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My finished kitchen
posted by: jerzeegirl on 01.28.2013 at 10:20 pm in Kitchens Forum This is my second kitchen remodeled with the kind assistance of my Kitchen Forum (and Hot Topics) friends
Here are the details. Cabinetry Countertop Backsplash Appliances Sink and Faucet Kitchen Aid Hood Flooring Lighting
Here is a link that might be useful: My Kitchen This post was edited by jerzeegirl on Mon, Jan 28, 13 at 22:44 NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 02.02.2013 at 09:46 am last updated on: 02.02.2013 at 09:46 am
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More banks of drawers than double door cabinets: wise or foolish?
posted by: akcorcoran on 01.31.2013 at 09:31 pm in Kitchens Forum So, we are ordering our cabinets next week and in looking over the final plan, I realized that I have only one set of a double door lower cabinet.
All the others are either three or four-drawer banks. We started with assessing what we have in the kitchen and what I use, and I kept coming back to things that could go in deep drawers - tupperware, pyrex bowls and dishes, service pieces, etc. Right now, all the stuff in our two-door lower cabinets is kind of stacked and jumbled. We're also 5' 11" and 6'1 tall. And, we have a 24" full-size pantry with pull-out shelves in it. The double door cabinet is to the right of the stovetop (very right of the attached drawing. Am I right to go that direction or do you think I should switch something to a door cabinet on bottom? Thanks for your advice! P.S. Specifically, to the right of the ovens, I changed those from a drawer and two doors to a bank of four drawers. My rationale is that things that would go there include: drawer of non-traditionally sized cutlery, cooking utensils; drawer for saran wrap, aluminum foil etc.; tupperware and other misc sized serving pieces. Does that seem like the better choice? NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 02.02.2013 at 09:32 am last updated on: 02.02.2013 at 09:33 am
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RE: Shiloh cabinet pics anyone? (Follow-Up #14)
posted by: pps7 on 03.10.2012 at 08:45 pm in Kitchens Forum We have Shiloh in our entire house: if you do a search, you may find lots of pictures that I have posted.
kitchen: inset, polar white. the inset came with upgraded hardware: full extention and soft close. Love it! dining room. acorn maple with brown glaze. Wyatt door. master bath. espresso maple. Wyatt door/ drawers. For the basement bar, we used their cheaper sequota line since it won't get much use, we got the praline maple which is very pretty. The quality is not as good, but good enough for the basement. We got thermafoil in the laundry. It's actually very nice- I was surprised by how much I liked it. NOTES: main bath inspiration
clipped on: 01.12.2013 at 09:47 am last updated on: 01.12.2013 at 09:47 am
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RE: What should I change - lots of input requested (Follow-Up #12)
posted by: oldbat2be on 12.24.2012 at 07:57 am in Kitchens Forum As the other posters have already said, your kitchen looks very nice! Intially, I thought you had posted an inspiration picture.
Upon closer inspection, I do understand your desire to simplify the room and to remove certain elements. I painted cabinets in my first home and in this one too, and hated repainting and touching up. Hope to never paint another cabinet! The factory finish is so much better. I very much like the idea of the SS hood, to tie in with your lovely SS cooktop/range. You could continue the tile all the way up and use a hood like this: Or, replace with a gorgeous hood like this (I can't find a smaller version, but my point is the rounded front is lovely. Try incorporating SS into other elements, too. Easy change: swap out the utensil canister with a SS one. I like the color of the island and the floor very much. Have you considered getting rid of the soffits? You could buy new upper cabinets fairly reasonably and color match the paint on the lower cabinets and just repaint them. We went with Conestoga's door style and purchased their RTA cabinets. Interiors are lovely and we have the Blumotion softclose hinges on all. We're very happy with the quality. I just checked our quote; if I'm reading it correctly, an upper wall cabinet CSWALL 30x36x18 (we had deeper uppers) was $260 for the cabinet and $180 for the doors. So, consider $500 per cabinet, uninstalled. Perhaps an option? Our pantry: Best of luck! oldbat2be NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 12.24.2012 at 08:15 pm last updated on: 12.24.2012 at 08:15 pm
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RE: Please explain the allure of a farmhouse sink (Follow-Up #8)
posted by: honeychurch on 02.22.2011 at 09:26 am in Kitchens Forum I have a 33" soapstone farmhouse sink. My last couple of houses all had double sinks and I found them frustrating, mainly because I couldn't fit larger baking dishes, cookie sheets, cutting boards etc in the sink without them sticking up all over the place, interfering with the faucet and being awkward to rinse, etc.
I only handwash a few items and when I do I am a soap-it-up-rinse-it-off gal, not a fill-up-the-sink-and-soak-stuff gal. So the two bowls were not helpful to me in that respect. I also disliked having to clean around the edges (both top mount and undermount), I never felt like I could get them as clean as I wanted. I second the motion about being able to pile a lot of dirty dishes in there or deal with multiple large items at once. Also, having an old house it does seem to fit with the era more. In the end, it all comes down to your aesthetic preference. And I certainly have seen many cool double and triple sinks here with built-in drainboards and cutting boards and interesting shapes that I might have considered if my kitchen went another way. Here's my sink: NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 12.22.2012 at 11:37 am last updated on: 12.22.2012 at 11:38 am
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Replacement Furnace/Central Air Input Please
posted by: darrenq on 06.27.2012 at 12:59 pm in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum Currently:
4 BR, 2.5 bath home. Finished Basement ~800 sq ft, Main level ~ 1000 sq ft, Upper level ~800 sq ft. Existing system was installed circa 1995 by previous owners. Furnace: Lennox G23Q3/4-125-1, 125k in, 100k out.
Current system generally works OK. Basement is generally warmer than needed in the winter and rather cold in the summer, perhaps due to ductwork issues. Main level is generally fine. Upper level is fine in the MBR, where the thermostat is located, but the other bedrooms farther down the duct are progressively worse. The last one needs help with a small space heater and ceiling fan. We seem to have an increasing number of repairs in the last few years, most recently the startup cap for the fan motor needed to be replaced as the fan would not start. Will likely get a few quotes. The two companies we have used seem to suggest Trane and Carrier. I might be able to get a reasonable price for those brands and some others through a relative as well. Looking for reliable models and to improve to a high efficiency furnace and A/C. Perhaps a 3 .5 ton or 4 ton 16-18 SEER for AC (current is 10-11 SEER?) and 95-97% furnace (80% now I think?) This is in the Chicago area. Windows and doors were replaced 2 years ago with added insulation. Any suggestions on brands or models we should consider for quotes? Should we bite the bullet and do both now, or perhaps put in the furnace and maybe the coil this fall before winter and new A/C condenser next spring? Thanks in advance! NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 07.14.2012 at 07:24 pm last updated on: 07.14.2012 at 07:25 pm
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Water hammer problem
posted by: olychick on 04.18.2011 at 11:25 am in Plumbing Forum Last year I had an upstairs bath remodeled. Since then, there is a water hammer somewhere, whenever the water is turned on/off anywhere in the house. Can't tell where. Years ago, this was a problem in a former house and the plumber told us to do something that fixed a similar problem, but I can't remember. He said something like we need to get air back into someplace in the piping designed to "cushion" the pipes under pressure??? So he had us either: open all the valves and turn off the water to the whole house, OR turn off the water at the main, then open all the valves and turn on the water at main then close all the valves, OR turn off water, open all valves at once, then close and then turn water back on. It worked, whichever it was. I notice last week that our water was off because of a power outage (am on a well) and I opened several faucets, just out of habit to draw water or wash hands and nothing but air blasted out. When the water came back on, the hammer was fixed. YAY!!! But now, slowly it has returned. Any ideas the reason/problem/solution?
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 11.19.2011 at 10:47 am last updated on: 11.19.2011 at 10:47 am
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RE: help me decide between solid/engineered hardwood floors (Follow-Up #13)
posted by: inspector on 05.25.2011 at 03:36 pm in Flooring Forum You can get an engineered floor that is as good if not better than a solid product. We produce solid unfinished flooring but we also produce unfinished engineered flooring as well. Solid flooring typically has a 1/4" (6mm) of "sandable" or "usable" surface. Basically after you get 1/4" deep you'll hit the nail heads and so you can't sand below that point. Our engineered unfinished product has a 5mm wear layer. However, the engineered product is already pre-sanded to 80g which means once installed the amount of sanding that takes place is minimal. On a solid floor, most contractors will need to do a rough sanding to get the floor even, then one or two more cuts to get it smooth. Even if you have a very talented sander he is going to take 1/32 off in his sanding on the solid floor. That equates to roughly 3/100 which is nearly the difference between the 6mm and 5mm usable surfaces we began with. So in essence, you are getting very close to the same "usable" surface. Not to mention the engineered is more stable, will keep you from having to install a subfloor as it can be glued directly to concrete, eliminates transition issues between hardwood and tile or carpet AND should take less time to install. My two cents. Sam @ Real Wood Floors realwoodfloors.com
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 05.30.2011 at 07:08 pm last updated on: 05.30.2011 at 07:09 pm
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RE: Violas anyone? (Follow-Up #4)
posted by: roper2008 on 04.19.2010 at 07:57 am in Cottage Garden Forum I always have viola's. They are such cheery little flowers. They do
self sow. I have Bowles Black viola that I purchased from SSE 2 years ago all over my garden. That one really self sows. These I bought last year. ![]() NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 04.02.2011 at 03:49 pm last updated on: 04.02.2011 at 05:29 pm
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RE: How much do frameless glass shower doors cost? (Follow-Up #24)
posted by: edymoreno on 05.06.2010 at 12:22 am in Bathrooms Forum We paid $1500 for our enclosure with Starphire glass. The sides are both 1/2" glass, and the door is 3/8". The company does all their own fabrication of the glass and tempering.
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 03.24.2011 at 06:29 pm last updated on: 03.24.2011 at 06:29 pm
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RE: Looking for round 60' pedestal dining table. (Follow-Up #2)
posted by: mandomama on 08.24.2010 at 12:19 am in Furniture Forum Here are a few I found online. I don't know any of the price points other than the Ethan Allen, as it was listed. I don't know what your budget is either. Are you going to have any other furniture in your room other than the table? A 12x13 room with a 60" table + 6 chairs + buffet or anything else is going to be a really tight squeeze. You generally want to leave a minimum of 2-3' of floor space between the outside of the dining chairs and any other furniture for traffic. If the table is the only thing in your DR, than you'll have plenty of space. If you are wanting to add anything else, your guests will have a really tight squeeze getting in & out of their seats. My DR is 13'6"x17" and I have ruled out a 60" table, which is what I really wanted. With the table, chairs, & buffet, it would be a really cluttered room.
Here is a link that gives some good tips on room planning, scale of furniture, minimum space requirements, etc. Hope this helps. http://www.mgbwhome.com/nadia_rdin.asp NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 09.25.2010 at 03:59 pm last updated on: 09.25.2010 at 04:00 pm
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If you love your knives, please share
posted by: kayl on 09.21.2010 at 05:21 pm in Kitchens Forum I would have thought I could find a previous post on this, but didn't find anything in the search. Does anyone have a knife set that they love & would recommend? Also, if you have a knife manufacturer that we should stay away from please share. Thanks!
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 09.22.2010 at 09:36 pm last updated on: 09.22.2010 at 09:36 pm
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Share your backsplash pics for a good cause!
posted by: rookie_2010 on 08.16.2010 at 01:50 pm in Kitchens Forum I'm noticing a lot of members are mid backsplash right now. There are many good resources for inspiration such as www.houzz.com and the backsplash slideshow, part of the Finished Kitchen Blog. I agonized over the backsplash too and know how hard it is to make decisions and conceptualize everything grouted with the right grout color, among other things. I wish I'd asked everyone to share when I was trying to decide among the endless materials, combinations, configurations of backsplash.
So please help out some folks and share your backsplash, finished or in progress, plain or fancy. Mine is finished, I just want to see some pics! Also, feel free to reminisce about your first impression of your backsplash un-grouted or grouted.
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 08.25.2010 at 09:34 pm last updated on: 08.25.2010 at 09:35 pm
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RE: counter poll for those in the planning stages (Follow-Up #10)
posted by: palimpsest on 01.29.2010 at 05:20 pm in Kitchens Forum Right now I am only picking for other people but my preferences in order are soapstone, fairly monolithic quartzes and quiet granites.
If money was no object Lavastone, or full fabricated stainless depending upon the setting. I think things are going to skew toward plain stones/quartzes with an occasional showstopper in granite, quartz or Concetta et al., and move away from the granitey-looking granite, which is becoming the Formica of the 2000s I like formica too, I never rule it out. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 01.30.2010 at 09:57 am last updated on: 01.30.2010 at 09:57 am
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my kitchen is done!!!! before and after pics
posted by: zecchini on 11.08.2009 at 11:47 pm in Kitchens Forum Thank you all for your help! I can't count how many times I checked this site for ideas and solutions for my kitchen dilemas.
All the old posts with pictures were so helpfull that I decided to return the favor, and add pictures of my newly remodeled kithen with some details of the things that really took me a while to figure it out if I wanted or not... or if I should or not. Overall my kitchen costed 16.000, I know that our kitchen had a lot of potential, but our budget mas very short, and at the end we were 1000 over budget,because we decided to replace our cabinets in the laundry room too, but we were very happy, we were able to get all wood cabinets, stainless steel appliances, lazy susan, pull out drawers in the pantry, got rid of some walls that I disliked and got the granite that I dreamt for so long! I hope my pictures could help someone else in the future. Me and my husband LOVE our kitchen!!! Now we are ready to remodel our 2 bathrooms! "To save money, we decided to keep almost the same layout, we extended the peninsula by few inches so we could add a garbage pull out." "We had a mix of black and stainless steel appliances, we decided to make them all stainless. The fridge door could not be open without the the fridge handles hitting the peninsula, so we decided to switch the pantry position with fridge(best decision)!"
I hope someone will find this pictures helpfull. Thanks you all sooooooooooo much!
NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 12.31.2009 at 06:22 pm last updated on: 12.31.2009 at 06:22 pm
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RE: PLEASE help with photo questions!! (Follow-Up #5)
posted by: buehl on 09.27.2009 at 10:26 pm in Kitchens Forum How to post a link (any link) is in the "Read Me" thread.
BTW...if you see the picture above, then Photobucket is working fine. NOTES: <none>
clipped on: 09.28.2009 at 01:03 pm last updated on: 09.28.2009 at 01:03 pm
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