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RE: Shower Door Swing in and Out? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: lucycakes on 05.15.2008 at 11:57 am in Bathrooms Forum

Our glass door swings both in and out. Our glass guy said that most of those he installs do not use a plastic strip as that gets gunked up. He suggested installing it without a strip and he would come back in put it in if we wanted. It has truly not been a problem with leaks. There is a 1/4" gap between the door and panels. Maybe a drop or two of water gets out, but you'll have many more drips from just opening the door to the outside or stepping out of the shower. That said, I suppose that it also depends on where the shower head sprays in relation to door.
We like having the option of it swinging each way. I do leave the door swung inward after a shower with the fan on to vent.
Just another viewpoint - hope this helps.

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clipped on: 05.17.2013 at 11:59 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2013 at 12:00 am

RE: What to do with Kitchen Soffit above cabinets (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: live_wire_oak on 01.19.2011 at 06:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

#1. Rip out the soffits and replace with stacked crown molding.

#2. Use beadboard wallpaper on it (adding no real thickness) and create "doors" in it by using molding strips to mimic your cabinets below. Paint the same color as your cabinets and use crown molding at the top the same color as your cabinets and it will blend in much better.

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clipped on: 05.16.2013 at 03:09 pm    last updated on: 05.16.2013 at 03:09 pm

RE: installing shower wall along shower curb? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mongoct on 07.21.2012 at 02:50 pm in Bathrooms Forum

If I'm understanding your post correctly...it depends on the construction/design of the pan.

If the pan can't bear the weight of the wall framed right on top of it, probably the easiest would be to build a 2x6 wall and notch out the bottom of one side of the studs to go over the curb.

Example...let's say your curb is 4" wide and 3" high. Think of the stud standing vertically. You'd want the notch to be tall enough to clear the curb height, say 3-1/8" to 3-1/4". You'd want the notch to be deep enough to cover most of the curb, but not so deep that the stud is too fragile after it is notched. So for this example make the notch 2-3/4" deep, leaving 2-3/4" of the 5-1/2" width of the 2x6 uncut. A 2-3/4" deep notch will cover 2-3/4" of the 4" of curb width, leaving 1-1/4" of the curb exposed.

In the drawing below, think of the "x" as the stud and the "o" as the pan. You can see how the stud is notched out to accept the pan. The "z" is the sole plate for the wall. You'll have two sole plates. One at the bottom of the wall that will sit on the bathroom floor, one at the bottom of the notch that will sit just above the top of the pan's curb. "c" is the cement board and "t" is the tile.

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When you add the cement board and tile to the inside face of the wall, it'll build it out a bit, but a bit of the edge of the curb will remain visible. How much depends on the style of the curb, if the edge is closer to square, or if it has a generous radius, etc. If you use 6-mil poly in that wall, seal the bottom edge of it to the top of the curb.

In this case, your curb is 4" thick, the notch is 2-3/4" deep, leaving 1-1/4" of curb exposed. The 1/2" of cement board, the 1/8" thickness of thinset, and the 1/4" thickness of the tile will cover another 7/8ths-inch of the curb, leaving 3/8" of the curb exposed.

One other comment...if the inside edge of the curb is dead straight then all will look fine. If the inside edge of the curb waivers in and out a bit, that 3/8" of curb might go from 3/8", to 1/2", to 1/4", etc, as the curb waffles around. The more your curb waffles in and out, the more curb you need to leave exposed to compensate for the waffling.

With 2x6 framing, this will be a "thick" wall. A great opportunity to use the stud bays for storage. A shower niche on the inside, or a tall "medicine cabinet" or "storage pantry" built in to the stud bays on the opposite side.

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clipped on: 03.01.2013 at 09:47 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2013 at 09:47 pm

RE: What Kind of Shower Doors? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cat_mom on 02.27.2013 at 12:00 am in Bathrooms Forum

We used a 3/8" glass frameless shower door/enclosure with our Kohler cast iron shower receptor/pan. It feels very sturdy and looks great. We used starphire glass, and a taller height, but kept the cost down somewhat by using the 3/8" glass instead of 1/2" glass. We also added ClearShield to help keep the glass clear.

HTH!

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clipped on: 02.27.2013 at 08:23 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2013 at 08:24 pm

RE: Shower light - what type? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: lee676 on 02.10.2013 at 11:46 am in Bathrooms Forum

Code requires showers to have wet-rated, not just damp (which is suitable for elsewhere in a humid bathroom with a shower or tub in it). Basically, if water can conceivably splash onto it, it must be wet rated.

I like the Halo 4" shower trim that HD sells - you can put a standard LED light bulb into it if there's no warning about using it in fully-enclosed fixtures, like the $10 Utilitech 450-lumen bulb that Lowes sells (made by Feit)

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clipped on: 02.27.2013 at 03:59 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2013 at 03:59 pm

RE: Shower light - what type? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mongoct on 02.09.2013 at 09:43 pm in Bathrooms Forum

The Cree 4" are damp rated (I have two cases of them next to my desk), so you could use those in the ceiling in a shower. The ones I have are 575 lumens.

I recommend an air tight can. I have a couple of cases of the Halo H99RTAT cans for the Crees.

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clipped on: 02.27.2013 at 03:58 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2013 at 03:58 pm

RE: Should the first row of tiles on a shower pan be angled or fl (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: bill_vincent on 02.23.2013 at 07:31 pm in Bathrooms Forum

THe backerboard should stop just ABOVE the flange, so it won't kick out, and then the tile comes down over it, leaving just enough for a caulk joint between the tile and the shower receptor.

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clipped on: 02.27.2013 at 03:38 pm    last updated on: 02.27.2013 at 03:38 pm

Possible cure for second or first floor F/L vibration woes

posted by: monaw on 01.31.2010 at 09:12 am in Laundry Room Forum

I'm about to have a Miele washer/dryer installed on second floor of my home and thought I would share this info/idea with anyone who is searching for possible solutions to the vibration hell that some speak of. First of all we have put a 3/4 inch piece of plywood which is screwed and glued down on top of oak flooring. I intend on using the following treatment other than using plywood instead of oak that this gentlemen did: (the following is copied)

"Heres what we did to solve the noise and vibration problem. I cant take credit for this solution as we read this solution in another review and tried it and it worked for us. I am VERY grateful I found the solution on the Internet. We have a weak floor that vibrated & the washer on spin cycle would travel around the floor due to the vibration. Leveling the washer was NOT enough to stop this problem. We had a local lumberyard cut us three 1"x12" solid oak boards to place on the floor as a solid base for our washer and dryer. We also put a stall mat on top of these boards. A stall mat comes in 4x6 dimensions and is inches thick. Its made of an extremely dense rubber material (one of these mats will weigh 100 pounds or more). The stall mats are available anywhere farm materials are sold. Sometimes they are called cow mats, or horse mats or even barn mats. They are made to cushion the floor for a horse or cow (and can withstand the wear and tear of 1400+ pounds of animal and their hooves and waste each day so theyre VERY durable). I bought ours for less than $40 so its NOT an expensive solution. You can cut the mat to size with a common utility knife. Just lift the edge of the mat and cut the proper width. Its not difficult. Once the washer and dryer are placed on this solid base, you wont have ANY problems with vibration or noise. Even an apartment installation would be adequate to dampen vibration to those below the apartment. It works great. The base looks professional too if you make it to the exact size of the washer/dryer combo".

I will post the results after installation.

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clipped on: 01.30.2013 at 09:28 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2013 at 09:28 pm

RE: Light fixture over shower - what type? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mongoct on 11.14.2012 at 09:20 am in Bathrooms Forum

If you go "standard", consider an air-tight IC-rated can light with a shower trim kit. Usually about $10 for the can and maybe $25 for the shower trim kit.

There are 3" and 4" LED cans available that are rated for wet and damp locations. About $45-55 for the entire unitdepending on size.


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clipped on: 01.17.2013 at 12:32 am    last updated on: 01.17.2013 at 12:48 am