I have to say this Master Bathroom renovation was a big headache (although I planned carefully) and of course went over budget with many delays. It took over 2 months and approx. $25K.

Here are the details:

TILES: 6 X12 CARRARA VENATO HONED MARBLE TILE for the shower(from Builders Depot Direct http://www.buildersdepotdirect.com/category/19941412721/1/CARRARA-VENATO-HONED-MARBLE-TILE.htm) - prompt customer service and response
Mosaics for shower floor are hex and square for the shower accent

FLOOR: Misingi Castelvetro Porcelain Floor Tiles in Kiboto color (purchased from Fuda tile in Ramsey - prices are good there)

VANITY: Custom made cabinet from Custom Woodcraft in Passaic NJ. Tony is awesome
and the price was good. Thanks to the GW post I found about him. http://www.bbb.org/new-jersey/business-reviews/cabinet-manufacturer/custom-woodcraft-in-passaic-nj-90096625

SINK FAUCETS: Grohe Faucets 33170 in Chrome

SINKS: Deca Fireclay sink (already has a chip in the corner - not sure who did it (contractor or fabricator for the countertop)

COUNTERTOP: Glassos

SHOWER: Hansgrohe Raindance S Showerpipe in Chrome, Bodysprays and trim are Hansgrohe as well

TOILET: TOTO Vespin

ACCESSORIES: Towel bar, toilet paper holder, cabinet knobs and mirror are all from Restoration Hardware. Large Hutton Mirror. Bar and holder are from the Modern Collection. Knob is Asbury (I think)

Paint: BM Wedding Veil for the walls and trim and BM Feather Gray for the accent

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This is a new build and the cabinetry is almost a year behind schedule...long story. I'm just figuring out how to post pictures which I have not downsized. I found so many great ideas on this forum! I'll give the details I can remember off-hand, further details I will have to look up.

Countertops: polished Quartzite on island (can't remember the exact name), honed Basaltina on the perimeter

Kohler sinks -main sink is a smart divide. I switched between the smart divide and the Rohl fireclay single bowl twice. Very happy with the smart divide.

Hansgrohe faucet at prep, Dornbracht at main-both have Dornbracht soap dispensers. I put dish soap at main sink and hand soap at prep (I added the prep sink dispenser after-the-fact and highly recommend.

Pulls, top knobs

Cabintery-custom walnut veneer. I'm happy with my frameless cabinets, but my cabinet maker has more than tried my patience. He does great work, but I moved into my 4 month over schedule build with only cabinet boxes (throughout my whole house).

Butcher block-end grain walnut- I am chopping directly on it and love it!

Bar stools-From Crate and Barrel -They swivel, but not fast and they don't show fingerprints. Have been great for children!

I'm going to post more pictures showing the great ideas I got from this forum. Thanks for answering questions and posting pictures!

Here's the front hallway. The living room is on the right as you enter the front door.

From Living room

Looking into the living room from the front hallway.

From Living room

The TV is in the wall unit on the left, which means that the couch along the windows is the best place to view the TV.

From Living room

Taken from the fireplace looking towards the front hallway.

From Living room

This is the awkward entrance to the living room. It doesn't look narrow, but because of how the loveseat is positioned, it doesn't invite people into the living room.

From Living room

Looking from the dining room to the front door.

From Living room

I can't move the couch down any further because of this cabinet, which houses the stereo and CD player.

I don't have very much in the way of furniture to steal from other rooms, but I do have this chair.

From Living room

Any ideas?

Thanks!

In person, however, i liked the look of pewter much better. It's warmer and softer. Pewter is about 15% more than zinc.

But I still wish it were called zinc!

So here they are, my faux zinc ... pewter ... counters.

and a long view

To make the bubble inserts I took a 12x12 sheet of AKDO bubbles. I cut it apart and created the little glass bubble mosaics onto a piece of painters tape to match the openings that we had created.

The contractors then hung the marble on the wall and placed the bubble mosaics into the holes.

The feature over the stove is just 4 12x12 sheets of AKDO bubbles (and it's the only thing my contractors did not do well - they didn't get the sheets close enough together).

The planks that surround the bubble feature are 12x12 tiles (not mosaic) that were cut to make the frame.

Then everything was grouted with a SANDED grout. The contractors gave me a hard time on this but the tile store insisted on it and it came out looking great even though they grumbled.

It sure looks to me like there's room for a 6" tall drawer underneath (36" wide, or perhaps two 18"w drawers), based on Smeg's own installation guide - see pages 66 and 78 from the document below (which is actually pages 12 & 24 of the installation guide, but that PDF combines the user's manual, installation guide, and some pictures into one document). The dishwasher is only 22 3/4" tall. I'm not exactly sure what the purpose of that flip-out panel at the bottom in many of the pictures is, or if it's necessary in all installations.

Smeg 36"w Dishwasher Instruction and Installation Guide

I posted these in the Kitchens forum already but since they're more appropriate here:

Here's some reviews:

Homes and Garden Journal
The Appliancist

It has alot of neat features- separate water pressure zones, interior illumination, built-in water softening, various anti-flood safety features, non-exposed water heating element, two orbital wash arms. Only 43db - should be quiet.

I'm considering one for the same reason. Holds about as much as a full-height 24"w dishwasher, or two 24"w dishdrawers, but you only need one. I may fall if I lean over too far to reach the lower rack.

Below is the user guide for the UK model, which is nearly identical except for electrical requirements (the British version is of course hotter and faster, U.S. is stuck with 120V/15A power which means more time at lower temperatures). But the rack shapes and such are the same, and it may have some views not in the U.S. manual, haven't compared them closely.

Smeg 36"w Dishwasher User Guide

I am just about finished with my kitchen remodel, and I have lots of valuable information to share. I did everything from scratch, myself, and made the project more difficult than it needed to be. But in the end, the results are great. And I am glad IKEA discontinued the original fronts I was going to use. Having Scherrs build them was a pleasure and gave me the ability to have most my appliances be built in. It's going to take me a few months to detail all that I learned, but I'll start you out with a teaser video to my pet project inside the bigger kitchen remodel project.

Here is a link that might be useful: Modern IKEA kitchen remodel complete with retractable island controlled by iPhone!

Here's your list, reformatted for ease of reading (see "Curious about text in messages (adding bold, italics, etc.)", also in the "Miscellaneous Information"-->"Helpful Threads" topic.)

++++++++++++

• lay the kitchen out on the ground outside with all the measurements and walk around it to see if it felt right. I took my measurements and scraps of wood and laid them out in the various plans I had come up with.


• check out the sound of the fan in the new ovens. I would have been pretty steamed to spend a bunch on a new range and have that sound come blaring out each time I used the oven.


• putting Blumotion on the cabinet doors. This is my favorite feature in our kitchen and the cost was cheap to add these on after the cab install.


• "zones" on this forum, and designed my kitchen around them, with a tremendous amount of help from my forum friends. In my old kitchen, the dishwasher opened across from the island (right into the backs of my legs). Now, the cleanup zone is on the peninsula, the prep area is between the fridge and sink, etc. It's really wonderful.


• No air gap -- most modern dishwashers don't need them, so you don't have to have that extra unattractive "thing" on your countertop. Easy way around that if you need to pass code inspection is to drill the hole for air gap... pop it on for inspection and when they've gone take off the air gap and pop on your soap dispenser. Then put the loop in the hose at the back of your dishwasher...


• Advantium


• Miele dishwasher


• Test tube rack for spice storage


• Lay it out with tape to double check


• advice for setting up a temp kitchen


• Measure from 3 points wall to wall. Had I known this when we remodeled the entire house in 1990, I would now have the room to put in a pro-style range. As it is, I am exactly....1/4" short. Talk about frustrating! Our cabs are in great shape and I love them, but I'm stuck with the 29-7/8" width on the range.


• I really like this that I stole from Dmlove--- I love not having all those cords on my desk/countertop! So best advice from this forum... details make the difference! for now my phone sits over the hole


• pull down (rather than pull out or side spray) faucet


• Bluestar, after asking about the best 30 inch slide-in range


• batch-feed garbage disposals


• adding outlets


• Galaxy Tool Supply for our sink


• Never MT


• Plugmold


• Wide/shallow cabinet for William Sonoma ultra-thin step stool.


• Airswitch on disposal. Never minded the wall switch, but now that I have a nice backsplash and an island


• Floodstop on icemaker and washing machine.


• I put power into the back of 4 drawers, so each family member has a place to charge the cell phone (or camcorder or whatever) out of sight.


• I also have a false panel behind a niche so that the power / wallwarts / phone wire / wireless access point is hidden. Only the phone sits out exposed. Similar to the idea above, but using depth.


• Don't pack your booze prior to remodeling (this is VERY important! VERY IMPORTANT!)


• Lacanche


• caulk on change of planes verses grout...look at the underside of your cabinets


• Plugmold for under the ends of my island so I didn't have to cut outlets into my beautiful cabinets


• integrated drainboard cut into the countertop


• raising the countertop for my wall oven - which gave me a bonus "standing desk" for my laptop


• never thought I could get talked out of gas. So, that is the best advice so far


• I'm a single sink convert, based solely upon the reviews on this website.


• DH and I made a "never mt" out of tubing bought for $0.46 at Lowes. It's really not very exciting, though. It's clear tubing (like the kind you see on aquariums) attached to the bottom of the soap dispenser thing, and then extends down through the lid and into the bottom of the bottle of soap. (We just drilled a hole in the top of the bottle and shoved the tubing down.) So low tech! The tubing is something like $.23/ foot and we bought 2 feet. Super easy.


• Landing space between appliances


• Aisle clearances


• Wait until its right - the right plan, the right time, the right appliances.


• instant hot water heater


• Getting a 36" range


• baking center


• online resources for sinks and faucets


• the importance of putting functionality first in all design decisions


• how to test granite for durability


• remote blower for hood fan


• single deep fireclay sink


• lots of great online resources for sinks, faucets, etc


• Never NEVER NEVER!!!! Leave your construction site to go on vacation ::scary music:: I MEAN NEVERRRRR!!!!!


• the best (and most costly) is don't settle. You have to live with this kitchen for quite some time. Don't settle! (Even if that means you scrapped the cabinets today, called of the GC for 8 weeks while you order new ones, and you can't live in your home so you have to find somewhere else to live for three months). And maybe Santa won't know where you live!!!


• Pegasus under-cabinet lighting here. Slim, good-looking, very energy-efficient, and reasonably priced.


• I was convinced of the superiority of the Miele cutlery rack


• do not rush..get a good plan in place. Pick what you love ..NOT what the designer loves


• Brizo Floriano/pulldowns in general


• xenon lighting


• Venting


• Tapmaster


• take pictures of everything while your walls are open. It is very helpful to have that photographic record of where electric, pipes, studs etc. actually are. Also, plan for where you want to install pot/wall racks, shelf brackets, etc.--and add extra framing in the walls before they get closed up.


• Get your floor plan right!


• The Franke Orca sink ... to die for.


• Inexpensive but quality Ticor sinks for laundry and prep.


• Plugmold giving me a crisp, clean and outlet-free backsplash.


• The personal, real life stories shared here gave me the confidence to push back at the stoneyard and insist on marble for my island. It pairs beautifully with the soapstone perimeter.


• Bertazzoni range


• White America Quartzite to go with SS


• LED undercabinet lights


• internet and eBay vendor recommendations


• Hancock & Moore leather furniture (from GW furniture forum)


• Microfiber cloths for cleaning SS and granite.


• we had scaled drawings, pictures, and sketches taped to walls and cabinets all over the kitchen. A sketch of the island layout, a drawing with dimensions for light fixtures and switches, a sketch showing the spacing of shelves, a picture of how we wanted plugmold installed - you name it, we had it on a piece of paper and taped on a wall. When we would discuss anything with the electrician, plumber, etc., usually we would show them a drawing or sketch so they would know exactly what we were looking for. Then we would post it on the wall in the kitchen. It may have been slightly annoying to those working there, but it was amazing how much it helped. A number of times after someone screwed something up I would just point to a drawing and they would immediately have to take the blame and offer to fix it. There was never any chance to claim that we never told them or that we had said something else. It was right there on the wall the whole time.


• undercounter light switch for undercounter lights


• tilt-out shoe storage cabinet


• Get hardwoods instead of laminate. Once I investigated I couldn't believe at how little difference in cost between the two (good decent laminate vs. hardwood)


• This is AWESOME! I now have a list of things I had never even heard of to check on...and I thought I was on top of things!


• posters here are willing to share their good and bad experiences so that newbies like me can have a smoother reno.


• Something that I'm slowly realizing as I continue to read the posts here is that, despite the best of planning, something (or things) likely will not go as planned.


• Buy appliances available locally (so service is available), from retailers who will actually stand behind the sale instead of shifting all blame and responsibility to the manufacturer - even when they shipped a defective product. Just finished reading a long thread about someone that bought from an internet retailer, and it was shocking to see the attitude of the retailer. Forget the pre sale promises and assurances from some of these disreputable internet companies who won't be there if you have a problem and just get them locally. No small percentage of savings is worth it if you end up with a defective product shipped and the retailer says it isn't his problem. If you must buy via internet, make sure you get in writing that the product will be shipped defect-free and if there's anything wrong with the unit at all - IMMEDIATELY contest the charge with your credit card company. Don't rely on promises that a minor (or major) problem will be promptly repaired by a service company.


• learning all the lingo was great. When the contractor asked if I wanted plugmold I didn't go "huh?" I think by being knowledgeable before talking to the contractor it helps a lot.


• Knobs vs. Pulls. There have been several discussions of knobs vs. pulls. Some comments:


• Knobs on base cabinets can catch on clothing (and rip sometimes).


• Cabinets/drawers w/pulls can usually be opened w/one finger...even the pinky finger.


• Susan Jablon glass tile. Everyone who comes in my house walks up to my backsplash and has to touch it. I had just about given up the idea of a glass tile backsplash before finding out about her site on this forum. The price of her tile, even with shipping, was about half of what I could have bought it for locally and it is gorgeous!


• No sockets/switches in backsplash (under cabinet plug strip)


• Toe kick on trash pop out BUT... ADD a second spring to add power to the pop (thank you for whoever mentioned this ingenious bit of info)


• Double layered cutlery drawer (secret drawer within a drawer)


• What to look for when choosing undercabinet lighting eg... reflection, spread of light, color of light, heat...


• Benefits of a large farmhouse sink


• Miele dishwasher


• superb


• Thermador cooktop and all the controversy about the popup draft and how I could get away with not having one. THANK YOU!


• Miele warming drawer FANTASTIC and thank you for making me realize that it doesn't have to be on the floor under the oven!!!


• PLAN YOUR STORAGE SPACE. measure boxes, measure food processor, mixer, stack of plates etc. etc. then make a note of contents in the drawers or cupboards on your plans or diagrams or in your notes.


• Plug strip under center island.


• YOU ARE NOT ALONE- PEOPLE WHO CARE ABOUT YOUR CD FRIDGE ARE HERE TO HELP YOU and it's OK to really take your time with your decisions


• Orca single sink


• Pot rack in upper cabinet (I think this idea was from loves2cookfor6??)


• Electrical outlet inside a drawer for a charging station


• filling in the gap between the fridge and the cupboard above it with some leftover filler and a piano hinge. Cambro...where did you see this idea? Just yesterday we discovered that we might have a significant gap b/w the top of the refrigerator & the bottom of the cabinet above. Our contractor is just going to use filler to hide the gap, but if we put it on hinges it would actually become usable space!


• knife drawer (I hated that block)


• gel stain


• Getting rid of my ugly phone jack and getting a phone that doesn't need one!


• How to get rid of the drip inside my oven door - with a hanger and a sock going up through the holes at the bottom of the door. Worked like a charm!


• Get a spine when talking to GC about his version vs. my version of cleaning up the jobsite each day (aka our home).


• Use masking tape and a measuring tape and make a mock up of where your new cabinets will go. This is a biggie!


• Dimmer switches! I put them on ALL of the new lighting, including the patio lights adjacent, and have not regretted it once.


• how great Silgranit sinks are to live with. Never even heard of one before GW.


• Buying Sources


• Ticor sinks: Ticor Sinks at Galaxy Tool Supply: http://www.galaxytoolsupply.com/category_s/58.htm


• Tapmaster: http://www.tapmaster.ca/


• Never-MT: Never-MT: http://custominserts-store.stores.yahoo.net/nevsoapandlo.html


• Pop up Outlets: Popup Mocketts: http://www.mockett.com/default.asp?ID=469


• Plugmold Power Strips: http://www.wiremold.com/www/consumer/products/plugmold.asp


• Angle Powerstrip: http://www.tasklighting.com/ap/angle-strip.htm


• Our Vac Pan. Ours is hooked up to a wet/dry vac in the basement because we do not have central vac. The idea came from this forum and our electrician and contractor figured out how to make it happen.


• DIY on gel stain. Thanks Celticmoon and Projectsneverend.


• Soapstone, getting it, finding the right fabricator right here, and caring for it


• where to find a deal on saddle stools


• Kohler Vinnata


• Not to put my cooktop on my island.


• best advice I got was around my budget and how to make the hard decisions on what should stay in and what should go (that was from Buehl).


• What is not that important to me and doesn't add functionality? [Candidate for elimination altogether]


• What can I do at a later date? [Candidate for deferring until a later date]


• What can't be done at a later date and I can't live without? [Candidate for keeping and doing now]


• This forum helped me see which terms are worth using, and which can be saved for later. This forum helped me get clearer communication going. Resistance could be expressed when I raised ideas; it all helped to refine the concept.


• This forum helped me justify personal innovations. This forum confirmed ideas.


• Tweaking and innovating. I tweaked everything in my kitchen along the way.


• I don't know if I would have a remodeled kitchen if it weren't for this forum. I would have still been looking at the dreadful old one wishing it was nice and not knowing how to get it nice. Even the ideas & photos of things I didn't want for me helped to define what I did want.


• I have to give credit to my carpenter, too. There was a time when his eyes rolled when I said, "but the people on the kitchen forum say......." But I had photos and conversations printed off to show him what I meant.


• Lisalists organized drawers where the dividers go from front to back or side to side so you don't have to nest objects-and you can fit so much stuff in. Easy, easy access. No nesting. Yay


• Layout, efficiency. This has to be the most important thing I've been learning here. What tasks do you perform, what zones will you organize them in, what items do you need close at hand in each zone, how does traffic between and through zones flow. etc.


• Styles, materials, looks. People here have great ''eyes'' for style and looks. My eyes have been opened to these looks, and I've learned the vocabulary to describe them.


• Specific ideas/features I learned about here that seem like they'll be useful: prep sinks, base cabinet drawers, counter top materials other than granite, true convection ovens, unfitted kitchens, under-counter refrigeration.


• Many things, one of which is using a 13-15" depth cabinet for inset cabinets, as 12 is not sufficient.


• Carefully placing all the appliances and storage thinking about what you use with what. For example, I moved the microwave to be next to the refrigerator because we use it mostly for reheating leftovers. I have fridge, prep sink, prep area, range, more prep area on one side and on the other I have prep area/ landing zone (across from fridge), main sink, prep area / dishwasher (across from range, but offset so both people can work) in the island.

Here is a link that might be useful: Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens!

sorry i don't have an answer; just thought i'd insert the picture for you in case it helps.

here are 2 gwer's I copied out for my 'idea' folder hoping I could have a raised dw also.

from a local Lowe's -

You'll have to forgive these pictures ... it's been a slow process here. I'm almost finished with the table ... it's white now and I've added throw pillows. Next we paint the ceiling and the walls and then I'm done in the kitchen for awhile!

This is just the banquette. We went with a drawer off the end (LOVE IT! We keep all the dog stuff in there right by the door) and sliding doors on the longer part. Granted that is not easy to access, but I didn't want to have to move to cushion to access storage. I can get measurements for it if you need them, but off the top of my head I can tell you that it's 22 inches deep and 16 inches high with a 4-inch cushion on top.

And here it is with the table (customized, by us, to fit). We can easily seat 6 and probably up to 9 if we squish or throw a couple kids in the mix.

Table shape is really a matter of personal preference and how many people you want to seat, but do be sure that no matter what you decide, you go with either a pedestal or a trestle for the reasons mentioned above.

I worked out a scope of work with one contractor that included statements such as.

"Surface imperfections of existing drywall that is not to be replaced, are to be left in existing condition"

"The worksite is to be vacuumed by the contractor at the end of each workday"

Not everyone wants or even knows what to do with details like this. I presented a scope of work to a general contractor who said it was too specific/detailed and didn't want to bid on the project..(and I guess I didn't want him to either).

So, it sounds like this contractor wants more details.

Most of them do have shorter pieces than other surfaces at this time because of the shipping.

Paperstone is nice also.

Here is a link that might be useful: Paperstone

Here is a link that might be useful: Fuez

There's ways of getting your seams to be super tight and chip free -
I TEACH that technique at AZ School of Rock....

There's also a new seaming system that works perfectly on ALL Natural Stone
Engineered Stone and ALL "GREEN" Countertops (Bottlestone included)
it's called the Accu-Seam

There is a DIY version coming out in April - as well as the Pro Models -
Fabricators are using the Accu-Seam, along with the Seam Phantom, Gorilla Grips
and OmniCubed SSVCA and getting REALLY COOL RESULTS!!!

hth

kevin

Here is a link that might be useful: Accu-Seam

The application thet you are describing - 2CM over plywood with a SS sink
and no brackets - for THIS application - is fine IMHO....

We do this all the time - with Stainless Steel type sinks ONLY.

The ONLY negative to this method - is thet "IF" you ever have to
remove the sink for any reason (damage is usually the only one here)
you'll be "S.O.L" (sorely out of luck).....

Sounds like your fabricator is willing to work with you on this -
just make sure that he's using 5/8" and NOT 3/4" plywood, and the
plywood itself is ACX grade -and NOT a cheaper grade - like CDX (it
tends to warp really easy and has been known to effect the flatness
of the stone once everything is installed.)

hth

kevin

Here is a link that might be useful: insinkerator filter

We went with a very simple White Glass subway tile. But many people here have done some things with lots of colors to pop.

Here is a link that might be useful: glass tile store

From Kitchen Remodel

The field tile was our special find. We found it on close-out from the manufacturer Unique Building Concepts at $2/SF. They had a little more than we needed, and we bought it all. The mosaic strip is cut from a 12x12 sheet also from UBC, and is called Nutmeg Versailles. Some of the tile matches the field tile. We couldn't leave well enough alone, though, and the teal 1x1s are added in, as is a copper 2x2 from Landmark Metalworks that will go in each section. The bronze liners are from Dal-Tile Maniscalco (I think that's the brand). We also have some copper quater rounds from Landmark that aren't in the prototype to be used in exposed outside corners.

The switchplate that you can see at the lower right of the prototype was handpainted by an artist who has a company here in Denver called Taken for Granite. His specialty is matching granite patterns, but I think he did a great job matching the glass tile, given the difference in materials. We're going to have him do all of our switchplates/outlets.

We thought we'd be done this week, but now it's looking like April at the earliest.

I could probably change brands for close to the same price. Has anyone been happy with their instant hot water dispenser and if so, how long have you had it and what brand is it? Any info would be welcome at this point. I can't see spending several hundred dollars if it is just going to leak again in 2 or 3 years. Maybe I should just close up the sink hole with a moisturizer dispenser. What do you think?

One: Go through what you have now and give away or throw out the stuff you never use. How many coffee mugs do you have that you never use? How many cheapo spatulas that you'd only use if pigs flew? How many freebie koozies in the back of the drawer? How many mismatched plastic cups and plates you'd never use? How much lidless Tupperware? How many grody pots & pans leftover from your college days or Hubby's bachelor pad? Get that junk out of your soon-to-be-beautiful space! Use the 'Would I buy it at a garage sale?" test if you're not sure.

Two: Once you've thrown out the junk, inventory the stuff you have, and classify it by function and frequency of use. For example:
- One 36" drawer of daily use pots & pans,
- One 36" drawer of weekly/monthly use cookware,
- Two 24" shelves of every day china dishes,
- One 24" shelf of every day glassware,
- Two 36" shelves of fancy (Holiday) china and glassware.

Having this inventory is invaluable for planning your new space. Without it, you just won't know how much of what type of space you need, and you could end up with too little storage, or else sacrificing something you'd really like for storage space you didn't need. The security of knowing that 40% of your storage could actually go into a back room pantry (turkey roaster, lobster pot, espresso maker...) with hardly any loss of functionality gives you a huge amount of design flexibility.

Three: Prioritize lifestyle choices and preferences. Things like:
- One seat near the prep area so I can help Sonny with his homework while I cook dinner,
- Buffet zone for casual entertaining,
- Cozy seating area for two for morning coffee with Hubby,
- Open sight lines to the TV-watching area or PC so I can supervise the kids,
- Closed sight lines to the dining area so I don't have to see the mess while I eat!

This may sound crazy, but make a list of how your ideal kitchen will function, then rate the items on that list for how important they are to you. Which are deal-killers and which are 'nice to haves'? Also include what activities are daily and what are annual. There's an old adage in real estate: "Don't build the church for Easter Sunday." Apply that to your kitchen plan; plan for your maximum regular use, not for your maximum ever use.

You may not be able to get everything on your list (who can?), but at least you'll be able to choose wisely. By having my inventory and lifestyle choices, I was able to confidently choose the design that met 95% of my lifestyle wants and all of my storage needs over a design that offered much more storage and counter-top space but only 80% of my lifestyle list. Knowing that I didn't need more storage space got me a much better kitchen!

Plan in zones rather than work triangles: Baking, prepping, cooking, cleanup

Think about how you cook your favorite most often used recipes. What pots, how much prep, what utensils, any pantry goods? Now think where you will store that stuff. Will it be easily accessible or will you need to walk across the kitchen and around the island to get to the pantry, potatoes, etc? Will you need to walk with a heavy pot from your prep area to your oven to braise a stew?

Think about cleanup: Is the DW easily accessible to the eating area(s). What about storage containers for left overs? How far is the fridge to put away the leftovers. How accessible is the storage for every day dishes and flatware both to the table and to the DW's. Where will the trash be?

You shouldn't finish your kitchen and then start deciding where you will put things away. That should be part of the design process.

I want to stress this because lately I have been seeing so many GORGEOUS kitchens that don't function at all well (you may recall my friends kitchen :( ).

You can have BOTH so why settle for less. Yes, it's true that sometimes you will need to compromise and decide what is more important, form or function but that still makes you think about where things will be.

inner hidden drawer holds trash bags, etc. my trash "can" fits a 30 gallon trash bag...

these lift out bins (also from ikea) hold a ton, top is paper...

bottom is commingle...