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Stone Yards NY, NJ, CT

posted by: Melly73 on 07.18.2013 at 04:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all, I'm hoping to get some help looking for a slab of white Carrara marble. So far I've been to PMI in Long Island City, HG Stone in Brooklyn and Everest Marble in CT. I keep finding slabs I love but they are either too thick (2") or too thin (3/4"). Any recommendations for stone yards would be great and even better if anyone could recommend somewhere I could visit a few place all near to each other. Everest was the best place I've been to so far in terms of selection and helpfulness. Thank for any help.


clipped on: 08.12.2013 at 03:29 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2013 at 03:29 pm

Need reviews on granite places in Long Island

posted by: bbell on 02.08.2011 at 08:52 am in Kitchens Forum

Has anyone used Renaissance Marble Works, Inc or Rai Designs and Imports in New Hyde Park?

I can't find any reviews on either of these two places. One seems to be high end and the other seems to be a "mom & pops" place.

I love a granite at Renaissance but they seem so rough around the edges (no punt intended). Unfortunately, Rai doesn't have the granite I want but they have my 2nd choice.

Any help would be appreciated.


clipped on: 05.08.2013 at 04:12 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2013 at 04:12 pm

Granite options Long island,NY advice needed!!

posted by: sportsrx on 09.05.2010 at 10:15 am in Kitchens Forum

Starting this thread as an off shoot to the one discussing
We are doing a complete kitchen renovation & have a large island. The granites we like often fall into the "exotics " category......but anyway we are asking for suggestions to go shopping at somewhat local yards w many options, good customer service & competitive pricing.....too much to ask?



clipped on: 05.08.2013 at 04:08 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2013 at 04:08 pm

A year in the making. My new kitchen w/pics

posted by: oldhouse1 on 09.11.2011 at 08:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our home is a simple 1840 Canadiana. We were living life quite comfortably when we drove by a home we always jokingly said we would buy if it ever went up for sale. Well, there it was, a big for sale sign in the middle of the lawn. Long story short we moved from our 4 bathroom home to one 1/3 the size with one bath that also happened to be off the kitchen. We immediately set out to design a small addition which included a kitchen. That was three years ago. With the exception of the foundation and framing, this has been a complete DIY project. After a year and a month of doing dishes in the bathroom I now have a kitchen. It doesn't have alot of bells and whistles and although we didn't necessarily want a period kitchen we did want one that suited an older home.


Ikea Tidaholm cupboards, professionally sprayed in Cloud White with alot of customization. Unfortunately, these have since been discontinued.

AEG Electrolux 36" freestanding stove. Bought for less then half price because someone bought it, used it once and returned it because they decided they wanted gas. We don't have gas and recently put in Geo Thermal heating/air conditioning. Wasn't in the budget to bring in propane. Stove was so reasonable that if we decide to do so later we can.

Liebherr 30" freestanding refrigerator. Purchased for half price because it had a dent dent in the bottom half. Bought a new door so it was good as new, until they delivered it and dented the top half. They replaced the door. Neither will be installed until house is complete (just in case).

Ikea farmhouse sink and dishwasher. I'm actually very pleased that it works as well as it does.

Perrin and Rohl Aquatine faucet in polished nickel.

Island and Jam cupboard - Special Order from Camlen Furniture in Quebec. Purchased with hand planed top in pine and may or not replace with marble. Will live with it for a while.

10" random length pine floors. All hand finished and dinged and finshed with Waterlox. This alone took us several weeks. We love the finish.

Honed Absolute Black granite. Bought the kitchen at Ikea's 20% off sale. Rather then cash back you get Ikea gift certificates. Used these and another $1300.

Faber Inca Pro hood

Light fixture- Sescolite, Burlington, Ontario

Finished kitchen, $19 thousand including all the small stuff.

I would like to thank the GW community. I found you when most decisions had already been made but early enough to make some positive changes based on the vast amount of information shared on this site. I didn't ask for much advise but I can assure you that I read everything written on the subjects that I researched on this site and then some. I do not have the incredible knowledge that so many of you do who share so willingly to those who ask but have from time to time tried to help out on the very few subjects I know a little about. I have taken much more than I have been able to give. I am grateful to have had a place that I could frequent with people who share the same desire to have a kitchen of their dreams no matter their budget. And to those who think their day will never come, keep the faith. I never thought that I would get here. After seeing so many unbelievable kitchens, big and small, elaborate and understated, new and updated thanks for looking at mine.


clipped on: 04.16.2013 at 11:28 am    last updated on: 04.16.2013 at 11:28 am

RE: Custom cabinet makers for Manhattan kitchen renovation? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: nyc_dweller on 04.23.2011 at 05:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

Great, thank you all for helping out so far! I'm going to wait a few more days to see if more people see this thread and chime in with suggestions (it is Easter weekend after all).

If you have a recommendation for a cabinet maker, please either post the contact info here in the forum thread or email me directly.

I'm not so sure I need a kitchen designer at this point. The cabinet layout and appliances selection is all done. I just need someone to build it how I want.

The cabinets I'm trying to copy I saw here on Garden Web in the "I need pictures of White Subway tile" thread ; they were from redroze's kitchen:

I've seen some other white cabinets on these forums that were great too so I am bit flexible.


clipped on: 04.11.2013 at 10:26 am    last updated on: 04.11.2013 at 10:26 am

RE: Semi custom cabinet recommendations in Long Island NY (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: dilly_ny on 01.03.2013 at 10:25 am in Kitchens Forum

I shopped extensively on Long Island, but in the end, I bought custom cabinetry from a small manufacturer in Pennsylvania. Nonetheless, I will tell you my impressions of Long Island kitchen retailers and the cabinetry sold. They all act like they are selling heirloom precious gems and getting a price out of them is like pulling teeth over a period of many weeks / months.

To start browsing, the best show rooms are Ken Kelly Kitchens (Woodmode / Brookhaven) in Wlliston Park, and Lakeville in Lindenhurst. Ken Kelly sales reps were straight forward and helpful. With just a quick look of my measurements, they gave me some excellent design advice and a ballpark price for my kitchen based on a door style I selected. Lakeville probably has the largest kitchen showroom on Long Island. You can browse, but you will need to make an appointment with a designer and sit for several hours to get any idea of pricing. We waited about 3 weeks to get an appointment and then were given a ball park figure based on Medallion cabinets, but we really wanted the price for Plain and Fancy. We were told that would have to be calculated manually and they would let us know. Several follow up calls and emails over the course of a month, and never received a price. Gave up on them. They push Medallion and I think Medallion is a nice cabinet, but I didn't like the maple tones for their stains. Medallion has three different lines of cabinets, so make sure you know what you are pricing. They also sell Crystal Cabinetry.

Douglas Kitchens in Farmingdale has a nice, large showroom. They carry several lines of cabinetry. I found the designer we worked with to be scatter brained and unreliable, but that may not be indicative of all showrm reps.

I liked Charlie at Kitchen Source in Farmingdale. We received a price within 48 hours of seelcting a door style. Small showroom, but they carry several lines including Woodcore / Proline which is a locally manufactured cabinet (New Hyde Park?), all wood construction. Proline has several wood species and about 5 door styles you can choose from with any paint or stain. As I understand it, Proline is standard sizes, but if you need a custom size, you can order a Woodcore cabinet to match. Forest Kitchens in Glen Cove also sells Proline, but they do alot of work with builders and didn't focus on our project. It took several months to get a price.

Several of my friends have installed beautiful kitchens by North Shore Cabinetry in Plainview. Their price quote for my kitchen was the highest of all I received. Nonetheless, they were very helpful and they have a nice showroom. Their price included installation. They sell Plato cabinetry and Plain and Fancy as well as some other lines.

I very much liked Jeff at Madewell Kitchens in Whitestone. Small showroom selling Jim Bishop cabinetry. Best price for wood cabinets I received. I would have went with them, but I did not like the wood tones of the stained maple. Jeff will give you a ballpark estimate if you bring measurements. I know several people who have used him and have been pleased.

I went to many more places, so if you have any questions, I can give you my impressions, but I think these were the best bets. Good Luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: Woodcore


clipped on: 04.11.2013 at 08:43 am    last updated on: 04.11.2013 at 08:43 am

RE: custom cabinet guy on Eastern Long Island (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: dilly_ny on 09.24.2012 at 11:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

I live in Nassau and I was very thorough in my search for cabinets. Long Island prices tend to be obscene, but as a resident, I am sure you already know that drill. The only place I visited out east was Perimeters in the hamptons. They sell a variety of stock and semi-custom cabinetry, but I was not impressed with their pricing or designer.

For custom cabs, I visited Nassau Woodworks in Great Neck who had lovely cabinets but were so disorganized and took so long to get me information concerning price that I would not consider them. I also visited a custom shop in the Farmingdale area, a real old school type of shop on a side street. I saw some beautiful work in process cabinets, but they didn't have too many displays or anything to entice you to order unless you knew of someone who used them.

For semi custom, I would say that Artistic on 347 has some great semi-custom cabinets and they have good designers and showroom too. Ken Kelly kitchens in Nassau County is known for their designs but they sell mostly Woodmode cabinets. Lakeville Industries in Farmingdale area has a great showroom and carries a wide range of semi-custom. North Shore Cabinetry in Plainview had a good design team and several semi-custom brands, but also priced on the high side.

In the end, I was discouraged with LI kitchen retailers and I ordered my cabinets directly from a small factory in Pennsylvania, fully custom and installed for about half the cost quoted by the shops listed above. It was alot of work on my part, but I feel it was worth it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ken Kelly Kitchens


clipped on: 04.11.2013 at 08:35 am    last updated on: 04.11.2013 at 08:36 am

RE: Felt Glides for furniture (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: forboystoo on 12.06.2012 at 11:25 pm in Flooring Forum

Mine didn't stick either..
I did pick-up something like the attached (nail on)
but I have not used them yet because my floors are not done :(

I got them at Home Depot.
They also make self leveling and swivel types.

Here is a link that might be useful:[] =material=Felt&cfilters[]=features=Nail-On


clipped on: 04.08.2013 at 12:28 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2013 at 12:28 pm

RE: HVAC Advice for a Newbie (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: weedmeister on 03.18.2013 at 04:10 pm in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

the media cabinet gives you room to use 4" filter media rather than 1". These filters cost more but last much longer.

A ManualJ is not a load test, it is a calculation. One measures the rooms for cubic footage, type of wall insulation, number and type of windows, sun exposure, attic insulation and so on. The software then computes how many BTUs of heat and cooling are required to maintain the desired temperatures in the home for local high and low temperatures.

It's good to ask to see this since they might not use the same desired temps as you would. Like 78 for summer and 65 for heating. For me, they also figured 89 as the maximum high outdoor temp. I had them use 96.


clipped on: 04.08.2013 at 11:27 am    last updated on: 04.08.2013 at 11:27 am

RE: Where do you keep your cookbooks? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: AnnieDeighnaugh on 04.06.2013 at 04:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

The end of our island faces the desk area in our kitchen and the cookbooks are stored there...very convenient for use either at the desk or the island. I also put an outlet on the inside of the bookcase which I use for charging cell phones and such.


clipped on: 04.07.2013 at 03:21 pm    last updated on: 04.07.2013 at 03:21 pm

RE: 3 Weeks demo to DONE: Reveal!!! (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: Rebeccamom123 on 03.27.2013 at 01:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sorry - forgot to answer a few other questions:

Sink is a Franke stainless under mount single bowl 28" wide, 9" deep Grande. I wanted the largest sink I could get that would fit into a 30" sink base cabinet and this was it. I really wanted an apron but my DH put his foot down on that one. I'm really glad we went with this one - i LOVE it!

Faucet is Danze Opulence single handle in polished chrome - with matching side spray and soap pump. I think it gives the room a little traditional/french country flair. I wanted to stay away from anything that would read too modern for my taste.


clipped on: 03.28.2013 at 08:14 am    last updated on: 03.28.2013 at 08:14 am

Kitchen Paint Color-let's add in some life!

posted by: kellienoelle on 03.26.2013 at 05:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am leaving my remodeled kitchen (courtesy of the help of GW) at the end of the week when I move to a new house. The kitchen there is fine (except for a misplaced sink that I am trying to get over), but is blander than bland. Way too beige for me. My plan was to live in it and eventually paint it along with the adjoining hearth type room at some point down the road. However, my mother is coming out to help me move and mentioned something about hoping to get that kitchen painted too while she is here. Now who am I to pass up some cheap labor, so am now scrambling to come up with some paint colors to spice it up a bit. Here are the pics from the listing ....the furniture is the previous homeowners. We'll be getting new furniture eventually so don't need to worry about matching current furnishings. The only adjoining room with color is the dining room which is red (and visible on the connecting wall).

So help me breath life into this "fine" kitchen.

This post was edited by kellienoelle on Tue, Mar 26, 13 at 21:27


clipped on: 03.27.2013 at 10:41 am    last updated on: 03.27.2013 at 10:42 am

good vinyl plank flooring

posted by: Jonif on 03.02.2013 at 09:32 am in Flooring Forum

i am looking for a good vinyl plank floor for my new kitchen, but with so many to choose from it is rather confusing on the best brand to buy for high traffic area. Also any suggestions on the color or shade i should consider when having white cabinets and tan/brown granite countertop. Really need help with this!!!


clipped on: 03.26.2013 at 09:43 am    last updated on: 03.26.2013 at 09:43 am

do you need a reputable soapstone dealer in nyc/li area

posted by: EATREALFOOD on 03.24.2013 at 12:45 am in Kitchens Forum

I highly recommend:

ebbcast corp.
Vance Ebbecke/Mike Castro
Read the reviews(excellent) and see photos on Houzz.
ebbcast handles all types of renovations: kitchen, bath etc.
They are CraftArt wood counter and Soapstone certified dealers.


clipped on: 03.26.2013 at 09:37 am    last updated on: 03.26.2013 at 09:37 am

Cabinet height above counters?

posted by: katy-lou on 03.22.2013 at 08:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

Argh. So I understand 18" is standard but does that include the bottom "lip" of the cabinets to hide the light rail? If we put bottom of cabs at 18" it will mean bottom of trim is at 16.5" - think this might look cramped? And KA stand
Mixer (lift bowl) won't fit - need to decide this quick but opinions on doing 17" or 17.5"?


clipped on: 03.25.2013 at 11:46 am    last updated on: 03.25.2013 at 11:46 am

RE: pics: Silestone LAGOON-alt. to torquay or misty cararra (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: lzhwong on 03.14.2013 at 07:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm currently looking at various quartz options that look like marble. I've received so much help/advice on GW that I wanted to share a picture of my samples. Hope this helps someone!


clipped on: 03.15.2013 at 10:02 am    last updated on: 03.15.2013 at 10:02 am

RE: Kitchen photos- white cabinets, subway tile backsplash, cherr (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bet129psu on 03.14.2013 at 02:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

Granite and sinks


clipped on: 03.14.2013 at 03:35 pm    last updated on: 03.14.2013 at 03:36 pm

Finished! Transitional white marble bathroom

posted by: pipdog on 08.22.2012 at 05:47 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We finally finished the upgrade of our master bath! The bath had been remodeled within the last 7-10 years by the previous owners, but it was pretty sloppy DIY job with few too many grout lines for our taste and we didn't like the tile counters. We decided to expand into a closet and make room for a separate shower.

Truth be told, I'm a little freaked out by the maintenance of the white marble (two toddlers use this bath), but so far it seems to be holding up. We did have some funky grout issues with the shower floor (efflorescence and orange spots appearing), but they seemed to have cleared up on their own. Hopefully it won't be a maintenance nightmare. If anyone has any good cleaning tips for white marble, I'd love to hear them.

I still need some artwork for the wall above the bath and some curtains, but the room is ready for prime time, and we're so happy it's over!

Calacatta Nuevo marble from AKDO - subway in shower, hex on floors and mini-bricks in niches and backsplash
Grout - White Frost by C-Cure. We originally tried Silver Shadow by Laticrete but it was too dark so we went lighter.
Counters - Caesarstone
Duravit tub
Faucets/tub fixture: Toto
Shower fixture - Raindance by Hansgrohe
BM Light Pewter
Lights - Restoration Hardware
Cabinetry - existing, sprayed with BM White Dove
Pulls from Lowes

Here's the before:

And the after:


clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 01:53 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 01:54 pm

RE: Window cleaner with cornstarch? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: measure_twice on 03.06.2013 at 12:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK, so I got all inspired and followed the recipe and tried it with black-and-white newspaper on the two worst glass panes in the house - the kitchen window over the sink and on the bathroom mirror. The exact mix varies a bit, here is the one I used from Battle of the Homemade Glass Cleaners:
1/4 cup white vinegar
1/4 cup 70 percent rubbing alcohol
1 tablespoon corn starch
2 cups warm water

Spray. Scrub. Wipe. And...

Holy toothpaste, Batman!

The window is so clear it looks like it evaporated, like it does not exist. Open air. You could put your hand through.

The mirror is eerie. It shows no surface dust to give you a clue it exists. It really looks like there is an opening into another room and there's a strange guy standing in that room. Oh crud, do I really look like that?


clipped on: 03.07.2013 at 01:30 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2013 at 01:30 pm

RE: Everything I Wanted to Know About Drawers... (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: angela12345 on 02.02.2013 at 02:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have posted this other places before, but I am going to try to consolidate it *all* in one place.

My kitchen cabinets from UltraCraft are semi-custom. LOVE them. They are Frameless cabinets that allow size modifications in 1/16" increments to height, width, and depth (or all 3) at no additional cost. So, go ahead and make your uppers 13" or 14" deep for those extra large mixing/salad bowls and charger plates, and maximize your storage space for example storing glasses 4 deep instead of 3 deep. Have deeper base cabinets. Make your toekick slightly shorter so you have an extra inch or two for more drawers height. Cut down on the fillers you need by making your cabinets the exact width you need them, instead of being forced to choose from 3" increments. I like that all my uppers are flat across the bottom (no frame/dividers between cabinets), so I could install one long plugmold and one long under cabinet light, then hide it all with lightrail at the front. Also, standard is Blum full extension soft close drawer glides, soft close doors, no charge for finished sides (like end of cabinet run), all dovetail drawers with fully captured bottoms, and bunches of other stuff is standard. 100 year warranty. Yep, I LOVE them !!!

Cabinet Decisions - I emailed this part to a friend recently, so am copying here ...
1. One of the first things to decide is what cabinet door overlay you want. Inset doors or overlay doors ? Inset doors sit inside of the cabinet box frame rather than attached to the front of the cabinet box. Overlay is further broken down into traditional overlay, partial / modified overlay, and full overlay and determines how much of the cabinet box/frame behind the door you want to show. The hinges can be exposed or concealed for all overlay styles except full overlay which only allows for concealed hinges. The overlay you choose will automatically knock out some cabinet options and cabinet mfgs who may not make that type of cabinet. (My cabinets are full overlay)
See ...
And ...

2. Then you want to decide on the cabinet boxes ... framed or frameless ? Some mfgs only make one or the other, but not both, so this will knock out other mfgs. Framed cabinets have a frame on the face of the cabinet box that the doors attach to and allows for inset doors as well as all 3 overlay styles (traditional, partial, and full overlay). On frameless, the doors attach directly to the cabinet box sides instead of a face frame. Frameless are typically full overlay, but inset is also possible. I think a small partial overlay is possible on frameless if you are using semi-custom or custom cabinets - you would order slightly smaller doors so a little of the cabinet box would show. Traditional overlay is not possible on frameless because the cabinet box sides are not wide enough to show the traditional 1"-2" of the face frame. (My cabinets are frameless)
See ... BOX - construction.asp

The disadvantage of framed is you give up useable space in drawers/pullouts and ease of access on cabinets with doors. This is because the drawer or pullout has to clear the face frame that goes around the opening, so they are narrower from side to side and also shallower from top to bottom. In a small kitchen, the extra useable space from frameless could make a big difference. Estimates say frameless gives 10-15% more space, so 100 inches of framed would be 110 inches in frameless. To me, an extra 10 inches of drawer space is huge, especially when you don't have much to begin with !! Frameless cabinets with doors also offer easier access - there is no face frame creating a 1-2" obstruction on the left, right, and top inside the cabinet doors, also there is typically no center stile between double doors in frameless.

For full overlay doors, there is very little difference in the looks of framed vs frameless. From an exterior appearance standpoint, these cabinets will basically look alike. Because the doors are full overlay, you don't see much or any of the frame and would have to open the door or drawer to see if the cabinet was framed or frameless. For inset doors, the framed cabinets would have a wider frame around the door than the frameless cabinet would.

In the below two pics, the cabinet on the left is framed, and the one on the right is frameless. Looking only at the size of the opening, see how the drawer for frameless is wider from left to right and also has more open space from top to bottom. The useable drawer space is a couple inches more in each direction in the frameless. If they both had the same size full overlay exterior drawer face on them, they would look alike from the exterior. You would not be able to see the useable interior space until you opened the drawer. If they both had inset doors, the framed cabinets would have a much wider "frame" around the door and drawer.

3. The third thing to consider is the cosmetics ... the door style you like, the drawer style (slab/flat/plain drawer front or drawer front that matches your door style), as well as wood species (cherry, oak, maple, etc), and stain or paint colors, glazing, distressing, finish/sheen, etc. (My cabinets are slab drawer, raised panel door, cherry with a chestnut stain, no additional finishes or glazes)
This website shows just a few of the different door styles available ... DOOR - style.asp

4. The fourth thing to consider is stock cabinets vs semi-custom vs custom cabinet mfgs. Stock cabinets are available in 3" width increments (cabinets have to be width of 12", 15", 18", etc), filler strips fill in gaps between cabinets and wall or appliances, you have to choose from the heights and depths they offer, and there are very few options available, which can be pretty pricey to add on. Semi-custom cabinets vary by manufacturer in what customizations and options they offer, but they offer many more options than stock and allow sizing modifications. With custom cabinets, there should be no limitations including drawings for non-standard items, custom molding profiles, door styles, alternate wood species, custom stains & finishes, construction, accessories and options. (My cabinets are semi-custom)

5. Finally, you want to consider the cabinet construction. Not that this is the least important ! It is one of the most important things. Pretty much all the other stuff is just the "pretty" stuff, LOL. This has to do with how well the cabinets are made - are the drawers stapled, dowelled, glued, dovetail ? What materials are the cabinets made of ? etc, etc.

Drawer depths
My bases are 24" deep bases and are all 20" useable interior from front to back. I'm pretty sure I could have (and definitely should have!) requested the drawers be an extra 1-2 inches deep to fill up the inside of the cabinet. I *think* the full extension glides would not have pulled out that extra inch or so, but I could have lived with that !! I could have fit my 8qt stock pots 2 deep front to back in the drawer instead of having to offset them slightly in the drawer if I had even an extra 1/2".

Some people choose to have their base cabinets deeper from front to back for a number of different reasons, for example to make the front of the cabinet even with the front of the refrigerator so the standard fridge looks like a built in/counter depth. Or they may want a larger countertop work surface. This can be accomplished by using deeper base cabinets or by using standard 24" deep bases and installing them a couple inches out from the wall then covering the full space with the countertop material. If you want to do this and order deeper bases, be sure to specify the drawers are deeper from front to back as well ! Some mfgs will still only install the standard depth drawer even though the cabinet box is larger.
(in pics below, my two standard $500 ea fridges look counter depth by recessing the wall behind the fridges only)

Drawer Heights
You can get a number of different drawer combinations ... for example two drawer could be 6-24 or 15-15, three drawer could be 6-12-12 or 6-9-15, four drawer could be 6-6-6-12 or 6-6-9-9, five drawer could be 6-6-6-6-6. These are just examples of size combinations ! I have even seen linens in 8 shallow pullouts behind doors in one base cabinet.

The height of my drawer fronts do not line up all the way around the 4 sides of my kitchen, but do line up when you are looking at any one section at a time. I have 2 stacks together that are 6-12-12 separated by a stove. On the opposite corner of the kitchen are 2 stacks that are 6-6-9-9. What helps is that my stacks are caddy-cornered across the kitchen with appliances and base cabinets with doors separating them ... it would be very hard to look in any direction where you could see the "mis-matches" at one time. Some people have drawer stacks right next to each other where the drawer heights do not 'line up' and others have all the drawer bases in their entire kitchen with the exact same horizontal lines all the way around.

My one advice ... find out the interior useable height of your drawers ahead of time. My Ultracraft cabinets are frameless so have more than framed would. They have undermount glides. On the 6-12-12 stacks, the useable interior drawer height is 4, 10.5, 9.5 (top to bottom on stack). Where this becomes an issue ... I wanted to store all of my pans, pots, etc vertical on their edges in the drawers so they wouldn't have to be stacked. The middle 10.5" drawers are tall enough for all of the casserole/baking dishes and pie tins, the roasting pan, and almost all of the pans, pots, and lids to stand on edge (the 9.5" drawers are not tall enough for a couple of those items to stand on edge). Both height drawers are definitely tall enough for all of the big pots (even the 8qt stockpot) that I own, except for the huge "canning" pot which is on the top shelf of one of my 15" deep uppers.

Obviously, neither drawer is tall enough for my 12" pans/skillets to stand on edge (arrggh!). I have really been struggling with how to store these. Right now I have them flat in the bottom of the 9.5" height bottom drawer. Big waste of real estate !! I wish I had a shallower drawer I could put the big skillets in, like 6-6-6-12 so the frying pans were flat in drawers 2 & 3 and the pots were in the bottom drawer. Or even better(?!) if I had made my drawer heights 6-9-15 that would have given me 4, 7.5, 12.5 useable. My tallest 8qt pots are 7" tall, so all of them could have gone in the middle drawer and everything on edge could have gone in the bottom drawer (including the 12" skillets!). Google for images of drawers with pans on edge.

On the other side of the kitchen with the 6-6-9-9 stacks, the useable interior drawer height is 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 (top to bottom). I use the top 6" drawers all around the kitchen for silverware, spatulas and all the other kitchen gadgets, in-drawer knife block, foil wax paper cling wrap and plastic baggies, potholders, dish towels, etc. All of those things fit with no problem in these drawers including the ladle and the box grater. The 3rd drawer holds all of the tupperware and is the perfect height for this - 6 would have been too shallow and 12 would have been too deep. The bottom drawer is where we currently keep the paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.

(note: the interior drawer heights listed above vary slightly for the bottom two 12" drawers, the top two 6" drawers, and for the bottom two 9" drawers because of an interior cross support and space to clear the granite without scraping at the top)

ALSO: the drawer face to interior useable space ratio will be DIFFERENT depending on if your drawer face is inset, partial overlay, or full overlay, and depending on if you have undermount glides or sidemount glides as catbuilder says above. For example on my 6-6-9-9 four drawer stack ... 1.5" counter + 6 + 6 + 9 + 9 + 4.5" toekick = 36" finished height. My useable heights are 4, 4.75, 6.75, 7 = 22.5" total useable height. I lose 1.25-2.25" useable height for each drawer.
Compare to quiltgirl above inset drawers ... 1.5" counter + 5.5 + 5.5 + 6.25 + 6.25 + 4.5 toekick (assumed) = 29.5". Are her cabinets shorter than mine ? No ! Add in between each of her drawers approx 1.25" face frame. She has undermount glides as well so her useable heights are 4, 4, 4.75, 4.75 = 17.5" total useable height. She only loses 1.5" useable height for each drawer face showing so it sounds like she is losing less, but she is also losing useable height in the face frame between each drawer which is why her total useable space is less.
This is FINE !! Nothing at all against her cabinets. They will be beautiful. And she knew she was going to lose space with the inset when she chose them, but chose to do it because inset is the look she loves.

Drawer widths
The maximum cabinet width my manufacturer will do for drawer bases is 36" wide. I have 4 drawer bases at 21", 32", 17", and 36" wide. The interior useable width of these drawer bases are 18, 29, 14, 33 wide, so 3" less than the exterior width in each.

Going around my kitchen ... first I have a 6" wide pullout broom closet. Next are two 30" wide fridge/top freezers. There are full depth cabinets above the fridges with an adjustable shelf. Then a 24" full height cabinet with pantry space at the top, MW, a single oven, and 6" high drawer under oven (4.5" useable height).

The 21" 3 drawer 6-12-12 is to the left of my stove. Top drawer holds knife block, sharpener, scissors, trivets, potholders. 2nd drawer holds baking dishes on their edge. Bottom drawer is basically empty - it has one 8qt stockpot. If my drawer heights had been 6-9-15 instead (did I say grrrr?), I would have used the middle drawer as a bread drawer and stored the bakeware on edge in the bottom drawer.

Next is the stove (Whirlpool GGE388LXS Electric Range w/Dbl ovens).

The 32" 3 drawer 6-12-12 is to the right of the stove. Top drawer holds spatulas, spoons, ladles, wood spoons, basting brushes, meat thermometer, etc - things that are used at the stove. 2nd drawer holds frying pans, the smaller pots (1qt 2qt 3qt), and lids all on their edges. Bottom drawer holds 8qt pots. Also, the 12" skillets with lids, splatter screens, and griddle are all stacked in one stack flat in bottom of drawer, Grrrrrrr. If they were in the drawer with the other frying pans instead of taking up real estate here, that lone 8qt pot in my other cabinet would have been here with the other pots.

Turn the corner and next is the first dishwasher and then a 36" sink base with Ticor S405D sink (70/30 double bowl). LOVE !!! <3
Turn the corner and next is a 36" wide all door base cabinet (no upper drawer) with full depth adjustable shelves. I use this base cabinet for all my small appliances - blender, beaters, toaster, George Foreman, elec can opener, etc. Next to this base cabinet is the second dishwasher, followed by an 18" prep sink base with a Ticor S815 14x15x8 sink, and an empty space for an ice maker which is where the trash can currently resides.

The 17" 4 drawer stack 6-6-9-9 sits between the trash area/future ice maker and the peninsula and is on the opposite corner of the kitchen from the other drawer bases. The top drawer holds foil, wax paper, cling wrap, plastic baggies, chip clips, and restaurant menus. The 2nd drawer is our "junk" drawer and has some of everything including screwdrivers, clothespins, matches, flashlights, sewing kit, lint brush, etc. The 3rd drawer holds medicine, bandaids, alcohol, peroxide, as well as dish towels and plastic utensils from takeout restaurants in a tub. The bottom drawer is for "tupperware without partners" - bowls and lids with no matches (haha!).

The 36" 4 drawer stack 6-6-9-9 forms the peninsula. The top drawer holds all eating utensils (silverware and kid utensils), serving utensils, chopsticks, handheld can opener, wine opener in a strategically easy-to-access location : ), etc. The 2nd drawer holds all the other kitchen gadgets that aren't to the left and right of the stove like shrimp deveiners, graters, whisks, rolling pin, pizza rolling cutter-thingy, mashers, salad tongs, etc, etc. The 3rd drawer holds tupperware with their matching lids. The bottom drawer holds paper and plastic grocery bags until we carry them for recycling.

I don't like lazy susans or corner cabinets, so in the blind corner is a 26" all door base cabinet that opens out the backside to where the barstools sit.

We went with the same size handle for all of our drawers and also only one handle in the center for all of the drawers, no matter what the width of the drawer. They are 4" wide. We maybe would have used different widths, but the ones we liked in the finish we wanted did not come in a bunch of widths. The cabinet guy said they would look fine and they do. We have slab drawer fronts and the pulls are centered top to bottom and side to side on each drawer. We used round knobs on all doors.

Drawer Organizers
We ordered the drawer divider channels from Lee Valley so we could completely customize the interior of our drawers. They often have free shipping on orders over $40.
Google for images - lots of gardenweb members have used these.
Take inventory of the things you will be storing in the drawers & doors. Measure it all and plan ahead where things will go. From the FAQs that Buehl put together ...

These are not my cabinets ... examples of pans stored vertically ...

This is my kitchen ...
 photo 4-5-11-kitchen.jpg
A note on our kitchen ... this home is a vacation rental oceanfront beach house with 8 bedrooms, 6 baths, that sleeps 26. Hence the 2 fridges, 3 ovens, 2 dishwashers. We had a large portion of our family here at Thanksgiving (32 people) and had like 7 or 8 women working to prepare the feast all at one time. Thank you Gardenweb for helping design a kitchen that WORKS !!!

This post was edited by angela12345 on Sun, Feb 3, 13 at 14:36


clipped on: 02.20.2013 at 10:09 am    last updated on: 03.05.2013 at 09:15 am

White Painted Shaker Cabinet Pricing Comparison

posted by: kompy on 05.11.2012 at 04:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

For my own personal use, I priced out a wall and base cabinet in a few of my cabinet lines to see where each line stood on price. These prices do not include any manufacturer promotions currently running. All include freight costs. I looked up...with a bit of difficulty, the prices of IKEA. I thought there would be more SKUs and doorstyles.

Shaker door style
Maple Wood
White Paint
Drawer guides: Whatever comes standard
No upgrades
Note: All are full overlay...except with Shiloh you can choose from full overlay or inset. Both are the same price right now. Ikea, Debut, KraftMaid and Plain & Fancy, all have full extension, soft close drawers as a standard.

Cost to Homeowner:
$600 to $650 for Ikea Akurum (req. assembly-$55 per box?)
$657 Debut Cabinetry: Oxford
$669 Medallion: Silverline Lancaster
$888 Shiloh: Shaker Inset (reverse raised panel shaker)
$916 KraftMaid: Atwater
$963 KraftMaid: Huntington
$983 Medallion: Potter's Mill
$987 Showplace: Pendleton
$1494 Plain & Fancy: Vogue Beaded Inset

So for 24' Lin. Ft of cabinets, costs would be:
$5,352 Medallion Silverline Full Overlay
$7,104 Shiloh Inset
$11,952 P&F Inset

I realize, much of this could change from dealer to dealer and region to region. If you add another brand of cabinet, I can add it to the list. Also some brands are higher on the extras like accessories, moldings and custom modifications. For cost comps in your area and for your kitchen, you still must do the footwork. But maybe this will help somebody.


clipped on: 01.28.2013 at 02:55 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2013 at 08:55 am

RE: I may have found my quartzite...anyone have Antarctica? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: karin_mt on 11.28.2012 at 02:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

Soibean - well, you've asked the $10,000 question (is that about the price of a countertop?) about Super White and White Arabesque. The bottom line is there are multiple rocks going by the same name. Some Super Whites are marble. Some are quartzite. So it's not that any of them are a mixture of both marble and quartzite (though I see how one could get that impression).

The important thing is to only use the name as a very rough guide to what the stone looks like, and then to use your own skills to determine what it actually is. This is where the glass test comes in. Quartzite will easily scratch glass with a clear grinding noise and biting feeling as you drag it across. Marble will slide across the glass surface with a quiet sound and a slippery feel. This test tells you what mineral the rock is made of and therefore what rock type it is.

All the details are in the original thread below. I am happy to see some folks adopting the glass test because it is a sure-fire answer to this confusing question!

Here is a link that might be useful: the low down on Super White


clipped on: 03.03.2013 at 11:15 am    last updated on: 03.03.2013 at 11:15 am

RE: a question for owners of undermount sinks (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: circuspeanut on 09.29.2011 at 01:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

Madeline, I think he's referring to the underside of the countertop rim that hangs over the sink in a negative reveal installation.

People have argued this issue for years on this forum. Honestly, I think it's just about where you prefer your gunk to be. Some are more grossed out when it's not visible, some the other way around. We all want to avoid gunk, and we all choose the sink install that will help us do so most effectively according to our own habits.

In short, your gunk choices:


clipped on: 03.02.2013 at 08:49 pm    last updated on: 03.02.2013 at 08:49 pm

RE: cabinet at the end of run next to penisula (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: may_flowers on 02.27.2013 at 08:40 am in Kitchens Forum

You don't need to go all the way to the end of the counter with cabinets, but I think it'd look like something's missing to stop at the corner. I stopped several inches from the end of the counter. I used an open display shelf for the last cab, but I also thought of using a glass cabinet or the quarter round open shelf that cabinet manufacturers sell.

When we tile the backsplash, we'll tile from the end of the upper cab. If you leave empty wall over your peninsula, you'll have a tiling dilemma.


clipped on: 02.28.2013 at 09:12 am    last updated on: 02.28.2013 at 09:13 am

RE: Hiding outlets on kitchen islands (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: labbie on 01.29.2013 at 08:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

We used plugmolds, like some folks do under cabinets to avoid having outlets in the backsplash. Our cabinetmaker was able to recess them a bit. On our island they are hidden by the countertop overhang.
Here's a photo of the one on the end, prior to the counters going in. Granted this end has the corbels/larger overhang, but even on the other end of the island, the strip isn't visible unless you bend down and look up.
(the box with outlets you see inside the island is for the beverage fridge)


clipped on: 02.25.2013 at 11:54 am    last updated on: 02.25.2013 at 11:54 am

Finished pics - Creamy white, stained island

posted by: marmoreus on 01.25.2011 at 11:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is long overdue (we finished at the end of last August), but I wanted to thank all you Kitchen forum members for the great help. Thank you, thank you!!! I've really appreciated all the great information on this site. It has been such a helpful resource as we built a house for the first time.

On to the pictures.







So far the kitchen is working out really well for us. Other than not loving the performance of my wall oven, I am happy with how it all turned out.

The details:

Perimeter cabinets: Decora (Chantille finish on maple)
Island cabinets: Sorrento (Hermosa finish on alder)
Backsplash: Walker Zanger Gramercy Park (Heirloom White and Pipe Smoke)
Granite on perimeter: Antiqued Nordic Black (love this!)
Granite on Island: Alaskan White
Pendant lights: Schoolhouse Electric
Knobs & pulls: Amerock Highland Ridge
Barstools: Restoration Hardware (bought during Friends & Family sale--20% off--yay!)
Wall color: BM Revere Pewter
Flooring: walnut w/ Waterlox finish
Sink: Shaw's farmhouse sink
Sink faucet/soap dispenser: Danze Opulence
Range: NXR
Wall oven: Kitchenaid
Fridge: Bosch
Dishwasher: paneled Bosch
Micro: cheapo GE

Thanks again!


clipped on: 02.21.2013 at 02:50 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2013 at 02:51 pm

RE: IKEA durability? (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: slush1422 on 02.19.2013 at 07:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

We've had ours with Adel cabinets in for almost 2 years now and LOVE them. Showing no sign of wear and we have 2 young kids a teen and a dog. We did a lot of custom things with the cabinets including building an island, crown molding, blind corner cabinet, installing an undercab microwave drawer and adding a spice pullout.
From STILL not finished kitchen

Decorated for Halloween:

From Beveled Arabesque Backsplash install

From STILL not finished kitchen

Before backsplash & crown:

From STILL not finished kitchen


clipped on: 02.20.2013 at 01:40 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2013 at 01:40 pm

RE: What did you introduce to your GC that impressed them? (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: lee676 on 02.19.2013 at 08:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

Cree's 4" and 6" LED disk lamps that look to all the world like standard recessed lighting, but are so thin and cool-running they don't need to be installed in a recessed housing can, just a slim electrical junction box, like the one holding up your surface-mounted ceiling light. Allows recessed lights to be installed in places they couldn't fit before because ductwork or other obstructions got in the way.

Sold at HD under their "Commercial Electric" brand.


clipped on: 02.20.2013 at 10:36 am    last updated on: 02.20.2013 at 10:36 am

RE: What did you introduce to your GC that impressed them? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: corgimum on 02.18.2013 at 01:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

We GC'ed our kitchen but the cabinetmaker liked the cabinet design that I borrowed from willtv. It was a great solution to the corner cabinet issue.


clipped on: 02.20.2013 at 10:30 am    last updated on: 02.20.2013 at 10:30 am

Finished small bath update! (Pics)

posted by: pipdog on 07.14.2012 at 12:45 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We're remodeling/updating both of the baths in our house and just finished the smaller one. It's a 3/4 bath we updated with Carrara marble basketweave tile.


I don't have any true "before" photos, but here was the tile floor beforehand. I tried about 15 paint colors in that room.

Paint - BM Nimbus
Floor - Marble Basketweave by AKDO
White subway tile in shower


clipped on: 02.14.2013 at 02:23 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2013 at 02:23 pm

Photos of modest bathroom before and after

posted by: belasea on 01.26.2013 at 08:43 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hi - I want to thank everyone for posting their pictures and answering so many questions. I disliked this bathroom so much. The grout was in horrible shape and I couldn't get it clean. It looked horrible! We were trying to make it one more year before remodeling this bathroom, but the shower faucet broke causing us to remodel quickly. We are still waiting for a glass shelf to be installed in the niche. We moved the shower head to the other side of the wall which was our contractor's idea. We're glad he suggested it because it's now feels much more open and we can turn on the water without being under it.

The sink and toilet were fairly new, so we reused them. Honestly, I would have picked a different toilet if I knew we were remodeling so soon, but before we knew we were remodeling, we managed to crack the entire toilet while trying to change the handle, hence this toilet. Not crazy about the toilet, but it's fine for now. We still have our master bathroom to do! :)

Tub - Americh Turo 60x32x18
Shower - White subway tile with honed mini brick marble accent tile and pencil liner.
Floor - 3inch hexagon honed marble
Sink/vanity - Lowe's
Faucets - Graff, Canterbury collection
Towel Train Rack - Pottery Barn
Medicine Chest - Pottery Barn - Vintage Recessed Medicine Cabinet
Lights - Home Depot with antique vianne glass shades from our old light fixtures
Paint - Benjamin Moore Chantilly Lace

The new frameless shower door is fixed. We needed a downward shower arm to take a shower without water getting out. I put a paper towel outside while I took a shower this morning and verified that all the water was staying in, minus a 3 - 5 drops of water which I can live with, especially since the bath rug will be there. We like the open feel much more than the old shower doors.

The pictures were taken with my phone and are a little dark, but here they are...

 photo IMG_0803_zps6511dc29.jpg

 photo IMG_0898_zpsb77ac93d.jpg

 photo photo-3_zps16b9df8d.jpg

 photo IMG_0889_zpsec55b88c.jpg

 photo IMG_0892_zpsf506814e.jpg

 photo IMG_0895_zps485abebe.jpg

 photo IMG_0897_zpsdd941313.jpg

 photo photo-2_zps57b93a8f.jpg

This post was edited by belasea on Thu, Feb 7, 13 at 20:29


clipped on: 02.14.2013 at 02:17 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2013 at 02:17 pm

RE: Please post pictures of your counter-tops (Follow-Up #138)

posted by: familyreno on 11.09.2012 at 10:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our counter is Giallo Ornamental ... Sink is silgranit in cafe brown.


clipped on: 02.14.2013 at 09:47 am    last updated on: 02.14.2013 at 09:47 am

RE: Please post pictures of your counter-tops (Follow-Up #103)

posted by: pipdog on 07.31.2012 at 12:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

Madre Perla/Mother of Pearl:


clipped on: 02.14.2013 at 09:45 am    last updated on: 02.14.2013 at 09:45 am

RE: Please post pictures of your counter-tops (Follow-Up #91)

posted by: babs711 on 07.30.2012 at 06:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have polished White Macaubus quartzite on the island and leathered absolute black on the perimeter:


clipped on: 02.14.2013 at 09:39 am    last updated on: 02.14.2013 at 09:39 am

RE: Would love to see pics of non-shaker white kitchens! (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: katsmah on 02.11.2013 at 11:03 am in Kitchens Forum

Here's mine.
range wall after photo kitchen_sinkstoveview_after.jpg


clipped on: 02.12.2013 at 11:07 am    last updated on: 02.12.2013 at 11:07 am