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RE: What are people putting in for faucets these days? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: Angie_DIY on 04.24.2012 at 12:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

If you like the look of the Grohe Bridgeport, but want the hold and lock feature, you could consider the Whitehaus Metrohaus 591. I learned about it here and really like it! It has a slightly larger reach than many of the others without being really tall.


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Here is a link that might be useful: Whitehaus Metrohaus


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clipped on: 06.29.2012 at 01:50 pm    last updated on: 06.29.2012 at 01:50 pm

RE: Waterproofing a basement (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: licwaterproofer on 02.12.2006 at 03:20 pm in Tool Shed Forum


Hi,

Would like to add some facts `n truths on basement waterproofing if i may. First, most people-not all, get water into the basement...onto the floor usually near/along the cold joint from cracks `n other openings in the basement wall and/or 'above' the basement wall.

Most problems are due to cracks/gaps/crevices etc in the walls but 'above' ground openings include open mortar joints,cracked-loose-porous bricks,openings around basement windows,openings around doors `n thresholds,openings in-around flashings and more.

In order to...stop water from entering one must go outside `n seal/fix/waterproof any & all problems-openings. This will stop/prevent mold,efflorescence and when there are cracks `n other openings in basement walls, waterproofing that wall or area of wall where crack is helps stop radon gas from entering through the crack,other opening and will also stop termites `n other insects from entering the same pathways.

ANY Inside drain tile or baseboard system w/sump cannot Stop/prevent water-moisture from entering Outside crack & other direct openings `n so it also will not stop/prevent mold/efflorescence from growing on walls and can`t help stop radon,termites etc either.

Lots `n lots of myths/misinforming out here, most carefully designed/worded to seduce homeowners in to an Inside system. One more thing you need to know about Inside systems...they do Not relieve/lessen/stop/prevent any lateral `n hydrostatic pressure that is against basement walls on the...Outside. These pressures and roots from trees cause walls to cracks, leak, bow `n even buckle inward. Only way to help lessen/relieve pressure is from...outside folks.

What is lateral `n hydrostatic pressure? Where is it? What is the Best remedy? please read 6th, 7th para`s

http://www.yodergroup.com/concrete.asp ....complete gravel/peastone backfill after Waterproofing, NOT Damproofing the wall.

http://www.bobvila.com/ArticleLibrary/Task/Inspecting/FoundationFailure.html

http://www.al-home-inspections.com/news-articles/article-4.html

http://www.riverwatchonline.org/news/winnipeg_press/07_09_05.html

This is your Foundation walls folks, the most important part of your house!

To stop/prevent Mold we must 'stop `n prevent' water/moisture.
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/images/moldguide.pdf

Eflorescence http://www.marshallconcrete.com/41
http://na.hansonbrick.com/en/techNotes/pdf/efflorescence.pdf

Many insects/bugs seem to enjoy wet/damp areas, how do Termites enter? http://www.mipca.org/Termites.htm

"They do 'Not' need direct wood contact to enter, and can enter homes etc through openings as small as 1/32 of an inch"
http://www.askthebuilder.com/Termites_Turn_Wood_to_Dust.shtml

--Radon gas evidently causes lung cancer & kills about 21,000 people each year. Please see 3.Characteristics and Sources... "Radon gas can enter a home from the 'SOIL' through cracks in concrete floors and walls,floor drains, sump pumps,construction joints and tiny cracks or pores in hollow-block walls. Radon levels are generally highest in basements & ground floor rooms that are in contact w/soil"

http://cbs2chicago.com/health/local_story_034173519.html

Cracks in basement walls occur during construction and not long after from soil compacting along Outside of wall.

Cracks can also occur 10, 20, 50 years down the road due to soil expanding `n contracting or roots. They can also occur from....please read article http://www.boston.com/news/traffic/bigdig/articles/2005/03/27/big_dig_now_faces_property_complaints/

Or go back to Bob Vila link and read 'last paragraph'
http://www.bobvila.com/ArticleLibrary/Task/Inspecting/FoundationFailure.html

Tree Roots, Wet Basements
http://landmarksociety.org/section.html?id=1&uid=1&pageId=7

please scroll to -Trees and Your Foundation-
"Strong foundations are sometimes damaged by small roots that entered tiny cracks, then grew and expanded the crack.Large roots can push bulges into the foundation wall....." scroll a lil further down to...Wet Basements

"Also, be wary of Waterproofing Companies who recommend Interior basement perimeter drains and a sump system....you`ll still have open water in your basement thus, the possibility of a musty odor and excessive humidity......" yes, odor(mold-mildew) due to NOT sealing/waterproofing cracks etc on the outside AND, the real possibility of crack(s) opening or widening 'more' because of continued expanding `n contracting of soil, and/or roots against wall.

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clipped on: 07.11.2009 at 11:37 pm    last updated on: 07.11.2009 at 11:37 pm

RE: Where do you get your garden plant labels? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: fairysoapgirl on 05.09.2008 at 01:38 pm in Daylily Forum

Missylin - I was using Paw-Paw Cap Style labels (C - on the orderform), but found that the "cap" would come off on a few of them after a year or so of regular garden abuse. Most of them are fine... Here is a pic:

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I just bought their Miniature Labels (M - on the orderform), so we will see how that goes.
Here is a pic:

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clipped on: 12.29.2008 at 12:05 am    last updated on: 12.29.2008 at 12:05 am

RE: stainless steel countertops? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: igloochic on 12.17.2008 at 09:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

I was asked for pics of ours so I wanted to get them out before I forget (We're just back from a hospital trip with the little guy...the last for a very long time yippie).

Anyhoo, Here are a few...I'll try for a few close ups if they're in my photobucket....

This is the inset sink...it shows some of the complexity of the counters we did, but also how much a good stainless fabricator can handle:

and because you mentioned you can't find my kitchen in the finished kitchen pics...I thought I'd share it so far. And so far...it's not finished LOL I'm trying to set a record for the most expensive and highest cost kitchen in the history of GW...I'm close :oP And we're probably still 30 to 60 days away from finishing this beast.

While you can't see it here, I have since cleaned the counters LOL (that was a few mins after install before they were polished up because I had to leave to get the baby and DH wanted me to email him some). We also (ok I also...DH does nothing) :oP Have replaced those horrible white outlets with stainless plates and then painted the outlets themselfs with silver model car paint :o) They sort of disapear now.

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clipped on: 12.20.2008 at 10:53 am    last updated on: 12.20.2008 at 10:53 am

RE: Need input on finishing touches for family room (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: lynninnewmexico on 12.05.2008 at 08:24 pm in Home Decorating Forum

This is turning out to be such a pretty room! I love your furniture, wall color, floors, bookcase, rug and floor lamp. You seem to be leaning toward the beautiful and classic Arts & Crafts style. But, the Hummel pictures don't go. As stated above already, although they are very nice, they don't really belong in a family or living room; they're too "cute" for a room like yours. Perhaps some nicely framed botanical prints in darkish wood frames might work there. You can find them already matted and framed in many stores these days. I'd try to find three, matted and framed the same, to hang in a row there.
You have to always watch out for accessories that are too small and your basket is just that. Look for strong, clean lines and go bold, never wimpy or delicate in a room like yours.
As for the portrait of Jesus, I think that it would look good there if you frame it right. I'm not sure about the red mat, though. You can go to www.pictureframes.com and download your portrait onto their site. There you can play around with different mat widths and colors until you get the look you want. I think double, not triple, mats will look best, though. A narrow one (not brown) for the inner mat with a wider outer mat. The rule for framing ANY artwork is to use the best mat & frame for the picture and let the artwork be the focal point. A frame that works with your decor, of course is best.
I'm not caring for the lamp and plant flanking your gorgeous!) bookcase. The lamp should serve the sofa. Do you have a nother small round table you can use by it? One idea would be to move the bookcase down towards the closet a bit more.
Question, are those new pictures centered over your sofa? Is there another window like the one by the paisley chair over on that other side? I do think that long simple, tailored drapes over the window(s) would give your room a more cohesive look, than the ruffled valance.
I hope you don't think I dislike your family room. I actually love it. I just think you need to work with the accessories a bit more to make it sing. It's almost there!
Lynn

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clipped on: 12.07.2008 at 03:06 pm    last updated on: 12.07.2008 at 03:06 pm

RE: 'Autumn Joy' might be 'Neon' (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: leslie197 on 10.31.2006 at 09:47 pm in Perennials Forum

Highalttransplant,

You've got lots of time to play around with flowers and all sorts of color combos. One thing you might consider adding are some daylilies, possibly cream with red or purplish eyes.

From my cream and purple garden - Border Lord, the darker tannish one with dark eye, & Moonlit Masquerade the whiter one with purple eye. There are many, many other possible choices that would work. (Solid deep Purple is Bela Lugosi in back and Indian Giver to the right).


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Custard Candy
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Awakening Dream

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Elegant Candy with Sundown Echinacea. This kind of combo would not work up close to your house, the colors would not pop against the red, but it could possibly be used out in the yard somewhere. P.S. EC varies from pink to peach to quite orangish. Note also that the silver foliage of the Cerastium tomentosum, Snow-in-Summer, makes the green come alive.

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BTW, I interplanted 4 different new color echinaceas with Blue fescue grasses in my "dry" bed since I wasn't sure of the colors of the coneflowers. Here is one of the fescues a little later in the season in bloom. This is a 1st year fescue, so a bit undersized, but they never get very big in my wet yard. Yours might, but they are not huge grasses - I usually use 3 at a time, in drier condition you might be able to use one in place of my 3.

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You could also add some heucheras, lots of new colors, if you haven't already. Here is Peach Flambe Heuchera in its fall color - sorry, don't have a summer picture. More orangish/peach in summer. Here it is underplanting a blue spruce.

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Caramel Heuchera - more vigorous than Amber Waves or Peach Melba. Combined with a really dwarf Mugo pine called "Mops" - a nice deep green.
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Green Spice Heuchera - a green one with a blue cast - very vigorous, but there are also some great silvery ones that would work too, especially against your red.


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The small shrubs to the left of the bright yellow First Light Helianthus is Goldflame Spirea - it is orangish in spring and fall, green in summer. (So so pink flowers in early summer). Spireas come in lots of colors and some size variation. Goldflame is a 3 x 3 ft relatively cheap deciduous shrub that can be used as a cutback shrub as it is here.
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Since you already have Coppertina, here is my Diablo Physocarpus - it is a very deep purple-brown which would contrast nicely with your red, but be a bit on the dark side. If Coppertina matches well, you cold move it nearer the house and plant this one out in the yard.

However, you might also try a Cotinus (I have Royal Purple) but there is a new variety called Grace which starts out purplish but has quite blue leaves in the summer. I saw it and it's gorgeous.

Other possibilities are Sand Cherries (bright reddish leaves - short lived open shrub/tree) or barberries in red or gold colors, or Wiegela (some purplish-leafed ones), or dark leafed cannas or dahlias.


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clipped on: 10.04.2008 at 11:54 am    last updated on: 10.04.2008 at 11:54 am

Help me find narrow, functional nightstands

posted by: n1cf2 on 06.09.2008 at 06:02 pm in Home Decorating Forum

As you can see in my first photo, there is a problem! Actually, I have quite few snags that could use some help, but as I'm new to posting here, I'll start out slow. This is our second home in the mountains of southwestern NC. We completed a renovation of the kitchen area and the master bedroom more than two years ago, but the process of updating the furnishings has been impeded by the limited time we are able to spend there. Much to our surprise, we ended up without enough wall space for our existing Bob Timberlake bedroom suite. We had an architect who was creative but not practical and we stupidly didnt have a designer review the plans. Losing the dresser was not a problem, as we were able to add drawer space to the walk in closet, but we had to switch out our furniture for a more narrow Shaker-style set from a guest bedroom (those are the nightstands) while we looked for a solution. We recently found this headboard and bench and were able to retire the pencil post bed. Now we need to find some nightstands 16 to 17 inches wide, preferably with a drawer or cabinet. The last time that we were there, I did find some that were the right style, but not well made. They were a Euro-style faux painted sort of a half-drum with a drawer and cabinet below, but the fittings were not aligned and stable. I would also like to replace the table between the two chairs with something smaller and round. Any suggestions?

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Here is what the rest of the room looks like:
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clipped on: 08.26.2008 at 11:28 am    last updated on: 08.26.2008 at 11:28 am

RE: Speak to me of shade... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: kim_dirtdigger on 10.01.2007 at 06:54 pm in Conifers Forum

Hi Karen. I actually have quite a few conifers in a pretty heavily shaded area, although it is open shade, rather than the dense shade from a house, and none have been in that bed for more than 3 years, and most of them for only 1-2 years. I've found that the Cham. obtusas do very well in shade here, as do Taxodium distichum, and Cephalotaxus har. We have a small Abies procura 'glauca' that has stayed nice and blue. I moved a Hinoki 'Fernspray Gold' which fried in winter's full sun, into shade and it has recovered, though now more chartreuse than yellow. Cham. nootka in partial shade also doing well. Microbiota decussata in nearly full shade has grown like crazy. I don't know how any of these plants will do in the long run, but so far they all are doing well. I'm guessing they'll grow at a slower rate than "normal", and as you said, the blues, and especially the yellows, won't be as pronounced.

I don't know how any of this will translate to your Zone 8, but it seems to me that shade is shade, regardless of the zone.

Oh yeah, almost forgot, we have 2 Emerald Green Arborvitae along with some Densiforma Yews on the north foundation of our garage which is total full shade. I thought the Arborvitae would die out for sure, but they've done fine for 3 years.

Good luck with your new garden bed. I much prefer gardening in the shade for obvious reasons, and am hoping the conifers will thrive in their cool little environment.

Kim

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clipped on: 03.24.2008 at 02:07 pm    last updated on: 03.24.2008 at 02:07 pm

RE: If you could pick the next Hosta of the Year, which would it (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: bunnycat on 08.30.2007 at 11:57 pm in Hosta Forum

I don't have Rainforest Sunrise. It sounds wonderful. Will have to put it on the top of my wish list.

I love Sun Power, and agree that it is deserving. It has a lovely shape and coloring, is not bothered by slugs, increases quickly and is easy to find.

But I think I would pick Wolverine. Also quick to increase, lovely (variegated) coloring, very attractive mound, easy to find. It is attractive as a juvenile and in its adult form. Since I don't have as many hostas as many on this forum, in my garden Wolverine is enough different from the others to catch my eye. It also compliments its neighbors nicely.

Wolverine with Abiqua Drinking Gourd, Stained Glass and Austin Dickinson.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

~Bunnycat

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clipped on: 03.22.2008 at 08:58 pm    last updated on: 03.22.2008 at 08:58 pm

RE: Favorite place for accessories (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: johnmari on 03.05.2008 at 02:35 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I'm an eBayer too, with the occasional venture into an antique shop. I do most of my shopping online in general because I can do it at 3am in my jammies. LOL There is a ~40 mile stretch of road here in eastern NH called "Antiques Alley" with more than 500 dealers (Route 4 between Dover and Concord) that I like to visit, although it's a bit of a trek so I haven't gone out there often. I hope to in the spring if I can scrape up a little "mad money"... there are a couple of bee-yoo-tee-full marble-topped Eastlake end tables at one shop that had me chewing my tongue but I just didn't feel up to parting with $500! I don't really buy much decorative stuff from chain stores or stores like TJMaxx because I don't see anything that knocks my socks off very often, and I would prefer not to fill my house with "just stuff". I have not yet seen a flea market with interesting things, though - it's mostly "as seen on TV" and MLM items, bootlegged DVDs and CDs, and suchlike crap. There's a couple down in MA that I'd like to get to (Todd Farm @ Rowley, and my "antiquer's dream" is to be able to show up at Brimfield with a scooter, a couple of grand in my pocket, and a nice big truck!) but both of those are too far for me to go these days.

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clipped on: 03.07.2008 at 02:05 pm    last updated on: 03.07.2008 at 02:05 pm

RE: Same Plant- Sun vs. Shade - photo comparisons (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: mctavish6 on 09.07.2006 at 12:20 pm in Hosta Forum

My records aren't as complete as I thought (need lessons from papou).

Gold Standard bought 1994. Grown in a pot unitl '96 then planted in shade. Moved it around in shade for a while. About 3 years ago it ended up in morning sun and more room - that's the original - mother - plant. The shade, smaller, piece was taken off at some point and has always been in deep shade. I do like the lime green color of it in shade.

Sun Power bought 1996 and grown always in Shade. In 2003 a division was planted in sun. It has basically caught up with the mother plant. The difference is the Shade plant is taller and loosier. The leaves are about the same size.

Midwest Magic bought 2003. Mother plant has grown in a pot, in the shade since then. A division was taken off this spring and planted in the sun. I'm amazed at how quickly this one has grown. It is much densier - leaves smaller - than the shade one. The one in shade is such an interesting color. I probably like it even better. It's sort of olive green, blended shades. This picture probably shows more accurately the size and color in the shade.

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They certainly do grow better with more room and sun. I have just started taking Ken's advice and puting struggling plants in the sun to grow. Even if they look ragged at the end of the summer, I'm going to try to get them bigger then move them into shade for the coloring I want. I've started creating space to do this. I'll post pictures of the progress on a separate thread when I get a chance.

Glad you all like the pictures. Mc Tavish

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clipped on: 09.07.2007 at 09:18 am    last updated on: 09.07.2007 at 09:19 am

RE: What do you have planted next to your Heucheras? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: monique on 02.04.2007 at 12:05 am in Perennials Forum

Heuchera 'Frosted Violet' with Polemonium 'Stairway to Heaven' and Hellebores:

with Geranium sanguineum var. striatum and Clematis 'Pink Fantasy'

with Euphorbia 'First Blush'

Heuchera ? with Japanese painted fern 'Burgundy Lace'(I'm still waiting for this combo to mature)

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clipped on: 09.07.2007 at 09:06 am    last updated on: 09.07.2007 at 09:06 am

RE: This Weeks Standout Plant In Your Garden (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: prairiemoon2 on 07.10.2007 at 06:51 am in New England Gardening Forum

Great photos! I am adding new plants to my wish list. :-)

Astilbe fanal

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clipped on: 09.04.2007 at 02:30 pm    last updated on: 09.04.2007 at 02:30 pm

Plants I wish I never planted..

posted by: lahtay on 05.18.2005 at 01:08 pm in New England Gardening Forum

The regional report in June's 'Fine Gardening' features, "Plants I wish I never planted."
I thought this might be both a fun & helpful thread.

I don't have one I planted but I dislike the lamium that was planted at our current home. I couldn't find the variety, but it's green with white leaves & currently in bloom with yellow flowers. It's so invasive. I think I'll be pulling it up forever!

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clipped on: 09.04.2007 at 01:56 pm    last updated on: 09.04.2007 at 01:56 pm

RE: Sewing with Sunbrella fabric (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: josal on 07.23.2006 at 07:32 pm in Sewing Forum

Flyingflower, go to beaconfabric.com and click on Sew with Lydia. She tells you about sewing with Sunbrella. If I was more computer literate I would have included click directly to the site, but maybe it's true that you can't teach an old dog new tricks. (: )

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clipped on: 08.31.2007 at 10:29 am    last updated on: 08.31.2007 at 10:29 am

RE: Sewing with Sunbrella fabric (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: kathyg_in_mi on 07.22.2006 at 05:00 pm in Sewing Forum

Try Fray Block, it doesn't get stiff and works just as well at Fray Check!
Kathy G in MI

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clipped on: 08.31.2007 at 10:29 am    last updated on: 08.31.2007 at 10:29 am

RE: Awnings: Sunbrella v. Beauty-Mark (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: chelone on 07.12.2007 at 05:05 pm in Porches & Decks Forum

I work in a canvas shop and have never heard of Beauty Mark before. But there are a lot of things I've never heard of before!

Sunbrella is the Glen Raven Mills fabric offering to the outdoor market. Dickson offers "Dicklon", there is another called Para. They're ALL 100% solution dyed acrylic and they're all basically "kissing cousins", standards in the industry.

The brand name doesn't really matter. What MATTERS is that the fabric is 100% solution dyed ACRYLIC. That's the important part. As is 100% sun-fast polyester thread in at least 92 weight, preferably 138 (heavier, but not commonly used).

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clipped on: 08.31.2007 at 09:07 am    last updated on: 08.31.2007 at 09:07 am

RE: Where to get Egg Knob door hardware.... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lkplatow on 06.29.2007 at 10:59 am in Building a Home Forum

we purchased some egg knobs from Emtek (a good brand, according to a friend of mine who is a locksmith) from Simpson's Hardware. They're a small mom-n-pop business with good prices and they were very very helpful in figuring out what I needed. (I had previously ordered some Emtek hardware from a site that screwed up the order then proved to not know the meaning of the words customer service.) I've since recommended Simpsons Hardware several times on this site and everyone who used them was pleased as well.

Here is a link that might be useful: Simpson's Hardware

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clipped on: 07.30.2007 at 12:50 pm    last updated on: 07.30.2007 at 12:50 pm

RE: Help locating a decorative floor return grill (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: dallasbill on 07.10.2007 at 02:42 pm in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

Try these people for custom: http://www.radiatorcover.com/

Make sure you know the CFM's and area that your return is actually supposed to pull from, so that you know how "open" your grill needs to be. Otherwise you can wear out the fan motor sooner as it works harder to suck return air.

In other words, a 10x20 grill will cover 200 sq inches. If it's 50% metal over the hole, it is only 50% open. All good grills will give a "% open" number.

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clipped on: 07.27.2007 at 05:20 pm    last updated on: 07.27.2007 at 05:20 pm

RE: Rococogurl- Stainless Steel Countertops (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: igloochic on 06.14.2007 at 12:08 am in Kitchens Forum

16 gauge is the magic number for the thickness. You want commercial grade, 16 gauge SS. This means that the quality is up to par with restaurant use (no rust, denting, etc).

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clipped on: 07.19.2007 at 03:55 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2007 at 03:55 pm

RE: Middle to high-end upholstery (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: rmanbike on 02.02.2007 at 01:19 am in Furniture Forum

Actually mid to highend upholstery manufacturers on the east coast ie: NC Miss. Ohio etc. will use poplar lumber or plywood or a combination of both. Almost never will you see oak or ash inside a upholstery frame, unless its exposed. On the west coast they will use Alder instead of poplar.
How well your upholstery furniture will last is more based on design of all the elements: frames, springs, padding, fabric and skills used in assembling. A poorly designed sofa will never last or sit well no matter who makes it. A well designed sofa with sinous (no-sag) wire springs will sit more comfortable and last longer than most 8-way hand tied coil springs. An 8-way hand tied sofa works best when it has a spring edge, which very few manufacturers offer spring edge on their sofas. Only the very high-end custom shops do.You will be lucky to find a salesperson in a furniture store that understands exactly how each manufacturer makes their furniture, let alone each individual style. I suggest when you find something you like, note the manufacturers style number, then call the manufacturer, ask them for this exact style, how is it constructed, is frame hardwood or plywood, they use springs or elastic webbing or?, The density of the foam in the arms and back (should be 1.8 or better). The standard cushions are they a HR foam or marshall unit ( springs) or if you can upgrade to a better cushion. Ulta-cell foam is a good choice, however a 2.0 density HR is much better. Most manufacturers outsource their seat & back cushions, but I doubt they will tell you which company. Back cushions should have atleast 2 separate channels for up to 18" height, 3 channels if taller. Conjugated fiber is most popular filling, next would be a blend of half feathers/down and half of the same type of fiber (blend-down).The higher the ratio of down to feathers will increase the price, comfort and usually last longer. But all will require fluffing. Leather cushions should breath very well if not then the life of the filling will be greatly reduced. I think one of your best resources for information on upholstery is your local reupholstery shop thats been in business for long time 10 years or more. Many furniture stores will have them do repairs instead of shipping back to the manufacturer, and which stores or manufacturers stand behind what they sale based on how they handle the repairs with them. Please dont buy furniture based solely on brand name and how it looks on the outside.

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clipped on: 07.13.2007 at 02:39 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2007 at 02:39 pm

RE: Middle to high-end upholstery (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: John_WC on 04.23.2005 at 01:18 pm in Furniture Forum

Let's start with the basics. A well constructed sofa consists of the following details: 5/4 kiln dried hardwood (like oak), legs that are part of the frame, suspended coil springs that are 8 way (or greater) tied, corner blocks, double dowel, glued and screwed corners and joints, minimum of high density cushions with upgrades available, fabric matched and high quality fabrics available. Avoid sofas that use bands or straps or serpentine for support as compared to suspended coil springs.

What separates high end and middle quality? Materials, craftmanship, quality and scale. If you want to see the best made sofa brand on the market, look at E J Victor. Incredible stuff. Of course, a price tag to match. But you will see the pinnacle of the upholstery market.

You asked for a list of middle and high end upholstery.

Middle: Clayton Marcus, Temple, Jetton, Massoud, Key City, Thomasville, Highland House, Century, Drexel, C R Laine, Michael Thomas, Harden, Ethan Allen, Pa House, Sam Moore, Fairfield, Woodmark, Lexington and Broyhill. And there are many more.

High end: E J Victor, Henredon, Heritage, Southwood, Taylor King, Bradington Young, Hancock & Moore, Hickory White, Hickory Chair and Baker.

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clipped on: 07.13.2007 at 02:33 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2007 at 02:33 pm

RE: Rug gurus - is Karastan ok quality for a runner? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: susans02 on 04.29.2007 at 09:46 am in Home Decorating Forum

You won't be sorry - tryin2grow & I are are fans of Karastan (so is all of my family)! I have a wool sisal that dates back 10 years and it still looks great. I have 2 rugs from the same collection that the William Morris is in (English Manor). I have the Windsor rug & Brighton. I used to have another one from the English Manor collection but my sis took it! BTW - I get my Karastans from a great store in Georgia (no tax, major discounts & free shipping). You literally get the rug in aboput 3 daus. Email me if you want info. Here are my English Manor Collection Karastan rugs -
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 07.13.2007 at 11:51 am    last updated on: 07.13.2007 at 12:16 pm

RE: How to choose a rug (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: ladynimue on 05.19.2007 at 07:03 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I was just looking around and saw this, thought of you -
(this does not apply to dining rooms, entry's or bedrooms)

10' x 15' Size Area Rug -
For Room Size: 11' 6" x 16' 6" to 12' 0" x 17' & larger

#
The above sizes are obviously for reference only, simply because although rugs may come in standardized sizes, rooms do not.
# Also, keep in mind that the above chart is helpful if you want to follow the 18" to 24" of bare floor showing around a room sized rug "rule of thumb".
# Most people feel that 18" of bare floor is the minimum around a rug, but that there is really no maximum amount of bare floor that should show.

Arrange your furniture before determining the size of a new area rug. It generally makes a room look more pulled together for all of the legs of the furniture to be resting on a room sized area rug. Or, if it is just a small area rug, you may want all of the legs of the furniture to be off the rug instead. All legs on, or all legs off is a good "rule of thumb" to keep in mind.

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clipped on: 07.13.2007 at 12:09 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2007 at 12:10 pm

RE: Old linoleum stuck to hardwood (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Saraband on 07.06.2005 at 12:28 pm in Old House Forum

Try squirking sections with Fantastik and covering with warm damp rags for about 10-15 minutes. I did this to remove an old linoleum floor, put down directly over oak. The waiting is important--and I then used a paint scraper/compound knife to scrape up old paper backing and glue. Mopped up a lot of the old glue with the wet rags, then let floor guys get the rest with the sanding.
Messy, but it works

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clipped on: 11.28.2006 at 08:37 am    last updated on: 11.28.2006 at 08:37 am

RE: Removing glued linoleum over hardwood-- HELP! (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: prtyhandi4agrl on 05.29.2006 at 01:42 pm in Flooring Forum

This is a late post, but I hope it helps someone else. Its been awful hard to find a success story on removing those tiles and adhesive, but I have found something that worked for me.

I have a similar problem with vinyl tile that was laid over a hardwood floor with glue / adhesive. The house was built in 1957 and I suspect the tiles were laid weeks before I purchased the house 4 years ago (darn that realtor!) so the floors are solid wood and its unlikely the adhesive has asbestos.

To remove the vinyl, heat and a tile scraper work well. I plan to splurge on a heat gun as recommended by the flooring experts at the hardware store as the hairdryer I was using stopped working the next day.

Now the glue is another story, scraping by hand took hours and was tedious until I found a product called Jasco - Sealer and Adhesive Remover its a brushable semi paste. Didnt even leave it on for the recommended 5-15 min. After 3 min. it was like scraping warm butter off a plate. Removed the residue with a damp sponge and water and dried with a cloth and that was it! It is caustic, but does not smell too bad.

Now to choose a sealer . . . polyurethane or wax? I'm off to peruse the flooring forum again!

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clipped on: 11.28.2006 at 08:33 am    last updated on: 11.28.2006 at 08:33 am

RE: gutter gards revisited (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: RitaOtay on 09.27.2005 at 05:45 pm in Home Repair Forum

Well what ever you do DON'T get LeafGuard gutters, especially if you get snow or rain...

They are guaranteed to never clog and they never will BECAUSE NOTHING GOES IN THEM! Everything sits on top!!

Now these are a one piece system, all .32 gauge aluminum, no holes or ridges like the Leaf Relief systems... They are slightly curved on top and the black walnuts do roll off, eventually, but the twigs and leaves stay there until they've started rotting and have stained the gutters...

I take that back some rain will trickle down into the gutters and drips, very loudly, in the over sized down spouts, it can be heard from 60 feet away... It's been a year and I still get a lot of 'over spray', as they call it... The first few months I actually had water lines all around the house...

Forget it in the winter time... I had FIVE FOOT long icicles hanging off the gutters on the second floor and ice dams you wouldn't believe... And this was after a lousy 2 inch snow fall....

I got royally screwed paying $7000. for these ' top of the line' gutters... If I had it to do over again I would just put up regular gutters and pay someone to clean them... Even if it cost $150. each year.

Rita

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clipped on: 11.27.2006 at 11:49 am    last updated on: 11.27.2006 at 11:49 am

RE: gutter gards revisited (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: tgstaub on 06.07.2005 at 09:33 pm in Home Repair Forum

Hi Folks:

I'll expose my bias right up front (sorry John Allen). I'm Tim Staub, and I own Elko Products, the maker of the Elko GuttaGard. Since 1983, we've sold more than 20 million feet of GuttGard nationwide.

The gutter protection market is the biggest consumer rip-off in the home improvement market. Folks (mostly older folks and women) are paying thousands of dollars to get a piece of metal put over their gutters. New gutters cost about $2.50 - $3.00 per foot. But gutter protection costs from $8.00 - $25.00 per foot.

GuttaGard can be installed by a DIY'er with nothing but a butter knife . . . for about $1 per foot. It's solid aluminum (no holes, no mesh, no mess) and it can handle at least 6" of rain per hour (the average rainfall in the US is 30" . . . only Louisiana gets more than 6" of rain . . . per MONTH!). With the new Gutter Genius clip, it can handle gale force winds without dislodging.

Check us out online (google "GuttaGard" and you'll find us). We have a free online publication called "The Consumer Guide to Gutter Protection" that will enlighten and hopefully entertain you as well.

Call our toll free line and ask for me. I'll be happy to talk with you directly.

Best Regards,

Tim Staub
President
Elko Products Company

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clipped on: 11.27.2006 at 11:47 am    last updated on: 11.27.2006 at 11:47 am

RE: gutter guards revisited (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: John_Allen on 05.20.2005 at 09:00 pm in Home Repair Forum

Regarding gutter guards, imho, I believe Alcoa's Leaf Relief may be one of the most effective systems available at a reasonable price. The Leaf product has been tested with leaves, twigs, pine needles, and small debris. And you actually get a 10 year no clog warranty from Alcoa. We have installed Leaf Relief here in Cincinnati Ohio and St. Louis Missouri with great results.

Hope this helps.

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clipped on: 11.27.2006 at 11:42 am    last updated on: 11.27.2006 at 11:42 am