likely...but I have a fall-back, so mentally I can get over anything. And...I know the rehoning won't be that bad because I had to have ALL my counters rehoned in place as my original fabricator did a lousy job honing them. If going through rehoning is the "worst" I'd have to's no problem. Living with and enjoying the marble far outweighs any of the downsides!


marble caremarble care
clipped on: 08.01.2006 at 08:39 pm    last updated on: 08.01.2006 at 08:39 pm

RE: White Cabinets...opinions...regrets (Follow-Up #54)

posted by: lzclay on 07.06.2006 at 11:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi, Nicole,
This is probably the best 'close' shot I have. Hope this helps (and thanks!)

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backsplash, honed granite, uppers with glass at tops
clipped on: 07.30.2006 at 10:59 pm    last updated on: 08.01.2006 at 08:22 pm

RE: White Cabinets...opinions...regrets (Follow-Up #58)

posted by: lzclay on 07.08.2006 at 08:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Big Tex, we used Martha Stewart's 'Glass of Milk' from Sherwin Williams.

Amandaw33, the tile is 'Ming Green' honed marble from Maestro Mosaics. You can find it here:
And, I apologize for not listing in the finished kithcens blog. I intend to, I just keep waiting for that elusive 'one more thing' to be done and then there's always being picture-ready. (THAT doesn't happen around here with my 3 little ones(.

elljays, it is honed granite -- it's called 'Blue Galactica'

And, thanks to all of you for the kind words!

Here is a link that might be useful: Maestro Mosaics


specs on kitchen pic
clipped on: 08.01.2006 at 08:20 pm    last updated on: 08.01.2006 at 08:21 pm

RE: Pics of white subway and/or hex with gray/silver grout? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: jejvtr on 06.17.2006 at 10:32 pm in Bathrooms Forum


we just finished master bath 1" hex - A/O like but I found them cheaper no name - I wanted them glazed and most the 1" hex I found came unglazed which i felt would be harder to keep clean - I think since they are so small & so much grout the slippery issue is minimized -

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good luck


kids bath idea
clipped on: 07.27.2006 at 03:35 pm    last updated on: 07.30.2006 at 06:16 pm

Oil rubbed bronze hardware

posted by: aprilquilts on 07.28.2006 at 10:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi there,
I'm researching hardware, and need to order very soon, since the cabinet installation is starting next week. I have a little time because some cabs were wrong, and I have to re-order.

I want to use simple hardware that is in the oil rubbed bronze finish. I understand that over time, this finish will get worn, and the base metal will show through. I like that idea. Because of this; however, I want to make sure the base metal of the knob is brass.

In looking around online, I have found several lines that seem to fit. I'd like for whatever knob I choose to be smooth and not gritty at all.

The brands I have found are:
Lee Valley at $2.80 per knob.
Belwith Keeler at $3.41 per knob.
Top Knobs at $5.27 per knob.
Schaub at $5.16 per knob.

I need approximately 54 knobs. Does anyone have any experience with any of these companies? Is one thought to be better quality than another? I'm over-budget and would love to save a little money, but I don't want to be dis-satisfied either. The Lee Valley pulls are not my favorite, so they may be out of the running.

Thanks for any help!

Here is a link that might be useful: Sample knob I'm considering


clipped on: 07.29.2006 at 11:36 am    last updated on: 07.29.2006 at 11:36 am

RE: NonGreen Shower please? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: pharaoh on 05.13.2006 at 09:36 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Its called Starphire. Here is a picture of my shower. The glass is 1/2" thick with no green tint, it looks blue edge on...


floating bench or built in? Use space by adding drawer, interesting idea.
clipped on: 07.12.2006 at 11:36 pm    last updated on: 07.12.2006 at 11:37 pm

RE: old house--new bathroom (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: anna_chosak on 06.22.2005 at 12:06 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Thanks, Sally and Trish! After more than a year, I'm still enjoying this bathroom so much. :-)

I finally have some better pictures of the tile that someone else took for me. Here they are:

Basketweave marble tile, border of 4x4" unpolished Ming, base tiles, Ming pencil trim, and white subway tiles.

Closeup of basketweave patterned floor tile.


great bath floor tile
clipped on: 07.12.2006 at 11:30 pm    last updated on: 07.12.2006 at 11:31 pm

RE: White Cabinets...opinions...regrets (Follow-Up #42)

posted by: lzclay on 07.05.2006 at 10:43 am in Kitchens Forum

We just love crisp, white, airy kitchens and also love dark furniture and floors--so we decided to combine both in our kitchen. After 5 months, we still love it. The finish was spray-painted on-site, looks beautiful, and cleans like a dream (even with 3 little kids and a dirt yard while we wait for our grass to come in!) If you love it, go for it. Around here, many folks think it's awful to paint any wood -- the wood worship runs deep! Since I knew we also crave lots of color we brought that in with the ming-green marble backsplash and painted the walls to match that. I realize that our neighbors and family may not like our kitchen (or house, for that matter) but really, it suits us and we wouldn't have been happy with the all-wood cabinets, wood floors and white walls that almost everyone has around here. Different strokes, right?

Good luck deciding!

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clipped on: 07.05.2006 at 10:36 pm    last updated on: 07.05.2006 at 10:36 pm

RE: Report: My visit to Ann Sacks Tile (long) (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: msrevise on 06.26.2006 at 08:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Exactly, whiteventino, and you don't charge 25/sf! (have you thought of going into business?)

verysleepy, i definitely wouldn't spend that much on a tile that i think i could get lots of places; i went there hoping that some of their unique designs might work, but...i guess it's better for my wallet that they don't! Anyway, i need about 40sf all together, with about 4 sf of that being the feature over the range.

ramses, i'll check that site, thank you! I'm posting a couple pics below...

sweeby--where did you find the bird mosaic? on ebay? do you have the link?

As a whole, i guess my Ann Sacks visit was a disappointing one, b/c i didn't feel like the designer was "getting" what i wanted to do and wasn't really tuning in to my likes/dislikes. Probably would've helped if i knew who to ask for there, but seriously, i don't know anyone who's bought their tile there!

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love granite
clipped on: 06.27.2006 at 04:50 pm    last updated on: 06.27.2006 at 04:51 pm

RE: Calling Artteacher_nj regarding her wonderful backsplash (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: starpooh on 06.02.2006 at 05:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks for the info caroleoh! I added it to ArtTeacher_NJ's post in the FKB.
And thanks linkjake for posting the questions!

Here is a link that might be useful: ArtTeacher_NJ's kitchen


clipped on: 06.15.2006 at 12:19 am    last updated on: 06.15.2006 at 12:21 am

Granite fabricator in SF Bay area

posted by: zinfanatic on 06.20.2006 at 04:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

I just took my first foray into granite-marble land. I am replacing a tile counter and therefore am not working with a contractor. I need a recommendation for a fabricator in the Berkeley -Oakland area. I was given the name of a fabricator, Creative Stone in Oakland, by one of the showrooms I visited. Does anyone have experience with a good fabricator and most particularly Creative stone?


clipped on: 06.21.2006 at 09:14 am    last updated on: 06.21.2006 at 09:14 am

RE: Pics of white subway and/or hex with gray/silver grout? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: runninginplace on 06.14.2006 at 09:38 am in Bathrooms Forum

Ranchreno, I"m in exactly the same situation-and Tina's pictures definitely pushed me toward the same inclination of white hex/gray-silver grout.

I've got a variation I'm considering and I'd appreciate any feedback or opinion. There is a pinwheel type design from American Olean called Chloe. I've linked to it below. I'm wondering how it might look to put that on the floor in the 'Opal' variation, which is white with what looks like a very pale gray insert tile in the middle. I am visualizing the silvery grout picking up that tone but also (hopefully) looking good as a contrast to the mostly-white tile. I have even considered doing a border of solid white Chloe around the perimeter of the bathroom and echo that around the perimeter of the shower...and maybe even use a row of the white Chloe between rope molding as the accent strip. Thoughts?

Here is a link that might be useful: AO Chloe Satin White (w/Opal )Tile


clipped on: 06.20.2006 at 05:22 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2006 at 05:22 pm

RE: Pics of white subway and/or hex with gray/silver grout? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buffalotina on 06.14.2006 at 08:37 am in Bathrooms Forum

I am getting ready to post final pictures of my now finished bathroom, but here are ones I took a while back. Johnmari and Bill V. helped me through any worries I may have had about white vs. grey grout. After doing the grey I absolutely LOVE it and would have been really unhappy with white. My tiles are AO Greenwich Village in Designer White (Matte tile) and AO White unglazed 1" floor tile with Sterling Silver accent tiles. The grout is Spectrlock smoke grey on both walls and floor.

Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: Subway Tile with Grey Grout


clipped on: 06.20.2006 at 05:18 pm    last updated on: 06.20.2006 at 05:19 pm

RE: Wow! 'I Survived a Kitchen Remodel' - My Finished Kitchen (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: tlsullivanct on 08.08.2005 at 03:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you Liz.

What more is there?

Well, there is an empty room that used to be the dining room right behind the island. I need to live with my new space for a while to see how I want to utilize it. I do want a custom hutch like this one to go against the long wall; maybe in a dark red. Extra storage is always welcome!


clipped on: 06.12.2006 at 11:32 pm    last updated on: 06.12.2006 at 11:32 pm