Clippings by katsmah

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: Sanded or Unsanded grout? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: Angie_DIY on 04.12.2012 at 11:15 am in Kitchens Forum

Unsanded. You only need sanded on joints 1/8" and wider.


clipped on: 04.12.2012 at 02:17 pm    last updated on: 04.12.2012 at 02:17 pm

Finally have a backsplash!

posted by: kngwd on 03.02.2012 at 10:02 am in Kitchens Forum

Well, I've had a functional kitchen for months & months now...actually pushing a year!! But somehow those last little things never got down. So now I finally have a backsplash! I must say it wasn't my first choice (the budget ran out ages ago!!!), but I am very happy with it! DH spent his whole mid-winter break (he's a teacher) getting it up and I love!! Hopefully I'll have window treatments, grout and switchplates by the weekend & I'll post better pics!!!




clipped on: 04.06.2012 at 12:02 pm    last updated on: 04.06.2012 at 12:03 pm

RE: Today's Feedback on the House-Priceless (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: ICFgreen on 12.28.2011 at 10:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

LavenderLass made me think of something else.

Source: via Jen on Pinterest

When we listed the house, we had a letter to prospective owners with all the things we loved about the house (including things that the realtor couldn't say, like how fabulous our neighbors were), a top 10 list of amenities that might not be immediately noticed (or remembered after a long day of house hunting) and a binder with all user's manuals, maintenance records (noting things with lifetime warranties), average utility costs, paint chips, stain and stone samples and colors, etc.

When our buyer came out of the title office, he shook our hand and said, "Thanks so much for taking such good care of my house." The realtor said that the binder gave our house the edge, and because all the records were together, even the inspector said there wasn't anything he could/should ask for other than cleaning the gutters before we left. We're certain it's what got us the higher selling cost compared to our comps, as well.


clipped on: 12.29.2011 at 11:22 am    last updated on: 12.29.2011 at 11:22 am

RE: undermount sink sealing (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: azstoneconsulting on 06.17.2011 at 10:21 am in Kitchens Forum

At the risk of sounding "self promoting" which I am not trying to be here (some dude gets all bent out of shape every time I mention that I've been in the Industry for over 33 years) = ANYWAYS......

Here's MY Opinion and feedback on MY Experiences:

I have had NO USE FOR GE SILICONE II - It is Ca Ca in my opinion - for what I need it for....

PURE 100% Silicone caulk (GE makes a couple of varieties as well as DAP and others) is what has worked FOR ME, however, I have had the BEST results (day in and day out) using acrylic latex caulks - such as Alex Plus. It's WAY easy to use, clean up is a breeze, and it lasts a good long time.

Another brand of caulk that I have used in the past with OUTSTANDING RESULTS is "POLY-SEAM-SEAL" . The Polyseamseal is less flexible than some of the conventional latex acrylic caulks, but it holds like iron and my customers over the last three DECADES have had no complaints....

just my opinion and .02 cents for what it's worth - again...

not trying to be "self promoting"




clipped on: 06.17.2011 at 11:00 pm    last updated on: 06.17.2011 at 11:00 pm

RE: Kitchen Help!!! Need creamy cabinets with white appliance pi (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: honorbiltkit on 12.29.2010 at 10:46 am in Kitchens Forum

Here's an example where the walls and woodwork are painted the same color as the cabinets, so that white stunningly becomes the accent color.


cream and white kitchen.
clipped on: 12.29.2010 at 12:28 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2010 at 12:28 pm

RE: Tile's in - see pic - Mapei grout color Q (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: bmorepanic on 12.28.2010 at 08:24 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm thinking I would go for the silver to see the subwayness a little more and tie to the stainless color a little more. But if I was standing in front of the actual tile, I might feel differently - its that subtle.

Be aware that the sticks aren't exactly color matched to the grout.

Mapei color matched caulk is exactly what you want to use on the bottom seam between the tile and the stainless. In your photo - also between the tile and the window casing. I'm guessing you're adding a light rail to the bottoms of your cabinets so I wouldn't bother to do anything between the tile and the cabinets. If you want more of a finished edge, it would be caulk.

Clear caulk might be used between granite and tile, but it won't make as nice a finished look as it won't hide anything along the edge - like the tiny bits of yellow along your bottom edge..

The "rules" for caulk are at changes of material or change of plane.


Mapei color matched caulk
clipped on: 12.28.2010 at 11:23 am    last updated on: 12.28.2010 at 11:23 am

RE: Help! Grout line between counter and backsplash crumbling! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lisadlu on 11.09.2010 at 06:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

You should use a silconized caulk between the counter and backsplash tile. It is flexible (even if it doesn't feel flexible) so won't crack. You should be able to easily dig out your grout and do caulking. The caulk we got was right next to our grout and came in colors that matched but I've heard other people have used the all-purpose kitchen and bath caulk. Good luck!


clipped on: 11.09.2010 at 09:02 pm    last updated on: 11.09.2010 at 09:03 pm

DIY - No Tile Cut Backsplash - See Mine! (pics)

posted by: haley_comet on 10.18.2010 at 09:22 am in Kitchens Forum

Perhaps this is 'old news' but it wasn't for me till someone told me so I thought I would share my experience in tiling my kitchen backsplash without having to do one single tile cut.

This only works with certain tiles types that come in various tile sizes.

I purchased what I wanted which was a 2x4 polished marble in a brick mosiac.

The tip I received was to then purchase several sheets in a 2x2 as that is a perfect cut half of a 2x4!


Then I purchase a couple sheets of 1x2's which again was another half of 2x2 and a perfect quater of a 2x4.


Again perhaps this is obvious trick that many know about but maybe my post will inform one person who did not know and it may inspire them to do a DIY and give it a try.

One very important note is that you need to PREPLAN your tile placement and start points prior to any mortor - preplanning ensures that your tiles fall properly over plugs and lightswitches to perfect accomadate the sizes of tiles that you have.

Here are some pictures of my - please ignore the mess and note we are not done - we still need to grout etc etc but we just did this work last night. The whole process took us about 4 hours.




We were also pretty pumped as we purchased our tile on Craiglist. It is a Crema Marfil polished marble that was purchased from Turkey from a housing developer in my area who purchased too much and we got it for 1/3 the price - a total steal!

Anyways hope this was written clearly and it helpful. I will post final product pictures once we are done.



clipped on: 10.18.2010 at 12:50 pm    last updated on: 10.18.2010 at 12:50 pm

RE: attractive faucet for water filter (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: hestia_flames on 07.16.2009 at 11:29 am in Kitchens Forum

I am posting a photo of the connection between our filter line (not Reverse Osmosis) and the line to our water faucet. The blue line on the right is from the water filter, then you see the reducing connector, then the hook up to the the line going to the water faucet (ours is also the Kohler K-666 - ours is Vibrant Stainless with the Vinnata being our main faucet.) Maybe it will help your plumber? You should also either call or email Watts - I was looking at their online manuals and faq page for you, but there may be a reason for not giving you "connecting" information? Maybe there is not - I recommend getting it from them in writing to show your plumber.

connector from H20 filter line to faucet line


hooking up other filter to kohler 6666 wellspring
clipped on: 10.02.2010 at 10:41 am    last updated on: 10.02.2010 at 10:42 am

RE: electrical outlets in the kitchen backsplash (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: circuspeanut on 09.16.2010 at 12:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

I was DIY, but we did the same thing that Palimpsest describes. I actually measured exactly and DREW the subway tile pattern with a Sharpie onto the drywall, so I'd know exactly where to insert the outlet box before tiling.

We love it because the appliance in front of the outlet covers it completely, with no cord hanging down from below the cabinet (or wall).

It does require cutting out a 3x6 tile with a Rotozip or similar tool, which is nitpicky but most professional tilers should be well up to the job.

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic


clipped on: 09.16.2010 at 12:25 pm    last updated on: 09.16.2010 at 12:25 pm

RE: electrical outlets in the kitchen backsplash (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: palimpsest on 09.16.2010 at 09:21 am in Kitchens Forum

On a project we had the electrician leave an extra long tail of wire and the carpenter put a horizontal nailer between the studs at 39" above the finished floor all along the backsplash. (for one row of tile between countertop and outlet, you could do any X multiple of 3" above the countertop for X rows of tile)

We did not have the electrician affix any boxes until the subway tile was figured out. When the subway tile pattern was determined the boxes were placed horizontally so that they aligned with the tile perfectly: each box fits within one tile and the only cut tile is the extra two inches that make up the 6" of the tile, since the box is 4" long.

So each outlet and plate fits into the over all pattern.

Did the electrician like doing this? No, he was annoyed. But it looks great.


clipped on: 09.16.2010 at 12:24 pm    last updated on: 09.16.2010 at 12:24 pm

RE: Plugmold, Wiremold, etc. (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: alku05 on 01.14.2008 at 04:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

We did basically the same thing as needanap; mounted a wood angled block and then mounted the regular plugmold to that. Putting the plugmold directly on the wall works fine, but the angle does make it easier to use. I believe lowspark has good pictures of her plugmold mounted on the wall directly below the upper cabinets.

Here's a picture of our wood angle block. Our GC just ripped it from some redwood he had. It doesn't show, so I wouldn't pay the big bucks for cabinet-matching wood.


And with the plugmold installed:


Let me know if you'd like more pictures. Also, if you do decide to do the angled wood, let me know and I'll give you more details about it's shape. I know it just looks like a wedge, but it's a bit more complex than that because you have to allow room for the space the backsplash tile takes up.


clipped on: 09.03.2010 at 11:34 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2010 at 11:34 pm

RE: Help me! I think I'm falling... (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: chana_goanna on 07.13.2010 at 04:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

I was just reviewing the "light kitchen" thread that I'd bookmarked and lo and behold, look what boxerpups had posted there:

I KNEW she would find a photo for me (although in this case she didn't even know she came through for me!).


green countertop
clipped on: 09.01.2010 at 12:00 am    last updated on: 09.01.2010 at 12:00 am

RE: angled plugmold? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: needanap on 12.18.2007 at 08:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

Plugmold is just a strip of outlets. It can be used in place of traditional outlets so as not to interrupt the backsplash. Most people mount it at the top of the backsplash, just under the cabinets, so it is out of sight, but I've also seen it mounted along the bottom, where the counter and backsplash meet (then you don't see dangling cords). I've also seen it used on the side of an island, under the granite edge. Most plugmold is flat, but they also make an angled version, which fits neatly in the corner, to make it easier to plug things in. However, I believe angled plugmold is much more expensive. My installer used flat plugmold, but mounted it on an angled block of wood, to achieve the same result. I love it! Having it on the angle makes it very easy to use. I did not put in any traditional outlets as buehl suggests, because I don't leave any of my appliances plugged in all the time. Just depends on your needs. Here is a picture of mine.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket


angled plugmode and uc lighting.
clipped on: 08.07.2010 at 10:45 am    last updated on: 08.07.2010 at 10:46 am

Beautiful green soapstone installed (pic heavy)

posted by: tatter on 06.18.2010 at 01:19 am in Kitchens Forum

Finally! My soapstone counter tops are IN! What a long road, but it was totally worth the wait. Today was picture day. Plenty of both waxed and unwaxed stone to show everyone (I'm using Dorado's dry wax instead of mineral oil). Unlike those who want "quiet black" soapstone, I wanted green with lots of veining and movement. And that's exactly what I got! I LOVE IT! Let the slide show begin (except I should note that my wood floors aren't nearly this yellow. They're actually more of a deeper reddish-orange color that complements the reddish tones of the cherry cabinets quite nicely. For some reason my camera refused to show the true color.)

First, a photo of the whole (well, half) the kitchen (which is still in progress by the way -- still no backsplash in or half the appliances), with unwaxed stone --

Now a similar view with the counter tops waxed --

When I started waxing I did a big swipe to show the difference between the waxed and unwaxed stone --

One of the small side counter tops, unwaxed --

Same small counter top, waxed (wow I sure love these thick chunky deep white veins!!!) --

There are a few spots on the stone that have these large flecks of what looks like bronze metal. It's probably just large flecks of mica, but it reads like embedded metal (which just about leaves me silly, I love it so much) --

These last pictures are just various shots of the waxed counter top. I tried to get views of the various colorations and veins and spots and marvelous wonderment of this beautiful stone :) --




clipped on: 06.19.2010 at 12:24 am    last updated on: 07.22.2010 at 01:24 pm

Finished Soapstone Kitchen - Pic heavy

posted by: mamalynn on 01.01.2010 at 03:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have been reading the kitchen forum posts for months. I have no design skills and rarely had anything to offer. But I have learned a lot by reading the posts and looking at the pictures of all the wonderful kitchens! This is truly a great site because there are so many talented people who freely give of their time to offer advice, inspiration, and support. I thank all of you!

Not everything is put away yet, I still need those decorative touches, the banquette cushions are out being re-worked (they were too high), etc., but I love, love, love cooking in this kitchen! And I cook all the time - almost every lunch and supper and occasionally breakfast.

We bought our house new in 1981. In 1989 I closed in the deck to create a room for me. The kitchen window over the sink that looked out onto the deck became a leaded glass window looking into my room. At that time I had the upper cabinet doors removed and those cabinets painted and I changed the wallpaper and the vinyl floor as the old floor had not held up well. Nothing has been done to the kitchen since then except for the occasional new appliance as an old one died.

None of this was DIY - neither of us has any talent in that direction.

Since I built in the banquette, I was able to move the peninsula out by about a foot which allowed me to make the island a little longer. Originally the peninsula had what I assume was meant to be a breakfast bar, but it was much too narrow to be used. I had that cut down to make one large area and the overhang now extends out a bit more.

The only extra space I was able to add to the kitchen is at the coffee bar. The space for the frig already extended into the utility room and the space that had the oven and the pantry extended into the garage. I extended the rest of that wall into the garage by the same amount, roughly 6.5 ft x 2.5 ft. That gave me room for a slightly large pantry and for the coffee bar.

Here are the specifics -

Counters and sink - Iguazu soapstone from Dorado Soapstone of Austin, TX.
Cabinets - locally made, beaded inset doors
Floor and backsplash - Daltile Canaletto Rosso with Dakota Mahogany inserts.
Faucet and soap dispensers - Allora by Delta
Hardware - Atlas Homewares Scroll in black, some the right scroll, most are the left scroll
Dishwasher - Whirlpool that I got a year ago to replace my worn out one. Its quiet, works great, and I saw no need to change it.
Refrigerator - Samsung 26 Cu Ft.
Vent - ModernAire
Range - Electrolux 30 inch slide-in electric with two ovens (Getting gas to our house would have been prohibitively expensive.)
Lazy Susan - Hafele LeMans Champagne blind corner pullout
Mixer Stand - Rev-a-Shelf
Trash Pullout - Hafele
Lighting: Recessed - Cree LR6 LEDs. Over the sink - The Piedmont in antique black from Schoolhouse Electric. Over the table - Hinkley Juliette 3 Light Mini Chandelier in Olde Black. Undercounter lights - Xenon, I dont know what brand
Paint - All Behr colors. Some of them we did tweak a bit.
Green cabinets - We started with Mint Fizz, but there was not enough contrast, so we darkened it.
Cream cabinets, banquette, and all baseboards, trim, doors - China Cup.
Sink end of the room - Coronado Dunes
Banquette end of the room - Peach Bud
Ceiling - Muffin Mix.

The ceramic tile always looks a bit orange in the pictures when it is actually a terracotta color.

Below is a link to these and more pictures if anyone is interested.


001 - Before

002 - Before


003 - After

014 - After

Microwave, Pantry, Coffee Bar

004 - Microwave


011 - Banquette

016 - Mixer Stand

018 - Baskets

020 - Range Hood

025 - Hafele blind corner pullout

027 - Hafele Trash Pullout

028 - Sink

For any potential soapstoners - since the sink doesn't get any treatments and has water and soap in it frequently, it does "gray," which I don't mind at all for the sink.

029 - Sink

And just in case someone wants to see this island again, although I do have other areas of counter that are just as beautiful, I couldn't resist showing it again -

030 - Just in case you wanted to see the island again

Thanks for putting up with all these pictures!


clipped on: 07.19.2010 at 12:38 am    last updated on: 07.19.2010 at 12:38 am

RE: List of stuff in kitchens? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: buehl on 07.18.2008 at 12:13 am in Kitchens Forum

To indirectly answer your question, here's the storage planning "guide" I came up should help you figure out what you want to store in the kitchen and where.

Once you've finalized your basic design, it's time to analyze your storage needs in each zone. The results of that analysis will drive the size/configuration of your cabinets and drawers. (The following is a general write-up I've come up with...)

  1. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored, basement, dining room, etc.
  2. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone.
  3. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.)
    The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process...

  4. If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So...
    • Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone.
    • Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items.

    If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone.

    • Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone.
    • Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets).
    • Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers)
    • Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary.

You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen!

This not only helps you to "see" how things will fit, but it also will help when you move back into the won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy "map" for everyone to help find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door!

Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located!

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

  • Storage--pantry & refrigerator--tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags
  • Preparation--sink & trash--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels
  • Cooking--cooktop/range & MW--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels
  • Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels
  • Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware
  • Eating--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware
  • Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords
  • Message Center--phones, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard

Less Common Zones:

  • Tea/Coffee Bar--coffeemaker--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot
  • Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks

Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc.

Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks

Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer

NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc.


clipped on: 06.05.2010 at 01:08 am    last updated on: 06.05.2010 at 01:08 am

RE: Tray Divider Over Fridge (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: buehl on 03.19.2010 at 02:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

GW Tip...Instead of putting the trays & tray dividers on the floor of the cabinet and a shelf above, put the trays & tray dividers on the shelf and the have the smaller/shorter place for platters, etc. beneath sitting on the cabinet floor.

In most cases (especially if your trays are over ovens), you can reach the bottom of things on a shelf a few inches up. For trays, cooking racks, cookie sheets, etc., you only need to get to the lower corner and pull, you don't need to reach the top of the item to remove.

This setup allows you to be able to access not only the items in the tray dividers w/o a stool, but also the platters, etc.

Like this:


clipped on: 05.31.2010 at 12:23 am    last updated on: 05.31.2010 at 12:24 am

Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

posted by: buehl on 04.14.2008 at 02:56 am in Kitchens Forum

First off, I want to give a big thank-you to StoneGirl, Kevin, Joshua, Mimi, and others (past and current) on this forum who have given us many words of wisdom concerning stone countertops.

I've tried to compile everything I saved over the past 8 months that I've been on this Forum. Most of it was taken from a write-up by StoneGirl (Natural stone primer/granite 101); other threads and sources were used as well.

So...if the experts could review the information I've compiled below and send me comments (here or via email), I will talk to StarPooh about getting this on the FAQ.

Stone Information, Advice, and Checklists:

In an industry that has no set standards, there are many unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. There are also a number of people with odd agendas trying to spread ill rumors about natural stone and propagate some very confusing and contradictory information. This is my small attempt at shedding a little light on the subject.

Slab Selection:

On the selection of the actual stone slabs - When you go to the slab yard to choose slabs for your kitchen, there are a few things you need to take note of:

  • Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued, or brushed, should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches, or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man-made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab when looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab.

    Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process.

  • Mesh backing: Some slabs have a mesh backing. This was done at the plant where the slabs were finished. This backing adds support to brittle materials or materials with excessive veining or fissures. A number of exotic stones will have this. This does not necessarily make the material one of inferior quality, though. Quite often, these slabs will require special care in fabrication and transport, so be prepared for the fabricator to charge accordingly. If you are unsure about the slabs, ask your fabricator what his opinion of the material is.
  • Cracks and fissures: Yes - some slabs might have them. One could have quite the discussion on whether that line on the slab could be one or the other, so I'll try to explain it a little.

    • Fissures are naturally occurring features in stone. They will appear as little lines in the surface of the slabs (very visible in a material like Verde Peacock) and could even be of a different color than the majority of the stone (think of those crazed white lines sometimes appearing in Antique Brown). Sometimes they could be fused like in Antique Brown and other times they could be open, as is the case in the Verde Peacock example. They could often also go right through the body of the slab like in Crema Marfil, for instance. If you look at the light reflection across a fissure, you will never see a break - i.e., there will be no change in the plane on either side of a fissure.
    • A crack on the other hand is a problem... If you look at the slab at an oblique angle in the light, you will note the reflection of the shine on the surface of the stone. A crack will appear as a definite line through the reflection and the reflection will have a different appearance on either side of the line - there will be a break in the plane. Reject slabs like this. One could still work around fissures. Cracks are a whole other can of worms.
    • Resined slabs: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. You should not be able to see just by looking at the surface of a slab whether it was resined or not. If you look at the rough sides of the slab, though, you will see some drippy shiny marks, almost like varnish drips. This should be the only indication that the slab is resined. There should never be a film or layer on the face of the stone. With extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer.
    • Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed do not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but it is still resined to eliminate a flaking issue.

Tests (especially for Absolute Black) (using a sample of YOUR slab):

  • To verify you have true AB and not dyed: Clean with denatured alcohol and rub marble polishing powder on the face. (Get denatured alcohol at Home Depot in the paint department)
  • Lemon Juice or better yet some Muratic Acid: will quickly show if the stone has alot of calcium content and will end up getting etched. This is usually chinese stone, not indian.
  • Acetone: The Dying usually is done on the same chinese stone. like the others said, acetone on a rag will reveal any dye that has been applied
  • Chips: Using something very hard & metalhit the granite sharply & hard on edges to see if it chips, breaks, or cracks


  • Before the templaters get there...
    • Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.
    • Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.
    • Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in.
    • Check how close they should come to a stove and make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter.
    • Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.
    • Make sure have your garbage disposal air switch on hand or know the diameter

  • If you are not putting in a backsplash, tell them
  • Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.
  • Seam Placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

    Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality, and their placementand still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!

  • Factors determining seam placement:
    • The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)
    • Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available
    • Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will influence seam placement here alone.
    • Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some do not. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.
    • Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -
    • Install-ability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again, 1,001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

    You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

    With modern glues and seaming methods, a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam is done well, there is - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

    Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.

  • Generally, it is not a good idea to seam over a DW because there's no support for the granite, and anything heavy placed at or near the seam would stress the stone, possibly breaking it.
  • Rodding is another issue where a tremendous amount of mis-information and scary stories exist: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece
  • Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e., eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.
    Edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world. Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.


  • Seams:
    One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum [StoneGirl]

    • A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:
      • It should be flat. According to the Marble Institute of America (MIA) a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.
      • It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)
      • The color on either side of the seam should match as closely as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.
      • Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases, the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.
      • The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge, you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.
      • The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)
      • The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as closely as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try to make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it

  • Checklist:
    • Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.
      • Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.
      • Make sure that the seams are not obvious.
      • Make sure the seams are butted tight
      • Make sure that there are no scratches, pits, or cracks

    • If sealing is necessary (not all granites need to be sealed):
      • Make sure that the granite has been sealed
      • If more than one application of sealer was applied, ask how long they waited between applications
      • Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.

    • Make sure the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
    • Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.
    • Check for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges
    • Check for chips. These can be filled.
    • Make sure the top drawers open & close
    • Make sure that you can open & close your dishwasher
    • Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter
    • Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances
    • Check the edge all around, a good edge should have the following characteristics:
      • Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull, or waxy.
      • The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.
      • The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.
      • A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.
      • A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly, and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanical fabrication (i.e., CNC machines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.

    • Run your hands around the entire laminated edge of yor counters to make sure they are smooth
    • Check surrounding walls & cabinets for damage

Miscellaneous Information:

  • More than all the above and below, though, is to be present for both the templating as well as having the templates placed on your slabs at the fabricator's
    If you canot be there, then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam
  • Find a fabricator who is a member of the SFA
  • When they polish your stone for you don't let them wax it. It will look terrible in 2 months when the wax wears off.
  • Don't use the Magic Eraser on granite--especially AB
  • Any slab with more fill (resin) than stone is certainly a no-no!!
  • When you do check for scratches, have overhead lighting shining down so scratches are easier to see
  • Don't let them do cutouts in place (granite dust becomes a major issue)
  • Granite dust can be a problem...some have heard of SS appliances & hoods damaged by the dust, others have heard of drawer glides being ruined by the dust
  • If you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process.
  • Suggested Prep for Installation:
    • Remove any drawers and pullouts beneath any sections that will be cut or drilled onsite, e.g., sink cutouts and/or faucet, soap dispenser, air gap, instant hot etc. holes, cooktop cutouts.
    • Then just cover the glides themselves with a few layers of blue painter's tape (or some combo of plastic wrap and tape)
    • If you make sure to cover the top of the glides and attach some of the tape to the cab wall as well (to form sort of a seal)and cover the rest of the glides completely with tape, you should be fine.
    • Usually the fabricators will have someone holding a vacuum hose right at the spot where they are drilling or cutting, so very little granite dust should be landing on the glides. What little dust escapes the vacuum will be blocked by the layer(s) of tape.
    • When done w/installation, remove the tape and use a DustBuster (or similar) on all the cabinets and glides

  • Countertop Support:
    • If your granite is 2 cm thick, then there can be no more then 6" of of unsupported span with a 5/8" subtop
    • If your granite is 3 cm thick, then there can be no more then 10" of unsupported span - no subtop required
    • If you need support, the to determine your corbel dimensions:
    • Thickness of Stone - Dimension of Unsupported Span = Corbel Dimensino
    • i.e., an 18" total overhang in 2 cm would require a 12" corbe; the same overhang in 3 cm would require an 8" corbel


clipped on: 05.29.2010 at 12:05 am    last updated on: 05.29.2010 at 12:05 am

RE: Order of decisions (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: kaismom on 05.28.2010 at 12:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

There are two different phases of construction:
Before dry wall and after dry wall.

Before dry wall, you need to be absolutely certain of HVAC (heating ventilating and air conditioning) locations and upgrades. If you need to move your vent, this is the time.

Electrical rough in locations, including ceiling light locations. If you are doing floor electrical placement ie for lights for sofa, you need to do this now also since the electrician is there. We are putting plates on the floor for the sofas in our LR.

Plumbing rough in locations, including DW, ice maker for the freezer, and other appliances that need water.
Speaker wires, if you are getting them.
Computer, phone jacks, cable jack locations (my desk area in the kitchen has phone, computer jack, cable jack, which we are keeping)
I am having CAT6 jack placed on my island, for example, so the kids can do homework on the island. We have the entire house networked so one more jack in the house is nothing. We do not use wireless, FWIWm because it is notieably slower....

They the dry wall goes on.
Then you paint. You need to have the paint colors picked for all walls, including accent walls if you are painting.
Many people finish/tile the floor before the cabinets. YMMV depending on who you talk to.
You need to have the flooring picked so they can decide how to procede.
Then the cabinets go up.
Then the countrop top.
appliances and sinks.

Electrical/plumbing finish work, ie install faucet, light fixtures, electrical outlets (this is variable) DW.

Back splash and trim.

Touch up paint, if needed.
One more coat of floor finish, if needed.

Good luck. This is only our 4th major remodel in this house! You learn alot over the years.


clipped on: 05.28.2010 at 01:34 pm    last updated on: 05.28.2010 at 01:48 pm

Thank you for the outdoor sink idea . . . .

posted by: rjr220 on 05.03.2010 at 08:57 am in Kitchens Forum

When I started lurking, someone posted a kitchen -- I believe it was a DIY, oak mission, maybe a foursquare?? And I remember their old kitchen sink with a frame out on the deck.

If you are still on the forum, thank you for including that picture. I told my carpenter that I wanted my old sink outside -- it has been marvelous. True, I keep reaching for the garbage disposal switch, and I only have cold water (I fill a basin with hot water from inside), but I love this baby. After the kitchen is done it's being moved to an hidden area to be used as a garden sink. My carpenter found 2 old sawhorses that fit the sink perfectly.


Please excuse the garden and yard. I've somehow fallen behind in yard work . . . . wonder why.


temp sink
clipped on: 05.03.2010 at 08:13 pm    last updated on: 05.03.2010 at 08:13 pm

lighting (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: jamaraz on 05.03.2010 at 09:29 am in Kitchens Forum

It's actually handmade ceramic tiles. It's Walker Zanger from the Ceramica Allehambra line. I forgot to put the undercabinet lighting on in the picture. Unfortunately, with the grout color I think the lighting makes the backsplash look more washed out looking with the brighter light.


more info about the backsplash
clipped on: 05.03.2010 at 12:39 pm    last updated on: 05.03.2010 at 12:39 pm

I don't love my backsplash

posted by: jamaraz on 05.02.2010 at 11:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi. I waited a long time to get a backsplash. There was nothing I loved and when I stumbled upon my backsplash, I was thrilled and ended up paying double my original budget. I didn't care because I found something interesting that would give my kitchen a focal point (I kept my original cabinets). The backsplash looked great before it was grouted but now that it is complete, it just looks blah. I don't know if I chose the wrong grout but the tiles just fade into the background in my kitchen. I had wanted to keep the backsplash relatively simple but now I think it just looks boring.

Is there anything I can do to spice it up a bit? I spent too much money on the backsplash and can't just rip it out and start over again. Any help would be appreciated.




backsplash idea
clipped on: 05.03.2010 at 12:38 pm    last updated on: 05.03.2010 at 12:38 pm

RE: Prep sink in a small kitchen? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: circuspeanut on 04.29.2010 at 08:30 am in Kitchens Forum

hi jen,

Entirely different field, but I've done the postdoc grind and know how important it is to have a good solid distraction! ;-)

I also have a small kitchen (10x11) and we decided on a prep sink for our cooking habits (he preps, I cook, and we bottleneck at one sink). LOVE it, great decision. Never regretted it.

Re. $$: we used a 15" round deep enamel sink I scored at Habitat for Humanity for all of $12. (Appropriately for this thread, it's from a defunct hospital.) Here in Portland ME, the Restore has at least 20 enamel and stainless sinks at any given moment, in all sizes, so definitely check out the Restores in your area (or zip up here to Portland!).

Another tip: my dad made us a cherry cover for the sink, so if we're not using it we lose no counter space. Not the best pic of the sink, but you can see the cover sitting on the counter behind it:

Image and video hosting by TinyPic


prep sink in a small kitchen
clipped on: 04.29.2010 at 11:05 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2010 at 11:06 pm

Quirky appliance garage and spice pullout (pics)

posted by: dvdre on 04.01.2010 at 06:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am still not a huge fan of that appliance garage and pillar, but it is growing on me. Now that it is finished, I do appreciate that it hides away three appliances.

View into the kitchen, appliance garage at end of counter:

Front-on view of the appliance garage:

Appliance garage open. Note that the granite countertop notches into the garage, without a seam:

Front view of the spice rack pullout, fit into a small space next to dishwasher:

The spice rack pulled out. Great storage space in a small niche:

FYI, countertop is Typhoon Bordeaux.


clipped on: 04.01.2010 at 08:37 pm    last updated on: 04.01.2010 at 08:37 pm

RE: How to disable the underline thingy (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: buehl on 03.28.2010 at 03:18 am in Kitchens Forum

Finally! The "restricted sites" directions from the Wiki article I linked above worked!

(Note: The "hosts" suggestion did not work for me.)

Restricting sites:

Internet Explorer 8:

  1. From the menu bar, select:

    Tools --> Internet Options --> Security Tab

  2. Click "Restricted sites" in the "zone" box
  3. A "Sites" button will appear for "Restricted sites", click it
  4. In the box that says "Add this website to the zone:", type:

  5. Now, click the "Add" button
  6. Next, in the box that says "Add this website to the zone:", type:

  7. Click the "Add" button
  8. Click the "Close" button to exit Restriced sites "Sites" dialog box
  9. Click the OK button to exit "Tools"/"Internet Options" and save your changes


clipped on: 03.28.2010 at 12:11 pm    last updated on: 03.28.2010 at 12:11 pm

RE: How to disable the underline thingy (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: buehl on 03.28.2010 at 01:03 am in Kitchens Forum

I went to the "opt out" page, clicked on the "disable" link and I no longer see the double-underlined in-line links.

Link to "opt out":

Are others finding it doesn't work? If so, did you notice the following:

Deactivation requires the use of cookie technology. Please note that if you should delete or refresh your cookies the service will be re-activated automatically.

So, do you have "Cookies" turned on?

If so, do you automatically delete cookies when you close your browser?

If you don't have cookies turned on or you automatically delete cookies when closing your browser, you will not be able to permanently get rid of the in-line links.

To turn on Cookies & not delete them on exit:

Firefox 3.6:

  1. From the menu bar, select:

    Tools --> Options --> Privacy Tab

  2. Check the box labeled "Accept cookies from sites"
  3. I recommend you uncheck the box "Accept third-party cookies"
  4. From the "Keep until" drop down menu, select "they expire"
  5. Click the OK button to exit Tools and save your changes

Internet Explorer 8:

  1. From the menu bar, select:

    Tools --> Internet Options --> Privacy Tab

  2. Click the "Advanced" button
  3. Check the "Override automatic cookie handling" box
  4. Click the "Accept" radio button under "First-party Cookies"
  5. Click the "Prompt" button under "Third-party Cookies"
  6. Check the "Always allow session cookies" box at the bottom
  7. Click the OK button to exit the "Advanced" dialog box
  8. Now, click the "General" tab
  9. Under "Browsing History", be sure the box "Delete browsing history on exit" is unchecked; if it's checked, uncheck it
  10. Click the OK button to exit Tools and save your changes

Note: If you are using Firefox, the best way to eliminate the in-line links and all advertising on pages is to download and install the "Adblock Plus" add-on.

Adblock Plus Add-on for Firefox: Adblock Plus

(Other add-ons: Add-ons for Firefox)

Let me know if this does not help...


clipped on: 03.28.2010 at 04:17 am    last updated on: 03.28.2010 at 04:17 am

RE: Choosing cabinet color - all over the place (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: mileaday on 03.16.2010 at 12:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

Ok I'll try this once again. The picture showed up in the preview but not in the message -??

Green kitchen


clipped on: 03.17.2010 at 12:17 am    last updated on: 03.17.2010 at 12:17 am

RE: Granite countertop meeting the wall...wall not straight (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: azstoneconsulting on 03.16.2010 at 05:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

Jesus Mary & Joseph!!!!

Holy Shnykies!!! Does this guy have half a brain or what?

OF Frickin COURSE a bridge saw is going to cut in straight line...

Scribing is what we PROFESSIONALS use a 4" grinder for.... sounds
like you are doing business with "Putz & Son Granite *& Marble" or
maybe more like "QUANTITY Stone".... this guy CAN'T HAVE been doing Fabricating
very long - I mean - C'MON MAN!!! GET A CLUE!!!!

Maybe he needs to come to my school so I can teach him how to do things right....

TO me - your fabricator sounds more like a whinner-baby... like I said
before - REAL Fabricators can do the "scribe: to an "S" wall - sure it's
not the most fun thing to do, but with a good template and experience -
this can be done all day long and twice on Sundays.......

sorry for going off - but this guy masquerading as a "fabricator" slays me!



clipped on: 03.16.2010 at 11:51 pm    last updated on: 03.16.2010 at 11:51 pm

RE: Such thing as a good blind-corner cabinet? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: buehl on 06.28.2008 at 11:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

We turned the corner cabinet around and made it 27" for the 3" "filler" that would have been needed in the corner to open/close drawers. It turns out we needed 4"...if I'd known that I would have made it 28"!

The "difficulty" in doing this is that you need to have a toekick on the other cabinets whose backs are on the same cabinet run. Pic:

Pet Station Description, 3 of 4

Pet Station Description, 4 of 4


clipped on: 03.09.2010 at 02:12 pm    last updated on: 03.09.2010 at 02:12 pm

RE: Help choosing granite with white appliances (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: mondragon on 03.01.2010 at 08:14 am in Kitchens Forum

I know I'm in the minority on this, but it would drive me CRAZY to work in so colorless a space. I know that "spa beige" is popular but I think it's going to be horribly dated in the not-to-distant future.

I think a red dragon would look amazing with those cabinets.

I am a BIG fan of green granites. I have Iguana green, it's got a lot of movement and enough white that it picks up on the white appliances. In my bathroom I have a "green fashion" (it's got a lot of different names, including "tropical fashion" and "gaugin") with a dark vanity:

There's a lot of variety with what I find searching on "acacia"; one of them -
doesn't have a lot of green but the green in it is really lovely; I don't see it in your kitchen.

Interestingly, "midnight acacia" looks like what I have in m kitchen.


clipped on: 03.02.2010 at 12:45 pm    last updated on: 03.02.2010 at 12:46 pm

RE: Need advice about countertop choices (Follow-Up #59)

posted by: mondragon on 02.17.2010 at 09:07 am in Kitchens Forum

It's funny to see this exact same discussion going on since 2006 when I redid my kitchen. The statement that all granite requires sealing is false.

My mother said (and still does) "you just can't have anything nice". You know the stereotype of men not being too concerned about everything being cleaned up right away, and making huge messes when cooking that may take a day or two to clean up from? Spilled liquids, oils, vinegars, etc left overnight? Cleaning with whatever cleaner is in front, under the sink? That's us, but there are *two* of us that way.

So the ability to withstand that sort of treatment and still look great when we scrub everything down was requirement #1. I got a large number of samples, unsealed, and brought them home and abused them. Oil, wine, vinegar, lemon slices, tomato sauce. Left overnight. Left a few days.

Some of the very light stones soaked things up like a sponge. Some took a few days to get a soaked-in stain. And one that we liked was like glass. Nothing phased it. And it was a pretty unique pattern that we both liked, having that "natural stone" feeling that we both loved.

It's four years later, innumerable multicourse dinners for 10 later, high-temperature stirfries, 8 types of vinegars, 5 types of oils, bottles left on the counter over night. Sangria or fresh lemonade in the summer so citrus fruit remnants pile up.

That's a really long way of saying that there are some stones you can not seal, can abuse, can clean with whatever, can use green scratchy pads on, and still clean up to look as good as the day they were installed.

It's pretty, too:

It's called "iguana green", it's from All-granite in NJ, it was pricey but compared to the subject cost of living with a beatup countertop that we hate on a daily basis it made sense. And except for there being a backsplash (finally!) and trim around the window, it looks exactly the same.


iguana green granite
clipped on: 03.02.2010 at 12:43 pm    last updated on: 03.02.2010 at 12:45 pm

Need help finding this glass tile, or something similar

posted by: stretchad on 01.17.2010 at 12:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

Starting to think about a backsplash and some google searching led me to this photo

The aspects I like of this tile are the length and height of the glass tile bars. Not necessarily the color. In looking around online for glass tile mosaics that have this similar dimension and arrangement, I am not finding anything!
I keep coming across 1 x 6 brick pattern or 1x2 brick pattern. Or, I see random brick pattern.

Anyone have any ideas where I could look or if you've seen such a thing??


glass backsplash tiles
clipped on: 02.12.2010 at 01:08 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2010 at 01:09 pm