Clippings by ladiauctioneer

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Before drywall, what electrical needs did we miss?

posted by: rosie on 10.05.2006 at 07:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

Or, what are you glad you put in beyond the usual basics? I really need to post this one for other rooms, too. We've always had old homes with an outlet (or two when we were lucky), in each room and a light hanging from the ceiling, and my eyes are crossing trying to figure out what we haven't thought of for now and future needs before the drywall goes up. Any and all suggestions would be very gratefully received.

Our kitchen has: Coffee, toaster and microwave counter beside the fridge, which will have TV over it. Pantry storage wall with broom closet. Prep island with prep sink. L-shaped main counter holding sink/DW, cooktop/oven, and secondary prep area (small appliances used here). Phone and cookbook (laptop dump site?) shelves finishing off lower cabinets of main counter. Banquette seating with table. Thanks.


clipped on: 11.12.2006 at 12:22 am    last updated on: 11.12.2006 at 12:22 am

RE: Anyone have a copper sink? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: deirdrelouisville on 11.02.2006 at 06:56 am in Kitchens Forum

We have copper countertops on half the kitchen, with a copper prep sink. On the other half of the kitchen we have Alabama white marble with a fireclay butler's sink. We used chrome on all the faucets throughout the entire house. Chrome works with everything and will never be dated. My only other choice would have been uncoated brass (which could then darken naturally over time), but that would have been over twice the cost.


clipped on: 11.02.2006 at 12:04 pm    last updated on: 11.02.2006 at 12:04 pm

RE: Granite Overhang Mistake: Advice Please (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: live_wire_oak on 10.01.2006 at 08:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

NKBA standards for overhangs are 12" for 42" bar height, and 15" for 36" counter height. Any shallower, and your taller guests will find themselves bumping their knees or scooching the seats so that they sit sideways. I'm a 6 footer with a 33" inseam, and 15" is barely enough room for me to not bruise my knees. You'll also have to reengineer the supports for a larger overhang.

I'd imagine they could fill the old hole with the same epoxy that they use to join the seams and then redrill the hole the correct size, but I don't think it would look very good.


clipped on: 10.01.2006 at 11:06 pm    last updated on: 10.01.2006 at 11:06 pm

RE: What's the hardest soapstone? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: plumorchard on 09.27.2006 at 09:54 am in Kitchens Forum

My two cents, order samples for everywhere and play with them will cost you a very little bit of $$ but it is worth it to see them all and then decide.

Also, from what I've found - most granite yards have Green Mt. That is also what the Expo in GA has on display.

Contact and talk to each -

and any others - they are all very different. They all have different color variations and you can pick up on a lot just by talking to the reps for each company.

Happy Hunting!


clipped on: 09.30.2006 at 11:38 am    last updated on: 09.30.2006 at 11:38 am

RE: Anyone done a copper countertop? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: aliceinwonderland_id on 09.20.2006 at 01:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's mine. This was a DIY project. I purchased copper sheet for the top and 1/8" copper bar for the sides. Cost, with the plywood base for the 4'x9' island was about $500. I'm letting it age naturally. Most things that spill on it make it darker, but acidic things remove the patina a leave shiny spots. I don't put hot pans on it because of the way it's constructed, but if you had a heavy-gauge copper that was sitting on the base rather than glued to it I you could set hot pans directly on it, but since copper is such a good conductor, I probably wouldn't - could burn yourself on the hot countertop. It will scratch and dent relatively easily, but I consider all those marks part of the charm. If what you want is pristine, shine counters, don't use copper.

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cool looking copper countertop
clipped on: 09.21.2006 at 11:28 am    last updated on: 09.21.2006 at 11:29 am

Question about Hardie siding and foam board

posted by: yam2006 on 09.12.2006 at 07:23 pm in Remodeling Forum

I'm getting some estimates for Hardie siding installation. My house currently has 25 year old foam board beneath hardboard siding.

One of the contractors advised that I remove the foam board entirely, and replace it with osb to match the original wall thickness for doors and windows. He says that Hardie does not install as well over foam board, and that the foam board has very little R-value anyway. This seems like a mistake to me, but I'm not a pro. Please advise? I want to have as good of insulation as possible, but I don't want any problems with the Hardie siding installation.


clipped on: 09.12.2006 at 11:17 pm    last updated on: 09.12.2006 at 11:17 pm