Clippings by leela4

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RE: About the Design Around This threads (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: mudhouse on 01.07.2012 at 10:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Really helpful thread, thank you for starting it.

I am also using Olioboard, and I'd never heard of it until recently. It's not hard to learn at all. I use it to collect and play with materials until I arrive at a final collage, and then I click "Save as Jpeg" and save the collage to my computer. I post that to Photobucket for posting here.

The little applet you need to download (in order to grab images off the web) adds a little quicklink to your browser tool bar that says "Save to Olio." I'm pretty cautious about downloading apps I'm not familiar with, but this was fast and trouble free.

Once you log in, look for the upper left link that says "Me" to access all your saved items and boards.

Olioboard is designed so you can "Publish" your board to the Olioboard community, so other Olio users can see it. But if you simply want a tool to assemble boards to post elsewhere, just click "Save as Draft" instead of "Publish" and your boards aren't visible to others. I click Save as Draft often, to save my work as I go. I've had Olioboard freeze a few times, and this way my work is saved if I have to restart my browser.

For those who haven't tried Olioboard yet, here are some basics of what it can do:
- You can save each new Olioboard project you create with a title you choose, so you can open it to work on it as often as you'd like.
- You can crop objects to cut off extraneous background edges.
- Flop objects (reverse a chair to face from right to left) or flip objects (reverse up to down.)
- Resize objects, and move an object from front to back (put a floor behind a table, and then put a vase on the table.)
- Remove backgrounds. So far this seems to work best for me if the background is mostly a solid color. The "remove background" tool requires a little experimenting, but it's helpful.
- Rotate items, but not in fine degrees. Change a cabinet handle or rug from horizontal to vertical or 45 degrees. Sometimes, when I'm moving or resizing an item in Olioboard too quickly, I also rotate it by accident, so it ends up sideways. If this happens too often, you can put a little checkmark in the box that says "lock" by Rotate, and the item will no longer rotate until you unlock it.
- Duplicate items. If you have a cabinet image you like, you can make it the size you want, and click "duplicate." Another cabinet pops up, the exact same size. This way, you don't have to carefully size each cabinet (or backsplash tile, or flooring piece) one at a time.
- Upload images to your Olioboard library that you already have on your computer. So, you could take pics of the actual cabinets/furniture/flooring in your home, save them to your computer, upload them to Olioboard, to play with them there.

Sometimes, I'll click on "Save to Olio" to save an item to my Olioboard library, and I'll get a window saying "We're sorry, but this site does not allow saving with Olioboard extensions." In that case, I cancel the Olioboard Save window, and try right-clicking on the image (in Windows) to choose "Save As." Then I save it to my computer, and upload the item into my Olioboard library. It's a few more steps, but not hard. Another method is to open the Snipping Tool that comes with Windows, to select part of a webpage and save it to your computer. I think Macs have a similar version of Snipping Tool (if I'm not mistaken) that lets you capture any part of an internet page you're viewing.

When you copy an item off the web and add it to your Olioboard library, it captures the internet location where you found it, and often the manufacturer name/item name as well. This makes it easy to go back later, when you're done with your collage, to look up the info you need to source your materials for your post. When you click on the item in your completed Olioboard, the lower left corner of your screen displays a tiny window with the item name, and a link that says "Shop It". Clicking this will take you back to the website where you grabbed the item, so there's no need to make extensive notes about where you found it. I reject a lot of stuff after playing with it in my board, and this way I don't waste time documenting something I didn't use.

Also, the items I don't use in my current board still exist in my Olioboard library of items, so they're great to consider for future projects. And each item will still link back to the website location where I found it.

I don't see any way to change the color of an item in Olioboard, unfortunately, and I don't have a good solution for that (I don't own Photoshop.) I'm going to try the method that Cawaps outlines above, by using Word to paint a square of transparent color over the image (thanks for that!)

For years I've used a free download program called Irfanview to edit images. It's much simpler than sophisticated programs like Photoshop, although it still has a learning curve at first. I use this program to resize images, sharpen them if they appear fuzzy, or rotate them by only a few degrees at a time. I can add text to an image, and tweak colors slightly by selecting Color Corrections under Images. However, I can't change colors drastically (I can�t make a brown cabinet pink.) Irfanview also has a Paint Dialog box that I haven't learned how to use well. Basically, to tweak an image using Irfanview, I save the image to my computer, open it up in Irfanview, do the tweaking, and then resave it under the same file name. Then I can upload it to Olioboard to use in a board.

Most of this just takes some time to play with it, learning as you go. I said a few bad words out loud when I first tried Olioboard (I find it has a few little glitches.) Now I find it very handy and fast.

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clipped on: 06.20.2013 at 10:32 pm    last updated on: 04.19.2014 at 11:16 pm

RE: How to reduce porcelain tile slipperiness (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: Babka on 02.15.2014 at 02:28 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Enduring... ;-D

Kudzu- You will NOT be sorry. I went thru the same thing. Here's mine:

-Babka

 photo IMG_3420_zpsfe614dd6.jpg

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clipped on: 02.15.2014 at 04:27 pm    last updated on: 02.15.2014 at 04:27 pm

RE: Bathroom Remodel- 2 shower heads in smallish shower? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: mongoct on 01.14.2014 at 11:44 am in Bathrooms Forum

You can get a fine shower from a handheld.

If I'm installing just one head in a shower, I recommend the user go with a handheld. They're more versatile, and there is no performance penalty. Understand that many manufacturers use the same shower head for fixed and handheld applications. Same head, just a different presentation. Example, here's the Grohe Relaxa Top4, which is what I have in my shower:

Fixed:

Handheld:

I'll agree with raehelen too regarding the bench. I'll encourage you to eliminate the built-in bench and go with a movable wood stool or bench. Again, more versatile. And more comfortable to sit on.

Two heads in a 65" shower is not excessive.

Regarding the rainhead and pressure. You are correct, many people who use a rainhead as a daily shower head to shower an shampoo do indeed get frustrated with it. It's not really intended to function that way. But those who use a rainhead for the "rainhead experience", they love the rainhead.

If your two heads will be used for functional showering, I'd recommend a fixed head on one wall and a handheld on the other wall. Make the handheld hose long enough so it can be used to wash down the walls.

I probably install more Grohe than anything else. When you do change shower heads, there sometimes is a transition when going from what you're used to to what you now have. The new head isn't worse. It's simply different.

For your plumbing layout, consider having the supply valve(s) located just inside the shower so you can turn the water on without having to step into the shower. The idea is to eliminate getting hit with a cold spray when you turn the shower on.

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clipped on: 01.14.2014 at 05:30 pm    last updated on: 01.14.2014 at 05:30 pm

RE: false drawer fronts on bathroom vanities? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: enduring on 01.10.2014 at 09:36 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Draw your choices up on paper as Raehelen suggested. It doesn't have to be perfect. Just for you to get a feel. That is how I made my decision.

Here is my full height vanity door and under sink area with pullouts. It is a frameless cabinet. Never had one before. It has a nice 3" rail inside at the top of the opening. Maker said he does that to add a better finish. Hides the under part of the sink a bit more too. I have yet to get the counter and sink in.

Here is my full length door (I it wasn't matched as well as I'd like with the drawers, but it was from the same veneer I am told, and my peps thought it would be impossible to get it better.)
 photo IMG_0160_zpsa94dcfb2.jpg

You can see the top rail that is about 3" wide running across the top of the opening, extending down below the top of the vanity. With pullouts similar to what Raehelen referred to having in her vanity:
 photo IMG_0211_zps39d84be6.jpg

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clipped on: 01.11.2014 at 05:20 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2014 at 05:20 pm

RE: pondering combo of ceramic subway & marble (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: enduring on 10.13.2013 at 08:01 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Melissastar, how is it coming. Here are examples of how I drew my schemes up in Adobe Illustrator. It was time consuming but I enjoyed the process. The ultimate size for my installed design was what I could get that I liked. I bought my tile local and I am glad I did because I got to see what I was getting. There have been some posters here that have ordered online and their marble looks different from the sample they reviewed. I don't know what percent of GWebers have had this problem but too many for me to feel comfortable.

I used a marble mosaic in 2x4" size pieces, but I cut the mosaic apart to install the running bond because I couldn't get the 12x12 mass to work for me in a consistant manner. I did all my tile work, and I'm a novice. There are some areas that are not perfect, but I don't take pictures of those :)
 photo bathroomwalltile1-1.jpg

bathroom wall tile option#3 photo bathroomwalltile3.jpg

bathroom wall tile option#2 photo bathroomwalltile2.jpg

Leela4, I think the grit was around 120 or maybe even as course as 80. But the color is spectacular on this stone. I have another, harder soapstone that looks like a block of cement when rough - not pretty at all.

This counter is the same stone as the sink and it is 2 strips epoxied together down the long side because all my pieces except for the sink bottom where about 11" wide.
soapstone counter tub cabinet photo IMG_3889_zps09065ac0.jpg

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clipped on: 01.02.2014 at 01:20 am    last updated on: 01.02.2014 at 01:20 am

RE: help need shower pan advice (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: Anna_in_TX on 12.28.2013 at 08:33 pm in Bathrooms Forum

You are in luck, Kohler has two different styled cast iron shower pans that fit your opening. I would do cast iron in a heartbeat. You will have to maintain the caulk at the joint where the tile meets the pan, just like a bathtub.

Tile would be my next choice IF you have a tile guy with shower pan experience and if you choose an epoxy grout with a color such as light sliver.

Even if you use a premade shower pan, you still need to squeegee the walls and dry the joint where the tile wall meets the top of the shower pan.

Acrylic would be last on my list. The only reason to install acrylic if you were not planning to stay in the house or accept the fact that it will look aged in 15 years. Now Swanstone solid surface is going to be a nice bump ahead of acrylic. I have heard some folks say that it may be difficult to clean - but that may depend upon your water and type of soap.

If you search this bathroom forum you will find many a lot of threads cast iron versus acrylic versus tile etc where folks offer details. You will get your answers faster if you go ahead and do your own search instead of waiting for folks to chime in.

But my opinion is that since your opening gives you not 1 but 2 choices of cast iron, then pick the more traditional Kathryn or the more minimalist Purist Kohler and go on to the next decision in your house.

Here is a link that might be useful: Kohler Cast Iron Shower

This post was edited by Anna_in_TX on Sat, Dec 28, 13 at 20:45

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clipped on: 01.01.2014 at 11:55 am    last updated on: 01.01.2014 at 11:55 am

Sneak Peak Vanity and Laundry Cabinets

posted by: enduring on 12.23.2013 at 08:41 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Well the cabinet guy just left for the week and isn't quiet done. He had a lot of modifications to do to get my laundry tower conformed to accommodate my hidden maintenance area. Then the vanity was pretty straight forward except for the Toe Ductor. It is not easy to get the connections made. My DB had a bit of a struggle with the flex duct connection to the steel boot thing. Brett (cabinet guy) also struggled with the same procedure when hooking the flex duct to the toe kick boot. Its all in now.

PICTURES

Before:
 photo IMG_0012_zps24c96e44.jpg

After:
 photo IMG_0161_zps7bfd3446.jpg
 photo IMG_0169_zps3dd57fc4.jpg

 photo IMG_0211_zps39d84be6.jpg
 photo IMG_0213_zps8e88b2d6.jpg
 photo IMG_0214_zps849273f2.jpg

Before:
 photo IMG_5074_zps9a6f2468.jpg

 photo IMG_0019_zps61e8f763.jpg

After:
Laundry basket made out of felt will go here.
 photo IMG_0167_zps08f3e7e5.jpg
I see a crazy kitty!
 photo IMG_0163_zps5cfe93f4.jpg
 photo IMG_0165_zps5e779d98.jpg
 photo IMG_0184_zpsa17c48e2.jpg
 photo IMG_0183_zps950db699.jpg
 photo IMG_0188_zps1e812275.jpg

I'll besure to have the door open when I iron so I can access the inside of the cabinet. My iron will go in there. My soaps on the second shelf. If I put a pull out in that middle area it will have to be mounted to the sides.
 photo IMG_0186_zpsef95189e.jpg

Needing to complete:
1) Door jambs need finishing, door hardware, detail the maintenance access.
2) Toe kick veneer needs placed.
3) Electrical outlets, heated floor connected, sconces, 4) LED in toe kick area, and inside doored cabinets, and inside medicine cabinets.
5) Counter placed.
6) Plumbing fixtures installed (TOILET).
7) case work about the room.
8) Medicine cabinet made out of walnut.
9) Hardware for cabinet doors and drawers to be selected.
10) TILE & CAULK (me)

I am so please with it so far. There were issues but I didn't change out the mistakes. I thought the work looked very good to this point; don't press my luck with style errors that were made. Such as all the horizontal grain I wanted on the cabinets were vertical :0 But I decided to stay with it because my doors had vertical panels in the paneled doors. I didn't expect that either but it was clearly pictured on a pamphlet that I ordered from. Unfortunately the sample picture of the door was of cherry and I didn't notice the grain direction. But when I saw those doors this summer (yes it has been that long!) I about fainted. I will have 4" baseboard on the wall, 3" vertical case work, and 4" horizontal rail at the top. My design, I hope it looks ok :/

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clipped on: 01.01.2014 at 11:25 am    last updated on: 01.01.2014 at 11:25 am

RE: Determining insurance value (Follow-Up #39)

posted by: kailuamom on 12.28.2013 at 12:55 am in Kitchens Forum

Suzanne's - what a great post. Actually, the Oakland hills fire changed the entire industry. After the fire, companies took proper valuation seriously. However, after the smoke cleared, agents and insureds have forgotten the devastation and want the cheapest price. Every day, I have agents complain that values are just too high. Not to say high is better - right is most important.

One thing for all of you... There are a couple of important protections you should ask your agent about....

Extended replacement cost - in the event of a total loss, what percentage over coverage A will the company pay?

In some catastrophe prone areas, there is no extended replacement cost available, but demand surge is available. This is an extra percentage which covers the increases in costs after a catastrophic loss - like that fire. When thousands of losses take place at the same time, prices go up, and you wouldn't necessarily have valued for that.

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clipped on: 12.28.2013 at 09:45 am    last updated on: 12.28.2013 at 09:45 am

Cookalong Extra! ****Holiday Cookies****

posted by: wizardnm on 11.26.2010 at 09:31 am in Cooking Forum

This is the first of some Cookalong Extra ideas that I've thought about. Instead of focusing on a specific ingredient, we will focus on a particular recipe type.

Same general rules as the regular Cookalong, only T+T recipes, credit to the source, if you know it.
Please, no doctored up pre-made items, the Cooking forum is all about cooking from scratch.
Please add your hints on how to make this turn out perfect. Will the finished item freeze or not? Why do you love it?
Read through any recipes that are already posted to avoid duplication of identical recipes.

Every year I start thinking about Christmas cookies as soon as the turkey from our Thanksgiving dinner is cold. It's the same as pulling out the decorations each year.
I start making a list of the cookies I want to make. There are the favorites that I make every year and then I few new to me recipes that I want to try.

Please share your very favorites, even if they have been posted on the CF before.
Tell us why a particular recipe is the only one you use. Is it soft or crispy? Is it a good keeper?

I want to encourage new posters to add their favorites. Your recipes bring new life to the CF.

My hope is that we can have this as a reference that also is saved for easy long term use.

Thanks!

Nancy

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clipped on: 12.19.2013 at 10:04 am    last updated on: 12.19.2013 at 10:04 am

RE: Pics of "living finish" on soapstone counters (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: trailrunner on 12.05.2013 at 02:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

linelle thank you ! ...it just wipes up...I can't see a difference in one spot where I spilled a bunch of EVOO last night as I was making salad dressing. I just use the soapy dishcloth and wipe over it and it is gone. Never have had a problem with "spots" on this stone. This countertop has darkened uniformly over the 7 yrs. I think every stone type is going to be different...at least from what I read on this forum.

dc..glad I was able to be of help. I love my countertop. It is 30" deep and the uppers are 15" deep in this area. All drawers below with my baking stuff. Here is a pic of the area .

Baking area w/ 30&quot; deep soapstone countertop photo kitchen011.jpg

The bread recipe is below . It is exactly what they sell at Balthazar's Bakery in NYC! It is wonderful. c


1. Use Turbinado sugar for the top...lots not regular
2. Use the bittersweet not unsweet chocolate

CHOCOLATE BREAD STARTER
1/4 teaspoon active dry yeast
1 cup lukewarm water
1 cup all-purpose flour, plus
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour ( you can use bread flour)
CHOCOLATE YEAST BREAD
5 cups bread flour ( 1 c or so extra for kneading)
1/2 cup good-quality cocoa powder
2/3 cup sugar, plus
4 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons active dry yeast dissolved in 2 c warm water
2 1/2 teaspoons fine salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature,plus more for pans
6 ounces good-quality bittersweet chocolate, chopped into 1/4 inch pieces
vegetable oil, for lightly oiling bowl
1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon heavy cream
4 tablespoons turbinado sugar
Directions
1)Chocolate Bread Starter: Dissolve yeast in water for 10 minutes; stir in flour until completely mixed; cover loosely and leave to proof at room temperature 6 hours.

2) Chocolate Yeast Bread: KA with dough hook for 5 min. on low or till completely smooth- mix 5c flour, cocoa, 2/3 cup sugar, yeast water and 1/2 cup Chocolate Bread Starter (freeze the remainder for later use); scrape sides often let rest in bowl 15 minutes.

3)Turn on KA to med. and add soft butter and salt, cont for 10 min till it is smooth and shiny. After the 10 min add in about 1/2c-3/4 c flour now , just enough so dough cleans bowl and cont a couple minutes. Should be very soft but kneadable. Place on counter with a light dusting of flour and knead in chopped chocolate thoroughly.

4)Place dough in lightly oiled bowl and cover with plastic wrap; let rise until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours; leaving dough in bowl, fold dough into thirds as if folding a letter for an envelope, recover with plastic wrap; let rest 30 minutes.

5)Butter three 8"x4"x2" loaf pans and coat with remaining 4 T granulated sugar; divide dough in thirds ( will have 4# of dough approx) and then divide each third into 4 even pieces; roll and form each piece of dough into a tight ball; place four pieces, smooth side up, side-by-side in each loaf pan; cover tightly with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until doubled, about 2 hours.

6)Preheat oven to 375°;right before placing in oven combine egg yolk and cream and brush on loaves; sprinkle with lots of turbinado sugar; place in oven, reduce temperature to 350° and bake for 40-45 minutes or until loaves have a slightly hollow sound when tapped on the bottom.

7)Let rest in loaf pans for 5 minutes before removing to wire rack.

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clipped on: 12.05.2013 at 07:16 pm    last updated on: 12.05.2013 at 07:16 pm

RE: Guest bedroom remodeling Do's and Don'ts (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: cat_mom on 11.18.2013 at 12:26 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Your guest bathroom layout/size looks much like ours; a longish, narrow room. Ours is on the ground floor of our house. Yes, it would have been very nice to have a heated floor in that bathroom (having it throughout the entire ground floor would be on my fantasy wish-list--tile floors on slab can be quite chilly during the cooler months, well into the spring!). We have heated floors in our two main/upstairs bathrooms, and LOVE them. However, because this bathroom is NOT used on a daily, regular basis, as the other two are, and because we had just completed our kitchen renovation only months before we did the guest bathroom (and still had the other two bathrooms to reno), we couldn't justify the cost. I do sometimes regret that we didn't put it in though.

Larger tile can be more slippery (depending on the material, tile surface, etc.). Smaller tile, with more grout lines, can allow for better traction. However, we put a bath mat down in front of our tubs/shower, to step onto with wet feet, before stepping onto our toasty warm tile. :)

FYI, not sure if you are already planning to do so, but make sure you cover your cement board with some form of waterproofing membrane (roll-on, such as Laticrete's Hydroban, or Redguard--easiest method, or Kerdi cloth). You really only want to do a full demo once!

We used Starfire (clear, low-iron) glass for our shower door, and had Clear Shield (protective coating) applied despite this being a little used bathroom. The first we did in order to preserve the look of our white tiled shower walls, the second for peace of mind with regards to mineral deposit build-up over time. These are some things to consider when choosing where to splurge/save. We saved a few $ by using 3/8" rather than 1/2" glass (the 3/8" glass feels plenty sturdy, IMO). but splurged on the slightly more expensive "contemporary" handle, and opted to use the slightly taller option for the enclosure/door which worked better with our border tile and door hinge location(s).

Also, something we opted to do (in all three bathrooms)--we had the tub/shower tile go all the way up to, and across the ceilings over the tubs/shower. We did this as an added measure of "peace of mind" no-maintenance, and we liked the look, as well.

I can provide some pics of our guest bathroom if you'd like.

HTH!

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clipped on: 11.23.2013 at 12:18 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2013 at 12:18 pm

RE: Wet white marble shower floor turned gray! (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: mongoct on 11.01.2013 at 11:05 am in Bathrooms Forum

"My question to you is are you recommending a membrane between the two layers of deck mud & then another topical membrane directly under the tile?"

No, my previous wording was probably a bit vague.

What I recommend is really a method that I consider to be a "best practice" for showers, especially those with natural stone. Starting with a flat subfloor, after proper prep you put a sloped later of deck mud on the subfloor with a flanged drain set flush into the deck mud.

Then on top of the sloped mud you put a topical membrane; Hydroban, Kerdi, for example. Those at the two systems that have flanged drains.

Then you tile directly on the membrane.

The thing I like about the flanged drain is that when compared to a clamping drain, the physical structure of the clamping drain creates a small 1/4" high dam where the membrane is clamped by the drain's ring.

That 1/4" obstruction shouldn't restrict drainage, because the weep holes should allow any moisture that hits the flange to flow through the several sets of weep holes built into the drain. In the above photo, you can see the weep holes to the left and right of the 6 o'clock position on the flange. There's another set in the bolt holes.

The clamping drain system should work fine. But sometimes it doesn't. And sometimes there is no logical or apparent reason why it doesn't give optimal performance.

Compare that to a flanged drain, where the slope of the membrane is smooth from wall to drain pipe itself. There are no vertical obstructions.

I have to consider myself fortunate that I've never had "wet ring" moisture issues like you, stacy, and threeapples, even when using clamping drains.

One other comment. I hadn't seen this thread for a while and I just noticed your tiler's response to you:

"I used dry pack. Thinset(no mastic) and hydro ban. Did pre slope. Water proofed, then pan. Then tile with thin set. I have no idea what could be going on"

The part that confuses me is the "Did pre slope. Waterproofed, then pan."

I don't understand the "...then pan" part that follows "Waterproofed...". Is it supposed to be "Waterproofed the pan."? That would make sense.

With Hydroban, you do a sloped layer of deck mud. Then hydroban over that deck mud. No "pan" goes over that waterproofing. You tile right on the Hydroban.

I don't know what kind of drain he used. If he used the Laticrete flanged drain (which is designed to work with Hydroban) your GC shouldn't have been able to get to any "drain pack", here are the layers he would have found during his excavation:

If your tiler used a clamping drain with Hydroban, which he probably did since your GC was able to remove some tile and "dig through some mud to see weep holes", then he probably did it using the "divot method".

You do a mud preslope, then carve out a bowl or "divot" around the clamping drain.

Then hydroban the sloped mud, the divot, and the drain flange:

Then install the top part of the clamping drain over the base flange:

Then thread the drain grate assembly into the drain base.

Add a small handful of pea stone (or other "debris") over the weep holes so mud doesn't pack into the weepholes and clog them. Then fill over the pea stone to fill the divot with mud, then tile:

Sorry I can't be of more help, but it's time for me to run. Hopefully you can get things figured out.

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clipped on: 11.05.2013 at 12:43 am    last updated on: 11.05.2013 at 12:44 am

RE: Can I Use Wall Tile on Floor? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: enduring on 10.29.2013 at 06:36 pm in Bathrooms Forum

The PEI rating is a rating of durability of glazed finish. The Grade is a rating of suitibility for floors and walls. I was looking for this link when you first posted but couldn't find it in my searches. I came up in my search today.

Here is a link that might be useful: Houzz article on tile characteristics

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clipped on: 10.30.2013 at 09:30 am    last updated on: 10.30.2013 at 09:30 am

RE: Calacatta tile from Home Depot matches real slab perfectly! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jacqueline5 on 10.26.2013 at 11:36 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Writersblock, I had to drive 2 1/2 hours to find the tile. A search on the HD website said there was none in my area so I started inputting in zip codes for all my family members and friends across California and even to Reno, NV. Have you called MSI directly? They call the tile Pierta Calacatta but its exactly the same. They're very nice, I couldn't find the trim pieces and they directed me to another tile supplier about an hour away that will order for me. MSI
http://www.msistone.com/porcelain-pietra/calacatta/

It is also available online, their price is a bit higher than HD, but still seriously affordable *and* they sell the mosaic and bull nose trim pieces. Disclaimer: I know absolutely nothing about their reputation. Check online for reviews, etc.
http://www.tile-stones.com/Calacatta-Porcelain-12x24-18x18-Polished-_p_1183.html

One more thing. This tile is bloody heavy! One case of six tiles weighs 58lbs. We had to divide up my order into the back of my husbands full size 4wd pick-up and my 4x4 SUV to get it all home. So, plan for the weight if transporting it yourself.

Tile guy comes Monday to hot mop and start prepping to build the shower eeeek!

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clipped on: 10.27.2013 at 12:23 pm    last updated on: 10.27.2013 at 12:23 pm

RE: Wet white marble shower floor turned gray! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: mongoct on 10.25.2013 at 11:27 am in Bathrooms Forum

Catbuilder is correct.

"Portland cement" can be different things regarding semantics. But if they actually used a no-kidding honest-to-goodness STANDARD portland cement mixture, it's the wrong thing for a shower pan. It should have been "dry pack" or "deck mud", which is a sand-cement mixture with much more sand than cement, and very little water.

The difference between the two is that deck mud will allow water to drain or percolate through it.

If they used a no-kidding "mastic", again, that's the wrong product. Mastics can absorb water, hold water, and re-emulsify (soften) when exposed to standing water. And a shower floor will see standing water. A cement-based thinset should have been used to set the marble on the floor.

Again, it could be semantics at play. Some people erroneously swap "mastic" for "thinset". If your floor tile was adhered with something that came out of a re-sealable plastic bucket, it was "mastic" and it was the wrong product. If it came in dry powdered form and they mixed it up on site, then it was "thinset". Again, thinset should have been used.

Lastly, "the pan was properly installed". You already wrote that "The pan was properly installed w/Portland cement...". You didn't mention a topical membrane, so I'm supposing they used a CPE or CPVC membrane buried in deck mud?

Let's assume they used proper deck mud instead or portland cement. What they should have done is install a sloped layer of deck mud, with the slope going to the drain. Then install the waterproof membrane over the sloped deck mud. That way the membrane is sloped to the drain, and that is required by code. Then on top of the membrane, they install another layer of deck mud, that layer follows the slope of the membrane. Then the tile goes on top of that layer of mud.

If they installed the membrane flat on the subfloor and then installed a sloped layer of deck mud on top of the flat membrane, and then tiled? That's wrong, because you have a flat membrane.

A non-sloped membrane flat on the floor can hold water underneath the tile.

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clipped on: 10.26.2013 at 08:06 pm    last updated on: 10.26.2013 at 08:06 pm

RE: another grab bar question (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: Babka on 10.24.2013 at 07:39 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I never heard of assist bars either. Thank you. Something new every day for my old brain. The Smedbo grab bar we have is solid brass and it can hold an elephant! Not cheap. Most towel bars are hollow, and fine for towels, but don't hang on them.

There are a whole lot of "thinner/shorter" grab bars at the Smedbo.com website, with many styles.

With the bracing in the walls you can assure yourself that wood screws will work to hang your regular towel bars or mirrors. Otherwise you have to use those toggle bolts to hold the bars against the sheetrock if it is hollow behind where you want to mount them.

-Babka

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RE: another grab bar question (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Babka on 10.24.2013 at 03:42 pm in Bathrooms Forum

It becomes a grab bar when it won't pull off or out of the wall. You can put an extra 2x6 between the studs to allow you to position it more easily. Otherwise you need to screw it into the studs. My grab bar is only 1" thick and 11-3/4" long. Perhaps it is the ADA that requires those thick ones.

-Babka

 photo IMG_3403_zps79c84c14.jpg

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clipped on: 10.25.2013 at 01:19 am    last updated on: 10.25.2013 at 01:19 am

RE: Grohe or Hansgrohe lavatory faucet (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: enduring on 10.20.2013 at 09:36 am in Bathrooms Forum

I don't think either is better but I really don't know. Here is a link to faucet descriptions that I like. I have been using Hansgrohe for my 2 remodels only because of the Axor line they have. I wonder if Hansgrohe has a better advertising department :)

Anyway here is the link. There is another article that they have that is "part 1" that describes how faucets work.

Here is a link that might be useful: faucet reviews & ratings part 2

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RE: Basketweave + slate-look porcelain? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: mongoct on 10.16.2013 at 04:12 pm in Bathrooms Forum

"I'm thinking darker grout - but I could easily be convinced that lighter would be better."

If you are thinking dark grout with the basketweave...

I find that combination (charcoal or dark grout and basketweave) to be stunning. It really makes the pattern pop. Here's a nice contrasting shot with both options:

Although the following are marble basketweaves, the "light grout" photo is simply the tile ungrouted. The grouted tile had a dark grout. These are from Casey's bathroom, one of my favorites of all time. Simply stunning.

Ungrouted, giving the illusion of a "light grout look":

And grouted with a dark grout:

I kid you not, that floor gets to me. It's simply spectacular.

I could fully see a bathroom with a basketweave with dark grout, then the shower having dark slate with dark grout. The basketweave with dark grout would be the attention-getter and show-stopper. The slate with dark grout would simply "be there". The dark/dark combo wouldn't pull the eye to the shower floor. It wouldn't try to compete with or distract from the basketweave.

If the slate had light grout, causing the tile pattern to pop, I almost think it would be a detriment to the overall design.

Let the basketweave be the star. Let the shower floor play second fiddle.

Do understand that it simply my opinion, based on how my eye sees things. Certainly feel free to do what pleases you!

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RE: Bathroom Vanity Makers (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: ctlady on 02.01.2013 at 08:57 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We have just ordered (and had delivered -- it's beautiful!) a 36" vanity from Strasser Woodenworks (made in the USA). We used a small one in an earlier bath remodel and LOVED it. No idea what the prices of larger ones might be. I think it was about $1K from a bath supply place (so somewhat discounted, probably comparable to a contractor's discount). The other brand we looked at was made (also in the US) by Westwood Comfort in California. We LOVE the Strasser -- beautifully made. Our local bath supply place uses their own supplier for the tops, so it came with a granite top from a local supplier, not one of the Strasser options. But for the smaller Strasser a few years ago, we got the "Eurolav" style with the vitreous china and it is just beautiful. Good luck with whatever you get!

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RE: vote on my vanity variations (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: catbuilder on 07.27.2013 at 06:12 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I would do one at the top. Like the picture you posted, but then imagine connecting them across the front. That way you don't lose all that space in front of the trap (assuming that the trap is far enough back to make it worthwhile). With two separate ones, you also lose valuable space to the extra sides of the drawers.

Okay, I found some pictures:

Here, they cut out the top drawer more than the bottom one to accommodate the sink. I don't think you'll have that problem.

This was a good job plumbing the sink, leaving lots of room for the drawer.

This last one is what I mean by having a separate drawer at the top that is not connected to the door. I like this arrangement best, as long as you don't think you will want to access what's on the top most. If you do, then it's a pain to have to open the pullout door and then the drawer.

Hmnm, I wonder if you could put a magnetic catch on the front of that drawer that holds it to the door when it's pulled open, and then you could manually disconnect it when you wanted to access what's in the bottom drawer.

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clipped on: 07.28.2013 at 03:55 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2013 at 03:55 pm

RE: Apron Sinks/Farmhouse Sinks (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: remodelfla on 05.21.2013 at 07:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have a SS apron front in IKEA cabs. It's a 36" single bowl sink in a 36" cab. My kitchen is probably way more contemporary then yours; but I think the look is versatile. I don't notice a difference with the sink being pulled out. It's a curved front so the curve extends just a bit but that was the design I chose. Pics would probably help huh?!

Long shot:

close up:

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RE: Need Simple Large Tile Shower Ideas (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: dekeoboe on 07.11.2013 at 02:09 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I'm not sure how large a tile you plan on using, we used 12x24 tiles.

This is a hall bathroom. Yes, we used glass tiles, but you could substitute them with your granite tile instead.

 photo IMG_2144.jpg

This is our master shower. There is one navy wall with a tan stripe and the other walls are tan with a navy stripe.

Master Shower photo IMG_2093.jpg

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RE: Want to keep my soapstone unoiled--how to deal with grease (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: needinfo1 on 07.01.2013 at 05:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

The fabricator I used stopped in today for something else, so I asked him about grease on soapstone. He says the maroon, 3M, scrubbing pad found in paint stores can be used with Softscrub to remove grease spots. This technique can also be used if someone wants to completely get rid of the oiling they have done on their soapstone. So, I'll add this to my list of things to try on my next set of grease spots.

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clipped on: 07.11.2013 at 01:44 am    last updated on: 07.11.2013 at 01:44 am

We've stormed the castle [bathroom]!

posted by: westleyandbuttercup on 05.19.2013 at 08:47 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We moved into our newly constructed home a little over a month ago. Things aren't quite complete--we don't have sidewalks and the house isn't even painted yet--but here's a peek at my master bath.

We love, love, love our shower...except for the grout on the wall tile. We went with a greige when we should have gone with a grey. I plan to attempt to remedy that this summer with a grout colorant.Shower photo IMG_1778_zps620fd31c.jpg
Shower photo IMG_1776_zps13fc3c93.jpg

Here's the view from the shower doorway. We were able to switch to a grey grout for the floor.
From the Shower Door photo IMG_1788_zps59b56740.jpg

Here's a more complete view of the vanity area. The tower between the sinks has a lift-up door that hides our electric toothbrush, hairdryer and such. The cupboard at the end of the vanity run has two hampers and tons of shelving space.
 photo Masterbathvanitywall_zps455364cb.jpg

This isn't a true reveal as I haven't compiled details for everything, but here are a few:
Shower wall and bathroom floor tile are both Mirasol glazed porcelain by American Olean. 10"x14" on the wall and 12"x12" on the floor.

Shower floor is Noir Hex 2"x2". Accent band is Silver Thorn with Glass Stria. Bench seat is Noir Honed 12"x12". All from The Tile Shop.

Wall color is Benjamin Moore Thunder.

Handles on the drawers are from the SkyeVale Collection and octagonal knobs are from the Fire Collection, both from Schaub and Company.

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clipped on: 07.01.2013 at 11:43 pm    last updated on: 07.01.2013 at 11:43 pm

Guest Bath Finished!

posted by: laurat88 on 06.28.2013 at 11:09 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Finally, our guest bathroom is complete. Here are the details.

Geotech Geogray field tile 12x24 and cut to 4x4 for shower floor.

Happyfloors Neostyle Chalk 12x24 tiles in shower

Vogue Bay Magic Glass in Troical Gray - the big splurge

Aspen White quartzite countertop - found a remnant at the fabricator's shop so I (partially) made up for the mosaic

Hansgrohe fixtures in polished chrome

Toto Aquia dual flush skirted toilet

Rift-cut white oak vanity with a custom stain (natural with a black/gray wash)

Atlas U-turn cabinet pulls in satin nickel (yes, I mixed finishes but the chrome ones looked too shiny)

Paint - Benjamin Moore Green Tint - it is almost the exact color of the "white" part of the mosaic. The pictures make the walls look more gray when in fact they are slightly green (almost minty). The 3rf to last picture shows the color best

Starfire glass door - not a great expense since the door is so small.

Still need some towels - I really like orange to make the room pop or maybe a chartreuse color. Also need some art work for the large wall you see as you enter and maybe a shelf to the left of the sink or possibly a hand towel bar.

We were supposed to have a curbless shower, but our GC talked us out of it. He is a conservative builder and thought it was too risky (small shower just barely meeting slope reqs) and didn't want to build it unless we used a linear drain and the expense was out of our budget. It was that or the mosaic tile.

Nonetheless, I am really pleased with it.

 photo DSC_2339_zps33218df5.jpg

 photo DSC_2337_zps11bc1738.jpg

 photo DSC_2336_zpsddef2456.jpg

 photo DSC_2334_zps00aca19f.jpg

 photo DSC_2331_zpsea7b60fe.jpg

 photo DSC_2344_zps57c2f490.jpg

 photo DSC_2342_zps90fe73dc.jpg

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clipped on: 06.28.2013 at 11:41 pm    last updated on: 06.28.2013 at 11:42 pm

RE: fini - ikea cabs,curbless shower,porcelain plank floor,fake m (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: elphaba on 06.25.2013 at 10:16 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I was definitely worried about hiring a contractor who didn't know what he was doing. I did a fair amount of research so when I spoke with them, I could tell how comfortable they were with the requirements and in our case need to modify the joists below the floor. Some even opening admitted they hadn't done one but were willing to take on the task. No Thanks!
I monitored several forums on the web and set up a google alert for "curbless shower" and tried to get a sense of experience. One of the forums is particularly good and turns out one of the contributors was from our metro area. I could read how he communicated and also sense how the other experienced guys on the forum respected him.
It was amazing to me how in such a large metro area where we live, how few contractors have much experience with this. From what I can tell, it was rather difficult though since our house has a "pier and beam" foundation, that made it a bit more straightforward. It was also very expensive but the guy I hired is good and he knows he's good so didn't have to low bid the job. (I also liked that his bid didn't change during the job). We have an old house and he personally lived in an old house so was accustomed to the eccentricities and surprises of old houses. Overall, I felt VERY lucky. Maybe in time, contractors will get more experience but for now, it is scary what a risk you are taking hiring someone for this job. If I hadn't had the extra information for this contractor, I might have just chosen one of those "kits" - check out the Schluter web site (linear drains are a bit expensive but worth it) and definitely the forum run by John Bridge. I think a homeowner shouldn't try hiring for this kind of job without doing a lot of research and having a lot of confidence in the contractor they end up hiring. Angies list had a couple of reviews that looked interesting if I hadn't of found the contractor I ended up with.
Good luck.

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clipped on: 06.26.2013 at 12:41 am    last updated on: 06.26.2013 at 12:41 am

RE: Foot Pedal for Trash Can (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: buehl on 08.07.2008 at 12:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

The only one I know about is the one made by Häfele. Others have asked and no one seems to know of any other either.

You should be able to find installation info on either the Häfele site or one of the sites that sells it. There are two versions...one for trash cans mounted on rails (like yours) and one for trash cans mounted in a drawer-like base. Note that both are designed for frameless cabinets. However, a resourceful GWer posted what s/he did to adapt hers/his to framed cabinets. S/he has the rail type. See the info below.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

From the "Pull Out Trash" thread started by ColdTropics on Fri, Jul 20, 07 at 2:43


Posted by metoo2 (My Page) on Wed, Aug 15, 07 at 19:27

Front View when cabinet is shut:
http://photos.gardenweb.com/home/galleries/2007/08/pull_out_trash_foot _pedal_fron.html?cat=kitchens

View of foot pedal when cabinet is open:
http://photos.gardenweb.com/home/galleries/2007/08/pull_out_trash_foot _pedal_door.html?cat=kitchens
Keep in mind this view will be hidden when trash cans are in the cabinet.

Metal plate mounted on bottom back of door:
http://photos.gardenweb.com/home/galleries/2007/08/pull_out_trash_foot _pedal_meta.html?cat=kitchens
This is the plate that is 3.5" tall--to deal with a face framed cabinet.

Finally, looking at the bottom of the cabinet:
http://photos.gardenweb.com/home/galleries/2007/08/pull_out_trash_foot _pedal_unde.html?cat=kitchens
Glued a scrap of wood to the back of the face frame.


Posted by metoo2 (My Page) on Wed, Aug 15, 07 at 20:01

muscat: The rails are always attached to the door-regardless of whether your trash cans hang from a rail, or your trash cans sit on a base. In your picture, the cans sit on a base.

I believe that my modifications will also work with your situation (cans sitting on a base). However, you will need to make one minor modification that I did not do. That modification has to do with the elastic cords that come with the pedal.

Elastic cords (ie, bungee cords) pull the door open when the pedal is kicked. You would have to alter where the front of the cords are mounted inside the cabinet. Very easy to do.

Earlier posts on this thread refer to a version of the Häfele pedal for trash cans which sit on a base. I have not seen this product. I suspect they use the identical pedal, but altered the instructions relative to the location where to mount the elastic cords.


Posted by lowspark (My Page) on Fri, Jul 20, 07 at 11:02

I'm not sure what the door mount kit is, but you have to have a pull out trash in order for the foot pedal to work.

In other words, your trash bins should be hanging from a rail attached to the door OR sitting on a shelf attached to the door. The door should pull open like a drawer (not swing open like a normal cab) and as it pulls open the trash bins come out with it.

Note that Häfele makes two different pedals, one for the bins hanging from rails and one for the bins sitting on the shelf. I'm not clear on which one you've linked to above. Also note that these foot pedals are designed for frameless cabs. I don't know if they can or have been used on framed cabs and would be interested to hear about that if anyone has.

Here are the links I have to the two kinds of Häfele pedals:

Pedal for trash can which hangs from rails: http://www.kitchensource.com/trash/ha-5-44.htm

Pedal for trash can which sits on base: http://www.kitchensource.com/trash/ha-5-43.htm

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


Note: In the two links above, the foot pedals are on the bottom of the pages. Click on the "Specs (PDF)" link below the picture. Other places than KitchenSource also sell these. (When determining your "best" price, be sure to factor in tax and shipping!)


HTH!

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RE: Glass tile mosaics on bathroom floor? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: enduring on 06.16.2013 at 09:54 am in Bathrooms Forum

Floor tiles need to be stronger, more durable, and provide traction when wet, when compared to tiles that can go on walls. I would look at the rating of the glass you are looking at. I've linked a site that explains the durability to some extent. The strength factor is not addressed in this link. Another concern is the slipperiness factor. There is a code for that too called the C.O.E. and here is some text I too off of the Build Direct web page:

Coefficient of Friction: Wet/Dry
The skid resistance scale is used to determine the degree of slippage on a tiled surface. While assessing different tile surfaces, wet and dry conditions along with the speed of the subject are monitored. Also, the required force to move that subject and the angle of the tiled place are considered too. The Ceramic Tile Institute identifies tile in the following three categories:

Slip Resistant: Coefficient of friction is 0.60 or greater (wet). Meets or exceeds general safety and health regulations, ADA and OSHA requirements.

Conditionally Slip Resistant: Coefficient of friction is 0.50 to 0.59 (wet). Meets or exceed general safety and health regulations and OSHA requirements.

Questionable: Coefficient of friction less than 0.50

One important fact is that the more textured a tile is, the less slippery it is. And that's why, polished or highly polished tiles are not recommended for high traffic areas or for residential sites with children and the elderly. Also, as a rule the greater the anti-slip finish on the tile, the harder it is to keep clean.

I doubt if glass can meet the strength, C.O.E. and durability factors. But I am only assuming.

Here is a link that might be useful: floorelf's durability explaination

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clipped on: 06.19.2013 at 11:30 pm    last updated on: 06.19.2013 at 11:30 pm

RE: Anybody regret tiling their shower floor? (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: breezygirl on 05.01.2011 at 05:33 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I've been meaning to come back and let you know what we decided--tile floor! I ordered a custom tile-ready shower base from KBRS based on the recommendation from someone on the Kitchen Forum. The tile pans I'd seen online until then were pre-fab sizes that just didn't quite work.

KBRS can do whatever size and curb/thresholds you want. We decided to do a pony wall with glass above for a good section of the shower beside the toilet so we are having that section of the KBRS pan made with just the flange, no curb. Then we put the curb where we wanted it for the frameless glass door. The cost was barely more than the Tile-Redi pan that wasn't the right size and had a curb all along the front.

The pan should arrive towards the end of next week. I'll let you know what it looks like when it gets here. But I don't really know how to judge the quality of it just by looking it as I've never seen a tile pan before. ;)

Thanks so much everyone!

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clipped on: 06.18.2013 at 11:45 pm    last updated on: 06.18.2013 at 11:45 pm

RE: doorless showers (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: elphaba on 06.17.2013 at 06:21 pm in Bathrooms Forum

probably a little late to post this for the OP but wanted to say (as I've said numerous times), we love our shower without a door. The shower is 5X5 with a fixed shower on one side, handheld shower next to an Envision seat on the other and a rain shower in the middle. we have a linear/trench drain.
Both shower heads are 16 inches from the wall. They can be pointed if want but we usually just leave them the way they are. There is a lot I could say but I will post this picture (which I have posted before). We wanted a setup that would work with a wheel chair if we needed it.
I have put a small mat in front of the sink. There is a small amount of water that sprays onto the matt but not very much. Doesn't make it soggy or anything like that. Helps with my balance which mine is not good. I love the bars. Since we have the Moen digital spa, we didn't need a lot of trim for valves.
We weren't sure about not having a door so we had contractor build it so we could add door later if we wanted. That's not going to happen. I think the doorless shower is probably what I like best about the whole room and I REALLY love the room.

Rest of pictures of the room are at:
www.houstonbookclubs.org/hbath

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