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RE: Show me the (shower) door! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: treasuretheday on 03.10.2012 at 04:19 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Thanks, Springroz! I'm happy to share the source, U.S. Horizon. My shower door guy had never seen this handle before and now he's ordered one to put on display in his showroom.

Here is a link that might be useful: U.S. Horizon ergonomic handle

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.16.2012 at 05:54 pm    last updated on: 03.16.2012 at 05:54 pm

Water Softener and Possible RO unit

posted by: kwarner16 on 01.21.2012 at 01:16 pm in Plumbing Forum

Hi everyone, I am new to this all though I have tried to read as much as I can I am still in need of some expert advice. We are looking to buy a water softener we are trying to decide between the Fleck 9100 SXT Twin Tank to be purchased online and buying a local Watts PWSYS-WH-SOFT-PRO SE-30K. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
This what we know about our water.
We on on a well 27 G.P.G. T.D.S. 450 PH 7.5
We will have a 2 BA home with 2 adults.
Thanks for the help.
Kathy

NOTES:

See full discussion
clipped on: 02.15.2012 at 01:02 pm    last updated on: 02.15.2012 at 01:02 pm

RE: Where do you store your everyday plates, bowls & cups? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: pps7 on 11.12.2011 at 04:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

In the island across from the dw. We have a 48" wide and 12" deep cabinet there.

I don't have a great picture of this cabinet but this should give you an idea:

Location of sink and dw:

Photobucket

Cabinet that stores everyday stuff:
Photobucket

We also put some stuff on our open shelves:

Photobucket

NOTES:

For great wall cabinet and cabinets below.
clipped on: 11.12.2011 at 09:29 pm    last updated on: 11.12.2011 at 09:29 pm

Tile Masters

posted by: sdionnemoore on 10.25.2011 at 06:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

There was a Website where one could find a person who was certified to use the Schluter system to tile. Steve Paul was located in Chambersburg, PA, and did a wonderful job on our two all-tile showers. I'm getting ready to do backsplash, and though I have his name and address, I don't have his email address. One, does anyone know the URL for the forum where these tile-people hang out (I thought I got it here) and/or 2) anyone know his email addie?

NOTES:

It's the John Bridges Tile Forum
clipped on: 11.23.2011 at 12:30 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2011 at 12:30 pm

RE: DIY bathroom renovation cost actuals (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: ntruro on 10.23.2011 at 10:24 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Sorry for the delay in re-establishing the links.

Here are the cost sheets

Shared bath cost actuals pg1
Shared bath cost actuals pg2

And here are some photos of completed bathroom
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NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.29.2011 at 11:41 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2011 at 11:41 pm

RE: Quote: 'your sink could fall off' (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: Angie_DIY on 10.08.2011 at 01:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

If you fill that sink completely with water, the water would weigh about 200 lbs. I don't think it is acceptable that your installer would install it such that you cannot use it the way you wish.

The pros above have given you good info. One school of thought on this board is to use a product called the Sink Setter to support the sink, which looks great, but must be installed before the countertops are. There is a commercial product that does what LWO suggests, namely, provide the needed support after the installation. The link is provided below.

No doubt Kevin will be along momentarily to inform me that I am not qualified to give this advice.

Here is a link that might be useful: post-facto sink support

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.08.2011 at 04:56 pm    last updated on: 10.08.2011 at 04:56 pm

buttermilk biscuit recipe: thank you!!!

posted by: lawjedi on 09.20.2011 at 08:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

Not too long ago someone posted their recipe for buttermilk biscuits and I copied it down. Unfortunately I forgot to write down WHO is was from...

I made them tonight - breakfast for dinner.... and was transported back in time. They were exactly like my Nana's biscuits for her biscuits and gravy.

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!

Here is the recipe I used.... looks complicated, but really it was very easy and the biscuits came together very quickly.

Buttermilk biscuits ( adapted from Cook's Illustrated)
Place 2 c AP flour 
1 Tbsp. baking powder 
1 tsp. salt 
1/4 tsp baking soda
pulse till it is blended...few seconds.
Using a large hole grater , grate 5 Tbsp of frozen salted butter on top of the flour. Alternatively cut the butter into 1/4 inch dice and freeze on a plate. Pulse only till it is mixed...few seconds. Better to have tiny pieces of butter . Now pour this into a chilled bowl and add about 1 c very cold buttermilk. Toss lightly till every bit of flour is good and wet. Don't over mix just toss lightly. It may take even more. More is better than not enough. Gently turn the dough out on a well floured countertop. I use my soapstone . Turn your convection bake to 500. Have a flat shiny cookie sheet ready, and spray with Pam. Lightly pat the dough with floured hands till it is 1/2 to 3/4 " thick. Using a well-floured biscuit cutter press firmly straight down to cut the biscuits. DONOT twist the cutter and they won't rise. Reflour before each cut. Take the scraps and push them lightly up next to the other scraps and cut more. Donot overlap them. Smoosh them together from the sides...this is a scientific term:) Place the biscuits on the cookie sheet so they are just touching. Bake at 500 for 12-15 min in the top 1/3 of the oven till nicely golden brown.

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clipped on: 09.21.2011 at 11:40 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2011 at 11:40 pm

RE: OT re: gadgets..good thermometer for yogurt-making? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: lalitha on 09.20.2011 at 03:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

I wanted to chime in on this thread. I make yogurt regularly and have been for several years. Atleast 2-3 times a week. And I do not use a thermometer. I have also studied the dairy science of making yogurt professionally and despite all the math, it boils down to providing a comfortable pasturized medium for the bacteria to grow.

Here is the easy recipe if you will that I wrote up for some other friends..

I usually make 1/4 gallon. But it really does not matter as you just need a longer time to "set" yogurt if you use more milk.

Use ultra-pasterized organic milk (I usually pick up Horizon's or Costco or Stermicks or whatever is available on sale that week at my store). Heat the milk. If heating on stove top use a stainless steel pot with thick bottom. You can also heat in a microwave. If you are heating on stove top, use low heat and stir frequently to prevent milk from scorching and prevent the skin from forming. With a microwave, you need to eyeball it until you figure out the math for your microwave (how much milk in what casserole for how many minutes). The milk is heated enough when you can see steam arising steadily. If you put a drop of milk on your wrist, it should feel hot. Now take remove the pot from heat and let cool. You are ready to add the yogurt culture when the milk feels lukewarm (give the milk a good stir and do the wrist test again). Don't worry about specific temperature, as long as it feels luke warm and tepid, the yogurt will set. Add the culture. For the first time you can use a commmercial culture like Yogourmet (available at wholefoods for me). Use just 1 packet and follow instructions to mix the powder in a bit of milk and pour it into the pot. For subsequent times, you can save a few tbsps of the made yogurt and use it as culture for the next times. My current culture is going strong for 3 years. Mix the culture throughly and put the lid back on the pot. Keep it in a reasonably warm place. If you warmed the milk in the microwave, you can just mix the culture and leave it in there. If you live in a cooler climate, you can leave it in the oven with the ligh on. Or just cover the pot with some dish towels. Do not move/ disturb the pot too much. The yogurt will set. How long --> depends on ambient temperature (cool --> longer, warm --> sooner). Check after 3-4 hrs to see if the yogurt is set. Tilt the pot slightly to see if is liquid still or solid. You will often see a small layer of whey on top when it is set. You can put it in the fridge when it is set to stop the bacteria growth.

Some Q&A:

Yogurt is a bit sour
Home made yogurt is not sweetened and can be a bit more sour. It will also be more sour if the milk was too warm or the place you set it is too warm (the oven or the room in summers). Just try setting it with slightly cooler milk and move it to the fridge sooner (good tip for warm summer)

Yogurt takes too long to set
Try with warmer milk and a more insulated area. My friend in cold canadian north uses a yogurt cosy (adapted from a tea cosy)she made to give the milk a nice ambient temperature.

Why ultra pasturized organic milk
Ultra pasturized basically means that the milk has been super heated to get rid of most bacteria (which explains the long shelf life of milk here). This actually makes it easier for home yogurt making as basically all you need to do is to get the milk to ambient temperature to introduce your yogurt culture/ bacteria. I usually heat it a bit more as my milk container has usually been opened and used for a couple of days.
Organic is just my choice for my family. Milk and dairy products is one of the things I personally believe that it is a better choice to use organic.

I NEED to know the science. This feels too "go with the flow"
You asked for it. The science in yogurt making is simply to pasturize milk to kill any present microorganisms/ bacteria and then re-introduce the preferred bacteria culture that makes yogurt. When using a thermometer, heating milk to between 165 and 180 degrees Farenheit for a few minutes is basically same as ultra pasturization. This also denatures milk proteins so that they all set together as opposed to forming lumpy curds. Then the milk is cooled to 110 degrees Farenheit which is the best ambient temperature to incubate the usual yougurt bacteria (lactobacillus acidophillus, bulgaris) etc. The fermentation occurs over a period of 4-7 hrs.

I want thicker yogurt
Many store brands use gelatin. I don't like it as I feel it is too goopy. You can instead mix non-fat dry milk in the milk and mix it throughly (no lumps) before heating. You can start with 1/3 cup and then experiment to see how thick you want the yogurt. Also using whole milk will make thicker yogurt. Basically more solids in the milk (either fat or the solid non-fat), thicker the yogurt. Thicker yogurt will take slightly longer to set. Straining is another way to thicker after the yogurt is set. Nice but too much work IMHO.

Flavored yogurt
You can add pureed fruits to the mixture or jam even. I prefer to just add fresh fruit and other things like nuts, agave syrup or honey to dress the yogurt later. I usually find that the set of the yogurt sometimes gets wonky if you corrupt the milk before the culture is added.

Can I use cute single serving jars
This makes it a bit tricky to make sure the culture is evenly distributed and the ambient temperature is maintained for the fermentation. Results are sometimes not consistent. Suggest you try one of the yogurt makers in the market which already has the glass single serving jars. Try adding culture individually to each jar (same amount) to get consistent setting.

Microwave Method please
My friend simply boils milk in microwave oven till 180 to 185F (15.5mins for her corelle container in our microwave)wait it cools down to 110F to 120F. Just keep the warm innoculated milk in the oven that was pre-heated to 170 and SWITCHED OFF.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.07.2012 at 10:26 am    last updated on: 08.07.2012 at 10:27 am

RE: Sealing Grout - Included in Price or Additional Charge? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bill_vincent on 09.19.2011 at 02:17 pm in Bathrooms Forum

What I'm about to say puts me in the minority of tile pros, but I'll say it anyway. As far as I'm coincerned, sealing grout is the biggest scam this industry has going. Even sealed grout, sooner or later will show wear paths in high traffic areas. It will still stain from fine particulates. And it will still darken somewhat with age. The only thing sealer does (and that's with the good quality sealers) is put off the inevitable a bit. What goes alot further toward not having these problems (or atleast not seeing them) is using medium to dark grouts in high traffic areas, or places that might tend to get dirty or stained easily.

Again, I'm in the minority, but that's my two cents. My grandfather was a tile contractor, as was my father, my uncle, and my sister, and of course most of you know I am, as well. My father had 2 sisters (as well as his brother), and I've got 4 sisters and a brother, not to mention the assorted cousins, and NOT ONE of us has EVER sealed a single bit of grout (other than that in marble tile or slate, where the stone got sealed) in any one of our homes thru the years.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.22.2011 at 12:01 am    last updated on: 09.22.2011 at 12:01 am

RE: Ingenious lid storage idea (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: abfabamy on 09.11.2011 at 09:49 am in Kitchens Forum

I love that idea, planning on trying to use it somewhere. In my old house I did something different.

We had a closet type pantry and on the back of the door I hung an inexpensive shoe rack like the one below. The lid handles fit down between the curved shoe holders. The lids with "U" shaped handles fit over the curved holders. It worked very well, too.
Photobucket

NOTES:

Just as clever!
clipped on: 09.12.2011 at 06:02 pm    last updated on: 09.12.2011 at 06:02 pm

Ingenious lid storage idea

posted by: melaska on 09.11.2011 at 07:47 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi everyone...saw this on Houzz from member hennef7 & wanted to share. You could probably use this idea inside a cabinet, too.

Lid storage by hennef7 on Houzz

I'll link the thread below...this picture was added as a comment on the thread.

Here is a link that might be useful: Customizable dish storage thread on Houzz

NOTES:

Very Clever!
clipped on: 09.12.2011 at 06:01 pm    last updated on: 09.12.2011 at 06:02 pm

RE: Kerdi Drain Theory (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: bill_vincent on 08.22.2011 at 06:14 pm in Bathrooms Forum

For me, it has nothing to do with cost. Rather it's about something called "point load". meaning if you drop something, or even push in on the foam with a toe, you'll see it makes a dent. Now obviously, that stiffens greatly when you apply tile and thinset. But I'm still nervous about it. Additionally, I'd much rather mud the pan, anyway, because even if your shower's the right size for a pan to fit, if your drain's even slightly off center, you have two choices-- either toss the foam pan, or cut it up and fill in the holes with mud. I'd just rather do the whole thing in mud and call it good. Then there's no problems. In fact, tomorrow, I'm doing a kerdi locker room shower. I wonder if they might make a foam pan for a 10'x6' shower, with a drain offset by 18"?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.21.2011 at 11:59 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2011 at 11:59 pm

RE: Kerdi Drain Theory (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: mongoct on 08.22.2011 at 02:27 pm in Bathrooms Forum

If you haven't seen this already, here's a thread showing Kerdi over a mud base. The first part of the thread is Kerdi technique. The Kerdi-over-mud base is towards the middle. Skip the end which is distracting drivel.

Mud slopes under Kerdi are done all the time, especially with custom-sized showers. A mud slope is faster and less expensive than trying to fit a square peg into a round hole.

Kerdi Trays are easiest to use when the shower is sized to take the tray from the start. The best use of them I've ever had was when I was doing about a dozen showers in an apartment building. I built the bathrooms around the trays. A dozen prefab trays goes a lot faster than a dozen mud bases. Plus they're a lot easier on the body.

But for one-offs or for custom sized showers, in my opinion mud is preferred.

A tray might also be easier for a novice who is concerned about getting a proper slope.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.21.2011 at 11:58 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2011 at 11:58 pm

RE: Undermount AND drop in a sink at the same time? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: artemis78 on 08.18.2011 at 02:38 am in Kitchens Forum

I think that's just because most people don't use the braces to install. :) (Why, I'm not sure---we decided to do it after my in-laws had a horrible experience getting their old undermount out, and I was surprised to see that our sink actually came with the hardware to do it that way---and yet people mostly don't!) It didn't seem especially difficult (we did it ourselves and just followed the Kohler instructions) so there may be other reasons people don't go that route. I think it's more common for undermount sinks to be epoxied in and rest on the sublayer of the counter, which makes it very difficult to get them out without damaging the counter.

I should also add that we don't have all that much going on under our sink (no disposal, wall-mount faucet, etc.) so possibly people either want to maximize the space in the sink cabinet (not that the braces take much space) or just feel that it won't matter because getting the sink out with all the plumbing and such below would be difficult anyway? (We'd need to take out our P-trap to make room to lower our sink, but that's pretty simple to do---could be more complicated if you had a disposal and additional plumbing connected to it.)

Kohler does sell the hardware we used separately as the Kohler undermount sink kit---it's designed for their sinks, but it has a pretty simple setup so I imagine it would work fine for many other sinks too.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 10.06.2011 at 12:45 am    last updated on: 10.06.2011 at 12:46 am

RE: Unique Things/Items about your Kitchen (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: zelmar on 07.12.2011 at 09:46 am in Kitchens Forum

1. Maybe not unique, but not very common: we put our dw at our small sink instead of the larger one. That way we can have clean up going on at both sinks. I like using the large sink for washing big pots and pans and cookie sheets. Only a small sink is needed for scraping and rinsing dishes when necessary.

2. We closed in the peninsula between the kitchen and table so that it still allows a pass-through but looks hutch-like from the dining side. The glass on 3 sides allows light to move freely between the rooms.

Photobucket Photobucket

Picture on the right: the doors on the right open as a pass through at counter height.

3. A counter height roll out shelf in our tall baking counter. It holds our canisters of flour, sugar and most often used items such as baking soda & powder, vanilla, salt, etc. I find it really convenient to leave it pulled out during baking and then push it back in when all done. b

4. Dh made the lighting fixtures above our 2 sinks (the ones above the main sink are Stickley inspired.) The b&w photos were taken by dd when she was a junior in hs during our first family trip overseas (there are 2 others on the the panel to the right of the fridge.)

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Someday he'll make a removable wrought iron warming shelf above our range.

5. Our counters are schist quarried (and fabricated at the quarry) in W. Mass (Ashfield Stone). It was just a short pick up truck ride from where they were dug out/fabricated to our house. There are 2 subtle drainboards built into the stone on both sides of the main sink (not very visible in the photo above.)

NOTES:

Do a similar hutch-like "thing" for the end 33" of the long run?

Would that also make for no seam in the granite?

clipped on: 07.21.2011 at 03:33 pm    last updated on: 07.21.2011 at 03:34 pm

RE: Naked, legged, or maybe corbelled?? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: remodelfla on 06.22.2011 at 03:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

We used hidden supports from Federal Brace. The hold up our soapstone overhang with no issues. It's where we eat and lean on for every meal.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.11.2011 at 10:19 pm    last updated on: 07.11.2011 at 10:19 pm

RE: 'We all want the best possible kitchen for you' (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: aliris19 on 06.11.2011 at 12:49 am in Kitchens Forum

Well Geesh, guys. Shucks. Those are awfully sweet sentiments yourselves.... thanks.

I usually feel like what I post is massively dopey, too. Just never know I guess. I haven't got the wisdom of *anyone* on this forum -- rhome for instance. Boy does it mean a lot, oh mom of *ten* for goodness sake?! That you take the time amidst what has to be a massively busy day to actually think about a stranger's kitchen layout?! Wild. I so hung on your attention, Rhome, when I was at sea with the layout. I'd come home and wonder whether you'd abandoned me yet or whether you could be imposed upon just long enough more to help me get a workable layout! But it's funny that you thought this had shown up in *short* time. Wow. It's been 6 months since I walked into the KD's with a nearly-complete plan. I've been doing cartwheels of impatience inside at the ridiculous pace. I dunno. Everything's relative I guess.

I've been making a concerted effort to begin to start trying to "give back", but I find I don't know hardly anymore than I started. I know about drawer size now! That's nearly it. A little about ventilation maybe. But the designer stuff and the color stuff -- just not my forte.


Today, I started unpacking spices. Let me look for a sneak-peak photo ...

Photobucket

And here's the start of the unearthing of the pantry's glass jars. The picture also shows the contraption I did wind up putting on the peninsula wall even though the wisdom here seemed pretty much to be 'Don't Do It'! I think the prevailing feeling was along the lines of 'too complicated' and 'why'. But I really like it. I like the space up top for displaying kids' art stuff and I like the special place on the side with space for my post-its and calendars atop the *large* dedicated recycling bin. And I like the special teas-cabinet. It's probably not big enough, but I think I need to stop buying tea; seems to be an obsession akin to buying yarn which I almost need a new house for all by itself. I did hear y-all about its heaviness and responded by narrowing it down. It's just 10.5" depth to the wall I think, making for narrow cabinets inside. But I think it works; I really like it:

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And here you can kind of see the piano-shape of the island/peninsula. It's really hard to get a picture that 'comprehends' the shape. For some reason it's clear-enough in person but static photos somehow don't "get" it -- I don't get why that should be? Still photography is very strange. I try moving the camera high. oblique, flash and not ... it's hard to convey.

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Mtnredux: I'm still rolling all over the place envisioning this "intervention". I've never liked the term in the best of circumstances but this is just pain a hilarious image. Only among the TKO could this even be contemplated. And if I ever wondered whether I'd entered the hallowed realm yet of the TKO, I think this might be a clue. (as in: Duh!)

Breezy -- I'm up for a bet?! What have you left to do? Actually, I should probably post a thread on that maybe? Tell Us What You Have Left. It could be thought of as a public service in terms of helping people to organize their thoughts and tasks. But also, misery loves company so surely it will be useful to know how you stack up in overload against the rest!

But when you say "done by Xmas", I think I am jealous. There was a time I actually thought we'd be done "in three weeks". Really. I can barely comprehend how stupid a thought that was. And I have a hard time imagining being done in less than twice that unit in months worth. Oh dear. When I start to think about it I start to panic .... fiddle dee dee.

I can't wait to finish loading up the pantry and posting back onto the thread where I asked for help with this. There was another, memorable comment there. I had been worrying again I was asking a stupid question, too subjective without any real answer and someone so kindly said something like 'I was wondering the same thing. Do post back when you figure it out so I can get some hints from you' ... something like that. I love what we wound up with. The flours started going in the dedicated massive drawer for them today and it will be a happy day when I get shelf-heights figured out and can post it for real back onto that thread!

NOTES:

Piano Island Top
clipped on: 07.12.2011 at 09:29 am    last updated on: 07.12.2011 at 09:29 am

RE: MDBmom - Can you tell me about your island, please?? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: MDBmom on 06.06.2011 at 11:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Lake_Girl!

Thanks! We are really happy with the way it turned out. We didn't want to expand the island so much that it got in the way of traffic either. We added a trash cabinet to one end and wanted to add a book shelf to the other. Once we started working on the island though, it felt too tight with the stove on that side so we revised it to have the third post. Also there are 5 of us in our family and we wanted everyone to be able to sit at the island so it allows us to store a small counter stool underneath on that side so we can all sit there. The total overall dimensions of the island are 42x76" (including the counter top). The overhang on the short side from the end of cabinet to end of apron is 9 1/2" and on the long side 14". The posts are 3 1/2" square. On the bottom, we used base board and cut it to the size we needed to save some time and money. On the top we used some ogee trim. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. Here are 2 more pics from a different view so you can see the side with the other overhang. Best, Caroline

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NOTES:

Here's the countertop with the Franklin Edge.
clipped on: 07.12.2011 at 09:39 am    last updated on: 07.12.2011 at 09:39 am

RE: The cabinets are in! What do you think about the touch of gre (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: flatwater on 05.26.2011 at 06:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our cabinet maker was really good to work with. He made several useful suggestions including the Sharp Microwave drawer. We were skeptical about the drawer, but decided to go with it.

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The double stacked organizer for silverware should reduce the clutter

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and the pullout for the the spatulas and other big items too...

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not to mention the trays and other flat pans...

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We debated a lot about a trash compactor and in the end decided that we did not want to compact and keep the trash in the house any longer than is necessary. So went with the double garbage bin...

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What do you think?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.26.2011 at 09:20 am    last updated on: 09.26.2011 at 09:20 am

Marble installation OMG!!!!

posted by: sadiebrooklyn on 05.14.2011 at 09:56 am in Kitchens Forum

this flicker album shows the slabs in the stone yard a few pics of the slabs in the fabricator's shop and then after installation. There will be walnut panels (the wood provided by Henrybuilt which match the upper cabinets) installed between the marble ledges wrapping around the outer wall of the passthru.

my favorite feature is the pastry prep area I was able to get right in the kitchen window. I will call this part of the kitchen, "Mommy's breakfast nook"


Calacatta Grey Marble counters and backsplash

NOTES:

Pix of u-kitchen & of Stages sink installed
clipped on: 07.13.2011 at 07:51 am    last updated on: 07.13.2011 at 07:51 am

RE: Can't use granite over frameless base cabs? Really? (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: cloud_swift on 05.05.2011 at 11:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here is a picture where you can see some of the construction of our frameless cabinets.
Photobucket

By the way, I'd heard statements like this before we bought frameless:
Frameless cabinets get their strength once installed (attached) together side-to-side. The inside top rails keep the individual cabinets square and add strength to support the counters. Face-frame cabinets get their strength from the face-frames, corner blocks keep them square - they can stand alone.
So I decided to check ours when they arrived. I leaned against them as hard as I could in various ways and couldn't get one standing alone to rack. Maybe that is true of some of the more lightly built ones, but ours (DeWils) are quite stable before installation.

We have 2 cm granite with 3/4" plywood below. Our cabinets have been in place for over 5 years and are doing fine. Some don't feel that the plywood is necessary and some only do it for 2 cm but not 3 cm. If you have 2 cm with a laminated edge and frameless cabinets, you need something to raise the granite high enough that the laminated edge doesn't hang down low enough to block the top doors and drawers. The plywood does that so if it wasn't there, there would have to be some thing between the granite and the cabinet tops to raise it high enough.

Rodding thin parts of the granite has been mentioned above. It is fairly controversial and I would rather have granite properly supported from below rather than having rodding. We have a range top so the issue doesn't arise there but in front of our sinks. The problem with rodding is that it embeds a steel rod in epoxy in a groove cut in the granite. Steel of course has a different thermal expansion than granite so it can actually stress the granite. It may weaken rather strengthening.

We do have steel inset into the plywood under the island top to support the 15" seating overhang without corbels or legs, but it isn't epoxied or attached to the granite.
Photobucket
So our overhang can look like this:
island back left

NOTES:

Cool idea about building steel into plywood top to support overhang.

Also interesting discussion of what frameless cabinets have to support the granite top.

clipped on: 07.14.2011 at 07:41 pm    last updated on: 07.14.2011 at 07:42 pm

RE: Will my kitchen be special, unique, memorable? (Follow-Up #102)

posted by: boxerpups on 04.22.2011 at 04:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

Breezy,
Your kitchen will be memorable if you focus on YOU.
Let you shine through. When you attack this with
confidence, bravery, gumption... that is what makes your
space authentic and unique.

The ideas below are what made others feel good and made
their place magical to them. You will discover what makes
you smile. You have the talent, passion and desire to make
your space memorable.
~boxerpups

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I have a passion for fun lights. I guess I love italian
light fixtures so when I think about space, I think about
making it bright or dim with one of these....


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Blue Green tile


And of course tile can be a place to play with color,
art, ideas, creative thoughts and definitely a piece of you.
Put YOU first and everything will fall into place.

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Fabric

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clipped on: 08.08.2011 at 02:57 pm    last updated on: 08.08.2011 at 02:58 pm

RE: Trailrunner! Bread! Help! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: trailrunner on 04.02.2011 at 04:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

Yep it was mine:

This is a double recipe. So you can halve it if you like;

13 c unbleached bread flour
3 1/2 c warm water
1/2 c sugar
1/2 c softened butter or margarine
6 large eggs ( have a 7th yolk only for glazing set aside)
3 tsp Kosher salt or 4 tsp table salt
9 tsp instant dry yeast ( not rapid rise...you can also sub active dry yeast) this = 4 pkgs./ envelopes

Place 13 c of flour into a large bowl . I have 13 qt metal bowls for this purpose. In a large cup measure or bowl place warm 100 degree water and add all of yeast and a large pinch of the sugar. When yeast foams add the rest of sugar, salt, soft butter/margarine, eggs. Beat with a whisk. Pour over all the flour and gently fold all the flour and liquids together just till barely moist. Cover with a towel and leave to autolyse for 30 min. Lightly dust counter top with flour and place dough on top. Knead till soft and pliable ...about 10-12 minutes. May add very light sprinkles of flour to prevent sticking. The dough should hold together and not be dry or wet . Place back in large clean and oiled bowl. Cover with towel or plastic and let rise till double...about 1 or 1 1/2 hrs. Remove from bowl and using a scale divide into 4 large loaves or 6 med. Then make 3 more balls from each of these for braiding. Place shapes loaves on Pam sprayed baking sheets and cover and let rise 1 hr. Do not let it over proof.

Preheat oven on convection bake at 350. Take reserved yolk and blend in a Tbsp or so of 1/2 and 1/2. Brush generously over the loaves and then dust with sesame seeds or poppy seeds. Even if you don't use seeds make sure and glaze the loaves. The keeping quality as well as the fragrance and crust are worth the extra effort. Bake for 30 minutes. Internal temp with digital thermometer is approx 190-200. Cool and enjoy. c

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clipped on: 04.02.2011 at 05:32 pm    last updated on: 04.02.2011 at 05:32 pm

RE: Trailrunner! Bread! Help! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: petra on 04.02.2011 at 02:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Jterri, is it this one from Paulines? (thread linked below)

* Posted by paulines (My Page) on
Sat, Jan 5, 08 at 21:38

Here's the challah recipe, I promised. It makes a sweet, eggy, almost brioche-like bread. I sometimes double the recipe for 2 large loaves.

Makes two small or one large challah.

2 1/4 t yeast
Approx. 3 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
Approx. 1/4 cup warm water
3 large eggs & 2 yolks, plus 1 for glazing
2 t salt
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1/3 cup honey

In a large bowl, whisk together the yeast and 1/4 cup of the flour, then whisk in the warm water until smooth. Let the yeast slurry stand uncovered for 10 to 20 minutes, or until it begins to ferment and puff up slightly.

Whisk the 3 eggs & yolks, salt, oil, and honey into the puffed yeast slurry until the eggs are well incorporated and the salt has dissolved. Stir in the remaining 3 1/4 cups flour all at once. When the mixture is a shaggy ball, scrape it out onto your work surface and knead it until smooth, no more than 5 minutes - if the dough is too firm to knead easily, add a tablespoon or two of water to it, if it seems too wet, add a couple T flour.

Place the dough in a warm clean bowl and cover it with plastic wrap. (for best results refrigerate the dough right after kneading, them removed from the refrigerator to finish fermenting up to 24 hours later). Let the dough ferment until it has at least doubled in bulk, about 2 hours, depending on the temperature in your kitchen. (If the dough has been refrigerated, it may take an extra hour or so to ferment).

Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper or oil them. Divide the dough into two portions for small loaves, one 1 1/2 pound portion for a large loaf. Divide each portion into 3 pieces and roll each piece into a strand - braid, sealing ends well.

Cover the loaves well with plastic wrap. (I refrigerate for 24 hours, if possible). Let them proof until tripled in size, about 2 hours (or 3-4 hours if the loaves were refrigerated).

Preheat the oven to 325�F. Beat the remaining egg with a pinch of salt for glazing the breads.

When the loaves have tripled and do not push back when gently pressed with your finger but remain indented, brush them with the egg glaze (poppy seeds optional). Bake the small loaves loaves for 25 to 38 minutes, or the large loaf for 35 to 48 minutes, until very well browned. After the first 20 minutes of baking, switch the loaves from front to back so that they brown evenly; if the large loaf is browning too quickly, tent it with foil. When the loaves are done, remove them from the oven and let cool on a rack.

Here is a link that might be useful: Party Thread

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clipped on: 04.02.2011 at 05:34 pm    last updated on: 04.02.2011 at 05:34 pm

RE: Shower Floor (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: Childseyes on 03.10.2011 at 09:03 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Follow-up - Cast iron receptor won't fit. We'd need another inch. I'm really bummed about that. And I really don't want tile.

So what started out as replacing our shower floor is morphing into replacing the entire shower and tub surround. Shower is 54" x 39 1/2".

I really liked the guy that came tonight, he did not seem to be a corner cutter but I have to get more estimates. I'm trying to figure out ways to whittle down the cost. The three most expensive parts of the quote:

corian shower pan w/install is $2600 ($750 cheaper for cultured marble).
Tile shower walls (up to ceiling) and tub surround $2900 (with $4/tile allowance)
3/8" frameless shower door (78" tall), $2568.

I'm having a hard time parting with any of those things and am feeling really discouraged. Thoughts?

NOTES:

Shower Pricing
clipped on: 10.29.2011 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2011 at 12:19 pm

RE: Shower Floor (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: mongoct on 02.18.2011 at 03:26 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I just checked my sheets, the Kohler K-9025-0 is indeed $896 list. If you source it yourself, online vendors have it for $550, the box stores for $640.

$150 for installation is perfectly reasonable.

For frameless glass, if you can't seem to find anything locally, look at Wilson Glass. Very DIY-friendly, not just for total DIY, but for DIY sourcing and then you hiring out the installation should you choose that route.

The caution I'll offer, and it's not really a "caution", just a head's up: Should you allow the installer to source the materials, your contract essentially says that he'll provide you with an "XYZ" shower. If the Kohler base is delivered damaged, it's up to the contractor to source a new one. If they break your glass doors during the installation, it's up to them to replace the doors at no additional charge to you.

If you source materials yourself, they are totally your responsibility. When they are delivered, inspect them and make sure everything is proper. Store them in a safe place. During installation if the installer causes damage, it's between you and the installer to work out an equitable solution for replacing the damaged goods. And work it out AHEAD of time.

Best bet is to have a clause in the contract that the installer is responsible for replacing any items damaged during movement or installation of those items, or any damage that occurs to those materials during the performance of his duties on the job.

You source them and when they are delivered to your house, you inspect them. All is good so you store them in your garage. Or basement. Or living room. When it's time for him to "touch" them, he inspects them and signs off they they are damage-free. Now they are his responsibility until the job is completed. There's always a middle ground if something does get dinged, but some sort of contractual language is best. Or you can pay retail and let him assume all responsibilities from A to Z. That's what his markup is for. It's simply built-in insurance for him.

NOTES:

About contract language if we source materials ourselves
clipped on: 10.29.2011 at 12:15 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2011 at 12:15 pm

RE: Induction Cooktop with 'Ture' Timers, and Q's onBosch Models (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: boschboy on 02.17.2011 at 07:34 am in Appliances Forum

I have the 800 series NIT8665UC. I like being able to select the hob and then press the exact setting I would like to use. This seems easier to me than having to press the +/- buttons. It appears that the 500 series would allow you to select the exact temperature in the same way the 800 series does.

You asked a question as to whether you can tell the difference between 5 and 5.5 and I can definitely say 'yes'. When I am simmering, and this seems to occur a lot when I am making oatmeal, I need to gradually decrease the temperature. It is easy to see the decrease in the simmer amounts as I move downward in power output.

I have also used the timers a few times and found them to be very useful. On mine the user has the choice to automatically turn the hob off when the time is done or to leave it on and just sound the alarm.

I have had my cooktop since the beginning of December last year and love it. I had the option of gas or electric and chose the induction after reading the comments in GW and also on The Induction Site.

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clipped on: 03.13.2011 at 03:58 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2011 at 03:58 pm

RE: HELP! 6 x 24 tiles are bowing (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bill_vincent on 01.26.2011 at 06:08 pm in Bathrooms Forum

This is something inherent in ALL large format tiles. This came out from The NTCA (national Tile Contractors Association) and the TCNA (Tile Council of North America) about 2 years ago, and was distributed to all contractors by Daltile:

Rectified tiles continue to increase in popularity, particularly in the commercial arena. For years, the industry and Dal-Tile have recommended that Rectified tiles can be installed with a 1/16" grout joint. However, from the contractor�s perspective, installations have become more time consuming and difficult to ensure compliant installations when attempting to install a Rectified tile with a 1/16" grout joint. In response, the new TCNA (Tile Council of North America) Handbook addresses this issue by recommending that the width of the grout joint used be determined by the ANSI A108.02 specification which states that the actual grout joint size shall be at least 3 times the actual variation of facial dimensions of the tile. To simplify: Rectified tiles, regardless of size, shall have a grout joint width no less than 1/8". As a result, Dal-Tile is changing its recommended grout joint width to be 1/8" for all of its Rectified tiles.

In addition, we will no longer recommend in our literature that Rectified and Non-Rectified large format rectangle sizes (Ex: 12" x 24") can be installed in a brickwork or running bond pattern where the overlap is 50%. The reason for this is that the allowable warpage for a tile based on ANSI specifications can create an installation issue when large format rectangular tiles are installed in a brickwork/running bond pattern. This allowable warpage can create a scenario where lippage is inevitable given the overlapping pattern. To mitigate this effect, Dal-Tile will be removing the brickwork pattern from our catalogs and literature. This will be replaced by a new pattern that will be referred to as a "Staggered" brickwork pattern where the overlap does not exceed 33%, and the grout joint width must be a minimum of 3/16".

NOTES:

See the rest of this thread + the one linked to in an earlier post. Something we need to consider!
clipped on: 11.23.2011 at 12:15 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2011 at 12:15 pm

RE: Bosch Induction Owners - Heat Settings/Burner Sizes (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: plumorchard on 10.27.2010 at 08:33 am in Appliances Forum

fiddleddd - love the user name!

Yes, that is the same model number you are considering. It is the 300 series and new for them I think. I had looked at Bosch before but didn't like the ss strips. So when I came across this one I added it to our list of possibilities. I didn't really look at others that were trimmed in ss so that narrowed things done a bit.

We considered Ikea/Whirlpool, Bosch, Fagor, Miele - Ruled out Miele because of cost ($2399). Ikea/Whirlpool ($999) is not approved to be mounted over an oven or we would have considered it closely.

Between the Fagor and the Bosch - I was not able to see a Fagor until very recently. It is very sleek and would have been fine but when I compared it to the Bosch, the Bosch won out. The Bosch is on sale at Lowes for $1529. The Fagor has a rebate to bring the price to $1599 so almost the same. However, I do like the 1/2 step options between levels with the Bosch so 17 settings vs. 12. Bosch states they have timers on all burners (and a kitchen timer too I think- don't recall) and the Fagor (if I recall) has one timer. The Fagor does have 3 quick starts to turn on the cooktop but I didn't see anything regarding boost function. The Bosch has boost on all burners (some models limit Boost, Whirlpool 1 (I think), Ikea 3 -you can usually get that from the owners manual. Total power for both is listed at 7.2. Bosch requires 40 amp/Fagor 30 amp (more power?) Also, the Bosch has the big 11" burner and the Fagor has two 9". After seeing them both the 9" would have been fine for what we use now but I'm not sure it would accommodate some of the larger stockpots etc. It has 2 6", 1 9" and 1 11" - I liked it that the 11" was in the back. Fagor has 2 9", 1 7" and 1 6 1/2".

The controls on the Bosch 300 are different than their other models. It is an up/down arrow vs. quick select. While I see the benefit of selecting the number you want and touching it etc. It is also nice to not have all the "traffic" along the cooktop with the numbers. I can't speak to how it will work yet - it hasn't arrived.

We were able to see a display model at Lowes for the Bosch. (Newer store, only one we could find - call first!) It does have a slight pattern on the cooktop as opposed to solid black. It doesn't really detract from it and will probably help hide scratches and finger prints. The Fagor I saw on display did have fingerprints and smudges visible. Not a biggie just mentioning it.

Anyway, we did order the Bosch - it should be here any day. Can't wait to try it. We are converting from gas after 22 years!

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clipped on: 03.13.2011 at 03:41 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2011 at 03:41 pm

RE: Yogurt-making question (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: susytwo on 06.15.2010 at 04:15 pm in Cooking Forum

Just wanted to give an update. I tried making my first batch of yogurt in the oven and it worked perfectly.

I heated 6 cups of milk (4 cups whole, 2 cups 1%) with a vanilla bean, strained it and let it cool, stirred in 4 1/2 Tablespoons of plain yogurt, and then put it in the oven on the bread proofing setting for 4 hours.

Even though it's already a nice consistency, I put it in the fridge to strain through a thin tea towel, just to see how much thicker it gets.

Thanks to everyone for your advice. It was so easy to do that it will become a regular thing on my weekly list.

NOTES:

Interesting thread
clipped on: 05.25.2012 at 09:32 am    last updated on: 05.25.2012 at 09:33 am

studio460 stand-alone trash bin: (Follow-Up #46)

posted by: studio460 on 01.13.2010 at 07:48 am in Kitchens Forum

2. (fig. 1)

"Open" trash bin void.

NOTES:

These folks purposely left a space between cabinets for the trash can -- which has a foot pedal to operate it.
clipped on: 07.12.2011 at 10:47 pm    last updated on: 07.12.2011 at 10:47 pm

My new kitchen--minus a few details. . .lots of pictures.

posted by: debsan on 03.14.2009 at 11:41 am in Kitchens Forum

Well, it's been almost done now for a couple months. Still need to figure out backsplash. Anyone have any ideas for me? I have some copper tiles that I'd planned to use as accent tiles, but I can't find the perfect combo. Trouble is, the kitchen is dark, so everything seems to look too dark. I was leaning toward something green that might complement the copper tile, but since I haven't found anything that's just right, I may go with a nice light neutral like white or off-white. I love carrera, but I'm not sure how it would look with the rest of the kitchen. Also, the range hood is going to get a copper accent on the front soon.

Here's the kitchen & dining area

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Oops, I should have closed that cabinet door.

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Ahhh . . that's better!

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Prep island is great--especially the cool trash chute with trash pull out and the fun & funky copper veggie sink.

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One more close up of that trash chute. Homage to the trash chute, because I love it so much!

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Front of island, with outlet for the laptop(s). Perfect for drinkin' coffee & catching up with GW.

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clipped on: 02.21.2012 at 10:33 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2012 at 10:33 pm

RE: counter height window pictures please (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: erikanh on 02.11.2009 at 05:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

americancolleen, you sound just like me! Months ago when I saw photos of some of these windows that go down to the counter, I decided I had to have one, and I wanted it to be the focal point of my kitchen.

My window trim isn't painted yet, but I wanted to show you my bump-out. It's only 6 inches deep, but it makes the area behind the sink seem huge. It was much less expensive to do than a greenhouse window. (Please ignore my leaning faucet ... not hooked up yet.)

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Good luck!

Erika

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clipped on: 05.31.2011 at 11:12 am    last updated on: 05.31.2011 at 11:12 am

RE: counter height window pictures please (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: mamadadapaige on 02.09.2009 at 11:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

here are mine... they are bumped out about 8"... inside and outside pic for you.
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clipped on: 05.31.2011 at 11:07 am    last updated on: 05.31.2011 at 11:08 am

RE: counter height window pictures please (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: buehl on 02.09.2009 at 08:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are a couple of shots of mine (nighttime/winter & daytime/summer)...

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clipped on: 05.31.2011 at 11:07 am    last updated on: 05.31.2011 at 11:07 am

Honed Verde Butterfly with Garnets (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: petra_granite on 12.06.2008 at 01:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

Verde Butterfly: Stone Type & Age:Metamorphosed Quartz Syenite ... Charnokite. Archean Circa 3000 million years. Brazil: technical name. charnokite vs. granite

". Conducive to a superior surface finish (Flaky stones like Verde Butterfly get resined to eliminate surface crystals from flaking off. This provides a smooth finish to the polished slabs)"
"The rocks in the collection are described as mafic charnokites (which is confusing in and of itself, since a charnokite is defined as a hypersthene bearing granite-diorite, and is therefore felsic with mafic elements) and related rocks, such as altered granulites, norites, and others"

"Garnet is a naturally occurring gemstone. Its name comes from Latin "Granatus" meaning seed. Garnet is the name which can be applied to six similar mineral species, namely almandine, pyrope, spessartine, grossular, andradite and uvarovite. To further complicate matters, many garnets are actually a combination of these minerals. Rhodolite Garnet, for instance, is a combination of almandine and pyrope and is sometimes referred to as pyrope-almandine garnet. There are also many trade names and other commonly used names such as Rhodolite, Tsavorite, and Mozambique which only add to the confusion."

After: reading all this: and about honed and resin and polish: and seeing "granite" all the time.
I believe the process completed at the factory before slab gets to stone yard or to fabricator that makes slabs shinny >brings out the color in the garnets more:

Honed process is different. I understand the pits better now: and I understand Verde Butterfly better after reading. It's about minerals and reactions to chemicals. And the reason they put exopy or resins on the stone.

I don't know what the answer is to enhance the garnets the way you want them to look?: (I promise you even in highly polished verde butterfly: I have seen slabs that I couldnt see the garnite: they looked black to me! Garnets are formed uniquely) I believe a color enhancer will soak into the stone and may make the garnets brighter. Acetone on the stone: wipe off: let dry a day or two: could put fan's on the granite to dry. DO NOT SEAL wet stone. Buy a really good VOC compliant color enhancer maybe off the web. Not retail brand. Maybe you have a natural stone store in your area that sells commercial brand color enhancer sealers?

Sounds like Verde Butterfly: is flaky.
I personally have Blue Pearl and Verde Butterfly pieces in my kitchen & bathroom that has raw edges: exposed Rock: I put jewlery & personal stuff on stone and in kitchen I put my kitchen stuff on them for deco the verde butterfly next to my stove. I got the edge look with scraps from left over slab scraps & by "dropping" the scrap pieces of stone on the floor until I had a good look all around the stone. But my exposed rock was milky: hard to see the beauty of the layers. (also: I don't really see the Flakey layers in the Verde Butterfly???? that they are referring to: I am not arguing: but to me : "Gold and Silver" Granite from Brazil with net backing to keep together and full of resin to hold together that falls apart when fabricating!!!!!!!!! I have some of that: Beautiful but super flakey! Layers of flake that you can pick at!)
SO : My point is: I soaked my pieces in color enhancer for a day! & now they look dark, rich, pretty and layers of rock are visable with garnets. Although the raw sides don't match the smooth polished resined top of the pieces: but I don't care.
So, I believe what I am trying to point out: I can see my raw stone and I color enhanced it & looks pretty after I manipulated the stone's color myself. (all matter of opinion)
FYI: by Boss/Owner here: she has Verde Butterfly in her kitchen 11-12 years now! She cooks constantly for big parties and has three "sloppy" kids! I am not kidding! Her countertops look great! I've been over there. She uses Olive oil daily! And her kids make hugh messes! She has a hugh Sink Elkay: $750 sink from 10 years ago: and never has dropped! and still looks great! Raw Travertine on the floor: not polished! Very abused and looks great to me! So, she is living proof. I promise: her countertops get abused! They are polished vs honed but still. Everything has been spilled on the verde butterfly and I am sure lemon too! (lol) : I promise!

I truly hope this helps you and really : You island looks great and matches the fireplace texture look!Love your fire.
~Happy Holidays~

i am allowed to state that I personally used pro stone color enhancer commercial brand: and No I am not advertising for them!
I believe any commercial brand would be good that you can get your hands on. Not retail. My opinion. Search the web or ebay for some. I could throw more names out there. But I don't want to be "advertising" I do not sell sealers or cleaners: I tell people were to go and what to use and what not to use.
Also: daily cleaner for natural stone should have a 4.5 ph nautral level not 7.5 ph : and VOC compliant: that is my opinion as well. Especially dealing with all the minerals and chemicals in stone! You can read all about that as well. and make up your own mind on cleaners.


BIG ARTICLE:
http://www.thefabricatornetwork.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge - NewsArticles/Print.aspx?tabid=81&tabmoduleid=155&articleId=125&moduleId=420&PortalID=0

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clipped on: 11.19.2011 at 08:07 pm    last updated on: 11.19.2011 at 08:07 pm

RE: Granite edges, pics pls, we need to choose (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: azstoneconsulting on 10.01.2008 at 09:50 am in Kitchens Forum

Here's a few edges that I teach other Fabricators to do:

This is what I cal the "Vintage River Washed" edge -
it's a heavy chiseled edge that I polish to look like
it's been "washed" or like an "ice cube" - makes cleaning
it way easy...
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This is the "Rope" edge - Igloochick - is this what you
call a "Marine Edge"? This one's on Granite:
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Here's another version - softer and wider separation of the
individual segments - done on Travertine:
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Here's a "Full Bullnose" 8CM thick profile we did on a conference
table:
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and a closeup of the same edge:
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Hope that helps ya!

kevin

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clipped on: 11.10.2011 at 09:23 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2011 at 09:23 pm

RE: kitchen drawer organizer? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: epek on 05.17.2008 at 07:15 pm in Organizing the Home Forum

Hi all,

I happily found the drawer organizer I was looking for. It's made by a drawer company called Valen. It's called a drawerganizer. It is similar to the Oxo, I believe. What I like is the total ability to customize easily. I don't yet know how much it costs or whether I can buy it directly, but I thought I would post the link.

Thanks so much to all of you for taking the time to help! If anyone is interested, I'll let you know when I find out purchase info.

epek

Here is a link that might be useful: valen drawerganizer

NOTES:

See other posts in this thread for drawer organizers
clipped on: 05.29.2012 at 11:46 am    last updated on: 05.29.2012 at 11:47 am

RE: Drainboard carved into granite/soapstone? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: florida_joshua on 04.28.2008 at 09:46 am in Kitchens Forum

Runnels

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Combo

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Most of our pictures are works in progress, but you can get a good idea. If you want more just ask. . .

NOTES:

Runnel and Drainboard Examples
clipped on: 11.08.2011 at 05:47 pm    last updated on: 11.08.2011 at 05:47 pm

Finished - Before/After pictures (finally!)

posted by: mysterymachine on 03.01.2008 at 04:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

Before:

This one gives you a better idea of how tight it was in the actual kitchen - if the fridge was open and the oven was open at same time there wasn't enough room for a person between

The wall that was removed:

Sorry I couldn't find any pictures of the dining room "before" it was just a plain carpeted rectangular room.

Now for the good stuff.. the after!

I have to mention that many of the after pictures were taken by the GC's photographer and are copyrighted so cannot be used without permission (he said I had to say that before I posted the pics).

The dining table and chairs we had before. All the design was done by me with lots of help from gardenweb - especially on the layout (at first my DW didn't trust me to do it and wanted to hire a designer but I think I did really well) the exceptions are the acrylic in the dining room was designed by my GC and the cabinets in the dining I gave general layout to the cabinet folks but they did the finished design (kitchen cabs I did all the design/layout). I used google sketchup for all the design.

The structural changes were removing the dining wall and bumping back just the chunk of the wall behind the wall ovens a couple feet. I also added a pocket door into the opening from the TV room to the kitchen as well (the last of the "before" pictures is taken from where the pocket door was put in).

There are so many details I could spend an hour typing them and still leave something out - so instead if you have any questions ask and I will respond :) One thing not noticeable in the pics is the cupboard on the right in the dining cabs is actually a beverage fridge. There is pullout trash+recycle in both the kitchen and dining.

And people always ask about the diswasher, yes its an 18" dishwasher, and they always ask why I went for a small one - becuase its the only way I could get the layout I wanted with the dishwasher to the left of the sink and where I could unload the whole dishwasher without moving my feet. The efficiency in loading/unloading more than makes up for the extra loads I have to run. Its a Miele with the silverware tray and I would estimate I only lose about 20% capacity compared to my old dishwasher.

The backsplash was done by my brother, its completely custom cut (as in he had a pile of leftover slab of rock from some other jobs of his and he cut all the peices to the exact size so it would be 2 tiles high on point). I bought the fossils on ebay over a 3 month period or so.

What's sad is the granite is the highlight of the kitchen and none of these pictures show it well. If you look close on the 3rd picture there you can see that it has black streaks and the picture with the sink you can see dark streaks there as well (in that area the streaks are dark grey)

Any questions? :)

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clipped on: 11.11.2011 at 09:35 am    last updated on: 11.11.2011 at 09:35 am