Clippings by june6294

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RE: 100 year old trim- what would you do? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 03.21.2006 at 11:07 pm in Woodworking Forum

Test for shellac on existing old finish: If denatured alcohol removes it, it was/is shellac.
_some_ polys very much resent being applied over even a trace of shellac. The poly will turn white in a few days after applying it. That's a very good reason not to use it. Shellac is the fastest drying varnish out there. You can apply three or four coats in a day. You can mix your own shellac fresh from flakes by dissolving it in alcohol (or better still Behkol, proprietary shellac solvent) as fresh shellac dries the fastest and hardest. For my old house woodwork I use two coats of "garnet" shellac ( a deep ruddy color) followed by several coats of blond or ultra blond. After the finish has cured, I apply paste wax (Johnson's, Minwax finishing wax, etc) with 4/0 steel wool, and buff with a woolen cloth. The patina thus achieved is rarely surpassed.(except by french polishing - and you can do that for the doors where it shows to best advantage) It's smooth a silk, easy to dust, reversible, none of which can be said for a poly varnish, which unavoidably dries with dust specks, etc. that really cannot be rubbed out.
Just my two cents, as a life-long historic preservationist, old-house carpenter, and finish dude.
Casey

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clipped on: 11.13.2010 at 01:02 pm    last updated on: 11.13.2010 at 01:02 pm

RE: So Many types of Viburnams (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: gardening_at_night on 08.05.2002 at 09:57 pm in Wildlife Garden Forum

the most attractive viburnum also happens to be native to the eastern united states. its viburnum nudum. the cultivar most nurseries offer is called 'winterthur'. you need to get 2 different varieties to get the berries. the berries change colors as they age-blue-black, pink, and red. the fall color is better than any other shrub in my opinion. its a glossy wine color. the leaves are very glossy on this plant almost like they are wet and it has a uniform growing habit.
its far more attractive than dentatum and prunifolium in my yard, although i like those too.

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clipped on: 05.14.2007 at 03:05 am    last updated on: 05.14.2007 at 03:05 am

RE: So Many types of Viburnams (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: Christie_SW_MO on 08.04.2002 at 11:43 pm in Wildlife Garden Forum

Rita - I remember reading an article that said that v. trilobum and nannyberry were a couple of the better viburnums for attracting birds but nannyberry would get taller than what you want. There is a v. trilobum compactum but it might not flower and fruit as well as the species. You're right - There are a lot. I've had trouble choosing too. I've planted some that are native and some that aren't. I'm sure I saved a few websites that might help you. These two are just general and you may already have them http://www.hort.uconn.edu/plants/v/v.html and http://www.hort.uconn.edu/plants/v/v.html Here's a couple on viburnums http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/wildlife/ntvplts/viburn.htm and http://www.nobleplants.com/articles/viburnum.htm Hope that helps.

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clipped on: 05.14.2007 at 03:04 am    last updated on: 05.14.2007 at 03:04 am

RE: Backsplash grouting and measuring (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: bill_vincent on 11.10.2006 at 08:36 am in Kitchens Forum

I'll tell you one thing for sure-- it would NOT be the bathroom. Of all the types of installations that I do, if I had to pick one where I'd use it, it would be countertops. Mold and mildew don't scare me as much as countertop bacteria from meat juices, etc.. But even there, keeping it clean with a good antimicrobial cleaner will do the same thing. In the bathroom, if you want something to combat mold and mildew, the same people who make Spectralock (Laticrete) also make grout additives that have antimicrobial agents in them. Mapei also puts them in their grouts.

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clipped on: 01.10.2007 at 10:56 pm    last updated on: 01.10.2007 at 10:56 pm

RE: Muralo vs. Cabinet Coat .....Michael? Anyone? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: brushworks on 12.14.2006 at 08:50 pm in Paint Forum

If Muralo is available, I recommend that one over any other paint. The Ultra Waterborne Satin is what I prefer. All of their Ultra paints finish like porcelain.

It's a bit tricky to apply, as are most true waterborne paints. The same ingredients that makes it level quick to a smooth finish is what makes it run easily.

Over the unfinished maple, use the Muralo Universal primer, 2205.

Ask for the Elder & Jenks Brush that's made for Muralo paint. It's the GenX brush.

Michael

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clipped on: 12.18.2006 at 02:12 am    last updated on: 12.18.2006 at 02:12 am

RE: Just a bit of paint praise (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: cookiemonsterdh on 08.28.2006 at 03:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'll see if we can get a picture to post, but the pictures we took after the first coat really don't come close to doing it justice.

Re Method:

We took the door off it's hinges and layed it on saw horses on a drop cloth INSIDE. It's WAY too hot to paint outside the paint would dry too fast and would be covered with every bug in a 5 sq mile radius I'm sure.

I used a high end bristle (as opposed to nylon) sash (angled edge) brush. There were so many pieces of moulding in between the flat planes that a roller just didn't seem like it would help much. I found the key to keeping a wet edge (which really IS the key as you pointed out mindstorm)was to start at one end of the door and work sloooowly through to the other. I was moving forward about 6-10" per pass (though there was a ton of variation, that was about the average... ish ;)) trying to make sure I hit each section in the same sequence. You REALLY have to avoid the temptation to finish a particular piece and keep moving from side to side on the door. I have never seen or worked with a paint that self levels as much as this stuff, but it's important to NOT go back and touch up sections that you have finished, get them on the next coat if needed.

I steel wooled the whole door after the first coat, vacuumed it with a hepa filter shop vac, then tack clothed it. The final coat I plan on doing the same thing, but only using the steel wool on the horizontal surfaces, as even with 0000 wool, it was getting the sharp edges of the moulding almost back down to primer.

My basic rules of thumb now that I've done 2 coats with the FPE:

1. Do small sections at a time.

2. Paint quickly putting the newly dipped brush down several inches from the wet edge of the last section and then painting back towards it.

3. Minimize any touching up and avoid the temptation to try and even out the brush strokes by dragging the brush though already painted areas.

4. Trust the self leveling to eliminate any brush strokes, only runs are a real problem.

Overall, though I've found the whole project to be a major time sink, particularly getting all the hardware off and stripping off 70+ years of lead paint, It's been very rewarding. I can't wait to see the response of our friends/family when they come to our annual Crab/Shrimp feast in about a week. :)

James

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clipped on: 09.21.2006 at 06:23 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2006 at 06:23 pm