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How to reduce the size of your pictures when posting

posted by: lowspark on 10.15.2010 at 08:55 am in Kitchens Forum

I have a hard time viewing very large pictures here because they just don't fit on my screen and I find myself scrolling up & down trying to get the whole idea. In addition, they make the type stretch out so that I have to scroll side to side to see it.

There is a way to specify the size of your picture so that it is a reasonable size. All you have to do is add a height parameter to your html code. The larger the number you specify, the larger your picture will be. And this will work regardless of the original size of the picture.
Hope this helps!!

<img src="http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm288/low-spark/Kitchen/IMG_3181.jpg" height=200>

produces this:

<img src="http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm288/low-spark/Kitchen/IMG_3181.jpg" height=400>

produces this:

<img src="http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm288/low-spark/Kitchen/IMG_3181.jpg" height=600>

produces this:

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clipped on: 10.23.2010 at 08:24 am    last updated on: 10.23.2010 at 08:24 am

RE: More layout help?? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: alice462 on 07.09.2009 at 12:00 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm not sure if this will be of any help at all, but thought I would chime in about laundry room design. While not five children, our three boys can certainly generate dirt and stuff and more dirt and more stuff. I knew that the laundry would become "command central" and tried to think of ways it could be utilized by everyone!

This is a picture of a portion of the space, that was actually our old kitchen. Used and messy, but not quite finished.
Photobucket

The grey portion of wall in the back is actually now my "foot sink" as my contractor came to lovingly refer to it. It is tile like what is found in commercial kitchens so it has a texture and does not get slick when wet. Tiled about four feet up the wall and built a shower curb in the front. Also, wanted a color that I did not worry about cleaning. The pipe coming out of the wall now has a faucet that I linked below. I chose not to have a traditional laundry sink b/c I was in greater need of a place to throw muddy boots, shoes, cleats, wash vegetables from the garden, wash out paint brushes, can even bathe the dog in there if I need to. I fill a bucket with water right there when/if I need to soak laundry. I have found that if I can get feet washed off, it is just as easy to get the kids to their shower or bath upstairs for a full "cleaning." I measured my laundry baskets and my carpenter built the sectioned platform that the W/D are on. I fit three baskets under there and sort the clothes. We also had to work with an existing chute, you can see coming down in the corner. We purchased a length of laminate counter from Lowe's and cut it to fit on top. Too high to be of any use for folding, but it does provide another surface for storage (actually clutter gathering, mostly). This room is most of our old kitchen space, the entry into this room is adjacent to the new kitchen entry and it has become a great traffic pattern. Everyone stops here first, unloads and then goes into the rest of the house. Has significantly cut down on the "trails" that I was constantly chasing before. And, while it is a "pass through" room, there are doors on both sides that I can close to hide/deny the mess.

Photobucket
This is my desk area to the left as you are facing the W/D. Continuing left we created a short hallway and lined it with cubbies on both sides. Small open locker area with hooks high and low and drawers underneath for shoes. We are a family of five, but put in six for balance and have found it great to have the extra spot. When friends come over they have a place to deposit their backpacks, shoes, etc.

Photobucket
Finally, the opposite cubbie wall and and what was our old kitchen table is now my folding table, directly across from the W/D. The kids also use this for projects, etc. and it is great b/c as a small separate space they can leave their "work" out beyond meal times.

This got way longer than I intended, but I think I put almost as much time into thinking about my laundry room design as I did into my kitchen. We had to work around some existing walls and structure and I wanted to use every square inch I could and I knew that I would be spending a significant amount of time in here. Good luck on your project, you seem to be off to a fantastic start!

Here is a link that might be useful: faucet

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clipped on: 07.09.2009 at 07:43 am    last updated on: 07.09.2009 at 07:43 am

RE: backsplash disaster (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bill_vincent on 05.29.2009 at 10:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Never never never use mastic to set glass. Never. not for any reason. My pick (as in, it's what I'm using tomorrow to set a glass backsplash) is Mapei's Ultralite in white. The tile will stay up just like with mastic, but with none of the "issues".

By the way, in case I forgot to say it, NEVER USE MASTIC WITH GLASS!!

:-)

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clipped on: 05.30.2009 at 07:35 am    last updated on: 05.30.2009 at 07:35 am

Foot pedal modification for KraftMaid - pic heavy

posted by: cdnmuminpa on 01.10.2009 at 04:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

After doing a ton of research on this forum I decided to splurge and buy the Hafele foot pedal to open our 18" trash/recycle pull-out by KraftMaid. I consulted my DH (who would be doing the install) and he said it should be no problem with some modification.

We used the Hafele 502.15.220 designed for pails that hang from a rail. Of course it had to be the more expensive one at $59.00.

We studied the instructions and pictures posted by metoo2 and another post of hints and tips by lowspark (I think). In case anyone else is interested I thought I would post our solution.

The cabinet is face framed and there is a pre-drilled hinge hole at the bottom of the door interior.
pre-drilled hinge hole

Had to fill the hole in order to attach the steel plate.
plate problem

You could use a piece of dowel the right diameter or use a hole saw and a scrap of wood. Caution should be taken as the hinge holes could be metric - some adjustment for sizing might have to be made.
hole fillers

Measure the depth of the hinge hole to determine the thickness of the plug.
measure depth

Using the table saw to cut the plug.
plug cut to proper thickness

Plug inserted into existing pre-drilled hinge hole and glued with carpenters glue.
filled hinge hole

Plate ready to be attached to cabinet door.
fill hole attache plate

Picture shows how the rail is mounted in the cabinet. The bungee is supposed to be hooked to the back of the carriage but the mount blocks any access for it.
rail problem

Offending rail bracket from another angle.
rail problem 2

Solution: added an eye screw 7 1/2 inches from the back of the frame (ymmv) on either side. This allows the bungees to open the cabinet door exposing the garbage can in front and part of the recycling can in the back. Adjust to your liking.
bungee to eye screw

Bungee attached to eye screw at top and the base plate at bottom. Notice it clears the offending bracket.
bungee hooked to frame

Bungee attached and trash bucket in place.
bungee with can in place

Left base bracket installed near the front of the cabinet.
bungee base bracket

No other modifications were necessary with the exception of using longer bolts to mount the foot pedal on the face frame. Just follow the pictograms that come with it.

Thanks to the hard work of my DH, I am now gleefully opening my trash/recycle cabinet hands free and it is worth every penny!

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clipped on: 01.10.2009 at 08:20 pm    last updated on: 01.10.2009 at 08:20 pm

Infinite thanks! We are finished!

posted by: jaymielo on 11.17.2008 at 05:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

I want to send out a huge thank you to all the people who lent me advice, opinions and their experience in the last 2 years. I'm an eternally grateful! Pulling those last few things together proved to be very painful, but we are finally almost there. I'm sure some of you observant TKOs will notice the few remaining items to be done, but this is as good as it gets. Here is an overall shot of the space.

Photobucket

Details... The cabinets are Amish made of quartersawn white oak with miniwax Red Oak stain. The floors are quartersawn red oak with no stain. The counters are Green Mountain Original soapstone.

This is our nook. The table, which we had custom made, comfortably seats our family of four for casual dinners. We have two more chairs and 2 leaves which we can add for a little bigger dinner. The secretary in the hutch folds down and provides a writing surface plus a place to stash mail and odds and ends.

Photobucket

The kitchen itself sits behind the nook. The formal dining room is through the door at the end of the kitchen. I wanted to wine fridge and "real" fridge as well as the pantry on the edges of the kitchen so they could be accessed by guests or the kids without getting in the way for the cooks.

Photobucket

We have additional seating for four at the island, which is handy when we are cooking for company or for breakfast or snacks for the boys.

Photobucket

The faucet is the Kohler Simplice and the sink is the ever popular single bowl Ticor. I'm very happy with them both. You can also see our giant cutting block in this picture. For a while we toyed around with the idea of making part of the island butcher block, but I'm happy with the compromise we struck. The fridge an Amana French door.

Photobucket

The range is a Blue Star 36", which is dream to cook on. The hood is by Futuro and the backsplash was custom made by Artistic Abode based on some line drawings I provided.

Photobucket

The Micro is an Advantium 120. It is a convection so it serves as our second oven and we are really enjoying the combination of that with the Blue Star range. Our reach in pantry has custom made cafe doors which match our cabinets and a pendant light which matches the pendants over our island and in the nook.

Photobucket

And here is the pantry itself. It is small but mighty!

Photobucket

Thank you again to everyone who patiently contributed to my threads. Building this kitchen was a pleasure. I wonder if I'll ever get to do it again...

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clipped on: 01.07.2009 at 01:02 pm    last updated on: 01.07.2009 at 01:03 pm

RE: toe kick drawers (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: loves2cook4six on 12.12.2008 at 09:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, I can tell you for SURE that mine are way higher than that. It all depends on the profile you are after. Mine come up into the the cabinet so I have one shallow top drawer for utensil storage, placemats etc, then 3 usefully deep drawers including the toekick area. The front of the drawer follows the profile of the toekick/cabinet so there is a little shelf in the front of the drawer.

These three pictures are the toekick drawers in the Butler's Pantry before the handles went on. BTW, we delibrately left off the handles on these drawers so the finished bank looks like there are only 6 drawers when in fact there are 8

Open:

Drawer removed from cabinet so you can see the carcass

Closed

And this is one of my best toe kick drawers. You open the toekick drawer and inside are two more draws for storing cans. It's in my prep area so right where I need it. Talk about maximizing storage

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clipped on: 12.13.2008 at 12:56 pm    last updated on: 12.13.2008 at 12:56 pm

BLING! Bathroom done... Lots of photos.

posted by: pharaoh on 11.30.2008 at 12:14 am in Bathrooms Forum

Here is my long awaited DIY Bathroom Remodel. We are calling this 99% finished :)

Original Finishes 60s cultured marble counter, 70s metallic wallpaper, 80s peel-n-stick vinyl tiles, no shower

My main Design aesthetic was BLING!

Finishes Polished, high gloss, clean
Primary Shapes Square and sharp
Colors Metallic, white, transparent, brown
Materials Wood, marble, chrome, glass, crystal

Duration 1 year to design, plan, shop and import
6 months from demolition to completion

List of projects
1. Vanity Floating vanity made from bubinga, an African rosewood. Finishes in gloss waterlox varnish
2. Mirror frame Bubinga
3. Shower panels Bookmatched Bubinga with 5 coats of marine varnish
4. Shower doors Hydroslide from CRL, 3/8" starphire glass
5. Shower panel Wood and chrome (ebay)
6. Toilet - Ebay
7. Shower wall and bathroom floor Pure white Sivec (Macedonia) marble 18x18 (over Schluter ditra/kerdi)
8. Bathroom walls- Custom made Starphire glass tiles 4"x18"
9. Tile inserts Swarovski 1"x1" Foiled crystals
10. Sink Marble vessel sink
11. Faucet Chrome waterfall vessel faucet
12. Towel bar, tissue holder Chrome Danze Sirius
13. Sconces Candice Olsen Chrome/Crystal Sconce
14. Chandelier Chrome Snowflake with Swarovski crystal
15. Countertop " Tempered starphire glass with 4" chrome standoffs
16. Window Aluminium double glazed with laminated privacy glass
17. Door Laminated privacy glass
18. Door lever Chrome Omnia
19. LED lighting - under the floating vanity and edge lit glass wall tile

Before

During






After








































Finally, the LED mood lighting (cycling color)

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clipped on: 11.30.2008 at 12:24 pm    last updated on: 11.30.2008 at 12:25 pm

RE: Room for doorless shower here? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: terriks on 10.05.2008 at 10:45 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here is a picture of a bathtub converted to a doorless shower. Maybe you could do something like this.

Photobucket

NOTES:

doorless shower idea
clipped on: 10.06.2008 at 08:04 am    last updated on: 10.06.2008 at 08:04 am

RE: Beeswax/Mineral oil Paste for Soapstone. Need new source (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: staticfritz on 06.02.2008 at 03:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

Making your own is really very very easy...
I made over a gallon for ~$30 shipped

I found about 2/3 mineral oil and 1/3 beeswax worked for the best consistency.
just melt them in a pan together over very very low heat, pour into a container and let cool.

get the best food-grade extra light mineral oil here:
http://www.steoil.com/catalog.asp?productgroup=70fg

this is an example of a beeswax off ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/100-Pure-Beeswax-1lb-Block-Cosmetic-Grade_W0QQitemZ150253418883QQihZ005QQcategoryZ134295QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

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clipped on: 06.10.2008 at 10:27 am    last updated on: 06.10.2008 at 10:28 am

Soapstone DIY finally complete!

posted by: don_chuwish on 03.23.2008 at 04:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

Friday night I was amazed to find myself putting the final piece of backsplash on. Saturday was spent mostly cleaning up and putting things away.
Thanks to everyone who has posted info that I read or answered direct questions, this forum has been invaluable. Now it's my turn to reciprocate. I don't pretend to be a pro or any kind of expert, but I hope this helps from a DIY standpoint.
I'll link a few pictures in this posting, but you can see the whole gallery on Photobucket, each picture has comments and between them they pretty much tell the story. Album is here:

http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g267/d_roady/DIY%20Soapstone/

Some teaser images:













Various parts of my story in progress have been posted in other threads, but I'll try to mention some key points here.
We were very interested in keeping cost down, so the DIY option with soapstone was wonderful to discover. A quality granite or Silestone install would have been triple the cost.
We went to M. Teixeira in N.J. and picked our slabs. If I had it to do over I would NOT have chosen two side by side slabs. The vein patterns are too similar and end up repeating each other in our kitchen. Out of 4-5 side by side slabs I'd take the 1st and last, for example.
When planning how the slabs will be cut, I'd suggest the backsplash pieces be taken from exactly the same spot as the counter they will sit on later, so that the veins and everything match.
Black epoxy was best for 99% of the seams in our install, but where it crossed a white vein I had to make some corrections - digging the black out with a Dremel and replacing with "Instant Install 29" epoxy, which cures to a translucent white. The Instant Install 29 is great to work with, 14 minute working time and then it suddenly hardens up, locking things into place. You can sand it 15 minutes later (thus the name, 14+15=29). It can be tinted to match the stone too. 5 minute epoxies are too fast for big seams I think.
Make sure your cabinet tops are a perfectly even plain, 6' long levels help. Shim any and all gaps - none of mine were more than 1/16". Then get a bead of caulk on the cabinet tops before resting the stone on them. This just makes for perfectly even support all around. We used bottle jacks to lift the stone up a few inches, caulk under it, then set it back down gently.
Doing the caulk and a seam at the same time is daunting, but the caulk has a long setup time, so it works out OK. You can slide the stone over an inch to close the seam after buttering on the epoxy. Jam it as tight as possible to make a thin seam. Most important for a good looking seam is to have the two stones perfectly aligned - any height difference will have to be fixed by sanding one down to match the other.
Diamond cutting and shaping tools are great. They cut the harder parts of the stone just as well as the soft parts, which makes for nice straight lines and even surfaces. A diamond grit drum on an angle grinder is great for shaping the edge of a sink cutout, for example. Regular sandpaper drums don't do as well.
The dust from cutting and shaping is amazing, wait till it's warm and do as much outside as possible. If you can't, like me, then get a good fine particle dust filter for your shop-vac and always attach a collection hose to the tool, or have someone hold the hose right at your cut. It makes a huge difference.
When cutting you need to support the stone underneath, so it won't fall away and break off before the cut is done. I had 1/2" thick styrofoam sheets available, but thick rubber mats from Costco would work too. The photo album shows a good example of this in practice.
For final sanding I tried a million things. What worked best on the flat areas (to clean up seams) was a 5" wet sanding pad on a dual action polisher at its lowest speed. I used a Porter-Cable 7336. Sanding pads were 240 and 400 grit. For a backer pad I used a flexible one made for car buffing, rigid pads were too hard to handle. For product specifics, see my other post on this topic. Edges can be sanded with a good hand block and wet sandpaper. The highest grit with any benefit I found to be 400. Others may stop at 220 or 340 - just a matter of preference.
I feel like there's a million things to say but this has rambled on enough. Happy to answer questions and add details in follow up posts. But if you're looking for tips, please do check out the full Photo bucket album. There's 80 images covering every step of the way.

Thanks again everyone and happy Easter!
Don

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clipped on: 06.10.2008 at 09:40 am    last updated on: 06.10.2008 at 09:40 am

RE: Bill V - quick tile install question - butt tile to cabinets? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bill_vincent on 06.03.2008 at 06:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

When laying the tile - should I butt the tile right up againts the cabinets - or leave the same width grout line as is used elsewhere?

I'll usually leave 1/16- 1/8" caulk joint in places like that. Just make sure it's uniform.

I know I use matching sanded caulk for the horizantal line between the tile and granite. How about between the tile and the cabinets? If I don't butt the tile up against the cabinets, what would I use there - grout or caulk?

Already answered. :-) (DAMN I'm good! LOL)

my light rail molding has a rounded edge - I planned to do all my cuts on a wet saw (but I do have a grinder also). How best to cut the tile with a rounded edge to fit around the light rail molding?

Either or-- whichever's easiest for you. If you use the grinder, obviously make sure you're wearing safety glasses, and use a continuous rim dry diamond blade..

NOTES:

use siliconized latex caulk at counter joint to prevent cracking or separation after settling
clipped on: 06.10.2008 at 09:07 am    last updated on: 06.10.2008 at 09:08 am

RE: jodi in so calif---your tile backsplash? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: jodi_in_so_calif on 03.15.2008 at 03:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi,

Thanks for the compliments!

Yes, the backsplash is from a California tile maker by the name of Jeffrey Court.

I bought the spice rack from Costco here is Southern CA about three months ago. It's made by Olde Thompson. I went to their web site and they do not appear to carry the one I have for some reason. Maybe it's exclusive to Costco. I like it so much I'm thinking of buying a second just in case I break a bottle or two. I think it was only $25 and in large part the reason I went with our particular backsplash. LOL (said, only half joking)

Kitchen backsplash and Aspire outlets

To the left of the photo is a niche carved out of the backsplash. The spice rack was supposed to fit inside the niche...until we discovered the over the stove microwave was much deeper than first thought. We all conceded that the spice rack looked just fine in the corner. :-)

Jodi-

Here is a link that might be useful: Olde Thompson

NOTES:

$15 sq ft
clipped on: 06.10.2008 at 08:49 am    last updated on: 06.10.2008 at 08:50 am