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RE: OT: Ants!! (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: mimi_2006 on 04.03.2008 at 03:54 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Here's a pretty good article about natural insect control.

Also, for those building a house, boric acid powder is supposed to be an excellent pest control especially for roaches. You can't sprinkle it around with pets and children, but we put a fine powder of it behind the sheetrock and on the floor beneath where the kitchen cabinets were to be installed. I asked the builder to let me know when the sheetrock was going up and the day before we spinkled thoroughly with boric acid. It's a one shot chance to treat BEHIND your walls for prevention. I first heard of this idea on this forum. DH rolled his eyes like I was nuts but when the builder confirmed that a lot of people did it and that it was a great idea, he was out buying the boric acid the next

Here is a link that might be useful: Natural Insect Pest Control


clipped on: 04.08.2008 at 03:22 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2008 at 03:22 pm

RE: What should I do with this stupid wall? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: mlraff53 on 03.25.2008 at 01:04 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I did two coats of stain and two coats of poly. In the pics, I hadn't done the poly on the doors yet.
It was a lot of work but so worth it. The cabinets were alot easier than the doors.

First you have to remove the doors. Dont fight it just take them off. Clean them really well. Years of grease and dust.
I didnt sand. If I had to do it again I would consider applying a dark primer (maybe black since my stain is so dark).
I used a sponge brush to apply and a regular brush to spread. It worked better for me. If you have real wood, apply the stain heavily with the sponge, wait a few minutes, then wipe off with a rag. The more coats you do the darker it gets.
If you have wood/plastic or whatever it is that they make cheap builder cabinets from then:
Apply the stain heavily and as even as possible with the sponge brush. Wait probably about 5-6 minutes. Then using a dry brush, make even straight strokes. This will even out the stain. You can keep brushing until it looks good to you. Sometimes I needed a second coat but not heavy just really a light coat with the sponge.
Then I applied two coats of polyurethane. This was the fun part because you cant mess it up. Its clear!
I highly recommend that you practice somewhere. The more you practice the better you get.
I did my master bath. then started on my kitchen and didnt get my technique down until halfway thru my cabs.
I just hope it lasts and doesnt chip. Some ladies here told me that the poly takes about a month to cure (to make it strong). So be careful with them.
Also be careful when you tape your walls. As I removed the tape, it pulled some of the stain from the cabs. I have to retouch. Dont use tape or come up with a different plan.
I hope I answered all the questions. I hope to post finished pics next week.


clipped on: 03.25.2008 at 06:21 pm    last updated on: 03.25.2008 at 06:21 pm

RE: What should I do with this stupid wall? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: mlraff53 on 03.25.2008 at 10:00 am in Home Decorating Forum

Hi I just wanted to show you my cabinets just finished with Minwax gel stain in Walnut:

Baby Turtle kitchen
BM Baby Turtle kitchen

I agree with the post of doing it all in walnut and then the backs in the gold or an accent color. Of course that would be alot of work.


clipped on: 03.25.2008 at 12:37 pm    last updated on: 03.25.2008 at 12:37 pm

RE: Crazy expanding ad (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: bmorepanic on 02.18.2008 at 04:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

If you use internet explorer put these sites:


in your restricted sites. This will stop most of it.

In the window menus:
-----Internet options
-------Security Tab
----------Highlight the picture of restricted sites
----------Press the sites button
----------type in or copy(ctrl-c)/paste(ctrl-v) each of the five site names above - including the astericks and click add.
----------press close
------Press ok button

That's about 50% of the advertising. Some other sites you visit may also have advertisements disappear.


clipped on: 02.19.2008 at 12:52 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2008 at 12:52 pm

RE: Drapery hanging question - pinch pleats on rings (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: valinsv on 01.27.2008 at 11:45 pm in Home Decorating Forum

greenmtn: After re-reading your post, I think I understand what you mean. Now, that the drapes are closed, I can see how the ends really need to return back to get that straight finished edge. We don't have an eyehook though we will have to rig something up. Would love to see a pic of what you describe. I still like the idea of sewing an eyehook into the drapery as the fabric tends to snag if I put a drapery hook into the end section whic goes into the fabric.

momof1: I purchased the rod and rings at Lowes. It is a Levelor Hampton rod. The rings come with clips on them, but I removed the clips and put the drapery hooks into the little loop where the clips were attached. If you like this look, you have to select the clip rings very carefully as I noticed some brands have the clips attached to the loop and are not detachable. If you have pinch pleats I think it's a cleaner look, though the clips are nice to hang other styles of drapes.

Looks like we are going to have to move in the brackets, but at least we can open/close so I think I'll wait until the other brackets for the traverse rod and the fling rods come in and do it right. As it's the bedroom, it's essential to have our privacy every night. Hopefully we can measure better this time.


clipped on: 01.28.2008 at 12:59 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2008 at 12:59 pm

Looking for old post about woman who did her own wood wall panels

posted by: liketolearn on 12.05.2007 at 10:42 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I'm looking for an post about a woman who DIY'd her own wood wainscoting.

If I remember she did it herself using power tools to cut the trim pieces. Sorta of a Craftsman-style wainscoting rather than a beadboard. I think it might have been in a family room on the wallls and included some angled panels near a stairway. And it might have been a basement as I think there was a square post (like a support post) that she covered too. It was her project and she did most (or all of it) without her DH's help.

I love what she did and REALLY wanted to show it to DH and just can't find the post. I don't think the post was that old that it would have dropped off. Hopefully someone remembers or original poster sees this and can add some photos. Can anyone help me out?


clipped on: 01.03.2008 at 01:18 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2008 at 01:18 pm

Where do you get fabric/

posted by: telly1010 on 04.16.2007 at 09:10 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I've finished my kitchen renovation, and it is now open to my family room. I need to find fabric for the window valances, and I'm not sure where to look. I know Calico Corners sells fabric. Anyone have any advice or hints in looking for fabric I can use to make valances? thanks!


clipped on: 06.28.2007 at 12:16 pm    last updated on: 06.28.2007 at 12:16 pm

RE: Framing around bath mirror (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: mclarke on 06.27.2007 at 05:43 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Okay, here goes.

You will need:

- a mitre saw or a mitre box w/saw
- a small hand saw or coping saw (a hacksaw will also work)
- Elmer's wood glue
- paint (I used acrylic latex, craft paint and spray lacquer for a gloss finish)
- small nails
- hammer
- drill
- four corner clamps (Home Depot)
- a 1/2" wood chisel (Home Depot)
- four metal mirror clips (Home Depot)
- clear silicone caulk or silicone aquarium sealer

First, buy a set of metal mirror clips. You'll find these in Home Depot in the "Picture Framing" section. They come two to a package. I used 3/8" clips. The size of the clips is determined by the thickness of your mirror glass. Use the smallest you can get that will hold your mirror to the wall. This is the secret to "working around" the plastic clips, LOL.

Remove the plastic clips and replace them with the metal clips. No, wait -- actually, put the metal clips on FIRST and THEN remove the plastic clips, so the mirror doesn't fall off the wall, LOL.

Depending on the size of your mirror, you might want to use mollies with the clips. (My mirrors are resting on backsplashes, so I wasn't too worried about them falling.) If you use mollies, make sure you get the kind that are flush to the wall.

You're using metal clips because they have a much lower profile. This will be important later.

Two clips on the top and two on the bottom should suffice.

Next, measure the mirror and buy your trim. Give yourself about a foot extra on each side, because you'll have to cut it down for the mitered corners.

Make sure the trim you buy is not warped. You can do this by laying the pieces on the floor at the store. The pieces should lie flat on the floor.

NOTE: You are going to paint and assemble the frame BEFORE you put it up.

Paint the trim BEFORE you cut it. When painting long trim pieces, make sure you put a base coat on BOTH SIDES, front and back, even though you are only going to see one side. If you only paint one side, the wood will warp. (I found THAT out the hard way, LOL.) You can do this if you lay the trim on a couple of paint cans as you paint.

When you have the paint and finish the way you want it, carefully measure your mirror. (If you're new at this sort of thing, you might want to make a mockup of cardboard or craftpaper first, to get the measurements exact.) Remember, you want the edge of the glass to fall about halfway under the frame.

Measure and mark the wood, and carefully cut your four pieces, mitering the corners at 45 degrees.

Sand the cut edges till they're smooth. Don't worry about little chips in your paint, you'll touch these up later.

Before you glue the corners, drill small nail holes in the side corners of the two side pieces only. Drill all the way through. (You will put little nails here after the frame is assembled, for added strength and to prevent twisting.)

Lay the four pieces on a flat surface. (I use the floor) Put the corner clamps at each corner, adjusting them until you're satisfied with all four corners.

Now release the corners, one at a time, applying glue to the edges that will join, and return the corners to the clamp, tightening each corner, one at a time, wiping away excess glue as you go.

Leave the frame to dry over night.

In the morning, remove the corner clamps carefully.

Put four small nails into your four nailholes. Countersink the heads, and if they are going to show, fill them.

With fine sandpaper or steel wool, smooth off any flaws. Using an artist's brush, touch up any part of the corners that need to be touched up. Let this dry.

Try your frame onto the mirror. You will see that the frame still doesn't lie quite flat to the mirror because of the clips. Using a pencil, mark the back of the frame where the clips interfere with the frame.

Using a small handsaw and the wood chisel, chip away just enough wood from the back of the frame so that the frame will lie flat to the mirror. This is easier than it sounds... it's a very small bit of wood and you don't have to be too delicate about it because it's on the back of the frame and no one will ever see it.

When you've chipped out your four small bits of wood, the frame should now lie flat to the glass!

Clean the mirror and the back of the frame very well. Apply a bead of silicone adhesive to the back of the frame -- not too close to the inner edge, because you don't want the silicone to show in the mirror -- and press the frame to the glass.

Stand there and hold the frame to the mirror for twelve hours.

Okay, not really. This last bit is kind of hard to describe... I contrived several lengths of scrap wood and gallon paint cans as braces to hold the frame pressed to the wall until it cured.

I wish I had pictures of the process, sorry.

I hope I haven't scared anyone off. Let me know if I've been too obscure and I'll try and help.

Good luck and let me know how you do!


clipped on: 06.27.2007 at 09:25 pm    last updated on: 06.27.2007 at 09:25 pm

question for igloochic again

posted by: sheilaaus122 on 06.25.2007 at 01:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am going to get the primer and try this on a bathroom vanity in the guest room (so it wont be too bad if I mess up). It is a medium to dark oak which I THINK I would like to paint either espresso or black. You said you had them tint the primer- sorry for my total ignorance but how do you (they) know what and how to tint it? And do you really promise that I can simply wash with vinegar, prime and paint and have it look good with no sanding? I am planning to hopefully get to SW tomorrow to at least try the primer. It really sounds too good to be true. Promise?
Here is your famous post++++

So here's the post which starts out talking about tinted primer because this person wanted my deep brown:

I only use high quality nylon (Purdy) brushes. I prefer them for wood finishes. They cost more but they last forever! I did have the primer tinted, and tinted it's kind of light purple color LOL so it looks funny until you start putting more paint on. They hate tinting it, but make them do it anyhoo!

Don't let anyone talk you into anything different (they always try to with me and it's never worked out). This is exactly what I use:

Sherwin Williams PrepRite ProBlock Interior Exterior Seals and Bonds, Latex primer (it's the most expensive...but if you don't like sanding or using chemicals to prep, this is the stuff for you!). I've never had to sand or strip first using this on the worst shiny stuff.

Sherwin Williams Exterior All Surface Gloss Enamel
Code IFC411X
Woodsy Brown 100% mix formula 2924 (color code)
They use Acrylic Latex HIGH GLOSS Ultradeep base 6403-25932
Code A41T00204

Do not take a less glossy finish. This finish dries HARD and rich :) (There's a man joke in there somewhere but I'll avoid making it)

I use one coat of primer and let it dry a day at least, then two coats (one day between at least) of paint with a good Purdy brush (which is important). With just one coat the grain still effects the paint, but with the two on top of the primer you get that nice smooth look :)

I'm a paint freak, so forgive me for saying this if you know. Don't use rollers for wood. I like a 1 1/2 inch and a 2 1/2 or 3" brush at the most. The smaller works well on the small areas so you don't drip or oversmear the sides of the project.



clipped on: 06.25.2007 at 03:43 pm    last updated on: 06.25.2007 at 03:43 pm