Clippings by kksmama

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Punch Lists

posted by: CEFreeman on 12.09.2014 at 07:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Based on a few, "Is this OK" threads here, I thought it might be helpful to have a standard-type punch list for people who are ready to sign off on their kitchens and/or renos. I'm hoping the KDs here will chime in.

I'll start:

  • Drawers that open well, not impeded by lack of spacers.
  • Soft closers are installed and work.
  • Cabinet doors are hung straight. i.e. plumb and level. Check your miters.
  • Check any veneers for adhesion.
  • Drawer fronts are installed plumb, level, and in line with the ones above and below, spaced well between each other.
  • Do pull-outs (you must be new here) pull out smoothly and with full extension?
  • Hardware is aligned with the other hardware, up, down, side to side.
  • Cabinet end pieces are installed.
  • Crown molding is installed and corners look good. Lined up, mitered properly, and caulked & painted where necessary.
  • (Get this) Kitchen faucet has its stoppers in right, so it doesn't spin over the countertops on either side.
  • Is your sink caulked? Is it in straight? Is it centered?
  • See if your garbage disposer works.
  • Can you turn on your water? Pressure? Does it leak underneath your sink?
  • Is the oven set right? If it's a stove top, is it in straight? Set correctly? Does it work? Is it caulked?
  • Your hood. Is it at the proper height? Where does it vent? Does it work? Is it unGodly loud?
    Your lights.
  • Are the ceiling pot lights in the correct places?
  • Are your pendants centered how you'd like them? Are they level? Do they work?
  • Are any 2-way switches working properly?
  • Is your UCL installed well? No wires? IMHO, it should be at the front of the cabinets. Where are the switches?
    DW.
  • Does it work? How does it affect your water pressure?
  • Does your wine cooler cool? (Do people really need this?)
  • Coffee station. Does it make espresso to go with your Reese's cups? Does it work?
    Tile. Floor and/or back splash.
  • Is there lippage? Cracks?
  • Grout all over? Did they use the right color of grout?
  • Bullnose where necessary?
  • Is it sealed?
  • Is any stray caulk removed, rather than painted over?
  • Is the drywall finished well? No nail pops, no tape showing through?
  • Is it painted well? All drips cleaned up. Smears off the cabinets and woodwork. Ceiling line cut in well?
    Countertops:
    If you have laminate, are the edges routed well? Seams well done? Smooth? (Slide a penny across the counter & make sure it'll slide over the seams.)
    Stone. (Someone else's gotta jump in here)
    Butcherblock? Smooth? Sealed as you'd asked?
  • Does your fridge open well? Not impeded by lack of space? Does it work?
  • Does your icemaker work? You've got your warranty papers?
  • Did they clean their hand prints off the cabinets, woodwork and trim? Did they sweep up and pick up the garbage reno creates?
  • Have you posted pictures of your kitchen on Gardenweb?

    I've gotta stop. There was a lot more in my head than I'd expected.
    What have you learned that you should have noticed?
    What would you tell the next person who is ready to sign off?

  • NOTES:

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    clipped on: 12.10.2014 at 08:42 am    last updated on: 12.10.2014 at 08:42 am

    Master Bath reveal

    posted by: phylhl on 03.14.2013 at 12:29 pm in Bathrooms Forum

    At long last, the roman shade is up so I can reveal. This is my first try embedding pix in a post, so hopefully it will work:

    Untitled

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    The wardrobe just outside the bathroom:
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    Steam shower:
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    My 2 niches:
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    The new, more practical faucet spouts:
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    Let's see if this works then I'll post more details.

    Generally:
    Ivory supreme granite
    Marble mosaic by Jerusalem Heights - Manhattan basketweave
    Fixtures - Rohl and Hans Grohe in polished nickel
    Lights - Hudson Valley sconces and Crystorama chandelier.
    Steam unit is thermasol.
    Kerdi shower pan and waterproofing, thanks to GW!
    Towels - Target Fieldcrest luxury, thanks also go GW.

    We are loving it! Thanks for all of the great advice and help from GWers. Will work on posting pix of the other 3 baths now.

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 09.16.2014 at 08:47 pm    last updated on: 09.16.2014 at 08:49 pm

    RE: Found My Granite Slab What do you Think?? (Follow-Up #101)

    posted by: lascatx on 07.31.2014 at 11:27 am in Kitchens Forum

    The advise you get here is free. It's value is in what you make of it. Keep in mind than no one here is going to be standing behind that choice when it's in your kitchen, you hate it and are looking at paying to rip it out. Or have cabinets that get damaged in the process, etc. Slabs of stone are not within the do-over budget of most folks.

    You have a lovely slate floor laid in a pattern that shows it off well. You really don't need to be ripping it out or covering it up with rugs that will add more patterns (even a solid rectangle is another pattern).

    Keep in mind that you go to the stone yard and are looking at slabs -- as slabs. Nothing else -- just "what jumps out and grabs my attention here?" Obviously, you are drawn to patterns and movement. But that stone yard isn't your kitchen and a rack of slabs is not the way it is going to live or work in your kitchen.

    Every kitchen requires us to make choices and leave some of what we love on the editing floor. Picking the most fabulous in every element is how you wind up with a room full of clowns and wanting to cry into your coffee. Editing is an important part of the process -- maybe one of the most important parts, but there is something out there you will love. You might not pick it on its own, but you will love it as part of the whole room. Look at them as parts of a whole -- not as wholes themselves.

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    clipped on: 08.02.2014 at 01:02 pm    last updated on: 08.02.2014 at 01:02 pm

    RE: DIY Kitchen Reveal (Follow-Up #37)

    posted by: edb2n on 07.28.2014 at 06:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Thank you everyone so much for the kind words!

    Tinker, here's a close up of the plate wall. The center one is an antique deviled egg plate (milk glass with gold trim) from DW's grandmother. The rest are from Old Time Pottery open stock ($2 a piece). And it is a tv on the wall, which freed up space in the breakfast nook.
     photo imagejpg1_zps86e6fb76.jpg

    Kksmama: Here is a close up of the knobs. We saw them on a bathroom display at Lowe's and loved them. They're Kraftmaid. They come in a few finishes; ours are polished nickel. I can't remember the name right now, but if you're interested I can look them up.
     photo imagejpg1_zps79ca554a.jpg

    JessHS: the banquette is made of three single upper cabinets turned on their side. I built a base out of 2x4" and built a seat out of 1/2" plywood. It was really pretty easy. I just bought the unfinished stock cabinets at Home Depot for around $50 apiece.
     photo IMG_5710_zps8dcb8cc4.jpg

     photo imagejpg3_zps2c3fd49b.jpg

    Romy: thank you! it's definitely my wife with the good eye. She gets these visions and tells me to "Get on gardenweb and figure out how to make that work."

    NOTES:

    knobs and banquet
    clipped on: 07.29.2014 at 10:54 pm    last updated on: 07.29.2014 at 10:54 pm

    Blum Servo Drive Install Question

    posted by: yuki-chan on 02.05.2014 at 10:50 am in Kitchens Forum

    I was wondering for all of you that have the Blum Servo Drive for hands-free trash drawer opener, does your trash drawer stick out further than the rest of the drawers? How is yours installed so that there's enough room to 'nudge' the cabinet in, to trigger the Servo Drive mechanism? My cabinets are all soft close and have full overlay. Right now the door sit flush againt the cabinet box when closed and can't be 'pushed in'. Thanks!!

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    clipped on: 02.07.2014 at 05:25 pm    last updated on: 02.07.2014 at 05:25 pm

    RE: Cabinet Pricing: It's all about the context and options (Follow-Up #19)

    posted by: live_wire_oak on 12.27.2013 at 11:58 am in Kitchens Forum

    I actually had an appointment the other day with an interior designer who is doing her own personal kitchen. She gave me basic measurements and told me it was a blank slate, to have at it with the ideas, she didn't want to influence me. She wasn't interested in price so much as the possibilities for the space that she hadn't thought about.

    I worked up 6 different possibilities that she could do. No real involved design work, just "what if we moved the doorway and then put the fridge across the aisle or what if we did a peninsula here" type of fast sketches. Maybe an hour of work. I arranged the sketches in the order of the least change to the space to the most change.

    She sat down and immediately threw out 2 of the 6 (the one with no changes and the most changes) briefly considered 2 more, and then zeroed in on 2 definite possibilities. At that point, she paid the retainer because she could see that we could work together. I then more fully developed the 2 ideas with actual designs and prices. She didn't expect full designs and prices of 6 different possibilities. Nor did she expect to take any of the printouts of the ideas with her without paying a deposit. Even though she is a design professional, she valued my input as a specialist in the field who does 50x the kitchen projects that she does.

    My design work is "free" in that my salary is paid by the cabinet purchase. It's not free to everyone who walks through the door to take and shop around. I own it until the cabinets have been paid for. If you do not purchase cabinets from me, you do not get the design.

    Nor do I have unlimited time to do price estimates for those who are still shopping around. If someone brings me a cabinet list to quote, of course I will gladly do that, as my prices are more than competitive. (I beat the last HD price quote by 9K in the same cabinet brand, so don't expect box stores to be cheaper than a dealer on anything when you are talking actual like to like quotes.) But it gets NO design work whatsoever beyond maybe some verbal suggestions if they actually bring in a layout. Nor will it until the person shows that they are actually interested in collaborating with me for their kitchen.

    Perhaps that explanation of my process helps with your expectations of what you should be getting from a KD. Remember also that communication is a two way street and it's just as important to talk about your own expectations to see if you are a good fit with the person across the desk.

    MDLN, I'd suggest talking to Eka at ProSource West Loop, as she is extremely creative and knowledgeable, but only if you are willing to get engaged and stop dating. :)

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    clipped on: 12.27.2013 at 09:23 pm    last updated on: 12.27.2013 at 09:24 pm

    RE: layout help (Follow-Up #17)

    posted by: buehl on 11.22.2013 at 12:16 am in Kitchens Forum

    Here's an option....

    mommytoc's Kitchen #1 photo mommytoc1a_zps568519bb.jpg

    • First, note that I made two changes to structural items:
      • The door to the screened in porch has been moved to the left 9"
      • The windows have been moved 12" to the left

      These two moves give you more space for the DW without trapping it in the corner. There are 12 inches b/w the right DW and the corner. The Dish Hutch is still 42" wide.

      If you find you cannot move the door 9" but can still move it 3" to 6", then the Dish Hutch could be reduced to 36" or 39". Both are still respectable sizes and will hold a lot of dishes & glasses.


    • Speaking of the Dish Hutch, the upper cabinet goes to the counter and is 13" deep to accommodate dinner plates. That extra 1" of depth shouldn't take too much away from the counter in front of the upper cab, but it will make a difference in what you can store in it.

    • This plan gives you plenty of prep space where you need it and where it will be most useful and natural to prep

      • Primary Prep Zone: 45" on the island directly across from the rangetop. The prep sink is right next to it for a water source.

      • Secondary Prep Zone: 51" (12" + 21" + 18") b/w the corner and the rangetop to the left of the rangetop. The cleanup sink is nearby - it's not as close as the sink is in the primary Prep Zone, but it is easy to get to - assuming no one is trying to load/unload the DW while you're working there. [These two reasons are why it's the secondary and not the primary Prep Zone.]

      • The counterspace on either side of the cleanup sink would also work as a prep space, but only for occasional use as that counter will most likely be taken up with the needs of the Cleanup Zone - and the DWs are in the way.

    • The trash pullout next to the rangetop is situated so that it will be easily accessed from both Prep Zones and the Cooking Zone; it's also not too far from the Cleanup Zone.

      Alternatively, it could be located in the island across from the rangetop - but it may not be as easy to get to it from the Cleanup Zone - but it might be OK there as long as it's on the far end from the prep sink (so there is a 24" cabinet b/w the prep sink base and the trash pullout).

      As to its location in the Prep & Cooking Zones - far more trash and recyclables are generated while prepping and cooking than while cleaning up and since prepping and cooking combined are the lion's share of time spent in the kitchen (>80%) - you're also generating the trash/recyclables for a longer period of time. So, the trash pullout is best located in the Prep and Cooking Zones.


    • Both DWs are next to the cleanup sink. It is much better ergonomically to have them next to the sink than it is to have them in the island where you have to twist and turn to load dishes.

    • The refrigerator has been moved to the right wall so it's accessible from both Prep Zones and the Cooking Zone without having to run around the island or dodge an open DW.

      Note that I put a 6" filler or pullout to the right of the refrigerator. The reason is two-fold:

      (1) If you need a new refrigerator in the future and decide you don't want to get another all-refrigerator (or they're wider), then you have 38" to play with. Refrigerators seem to be standardizing on 36" in width and 72" in height - so having the space to fit one in the future could be priceless.

      (2) I'm not sure if the refrigerator will need a bit of space b/w the wall and the refrigerator doors to allow the doors to open fully. I know it's a built-in, but built-ins are designed to go b/w cabinets that are 24" deep on each side. When I looked at the picture of the Electrolux & Frigidaire, it looked like the doors still had to stick out past the surrounding cabinets. If that's the case, then you will need to either reduce the depth of the wall to no more than 24" or include filler b/w the wall and refrigerator. Personally, I recommend both (if a 36"refrigerator goes there later, you will need the wall to be shallower)

      This location puts the refrigerator so it's easily accessible from not just the Kitchen, but also from the dining spaces (banquette and DR) and the Great/Family Room.


    • I also recommend reducing the depth of the walls surrounding the bottom section/alcove - otherwise, the freezer may also need a few inches b/w it and the wall.

      The landing zone for the freezer is the island across the aisle. It puts the food near where you will be using it for prepping and cooking rather than next to the freezer where it will have to be picked up again and moved to the island. [I have found that even though I have landing space next to my refrigerator, the peninsula in front of the refrigerator is easier to use - in part for the reason I just mentioned and b/c it seems easier to use it.]


    • The ovens are next to the freezer. The landing zone for the ovens can be either the island or the counter next to the ovens. [Note that just as I find the peninsula easier to use as refrigerator landing space, I have also found that I prefer to use the (2nd) peninsula for landing space rather than the counter next to my ovens. My aisle is the same as yours (>46"), so you may find the same thing.]

      Above the ovens is tray space - cooling racks, cookie sheets, roasting pans, etc. You can also store large platters in this space b/c of the depth of the cabinet (24"). [see my tray storage for an example]


    • To the left of the Ovens & Freezer (left as you look at the plan), is a stretch of 85" of counterspace that is split into two functions: Snack/Beverage Center (5 feet) and a Message Center (2 feet).

      • The Message Center (2') is placed so that you have to pass by it to get to the Mudroom from the rest of the house and you pass by it when coming in from the Mudroom - so it's perfect for putting keys, cell phones, the family calendar, etc. It's also located so it's easily accessible from the Kitchen and Great/Family Room - so the land-line phone and/or answering machine can also be in that space.

        There have been quite a few creative setups for Message Centers on this site, search for "Message Center" or "Command Center" to see some ideas.

      • The Snack/Beverage Center (5') has an optional undercounter refrigerator for storing things like juice, water, butter, and other items for the Center. While it's not really all that far from the main refrigerator, I thought it might be handy to have one right there - and those items won't be taking up space in the main refrigerator! There is also a trash bin in the Center.

        Note that by moving the Snack Center to the left, someone making a snack will no longer be in contention for floorspace with someone working at the island. This also means the aisle doesn't have to be quite so wide. There's nothing in front of the Center, so there's lots of room for traffic.


    • The island is 63" deep and 84" wide. It's big enough for a prep sink and still have plenty of empty space for large baking projects (like Christmas Cookies), for staging appetizers during a party or dishes for a potluck/buffet, and for craft projects. Note that two of the cabinet are 27" deep - if your cabinetmaker can provide them. If not, then make the 33" cab that opens to the left 36" wide.

    • The MW drawer is in the island. It's situated to it's not too far from the Snack/Beverage Center and not too far from the Prep and Cooking Zones.


    Did I miss anything? :-)


    So, what do you think?


    Here's the Zone Map...

    mommytoc's Kitchen #1 - Zones photo mommytoc1aZones_zps46931efb.jpg

    NOTES:

    Ideal layout
    clipped on: 11.22.2013 at 06:52 am    last updated on: 11.22.2013 at 06:52 am

    RE: What kind of paint should I use to paint oak kitchen cabinets (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: bbstx on 11.01.2013 at 06:45 am in Kitchens Forum

    I painted my oak bathroom vanity black. I found the same hinges at Home Depot in black and changed out all of the hinges. I took my doors off and painted them while they were laying flat. Take your time. Let each coat dry thoroughly. Pay attention to wiping drips off the edges of the backside.

    I am reposting below exactly the steps I followed.

    There was a person who used to post on the kitchen forum quite frequently. She had re-done several houses. She advocated painting cabinets as follows (I've cut and pasted her advice from several different threads):

    I only use high quality nylon (Purdy) brushes. I prefer them for wood finishes. They cost more but they last forever!

    This is exactly what I use:

    Sherwin Williams PrepRite ProBlock Interior Exterior Seals and Bonds, Latex primer (be sure you get exactly that one...it says BONDS on the label). It's made to cover shiny surfaces and bond tightly, and I've used it in several kitchens, and on all of my interior woodwork and it does BOND!! No sanding, just wipe down your cabinets with either a TSP and water mixture or a little vinager and water to get rid of grease.

    This stuff is wonderful. I've converted many naysayers to the primer because you really don't have to sand or use a deglosser, and even if they're thermafoil...it will BOND and you'll have a finish you can then paint on. :O) It's so much easier. I just love it (I just picked up another couple of gallons last night). And the finish will be tough as nails by the way. I personally also like to use a high quality sherwin williams paint.

    I use one coat primer and let it dry a day at least, then two coats (one day between at least) of paint with a good Purdy brush (which is important). With just one coat the grain still effects the paint, but with the two on top of the primer you get that nice smooth look :)

    I'm a paint freak, so forgive me for saying this if you know. Don't use rollers for wood. I like a 1 1/2 inch and a 2 1/2 or 3" brush at the most. The smaller works well on the small areas so you don't drip or oversmear the sides of the project.

    I have painted several cabinets using the SW primer without any other prep work, except making sure the cabinets were relatively clean. So far they have held up fine.

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    clipped on: 11.01.2013 at 08:30 am    last updated on: 11.01.2013 at 08:30 am

    RE: Natural Cherry Reveal - Photo Heavy (Follow-Up #8)

    posted by: lucas_tx on 11.01.2013 at 07:56 am in Kitchens Forum

    Thanks bookworm. We love the kitchen, we fixed all the things that really bugged me when I cook and it's so much more functional and has so much more storage. We're not broke and we still like each other. All very important. Looking back at the thread I do see that I kind of focused on the details which lots of people ask about but didn't get many good shots showing a little more perspective, so I might try to add some of those. Harder to get though since since it's only about 10x10. You can only get just so far away. :-)

    Do have a couple of gratuitous food shots from the "kitchen warming party"

    Sundried tomato palmiers

     photo IMG_0471_zps3c924254.jpg

    Phyllo prosciutto wrapped asparagus (forgot to take a shot after cooked but really good and really pretty)

     photo IMG_0473_zpsba5bed05.jpg

     photo IMG_0472_zpsc63461ae.jpg

    Caprese skewers

     photo IMG_0474_zps211da431.jpg

    Neighborhood came over enjoyed the food and oohh'd and ahh'd over the kitchen. In our 1980's neighborhood, this kitchen is an overachiever vs. on this forum where it's dwarfed by it's bigger relatives.

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    clipped on: 11.01.2013 at 08:06 am    last updated on: 11.01.2013 at 08:06 am

    RE: Toe kick drawers - worth it or a waste? (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: loves2cook4six on 02.12.2011 at 03:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I have them as well and love them too However, my cabinets were custom built and the toe kick area of the cabinets was incorporated into the bottom drawers making them deeper.

    This is my can storage

    Can Storage

    and this is how they look from the side:

    Photobucket

    Excuse the dust, these were taken during construction. These open by just hooking your toe under the trim and pulling. You can push them shut with your foot as well.

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 08:51 am    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 08:52 am

    RE: Calling all In-Sink-Erator GD owners (Follow-Up #8)

    posted by: philwojo99 on 07.26.2013 at 10:01 am in Appliances Forum

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    clipped on: 09.16.2013 at 08:00 am    last updated on: 09.16.2013 at 08:00 am

    RE: Too busy? Opinions wanted (Follow-Up #19)

    posted by: badgergal on 08.21.2013 at 09:00 am in Kitchens Forum

    Texasgal made a very good point about the grout color. I used a dark grout (onyx green) with my tiles and it definitely has a different look than a sample board at the tile store that used a tan grout.
    To try and show you the difference here is a close up of my tile. ( I think the difference is actually more noticeable in real life.)
    image

    And a website image with tan grout
    image

    I think the grout lines disappear with the dark grout. IMO seeing all the grout lines is what would make the tile look busy

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    clipped on: 08.27.2013 at 07:38 am    last updated on: 08.27.2013 at 07:38 am

    RE: Too busy? Opinions wanted (Follow-Up #14)

    posted by: palimpsest on 08.20.2013 at 09:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

    If you are really set on a smallish mosaic, my tendency would be to go with a very small mosaic blend that became textural. Ann Sacks Trend is a 3/4" mosaic that comes in 100+ colors and starts at $8.00/sq ft. You can select the blends and you may be able to come up with a blend that avoids both "boring" and "busy".

    Remember, that unless you keep your counters completely clear, that a backsplash is really a backDrop to what is kept on and what is prepared on the counters. You are looking at empty kitchen counters and this might be why you think you need "more". If you keep your counters empty, maybe so, but if you have a typical kitchen "more" in the background may shift toward "too much".

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    clipped on: 08.27.2013 at 07:37 am    last updated on: 08.27.2013 at 07:38 am

    RE: Recommendations for undercabinet powerstrips (mount on cabine (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: a2gemini on 04.06.2013 at 01:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Andrea - I looked through my kitchen materials and didn't find it - I think it might be this as I have a vague recollection of "wire mold". For code - you must have a GFCI version.
    Ours are black, the link shows an ivory version - the key is the strip of angle wood to mount it - much better than the commercial version which actually mounts on the backsplash just under the cabinet trim. I am not sure of the brand but the HD version looks like it might be a match.

    http://www.legrand.us/wiremold/at-home/surge-protection-and-power-stri ps/v20gb506-plugmold-multi-outlet-ivory.aspx#.UWBQ8r-wtzo

    I also found ivory at Home Depot
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wiremold-Legrand-Plugmold-6-Outlet-Ivory-Ha rdwire-3-ft-V20GB306/100657491#.UWBW5r-wtzo

    One thing to remember - if you leave something plugged in all of the time - you will have the dangling cord - which is why I chickened out - in retrospect, I would have used an air/laser switch for my disposal and nuked the wall switch at that location.
    Used only one switch for UCL and nuked the wall outlet in my baking area.
    The corner outlet - take it or leave it - DH leaves his coffee machine plugged in.

    2LittleFishies - mounted standard boxes under her cabinets.

    Hope this is somewhat helpful.

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    clipped on: 06.16.2013 at 05:39 pm    last updated on: 06.16.2013 at 05:39 pm

    RE: White kitchens with dark floors- I don't get it (Follow-Up #43)

    posted by: hollysprings on 05.27.2013 at 11:46 am in Kitchens Forum

    Contrast is the design element of making dark surfaces work correctly for you in whatever context, even monochromatic color schemes. Using light colors for vertical surfaces and dark colors for horizontal surfaces moves the eye around the room, which makes it appear larger visually. The lower contrast of light on light can appear "bright" but generally doesn't "feel" as large because of the low contrast. The popular white on white kitchens would be very static and sterile without some type of dark surface in the mix somewhere for all of that light to play off of. There is nothing to stop the eye when you have white counters on white cabinets with a white floor. That dark element that creates a visual grounding could just as easily be the black slate of my 40 year old entryway as it could be the "current" popular dark wood. The design principle is the same, regardless of the material.

    You CAN do dark on dark monochromatic schemes, (the opposite of the white on white kitchen) but again it's the light elements in the room that make it work in a balanced way and give the room the "lift" that it needs to relive the eye from all of the similar value elements. Think of a room with dark purple walls, black woodwork, and dark stained wood floors. Put in a dark red couch and oriental rug. Seems overpoweringly dark in your mind, right? Now, put in a white couch and add just a few white accessories like a leaning bookcase and chandelier. Keep the dark red oriental rug. The couch seems to "float" in the room, and now it works. The eye sees the space as visually larger because it moves from the light object to the light object, with the dark, "disappearing". (If the lighting is right, and that's a whole other discussion.)

    Contrast between light and dark as a design element works, no matter if the materials are currently popular or not. And it's why most "safe and neutral" color schemes appear to be so bland and fail so spectacularly in the hands of non professionals. Mid toned beige on beige doesn't offer any contrast for the eye.

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    clipped on: 06.13.2013 at 06:28 am    last updated on: 06.13.2013 at 06:28 am

    RE: Not A Happy Granite Installation :-( (Follow-Up #6)

    posted by: MM99 on 05.16.2013 at 11:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

    @sniff: It was not SGM. However, my DW tells me that she did contact them too and their quotes were very much in line with the ones we got from our fabricator. We did not go with them since they seemed a little out of our way. But having said that, all the other quotes we got from other fabricators were much higher (~$1-2K). Sadly, now we know why. Irrespective of whichever supplier/fabricator you choose, I would suggest following this checklist after you've narrowed down the stone you like. I wish someone had written these before we made our decision. I guess that is why they say "hindsight is 20/20".

    Narrowing Down Supplier/Fabricator:
    1. Get quotes from all fabricators in your proximity for all the reputed stone suppliers. Between the fabricator and the stone supplier, I think there is a many-to-many relationship.
    2. Talk to the lowest two, mid two and the highest two fabricators on how they will template the work, perform the installation etc. That should give a good assessment of why the prices differ.
    3. Ask for references of previous work done. Contact references and ask them to share experiences. If possible, schedule an appointment with the references and go see the fabricator's work. Keep an open eye on how the seams look like, corners were cut, allowed distance between the wall and the stone, quality of polish work on the stone, quality of edging, time it took to do the install etc.

    Narrowing Down The Stone:
    1. Once you've narrowed down to the supplier and the fabricator and are ready to put slabs on hold, take a camera with you and click as many pictures of the slabs as possible.
    2. Wet a cotton towel/rag and dab the interesting stone(s) with as much water as possible. See how quickly it absorbs the water and changes color.
    3. Clean the entire slab and run your hand over it to identify any physical blemishes.

    Ready To Order Stone:
    1. Make a note of the slab number. If possible, take its picture too.
    2. Make sure the supplier gives you a "hold confirmation" in writing, identifying the "full" slab numbers.
    3. Ask them to mark your preferences on the confirmation if holding more slabs than needed.
    4. Send a copy of the confirmation to your fabricator.
    5. Re-affirm your preferences of slabs on hold and your requirements in terms of workmanship. Tell them clearly that you are not going to pay if the work is not to your standards.
    6. Negotiate the deposit amount (In hindsight, our 50% now seems higher). Insist on making payment by "Credit Card".
    7. MOST IMPORTANT: Be present physically when the stone is being delivered by the supplier to the fabricator. Make sure they are sending the slabs you want and they still intact.

    Ready for Fabrication:
    1. All edges touching any part of the granite should be firmly in place when they come for templating.
    2. Keep an eye on how they are templating. You should be able to tell if they are focused on doing a good job or not.
    3. Repeat the quality of workmanship you expect WRT gaps, edges, polish, seams etc. IMHO, on the fabricated stone, the edges touching the walls should be as straight as possible and the exposed edges should match the stone surface in terms of appearance, color and feel.
    4. Re-iterate that you are not going to pay anything more if the work is not to your standards.
    4. MOST IMPORTANT: Ask fabricator to not cut stone unless you've confirmed one more time which slabs they are going to use.
    5. If possible, keep a close watch on your work by visiting the fabricator atleast once or twice before installation.
    6. Take a tape measure and measure each cut slab to ensure it is the right size and will fit almost perfectly.

    Ready for Installation:
    1. Ensure the slabs are still the same.
    2. Video record the entire installation process. This will help you replay what steps were done/missed.
    3. Do not accept any BS on anything you do not like.
    4. Make the remaining payment again using Credit Card.

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 05.17.2013 at 03:32 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2013 at 03:33 pm