Clippings by kptwin

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Kids' Bathroom - 2 Pedestal Sinks?

posted by: chclis on 03.19.2007 at 02:43 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hi there-
I'm considering putting two pedestal sinks in what will be my kids' bathroom (it's part of an addition and doesn't exist yet). The sink area will be in a separate room from the tub/toilet area. I was wondering if any of you have done this, if you have pictures you can share, and what you used for storage in lieu of a built-in vanity? I'm also hoping this might save us a little money, did you find that it was more cost-effective than built-in cabinets for the vanity?


clipped on: 03.26.2007 at 11:34 am    last updated on: 03.26.2007 at 11:34 am

RE: can I ask a dumb question?? How do you post pictures?? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: momj47 on 03.14.2007 at 04:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, first off you need to be able to put your pictures on the world wide web. You can post them on one of the photo hosting sites, or if you have one, your own web site. If you have only a picture or two, you can upload them to the GardenWeb Gallery.

Once you have pictures on the web, you can then copy the link that appears in the address box and paste it into the "Optional Link URL:" that will show up on the second page of the form that you use to start a new thread. If you are on a photo hosting site, you have to do something to make the pictures public, so we can see them without logging in.

If you want to embed your link in the text, you can follow the directions linked below.

Good luck, we are looking forward to seeing your pictures.

Here is a link that might be useful: How to make a clickable link.


clipped on: 03.15.2007 at 04:29 pm    last updated on: 03.15.2007 at 04:29 pm

RE: Pic of backsplash, I'm worried (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: bill_vincent on 02.19.2007 at 05:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

The grout has to be removed completely at the backsplash/countertop junction and replaced with caulk. A siliconized latex works great. I would avoid pure silicone because it is more difficult to work with and is a real problem when it has to be replaced (as all caulk eventually does). There are sanded caulks out there that very closely match the grout in both color and texture so you won't even be able to tell by looking that it's caulk (none of that shiny look).

WOW!! Someone's been paying attention!! :-)

Literally word for word, I couldn't put it any better! :-)


backsplash kitchen
clipped on: 02.20.2007 at 12:54 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2007 at 12:54 pm

RE: Our 'Cottage Modern' Kitchen is finished!! (Follow-Up #46)

posted by: beachlvr on 12.10.2006 at 12:20 am in Kitchens Forum

Thanks again! :)

kptwin- the walls are BM Bleeker Beige. I really like the way they turned out.

Starpooh- I emailed you and thanks again for all of your hard work. You helped me SO much. I really appreciate it!



living room wall color
clipped on: 12.10.2006 at 11:05 am    last updated on: 12.10.2006 at 11:06 am

RE: Is tung oil food safe? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: pirula on 12.08.2006 at 08:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

The instructions said to only cut in the first coat, and it was a 50/50 proportion. Then five to seven more coats of pure tung oil after that. I messed up the first counter though, used WAY too much tung oil per application. Am letting it dry out completely for a week now before I put on the final coat. The instructions said to wait till the counter was dry before doing the next coat (approximately 24 hours). I thought it was dry but it really wasn't. I confused "not wet" with dry. Now that it's REALLY dry, i.e. not remotely sticky, I see what I should have done. It's no big deal, the counter is almost all dry now and evened out. Since I'm not in a big hurry it's alright. But I'm passing this on so others don't make the same mistake I did.

So in summary:

One coat of tung oil cut 50/50 with citrus solvent, applied liberally, allowed to sit for 20 minutes and then wiped off what's left.
For kitchen counters, approximately five more coats of pure tung oil, NOT applied too liberally, allowed to sit for 20 minutes, then wipe off excess. They say wait 24 hours, but I now recommend 48, or until it is completely dry and not sticky.
You apply the tung oil with cheese cloth or some other lint free thing, and wipe/buff with a soft cloth. I'm using an old cotton undershirt and it works great.



how to oil mahogany counter
clipped on: 12.08.2006 at 11:19 pm    last updated on: 12.08.2006 at 11:19 pm

RE: What color white did you paint your cabinets? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: beachlvr on 11.28.2006 at 06:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

I love very white whites so I used BM Super White. I know that many other people have used BM White Dove and loved it.


benjamin moore whites
clipped on: 11.29.2006 at 11:12 am    last updated on: 11.29.2006 at 11:12 am

RE: So you don't have to go to my clippings... (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: rhome410 on 11.11.2006 at 02:36 am in Kitchens Forum

Here is the photo Girlwithaspirin put in the thread you mentioned:

Here, also, is the kitchen designed because of the kitchen in the movie "Somethings Gotta Give". I wish I had all the info for the original link, but this is just what I'd saved for my own use, so I hope it's OK to include in a post.:


clipped on: 11.12.2006 at 11:38 pm    last updated on: 11.12.2006 at 11:38 pm

RE: 'Period-Inspired' (aka Pottery Barn) FINISHED Bath Pics - fin (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: buffalotina on 08.17.2006 at 01:25 am in Bathrooms Forum

Baseboard was custom made by my contractor. It is 7.5 in high. Then beadboard is 45 in high and chair rail is 3.5 in high for a total wainscot height of 56 inches. The beadboard was from Nantucket Beadboard and I got it in 4 ft long shiplap pieces.

Yep floor tile is 1 inch mosaics that come on a 2ft x 1ft mat.

Vent fan is panasonic and is right over the tub. I did not want it staring at me in the middle of the room because I wanted my period pendant light there:

Ceiling is 7 feet and tile goes to ceiling.

Thank you for the nice comments. I have to start feeling not so angry about the bad tile job and how I was fleeced. Once a few final details related to tile and tub repair are taken care of and I get that darn curtain up then I must really start to enjoy this bathroom.

The design really was quite easy and was really based on my love for the square memoirs sink, Rejuvenation period lights and that Restoration Hardware train rack. Oh and the fact that I tore out a medicine cabinet just like the Rejuvenation one I put in. The original was gooked up with layers and layers of paint and I just could not cope with restoring it. I still have it though. Those pieces, plus the absolute determination to have a pocket door and an alcove rather than a linen closet sort of guided everything. I must add I was very very lucky to have an extremely talented contractor whose carpentry skills are amazing. The trim for the plain old vinyl window and the door were entirely hand crafted from stock poplar lumber to match the trim in the rest of the house. He also made the chair rail and the baseboard the same way.

Best of luck with your bathroom,



beadboard height
clipped on: 10.03.2006 at 01:18 am    last updated on: 10.03.2006 at 01:19 am

RE: Glossy backsplash tiles (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: bill_vincent on 08.14.2006 at 08:43 am in Kitchens Forum

BINGO, on BOTH counts. I've done several bathrooms with white subways tile where I've used white grout, and the more I look at them the more I think it's just too plain. It loses alot of the effect, and comes across as just wall covering as opposed to a design element.

In addition, common sense would dictate that it wouldn't look as dirty.


clipped on: 09.09.2006 at 11:05 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2006 at 11:05 pm

RE: Glossy backsplash tiles (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: whitevenetino on 08.13.2006 at 07:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

Tex, plain ol' Dal Tile Arctic White (or Ice White, I can't remember exactly), $3.69 per square foot, light grey grout (which I think was important). Good luck with your choice!


clipped on: 09.09.2006 at 11:04 pm    last updated on: 09.09.2006 at 11:04 pm

RE: What white subway tile did you use? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: splinky on 09.06.2006 at 11:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

we used lanka subway tiles. ~$2/sf at nemo tile in new york


clipped on: 09.07.2006 at 11:03 am    last updated on: 09.07.2006 at 11:03 am

RE: Where do you buy your lights/faucets/sinks? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: solferino on 09.05.2006 at 01:40 am in Kitchens Forum

We bought faucets at, a sink on eBay (seller was Home and Stone, in Brooklyn, NY), and lighting from, and I did purchase some fluorescent (Title24 regulations here in CA) from a local lighting supplier, though.

No bad experiences yet!


clipped on: 09.06.2006 at 12:09 am    last updated on: 09.06.2006 at 12:09 am

RE: Where do you buy your lights/faucets/sinks? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: sarahandbray on 09.04.2006 at 02:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

I bought where I could find the lowest price for each of the items I wanted...

Quality Bath for the Rohl farmhouse sink.
Homeclick for the faucet/soap dispenser (and Insinkerator).
Probably Rejuvenation Lighting for the one over-the-sink fixture I need.



clipped on: 09.06.2006 at 12:08 am    last updated on: 09.06.2006 at 12:08 am

RE: tile crisis help please-jonmari or bill any ideas? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: buffalotina on 09.05.2006 at 08:17 pm in Bathrooms Forum

My subway tile is American Olean Greenwich Village in Designer White which is a matte finish. Grout is Spectralock Pro in Smoke Grey.



clipped on: 09.06.2006 at 12:02 am    last updated on: 09.06.2006 at 12:02 am

RE: What white subway tile did you use? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: whitevenetino on 09.05.2006 at 05:30 am in Kitchens Forum

kptwin, thank you and glad to be of help. I happen to be a designer and I, for one, do not think the "designer" subway is worth the price if you use a grey grout. The regulat American Olean and Daltile look authentic to me (that is what was actually used in the 1920s in a lot of NYC pre-war bathrooms, for example). Only difference is that they sometimes had more square corners than these . . . . JMHO, though.


great note
clipped on: 09.05.2006 at 08:09 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2006 at 08:09 pm

RE: What white subway tile did you use? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: whitevenetino on 09.04.2006 at 08:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

American Olean Ice White, $3.69 per square foot, light grey grout. This is what it looks like:Image hosted by
by whitevenetino


clipped on: 09.04.2006 at 11:32 pm    last updated on: 09.04.2006 at 11:32 pm

RE: Pics of white subway and/or hex with gray/silver grout? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: bill_vincent on 07.27.2006 at 04:15 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Carlos-- You can get rittenhouse bullnose either with the 3" side bullnosed, or the 6" side bullnosed, as well as outcorners with two adjoining sides bullnosed. Obviously, you have to specify either a right or left outcorner. :-)


rittenhouse tile
clipped on: 09.04.2006 at 03:27 pm    last updated on: 09.04.2006 at 03:27 pm

RE: Pics of white subway and/or hex with gray/silver grout? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buffalotina on 06.14.2006 at 08:37 am in Bathrooms Forum

I am getting ready to post final pictures of my now finished bathroom, but here are ones I took a while back. Johnmari and Bill V. helped me through any worries I may have had about white vs. grey grout. After doing the grey I absolutely LOVE it and would have been really unhappy with white. My tiles are AO Greenwich Village in Designer White (Matte tile) and AO White unglazed 1" floor tile with Sterling Silver accent tiles. The grout is Spectrlock smoke grey on both walls and floor.

Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: Subway Tile with Grey Grout


clipped on: 09.04.2006 at 03:25 pm    last updated on: 09.04.2006 at 03:25 pm

RE: tile crisis help please-jonmari or bill any ideas? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: johnmari on 05.16.2006 at 06:28 pm in Bathrooms Forum

12x12s and 4x4s are a far cry stylistically from subway tile and beadboard! If you want subway tile, by all means use subway tile, and to heck with what the tile dealer says! With a color on the walls and liberal use of color (even if it's just a range of more browns "piqued" in two or three spots around the room with a little surprise bit of color like pink or robin's egg blue) in accessories and textiles the white subway plus white beadboard will be fine. The classic thing for you to be using on the floor (which I think is one of your questions?) is a mosaic tile, something 2x2 or smaller, and the ultraclassic would indeed be white (gray grout please, friends don't let friends use white grout) which you could liven up with rugs. Remember, you aren't restricted to "bathmats", you can put an Oriental rug in the bathroom if you want to! (And there are enough inexpensive ones out there to do so.) Perhaps instead of a very traditional hexagonal or square tile you might like an unusual mosaic tile called "pennyround" instead. Or one of my personal favorites, a pinwheel pattern like American Olean's "Chloe". (And of course AO's site is down right now. Phooey.) The cool thing about Chloe is that you can purchase the white pinwheel part by itself and fill in the centers with any 1x1 (which I think is technically 7/8"x7/8") your little heart desires, you are not restricted to their (admittedly quite nice) options.

For inspiration on a brown-and-white-with-beadboard bath remodel, check out MrsMarv's bathroom in the Gallery. Her walls are more "chocolate milk" than "chocolate" but the whole effect is still very nice.


clipped on: 09.04.2006 at 03:19 pm    last updated on: 09.04.2006 at 03:20 pm

RE: happy happy joy joy, happy happy joy joy... (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: johnmari on 08.31.2006 at 03:14 am in Bathrooms Forum

kptwin, they are horribly expensive! Everything's taken a flying leap in price too, I think because of the rise in fuel costs. My fittings are Elizabethan Classics brand, from - they had the most reasonable prices and very good customer service. EC is a Chinese product (most of the less expensive clawfoot plumbing is) but the plumber said they were very nice, sturdy and heavy. If you like chrome you can get the faucets MUCH cheaper, but I'm just not a chrome person at all. Several people gave Kingston Brass faucets from eBay good reviews last year. I did brushed nickel a) because the original sink had brushed nickel legs and b) to emulate the look of worn old nickel, which was standard before the 1930s when chrome came in.


claw foot tub hardware
clipped on: 09.03.2006 at 11:59 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2006 at 11:59 pm

RE: Getting the Rohl Farmhouse what FAUCET? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: sarahandbray on 08.30.2006 at 02:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

I finally decided after going to a local showroom and looking at and handling the different brands. Turns out, I LOVED the way the Danze looked in person and it's very substantial feeling. The lever on the side is SMOOTH and feels like it (hopefully) will last a long time.

So here she is--just got it today--in SS from Homeclick for $283 (no tax/no shipping). I LOVE it--and speaking of the TKO thread that's going on--it's ME photographing my faucet that I just took out of the box. I am definitely a dork!

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting



clipped on: 08.30.2006 at 10:53 pm    last updated on: 08.30.2006 at 10:53 pm

RE: Getting the Rohl Farmhouse what FAUCET? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: blsdgal on 08.16.2006 at 08:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

You will love this sink and the perfect faucet is the Moen Aberdeen ;-)

Here's a not great pic of mine. I have four holes including the one for the air thing (garbage disposal). Make sure you put your soap dispenser hole a little closer to the edge than the other holes to insure hitting the sink with the soap. This is a tip I picked up from someone here.

I love my faucet--worth taking a look. My house is very traditional. Hardware is antique pewter and faucet is Moen's "stainless steel".

BTW--I have the 36" sink and although I love it, the 30" sink is plenty big.

Here is a link that might be useful: moen aberdeen is SS


clipped on: 08.30.2006 at 10:51 pm    last updated on: 08.30.2006 at 10:51 pm

RE: Do 2' hex tiles exist? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: kevsea on 06.12.2006 at 09:31 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Yes we just had our 2 inch white hex's delivered. They were hard to find. They are made by a compnay called "thompson tiles". No web site. not sure if they are a pacific NW company. They look good in the box. We were initially going to use the 1.5 inch hexs from ann sacks which were very expensive. I believe the hex's from AO and dal are one inch?


clipped on: 08.30.2006 at 08:53 pm    last updated on: 08.30.2006 at 08:54 pm

RE: Do white cabinets detract from home value?!?!? Help!! :) (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: girlwithaspirin on 08.30.2006 at 12:56 am in Kitchens Forum

I shoot commercials for a living, and recently, I was looking for a house with a gorgeous, modern but timeless kitchen. We looked through photos of probably 150 houses in Pasadena -- easily $1 million and more -- and I'd say 140 of them had white kitchens with cup pulls. It was bizarre, to say the least, but each one was more stunning than the next.

Imagine this place with lots of original woodwork, and I think it's pretty obvious... ain't nothing detracting from the home value there!


clipped on: 08.30.2006 at 07:59 pm    last updated on: 08.30.2006 at 07:59 pm

RE: Sink & Toilet for 1918 bathroom (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: johnmari on 06.02.2006 at 08:54 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Have you read Jane Powell's "Bungalow Bathrooms" yet? She offers a LOT of good advice on picking fixtures, and many excellent pictures. The Schmidts' "Victorian Kitchens and Baths" is also quite good even if you're not working with a Victorian house.

Avoid one-piece toilets, they are too anachronistic. If you are being Slave To Period, you'll need to go somewhere like Mac The Antique Plumber, Bathroom Machineries, etc. for a raised-tank toilet (not necessarily the 6-foot-tall number but at least the kind where there is a pipe between the tank and the bowl, rather than the tank sitting on the bowl). Personally out of the Toto line I think the Promenade is visually most appropriate, since the tanks on earlier toilets were very blocky and square rather than angled the way modern ones are. Although it does not have the GMax flusher it has still gotten excellent performance reviews on this forum. That said, I chose the Toto Whitney for my "faux old house" (I'm an old-house ho stuck in a newish house... pity me! LOL) bathroom because the shape of the tank echoed the shape of the sink (American Standard Retrospect with the metal console legs), which I chose for the large "landing zone" at the back but lack of protruding corners at the front. Spend your bucks on a good toilet, because it's not that hard to find a fairly decent sink for a lower price, and a lousy toilet is a long-term source of misery.

The coolest low-tank old-timey toilet IMO: Mac the Antique Plumber's Pillbox toilet IIRC it's a replica of a 1920s model.

With sinks, again, how "authentic" are you looking to be? What style is the house? A sink suited to a modest bungalow could look a little odd in an, oh, Queen Anne! How much space do you have to work with (a MAJOR consideration)? One leg, two, or four? Are you going to need storage? (If so, consider the antique-dresser retrofit a la this guy - there are instructions on the WWW.) I'll risk ticking a lot of people off and say that if you put a Kohler Memoirs in there you are basically stamping "mid-2000s remodel" on there - it is pretty much the trendy sink of the last couple of years. Would you consider architectural salvage? eBay? Craigslist? People still throw these out! has excellent prices and even better customer service. They've gotten quite a bit of my money and will get more. :-)


clipped on: 08.28.2006 at 05:37 pm    last updated on: 08.28.2006 at 05:37 pm

RE: Sink & Toilet for 1918 bathroom (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: jejvtr on 06.01.2006 at 11:51 pm in Bathrooms Forum


Just did this in a bathroom - our house is 75yrs old - Toilet is likely not correct era but I believe the rest is

almost done
still need hardware, med cab
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


clipped on: 08.28.2006 at 05:36 pm    last updated on: 08.28.2006 at 05:36 pm

RE: Hex mosaic tile is expensive! (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: pchow on 08.04.2006 at 06:02 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here's another source for hex tile, ceramic, glazed and unglazed:
American Universal
I think their price is comparable to Daltile, but I like their colors better.


clipped on: 08.28.2006 at 05:29 pm    last updated on: 08.28.2006 at 05:29 pm

RE: Hex mosaic tile is expensive! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: konfusedkat on 04.03.2006 at 02:07 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Check out American Olean's "Chloe" line. It is a very classic pattern (like hex and basketweave.) As you will see, they offer a "stainless" accent center tile, or you can get the tiles without a center accent tile and supply your own (perhaps your grey glass tile.) I love this look and may choose it over a basketweave mosaic if I need to reduce costs.


bathroom tile
clipped on: 08.28.2006 at 05:28 pm    last updated on: 08.28.2006 at 05:28 pm

RE: Hex mosaic tile is expensive! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: barb7901 on 04.03.2006 at 12:02 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Check out Crossville Empire tile series. I bought a beautiful basket weave pattern for my master bath. It's polished porcelain and it looks very much like marble. I thought marble was too expensive and fragile. Can't remember how much I paid for it though but it was much less than marble.


hexagon tile
clipped on: 08.28.2006 at 05:27 pm    last updated on: 08.28.2006 at 05:27 pm

RE: Hex mosaic tile is expensive! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lazygardens on 04.03.2006 at 09:35 am in Bathrooms Forum

DalTile Keystones Mosaic Hexagon is $4-7 per square foot ... even at a discounter.

And was that installed price (which wouldn't be too bad).


hexagon tile
clipped on: 08.28.2006 at 05:27 pm    last updated on: 08.28.2006 at 05:27 pm

RE: Subway tile price?? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bill_vincent on 07.06.2006 at 07:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

There's about 7 different colors for Rittenhouse Square subway tile, and if you pay more than 2-2.50 a foot, you're getting ripped off.


subway tile
clipped on: 08.22.2006 at 08:23 pm    last updated on: 08.22.2006 at 08:23 pm

RE: tung oil finish on pine - any thoughts on maintenance? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: woodswell on 03.26.2006 at 10:37 pm in Flooring Forum

If yom want to preserve the deep stained or naturally aged patina of your floor, you may want to strip them rather than sand. The Real Milk Paint Company has great information on stripping and refinishing with tung oil:


How to Finish a Floor with Pure Tung Oil

Soy-Gel Professional Paint Stripper

The article below is one person's experience with doing this.

Here is a link that might be useful: How a Wood Floor Can Be Like A Cast Iron Frying Pan


clipped on: 08.22.2006 at 07:40 pm    last updated on: 08.22.2006 at 07:40 pm

RE: Many thanks to this forum! Finished and enjoying our new kitc (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: wilsonb on 06.06.2006 at 05:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

aktillery - Thanks!

You forced me to really look for the rest of my info! Here's the paint and tile information:

Backsplash tile - ADEX URBAN 3" X 6" flat field tile in celery (I've linked it below, but it even looks ivory in the link! It is a very subtle green!)

Kitchen cabinets BM halo - OC -46
Kitchen woodwork - BM White Down -OC/131 (Semi-gloss)
Wall/Ceiling: Duron Madonna Lily - 8191W (Eggshell)
Panelled walls and woodwork: BM White Down (Semi-gloss)
Brick walls: Duron Madonna Lily
Beadboard ceiling: Duron Sahara Gold 7733M (Flat)
woodwork and shelving: White down
Walls and ceiling: Madonna Lily

I did have some help with the colors. The different off-whites would have made me crazy, but they all work well together.

p.s. aktillery - the Sahara Gold beadboard ceiling is the only holdover from our previous kitchen. (Of course we had to demolish and rebuild it!) We love that color and have it all over our house! It just seems to work on that ceiling!

Here is a link that might be useful: backsplash tile


clipped on: 08.20.2006 at 01:31 pm    last updated on: 08.20.2006 at 01:31 pm

RE: Fireclay sink that isn't apron front? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: klb_2000 on 06.01.2006 at 09:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

Aren't period kitchens fun?

The faucet is by Harrington Brass--I don't really know much about the company, and they are rarely mentioned on this board, but they were just about the only option for a wall mounted faucet with a side spray. I think Herbeau has some as well, but they are a different style. Based on my few weeks of usage, it seems to be good quality! With the help of this board, I found a pretty good price on it at As for the wall mounted vs. deck mounted decision, I was pretty sure about the wall mount from the get-go--I just think they are cool! If you don't care about the side spray, Chicago faucets has some great looking options, are reasonably priced, and get great reviews on this board.

The kitchen cabinets are custom, from Crown Point (Thank God I have a really small kitchen--you can practically see the whole cabinet order in that one picture!).

For countertops, I had originally been pretty well set on soapstone, but in the end it just seemed too hard to be able to see/select a slab locally, and I really would have been disappointed if the slab I ended up with had too much green veining or blotches. Since my floor is pretty colorful, I decided it would be better to stick with nice matte black Richlite on the countertops. Honestly, I haven't quite picked out the backsplash tile.....but I'm planning on some shade of white subways, or maybe something a bit bigger and squarer than the 3"x6" subways. We'll see!

The pendant over the sink IS from Rejuvenation (it's the 'Maywood' in chrome) but the other fixture is from Seattle Building Salvage (great to visit in person, but also online at I think that light might be my favorite thing in the kitchen so far--it's on a dimmer, so I've spent LOTS of time turning the dimmer up and looks sort of spaceship like when it's just on a little bit!)

And yes, the floors are Marmoleum 'click'. Love them! They were a late decision--I had originally been planning on sticking with the original fir floors, but I'm so glad I went with the lino. Here is a better picture for you:

Good luck with your decisions!


wall mount sink with sprayer
clipped on: 07.15.2006 at 11:45 pm    last updated on: 07.15.2006 at 11:45 pm

ps RE: Another high darn champagne taste (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: flyleft on 02.10.2006 at 01:55 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I ask because there are some absolutely beautiful Kohler cast iron "shower receptors" -- Kohler cast iron, extremely high quality and gorgeous design, easy installation--what's not to love? I saw one in a multi-million $$ "street of dreams" house last year; that's how I found out about them. The only issue is that they come in only a few sizes. But if your shower will be one of those sizes, you're way down a creek not even needing a paddle :)


shower receptor
clipped on: 07.01.2006 at 04:53 am    last updated on: 07.01.2006 at 04:53 am

RE: What do you think of this vanity for kid's bathroom? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: frankie58 on 06.20.2006 at 02:53 am in Bathrooms Forum

I say if you love the look go for it. BUT, personally, I think the "open look" vanities are not very practical. I don't know how big your bath is, if it would have more storage somewhere else to make up for the loss of storage underneath the sinks? Also, I am not a fan of the fabric curtains instead of doors, especially in a bath for kids. You would be laundering the fabric all the time. I agree that undermount sinks are infinitely more practical than vessel or otherwise top mounted sinks. And when you are putting together a bath for kids, practicality should be paramount.There are TONS of double sink vanities that would fit wonderfully in the cottage style look you are after. I've included a link to one at Restoration Hardware.
My 2 cents.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cottage style vanity


kids vanity
clipped on: 07.01.2006 at 04:48 am    last updated on: 07.01.2006 at 04:48 am

RE: Ann Sacks Chateau / Walker Zanger Tiberon field tile (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: yadax3 on 06.27.2006 at 11:38 am in Bathrooms Forum

Thanks everybody! I just called WZ's Las Vegas showroom and I feel so much better now. Turns out the shape of the tile makes all the difference. Tiberon brick (i.e. subway) is $11 sf and 6" x 6" squares are only $10 sf. It's hard to believe a diamond-shaped tile can cost 3 times as much as a square tile but they said it's because they're hand-made. Thanks for suggesting I check the prices again!


clipped on: 07.01.2006 at 04:43 am    last updated on: 07.01.2006 at 04:43 am

RE: 'Something's Gotta Give' Kitchen Counters - What are They? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: harper on 06.05.2006 at 06:36 pm in Kitchens Forum

I read this on another forum a couple months ago ...

Pchow, I found it! In winter 2005 of Renovation Style Magazine is a kithchen that was based on the movie, "Somethings gotta give". If you can't get the mag, I have it. Here are some of the items/colors they used:

Cabinetry color- BM Dune White
Cabinetry hardware- Restoration Hardware
Backsplash- white subway tile
Countertop- Absolute Black honed granite
Wall color- BM White sand
Trim color- BM White Dove
Chandelier- Hubbardton Forge
Faucets- Julia satin nickel; Waterworks

Also, the kitchen in the movie was featured in Architectural Digest, November 2003

Hope this helps :)


Here is a link that might be useful: 9th post


clipped on: 06.06.2006 at 01:23 am    last updated on: 06.06.2006 at 01:31 am