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Reveal: TINY bathroom turned into powder room

posted by: pinkpaula on 06.27.2014 at 03:45 pm in Bathrooms Forum

At some point years ago, a previous owner of our 1910 house decided to SQUEEZE an extra bathroom into a 5'x6' area stolen from a bedroom. The result included a 3'x3' one-piece fiberglass shower unit, an elbow-bruising 23" wide area for the toilet, and a cramped spot in which only a small pedestal sink would fit. Simply horrid.

Since this "bathroom" is located at the front of the house and enters into the foyer, we hired a contractor to renovate this space in order to create a powder room for guests.

I'll include the 'Before" picture in this post, then the "After" picture in the next post. The pedestal sink is in the corner across from the toilet.

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clipped on: 06.27.2014 at 10:35 pm    last updated on: 06.27.2014 at 10:36 pm

RE: What was your best bathroom remodeling decision? (Follow-Up #61)

posted by: teachbls on 08.13.2007 at 09:04 am in Bathrooms Forum

Best decisions:

Ditched the Yarmouth Blue paint for Beacon Gray (both by BM); hated having to ask DH to do it over, but I really wasn't happy with it, and am glad I spoke up when it was still easy enough to change it (i.e., before the tile work went in)

Ditched the carrara basketweave floor for the ceramic pinwheels (Chloe, American Olean) - a screw-up w/ Design Expo precipitated this decision - so, so glad! The decision to switch was made in a matter of minutes, and with the support of posters here - I couldn't be happier with it!

Ditched the wood wainscoting for white subways w/glossy black pencil liner. The upkeep with wood (painting every so often, worries about splashes from three little kids) was not something we looked forward to; the subways look so sharp, clean & classic!

Also very happy that the tiler knew enough to work w/the self-spacing tiles. I prefer that the grout lines be minimal (white for the walls, "silver bullet" for the floors).

Toto Drake toilet was a good choice, too - though I'm surprised that the lid itself is of such an insubstantial plastic.

The choice to do the carrara tub deck in 4 pieces (rather than one) was a HUGE cost-cutter. The seams are imperceptible. I am grateful that our awesome GC let us know this was an option. To do it the way we did was half the cost of what a single slab would have been - still pricey, but such a stand-out in the room that we are very happy with it.

A decision in progress: don't know whether we'll regret this, but we are leaning towards a shower curtain, as opposed to a glass door. The doors are just so wildly expensive - I am so ambivalent about glass - I'd just as soon save that $$$ and put it into the kitchen project instead.

Good luck, everybody - we've got a few more details to go, so I may amend this list down the road...so interesting to read of everybody's experiences!

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clipped on: 03.05.2014 at 10:48 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2014 at 10:48 pm

RE: calcatta marble alternatives (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: KevinMP on 10.10.2012 at 08:41 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I don't think that the fake calacatta tiles at Lowes look anything like the real thing, and they have a strange texture, too. The closest I have ever seen was a porcelain tile Rex Bianco, but it was expensive. I was able to shop around earlier this year and find a leftover lot of calacatta gold honed for $13 a square foot, which while not cheap is a great deal. I am currently redoing my kitchen (not a full re-do) and shopped around again to find 4"x4" calacatta gold, and I was able to find enough to finish my backsplash, and again got a decent deal $15 per square foot. It just takes patience and a willingness to spend more money than for ceramic (like I said, the porcelain was expensive). Plus, it's marble, which is classic and goes a long way for resale value if well maintained.

If you can find a place that purchases from Stone Partnership in New Jersey, you can get good deals on lots that they are closing out. That's where I got my 4"x4".

Here are the 9"x18" ones I used in the bathroom:

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Here are the 4"x4" I am using now (excuse the pictures, my contractor finishes on Friday):

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Here is a link that might be useful: Stone Partnership Link

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clipped on: 01.31.2014 at 10:34 am    last updated on: 01.31.2014 at 10:34 am

Stressing over my bathroom remodel

posted by: prbetsi75 on 01.24.2014 at 05:23 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hi everyone. I'm new here and wish I had found this forum before purchasing all the materials for our remodel. I probably wouldn't be stressing!

I am questioning all the tiles we bought for our remodel. While I like them individually, I don't think they're going to work together. I am afraid it's all going to look too dark. The floors will be espresso color. The vanity is also espresso. The counter top will be a beige granite. The tile for the inside of the shower will be beige. We wanted to have a feature wall (wall where the vanity will be). We saw so many pictures with beautiful stacked stone accent walls....and wanted to incorporate that look into our bathroom, but the woman at the tile store said if it can't be grouted, it can get mold behind the tile. So hubby picked out a slate (because it has texture) that I now feel is just going to be too dark with the dark floor and vanity. He's insisting it won't be too dark because the walls will be painted a light color.

Am I crazy? Or do I need to change this tile???

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clipped on: 01.30.2014 at 02:38 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2014 at 02:38 pm

bathroom tile FAQ's

posted by: bill_vincent on 07.01.2008 at 09:31 pm in Bathrooms Forum

This is going to take me a while, so I'll post as many as I can each night until it gets done. To start, here's the first set of questions and answers:

Okay, here we go. These questions come from the thread on the discussions side where I solicited questions from everyone for this thread. These are in the order they were asked:

Q) What are the different types of tiles you can use in a bathroom and what are the advantages/disadvantages of each?

A) There are several types of tile available. They fall into two general groups: ceramic and natural stone. I'll take these one at a time:

Ceramic tile-- For purposes of this discussion, there's glazed conventional, unglazed porcelain, and glazed porcelain. All three are good tiles for bathroom use, but the porcelain is a better choice only because of its density and lack of water absorbsion, which makes upkeep and cleaning easier. Also, with reference to steam showers, you DO NOT want to use natural stone, being that the steam would tend to permeate into the stone even more readily than liquid water, and could end up giving you algae problems, as well as mold and mildew problems, unless you don't mind being tied down to your bathroom.

Natural Stone-- There are several types of stone that are used in bathrooms. It doesn't necessarily mean that they're all GOOD IDEAS for bathrooms, expecially the softer (and more absorbant) stones, such as slate or limestone. Now, I know I'm going to get a world of flack about this from epople who have bathrooms finished in these materials. I know they CAN be used.... so long as you're aware of the extra upkeep involved. But if you're someone who doesn't like to keep after things, you may want to pick an easier material to maintain. Generally speaking, the softer the stone, the more the upkeep. Limestone being the softer of the stones, and that would include travertine, next would be many slates (although some would actually be harder than even most marbles, such as brazilian and british slates), then marbles, with quartzite and granite rounding off the list as the harder and more dense stones that you could use.

Q) What should I be sure to look for when choosing tile for a bathroom?

A) Short answer-- something that you like! The bathroom is the one place that just about anything the showroom has can be used. The only limitations are basically the upkeep you want to put in, and slip resistance on the floors of your bathroom and shower. Now, although ceramic tile is basically maintenence free, you don't want to use something with a texture to it that will catch all kinds of junk in the shower, making it more difficult to keep clean. At the same time, you don't want to use a polished stone or bright glazed ceramic tile for the shower floor, either. These both CAN be used, but again, it comes down to upkeep for textured wall tile, and doing something to rectify the slippery floor.

Q) Where should I use tile and where not?

A) Tile can be used on every single surface in the bathroom, if that's what you like. This is all a matter of taste... for the most part. About the only place where there's a requirement is any place there's a showerhead involved. If tile is to be used either in a shower or a tub/ shower combo, The tile MUST go up to a minimum of 72" off the floor. Past that, it's up to the disgression of the owner.

Q) What size tile and what layout patterns to use in various areas?

A) Again, this is a subjective question that can really only be answered by the owner. The ONLY place where there's a recommendation for mechaincal reasons is on a shower floor. TCNA recommends that mothing bigger than 6" be used on shower floors due to the cone shape of the floor's pitch. In addition, most installers will request no bigger than 4", and prefer a 2x2 tile to work with on the shower floor. This is also advantageous to the homeowner who'll be showering in there, because the added grout joints will add more traction to the floor.

Now, I've heard many times that you shouldn't use large format tiles in a small area like a powder room floor, and if you have a wide open bathroom, you don't want to use real small tiles. My response to both is the same-- HORSEHOCKEY. I've done bathrooms both ways-- 24x24 diagonal in a 3' wide powder room, and 1" hex ceramic mosaics in an open 100 sq. ft. bathroom floor. The rule of thumb is if you like it, it's right!

Q) How do I find/choose someone to install the tile?

A) Many people will tell you to get names from the showroom you get your tile from. This is no good, unless the showroom is willing to take responsibility for the installer by either having them on payrool, or as a subcontract. Then they have something to lose if they give you a bad installer. Many people will also tell you to get references and to actually check them out. This ALSO doesn't work. I've been in this work for just under 30 years now, and I've yet to find a single installer who ever gave the name of someone they had a problem with. They say even a blind squirrel will find a nut once in a while. The same can be said for "fly-by-nights" and good work.

So if you can't trust recommendations, and checking references is a lost cause, what do you do? REVERSE THE PROCESS!! Instead of finding an installer and getting references, get references, and thru them, find your installer!! No matter where you live, if you drive around, you'll find constructions sites and developements. Stop and ask who the GC uses. Get a name and phone number. Sooner or later, after asking around enough, you're going to find that the same names will begin to show up time and time again. THESE are the guys you want to use. But don't expect a bargain price, and be prepared to wait, because these guys will be in high demand, even in the worst of times, and they may demand a bit higher price, but they'll be worth every penny, if for no other reason, just because of the peace of mind they'll give you in knowing you're getting a good quality installation. Ask anyone who's gone through this experience, good or bad-- that alone is worth its weight in gold.

Q) What are the proper underlayments for tile?

A) There are several, and I'll take them one at a time:

CBU (cementitious Backer Units)-- This is the term that generally covers all cement boards (such as Wonderboard or Durock) or cement fiber boards (such as Hardibacker). This is the most common used tile underlayment. Generally speaking, it comes in two thicknesses-- 1/2" and 1/4"-- and each has its use. !/2" must be used for wall installations, due to the fact that the 1/4" is way too flimsy with nothing to back it up, and would flex too much to last. Besides, the 1/2" CBU will usually match up nicely to most sheetrocks. The 1/4" is used for floor installations, unless the added height of the 1/2" is needed to match up to other floorings. Being that neither has very much structural strength, so long as the subfloor is 3/4" or more, the 1/4" CBU is all that's needed. Keep in mind that even though it's basically fiberglass reinforced concrete, the only thing it adds to the floor is a stable bonding surface, so the 1/4" will do just fine. One place where alot of contractors will try and shortcut is by using greenboard instead of CBU for shower walls. This is expressly forbidden in the IRC (International Residential Code) by the following code:

IRC Greenboard Code:
The 2006 International Residential Code (IRC) states in
Section R702.4.2 that "Cement, fiber-cement or glass mat
gypsum backers in compliance with ASTM C1288, C1325
or C1178 and installed in accordance with manufacturers�
recommendations shall be used as backers for wall tile in
tub and shower areas and wall panels in shower areas."

The 2006 IRC also states in Section R702.3.8.1 that
"Water-resistant gypsum backing board [Greenboard] shall
not be used where there will be direct exposure to water."

Membranes-- There are several around that work well over many different surfaces. Most of them are what's called "Crack Isolation Membranes". Just about every manufacturer has one, from trowel ons or roll ons, such as Hydroment's Ultraset or Laticrete's 9235 or Hydroban, to sheet membranes such as Noble's CIS membrane. All will give the tile a little more protection against movement than just going over CBU. However, there's another class of membranes called "uncoupling membranes" of which the most popular by far is Schluter's Ditra, that are made from bonding two layers together, usually a fabric fleece backing and a plastic sheeting with dovetailed waffling to "lock" the thinset in place ( as opposed to accepting a thinset BOND). These membranes will, as their name implies, uncouple their two layers in case of movement, to save the floor, and for thinset floors, it's the most protection you can give your tile floor.

Plywood-- This is one where I get the most flack. I'm one of a dying breed that still believes in tiling directly over plywood. However, I can very well understand the reluctance of the industry to embrace this installation method, even though the TCNA DOES approve of its use for interior installations (Those with a handbook can check Method F-149). The reason I say that is it's a very "tempermental installation method. You need to be very familiar with what you're doing, or you risk failure. There are even many pros I wouldn't trust to tile using this method. Everything you do is important, from the species of plywood used, to the direction the grain is laid with relation to the joists, to how it's gapped, and a host of other specs, as well-- many of which won't be found in the handbook, and if you miss just one of them, you're flirtin with disaster. All in all, when people ask me about it, I tell them that with the membranes available, there's no need to go directly over plywood. There are other methods that will give you just as long lasting a floor, and aren't NEARLY as sensitive.

Mudset-- This is the oldest, and still, after THOUSANDS of years of use, the strongest installation method available. In a mudset installation, a minimum of 1 1/4" of mortar called "drypack" (mixed to the consistancy of damp sand) is either bonded to a concrete slab, or laid down over tarpaper or 6 mil poly with wire reinforcement, packed, and then screaded off to flat level (or pitched) subfloor. This is what most people see when tiling a shower pan. Initially, the mud will be a somewhat soft subfloor. But over time, if mixed properly, it'll be stronger than concrete.

Q) What are the proper tile setting compounds?

A) This is one where I could write a book. It all depends on what kind fo tile you're installing, and what the underlayment is that you're going over. I'll give a generalized list:

Polymer/ latex modified thinset: For all intents and purposes, this is the "cure-all". For almost any installation the modified thinset, which is basically portland cement, silica sand, and chemical polymers added for strength, will work. There are some that are specialized, such as the lightweight non-sag thinsets (such as Laticrete's 255 or Mapei's Ultralite), or the high latex content thinsets (like Latictrete's 254 Platinum or Hydroment's Reflex), but with the exception of going over some membranes, there's a modified thinset for every installation.

Unmodified thinset: This is the same as above, but with no polymers added. It's usually used in conjunction with a liquid latex additive, but will also be used mixed with water for going over some membranes. It's also used as a bedding for all CBU's.

Medium Bed Mortars-- This is a relatively new class of setting mortars, used mainly for large format tiles, where the normal notched trowels just don't put down enough material, and with thinset, it would be too much, causing too much shrinkage as it dries, causing voids under, and poor bond to, the tile, but at the same time, there's not enoough room for a mudset installation. This mortar is usually used with either a 1/2x1/2" or 1/2x3/4" notched trowel.

Mastics and Premixed Thinsets: THESE HAVE VERY LIMITED USES!! Let me say that again-- THESE HAVE VERY LIMITED USES!! They work well for vertical installations, where the tile used is 8x8 or less, and it's not a wet area. ALL THREE of those conditions must be met!! I know just about every pail of type 1 mastic says it can be used in showers except for the floor. DON'T BELIEVE IT!! Also, both mastic and premixed thinset (which is just mastic with a fine sand mixed in to give it bulk) claim they can be used for floor installations. Unfortunately, for the amount of material needed under virtually all floor tiles to bond to the subfloor, neither of these will fully harden. I had a personal experience where I helped a sister in law across country, telling her husband exactly how to do his main floor, what to use, and how to use it. Unfortunately, he went to the big box store to get his tile and materials, and they talked him into using premixed thinset. I didn't hear about it until SIX MONTHS LATER when his tile and grout joints started showing cracks all over the floor. When he called me I asked him what he used for thinset, and sure enough, this is when he told me. I told him to pull one of the tiles, and SIX MONTHS LATER, IT WAS STILL SOFT!!! DOn't let them talk you into it!! Use the proper thinset, and don't try and shortcut your installation. You're spending alot of money for it to be "just practice"!!

Q) How do you deal with different thicknesses of tile?

A) Whatever it takes. I've used membranes, built up the amount of thinset being used, I've even doubled up tiles when it worked out that way. Whatever it takes to get the two tiles to be flush toeach other.

Q) What are the typical tools required to lay tile?

A) Generally speaking, this is a list for just about all installations. Some may require specialized tools, but this would be for all:

Proper sized notched trowel
measuring tape
chalk line
margin trowel
nippers
high amp low speed drill and mixing paddle (best would be 6 amp or better and less than 400 rpm)
several buckets
score and snap cutter for straight ceramic cuts
4 1/2" grinder with a continuous rim dry diamond blade for ceramic, anything other than straight cuts
wet saw (can be used for ALL cuts, ceramic or stone)
grout float
hydra grout sponges (2-- once for grouting, one for cleaning)
24" and 48" levels (for vertical work)
heavy duty extension cords
KINEE PADS!! :-)
screwgun or nailgun (where CBU will be used)

Q) What about tile spacing and tpes of grout?

A) According to Dave Gobis from the Ceramic Tile Education Foundation in Pendleton, South Carolina, there will finally be a new standard for ceramic tile next year. The tolerances are shrinking. There will also be a standard for rectified tile. Along with that, there will be a revision to the installation standards that will specifically recommend a grout joint no less than 3 times the variation of the tile. For rectified tile the minimum grout joint width will be .075 or just over a 1/16".

As for grout, there's only one thing that determines whether you use sanded or unsanded grout, and that's the size of the grout joint. Anything less than 1/8" you use unsanded grout. 1/8" or larger, you need to use sanded grout. The reason is that the main ingredient in grout is porland cement, which tends to shrink as it dries. In joints 1/8" or larger, the grout will shrink way too much and end up cracking ans shrinking into the joint. The sand give the grout bulk, and the sanded grout won't shrink nearly as much and therefore, can be used in the larger joints.

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clipped on: 01.29.2014 at 09:20 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2014 at 09:20 pm

RE: alternative to carrera tiles? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: badgergal on 12.17.2013 at 12:00 am in Bathrooms Forum

My daughter is about to start a bathroom remodel and she has decided to use Daltiles Florentine Carrara. It is a porcelain. We were able to get 3 tiles to take home and view in her room. The tiler saw them and thought they were great. It comes in both matte and glossy finish. Glossy is available in 11x14 and 12x24. Matte finish is available in 12x12, 12x24 and 24x24. They also have it in a 2x4 brick mosaic and various trim pieces.
My daughter is using the matte 12x24's on the shower walls and 24x24's on the floor.
This tile is not the same as the ceramic Daltile Carrara available at Home Depot.
Here is a pic from their website. The tiles samples we had seemed to have a bit less veining than shown in this picture. The tile are rated with a shade variation of V3 or high.

Here is a link that might be useful: Florentine Carrara porcelain

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clipped on: 01.21.2014 at 08:25 am    last updated on: 01.21.2014 at 08:25 am

RE: What Kind of Shower Doors? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cat_mom on 02.27.2013 at 12:00 am in Bathrooms Forum

We used a 3/8" glass frameless shower door/enclosure with our Kohler cast iron shower receptor/pan. It feels very sturdy and looks great. We used starphire glass, and a taller height, but kept the cost down somewhat by using the 3/8" glass instead of 1/2" glass. We also added ClearShield to help keep the glass clear.

HTH!

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clipped on: 01.21.2014 at 08:03 am    last updated on: 01.21.2014 at 08:03 am

Newly painted black vanity with Anthropologie knobs

posted by: bbstx on 06.12.2010 at 05:47 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

A couple of weeks ago, I posted a message about fabulous mercury glass knobs from Anthropologie, and a separate message about painting my guest bathroom vanity black. Below are pictures of the nearly-finished product. I still have to get a plumber in to change out the faucet and order the mirror frame from Mirror Mate.

I painted the vanity myself. I used Sherwin Williams Prep-Rite ProBlock in the deep base, tinted as dark as possible, as the primer. Then two coats of SW basic black. Thanks to advice from funcolors, I bought new black hinges.

Before (with photographer blanked out - can someone explain to me how to make the image blurry instead?):
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After:
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Other side after:
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Close-up of knobs (they are even...it is the photographer who is off-center)

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Replaced "Hollywood" bar lights with this:
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New faucet not yet installed:

Delta Victorian faucet

I plan to order this Mirror Mate frame for the mirror:

MirrorMate Grandeeza

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clipped on: 11.30.2013 at 07:12 am    last updated on: 11.30.2013 at 07:12 am

RE: IGLOOCHIC---The Painter is coming tonite--what do I tell him? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: sheesharee on 11.09.2010 at 02:35 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I don't know if this helps or makes it more confusing.

I know I rencently said that's what Igloo used. I guess I was wrong. ? Her clipping say...

I only use high quality nylon (Purdy) brushes. I prefer them for wood finishes. They cost more but they last forever! I did have the primer tinted, and tinted it's kind of light purple color LOL so it looks funny until you start putting more paint on. They hate tinting it, but make them do it anyhoo!
Don't let anyone talk you into anything different (they always try to with me and it's never worked out). This is exactly what I use:

Primer
Sherwin Williams PrepRite ProBlock Interior Exterior Seals and Bonds, Latex primer (it's the most expensive...but if you don't like sanding or using chemicals to prep, this is the stuff for you!). I've never had to sand or strip first using this on the worst shiny stuff.

Paint
Sherwin Williams Exterior All Surface Glass Enamel
Code IFC411X
Woodsy Brown 100% mix formula 2924 (color code)
They use Acrylic Latex HIGH GLOSS Ultradeep base 6403-25932
Code A41T00204

Do not take a less glossy finish. This finish dries HARD and rich :) (There's a man joke in there somewhere but I'll avoid making it)

I use one coat primer and let it dry a day at least, then two coats (one day between at least) of paint with a good Purdy brush (which is important). With just one coat the grain still effects the paint, but with the two on top of the primer you get that nice smooth look :)

I'm a paint freak, so forgive me for saying this if you know. Don't use rollers for wood. I like a 1 1/2 inch and a 2 1/2 or 3" brush at the most. The smaller works well on the small areas so you don't drip or oversmear the sides of the project."

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clipped on: 11.30.2013 at 12:20 am    last updated on: 11.30.2013 at 12:21 am

RE: matching fixtures in the bathroom?? please help!! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mongoct on 09.12.2011 at 04:34 pm in Bathrooms Forum

It does not need to match. But that's my opinion.

Some folk are more sensitive to matchy-match finishes than others. If you really feel compelled that you need to have it all match for your own satisfaction, then have at it. But if you're matching it because you think others may think your design choices odd...I encourage you to design for yourself. Not others.

More opinion:

Think of things being in groupings. The shower. The vanity above the countertop (faucet, etc). The vanity below the countertop (door/drawer knobs and pulls). And so on.

Sometimes everything all matchy-match is just wonderful. Sometimes it's overwhelming or monotonous. Too much of the same.

Too much variety can look haphazard and disconcerting to the eye. There's no flow.

But there's a sweet spot in between, I think all can be well as long as things somehow relate to one another.

I always go along the lines of style being one thing, color another, and finish a third. Again, it's usually good to keep them some of those three things related as you go from one grouping to the next.

A contemporary "some thing" might not look right next to a traditional "other thing", especially if one was a patina'd ORB and the other was polished chrome. All three things are different.

My master bathroom has to be the least matching of any I've seen. My wife picked out what she wanted, but we grouped things together. She chose ORB sconces, so I painted the mirror in between the sconces to match the color of the ORB. I felt having the mirror the same color as the sconces sort of added visual mass to that grouping. Without the ORB-colored mirror, the sconces might have looked lonely out there on their own. That's one grouping.

We have a polished nickel faucet on top of the countertop.
However, below the countertop, the knobs and hinges are brushed pewter. While different, they relate as they're in the same color family and similar in style.

My wife's countertop make-up mirror? Polished chrome.

In the shower? Polished Chrome. All by itself, its own grouping.

All that non-matching stuff, it may sound absolutely gawd-awful, and some might think it is. But my wife is happy with how it looks, and if she's happy, I am too.

One thing I will say is that in the design and construction phase, you fret over every detail. But after 6 months you'll probably grow blind to the things that kept you awake at night with worry.

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clipped on: 04.17.2013 at 10:22 pm    last updated on: 04.17.2013 at 10:22 pm

RE: ? on crown molding and cabinets to the ceiling (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: potterstreet on 06.05.2012 at 01:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

If I am reading this correctly, we had a similar issue recently. The crown moulding which came with our Kraftmaid cabinets would not fit with any crown moulding we could find so our very adept carpenter made some transitions.

There was even an issue with one of the cabinets not opening with the transition so we finagled it - we're very happy with the way it works. He did a nice job.

I love the way crown looks in any kitchen. It finishes it beautifully. Our house is 1890 late Victorian and I wanted the kitchen to reflect that. It finishes it beautifully.

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Crown molding
clipped on: 04.13.2013 at 04:29 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2013 at 04:29 pm

RE: Searching for plain white basketweave floor tile (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bluekitobsessed on 11.24.2008 at 06:42 pm in Bathrooms Forum

When you click on the link above you need to then click on "mosaics" and look at the bottom. I don't know why the link takes you back to the "home" blue celeste page.

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clipped on: 02.03.2013 at 02:48 pm    last updated on: 02.03.2013 at 02:48 pm

Favorite apps for iPad to use in kitchen?

posted by: tea4all on 01.15.2013 at 01:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

I received an iPad for Christmas and just know that some of you will have knowledge about great apps to use in the kitchen. I'm new at this (no iPhone or smart phone) so could use any advice you have.

Last night a friend told me that Pepperplate would be a great resource for me. Does anyone have experience with this app?? I'd really like to have recipes on my iPad. What do you use?

Thanks for any information you can give me.

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clipped on: 01.17.2013 at 10:28 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2013 at 10:28 pm

RE: Shiloh cabinet pics anyone? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: pps7 on 03.10.2012 at 08:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have Shiloh in our entire house: if you do a search, you may find lots of pictures that I have posted.

kitchen: inset, polar white. the inset came with upgraded hardware: full extention and soft close. Love it!

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

dining room. acorn maple with brown glaze. Wyatt door.
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master bath. espresso maple. Wyatt door/ drawers.

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For the basement bar, we used their cheaper sequota line since it won't get much use, we got the praline maple which is very pretty. The quality is not as good, but good enough for the basement.

We got thermafoil in the laundry. It's actually very nice- I was surprised by how much I liked it.

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clipped on: 12.03.2012 at 08:22 am    last updated on: 12.03.2012 at 08:22 am

RE: Burlap curtains?2 (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Bumblebeez on 10.04.2011 at 05:39 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Here you go:

Photobucket Uploader Firefox Extension

Photobucket Uploader Firefox Extension

Photobucket Uploader Firefox Extension

Photobucket Uploader Firefox Extension

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curtain tutorial
clipped on: 10.04.2012 at 09:33 am    last updated on: 10.04.2012 at 09:33 am

RE: Posting Pics? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: AnnieDeighnaugh on 08.17.2012 at 08:53 am in Kitchens Forum

Copy the image address and paste it into the following phrase replacing the xxx with the image address and replacing the parentheses with the pointy brackets...less than/greater than signs

(img src="xxx")

If the image comes out too large, add a width constraint as follows

(img src="xxx" width="600")

I'm on a mac so if I CTRL click on an image, a menu pops up including copy image address.

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clipped on: 08.17.2012 at 02:53 pm    last updated on: 08.17.2012 at 02:53 pm

my battery operated led - ucls good idea?

posted by: ladyshadowwalker on 09.14.2011 at 02:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK so I ordered a bunch of battery operated LED puck ritelite puck lites from amazon for 12 for 55.00 Now my budget for my kitchen is 7K this includes granite countertops, new sink, faucet and water filter, cabinet refacing in solid maple, new casement window, tile backsplash, porcelain ( stone wannabe) floor( 10 x 12), remove wallpaper, change soffit and its light, new stove, move a/C vent add gfi outlets and UCL. So i need an expensive look at a bargain basement price.
I love them - they are brite, look attractive to me have a dim and swivel function are a nice color and I can pretty easily (cheaply ) convert them to plug in the hidden microwave recepticle. Now the question even when plugged in they need to be turned on indiviually an in-line switch will function as a kill switch only. There are nine of them give or take. I am torn between the have light just where you want it and "gang switched" into one or two banks of lights. Is there a "right" way or is turning them on one by one a "what where you thinking?" kind of moment ?

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clipped on: 08.16.2012 at 10:45 pm    last updated on: 08.16.2012 at 10:45 pm

RE: What goes with natural cherry and dark green? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: RockportMA on 08.03.2012 at 10:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

We're having a difficult time choosing as well. We're doing Verde Peacock (but our slab had a good amount of brown in it) with natural cherry cabs too. Kitchen paint is Sherwin Williams Muslin (slight green side of neutral) The picture is with camera phone so it doesn't get justice. I'll post a couple other pics too.

Amainah - any more info. on what you're looking at or picture of your sample? It sounds nice.

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clipped on: 08.07.2012 at 09:47 am    last updated on: 08.09.2012 at 10:03 pm

RE: paint color Q for dutch wood customers (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: michelle16 on 06.17.2012 at 11:48 am in Kitchens Forum

im using white dove, and stone harbor gray

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clipped on: 08.09.2012 at 09:54 pm    last updated on: 08.09.2012 at 09:54 pm

Almost Finished Pics - long time coming...

posted by: aokat15 on 02.09.2012 at 02:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm still waiting to finish up some small details - such as having my potfiller installed - but I thought I'd post my almost finished pics. I've posted some pics along the way, but here is where we're at now. It's been almost 2 years since we purchased our home and we are slowly coming to the end of a long whole house renovation and addition. Gardenweb has been an amazing source for inspiration and guidance - thanks for all of your help along the way. Let me know if you want any info.

To the right of my refrigerator is an oversized walk-in pantry. There are temporary shelves in there now... someday soon we'll have cabinets and nice shelving and I'll share those pics as well :)

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clipped on: 08.04.2012 at 12:23 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2012 at 12:24 pm

Need help choosing backsplash tile color

posted by: cIRCitmage on 08.03.2012 at 03:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello All,

I'm not too good at picking colors (being actually color blind)... What tile color would the community recommend above the SS backsplash of this kitchen??

posting unoiled and oiled picts for comparison

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clipped on: 08.04.2012 at 10:41 am    last updated on: 08.04.2012 at 10:41 am

backsplash ideas

posted by: lambsear1 on 08.04.2012 at 10:38 am in Kitchens Forum

Just a few details left with the kitchen renovation. Not sure what to do with the backsplash and looking for some ideas. The granite is Verde peacock.

Thanks

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clipped on: 08.04.2012 at 10:38 am    last updated on: 08.04.2012 at 10:38 am

RE: Where can I get good, real wood drawer organizers? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: lowspark on 07.01.2009 at 04:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

I used the Lee Valley brackets and wood strips I bought from Lowe's and Bob is right. I'm about as beginner as you can get but I was able to create custom wood dividers for my drawers. And I love them. They look great.

Here is a link that might be useful: lee valley brackets

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clipped on: 08.03.2012 at 10:47 am    last updated on: 08.03.2012 at 10:47 am

My finished white kitchen ($8k budget)

posted by: noellabelle on 05.23.2011 at 02:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

My kitchen is done, with tons of thanks to everyone at this site! I had never been here before my kitchen remodel, and google kept leading me here with every question I could throw at it. Then I found lots of wonderful help, advice, and hand holding as I went through this process.

The kitchen is 10' x 18', and our condo was built in about 1987.

Before:

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Our only previous seating in the kitchen was a kid's table.

Cabinet Paint - SW Alabaster
Trim Paint - SW extra white
Wall Paint - SW Sea Salt (looked green/gray after the first coat, before thankfully ending up in a soft aqua)
Counters - Valley White Granite (also called River White, and maybe White Spring)
Floor - Bellawood 3/4" Red Oak
Vintage Cherry Hutch - craigslist
Island - craigslist
Backsplash - white cheapy Lowes subway tiles
Dishwasher - kenmore (already had)
Range - Electrolux EW30DF65GS duel fuel from craigslist
Refrigerator - Bosch Linea Series B22CS50SN from Sears Outlet
Hood - Zephyr Breeze II Series AK1200
Microwave - GE Profile Spacemaker II PEM31
undercabinet lighting - xenon task light strips from Pegasus

I was all set to go with jet mist or another dark/black granite, and I just fell in love with the valley white slab when I went to the stone yards. I'm so happy with my choice, and I love the sparkly depth in it.

I was a little afraid it would be too much white (polished at that) with the counters, backsplash, and cabinets, but I think that they all work well together.

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love my vintage cherry hutch - so much better than my old baker's rack

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I was going to buy an unfinished bookcase and paint it to match the cabinetry, but I went cheap & easy, using an IKEA bookcase instead. I attempted to add some molding around the microwave to make it look sort of built in.

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The bird pictures that inspired the color scheme of the room

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I never thought I'd have a range as nice as this. I love cooking with gas now! The little retangular things on the wall are the old molding pieces that used to be in the middle of the cabinet doors. I painted them with chalk paint, and now I write my dinner plans there.

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I've got a little tiger in the background...the dragon is taking a nap right now : )

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Closer view of my granite

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This picture shows how much the under cabinet lights brighten up the space.

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Thanks for looking and all your help during this process!

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clipped on: 08.03.2012 at 10:36 am    last updated on: 08.03.2012 at 10:36 am

Drawer dividers & Hardwaretree.com?

posted by: Nicole6 on 07.29.2012 at 03:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Has anyone had any experience ordering from hardwaretree.com? I just found that they have the same dividers that many have gotten from LeeValley.com, only they're a bit cheaper from this other site. I took a chance, and just ordered 8 sets of 10. The shipping cost is the same between the two sites, but Hardwaretree charges $3.50 per set of 10 and Lee Valley charges $4.30 or $3.65 if you order more than 10 sets. Was just curious though if anyone else has had any experience with this site--it's always a little nerve wracking to buy something from an unknown place online.

Here is a link that might be useful: Drawer Dividers

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clipped on: 08.03.2012 at 10:26 am    last updated on: 08.03.2012 at 10:26 am

Designsponge: Jackier's beautiful kitchen

posted by: francoise47 on 08.03.2012 at 07:34 am in Kitchens Forum

Do you remember Jackier's beautiful kitchen on Gardenweb last year?

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Designsponge has done a lovely story on her kitchen with information about all the details.

http://www.designsponge.com/2012/08/before-after-clean-simple-kitchen-redo.html#more-144630

Here is a link that might be useful: Jackier's Gardenweb kitchen

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clipped on: 08.03.2012 at 10:22 am    last updated on: 08.03.2012 at 10:22 am

RE: Show me your Furniture Style Toe Kicks (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cotehele on 02.12.2010 at 03:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

Arched with white back
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All the kitchen cabs have furniture base trim with quarter-round. Sorry I don't have any close up photos.
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clipped on: 07.30.2012 at 06:25 pm    last updated on: 07.30.2012 at 06:25 pm

RE: Kraftmaid painted cabinets (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: hermajesty on 01.06.2011 at 07:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have Kraftmaid painted cabinets and I'm a happy camper!

Mine are canvas with cocoa glaze. My kitchen was finished in November so I can't really speak to longevity at this point. But they are easy breezy to keep clean. As others have commented before you can SEE if something spills on your white cabinets so they're easy to keep wiped off.

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I know Kraftmaid are not high-end, but they suit our wants and needs perfectly. Very well made, sturdy, and beautiful. No complaints here.

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clipped on: 07.30.2012 at 08:13 am    last updated on: 07.30.2012 at 08:13 am

Amish Cabinets

posted by: Deja_Q on 07.15.2012 at 11:30 am in Kitchens Forum

I posted on this forum about a year ago. I wanted to stop back and post pics of the completed kitchen.

Details:
$4300 - AMISH - all cabinets, island and pantry (Oak Natural)
$5000 - Appliances
$3000 - Granite
$1000 - Flooring (entire first floor, less living room)
$600 - AMISH - all oak baseboards, door & window trim (entire 1st floor)

I live in Rochester NY but am from northern NY where Amish are plentiful. They do not use resellers or market their work, so I had to pick up the cabs and truck them here. But for a price that is 1/4 of what Lowe's would charge, it was worth it! Simple & functional--perfect for a working kitchen!

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clipped on: 07.30.2012 at 06:38 am    last updated on: 07.30.2012 at 06:39 am

Kitchen finished! White cabs, quartzite, leathered black. Whew!

posted by: babs711 on 07.14.2012 at 12:25 am in Kitchens Forum

We moved into our new build about three weeks ago. While I say the kitchen (and house) are complete, some things are missing that need to be done like counter stools that aren't here yet, a window seat cushion, upholstered chairs at the table that will be ordered, BLADES for the living room ceiling fan that aren't in yet. I've hardly hung a thing on the walls and am working on window treatments now. You get the picture! But we're in! And the months of planning and stewing are over! So here are some pics of the kitchen/dining/living room. I'm sure I'll have updates as I go.

DETAILS:
Cabinets: Eudora Frameless
Island countertop: White Macaubus Quartzite
Perimeter countertop: Leathered Absolute Black Granite
Sink: Kohler Riverby Cast Iron
Faucet: Moen Woodmere in Stainless
Hardware on solid doors/drawers: Amerock Highland Ridge in polished nickel
Glass knobs and Bin Pulls in polished nickel: Van Dyke's
Range & Dishwasher: Thermador
Refrigerator: Kitchenaid Pro
Refrigerator Drawers: Electrolux
Sharp Microwave Drawer

Close up of the tile. It's hard to get an accurate color since it's so glossy. It's more blue/green than portrayed in pics:

I was standing on a chair when I took this. I feel like it makes the dining table look like toy furniture! Ha!

Behold...the unfinished bar and the fan with no blades. We live in the deep south...no judging the fan! Behind those closed doors lies my DH's very unfinished man cave.

And you'd know that the day after I took these, my new sofa cushion inserts came in. It's all fluffy and new looking again. Oh well!


The Pantry is actually the same color as the entry you see right past the range wall in the kitchen (BM Gray Wisp). But I didn't use a flash so it looks funky here:

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clipped on: 07.15.2012 at 12:30 pm    last updated on: 07.25.2012 at 08:08 am

Finished small bath update! (Pics)

posted by: pipdog on 07.14.2012 at 12:45 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We're remodeling/updating both of the baths in our house and just finished the smaller one. It's a 3/4 bath we updated with Carrara marble basketweave tile.

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I don't have any true "before" photos, but here was the tile floor beforehand. I tried about 15 paint colors in that room.
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Paint - BM Nimbus
Floor - Marble Basketweave by AKDO
White subway tile in shower

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clipped on: 07.17.2012 at 09:41 pm    last updated on: 07.17.2012 at 09:41 pm

RE: My just-about-finished Super White kitchen **pics** (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cluelessincolorado on 03.28.2012 at 02:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

Lovely, lovely, and lovely!

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clipped on: 07.10.2012 at 11:32 pm    last updated on: 07.10.2012 at 11:32 pm

Kitchen update - before and sorta after pics

posted by: Lake_Girl on 07.10.2012 at 12:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

We went ahead with some updates to our 14 yr. old kitchen after I had a kitchen designer come to the house last year for a consult. We didn't use her, but she gave us the jumpstart we needed. The primary thing was raise the microwave, which was always too low (actually I think the cab above was not the right size). About 9:30 one evening we decide it wouldn't be a big deal to bump the cabinet and microwave up. But to make the crown mold work out, we ended up bumping mw out a little also. Doing all this exposed sides of the cabinets that weren't finished. One thing leads to another... All these months later, we've ended up adding a larger crown mold, new tile BS (the old BS had holes where the mw had been). We added new hardware, new sink, faucet, soapstone countertop, and oak BB on the island, recessed and undercabinet lights, and pendants. We hadn't planned on appliances, as ours worked fine. But an awesome deal on craigslist showed up, so we sold our white appliances on CL as well. One change the kitchen designer suggested (which was brilliant), was straighten the island when we changed out the countertop. My DH did this, and added the trim and feet to update it. Oh and before all this work, we had the floors refinished. The kitchen isn't huge, but I've got a large hutch that holds small appliances, and a large pantry in adjoining laundry room. Now, I'm trying to decide whether to add corbels or legs to the island, and whether to paint the walls. I'm loving all the grays, but the family likes the green, and I'm not sure how it would match up with the family room, which is a creamy tan.

Before:
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after:
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clipped on: 07.10.2012 at 11:25 pm    last updated on: 07.10.2012 at 11:25 pm

RE: For those of you with Verde Peacock...talk me off the ledge!! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: canajo on 01.27.2010 at 05:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have medium cherry cabinets, with Verde Peacock, and I don't think it looks too green at all. We love it as the brown flecks match our cabinets. Here is a link for some pictures. Sorry that the web album is of our whole house remodel-I have not had time to separate the kitchen pictures from the rest of our house. If you look after the first group of bath pictures, however, you will see a close up of the Verde Peacock. Our slab was a little different than most of the ones we looked at as it had not as much brown in it as others.

Here is a link that might be useful: Verde Peacock photos

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clipped on: 06.25.2012 at 09:46 pm    last updated on: 06.25.2012 at 09:47 pm

RE: Crown moldings-show me your simple options (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: lanval on 06.24.2012 at 11:40 am in Kitchens Forum

I used cove moldings. Three different sizes, for ceiling, top and bottom of cabinets.

Picture 267 Picture 272

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clipped on: 06.25.2012 at 06:13 pm    last updated on: 06.25.2012 at 06:13 pm

RE: Advice/lessons learned for potential DIY kitchen renovation (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: Laura12 on 06.21.2012 at 08:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our schedule might have been tight, and we may have been missing a few permits ;) but it all got done fairly fast. Moving plumbing and electric willl add time your schedule, but it if you are handy it is doable.

I'm actually in the planning stages of building a house now and it will be built through a combination of a builder being the GC on some big items that I don't want to deal with (electric, plumbing for starters) but I will be GC'ing all the finish work as well as roofing and HVAC. It is the only way we could get what we wanted built within our budget!

A book (and website) I found helpful is Be Your Own House Contractor: Save 25% without Lifting a Hammer written by Carl Heldmann and his website is www.byoh.com

Here is a link that might be useful: Be Your Own House Contractor: Save 25% without Lifting a Hammer

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clipped on: 06.23.2012 at 11:48 am    last updated on: 06.23.2012 at 11:48 am

RE: Our New sort-of vintage White Kitchen finished (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: gardenamy on 06.22.2012 at 09:06 am in Kitchens Forum

Nanjeanne - It looks beautiful! Your pantry space is wonderful. Love the soapstone too! Congratulations!

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crown moulding
clipped on: 06.22.2012 at 11:58 am    last updated on: 06.22.2012 at 11:58 am

RE: Can I see creamy crackle backsplash pics? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: positano on 05.11.2010 at 09:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

The color in the sonoma tile that looks more bisque is probably "Krazy Krackle". "Creamy" is a little whiter. Look on the website to check it out.

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clipped on: 06.17.2012 at 09:58 pm    last updated on: 06.17.2012 at 09:58 pm

knob location

posted by: dianelouise on 05.30.2010 at 01:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are doing knobs on both drawers and doors. On cabinet doors, I've seen knobs centered at the bottom of the stile/rail; equal to bottom rail; and about 2" up from bottom rail. What is most popular location for cabinet knobs?

On drawers, at what point do you put 2 knobs instead of just one? Drawers 30" and wider? Drawers 33" and wider?
Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

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clipped on: 06.07.2012 at 06:24 pm    last updated on: 06.07.2012 at 06:24 pm

RE: show me your faucet set up with undermount sinks. (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: cat_mom on 09.22.2007 at 09:35 am in Kitchens Forum

FYI--no air switches necessary in NY (at least not in Southern NY State).


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clipped on: 06.03.2012 at 11:31 am    last updated on: 06.03.2012 at 11:31 am

RE: 4 inch granite backsplash AND tile? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: thegoose on 11.22.2007 at 09:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

msrose: The paint is Benjamin Moore Waterbury Cream HC-31 flat and the granite is Juparana Arandis.

pinar: Here's the view from outside the kitchen window, which reveals the secret behind the extra space past the sink.


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clipped on: 06.02.2012 at 10:06 pm    last updated on: 06.02.2012 at 10:07 pm

RE: Should I wait to see granite installed before I do backsplash (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: badgergal on 06.02.2012 at 01:32 am in Kitchens Forum

Most people on this forum seem to wait until cabinets and countertops are installed. I guess it might somewhat depend on what your granite choice is and the size of your samples. I had a good size sample of a granite I liked and good size sample of the cabinet wood too. I knew I wanted a mosaic mix of at least stone and glass. I only went to one tile store and only brought home one sample because I knew as soon as I saw it it was what I wanted. It had glass, stone and stainless in the mix. I decided on the granite and tile that day. I put the granite on hold the next day. And I purchased the tile before the kitchen was even started because I didn't want to find out later that it wasn't available. So not waiting can work too.
Just for the heck of it here is a picture of the tile I fell in love with and my granite sample
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Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

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clipped on: 06.02.2012 at 05:10 pm    last updated on: 06.02.2012 at 05:11 pm

RE: drawer dividers, organizers, shelf liner? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: natal on 02.01.2009 at 05:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

I use bamboo dividers for my silverware, one of my utensil drawers, a baking drawer, and the junk drawer. Bought them at TJ Maxx & Marshall's.

Used the cushion liner (can't remember the name right now) in my pot drawers and in the cabinet where I keep my oils and vinegars. (I'm lifting up the liner with my finger in the last shot.)

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clipped on: 06.01.2012 at 05:20 pm    last updated on: 06.01.2012 at 05:21 pm

RE: drawer dividers, organizers, shelf liner? (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: joan2121 on 04.06.2011 at 01:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you for all the advice on custom drawers. I ordered the wrong size brass things from Lee Valley. I already had the wood so my husband made these by using small nails and his nail gun (I think). Anyway, they came out great! Thanks for the inspiration! I put all my stuff on the counter and he customized the whole thing. BTW, it was WAY cheap! Maybe $12 for the wood! and Lee Valley took back the stuff I bought- no problem.

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clipped on: 06.01.2012 at 05:20 pm    last updated on: 06.01.2012 at 05:20 pm

RE: Contemplating cutting board storage... (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: NewSouthernBelle on 04.24.2012 at 08:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am very late in responding to this but here goes...

I ended up doing an open shelf for our cutting boards. My cutting boards were always very accessible in the old kitchen and I wanted them that way again so instead of putting them in a drawer or behind a cabinet door, I just had my cabinet marker put a floor and a shelf in a 3'' gap between two other cabinets in the middle of my prep area. My island is huge as it is (10.5' long) and I couldn't devote any more space to it. Even adding a small hinged door would require another 2-3'' and require two motions to get a coard out. So far I love it. It is the back side of the island too so no one ever really sees it.

DSCN3125

Here is a link that might be useful: thread with photos of Aliris' cutting board drawer

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clipped on: 05.26.2012 at 02:45 pm    last updated on: 05.26.2012 at 02:45 pm

Help Me find this subway tile!

posted by: nmmiller17 on 04.22.2010 at 08:56 am in Kitchens Forum

I am in love with this kitchen and I would love to use the same subway tile for our backsplash. Any idea where I can get this - or what it is? I checked at subwaytile.com but they don't make a "bone" with a crackle finish.

We are also doing white painted cabinets, peppercorn light fixtures, granite in giallo ornamental and hardwood floors in gunstock.

Please click the link below for pictures of the inspiration tile and kitchen.

THANKS!

Here is a link that might be useful: FIND THIS TILE

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clipped on: 05.26.2012 at 11:09 am    last updated on: 05.26.2012 at 11:09 am

RE: Show me your marble subway backsplash! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: lagrant on 03.18.2010 at 10:56 am in Kitchens Forum

I have a calacatta marble subway backsplash paired with white cabs and black textured granite counters. Now, I ordered extra tile and removed any that were plain white because I wanted a lot of texture/pattern. This pic has a blue hue on my screen right now, but that isn't true in real life. HTH!!

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clipped on: 05.19.2012 at 05:17 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2012 at 05:17 pm

RE: Please show me your subway tile backsplash! (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: joyce_6333 on 05.18.2011 at 05:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our kitchen, and our house, are quite simple, and so is the backsplash. Plain bisque colored subway, with black marble mosaic.

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clipped on: 05.19.2012 at 05:15 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2012 at 05:15 pm

RE: For those of you with Verde Peacock...talk me off the ledge!! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: cawfeegirl on 01.27.2010 at 08:56 am in Kitchens Forum

I realize that Verde is green, but the Peacock is really a dark, almost black, green. Same as Uba Tuba. Its why we didnt go for the Verde Butterfly because we thought that was too emerald-y green.
I guess I shouldnt have gone on the internet to look at other images because, really, images can come across so differently on a monitor. I took my sample outside in the daylight this morning and it really seems fine..... as long as MY slab is not emerald, then I should be OK.
Thanks for your input!! Im feeling better about it this morning....

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clipped on: 05.18.2012 at 06:38 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2012 at 06:38 pm

RE: Virginia Black Honed Granite... Your Pics? None on FKB. (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: jejvtr on 11.19.2010 at 07:56 am in Kitchens Forum

It was quite the search for us too

I considered soap stone

Many samples later - tested by all - knives, vinegar, lemon, mustard, oils etc

Chose "victoria classico" honed

sample
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Newly installed 4.5yrs ago
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Very pleased with the choice - NO extra upkeep - no smudges, very hard surface, seem impervious - very forgiving

good luck

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clipped on: 05.18.2012 at 06:28 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2012 at 06:29 pm

Ceramic Beadboard Backpslash - Done

posted by: SusieQusie60 on 08.20.2011 at 09:07 am in Kitchens Forum

This past week we had our ceramic beadboard backsplash installed. I'm very happy with it! Here are some pix if anyone is interested:
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You can probably tell that I ultimately decided to go with the "mellow" theme in my kitchen with the backsplash. I picked something I thought would really blend, leaving my floor and my backsplash (both dark) to really "pop" in my kitchen.

Not a whole lot between me and completion at this point - glass inserts, under cabinet lighting, a few pieces of trim. Can't believe I might really have a "Finished Kitchen" soon.

SQ

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clipped on: 05.17.2012 at 05:50 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2012 at 05:52 pm

RE: Double sink vs single sink which do you prefer (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: ktam_88 on 07.11.2009 at 03:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are in the process of remodeling our kitchen and also have a 33" base sink cabinet. We currently have a double and will be replacing it with a large single sink. It makes it much easier to wash the the big pots, pans, baking sheets and platters.

Here is a link to the sink we purchased (stainless steel undermount, 15 gauge and you can't beat the price!!). We actually only paid $300.

http://cgi.ebay.com/32-Stainless-Steel-Undermount-Single-Bowl-Kitchen-Sink_W0QQitemZ140332162784QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item20ac72dee0&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=%7C293%3A2%7C294%3A30


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clipped on: 05.17.2012 at 05:47 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2012 at 05:48 pm

RE: Choosing Wood for Kitchen Cabinets (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: colorlady on 06.02.2011 at 10:02 am in Kitchens Forum

I think I found out how to show a picture of the cabinet colors and materials I described in the previous post. https://picasaweb.google.com/DCOGNAC/ShilohHickorySoftWhiteWSlateGlazeKashmirWhiteGranite?authkey=Gv1sRgCPOsp7WJg4CWMw#5613620791695194610

Here is a link that might be useful: Hickory Cabinet w/mild destressing and glaze


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nice cabinets
clipped on: 06.02.2011 at 06:52 pm    last updated on: 06.02.2011 at 06:53 pm