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RE: Placement of 22k burners...where do you have them? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: glycera on 03.12.2007 at 09:02 pm in Appliances Forum

Here's the message I sent to another member who asked about moving the burners:

When you remove the grate and the bowl from a burner, you're looking down on the black star-shaped burner itself, with holes in it where the flames come out. The high- medium- and low-powered burners have different patterns of holes on them so you can tell them apart. The burner itself is attached to a fat gray tube that goes down from the burner for a short distance, and then turns toward the front of the rangetop. This is the venturi tube, which attaches to the underside of the burner with two screws. Back burners sit on longer venturis, front burners on shorter ones. The front end of the venturi tube is fairly wide and fits loosely over the orifice, which is a brass nipple with a tiny hole in it where the gas comes out when you turn the knob on the front of the rangetop. The orifices of low- medium- and high-power burners are different, and have to stay together with their related burners. This front end of the venturi also has the shutter that regulates how much air gets mixed with the gas, which affects the "structure" of the flame (more air gives a tight flame with a well-formed blue cone that is better than a large, loose one, but too much air makes the flame "dance" above the burner, which is no good). In addition to the venturi tube, a wire runs from the underside of the burner's igniter to the front panel of the rangetop; somewhere along the length of this wire is a black section where the wire can be pulled apart (or plugged back together again).

To relocate a burner you also need to relocate its orifice (you'll need a deep socket wrench for this). If you want to move a burner from back to front, you'll need to remove the burner from its long venturi tube and reattach it to the short one (and do the comparable switch for the front burner that you're moving to the back). When you do this, you'll see a gray gasket between the burner and tube; I found this the trickiest step because that gasket is so very flimsy you have to be careful not to disturb its position. If you just want to move a burner from one position in the front/back row to another place in the same row, you can leave the venturi attached to the burner.

If this all sounds like so much Greek to you, then you probably shouldn't try to move burners around. But if you're of average mechanical ability, it really isn't as difficult as my explanation may make it sound!

And here's information from a poster (I think jollyroger but can't be sure) from some months back, about switching burners:

SWITCHING BURNERS AROUND
The burner swap is not that difficult at all.
Just be careful of sharp sheet metal edges as the burner tubes go through the sheet metal.
There are two things that you want to get right when you swith the burners around. First, make certain that you have moved the correct burner (there are three kinds on a Bluestar) to the location you want. SAecondly make certain you switch the orifice that corresponded to the burner you move along with it.
Do two at a time and keep track of what you are doing. The difference in the orifice size between the 18K and 22K burners is not that great in terms of the whole diameter, so once again, keep track of what you are doing.
The orifice, by the way, is the brass piece that the burner tube sort of plugs into. They unscrew with the right size socket wrench pretty easily. Don't be crossthreading anything now. Be patient and wear leather gloves around the sharp sheetmetal to protect your hands.

You might want to check into the terms of the warranty to see if DIYing burner switches affects it.

Hope this helps!

---Margaret

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clipped on: 03.13.2007 at 11:01 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2007 at 11:01 pm

update (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: rdw07 on 02.25.2007 at 09:06 am in Laundry Room Forum

UPDATE

Ack - well, I'm still scared about the LG - but let me tell you where things stand. Thank you all for your advice - I was reading everything before I went out yesterday afternoon.

Checked out the Whirlpool Duet, Sports, Bosch and LG yesterday. Thought I was decided on the Duet from a local appliance place until I checked out the LG at Best Buy. In part b/c the LG is about 2" less deep than the Duet (and therefore a better fit for our space - the Duet would just fit - if it fits at all) - we decided to go with the LG. Decided to bite the bullet and go with the 2487 - for $300, let's get STEAM! Well, we need a machine right away and the 2487 was on backorder and couldn't be delivered till March 18 - unacceptable!

So - long story short(er) Best Buy brought the price of the 2688 washer and dryer down to the price of the 2487 (plus $40)! How could we pass that up? Plus 2 years 0% interest and $250 off to match a sale at Home Depot! The price of the 2688 came out to $1149 which I think (correct me if I'm wrong) is a great price for the 2688.

Pedestals were $179.99 each! (we decided not to stack) and I need to see if I can find them for less anywhere.

Of course, now I am still freaking out over the amount of $$ this will be and wondering if I should (a) - just go back to a much less expensive - but good top loader or (b) look for a less expensive frontloader (maybe the LG 1812 or WM 0462 recommended by consumer reports) - I never imagined I would even contemplate spending so much on a washer/dryer.

I figure I have until tomorrow to cancel the order (washer being delivered Wednesday) and I am still SO CONFUSED!

Any additional advice welcome - I really don't *need* all these bells and whistles - going to think long and hard today about whether there is a less $$ FL out there that would still suit our purposes. (as cool as steam is - we just don't *need* it).

Thanks for all of the advice so far and I'd appreciate any other thoughts and comments!

oh yeah - dross - I agree with you that I'm not counting on 15-20 years which is why I am so freaked out by this purchase. For this price - this thing should be folding my clothing and putting it away for me!

Thanks all!

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clipped on: 02.26.2007 at 04:50 pm    last updated on: 02.26.2007 at 04:50 pm

RE: Yet another Advantium question... (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: artemiss on 02.14.2007 at 06:15 pm in Appliances Forum

Kevin, here's the first dish I cooked in my Adv:

1 whole chicken, rinsed and dried. Soft butter (about 2T), minced fresh parsley & rosemary, 2 cloves minced garlic, salt and pepper, & a little olive oil, mixed together. Spread butter mixture between the skin and flesh of the chicken, being careful not to tear the skin. Put into an ovenproof dish (I use Corning or Portmeirion), place the dish right on the metal turntable in the Adv, set it for Whole Chicken...and 20 mins later you are eating some really good roast chicken!

Have fun with it.....Artemiss

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clipped on: 02.21.2007 at 11:46 am    last updated on: 02.21.2007 at 11:46 am

RE: Bluestar flame adjustment (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: mrblandings on 01.21.2007 at 08:20 am in Appliances Forum

To adjust the air mixture, you have to lift up the star burner unit up a bit, and move it towards the back of the range slightly to expose the orifice. It will only move so far, as it is connected by the igniter wiring. The orifice is located at the end of the gas tube (towards the front of the range). Once you expose it, the adjustment is pretty obvious -- you just move the shutter to make the opening larger or smaller. The only tool needed is a philips screwdriver to loosen the orifice screw. The process involves some trial and error, as you have to make adjustments with the burner off, then put it back together to see the results.

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clipped on: 02.11.2007 at 03:16 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2007 at 03:16 pm

RE: Help With FL Washer Selection (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: redneck on 01.27.2007 at 07:52 am in Laundry Room Forum

Have had the 9400 with 9250 dryer for a week now and after getting the washer sitting right, love them. Clothes are very clean and dry fast. Only thing about my dryer is I don't see how the wrinkle guard feature can really work as it just tumbles a couple times, then stops for awhile ... then after a few minutes repeats. To me the clothes would wrinkle with the little bit it tumbles, but it isn't a problem for me as I'm used to getting my permanent press clothes out as quickly as possible anyway as my old dryer didn't have all the bells and whistles this one does. Bought them at Lowe's also. One thing about the doors is if your dryer needs to be on the left side of the washer your doors will open up against each other. I would have liked the option to reverse the doors, but only the dryer door will reverse and you need to order a door kit to do it.
Dee

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clipped on: 02.11.2007 at 02:43 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2007 at 02:43 pm

RE: largest capacity FL with internal heater (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: dross on 12.01.2006 at 12:40 am in Laundry Room Forum

The Duet 9400 and Kenmore HE4t (nearly identical machines) both have heaters. The same machine is also sold as Maytag Elite and by Kitchenaid.

For performance and engineering quality I would recommend the Bosch Nexxt/Siemens Ultrasense line. For quality of service network (and stackability), as well as cycle flexibility, I would recommend the Whirlpool/Kenmore/Maytag/Kitchenaid machines. The LG machines are interesting and attractive, but are no longer competitively priced, and from posts here service sounds like a nightmare. - DR

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clipped on: 12.10.2006 at 10:16 pm    last updated on: 12.10.2006 at 10:16 pm

RE: Placement of undercabinet fluorescent lighting? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: judeny on 10.24.2006 at 08:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

It's been posted on this board that fluorescents should be towards the back but I don't know the source of that info and I found that the back put too much light on the backsplash and not enough on the counter.

My GE Profiles are very much like your Junos. I wanted the maximum light thrown on the counter where I needed it to work and secondarily to bounce off the backsplash. Mine are about in the middle with the curved diffuser towards the front. I arrived at that location by torturing a friend to hold the fixtures in different positions while I examined the illuminated areas and sat in various positions in the room to determine whether the fixture was visible. That was after having the electrician install them at the front of the cabinet only to discover that there was no space to get my fingers in there to remove the diffuser to change the bulbs. The first hole was covered by the fixture in the second location.

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clipped on: 10.25.2006 at 12:11 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2006 at 12:11 pm

RE: I need the perfect washer and dryer for my family...please he (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: supermommy on 10.01.2006 at 10:30 pm in Laundry Room Forum

I just got the Duets (9400 washer and 9250 dryer) and had them stacked so that the laundry room is "roomier". I've only had them for 2 days but I've done 4 loads of laundry and really like them stacked. Aesthetically, it might take me a few weeks to get used to them being stacked, but ergonomically I like how they operate that way. And my three kids (a 4yo and 1yo twins) love watching the washer through the window :)

The amount of clothes I can do in one load is fantastic!!!!

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clipped on: 10.02.2006 at 10:44 pm    last updated on: 10.02.2006 at 10:44 pm

RE: What's the deal with fabric softeners? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: darlene_tn on 09.20.2006 at 08:04 am in Laundry Room Forum

I never use fabric softeners have always used white Vinegar. I bought a downey ball and put white vinegar in it. The vinegar takes any soap residue out during the rinse cycle and its a natural fabric softener! Alot less exspensive too! I do not use dryer sheets for the same reason as it puts a sticky residue on your clothes. I had always used them until one day my towels just seemed so flat and non absorbant. I did some research and found that the dryer sheets residuegets embedded into your fabric and flattens them instead of them being nice and fluffy. I started using dryer balls that I purchased off ebay (asseenontv) they work great!! My sheets used to be wadded up in a ball when i would take them out of the dryer using dryer sheets. Now that I use dryer balls (2) there's no big wad of sheets! My towels are like they were new nice and fluffy and highly absorbant! I can only fit 3/4 of the towels on my rack that I used to fit all of them on.
My daughter came to visit for a few days and showered here ect... after her shower she said mom how do you make your towels so fluffy? mine aren't like that! So i handed her a set of dryer balls!!! she's been thrilled every since. I now use my dryer sheets as filters for my heat & air vents!
Darlene

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clipped on: 09.21.2006 at 10:03 am    last updated on: 09.21.2006 at 10:03 am

RE: I need the perfect washer and dryer for my family...please he (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: wblynch on 09.20.2006 at 03:56 pm in Laundry Room Forum

You might want to look at the Sears Kenmore HE2T or the Whirlpool Duet Sport HT systems.

Also see the Frigidaire 7000ES.

These all have on board heaters for extra sanitization.

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clipped on: 09.21.2006 at 09:59 am    last updated on: 09.21.2006 at 09:59 am

RE: help! help clear alzak trim (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: catluvr on 09.17.2006 at 11:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

jerzeegirl, thanks for the photos--I'm sure they help people who have NO idea what the difference is. The only qualifier I'd like to add is this: recessed lighting is intended to "go away", and in lighting, we recommend those recessed lights that blend in when the lights are ON, because for us that's when it's most noticeable. That's why many lighting people will suggest black over other colors.

The other thing I like to point out is that we (as lighting people) are assuming that these effects are most noticeable as you live and move through a space. It is understandable how, when shopping and upon installation, the first thing you want to do is LOOK UP. This is not, however, the point of the exercise. It is to see (or not) the fixture from your peripheral view, as you would when looking into a living room or working in your kitchen. "Glare" as we use the term isn't what is seen up near the bulb or what you can see standing close or directly beneath the fixture--it is simply any reflection and/or light bulb image when standing away from it, looking across a room. That's why we say white has more glare than clear or black. The pictures jerzeegirl has shown are examples of what is called "cut-off angle" and "flash point", and it illustrates a recognized effect in recessed lighting. Some cans have better cut-off angles than others (again assuming walking underneath or looking across, not standing under and looking up). If jerzeegirl's photos are an example of flash-point, then Chiefneil's photos (if you saw them--I was going to link the thread but the pics are gone) are an example of low-glare. You'll notice a huge difference in the perspective that the pictures were taken. Since cheifneil's pics are gone, I'll still link the thread because I also posted some pics using the same perspective. It's also a really good discussion about different trims and their purposes.

I'm not criticizing anyone's personal choices, only to try to explain in words what I'm seeing in photos. I hope it helps people make a reasonable choice for them.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cheifneil's recessed trim thread

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clipped on: 09.19.2006 at 03:06 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2006 at 03:07 pm

RE: Anderson, Pella, Marvin - Construction, Performance & Price (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jersey_jamie on 08.22.2006 at 04:12 pm in Windows Forum

We actually just went through this process as we are building a new home in New Jersey. We currently live in a 1911 colonial and after dealing with the maintenance of the original wood windows, there was no way that my husband wasn't going to get maintenance free windows for our new house. Just to give you an idea of how long we researched windows, we got our first estimate in January and didn't order the windows until the end of June. We visited many different showrooms and spoke with many different reps. We also spoke with people we know who have each type of window and did research with consumer reports, etc. Our 40 Marvin Ultimate Clad Double Hung windows with 1 1/8" SDL grills and our 2 sets of french doors with transoms in the upgraded wineberry color just arrived on Thursday and they are GORGEOUS.

We were also comparing the Marvin Clad, the Pella Architect Series and the Anderson Woodwright. Every response we heard and all of the research said that the Anderson and the Pella were comparable in price, so that wasn't an issue, but they said that based on construction they wouldn't choose Anderson. We also ruled out Anderson because if you pressed on the center of the glass window, it really gave and felt really flimsy, the others felt substantially stronger. So that narrowed it down to Pella and Marvin. Next we looked at the cross sections of each window. The exterior of the Pella has wood that is wrapped in the cladding material and there is a space where water could easily get behind it and rot the wood. The exterior of the Marvin is 100% cladding, no wood, so you never have to worry about rot. That was the deciding factor for us, next to not having a significant price difference.

We were 100% leaning toward Pella because our cousin works for the main factory and we were getting a 30% discount (FYI - there is a 100% mark-up on windows). So we got the best possible quote from Pella (verified by our cousin), which came to $35,000 and change, for a standard color, standard hardward, and the smaller grills. We got our Marvins in the upgraded color with the larger grills size for $39,000.

A few things that we learned regarding pricing from the process is that for both Marvin and Pella, selecting a non-standard finish (we love oil-rubbed bronze) for the hardware adds thousands of $$$$ to the price, while upgrading the color and grill size really doesn't add that significantly to the cost. So we chose to get the standard white hardware figuring it will be covered by window treatments and it will blend in because we are painting the interior of the windows glossy white (we ordered the windows pre-primed).

If the cost is prohibitive for the Marvin Clad, you should look into Marvin's Integrity series. The principles are basically the same except the exterior cladding material is made from a different material and you can't customize the windows (two choices of hardware colors, and only a few choices of exterior colors). Also if you have obscure shapes and sizes you might have to mix and match the windows with Marvin Ultimates. The other difference with the Intergrity is that the hardware to get the windows to tilt out is recessed in the top ledge next to the sash lock, where with the Ultimates it's part of the sash lock. If we couldn't have afforded the Ultimates we were going to definitely go with the Integrity over Pella.

Don't get me wrong, Pella is a great window, but for the $$$ Marvin just had more advantages. Pella can easily such you in because they have a lot more cosmetic features that Marvin doesn't (e.g., vivid view screens (you can't tell there is a screen on the window) and those blinds in between the window panes), but I think that hands down Marvin is better quality and construction.

I hope the novel that I've just written helps. If you have any questions, please feel free to e-mail me.

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clipped on: 09.07.2006 at 02:01 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2006 at 02:01 pm

RE: Odd angles for radiators running under a bay window. What to (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mr.havac (Guest) on 08.24.2006 at 12:41 pm in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

Try taking a short length, say 3 feet, of 3/4 copper tubing and heat it with a torch to the point of cherry red. Now you can bend that tubing to any angle you need. Depending on the size of the window you will need several shorter lengths of baseboard and then connect them with the custom bends you made. As for the covers, you may have to do a little metal bending but you should be able to come up with something that looks pretty decent.

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clipped on: 08.24.2006 at 01:34 pm    last updated on: 08.24.2006 at 01:34 pm

RE: Bay vs Bow (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: guy_exterior_man on 08.17.2006 at 09:11 am in Windows Forum

The only difference between a Bow & Bay is there layout. The Bow window has four or five even units composing the window. The Bay is always a picture window flanked with operating units. If they can make an 18" casement they can make it with no problem. The only difference would be the degreed angles from the house. Hope this makes sense! Good Luck!!!

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clipped on: 08.17.2006 at 11:05 am    last updated on: 08.17.2006 at 11:05 am

RE: How to Choose Right Size of Floor Tiles? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bill_vincent on 08.16.2006 at 10:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

AS far as diagonal vs. straight laid, the biggest difference is that when laid straight, optically, it breaks the room into increments of whatever size the tile is, while when laid diagonally, it's more design oriented. That's my own feeling as to why diagonal layouts look better. No matter WHAT the reason, it DOES always look better.

As for special challenges, there are a few. First, because each tile covers so much area, the cuts are alot of times alot more intricate, where one wall meets another, or where there are doorways, etc.-- anything other than a straight cut. Also because they each cover so much area, it's extremely necessary that the floor be perfectly flat. otherwise, the slightest bump in the floor will make a corner of the tile stick way up from the plane of the floor's surface. It's very much an unforgiving tile to work with.

One last tip-- make sure your installer puts thinset between the subfloor and the backerboard, as well as under the tile. It's necessary to the longevity of the floor, and if he balks at it, find the website for your particular backerboard, and show him where it says that not using the thinset under the backerboard will negate any warranty from the company. (It's on every one of em)

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clipped on: 08.17.2006 at 10:51 am    last updated on: 08.17.2006 at 10:51 am

RE: Bluestar part 21 (Follow-Up #149)

posted by: ellene613 on 08.16.2006 at 01:13 pm in Appliances Forum

B2pi: From your questions, it appears you are asking whether there are Shabbos or yontef (Sabbath or Jewish holiday) issues with the Bluestar. The short answer is that Bluestar does not need a Sabbath mode. It's very old-fashioned that way. To answer your questions one by one:

Is there a light in the oven? How does one turn on or off the light in the oven? If it's a door switch, is it overrideable?
The oven light is controlled by a manual toggle switch. Opening the oven door or changing the oven temp will not affect the oven light.

Is there a light which tells you when the system is pumping heat into the oven (i.e. a heating indicator)?
There is a heating indicator light that is on when the oven is heating, and is off when the oven is not heating.

Can one use the oven without the convection fan?
Yes.

Will the oven hold a low temperature (180-220F) for a long time (24+ hours)?
Yes. Lowest temp is 150F.

Does the oven have an automatic shutoff after 12 hours, and is this overrideable if so?
There is no automatic shutoff, even for 3 days.

Another plus: the oven has such good thermal mass that you can heat up dinner in the oven before Shabbos begins, turn off the oven just before Shabbos, and your dinner should still be piping hot when you're ready for it.

One thing to be aware of is that the burner electronic ignition wires cannot easily be disconnected from the wiring to the oven glow plug, so you'll want to have any burner(s) you plan to use already on before yontef.

AtHomeIn1914: We are waiting for bids and building cabinets, and are finally expecting to get this remodel started soon. The colors look very nice -- technicolor Bluestars is a current discussion topic with DH.

CTKathy: To the best of my knowlege you cannot change the grill location, at least not on a 36" or 48".

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clipped on: 08.16.2006 at 04:10 pm    last updated on: 08.16.2006 at 04:10 pm

RE: What is a Bluestar range??? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: cpovey on 08.15.2006 at 08:37 am in Appliances Forum

In adition to the 22 K burners and great burner design, the top of the grate lifts off to make a perfect holder for woks. The burners, besides being inceredibly hot, can also go very low. Gas company professionals are amazed at the tiny yet stable flames the burners produce.

Bluestar ranges have the largest ovens available for home users, the only oven that can accept full sheet pans or even more importantly, two half-sheet pans-i.e. cookie sheets-per rack. This means, with three racks standard, a Bluestar can bake six sheets of cookies simultaenously. They also sport a terriffic broiler, and really simple, electronic-free, easy-to-service construction.

In addition, there is the history of the range. About 10-15 years ago, Garland(one of the two largest makers of professional ranges) decided to get into the home range business, to compete with Viking. So they modified one of their medium duty restaurant ranges to meet home safety requirements, then had Prizer-Painter, a company with a 100 years history in the industry, make the range. Prizer already assembled ranges for Garland, so it was not big deal.

Then a few years ago, Garland decided to get out of the domestic range business. and turned over rights to the range to Prizer Painter. They had to change the name, of course, and came up with Bluestar, then added the 22 K Burners and other improvements.

And it doesn't hurt that Julia Child used a Garland range. That range is now in the Smithsonian.

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clipped on: 08.16.2006 at 09:50 am    last updated on: 08.16.2006 at 09:50 am

RE: fixtures required for airtub/shower combo+handshower (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: debr on 04.04.2006 at 06:25 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hi Valinsv
I just finished doing a similiar bath-air tub/shower combo and used the Grohe Movario shower system. It has a 36" or longer bar so that the shower handle slides up and down the bar. It's high enough to use as a standing shower but can be lowered down far enough to use as a hand held in the tub or anywhere in between. I set mine up with a diverter spout in the tub with volume control and temperature control handles but there are other ways to set it up if you don't want 2 handles. The shower system is great and would work perfectly with the set up you describe-I love mine.

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clipped on: 08.15.2006 at 04:29 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2006 at 04:29 pm

RE: Shower hardware, and faucets don't come with valves? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: dmlove on 08.01.2006 at 10:09 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Thermostatic control allows you to set the temperature you like and leave it there. Then everytime you turn the shower on (via the on/off/volume control, which is one of the "trim" pieces to which jamesk referred), the temp is the same, so if you like a 98 deg. shower, that's what you'll get, every time. Pressure balance doesn't regulate the temp. You still have to adjust the hot/cold balance to get the temp. you want. Pressure balance just does the trick of preventing hot water surges when someone flushes the toilet etc. Thermostatic control valves are more expensive than pressure balance valves.

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clipped on: 08.15.2006 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2006 at 12:21 pm

RE: Going Bluestar instead of Wolf (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: alexr on 07.15.2006 at 02:05 am in Appliances Forum

The distributor will set up someone to service your range, if you have a problem, call them first. The Island trim does sit above grates because Bluestar's grates are flush with top of range.Electric outlet has to be 3" or less above floor, if behind range and if range is against wall; outlet can also be to either side of range at almost any reasonable height for cord to reach. If the range is pulled out from the wall a couple inches, then it doesn't matter where the outlet is .

Gas comes into lower left rear (as you face the range front)and there is room underneath to run flex line from either side or bottom rear.By the way, if you live in Earthquake area there is a small device that fits between the shut-off and the flex line that automatically cuts off the gas if the flex line breaks. These cost about $15.

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clipped on: 07.17.2006 at 10:09 am    last updated on: 07.17.2006 at 10:10 am

calibrating burners for bluestar rangetop

posted by: louism on 05.12.2006 at 12:19 am in Appliances Forum

I love my 48" bluestar with grill. I feel like I should have the burners calibrated. has anyone done this and who would you recommend I call to have this done. thanks in advance.

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clipped on: 06.07.2006 at 04:09 pm    last updated on: 06.07.2006 at 04:09 pm

RE: Sconce Lighting in basement (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: logicalone on 02.08.2006 at 08:38 am in Basements Forum



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clipped on: 06.09.2006 at 02:45 pm    last updated on: 06.09.2006 at 02:45 pm

RE: French Drain (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: msafirstein on 05.20.2006 at 01:13 pm in Basements Forum

I don't know...but I get a sick feeling in my stomach every time I hear of someone putting in a French Drain. Do they work, YES, but problem is they are only a temporary fix and eventually the Drain fills with silt and you are back to square one.

It is best to hire an excavator to come out and grade the land around your house, thus directing the water away from the foundation. I would also suggest consulting a horticulturist, not a landscape designer, but someone that knows physical characteristics of plants, trees and scrubs that would help use the run off. An Aborist can also be helpful. This way you can control the water and enhance the value of your home at the same time.

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clipped on: 06.09.2006 at 02:43 pm    last updated on: 06.09.2006 at 02:43 pm