Clippings by lezli_2010

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RE: towel holder on door cabinet (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: ICFgreen on 12.20.2011 at 08:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

I was just brainstorming this idea myself. (thank you, Pinterest). This is what I'm leaning toward. The racks pull forward.

Source: merillat.com via Jen on Pinterest

These are from Ikea, the bars swing out.

Source: These are also from Ikea. I like that they flip down so they take up less visual space. I've seen similar ones at The Container Store.


This one is a multi-problem solver. You can put a rag over the bar, as well as hang cleaning bottles.

We're using these pulls, but any pull could be attached on the inside of the sink:

A few other ideas:

Source: marthastewart.com via C on Pinterest


Source: bhg.com via Jacqueline on Pinterest


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clipped on: 02.23.2012 at 08:20 pm    last updated on: 02.23.2012 at 08:20 pm

RE: What color switchplates with cream backsplash? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: chicagoans on 07.05.2011 at 04:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

look at switchhits.com for all kinds of options from fancy to plainer. You can search by color (see the categories on the left side and scroll down.) If you can't find an exact match, maybe you can find a metal one to coordinate with your hardware or faucet.

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clipped on: 07.05.2011 at 09:26 pm    last updated on: 07.05.2011 at 09:26 pm

RE: Electrical outlet in vanity drawer? How? (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: maryland_irisman on 11.15.2009 at 10:24 am in Bathrooms Forum

I did a quick search for "coiled cable" on line, here's the first of the list that came up. You can refine your search from there.

http://www.cablescience.com/

Another thought was a retractable cord. There are various contraptions designed for commercial applications.

Another real simple solution would be to use a stranded wire pigtail (stranded wire is designed for movement of the wire.) and let it droop behind the drawer, allowing the drawer to be pulled open and closed, into a receptacle in the drawer. Make sure it is secured to the electrical box with the proper lug so that it won't be inadvertently pulled out. Your refrigerator doors or even your car doors can give you some idea what you would be doing. You can look to hinge areas to see how they ran flexible wire to power any electrical's in the doors.

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clipped on: 05.24.2011 at 07:01 am    last updated on: 05.24.2011 at 07:01 am

Not sure why the link isn't working for you... (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: just_julie on 11.08.2009 at 07:32 pm in Bathrooms Forum

http://www.remodeling.hw.net/remodeling/dryer-drawer.aspx

Materials List

-Finished drawer box, ready to be installed
-SurgeMaster surge protector.
Fleming cuts the surge protector off and uses the plug-end, because it is offset at a 90-degree angle (allowing the best clearance) and because the plug-end swivels

-Plastic outlet box 1 inches deep by 2 3/8 inches wide by 3 inches long

-Receptacle and receptacle cover

To do this, Fleming shortens a standard drawer box to leave 2 inches between the back of the box and the back of the cabinet. So for a 21-inch drawer, he builds a custom 18-inch box to allow for clearance for the plug. The electrician must provide a wall outlet located approximately even with the opening in the rear of the drawer box.

"Then we use an SO Cord a flat extension cord with prongs at a 90-degree angle. We cut it to 3 feet long, with the molded end wired into the outlet box. We place another outlet behind the drawer, mounted on the wall," says the owner of Classic Remodeling.

There's a handy pic at the website.

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clipped on: 05.24.2011 at 06:53 am    last updated on: 05.24.2011 at 06:53 am

RE: Question: whole house audio for dummies, part II (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: athensmomof3 on 06.17.2010 at 09:29 pm in Building a Home Forum

Broke down and ordered a Sqeezebox duet a couple of days ago and got it this afternoon. Coolest. Thing. Ever. I had no idea everything it could do and everything I had access to through it.

Although accessing itunes and pandora is great, my favorite thing may be the Live Music Archive which has allowed me to release my inner Dead Head. . . There must be a thousand live Grateful Dead concerts available, itemized by date and venue, and each concert broken down by song so you can skip over the 30 minute drum solos :) Since I no longer have a cassette player to play my old, college Dead bootlegs, this alone makes it worth it for me!

I can only imagine how awesome it is when hooked up to whole house audio. I don't think I would need any thing else!


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clipped on: 05.05.2011 at 06:56 pm    last updated on: 05.05.2011 at 06:56 pm

RE: cabinet handle size (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: itsallaboutthefood on 04.25.2011 at 08:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

Will the handles be on cabinet doors or drawers? What door style do you have and will the drawers have the same kind of fronts? Do you want one handle per large drawer or two? What kind of handles are they?

I think we would need more information to be helpful.

For my kitchen...
I have heard it said that the handles should be roughly 1/3 the width of the drawer. I have heard this proportion used for many purposes (I think the golden mean is close to 1/3) and it seemed right for my kitchen. However, when I tried it on my drawers (which have a shaker front), it didn't seem right. But when I tried a handle that was 1/3 of the width of the center part of the drawer front (inside the rail and style), it looked right to me. So I went with 4" handles on my 18" drawer stack (inside width of the rail & style was 12"), 5.5" on my 21" drawer stack (15" inside) and 7" on my 30" drawer stacks (24" inside).

But I did buy samples and held them up to the drawers before making my final decision.


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clipped on: 04.25.2011 at 10:01 pm    last updated on: 04.25.2011 at 10:01 pm

RE: Window treatments for long wall of windows? Pics? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: palimpsest on 04.03.2011 at 10:14 am in Home Decorating Forum

Ceiling mounted ripple fold track across the whole wall. I will post a picture later :)


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clipped on: 04.25.2011 at 06:16 am    last updated on: 04.25.2011 at 06:17 am

RE: shower threshold and half wall - tile on top or solid piece? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: richjsn on 07.11.2010 at 06:50 pm in Bathrooms Forum

While I was (am) doing constrution on our Master bath I consulted two different glass supplyers. I wanted to be sure that my construction was inline with there products. Mainly seemless glass 3/8 inch. Both said they perfered a soloid service as opposed to a tile one. For the above reasons stated. I would also suggest you put a slight slope to your top towards the shower...about 1/8 inch should do it. That way water will run off as opposed to hanging around where the glass meets the surface.


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clipped on: 04.15.2011 at 10:12 am    last updated on: 04.15.2011 at 10:12 am

RE: shower threshold and half wall - tile on top or solid piece? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bill_vincent on 07.10.2010 at 11:46 am in Bathrooms Forum

I've gone both ways in both places, but my preference is for solid pieces, for a couple of reasons. First, it gives the glass guy a better surface to work with, and secondly, it's just that much more protection against water intrusion. You can also extend the piece past the surface of the wall (or inside of the curb) so as to provide for a drip edge, making it that much easier to keep under it clean, as well. In either case, though, you want to make sure the area is waterproofed before you install either the tile or the slab.

Keep in mind that on the floor, you're not going to be drilling and mounting anything through the tile.


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clipped on: 04.15.2011 at 10:11 am    last updated on: 04.15.2011 at 10:11 am

RE: double bowl sink (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cfire on 03.14.2011 at 07:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, I can't provide any direction about the sink you described, but I can share a couple of "boy, I wish I had known that before..." items. We went with a SS double bowl sink with a low divide. That lets me have two equal bowls, but the divider is low enough to let me easily wash cookie sheets and other large items.

Here's what you might think about:

The first is the height of the counter when installing a 8" sink in granite counter tops. I was surprised to find that the first time I washed dishes the sink felt lower even though I was told the counters were the same height as our old ones.

After the fact our contractor explained that the old laminate we had was thicker than our 3 cm granite. So, we actually have counters that are 35 3/4" rather than 36" high. That doesn't sound too bad but that, in combination with the deeper bowls, makes the reach down in the bowl a bit uncomfortable. It's not terrible and doesn't have me crying, but had I known, I would have certainly raised the counters an inch or more (I'm 5'5).

The other thing you would only need to consider if there are companion accessories like a cutting board or dish drain that go with the sink that you plan to buy. In that case, the issue for you would be whether to have the sink installed with a reveal.

For example, with our sink, there happens to be a companion cutting board that can fit over one of the bowls, but to use it, the sink needs to be installed with a little reveal so that there's something for it to rest on. As you can guess, our sink wasn't installed with a reveal cause I didn't know to ask for it. (My husband isn't disappointed about this at all though cause the accessories are very pricey!)

HTH


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clipped on: 04.09.2011 at 03:28 pm    last updated on: 04.09.2011 at 03:28 pm

RE: Do you have a blind corner? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: elizpiz on 04.05.2009 at 08:59 am in Kitchens Forum

Melanie, I posted this in my finished kitchen thread in response to a q from spincrazy about our "magic corner". In our old kitchen, I had a lazy susan and loved it. However, in our new kitchen in one corner that wasnt going to work because of the sink and our cabinet makers suggestions for the layout with two "matching" blind corners was one we really liked.

Here's what the cabinet maker originally wanted to put in:

It was clear that we would lose space in the far reaches of the corner because the shelves in the interior didn't extend all the way into the corner and there was wasted space. After much conversation (and me trying to convince the cabinet maker that in fact there was wasted space), the cabinet maker offered to custom build a wood shelf for the bottom of both corners. These pix show how much more we get out of those bottom shelves.

This is a view of the right corner. You can just see the wood shelf:
Condiments in corner unit

This is the interior of the left corner; you can see the wood shelf and how much bigger it is than the wire one:
Photobucket

Photobucket

We love this solution and even he had to admit we got a lot more space! :-)

Eliz

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clipped on: 03.27.2011 at 09:54 am    last updated on: 03.27.2011 at 09:55 am

RE: Marquis Solara (by Kingsman) versus Valor Legend G3 insert fi (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: vegansally on 11.06.2009 at 12:08 pm in Fireplaces Forum

REVIEW FOR MARQUIS BY KINGSMAN, MODEL "SOLARA 36"

I had this fireplace professionally installed three days ago and really wish I hadn't. It is quite pretty - the log-set is one of the best I have seen.

However, the heat output is really disappointing, at only 21,000 BTUs. It does not heat up my small family room sufficiently.

I would not recommend this if you are looking for a heating source. If you are just looking for ambiance, then this fireplace might be OK for you.

Looks good, but disappointing heat output. It also makes a loud bang noise every once in a while which makes everyone in the room jump.

Not recommended. I wish I had bought a Valor instead. When I was purchasing this I could not find even one on-line review, which is why I am posting this so quickly. I hope to save someone else from making the same mistake I made.

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clipped on: 03.07.2011 at 12:04 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2011 at 12:04 pm

RE: finished kitchen pics... but it doesn't feel finished (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: remodel-mama on 02.22.2011 at 10:39 am in Kitchens Forum

Thanks everyone. I will get some stuff in there (oh and take the stickers of the frige) and re-evaluate ;)

The wall color is BM Salsa Dancing. It's a great color - I love it.


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clipped on: 02.22.2011 at 03:05 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2011 at 03:05 pm

RE: What was your best bathroom remodeling decision? (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: arlinek on 03.06.2007 at 06:12 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Oh, that's easy! The one I eventually got was the Broan (partner co. with Nutone), model # is: 52WH344DPF. This happens to be 34" high, but I liked it's looks and it was quite a bit less $$ than one of its competitors: Robern, which is a "higher-end" company that makes beau. cabs, also. But, their price is around $500-$600, instead of, say $200 +. Go to HomeClick.com and type in "medicine cabinets" and you'll start to get an idea of what's really out there. Robern even makes cabs that are 39" High! You just have to make sure you read the details as the variables are tremendous - ht. X width X depth (4"? 6"?), flush mounted on wall?, surface mounting?, if you want a wider one, will your opening allow it, or is there going to be electrical in the way, pipes, etc. ? Make sure you place it where YOU can reach the top level shelf and not the carpenter's reach!! Do you want only one interior mirror? or two (2nd one behind the shelving)? Doors are usually reversible, but you must take into consideration if the door is going to hit anything when opening it too wide. My hinges open 170 degrees, but I really only needed 90 degrees, but had no choice. So, I have to be careful not to swing the door open with great enthusiasm or I might hit the adjacent mirror. But, that's not a prob. for me; I'm always conscientious about it and it doesn't swing wildly open anyway, it's on the "tight" side so I'd really have to PUSH it firmly to make it hit the other mirror. There are several co's, as I said, that make these extra tall versions - it's all about choosing the details that YOU want and need. Want the sides to have narrow mirror strips? You can do that too. Want lights surrounding it? Want an interior elec. outlet? It does become a little overwhelming - as usual, how far do you want to go and how much are you willing to spend?

Here is a link that might be useful: Pic of MY 34

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clipped on: 02.14.2011 at 08:55 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2011 at 08:56 pm

RE: A few questions about radiant heat (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: shaughnn on 02.06.2011 at 12:54 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hello again, Plumberry,
Were I installing a system in my own home, I'd probably consider the Suntouch system first, but not exclusively. I've found that it's probably the best *value*, with good response time and a good price. It's designed to perform at 12 watts per square foot, so that puts us in the 40BTU/ft2 range.
Shaughnn


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clipped on: 02.12.2011 at 02:04 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2011 at 02:04 pm

RE: A few questions about radiant heat (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: mongoct on 02.06.2011 at 09:41 am in Bathrooms Forum

There is one apples-to-apples comparison you can make when comparing one mat to another: its output in terms of BTU/h/sqft.

The higher the number, the faster the response time and the better the system will be able to heat your floor and possibly even take the chill out of the room.

Products offered today can vary from roughly 12 to over 40 BTU/h/sqft, so compare the specs when you shop. Most of the main manufacturers are up in the 12 watt/sqft (roughly 40BTU/h/sqft) range, which is the maximum allowed for an above-floor mat system. Cables can go about 25% higher. Underfloor systems are restricted to a lower value.

While most manufacturers don't rate their products as a primary heating system, and while most AHJs restrict systems like these resistance heating mats as being used as primary heating system in residential construction, you can sort of ballpark a mats capability by using 30BTU/h/sqft as a generic baseline number for average residential construction. Well below that number and it's sort of a cute boutique heating element. Approaching that number it'll warm your tile nicely. If it can output higher than that, you can have toasty floors and perhaps even a toasty room.

If a mat is rated in watts/sqft, multiply watts/sqft by 3.4 to get BTU/h/sqft. A mat rated at 10 watts/sqft would equate to 10 x 3.4 = 34BTU/h/sqft.

Radiantly, Mongo


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clipped on: 02.12.2011 at 02:03 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2011 at 02:04 pm

RE: What's in your baking zone? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: plllog on 02.09.2011 at 10:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

Search on Rhome410 and Buehl to see their baking areas. Or go to Rhome's blog, where she just did a couple of posts about reorganizing her baking center.

Mine is right next to my ovens and spice rack. I have the KA mixer in the corner and pull it out for use. Turns out I like using it on the diagonal. There's plenty of room elsewhere, but I like it. There's 4.5' of counter, including the corner. In the corner drawers under the mixer are my baking staples (flour, sugars, etc.). Measuring cups and mixer bowls and attachments are in the uppers to the right of the corner. There's a window between there and the ovens.

The top drawer under the baking counter (left of the corner) are wooden spoons and scrapers, scoops, a couple of table knives, mortars and pestles (2 small ones for herbs and spices), kitchen scale, parchment paper, rolling pin, bench knife/dough cutter, biscuit cutters, and some other things like that. Middle drawer has baking dishes, pie plates, etc., baking cloths, my 13 quart bread bowl. Bottom drawer has cake pans and mixing bowls. Baking trays live over the oven. Boards and cooling racks are on the other side of the island behind the baking area because that's where there was room. Prep sink is right behind.


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clipped on: 02.10.2011 at 09:22 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2011 at 09:22 pm

RE: Finished pics - Creamy white, stained island (Follow-Up #52)

posted by: marmoreus on 02.08.2011 at 05:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

Ok--I finally have some info on the woven wood shades. And I'll comment about the NXR after that if anyone wants info on the range.

The brand of the shades is Kirsch and I actually used two different styles/colors. In the dinette area the color is Mesa White. Everywhere else on our main floor we have Savannah Grasses Rice Straw. I am including a link to the website. You can click on the colors and see the differences. The ones in my dinette look more "grassy" to me up close and the others are a little more formal/classic looking if that makes sense. I really like both of them. They look great up and down. I had the light filtering liners added (not the room darkening ones) and for me, it's the perfect amount of light. I have one shade on our patio door that couldn't have the liner added because of the size and it lets in a little too much sun when we're eating our Cheerios! But it all depends on the direction your home faces and where the windows are. If I remember when it gets dark tonight, I'll take a picture of both kinds closer up.

As for the NXR range, I actually really wanted a Bluestar (lucky sparklekitty!) but to save money for other things, I decided on the NXR. It was a little scary buying it sight unseen (except for pictures), but I have been really happy with it. I took note of the comments about it's fit and finish not being as nice as other ranges, but to me it looks great. Maybe if I saw it side by side with a Wolf I'd notice it's deficiencies in the looks department, but as it is, I am very happy with it's form and function. I do have a few cleaning issues with it. I love how easy the stainless steel on top (under the grates) cleans up but there are some mystery grease/burned on marks around the burners that won't come clean. But otherwise, she cleans up real nicely and works well. I haven't used the oven all that much yet for baking but I like the broiler.

Hope this info helps!

Here is a link that might be useful: woven wood shades


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clipped on: 02.09.2011 at 07:04 am    last updated on: 02.09.2011 at 07:04 am

pics of woven wood shades (Follow-Up #56)

posted by: marmoreus on 02.08.2011 at 11:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

Oops! I also meant to post pictures of the window shades. The first two will be the Mesa White that are in my dinette area (and mudroom) and the next two are the Savanna Grasses Rice Straw that are elsewhere on the main floor.

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket


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clipped on: 02.09.2011 at 07:04 am    last updated on: 02.09.2011 at 07:04 am

RE: please help! pendant lights!!! (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: doonie on 01.23.2011 at 04:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

bh401, There is a way to post directly from the website that I copied from GW. (I don't remember who wrote this out...may have been Beuhl):

Go to the website, put your cursor on the photo and RIGHT click and a box will pop up.
LEFT click on VIEW IMAGE INFO

A box will appear with the line LOCATION: followed by that photo's location on the web starting with HTTP and ending with JPG.
Copy and paste the location into your post at GardenWeb.
Type in front of it "img src=" It will look like this:
img src=http and so on, ending with jpg
Then add carets <> at the beginning and end.

Preview the message and if you don't see the photo, something has gone wrong.

What I usually do is save the image to my computer then upload it to either tinypic or photobucket. Then I retrieve the code from there that says it's for a message board.

Babs, I would think any lighting store could order the LBL lights. I ordered mine through American Lighting. I am very happy with the quality and the light output for tasks.


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clipped on: 02.09.2011 at 06:56 am    last updated on: 02.09.2011 at 06:56 am

RE: Under sink trash pullout? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: morton5 on 11.10.2010 at 10:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have 8-gallon trash and recycling bins in pullouts under my prep sink. The cabs are Ikea, and I used the Ikeafans modification for my set-up. I also have a small disposal at this sink and a never-MT. We were able to fit it all because the GC flipped the orientation of the sink so that the rear drain is at the front. This allowed all of the plumbing to fit in a single plane. I love having trash and recycling by my prep area and do not find the placement under the sink to be inconvenient at all.
Photobucket
Photobucket
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clipped on: 02.08.2011 at 08:13 am    last updated on: 02.08.2011 at 08:13 am

ROLLIE's How clean is Too Clean, Part 3

posted by: angela12345 on 09.02.2010 at 05:04 pm in Building a Home Forum

This is a repeat post of one from several years back by a long time poster, builder, and gardenweb member: Rollie. I thought it was a brilliant idea and wanted to share with all you new builders . . .

2004 thread from the Internet Archive Wayback Machine - http://www.archive.org/web/web.php
http://web.archive.org/web/20041211181322/ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg1110381520518.html
I added pictures & some descriptions linked from Rollie's website "Delores House" http://imageevent.com/okoboji_images/deloreshouse

How clean is too clean, Part 2
Posted by Rollie (My Page) on Wed, Nov 3, 04 at 10:38

A while back, there was a post about how to clean the subfloors up after the construction was done, and how clean they needed to be before finished floors can be installed. There were lots of good posts, but it has dropped off of the page.

I took some early shots of a project, where I explained that we cover the subfloor with 30 lb felt paper before any framing occurs, then we frame on top of it, and cut it out after final painting is done. Here is a series of pictures that show a couple different stages, and how clean the floor is when we finally strip off the felt.

Framing on top of felt: 30 lb felt covering Advantech. Total time involved 1 1/2 hrs, 2 men. 1400sft, at 200sf per roll,= 7 rolls at $15.80 each = $115 total

After drywall and painting: As you can see, there is considerable dirt, dust, mud, drywall compound etc that collects on this membrane. All of this residue rolls up, is removed from the structure, and is thrown away, leaving the subfloor very clean.

Here you see some prep being done. The Roll-Lath is pulled up, and 90 % of the staples comes with it if you use 1/4 inch staple to hold it down. If you use anything longer, expect to spend time plucking staples and tabs of felt up from the floor. We cut around the perimeter, so we dont get tar marks on the wall when rolling it up. This is especially important when the walls are finish painted. (Usually, I wait till after the finish painting is done, but I couldnt do it in this situation of 3 pics below. Since we were going with infloor hydronic heat we needed to remove the felt protection, to install the wirsbo piping and the 1 1/2" gypcrete cover)

After removal of felt, ready for finish carpentry:

Make sure and run the staples parallel to the roll lath, and they will come up easier.

Note the staple lines: Use of 1/4 inch staples is recommended to eliminate the staples staying in the subfloor like shown in the last picture. 1/4 inch staples will roll right up with the two layers of felt. These guys did not have 1/4 in, and used 3/8 instead. Bad mistake, as they are now learning, as its a real PITA to remove the tabs of felt and staples left behind, although usually it only needs to be done where there is hard surface, and not carpet and pad.

The black marks on the subfloor is some of the asphalt base that leaches out into the subfloor and causes some discoloration.

RE: How clean is too clean, Part 2
Posted by: Rollie (My Page) on Sun, Nov 7, 04 at 23:42

We do felt on a slab also, but usually after framing, at which time you can usually use 15lb felt. I would advise against plastic, as it is too slippery when wet, and it will get wet. When felting a slab floor, we use duct tape to tape all of the seams, and then just roll up the complete mess and haul it out.
We have tried most methods, and have settled on this approach as the most bang for the buck. Covering multiple times is not cost effective, and never achieves the same results as covering before.

As far as cost is concerned, it takes considerably less time to cover a floor before the framing is done, and when the subfloor is new, as opposed to covering all the different rooms individually. Believe me, this approach has been looked at several times, and is considered to be the most cost effective in terms of return. I actually started doing this while building my own personal house, and have implemented it into the homes we build for customers. 15 lb felt does not have the lifespan to withstand the rigors of framing, subs, equipment, drywall and painting, 30 lb will, but like I said, make sure you use 1/4 inch legs on the staples.

Maybe its not for everyone, and I hope I dont come across that way, Only offering something different that works for me, and is appreciated by my customers.

THINGS I HAVE TO ADD : When Rollie first posted this thread, I think he was using 2 layers of 30#felt. But it sounds like from the Delores house descriptions (which he built in 2005) that he has changed to 1 layer ? An idea that I had and have no idea if this would work : since the felt leaves a little bit of stain on subfloor, maybe heavy brown contractor paper can be laid down and then felt on top of it. Another idea I had (for drywall only) - sweep subfloor & lay heavy brown contractor paper before drywallers. They leave an big mess which is tough to get off subfloor. - Angela

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clipped on: 02.08.2011 at 08:11 am    last updated on: 02.08.2011 at 08:11 am

RE: Some of the best advice from the braintrust on this forum (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: buehl on 02.05.2011 at 03:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

I don't know if you've read the "Read Me" thread, but the "Best Advice" and other, similar, threads are linked in it. They're located in the "Miscellaneous Information"-->"Helpful Threads" topic.

Here's your list, reformatted for ease of reading (see "Curious about text in messages (adding bold, italics, etc.)", also in the "Miscellaneous Information"-->"Helpful Threads" topic.)


++++++++++++


  • lay the kitchen out on the ground outside with all the measurements and walk around it to see if it felt right. I took my measurements and scraps of wood and laid them out in the various plans I had come up with.
  • check out the sound of the fan in the new ovens. I would have been pretty steamed to spend a bunch on a new range and have that sound come blaring out each time I used the oven.
  • putting Blumotion on the cabinet doors. This is my favorite feature in our kitchen and the cost was cheap to add these on after the cab install.
  • "zones" on this forum, and designed my kitchen around them, with a tremendous amount of help from my forum friends. In my old kitchen, the dishwasher opened across from the island (right into the backs of my legs). Now, the cleanup zone is on the peninsula, the prep area is between the fridge and sink, etc. It's really wonderful.
  • No air gap -- most modern dishwashers don't need them, so you don't have to have that extra unattractive "thing" on your countertop. Easy way around that if you need to pass code inspection is to drill the hole for air gap... pop it on for inspection and when they've gone take off the air gap and pop on your soap dispenser. Then put the loop in the hose at the back of your dishwasher...
  • Advantium
  • Miele dishwasher
  • Test tube rack for spice storage
  • Lay it out with tape to double check
  • advice for setting up a temp kitchen
  • Measure from 3 points wall to wall. Had I known this when we remodeled the entire house in 1990, I would now have the room to put in a pro-style range. As it is, I am exactly....1/4" short. Talk about frustrating! Our cabs are in great shape and I love them, but I'm stuck with the 29-7/8" width on the range.
  • I really like this that I stole from Dmlove--- I love not having all those cords on my desk/countertop! So best advice from this forum... details make the difference! for now my phone sits over the hole
  • pull down (rather than pull out or side spray) faucet
  • Bluestar, after asking about the best 30 inch slide-in range
  • batch-feed garbage disposals
  • adding outlets
  • Galaxy Tool Supply for our sink
  • Never MT
  • Plugmold
  • Wide/shallow cabinet for William Sonoma ultra-thin step stool.
  • Airswitch on disposal. Never minded the wall switch, but now that I have a nice backsplash and an island
  • Floodstop on icemaker and washing machine.
  • I put power into the back of 4 drawers, so each family member has a place to charge the cell phone (or camcorder or whatever) out of sight.
  • I also have a false panel behind a niche so that the power / wallwarts / phone wire / wireless access point is hidden. Only the phone sits out exposed. Similar to the idea above, but using depth.
  • Don't pack your booze prior to remodeling (this is VERY important! VERY IMPORTANT!)
  • Lacanche
  • caulk on change of planes verses grout...look at the underside of your cabinets
  • Plugmold for under the ends of my island so I didn't have to cut outlets into my beautiful cabinets
  • integrated drainboard cut into the countertop
  • raising the countertop for my wall oven - which gave me a bonus "standing desk" for my laptop
  • never thought I could get talked out of gas. So, that is the best advice so far
  • I'm a single sink convert, based solely upon the reviews on this website.
  • DH and I made a "never mt" out of tubing bought for $0.46 at Lowes. It's really not very exciting, though. It's clear tubing (like the kind you see on aquariums) attached to the bottom of the soap dispenser thing, and then extends down through the lid and into the bottom of the bottle of soap. (We just drilled a hole in the top of the bottle and shoved the tubing down.) So low tech! The tubing is something like $.23/ foot and we bought 2 feet. Super easy.
  • Landing space between appliances
  • Aisle clearances
  • Wait until its right - the right plan, the right time, the right appliances.
  • instant hot water heater
  • Getting a 36" range
  • baking center
  • online resources for sinks and faucets
  • the importance of putting functionality first in all design decisions
  • how to test granite for durability
  • remote blower for hood fan
  • single deep fireclay sink
  • lots of great online resources for sinks, faucets, etc
  • Never NEVER NEVER!!!! Leave your construction site to go on vacation ::scary music:: I MEAN NEVERRRRR!!!!!
  • the best (and most costly) is don't settle. You have to live with this kitchen for quite some time. Don't settle! (Even if that means you scrapped the cabinets today, called of the GC for 8 weeks while you order new ones, and you can't live in your home so you have to find somewhere else to live for three months). And maybe Santa won't know where you live!!!
  • Pegasus under-cabinet lighting here. Slim, good-looking, very energy-efficient, and reasonably priced.
  • I was convinced of the superiority of the Miele cutlery rack
  • do not rush..get a good plan in place. Pick what you love ..NOT what the designer loves
  • Brizo Floriano/pulldowns in general
  • xenon lighting
  • Venting
  • Tapmaster
  • take pictures of everything while your walls are open. It is very helpful to have that photographic record of where electric, pipes, studs etc. actually are. Also, plan for where you want to install pot/wall racks, shelf brackets, etc.--and add extra framing in the walls before they get closed up.
  • Get your floor plan right!
  • The Franke Orca sink ... to die for.
  • Inexpensive but quality Ticor sinks for laundry and prep.
  • Plugmold giving me a crisp, clean and outlet-free backsplash.
  • The personal, real life stories shared here gave me the confidence to push back at the stoneyard and insist on marble for my island. It pairs beautifully with the soapstone perimeter.
  • Bertazzoni range
  • White America Quartzite to go with SS
  • LED undercabinet lights
  • internet and eBay vendor recommendations
  • Hancock & Moore leather furniture (from GW furniture forum)
  • Microfiber cloths for cleaning SS and granite.
  • we had scaled drawings, pictures, and sketches taped to walls and cabinets all over the kitchen. A sketch of the island layout, a drawing with dimensions for light fixtures and switches, a sketch showing the spacing of shelves, a picture of how we wanted plugmold installed - you name it, we had it on a piece of paper and taped on a wall. When we would discuss anything with the electrician, plumber, etc., usually we would show them a drawing or sketch so they would know exactly what we were looking for. Then we would post it on the wall in the kitchen. It may have been slightly annoying to those working there, but it was amazing how much it helped. A number of times after someone screwed something up I would just point to a drawing and they would immediately have to take the blame and offer to fix it. There was never any chance to claim that we never told them or that we had said something else. It was right there on the wall the whole time.
  • undercounter light switch for undercounter lights
  • tilt-out shoe storage cabinet
  • Get hardwoods instead of laminate. Once I investigated I couldn't believe at how little difference in cost between the two (good decent laminate vs. hardwood)
  • This is AWESOME! I now have a list of things I had never even heard of to check on...and I thought I was on top of things!
  • posters here are willing to share their good and bad experiences so that newbies like me can have a smoother reno.
  • Something that I'm slowly realizing as I continue to read the posts here is that, despite the best of planning, something (or things) likely will not go as planned.
  • Buy appliances available locally (so service is available), from retailers who will actually stand behind the sale instead of shifting all blame and responsibility to the manufacturer - even when they shipped a defective product. Just finished reading a long thread about someone that bought from an internet retailer, and it was shocking to see the attitude of the retailer. Forget the pre sale promises and assurances from some of these disreputable internet companies who won't be there if you have a problem and just get them locally. No small percentage of savings is worth it if you end up with a defective product shipped and the retailer says it isn't his problem. If you must buy via internet, make sure you get in writing that the product will be shipped defect-free and if there's anything wrong with the unit at all - IMMEDIATELY contest the charge with your credit card company. Don't rely on promises that a minor (or major) problem will be promptly repaired by a service company.
  • learning all the lingo was great. When the contractor asked if I wanted plugmold I didn't go "huh?" I think by being knowledgeable before talking to the contractor it helps a lot.
  • Knobs vs. Pulls. There have been several discussions of knobs vs. pulls. Some comments:
  • Knobs on base cabinets can catch on clothing (and rip sometimes).
  • Cabinets/drawers w/pulls can usually be opened w/one finger...even the pinky finger.
  • Susan Jablon glass tile. Everyone who comes in my house walks up to my backsplash and has to touch it. I had just about given up the idea of a glass tile backsplash before finding out about her site on this forum. The price of her tile, even with shipping, was about half of what I could have bought it for locally and it is gorgeous!
  • No sockets/switches in backsplash (under cabinet plug strip)
  • Toe kick on trash pop out BUT... ADD a second spring to add power to the pop (thank you for whoever mentioned this ingenious bit of info)
  • Double layered cutlery drawer (secret drawer within a drawer)
  • What to look for when choosing undercabinet lighting eg... reflection, spread of light, color of light, heat...
  • Benefits of a large farmhouse sink
  • Miele dishwasher
  • superb
  • Thermador cooktop and all the controversy about the popup draft and how I could get away with not having one. THANK YOU!
  • Miele warming drawer FANTASTIC and thank you for making me realize that it doesn't have to be on the floor under the oven!!!
  • PLAN YOUR STORAGE SPACE. measure boxes, measure food processor, mixer, stack of plates etc. etc. then make a note of contents in the drawers or cupboards on your plans or diagrams or in your notes.
  • Plug strip under center island.
  • YOU ARE NOT ALONE- PEOPLE WHO CARE ABOUT YOUR CD FRIDGE ARE HERE TO HELP YOU and it's OK to really take your time with your decisions
  • Orca single sink
  • Pot rack in upper cabinet (I think this idea was from loves2cookfor6??)
  • Electrical outlet inside a drawer for a charging station
  • filling in the gap between the fridge and the cupboard above it with some leftover filler and a piano hinge. Cambro...where did you see this idea? Just yesterday we discovered that we might have a significant gap b/w the top of the refrigerator & the bottom of the cabinet above. Our contractor is just going to use filler to hide the gap, but if we put it on hinges it would actually become usable space!
  • knife drawer (I hated that block)
  • gel stain
  • Getting rid of my ugly phone jack and getting a phone that doesn't need one!
  • How to get rid of the drip inside my oven door - with a hanger and a sock going up through the holes at the bottom of the door. Worked like a charm!
  • Get a spine when talking to GC about his version vs. my version of cleaning up the jobsite each day (aka our home).
  • Use masking tape and a measuring tape and make a mock up of where your new cabinets will go. This is a biggie!
  • Dimmer switches! I put them on ALL of the new lighting, including the patio lights adjacent, and have not regretted it once.
  • how great Silgranit sinks are to live with. Never even heard of one before GW.
  • Buying Sources
    • Ticor sinks: Ticor Sinks at Galaxy Tool Supply: http://www.galaxytoolsupply.com/category_s/58.htm
    • Tapmaster: http://www.tapmaster.ca/
    • Never-MT: Never-MT: http://custominserts-store.stores.yahoo.net/nevsoapandlo.html
    • Pop up Outlets: Popup Mocketts: http://www.mockett.com/default.asp?ID=469
    • Plugmold Power Strips: http://www.wiremold.com/www/consumer/products/plugmold.asp
    • Angle Powerstrip: http://www.tasklighting.com/ap/angle-strip.htm

  • Our Vac Pan. Ours is hooked up to a wet/dry vac in the basement because we do not have central vac. The idea came from this forum and our electrician and contractor figured out how to make it happen.
  • DIY on gel stain. Thanks Celticmoon and Projectsneverend.
  • Soapstone, getting it, finding the right fabricator right here, and caring for it
  • where to find a deal on saddle stools
  • Kohler Vinnata
  • Not to put my cooktop on my island.
  • best advice I got was around my budget and how to make the hard decisions on what should stay in and what should go (that was from Buehl).
  • What is not that important to me and doesn't add functionality? [Candidate for elimination altogether]
  • What can I do at a later date? [Candidate for deferring until a later date]
  • What can't be done at a later date and I can't live without? [Candidate for keeping and doing now]
  • This forum helped me see which terms are worth using, and which can be saved for later. This forum helped me get clearer communication going. Resistance could be expressed when I raised ideas; it all helped to refine the concept.
  • This forum helped me justify personal innovations. This forum confirmed ideas.
  • Tweaking and innovating. I tweaked everything in my kitchen along the way.
  • I don't know if I would have a remodeled kitchen if it weren't for this forum. I would have still been looking at the dreadful old one wishing it was nice and not knowing how to get it nice. Even the ideas & photos of things I didn't want for me helped to define what I did want.
  • I have to give credit to my carpenter, too. There was a time when his eyes rolled when I said, "but the people on the kitchen forum say......." But I had photos and conversations printed off to show him what I meant.
  • Lisalists organized drawers where the dividers go from front to back or side to side so you don't have to nest objects-and you can fit so much stuff in. Easy, easy access. No nesting. Yay
  • Layout, efficiency. This has to be the most important thing I've been learning here. What tasks do you perform, what zones will you organize them in, what items do you need close at hand in each zone, how does traffic between and through zones flow. etc.
  • Styles, materials, looks. People here have great ''eyes'' for style and looks. My eyes have been opened to these looks, and I've learned the vocabulary to describe them.
  • Specific ideas/features I learned about here that seem like they'll be useful: prep sinks, base cabinet drawers, counter top materials other than granite, true convection ovens, unfitted kitchens, under-counter refrigeration.
  • Many things, one of which is using a 13-15" depth cabinet for inset cabinets, as 12 is not sufficient.
  • Carefully placing all the appliances and storage thinking about what you use with what. For example, I moved the microwave to be next to the refrigerator because we use it mostly for reheating leftovers. I have fridge, prep sink, prep area, range, more prep area on one side and on the other I have prep area/ landing zone (across from fridge), main sink, prep area / dishwasher (across from range, but offset so both people can work) in the island.

Here is a link that might be useful: Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens!


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clipped on: 02.08.2011 at 07:52 am    last updated on: 02.08.2011 at 07:52 am

RE: Show off Your Counter Stools! (please;) (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: buehl on 01.31.2011 at 12:46 am in Kitchens Forum

Here are mine...Village from JC Penney:

Village Barstool in Cherry from JC Penney Photobucket

You can see them at the peninsula (the DR furniture is old; the table & chairs have since been replaced)

Entire Kitchen, view from FR


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clipped on: 02.02.2011 at 06:51 am    last updated on: 02.02.2011 at 06:52 am

RE: Our New Catarina Coliseum White tile (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: gary1227 on 02.25.2009 at 05:05 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Thanks all for the compliments. We are very happy with the outcome of our master bath.

We paid $2.20sqft. for both the wall and floor tiles. Compared to about $10 a sqft for real marble, the faux product is quite a bargain.

We paid $7.50 per 12inch piece for the Carrera marble chair rails. I think I paid almost as much for the accent pieces as I did for all the tile.

The vanity is Kraftmaid in maple with dove white paint.

Our shower is approximately 3'x5'


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clipped on: 02.01.2011 at 08:16 am    last updated on: 02.01.2011 at 08:16 am

Our New Catarina Coliseum White tile

posted by: gary1227 on 02.25.2009 at 12:02 am in Bathrooms Forum

We are just about to wrap our new construction build and our new master bath has turned out beautifully using the American Olean Catarina Coliseum white tiles.

We wanted the look of marble without the maintenance issues of real stone and we are very happy with this porcelain and ceramic product.

Here are are a few photos:

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Materials used:

Floor Tile: AO Catarina Coliseum White Porcelain Matt Finish 12x12 Tiles

Wall Tile: AO Catarina Coliseum White Ceramic Polished 8x10 Tiles

Accent Tile: White Carrara Marble 12" Chair Rail

Vanity countertops and shower wall ledges: Caeserstone "Pebble" in polished finish

Faucets/Shower Heads: Danze

Shower Control: Hans Grohe

Hardware/Towel Bars/Lighting: Restoration Hardware

Tub: Toto 6ft AirJet Tub

Toilet: Toto

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clipped on: 02.01.2011 at 08:14 am    last updated on: 02.01.2011 at 08:14 am

How do my choices look so far???

posted by: kngwd on 01.30.2011 at 07:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have gotten so much great info on this site!! I have been lurking for a while, posting only recently, and adding to my idea file. We are just about ready to get things started, so I'd like some feedback on what I have so far. I know what I like, but I'm not so great at making sure it all goes together!
The rest of my 1st floor has red oak floors with a natural finish, so we are going to extend those into the kitchen/family room.
I'm borrowing one of craftlady07's pix to show my cabs. My are this color, hardware will be almost the same as well, but mine will be raised panel, not inset.
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The tentative granite selection - Santa Cecilia
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Pendants (2 over the peninsula, 1 over the sink - these I copied form irishcreamgirl!)
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Chandelier for over table
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I think I've decided on the Kraus SS apron front sink - fireclay isn't in the budget. Do you think this sink will go with the rest of the kitchen? I'm afraid it might be too contemporary looking, but I really like the apron fronts! All the appliances will be SS.

Opinions? What have I forgotten??? Oh, and the adjoining hallway and dining room are painted sage green - any suggestions for a complimentary color for the kitchen/family room space?

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clipped on: 01.31.2011 at 08:55 pm    last updated on: 01.31.2011 at 08:55 pm

RE: red cherry kitchens with light countertops (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: riverspots on 04.01.2010 at 07:34 am in Kitchens Forum

Here's my new Solarius counters on existing medium cherry cabinets.
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clipped on: 01.30.2011 at 10:10 am    last updated on: 01.30.2011 at 10:10 am

RE: Got my backsplash after almost 18 months! (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: ni_2006 on 12.17.2009 at 07:04 am in Kitchens Forum

Boysrus2 - I love your granite! That island is to die for! I would love to see pictures of the Rixi Mandorla tiles with your granite. Did you ever consider the Noce and Dore colors? I think they would have also worked nicely with your granite.

mybrowneyedgirls - I got my tiles from Best Tiles locally. They were very happy to give samples for free, unlike a few tile places that were very stingy with their samples. So, definitely get in touch with the place Boysrus2 recommended!

By the way, here are all the available colors to help you decide on the tile samples to get.

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clipped on: 01.30.2011 at 09:47 am    last updated on: 01.30.2011 at 09:48 am

RE: Got my backsplash after almost 18 months! (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: ni_2006 on 12.16.2009 at 04:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all the nice compliments!

remodelfla (a.k.a the backsplash guru) - I am pleased to hear that you like all the elements! How is your remodeling coming along?

onelady1dog2girls - there have been a few people on GW (becktheeng, roulie - I think) who've used Rixi tiles. These crackle tiles are not too expensive (about $12 sq/ft) and come in 2.5 x 5 size, which I love! The surface of the tiles has a nice glass-like crackle to them.

lagrant - I called up a few marble fabricators to see if they had remnants of honed calacatta marble and got some pricing. (The price ranged from $90 to $160, so I chose to the $90 fabricator!) I then made my own template (hurray!) of the shelf using a piece of cardboard and took it to the fabricators. It took them about 1 hour to get the piece ready for me to pick up. My suggestion is to call around local fabricators and see what they have available. It might end up being cheaper than buying a box of large tiles.

mairin - thanks! By the way, I just saw a picture of your sweet little boy in the sink. Oh I love him! Congratulations!!

mybrowneyedgirls - the Mandorla color is kind of grayish/taupe (with a hint of green), depending on the type of light in the room. The kitchen does not get a ton of sunshine, but if it did, the tile would look lighter than it does in the pictures. There is some slight variability from one tile to another.

traci29 - I can't thank you enough...I couldn't have done this without your marble tiles! I promise that I did not laugh at the shoe box :)

skoo - please post pictures of your recess when it is done. I can't wait to see how yours turned out!

prill - thanks! I am so ready to be done with this remodel and I feel like a big weight has been lifted off my shoulder. Now time to pick the *right* paint color...

I am posting pictures of the grouted backsplash...enjoy...

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clipped on: 01.30.2011 at 09:42 am    last updated on: 01.30.2011 at 09:42 am

RE: Show me your Stained Wood Cabinets with Wood Floors (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: mairin on 07.07.2009 at 02:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's ours: java stained walnut with Cumaru floors (natural)


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clipped on: 01.29.2011 at 05:06 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2011 at 05:06 pm

RE: Show me your Stained Wood Cabinets with Wood Floors (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ccoombs1 on 07.07.2009 at 08:18 am in Kitchens Forum

I have unstained Quartersawn white oak floors (finished with waterlox so they do have an amber color) and stained red oak cabinets. I love the contrast!

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clipped on: 01.29.2011 at 05:04 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2011 at 05:04 pm

finished! Vintage Cream in the City

posted by: shanghaimom on 05.01.2010 at 09:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all,

We are finally finished with our kitchen remodel of our 1889 home. I have been a daily (truthfully, sometimes HOURLY) lurker and sporadic poster for almost two years. There is NO WAY I could have planned this remodel without the help of GW--We were living in China for over 5 years and I had to do all of my planning from there. This meant NO MAGAZINES, nor could I visit showrooms and see anything in person. Every time I had a question, I seemed to be able to find a thread about it. Not to mention all of the inspirational photos!!! I was so afraid of missing an important tidbit! (We were 13 hours ahead there, so I could easily miss a thread as it fell off onto pages two, three, four...)

Anyway, many thanks to all of the great TKO people who contribute to this forum.

Photos first! Details at the end. (o:

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

pass-thru detail
Berta!
kit

cabinetry--local custom painted in BM Bone White oil-based enamel
walls-- BM Ballet White
counters--Zodiaq quartz Mystic Black (kind of a charcoal color)
pulls--Amerock Revitalize in Burnished Bronze
sink--Ticor zero-radius SS508
faucet--Kohler Vinnata in Vibrant Polished Nickel
range-36" Bertazzoni Heritage Series in Anthracite
hood- Vent-A-Hood NPH9-136
backsplash- 3" hexagonal Calcatta marble
pendants--Hinckley Knickerbocker (these are on clearance all over for a song right now...)
windows--Marvin double-hung cottage style

NOTES:

Amerock pulls
clipped on: 01.14.2011 at 06:14 am    last updated on: 01.14.2011 at 06:15 am

RE: After Market Cabinet Organizers? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: staceyneil on 01.13.2011 at 10:11 am in Kitchens Forum

I used bamboo boxes from various sources (Target, Lowes, etc) because I didn't want to lose the lovely effect of my new all-wood drawers :) I lined all the drawers with thin cork for the same reason.

The non-adjustable type are deeper, so I used those where possible, filling in with adjustable (sliding compartment) ones to make it all fit well. I bought about 12 different sizes, figured out the puzzle (without opening the packaging) and returned the ones I didn't need.

*** I know I should not have my knives in there! We keep meaning to put up the knife rack, but haven't gotten around to it yet. Poor abused knives ;)

Caveat about using Ikea cabinet innards: Measure carefully!!! The inside dimensions of Ikea cabs tend to be slightly different than American made (they're metric). I thought I would save a ton of money by not getting pull-out shelves/roll-trays in one base cabinet, and adding Ikea ones later. I had had the Ikea ones, in Ikea cabs, in my last house and loved them. However, they required shimming out with washers and stuff to fit a cabinet that was supposed to be the same size (21") because the wall thicknesses were different. They have NEVER worked properly and at some point I need to replace them with the much-more-expensive Rev A Shelf ones. :(


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clipped on: 01.13.2011 at 08:24 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2011 at 08:24 pm

RE: After Market Cabinet Organizers? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: loves2cook4six on 01.12.2011 at 11:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

For drawers custom make your own dividers to fit using drawer Dividers and 1/4" plywood. Any lumber store can cut it into 3" wide strips and you can use a small handsaw to cut them to length.

These are mine and total cost for the entire drawer was under $20

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The best thing about doing it yourself is that it is very custom and there is no wasted space at all.

Here is a link that might be useful: Lee Valley Drawer dividers


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clipped on: 01.13.2011 at 08:21 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2011 at 08:21 pm

RE: Dilemma about cabinets...Please help me...Lots of questions (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: pudgybaby on 01.12.2011 at 08:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am replying partly to bump this and partly to share my experience. We went with custom frameless cabinets and we are very pleased. With your limited storage, I think you should definitely do frameless cabinets. Frameless cabinets give you more width in each drawer and more height, and it really makes a difference. I would get the inside drawer dimensions for both brands of cabinets, including usable height, if you haven't already. I think you will like the deeper drawer depth that the custom maker is offering. My base cabinets are the standard 24 inch depth, but I have drawers as large as 48 inches wide, and love them. The space is much more useable in larger drawers.

I am not sure of the sink base width. Do you know which sink you are getting? I think the standard sink base is 36 inches wide, but you can certainly go smaller. However, you will limit the sinks that you can choose from.

I would also get uppers that are deeper than the standard 12 inches if you go with the custom cabinets, especially since you will have deeper counter tops. This is often recommended on this site. Mine vary, but are mostly 14 inches deep.

Are you getting a cab over the fridge? I store trays, flat pans, cutting boards, and other flat things there. I love it. It's not too hard to reach the things in this cabinet since you only have to grab the bottom corner.

One last thing: I think you should shop around a bit more and include local cabinet makers. 10k seems high for 4 base cabinets and 5 uppers, but maybe I am missing something or maybe you have lots of fancy cabinet accessories. I am posting my layout and a couple of elevations, just to show you what I got for that 14k. I went with 3/4 inch furniture grade particle board, stained cherry, trash pullout, oil/vinegar pullout, 3 rollouts in the pantry with drawers on the bottom, a super susan corner for 14k, and all other base cabs drawers except sink and one other (a total of 20 drawers). Your custom drawers are deeper, though, and I have no idea how that affects the cost. And maybe your quotes are for a painted finish?

cabinet plan

fridge wall

sink wall

Good luck!


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clipped on: 01.13.2011 at 06:48 pm    last updated on: 01.13.2011 at 06:50 pm

RE: Window in MBR Closet? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: worthy on 01.12.2011 at 06:09 pm in Building a Home Forum

Keep the clothes or the window covered.

On the other hand, I have pics of recent multi-million dollar homes where the trend seems to be skylights. Maybe the thinking is if you have to worry about replacing ruined clothes you're just not rich enough to own such a house.

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Skylight floods closet with "natural light". My, what an exciting suit collection: Every colour in the rainbow as long as it's beige! Source: Prince Bay Homes


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clipped on: 01.13.2011 at 07:45 am    last updated on: 01.13.2011 at 07:46 am

RE: Pictures of wood kitchens please! (Follow-Up #52)

posted by: salmon_slayer on 11.20.2010 at 10:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

another:

cherry cabinets/island with glazing. Quartzite counter tops

From finished kitchen

From finished kitchen

Here is a link that might be useful: finished kitchen


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quartzite
clipped on: 01.12.2011 at 08:55 pm    last updated on: 01.12.2011 at 08:55 pm

RE: Refrigerator -- cabinets over it or not? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: zelmar on 01.11.2011 at 05:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

It's a great place for vertical storage. I've loved the vertical storage above our fridge so much that we plan to convert the top shelf of our tall baking cabinet to vertical storage. It's much easier accessing items up high when they are stored vertically than when they are piled on a shelf.

You should search out pictures of buehl's kitchen to see great storage ideas.

Here's the storage above our counterdepth fridge.

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DH recently (last week) modified the vertical storage to add the horizontal shelf. I have several items that are just too bulky and too little used to justify taking up the better storage spots in the kitchen. I hadn't yet put them on the shelf when the photo was taken.

This is how the storage looked before the modification. I use the pyrex bakers a lot and they are very easy to get since nothing has to be unpiled to get at them.

tv cabinet


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clipped on: 01.11.2011 at 06:53 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2011 at 06:53 pm

RE: where's your microwave--pix requested (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: jtsgranite4us on 10.12.2008 at 08:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

Ours is in the cabinet for our built-in refridgerator.

microwave with pullout shelf

Our toaster oven is in the other side:

Built-in Refridgerator


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clipped on: 12.22.2010 at 07:28 am    last updated on: 12.22.2010 at 07:28 am

RE: where's your microwave--pix requested (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: mustbnuts on 10.14.2008 at 08:42 am in Kitchens Forum

Mine hangs from the cabinet over the counter. edging on granite--bookend

Looking at cabs to the left of the sink

Not the best pictures in the world but you get the idea. There are lights underneith (built into the micro) for lighting the cabs/counters.

P3Shawn2--what is that gorgeous granite? It is stunning!

JDayo--are those bamboo cabinets? They are beautiful!

I am loving everyone's kitchen. Just beautiful!


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clipped on: 12.22.2010 at 07:24 am    last updated on: 12.22.2010 at 07:25 am

RE: where's your microwave--pix requested (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: mustbnuts on 10.14.2008 at 10:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

Mine is a Sharp. I think the model number is mc r1214 but don't quote me on it! Here is a picture again--not my kitchen however

micro--stainless--


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clipped on: 12.22.2010 at 07:22 am    last updated on: 12.22.2010 at 07:22 am

RE: where's your microwave--pix requested (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: mdmc on 10.26.2008 at 06:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's mine
Sub zero


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clipped on: 12.22.2010 at 07:21 am    last updated on: 12.22.2010 at 07:21 am

RE: where's your microwave--pix requested (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: linnymac on 10.12.2008 at 11:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

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Mine is next to appliance cabinet.


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clipped on: 12.22.2010 at 07:13 am    last updated on: 12.22.2010 at 07:13 am

RE: where's your microwave--pix requested (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: jackiemcg on 10.12.2008 at 12:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have mine next to the wall ovens. It is not built in but looks like it is. Here is a picture

Ovens


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clipped on: 12.22.2010 at 07:08 am    last updated on: 12.22.2010 at 07:08 am

RE: Anyone have a microwave mounted under their wall cabinet? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: lishaana on 01.20.2008 at 12:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here is our Advantium MW mounted over the counter. We bumped out the cabinet surrounding it. We also lowered it a bit so it wouldn't be mounted so high (it has a door that opens down rather than to the side)

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clipped on: 12.22.2010 at 07:06 am    last updated on: 12.22.2010 at 07:06 am

RE: Anyone have a microwave mounted under their wall cabinet? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: theresab1 on 01.19.2008 at 04:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

mine is a ge that came with a mounting kit that we installed over a countertop- here is a pic:

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clipped on: 12.22.2010 at 07:02 am    last updated on: 12.22.2010 at 07:03 am

RE: Cabinet size for Sharp 24' drawer microwave??? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: buehl on 08.01.2009 at 04:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

My 30" Sharp MW Drawer is in a 31" cabinet. However, I checked the Sharp site and under "Downloads" found that you can indeed install a 24" MW Drawer in a 24" cabinet...there are two documents that might help you, depending on your cabinet type: framed or frameless (IIRC, you're going w/framed, correct?)

Installation Tips: 24" in 24" Face Frame Cabinet:
http://www.sharpusa.com/files/mdo_dow_TIP_24-n-24_face_frame.pdf

Installation Tips: 24" in 24" Frameless Cabinet:
http://www.sharpusa.com/files/mdo_dow_TIP_24-n-24_frameless.pdf

Sharp Downloads for Microwave Drawers:
http://www.sharpusa.com/products/TypeDownloads/0,1087,216,00.html


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clipped on: 12.22.2010 at 06:49 am    last updated on: 12.22.2010 at 06:49 am

Calculating Window Height (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: buehl on 02.10.2009 at 03:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

We went through this for our window. We had a bay window that was only 22" above the floor. We raised it so we could put our counter into the bay and up to the sill as well. The two side windows open, the middle window does not. It is difficult and you may or may not get it exact...err on the side of slightly higher than lower, though, b/c you can have a very short sill (~1/4" or so) and still have the same look.

Besides being sure your window is at the right height, be sure you can open the window (if it will open).

  • Get a casement window (crank open rather than lift up to open) b/c trying to open a window when leaning over a counter can be a "stretch" :-)

  • Be sure you have enough room b/w the counter and the crank so you can turn the crank w/o running into the counter

Usually, the window should be 36" off the finished floor. The height of the window itself is up to you...do you want it almost to the ceiling or a different height? In our case, we were constrained by the fact that our bay was an actual bump-out of the house so we were limited to the height of the bump-out...14" lower than our 8' ceilings.

OK...this is what you have to do...

  1. First, are you replacing your current floor? If so, will it be before or after you put in the window?

    • If before, you need to know the thickness of the floor and the materials used to put in the floor.

      E.g., our tile floor went in after our window. So, we had to know how thick the tile was (3/8") + thickness of thinset + subfloor (if new subfloor will be put down).

      Then, we had to subtract the thickness of the vinyl that was still in place but was going to be taken out later (1/4")

    • If the window will be going in after the new floor is installed or you are not replacing the floor, you can skip this step.

  2. Next, find out the height of your cabinets themselves. Most are 34-1/2" high. But, if you have raised or lowered your counters you will have a different height.

  3. Now, determine the thickness of your countertop material.

    • If granite, is it 2cm or 3cm? Generally (in USA), the west coast has 2cm and the rest of the country has 3cm. (2.54 cm = 1 in)

    • If 2cm, you will need to know the thickness of your plywood subtop.

  4. Add these numbers together and that's how high off the floor you will need to place your window. And, like I said before, it's better to err on the side of too high than too low.


HTH!


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clipped on: 12.21.2010 at 11:12 pm    last updated on: 12.21.2010 at 11:12 pm