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RE: Painting Kitchen Cabinets (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: funcolors on 12.05.2010 at 06:00 pm in Paint Forum

This a link to Michael's (known as brushworks here on GW) step-by-step cabinet painting process.

Here is a link that might be useful: Brushworks' Cabinet Painting How-To

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clipped on: 02.22.2013 at 01:27 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2013 at 01:27 pm

Porcelain tiles that look like wood

posted by: catlover5 on 03.25.2012 at 09:04 am in Flooring Forum

Does anyone have any experience and/or photos of the porcelain or ceramic tile that looks like wood in their kitchen? Wanted to install hardwood in kitchen but DH is dead set against it and I do understand why but the room is adjacent to the dining room and I think it may be silly to install a wood look floor right next to the real thing . . . we have a very neutral 12x12 ceramic floor now but due to a change in layout, we need more tiles which have since been discontinued and PO left us with 1 tile, not enough.

Was browsing all day yesterday at any store that sells flooring in the neighborhood. Saw Florida Tile in two places that I really liked, also saw Daltile which was okay and a 3rd wood look tile that I didn't like at all and was chipped in the showroom.

On the other hand, if we decided not to go with a wood look, I really don't know what to put down. Seems silly to tear up a perfectly good floor only to put down something so similar.

Was also toying with adding an electric radiant heat pad but are definitely adding a toe kick heater tied into our gas hot water system.

Home is 1940s cape cod cottage with original hardwood floors. Putting in dove white maple wood cabs with white appliances and either a gold color granite such as New Venetian Gold or Giallo something or a dark green granite, Pavao or Green Butterfly. Kitchen is very tiny, 110x101, and high traffic as that's where the sliding door to the backyard is. We have a 125 lb dog and several pussycats with claws.

TIA for any comments or suggestions.

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clipped on: 02.19.2013 at 03:08 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2013 at 03:09 pm

RE: Please post pictures of your counter-tops (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: senator13 on 11.01.2011 at 10:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

Circus has copper. They are BEAUTIFUL!

I have Arborite (laminate) counters in the Black Grit pattern

From Finished counter

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clipped on: 02.18.2013 at 03:18 pm    last updated on: 02.18.2013 at 03:18 pm

RE: All gel stainers--foam brush, rag, or reg brush? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: celticmoon on 07.02.2012 at 12:04 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I did my (large) kitchen years ago and used old cotton athletic socks. Plastic glove, then the sock over it like a mitten. Scoop out a gob and wipe on. Repeat.

I wrote the following detailed 'how to' for the Kitchen Forum. Ignore the kitchen specific content. The rest may help.

SHOPPING LIST:
-electric screwdriver or screw drill bits
-mineral spirits to clean the years of gunk off the cabinet
-miracle cloths (optional)
-fine sandpaper
-box-o-disposable gloves from Walgreen�s or the like
-old socks or rags for wiping on coats
-disposable small plastic bowls or plates, and plastic spoons or forks for stirring/dipping (optional)
-General Finishes water base Espresso stain (pretty thick, but not quite a gel) NOTE: This one may not even be a needed step if the Java gets it dark enough.
-General Finishes Java gel stain (poly based)
-General Finishes clear top coat (poly based)
-old sheets or plastic sheeting or newspaper

Rockler woodworking stores are a good place to find the General Finish products. Or some larger hardware stores. Quart of each was more than enough for my 60 doors and drawer fronts and goes for $12-14 at Rockler. There are smaller sizes if your project is small.

SETUP AND PLANNING:
You will need a place to work and leave wet doors to dry overnight - I set up 2 spaces: garage for sanding/cleaning and basement for staining/sealing. Use newspaper or plastic to protect the surface and floor. Figure out how you will prop doors to dry. Plan blocks of 20-30-minutes for sanding/cleaning bundles of, say, 6 doors at a time. Then just 10-minute sessions to wipe on coats. The coats will need to dry for about 24 hours, so figure that each section of the kitchen will be doorless for 4 or 5 days. Divide the job up into manageable chunks.

PREPARATION:
Take off doors and drawer fronts. Try using screw drill bits on an electric drill if you don't have an electric screwdriver. Remove all the hardware. *Mark alike things so you know what goes back where.* Clean the doors thoroughly. Not with TSP but with something pretty strong and scrub well. There's years of grease there.
Sand LIGHTLY, just a scuffing really. Just enough to break the finish and give it some tooth, no more than a minute a door. A miracle cloth is good for getting most of the dust off. Then wipe well with mineral spirits to clean and get the last of the gunk off.

STAINING:
In order, we're gonna put on:
-General Finishes Espresso water based stain (1 coat) - optional
-General Finishes Java gel stain (couple coats)
-General Finishes Clear urethane gel topcoat in satin (couple coats)

But first put on work clothes, tie up your hair and pop your phone into a baggie nearby (you know it will ring). Glove up.
***First do a trial on the back of a door and check if Java coats alone suffice. If the Java alone is to your liking, just skip the Espresso and return it.

Open and stir up the Espresso stain, then spoon some into a plastic bowl. Close the tin so it doesn't get contaminated. Slide a sock over your hand, grab a gob of Espresso and smear it on. Wipe off the excess. Let it dry well - overnight is good. It will lighten as it dries, but then darken again with any other coat or sealer. A second coat might result in a deeper tone at the end - though it seemed like the second coat was just dissolving the first. YMMV.

Repeat with Java gel. This is thicker and poly based (*not water cleanup!*= messier). Color is a rich dark reddish brown. Wait for the second coat to judge if the color is deep enough for you. I wanted a very deep dark color, like melted dark chocolate. So I went pretty heavy on these layers. I did not sand between coats.
Repeat with clear gel topcoat. This will give you the strength you need in a kitchen.

Do the same process with the cabinet sides, face and toe kick area. Might need to divide that up also, and stagger the work: doors/cabinets/doors/etc.

NOTE: The cloth or socks used for the gels are very flammable! Collect and store them in a bucket of water as you go and then dispose of them all properly.

FINISHING AND REASSEMBLY:
I suggest you put the doors back up after one clear coat, then you can check everything over and darken an area with more Java if needed, followed by a clear coat. When it all looks right, go over it all again with another clear gel coat. Or two. (See my follow up notes below). Install your hardware.
The feel of the finish should be wonderful, really smooth and satiny. Color deep and rich - way nicer than that faded, beat 80's oak color.

FINAL THOUGHTS:
Definitely experiment first with the back of a door or drawer front to be sure it is the look you want. Yes, this takes a couple days to coat, dry, recoat, dry, etc but you may discover that the Java alone does the trick and this will save you a LOT of work. Front-end patience is worth it.

This is a pretty easy project to do. Hard to screw it up. The worst is the prep - relative to that, smearing on the coats is cake. I had over 60 pieces (big kitchen) AND island sides and book shelves, etc and I admit I lost steam partway through. Had to push myself through the last of it. But it was worth it. Folks think I got all new cabinets - it looks that good.

Now the finish will not be as durable as factory finish - go at it with a Brillo pad and you WILL abrade it. But it has held up pretty well. And after a year of pretty heavy use, I had just a few nicks, easily repaired.
(6/08 Add: I'm now (18 months later) seeing some wear near the pulls on the most used cabinets. Will add color with Java if it bugs me.)
(9/09 Add: Never did bother to touch up those couple spots. Bugging me a bit more, and I will get to it soon. It is the drinking glass cabinet and the snack cabinet, LOL. And the garbage pull-out. The rest still looks perfect. Lesson: Use an extra coat or 2 of gel on the way frequently used cabinets.)
(12/09 Add: I did finally touch up the spots that were worn. Used just Java to get the color right, then a bunch of top coats. Looks perfect again.)
(7/2010 Add: Still looking great)
(12/2010 Add: Replicated the staining process with LR entertainment wall cabinetry, some recycled and some new build, to house new flat screen (different shape than 15 yr old TV)... again very happy with the clean contemporary look vs old early 80s look. Guess bathrooms are next...)
(7/2012 All still good. Some wear again on two spots: snack cabinet and cup/glass cabinet near the pulls. Will touch up when I get to it.)

I added smashing hardware, raised my pass-through, resurfaced the Corian (also simple but messy and tedious) and replaced the DW and sink. It looks gorgeous to me and I really enjoy the space - how it sits all quiet, clean and serene, then gets all crazy with the food and folks du jour. I couldn't be happier, especially that I didn't have to work another year just to pay for the update!!

Link to cabinets in progress: http://photobucket.com/albums/b45/celticm00n/kitchen cosmetic update project/kitchen during/

Link to almost finished cabinet pix: http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b45/celticm00n/kitchen cosmetic update project/finished bit by bit/?start=20

Good luck! It was totally worth it for me.

Photobucket

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clipped on: 01.23.2013 at 05:03 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2013 at 05:03 pm

My 'slabs' are here!

posted by: senator13 on 08.01.2011 at 10:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

My slabs were installed this weekend. I really think they look nice with the cabinets
From Finished counter

I like their flat matte finish too

From Finished counter

The counter was done flush mount to the sink

From Finished counter

How it all looks together

From Finished counter

P.S. Yes, my "slabs" are laminate (Arborite, Black Grit). Originally, I had planned on going with a leathered black granite, because like many, I like the look of soapstone but I don't think I could live with the patina. In the end, I realized that although the feel of natural stone is far superior to any laminate in my mind, my laminate counters have always been very functional, easy to care for, and a good value for the money. My husband build these, so in total we spent around $500-even using plywood instead of MDF for the substrate material. I have 77 sq. feet of counter, so the cheapest granite would have been over $6,000 for that space. So, for me, it was a good decision. I hope my "slabs" inspire others who are considering laminate!

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clipped on: 12.04.2012 at 11:48 am    last updated on: 12.04.2012 at 12:21 pm

RE: Show us your laminate countertop, please (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: Angie_DIY on 11.05.2012 at 06:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

I know this reference was contained within one of badgergal's links, but I think Senator13 deserves a special call-out:

Here is a link that might be useful: Senator13

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clipped on: 12.04.2012 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2012 at 12:20 pm

RE: Show us your laminate countertop, please (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: taggie on 11.03.2012 at 07:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

We did Wilsonart Smoky Topaz with our white cabs in our townhouse kitchen:

Photobucket

Photobucket

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clipped on: 12.04.2012 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2012 at 12:19 pm

RE: such thing as good looking laminate counters? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: jessicaml on 06.09.2011 at 11:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm painting my cabinets white & hopefully getting Wilsonart laminate counters in Pearl Soapstone (haven't quite convinced DH yet).

There have been many useful threads on here in favor of laminate - here are a few:

Laminate Countertops - am I crazy

Wilsonart Laminate Countertops

Laminate counter tops in otherwise luxurious kitchen?

I think the options for backsplash are wide open until you find a pattern you like to start narrowing it down.

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clipped on: 12.04.2012 at 11:59 am    last updated on: 12.04.2012 at 11:59 am

RE: RECIPE: Pie Crust (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: phonegirl on 11.19.2012 at 11:20 pm in Recipe Exchange Forum

Elmokali,
I use to always buy premade pie crusts until my
Dear Mother gave me this recipe.
Perfect Pie Crust Every Time
4c. unsifted flour
2 tsp. salt
1 3/4 c Crisco
1/2 c water
1 TBSP white vinegar
1 large egg
No matter how much you handle this dough
it will be tender and flaky. Put the 4
cups of flour and salt in large bowl. Mix
well. Add crisco and using a dough blender
mix until ingredients are crumbly.

In a measuring cup fill with 1/2 cup water,
add vinegar and egg and mix well. Combine
with flour mixture, stirring with fork
until moistened. Divide dough into 4 equal
parts. With hands, shape dough into 4 flat
round patties. Wrap in platic wrap and chill
for 1/2 hour. When ready, roll into crust.
Can freeze up to two weeks before using and
the dough will remain nice.

I haven't bought pie crust since I made this
the first time. Hope you like flaky crust
and try this recipe. Let me know.

Punk

NOTES:

this looks like the pie crust recipe from Better Homes and Garden cookbook
clipped on: 12.04.2012 at 11:40 am    last updated on: 12.04.2012 at 11:41 am

RE: Treats on my Doorstep (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: hawk307 on 12.07.2011 at 02:33 pm in Cooking Forum

Lette_04

Here is the recipe for Pizzelles . It can be used for Biscotti also. One batch makes 2 strips in a cookie tin.
Just add more flour to make a soft dough that does not stick to your hands.

i usually make about 20 pizzelles, then mix in more flour to make the Biscotti.
Makes one strip in the cookie tin.
LOU
************************************
Good , Light, Crispy, Delicious, Mouth Watering, To kill for,

Lou's Pizzelles

3-X large eggs
1/2 cup (1 stick ) of melted butter ( not hot )
3 tablespoons of oil
1 cup of Sugar + 3 Tablespoons
4 Teasps. of Anise Extract or 1 Teasp. Anise Oil or
Try a little less first and adjust to taste
I use McCormick's Anise Extract or Anise Oil from Fante's of Phila.

1 3/4 cups of flour , add more to thicken
4 level, teaspoons of Baking Powder

Mix well, All the ingredients, except the Flour & Baking powder
Then add them and mix well. If you think the dough is
too soft add a little more flour.
I add until the batter peaks , ( a little stiff ) while mixing ,
and mix with a Tablespoon, to make a soft dough.
I use a Mellon Scoop, with a trigger release, to measure the dough. ( it holds one teaspoon )

When baking the Pizzelles pile them far away from
where you are baking.
Because they are soooo Gooood you will be eating them as you go.
This will make about 40 Pizzelles, unless didn't listen and piled them too close. Then you will have about 3 left and gained 2 lb. Save one for me.
**************************************

Karen: Check your oven temperature !!!

.

NOTES:

I want to try this!
clipped on: 05.25.2012 at 02:20 pm    last updated on: 05.25.2012 at 02:20 pm

RE: Flooring for cottage - water proof & winter proof? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: live_wire_oak on 02.28.2012 at 06:50 pm in Flooring Forum

Porcelain tile that looks like wood will be very durable, and about as waterproof as it gets. The grout will need sealing though because it's porous, but that's not a bad job to do if you give everyone their little squeeze bottle and do it as a family.

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clipped on: 03.09.2012 at 03:28 pm    last updated on: 03.09.2012 at 03:28 pm