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RE: Have you cooked a turkey on convection roast? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: rococogurl on 09.02.2013 at 03:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've done it both ways. Sort of depends on the oven and how it performs. One thing I will say is you get to know your oven doing a turkey.

alex mades some really good points: air dry the turkey in advance, get it out of a deep roaster and cook it on the lowest rack possible (heat rises).

I leave mine out of the fridge for at least 6 hours before roasting, which helps the heat penetrate. I also leave the stuffing out as well (no egg sourdough with mushrooms, onions and sage) so it's not ice cold.

I stuff and truss it then rub it lightly with vegetable oil. I also kick-start it at 425 for 15-20 minutes then I turn the heat down to 325 for the duration. That starts the browning earlier but also helps insure it will be cooked through -- so it needs to be near the bottom of the oven and it might need a sheet of foil loosely over the top at some point.

Whether I'm using convection or not, I cook it at the same temperature -- convection cooks more quickly in some ovens but that mainly affects how long it cooks.

My oven has a drip pan that slips underneath whole the rack. The one issue with using the rack method is that there are no veggies in the roasting pan and no cooked-on bits that give the gravy so much flavor. So it depends on the end result: gravy or no gravy.

More often, I put the turkey in a shallow but sturdy roaster (never a deep one) and let it rest on a bed of finely minced onions, celery and carrots with thyme leaves and a bay leaf or two. Those cook down and, as the juices start to caramelize, the veggies help form the base of the gravy. Meanwhile, I take chicken stock and enrich it with all the turkey trimming, neck, gizzard and heart.

Turkey is relatively lean, which is why it's always important to keep the breast moist. When I was editing a food magazine years ago, we did a side-by-side test of basting and no basting. Basted turkey was more moist (it also gives a base for the gravy -- guess by now it's clear I love me my gravy). So I baste as quickly as possible (opening the oven door lets out 1/3 of the heat) so the first baste is when the oven is turned down from 425 to 325 -- it helps reduce the heat. Then about 1x per hour during the cooking. I've seen turkeys take forever to cook because someone was pokey about the basting and 325 isn't a very hot oven.

I've found that the breast meat can be kept super moist by putting some stuffing under the skin all over the breast and then shaping it smooth. Great results and terrific, crisp skin that's sort of like crackling with benefits.

There is clean up in the oven after roasting a turkey though not always as much as with a chicken.

A probe is great as long as it's in the thickest part of the thigh or breast but not touching the bone. Then there's the old skewer test for doneness -- stick it in down to the bone in the breast and in the second joint -- if juices are pink it needs more time -- they run clear when it's done.


clipped on: 11.22.2014 at 04:00 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2014 at 04:00 pm

RE: Have you cooked a turkey on convection roast? (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: rococogurl on 11.15.2013 at 03:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

Happy to share the stuffing recipe, legallin, thanks for asking.

A few notes:
**There is no egg in this stuffing -- none is needed.
**If someone wants to make it richer there are two ways I've done it (though I'm sure someone will come up with something else) one is to mix in about 4 tb of unsalted butter cut into 1/4-inch cubes just before stuffing the turkey. Or add cooked pork sausage to the recipe as specified below.
**I usually use non-latex gloves when I work with the turkey and stuffing just to protect my hands from scrapes and the gloves make it easier to stuff under the breast, I find. I remove them before I truss (too slippery otherwise).
** Frozen turkeys need to be thoroughly defrosted and drained really, really well and blotted well inside. (Best to see notes upthread on handling).

Mushroom-Sage Turkey Stuffing

Makes about 10 cups

Enough for cavity and breast of a 12-pound turkey. This can be prepared several days in advance and stored in an airtight container. It should be brought to room temperature before stuffing the turkey. The recipe doubles and triples easily and a any variety of mushrooms (or a mix) can be used.

1-pound day-old sourdough bread (I use a sourdough boule), cut into 1-inch cubes
2 cups boiling chicken stock
6 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
3 medium garlic cloves, minced
2 medium onions, minced
4 medium celery ribs, sliced thinly or chopped
1-pound fresh mushrooms, wiped clean and sliced thinly (can be combo of white mushroom & portobellos, cremini or can be any mixture of fresh mushrooms or fresh combined with dried. If using dried mushrooms (cepes) strain and add sub the mushroom-soaking liquid for the stock above - coffee filter best for straining)
Salt and ground pepper
1 teaspoon dried or fresh thyme leaves
1 teaspoon dried, crumbled sage leaves, or ½ teaspoon chopped fresh sage
½ teaspoon dried summer savory, or 1 teaspoon chopped fresh savory
1/3 cup minced parsley

Put the bread cubes in a large mixing bowl. Pour over the hot chicken or mushroom broth and mix thoroughly; set aside to cool.

Heat 3 tbsp. oil in a large skillet. Add garlic and onions. Stir over low heat until softened. Stir in celery and cook over medium-low heat until celery softens; add to bowl with the bread.

Heat 3 more tbsp. oil to the skillet. Stir in the mushrooms and cook over medium-high heat until they darken and all the juices have evaporated. Add mushrooms to the bowl. Add salt, pepper, thyme and savory; mix thoroughly. Adjust seasoning to taste. Can cool, cover and refrigerate up to 3 days.

Remove stuffing from refrigerator 2 to 3 hours in advance. Stir in parsley. It is ready to use.

Note about additions: 1 pound of cooked bulk pork sausage can be thoroughly cooked, drained, crumbled and added to the stuffing. It is delicious but makes it much heavier (of course) and it makes more stuffing.

To stuff the turkey 3 ways (neck, breast, cavity)

Remove everything from the turkey cavity (I keep the neck, heart and giblet to cook in the stock for the gravy. The liver can be cooked, minced and added to the stuffing if you like or used for a pet -- otherwise discard).

Turn the turkey with the leg end facing you and check inside the cavity from the leg end for anything along the backbone -- scrape it out with a paring knife and discard the gunk and any visible fat. Check around near the tail and remove any remnants of pinfeathers with a tweezer there, or elsewhere.

Turn it so the neck end faces you, lift the neck flap and pull away all the visible fat and anything else clinging to the neck skin, taking care not to cut through the skin with a knife or make any holes in the neck skin.

Rinse turkey in ice cold water, drain well it well by upending for a few minutes. Then pat it dry inside and out with paper toweling, changing the toweling several times. Be sure to blot out all excess liquid possible inside the cavity. The turkey is ready to stuff.

Turn the turkey so the neck end faces you. Lift up the neck skin, and with your fingers, gently feel for the connecting membrane the holds the skin onto each side of the breast, which you can see. Carefully break through that connecting membrane, wedging your fingers in between the skin and breast meat and working around to make a pocket with a 1-inch margin all around. Work carefully to avoid making holes in the skin, which will stay connected to the breast bone.

Repeat to make a pocket over the other side.

To stuff, lift up neck skin and push small handfuls of stuffing into each pocket, working it down towards the cavity end. Fill the pocket evenly to form a 1-inch thick stuffing layer. Repeat to fill the other side. Massage as needed from outside to equalize stuffing and mold it to the contours of the breast.

Then stuff the small neck cavity. Pull the neck skin under the turkey, then secure it by twisting the wing tips back and under so they hold the neck skin in place (if the skin is too short to be held in place by the wings, it can be secured with a bamboo skewer or trussing nail). Wing tips are flexible and will stay put so the neck-end of the turkey rests on them.

Turn the turkey with the leg ends facing you. Pat the inside of the turkey dry again with paper toweling. Spoon stuffing into the cavity, pushing it back as you work. It can mound up outside slightly or not. Slide a piece of trussing string under the turkey tail. Pull the legs together then loop the string up and around the legs in a figure 8. Pull it tight and tie a knot to secure them.

It is not necessary to sew the turkey closed at the cavity end.

The turkey is stuffed and ready for roasting. It can be and set aside at room temperature 70-72F for 3 to 4 hours, if necessary.

This post was edited by rococogurl on Sat, Nov 16, 13 at 10:17


clipped on: 11.22.2014 at 03:51 pm    last updated on: 11.22.2014 at 03:51 pm

RE: Layout Review Requested (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: enduring on 10.15.2014 at 07:11 am in Bathrooms Forum

Thanks Nancy :)

I used an in the attic fan with 2 lighted vents in the bathroom. I used Fantech. It is reportedly quiet. I do not find it to be quiet. I like it though and it is very effective in evacuating my steam. One vent in the toilet area and the other inside the shower itself. The 2 vents join in the attic at the fan, where one vent is ducted to the outside.


clipped on: 10.15.2014 at 01:55 pm    last updated on: 10.15.2014 at 01:55 pm

Help: Quality Reclining Leather Sectional

posted by: mikla_in_florida on 07.04.2010 at 01:30 pm in Furniture Forum

I have been doing some research on the quality of currently available reclining leather sectionals (NOT home theatre seating but something that actually looks like nice family room furniture). I am looking for middle-to-high quality (a kiln dried hardwood frame, blocked, glued, nailed or screwed with 8 way hand tied or similar quality springs) if they exist. Here's what I have found so far:

Macy's Elite Leather "Miramar" and "Rolla" - turns out these are not Elite but a subsidiary of Elite called Passport Home. The salespeople could not describe the construction of the frame. Apparently it's made in China.

Thomasville's "Benjamin" - the salesperson said they used 8-way hand tied on all their sofas but when I looked underneath another sofa on the floor (not Benjamin), it appeared to be sinuous spring. I asked whether kiln dried hardwoods were used with blocking, gluing and nailing, but she muttered something I didn't understand. Don't really know how they are constructed because I can't believe the salesperson.

I have heard Thomasville and Ethan Allen still make their upholstery in NC but can't find anything on their websites about it. So I went to Ethan Allen. There weren't any reclining sofas on the floor and didn't see any on their website.

I continued my search online:

Bradington-Young - one of the best, but I didn't see anything online which had the recliner feature.

Hancock & Moore - found the Austin reclining sectional. Must find a place to see one, but apparently it is very well made.

Flexsteel - found some reclining models, but didn't care for the styling of the sectionals. I've been told that the frame construction isn't the best, but have no details on how it's actually made.

Palliser - found some reclining models, but didn't care for the styling of the sectionals. I've been told that the frame construction isn't the best, but have no details on how it's actually made.

Ferretti Interiors - I did not find reclining sectionals.

Classic Leather - I liked the Kenilworth Reclining Sectional. Must find a place to see one, but apparently it is very well made.

Leathercraft - I did not find reclining sectionals.

Of all the sectionals I saw, my favorite design was Thomasville's "Benjamin"; however, I don't know what quality it is and have heard that Thomaville's customer service is absolutely horrible, so that scares me too.

Does anyone know how some of the ones listed above are constructed? Any other manufacturers I should be considering?

Thanks in advance for providing feedback.


Reclining leather sectional
clipped on: 03.29.2014 at 10:30 am    last updated on: 03.29.2014 at 10:31 am

RE: Cathedral Window Treatment (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: chicagoans on 01.24.2014 at 01:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

Does the glaring sun come from the top part as well as from below? If not, I'd do a rod across the top of the square windows and drapes (or sheers) to the floor. If the sun also comes through the arched window, you could try something like an arched window blind, linked below. (I've never had these so can't vouch for performance.)

Here is a link that might be useful: arched window blinds


clipped on: 02.16.2014 at 09:56 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2014 at 09:57 pm

RE: Looking for Peninsula inspiration photos (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: ShoestringHaven on 02.05.2014 at 10:42 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi Sooner,

While searching online for granite for our new kitchen, I came across this photo of your bathroom (copied and pasted below). It's beautiful and exactly what I've been looking for! I realise that you posted the photo a few years ago, but do you happen to remember the name of the granite?

Or, does anyone else recognise it?


mirror w/tile up wall and sconce placement
clipped on: 02.05.2014 at 10:46 am    last updated on: 02.05.2014 at 10:46 am

RE: Dishwasher with cabinet front? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 02.05.2014 at 09:49 am in Kitchens Forum

I have a thing about dishwasher panels. I figure if you are putting a panel on the front, it is to make it look like other cabinets in the room. I did not want one panel for my Fisher Paykel dishdrawers. I had my cabinetmaker make two faux drawer fronts to go over the dish drawer.

I have single two dish drawers, one on each side of the sink.

Here is a picture of them closed. (the top two "drawers" are the dish washer, the bottom drawer is a real drawer)


toe kick valance at sink
clipped on: 02.05.2014 at 10:01 am    last updated on: 02.05.2014 at 10:04 am

RE: Finishing the edges of a backsplash (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: IliN on 11.19.2013 at 03:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

We just left it with no bullnose. I like the clean look.


clipped on: 01.17.2014 at 06:39 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2014 at 06:40 pm

RE: (Almost) final reveal (Follow-Up #51)

posted by: IliN on 11.21.2013 at 11:55 am in Kitchens Forum

scorkery you will love the tile! It was a little lighter that I was planning to go but it has nice variation and looks beautiful.
I can't remember the grout color, it was some sort of cool white, maybe the 2nd or 3rd lightest of the samples. Here is a close up!


clipped on: 11.22.2013 at 10:58 am    last updated on: 11.22.2013 at 10:59 am

RE: Show me your cabinet knobs and pulls!! (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: phylhl on 11.05.2012 at 10:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

One of these days I will figure out how to post more than one pix in a posting. This is the mudroom. Knobs and pulls are Emtek in oil rubbed bronze.


clipped on: 11.17.2013 at 09:59 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2013 at 09:59 pm

RE: So how much should LED tape lighting cost? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: elphaba on 11.14.2013 at 01:06 am in Kitchens Forum

$34 for a 16ft spool of led tape lights - this includes a dimmer and power adapter-

Ikea also sells a kit that I was first looking at but I like the looks of these hitlights - they are tinier and looks like easier to modify length - just cut. My contractor first told me about them.

It will be a while since I get to this point so I can't help with how they work but I think my contractor is expecting them to be relatively easy.

There's also an installation video on on these but I can't seem to find the one I thought I saved. If you go to and do a search for "hitlights", lots will come up.


clipped on: 11.14.2013 at 02:41 pm    last updated on: 11.14.2013 at 02:41 pm

RE: My UCL install (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: gpraceman on 06.22.2013 at 11:10 am in Kitchens Forum

andreak100 and seosmp,

There are two basic ways to dim these lights.

1) Use a regular dimmer and purchase a dimmable power supply. The dimmer would go on the high voltage side of the power supply.

2) Use a non-dimmable power supply and get a dimmer that will work on the low voltage side (between the power supply and the lights).

Option 1 is by far the more expensive option, as dimmable power supplies are much more expensive than non-dimmable. I don't think that Armacost has a dimmable power supply, so you would have to use another brand.

For Option 2, Armacost does have a dimmer that works on the low voltage side. You can mount it in a wall box, if you wish. Those are available from Home Depot.

Here is a link that might be useful: Armacost Dimmer


clipped on: 11.14.2013 at 02:35 pm    last updated on: 11.14.2013 at 02:35 pm

My UCL install

posted by: gpraceman on 06.21.2013 at 08:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

There is a little bit of a lul in our kitchen install due to a granite snafu, so I thought that I would get the UCL installed. I think that it turned out pretty well and they seem plenty bright to me. Total cost was $161 using Armacost brand LED strips from Home Depot.

 photo DSC03906_zpsde8c9875.jpg

 photo DSC03913_zps0619fea3.jpg

Needed parts were:

+ 30W power supply (Home Depot)
+ 12ft LED tape (Home Depot)
+ Snap connectors for the LED tape (Home Depot - online only)
+ 18 gauge CL2 rated speaker wire (Monoprice)
+ Wire connectors (Home Depot)
+ Terminal strip and jumpers (Radio Shack)
+ 3/4" wide aluminum flat bars (Home Depot)

I could have done without the aluminum bars, but it made mounting easier. The 12ft of LEDs was perfect for our needs, as I had just a little left over. If we wanted to, we could have added a dimmer between the power supply and the LED strips, but we like our lights bright and likely would never dim them.

Here's basically, how I installed them:

1) Cut the LED tape so there is a maximum number of LED's to fit under the cabinet, but leaving a bit of space for snap connectors on the ends.
2) Cut the aluminum bar a bit shorter than the LED strip, so the snap connectors can fit over the tape ends.
3) Peel off the LED tape backing and press onto the bar.
4) Attach pieces of heavy duty double sided tape to the back of the bar. For the longer runs, I used 3 pieces of double sided tape and just two for the shorter runs.
5) Using a 3/4" wide wood strip as a spacer, adhere the bar under the cabinet.
6) Attach the snap on connector to the end of the tape.
7) Use mini self adhesive wire clips to tidy up the wires.

The spacer makes placement easier and puts the LED's about 1-1/4" from the front edge of the cabinet frame. That distance works out well, as there is no shadow of the front edge being cast onto the counter. To make sure that polarity of the strips would not be an issue, all strips where mounted so the writing on the strips were all in the same orientation with respect to the front edge of the cabinet.

Before the cabinets went in, I installed an outlet above one cabinet, controlled by a switch. It is hidden by the crown molding. Plugged into that is the 30W power supply. The output side is connected to a terminal strip which allows connection of the two LED runs. Speaker wire runs behind the wall and to the bottom of the upper cabinets flanking our window.

 photo DSC03903_zpseec1a759.jpg

The two upper cabinets flanking the window were notched around the speaker wires. That is the only modification of the cabinets that was required in this whole install. Bullet connectors attach the speaker wire to the first LED strip in the run.

 photo DSC03910_zpsf4cfff7b.jpg

Snap connectors for the LED tape daisy chain the strips together. Once the light rail is installed, any wire hanging down a bit will be hidden.

 photo DSC03911_zps51ff5185.jpg

Though, after bending over backwards to mount these strips, I may need to get DW to give me a good back massage.

This post was edited by gpraceman on Sat, Jun 22, 13 at 11:38


clipped on: 11.14.2013 at 02:34 pm    last updated on: 11.14.2013 at 02:34 pm

RE: Rule of thumb for recessed light placement (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: GauchoGordo1993 on 11.05.2013 at 11:32 am in Kitchens Forum

There are rules of thumb (see David Tay's guidelines on the lighting forum), but they won't answer your question.

Personal preference consideration - do you prefer that recessed/ambient lights provide sufficient illumination for work areas or would you rather plan to use undercab/task light for work areas? I prefer the former, but many prefer the latter.

For the aisle between the sink and the island, if you put the lights in the middle of the aisle, then you would cast a shadow on the sink counter when working there, and you would have to use undercab or over sink lights to break that shadow - are you OK with that? That would annoy me, so I'd put the lights on that counter run 28-30" from the wall. Some folks would prefer to place them in the middle of the walkway and flip a couple more switches when they use that counter though, so you need to decide what camp you're in there.

For the aisle on the left, I'd put the lights in the middle of the aisle since there's not much counter work space on the wall and they would crowd the fridge. Same for the aisle on the bottom.

So I'd put a row of recessed lights 28-30" from the wall over the sink counter run and in the middle of the left and bottom aisles.


clipped on: 11.07.2013 at 04:27 pm    last updated on: 11.07.2013 at 04:27 pm

Plugmold, Wiremold, etc.

posted by: buehl on 01.14.2008 at 04:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

I met with my KD and contractor today to go over the final plans...demolition starts Wednesday. During our discussions, the subject of plugmold came up... So, here I am with another plugmold post...this is so far outside my area of expertise!!!

Type of Plugmold

They are planning to install a type of plugmold (wiremold?) that I haven't seen on the Forum consists of two wire channels that go the length of the strip so you can plug an appliance in where ever you can even slide the plug up and down the channels if you need to.

Does anyone have this type of plugmold? Pros/cons vs the plugmold with outlets every few inches?

Orientation of Plugmold

Also, when I mentioned that I wanted "angled" plugmold the contractor said they do "flat" plugmold up against the back of the cabinet. I tried to explain what I was talking about, but I'm not sure he understood. For those of you who did not get angled plugmold, are you unhappy and wish you had gotten angled?

I think I want angled, but my KD did say that she thinks we should order matching cabinet molding to mount the plugmold on if we do angled...does this sound right?

I'm a little frustrated with this...and it's a subject I'm not an expert on so I feel very unsure of myself when discussing it. Help!

I do have a picture of Needanap's plugmold...but I didn't have it with me.

Any and all advice/suggestions/comments welcome!


I searched the Electrical Wiring forum for info, but there wasn't much...and it's not very active... The best I could find was:

We installed ours on a 45deg angle down. Used a 2x2 furring strip ripped in half to provide a mounting surface and then mounted the plugmould on the strip at the back edge of the upper cabinets. Easy to use and easy to see.

Posted by jcthorne August 2006


Either facing down, on the wall tight against the bottom of the upper cabinets, or on a beveled strip facing down at 45 degrees or so.

Posted by brickeyee in March 2007


clipped on: 10.16.2013 at 07:46 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2013 at 07:46 pm

RE: Plugmold, Wiremold, etc. (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: alku05 on 01.14.2008 at 04:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

We did basically the same thing as needanap; mounted a wood angled block and then mounted the regular plugmold to that. Putting the plugmold directly on the wall works fine, but the angle does make it easier to use. I believe lowspark has good pictures of her plugmold mounted on the wall directly below the upper cabinets.

Here's a picture of our wood angle block. Our GC just ripped it from some redwood he had. It doesn't show, so I wouldn't pay the big bucks for cabinet-matching wood.


And with the plugmold installed:


Let me know if you'd like more pictures. Also, if you do decide to do the angled wood, let me know and I'll give you more details about it's shape. I know it just looks like a wedge, but it's a bit more complex than that because you have to allow room for the space the backsplash tile takes up.


clipped on: 10.16.2013 at 07:45 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2013 at 07:45 pm

RE: Plugmold, Wiremold, etc. (Follow-Up #54)

posted by: Matty B (Guest) on 12.30.2010 at 12:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm an electrician by trade but do mostly commercial work.
What I did not like about the outlets on the back splash was many times I've seen them not even and split between tiles. This sloppy work is most likely why homeowners are looking for options. When I did my own kitchen (#1) I had the cabinets built with a large reveal (1.5 inches) so I could mount surface wiremold boxes under the cabinets facing down. Looked great without switches and outlets on the tile backplash but a real hassel to use.(Had to bend over to plug in appliance and used a lot of the 2 foot cord.) Kitchen #2 I worked with the tile setter and left the wire hanging out of the wall where I wanted the outlet.
Tile cutter cut opening exactly in center of tile and then I went back and used a old work box. Also put outlet in first tile with cover resting on countertop. Screwless covers that are a close color match. Beautiful job! Kitchen #3 is going to be a glass tile backsplash. I was thinking of using plugmold between the countertop and first tile. Not under the cabinets! The plugmold by being mounted on the sheetrock and not the tile would make the plugmold semi-recessed. Paint plugmold if needed to match glass tiles.


clipped on: 10.16.2013 at 07:30 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2013 at 07:31 pm

RE: White kitchens with dark floors- I don't get it (Follow-Up #48)

posted by: kompy on 06.13.2013 at 11:25 am in Kitchens Forum

Posted by CEFreeman (My Page) on Sun, May 26, 13 at 11:06
"Kompy, I'm here with you about divorce and making it YOUR OWN. Permit me to yell that more loudly: YOUR OWN!!! And if it be in stages, all the better. More time to change your mind 1000 times."

Thanks CEFreeman! I love my new kitchen. It's SO me and everything I ever envisioned for my 'new' 1930's home. Someone mentioned not being able to relax in such a formal look. However, when I step in to my shoulders drop 2", I sigh, smile and just feel good. It's amazing what a space can do for you. Fung Shui, maybe? DId I get lucky on that? I think I just followed my instincts on my PLAN. If you look at my renderings....they're almost identical.

I got my tile backsplash installed this week. Painting starts soon. Now, I just need to find the perfect fabric for my pinch pleat cafe rod curtains!



clipped on: 10.14.2013 at 09:33 am    last updated on: 10.14.2013 at 09:33 am

RE: pls show me your white kitchens (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: aokat15 on 10.15.2012 at 08:36 am in Kitchens Forum

Here is our white kitchen. Our cabinets are BM China White, our countertops are Donna Sandra marble. Good luck!


clipped on: 10.14.2013 at 09:29 am    last updated on: 10.14.2013 at 09:29 am

RE: pls show me your white kitchens (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: michelle16 on 10.13.2012 at 09:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

white dove cabinets, white calacutta quartzite counters


clipped on: 10.14.2013 at 09:28 am    last updated on: 10.14.2013 at 09:28 am

Our new house is finished! My white kitchen...

posted by: nini804 on 09.22.2011 at 10:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Gardenweb friends!
You all have been so kind and I have learned so much from this site! I have been off-line the past month as we have been moving in to our new custom home. I joined GW this past winter, after our plans had been finalized by our architect...but I have incorporated so much from here into my finishes! We have a kitchen that is open to our breakfast room and family room, with a small butler's pantry between the kitchen and formal dining. I call the layout a "broken L with an island because I thought the architect was very cleaver to make the "corner" a little office space that also has the door to the pantry in it. This way, there is no "dead corner" in the kitchen. Maybe some people just starting could use this idea! :)

Anyway, here are the details:
Appliances: all KitchenAid, except for the Sharp MW drawer
in the island. Range is 36" dual fuel, with a
Cabinets: Mid-Continent, maple painted white, with soft
close drawers and doors. We chose all wood
Perimeter counters: Honed Carerra marble
Island top: Dark walnut, with a mineral oil finish
Floors: 5" wide white oak, stained 75% jacobean, 24% dark
Lighting: Pendants, Quiozel, I think. Breakfast chandy is!

Things I love so far: 1. Soft close!! Love!! Although we have it on all the drawers in the house, we only did the doors on the kitchen and butler's pantry cabs. Wish we had done it everywhere.
2. KA dishwasher and range...both of these have been wonderful so far, DW is so quiet and cleans really well. Range and oven are very easy to use and have nice, consistant heat. Plus, I think very pretty! :)
3. MW awesome, love it to pieces!
4. Under cab lights...never had these before, we have them on a dimmer, they are wonderful.
5. Walnut top...everyone who visits swoons over is a wonderful, warm surface.

Things I DON'T love:
1. Fridge! Counter-depth french door is awful! We had to buy an auxiliary fridge for the garage, and I am contemplating adding a fridge drawer to the island.
2. The distance from the range wall to the island seems a scooch too big, I think it is 48". I could have moved the island a few inches closer to the range.

I will do a seperate post about my experience with honed vs. polished marble (I have polished in the master bath.) There are pros and cons to each, I have found.

Anyway, Nini's kitchen!


clipped on: 10.14.2013 at 09:27 am    last updated on: 10.14.2013 at 09:27 am

RE: How white are your white cabinets? (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: Mom23Es on 02.18.2013 at 03:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are not done yet (as in we have to move out for two weeks so they can completely refinish all of our HW floors- long frustrating story), so I'm definitely not ready to do a finished kitchen post. Here is how it is right now, mostly finished. I LOVE the white white color of our white icing cabinets. I'm so glad we opted for the brighter white.

I took these pics with my iPhone and with only natural light.

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos
Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos


clipped on: 10.14.2013 at 09:14 am    last updated on: 10.14.2013 at 09:14 am

RE: Had it not been for "experts", what might you have left out? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: magsnj on 10.04.2013 at 04:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

If you can't figre out a way to hide them altogether, then horizontal outlets.....some people prefer them to be low.......I wouldn't have thought of it myself (expert cited: gardenwebbers)


low horizontal outlet
clipped on: 10.04.2013 at 04:08 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2013 at 04:08 pm

RE: led ucl diy (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: becky_jo on 07.26.2010 at 10:00 pm in Lighting Forum

Just ordered all the parts for our under counter lighting-yea! Can't wait to get it all in and put it to the test. Thanks to all of you for this post.
Here is a summary of the suppliers I used. This is a DIY project and we are really watching our costs.
Lights in "Nature White" and wire parts from "photonier . com" - the best prices I could find. Just send an email and they will send you the price list. Shipping was cheaper then I was quoted elsewhere.
Transformer and dimmer from "electricsuppliesonline . com". Again best prices for the products. Dimmer was about half price, transf. was much cheaper too. Their customer service was helpful. The transformer I needed was the primary one, it has to do with which side the service comes from.

We are installing the system in the walls so it will be a while before we have completed the install. However, DH says we can hook it up for a test run! I can't wait!


ucl light sources
clipped on: 10.02.2013 at 10:49 am    last updated on: 10.02.2013 at 10:49 am

RE: Bianco Antico, backsplashes and cabinet paint color... (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: redroze on 05.17.2010 at 08:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

DIYGirl - This forum is awesome isn't it??? I can't wait to see photos of your space and Bianco Antico. I never, ever tire of seeing Bianco Antico.

We painted our cabinets Benjamin Moore Chantilly Lace. Our backsplash is a colour called Chalk White, and is a handmade ceramic 2x8 subway tile from Ann Sacks.


pretty backsplash
clipped on: 09.27.2013 at 05:13 pm    last updated on: 09.27.2013 at 05:13 pm

RE: Recessed Lighting plan - how do you figure it out? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Ginny20 on 09.23.2013 at 11:20 am in Kitchens Forum

The Lighting Forum is great. When I was considering lighting, there were three or four really helpful pros over there. Rule of thumb, 35 lumens/sq ft. My recessed LED's are 2 years old. I used the dimmable self trimming Home Depot Ecosmart, made by Cree, which are even cheaper now than they were then. Cree sells their own, too, which are more expensive but have a longer expected life. Cree website also had a list of compatible dimmers.

One thing to remember - no matter how carefully you plan your lighting, after you open the ceiling the plan may need to be tweaked to accommodate unexpected obstacles like joists.


My actual kitchen portion (not including desk area, kitchen table area, and sitting area is 137 sq ft. Based on needing 35 lumens/sq ft, that would be 4795 lumens needed. The 6" recessed lights mentioned here give off 625 lumens. This equals about 7.7 recessed lights needed. However, figuring my pendants will each have at least 100 watts (but probably won't want them on at full wattage), which is about 1500 lumens each, plus there is an additional recessed light over the sink, and lights over the cooktop, I should be fine w/4 or 5 recessed lights.
clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 06:30 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 06:34 pm