P.s. another tip, the cuttings that turn orange-ish and dont put on any top growth for a while seem to produce the biggest rootballs.

Regards
Rowan

That said....

This is what you will need.
A plastic shoebox, with a lid. They come in various sizes, any will do.

Soil less potting mix, half peat, half perlite, or whatever is your favorite medium.
A little clay pot, with the drain hole plugged with caulking or silicone. If this is a new pot, scrub it with some steel wool to be sure it doesn't have a sealer on it. You want the water to seep through it.
Rooting hormone powder or liquid, or salix solution from the willow tree.
Plant material, snippers. I am going to pot some Plectranthus (a tall swedish ivy) and a Joseph's Coat, 'Red Thread'. I already have some succulents rooted in this box. I will take them out and pot them up later, DH has a new cacti pot he wants to put them in.
You can see here, I hope, that I fill the clay pot to the top with rain water, well water, or distilled water. I just don't use our tap water, too much chlorine and a ph that is out of sight.

I pour a little of the hormone powder out on a paper plate or a piece of paper, so that I don't contaminate the whole package of powder. And these little 'snippers' are the best for taking this kind of cuttings.

This is about right on the amount of hormone to use. I try to get 2 nodes per cutting, if I can. Knock off the excess. It is better to have a little too little than to have too much.
Then, with your finger, or a pencil, or stick, SOMETHING, poke a hole in the potting mix and insert your cutting. Pull the potting mix up around the cutting good and snug.

When your box is full, and I always like to pretty much fill the box, just put the lid on it, and set it in the shade. You don't ever put this box in the sun. You wind up with boiled cuttings. YUK!

Check the cuttings every few days, and refill the reservoire as needed. Don't let it dry out. If you happen to get too wet, just prop the lid open with a pencil for a little while.
This is a very good method of propagation, but I don't do roses in these. The thorns just make it hard for me, with my big fingers, to pack the box full. All kinds of other things can be done in these. Just try it!

Janie

Canna hybrids do not come true from seed and although some of the progeny may resemble the parents, they are rarely as good. Nevertheless, it is fun to grow a few this way and you never know, you might just get something that is even better. The best time to sow is in January or early February , which will give the plants a good 14 - 16 weeks growing time before they can be hardened off for planting out of doors. Thankfully Cannas are extremely easy to grow from seed if you observe a few easily followed rules.

The seed coats are bullet hard (hence the occasional common name of 'Indian Shot'). The best way of enabling water to penetrate this seemingly impermeable barrier is to nick the seeds, by holding them in a pair of pliers and using a file, carefully cutting into the coat until you reach the white endocarp within the seed. Only the tiniest amount needs to be exposed and it is better to file too little away than too much. If you look at the seed carefully, you will see a scar (hylem). It is through here that the growing shoot will break through. You should file the coat on the opposite side to the scar in order to avoid damage to the embryo.

The next step requires a bit of bravery, so you'll need to 'grit yer teeth'. Place the seeds in a cup or beaker and pour freshly boiled water over them. As soon as you hear the seed coats starting to crackle and pop, immediately add enough cold water to cool them down to luke warm. The seeds should then be allowed to soak for 24 or more hours in a warm place - an airing cupboard is ideal.
Inspect the seeds and most should have swollen to almost double their original size after 24 hours. Sow these just below the surface of lightly moist, sterilised, soil-less compost and maintain temperatures of 25C (77F) or higher. Germination will take no more than 48-60 hours and don't be surprised to see first shoots appearing in as little as 24 hours. Those seeds which have not swollen immediately, can be left to soak for another day or so before sowing.
In the early stages, seedlings need to be kept at around 21C to prevent damping off. Canna seedlings need lots of light and should be left to grow to the second leaf stage before potting up into 8 - 10cm, diameter pots. Once they have established well, temperatures can be gradually reduced to 15 -18C. Pot on as necessary and keep the young plants moving by applying half strength liquid feed at 14 day intervals. By May, the seedlings should be in 25 -30 cm. diameter pots and will be ready for hardening off for planting out in the first week of June.

If you start early enough in the year and maintain good growing conditions, you can expect first flowers by July or early August.