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RE: Benjamin Moore Wythe Blue fail (Follow-Up #42)

posted by: honeybasil on 03.28.2013 at 09:03 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Here are some samples I have. From the left: Gray Wisp, Oyster Bay, Beach Glass, Quietude.

I know I need to paint larger areas on the wall, but now this Wythe Blue is making it really difficult.


clipped on: 01.26.2015 at 02:24 am    last updated on: 01.26.2015 at 02:24 am

RE: I Know Nothing - Need Advice! (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: GreenDesigns on 01.04.2012 at 02:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'd probably leave the whole arch thing alone structurally and just yank off the tile, repair the drywall and cover the whole thing with stainless steel. A local metal fabricator ought to be able to do the job, or even the HVAC person that I would hire to put in a hood insert into the upper portion of the mantle. A cool stainless mantle hood echoes the traditional mantle hood that is so popular in traditional cabinetry, but the stainless updates it to modern.

As for the doors, I agree that nothing about arched raised panels will work with either modern or transitional. I'd just take the doors off and paint the boxes to match the bases. Here's the key, though. Paint the cabinet back walls the same as your wall color. That will make the shelves and boxes "float" and appear more as open shelving that just cabinets without doors. I wouldn't fill the hinge hardware holes just yet though. If you can't live with keeping things tidy and dust free, then have some open frame doors made for glass and install those. If you find that you love the open shelf look, then you can fill the holes and touch up the paint.

For the island, I'd pick a fun modern color and have at it with paint. Orange, eggplant, fuschia, lime, turquoise---there has to be a great color out there that you've used in the rest of the house. Even a "neutralized" color could work, like a sagey green, or a greige, or a gray-lavender or a browned orange or a blackened red. Pick up that island color with accessories for the kitchen and breakfast area.

Here is a "how to" to paint those cabinets. It was originally posted in response to how to judge a professional paint job from a contractor, but the steps are the same even if you DIY.

Here is how I would expect a pro to spray paint kitchen cabinets. A brush painted job would differ slightly in that you wouldn't hang the doors to paint. You'd place them on a work table or easel instead. It's time intensive work, and should take 7-14 days to accomplish completely and cost between 3K-7K depending on kitchen size and amount of detail in cabinets.

Remove doors and drawer fronts.
Remove hinges and hardware.
Clean with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate)
Rinse and let dry.
Scrape any loose finish.
Fill any damaged spots or hardware holes that won't be reused.
Sand fill smooth.
Scuff sand the rest.
Tack off dust.
Hang in dust free paint booth with wires through hardware points.
Tack off dust again.
Spray with alkyd based primer.
Scuff sand again.
Tack off dust.
Spray with second coat of primer.
Spray with first finish coat of latex enamel.
Spray with second coat of latex.
If glazing is to occur, that is next.
Spray with conversion varnish.
(If being brush painted, this step is typically skipped.)

Add more molding or decorative details to boxes, filling nail holes and sanding smooth.

Repeat prep process with face frames and exposed cabinet sides using plastic to create a spray booth on site. If interiors are to be done, they are done before face frames and sides. Interiors are difficult, and add both time and expense to the job.

Allow everything to fully cure.
Clean hinges and hardware and clear coat if you're keeping the old hardware.
Install new (or old) hinges and hardware.
Re-install doors and drawers and adjust for proper clearances.

If you are receiving a job without this amount of effort, then you are not receiving a quality professional job.


clipped on: 01.24.2015 at 08:32 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2015 at 08:32 pm

RE: How Do You Feel About Your House? (Follow-Up #70)

posted by: lynninnewmexico on 01.18.2015 at 07:47 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Your dilemma reminds me a bit of my little sister's. Her dream home is a contemporary take on a rustic log cabin retreat near our family in Michigan. Instead, she married a totally wonderful guy with 3 kids (second marriage for both) and she and her kids moved into his 4 bedroom ranch style home in the country on 27 acres . . . 30 minutes from most of our siblings and their families. Not her dream home, but it's a happy home for their now blended family.

What they've done ( and perhaps what you can also do) is make their home into the fun gathering place that everyone wants to come to. Although their house itself is nice enough, it's no showplace by any means. But, those acres . . . that peace . . . those views are a huge draw for the city and suburb folks! These are some of the ideas they use to get people happily out to their place. Perhaps some might work for you.

* Hayrides - either horse or tractor drawn- along with a potluck supper in Summers and Autumns. People don't mind bringing along food and drinks for a fun event. It can be a large or a small group. They set up tables (some that people bring with them if needed) in one of their barns.
* BBQs of all kinds, again, many potluck.
* Inviting everyone over to fish and then a potluck dinner or lunch afterwards. Sis has a large pond, but you have that stream. No one will care if the fishing is poor, it's the fun of it all that matters.
* Game Nights: cards, board games or whatever sounds good at the moment.
* Football game watching parties.
* Pumpkin carving, with or without a Halloween party.
* Summer picnics by the water with a nature hike
* my BIL loves to take us for rides around their property just to see what's blooming in my dad's old golf cart that he bought recently. Fun!
* barn dances: as casual as you want them to be with whatever music that floats your boat, from Willie & Garth to Golden Oldies or the latest hip hop. With that acreage around you, you can crank up the volume and have fun dancing the night away.
*Easter egg hunts with a Spring feast in the barn or wherever.
* Winter hikes or rides with a potluck dinner after of chile and the fixings. Hot cocoa, too.
* Hunting parties in season, if that's your thing.
* Movie night sleepover with popcorn and old monster movies and then a fun group breakfast in the morning in their pjs.
*Swimming and lawn game parties for families.

In other words, Sis and her DH create inexpensive fun ways that makes their families and friends LOVE spending time at their home, regardless that it's a 30 minutes or so drive.

And, Sis arranges to meet up with her friends and family in town~ or some place in between at least once or twice a week. At their home, a coffee shop, restaurant or mall.

My sis will probably never get her dream home, but she's determined to make the best of what she has . . . and let me tell you, our family and their friends LOVE spending time with them at their place in the country!

It doesn't sound as if you're going to get that dream home of yours either, JLC. But, please don't let it ruin the life you do have . . . or your relationship with your DH. I hope that, like my sis, you can find ways to make the life you have, a happy, satisfying one. I think Sis and her DH have done a spectacular job with theirs. My best wishes to you.

This post was edited by lynninnewmexico on Sun, Jan 18, 15 at 19:51


clipped on: 01.20.2015 at 02:16 am    last updated on: 01.20.2015 at 02:16 am

RE: Anyone paint oak cabinets...and regret it?? (Follow-Up #56)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 06.09.2009 at 01:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are in the middle of painting our oak cabinets. I spent a week using Pore-o-Pac to fill in the wood grain. It's a brushable pore filler. I did 2 coats of this on each door. Fronts only. Before I applied it, I sanded and washed each one with TSP. We have sprayed the BM Fresh Start primer twice, and I have to say--I don't really see the grain (on the fronts). Next step is the Impervo enamel top coat. The can says it can be used in a sprayer, so that is what we are planning on doing. I just need to decide between BM White Cloud and BM White Down.

We were going to glaze them as well, but on the practice/scrap door, it made the white down too yellow. So, we aren't sure about glazing right now.


clipped on: 01.16.2015 at 11:44 pm    last updated on: 01.16.2015 at 11:44 pm

Finished Kitchen~White, Marble, Soapstone

posted by: katieob on 12.04.2009 at 02:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all.

A huge thank you to everybody on this forum who helped graciously with advice, photos, experience & info. What an incredible resource this is. Shout outs to Erikanh & marthavila for hood help, willowdecor for tile, all the stoners, and many more.

We moved in last week-bottom trim on fridge & dw are still missing, excuse the messy bottoms.

I'll be happy to provide details if anyone wants them.

Thanks for looking!





Marble Close Up


Soapstone Close Up



clipped on: 11.18.2014 at 07:09 pm    last updated on: 11.18.2014 at 07:09 pm

RE: Would you share pics of your painted furniture pieces? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: juddgirl2 on 05.03.2011 at 01:08 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Beautiful pieces posted! I just love painted furniture.

My favorite (but most difficult) project was the orange pine hutch I painted with BM Baby Turtle and finished with a glaze. Tuesday posted a link above - thanks Tuesday for the compliment! It's in my foyer and I still love looking at it every time I walk through the door.

Right now I'm in the middle of painting 2 dressers for DD's room makeover. I used the same paint/espresso glaze technique but her room is done in cream, white and pink so I used SW Ultra White as the base color.

I painted an entire bedroom set for DS's room in a distressed black finish. The total cost for 3 pieces of solid wood furniture (dresser, desk and nightstand that I found on CL, ebay and garage sales) plus paint and new pewter knobs/pulls was less than $150. I used a few coats of RL paint, sanded down the edges, stained the exposed wood, and finished them off with a couple of coats of Varathane.

Happy painting - be sure to post before and after pics!

DD's dressers (in progress):

#1 before (veneer was in really bad shape so I stripped it off the top - solid wood is so much easier to work with!)




Dresser #2 (before satin finish coat)



DS's dresser


clipped on: 09.15.2012 at 12:42 pm    last updated on: 09.15.2012 at 12:42 pm

RE: Where to start looking for house plans (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: macv on 06.07.2010 at 08:36 am in Building a Home Forum


clipped on: 07.09.2011 at 10:55 pm    last updated on: 07.09.2011 at 10:55 pm

RE: Herb choices for small garden plot (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: daisyduckworth on 01.18.2008 at 02:34 am in Herbs Forum

Just my kinda question, and I have to watch I don't make my reply too long! I'm a herb person, you see, with a herb-only garden, which at the moment (it's summer here) is in glorious flower. I count veges as herbs.

And you do realise that the main section of my entire back-yard garden isn't much bigger than the patch you plan to allocate to herbs?? You can fit a lot in that space - especially if you plan on treating them all as annuals. For instance, rosemary can get very large, but if it's going to die in winter, size doesn't matter much, does it? I applaud your idea of 'going vertical' - it's the only way in a small space.

Let's start with companion planting:


plant with Beans, Chives, Corn, Jerusalem Artichoke, Peas, Radish, Sunflower, Tomato.

DO NOT PLANT WITH: Potatoes, or aromatic herbs (sadly, most of them!)


Plant with:
Asparagus, Basil, Beans, Bergamot, Borage, Carrots, Celeriac, Celery, Chives, Cucumber, Foxglove, French Marigold, Garlic, Gooseberry, Grape, Hyssop, Lovage, Marjoram, Mint, Nasturtium, Onion, Parsley, Parsnip, Peas, Stinging nettle, Rose, Sage, Turnip

Apricot, Beetroot, Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Corn, Dill, Fennel, Kohlrabi, Mustard, Potato, Rosemary

Capsicum (what you call peppers) - this includes chillies:

Plant with:
Basil, Carrot, Lovage, Marjoram, Okra, Parsnip, Tomatoes

Fennel, Kohlrabi, Onion

For the purposes of companion planting, remember than 'onion' will include any members of the onion family, including garlic, chives, leeks etc. So if you see 'leeks', remember, no relatives nearby.

As for eating your herbs and veges together, here's how it goes:

Goes well with: Basil, Chervil, Chives, Dill, Garlic, Mint, Parsley, Rosemary

Basil, Bay, Celery Seed, Chervil, Chives, Coriander, Dill, Garlic, Lovage, Marjoram, Oregano, Parsley, Rosemary, Sage, Savory, Tarragon, Thyme

Capsicum (in this case, 'bell pepper):
Chives, Coriander, Garlic, Marjoram, Oregano, Thyme

Not all the herbs mentioned are annuals. Most, in fact, are perennials, but that's a bonus, isn't it? You can always grow some herbs in pots nearby - for instance, I'd never recommend planting mint in the garden, because it takes over. Oregano tends to do the same, but is less rampant.

Why not go through the list I've given you, select a few probables and possibles, then get back and ask about particular ones you've put on a short list - you see, not all herbs like the same conditions - some like it hot and sunny, others like moist and shady, and so forth. It would take forever and a day to go through all these at one sitting.

I see you are in Canada, which by my reckoning is cold, with a short season. I think you'll be battling with most of the popular culinary herbs (many of which are the 'Mediterranean' herbs, because that's where most of them come from). I suggest you erect a sort of 'tent' over your garden patch, covering it with clear plastic. This will create a mini-hothouse, which will help create a warmer mini-climate for such herbs as need the heat, and will extend their life for you. I'd start on it fairly soon, either getting your seeds started, or starting to buy the plants and keeping them warm and sheltered while they are young.

If you choose marigolds, make sure they are Calendula spp, NOT Tagetes. The latter are not edible. Violas do best in partial shade, Calendula likes full sun. In Canada's wishy-washy sun (as opposed to my subtropical sun, which is fierce!), they might both do OK together.

I think you can't really go past the following herbs:
basil (great for attracting bees); chives; parsley; chervil; tarragon, thyme, lemon balm (it's a mint!); mint; oregano; rosemary; sage.

For flowery herbs go for borage (cucumber flavour); roses; calendula, nasturtium (train upwards); violets.

I think you should always have something 'lemony' in a herb garden. Lemon savory gives a nice lemon-pepper flavour; and lemon balm grows like a weed. Even a lemon-scented geranium gives a good lemon flavour, and is easy to grow from cuttings. Why not think about lemon verbena for a lemonier-than-lemon flavour?

Speaking of geraniums (the herby ones are actually pelargoniums), they are very useful because they come in a large range of flavours - carrot, rose, lemon, cinnamon, nutmeg, coconut, peppermint, just to name a few. Useful as substitutes for the real thing.

And now I stop to draw breath. Once started on herbs, I tend to be loquacious!


clipped on: 04.18.2011 at 02:06 am    last updated on: 04.18.2011 at 02:06 am

RE: Cutting herbs to use (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: daisyduckworth on 07.24.2008 at 09:35 am in Herbs Forum

Basil: pick off leaves individually or prune all around the plant (never taking more than one-third of entire growth at once time, then waiting for the plant to regrow before pruning again) and use either individual leaves or sprigs for cooking. Stems, of course, should be removed before serving the dish. Harvest regularly to encourage more growth. Some people say the flavour changes once the plant flowers, but I've never found this to be the case - mine flower from tiny and never stop! The flowers are edible. The plant will die as the cold weather approaches. That's normal. It's an annual.

Sage: as for basil. The flowers are edible and do not need to be removed.

Oregano: as for basil. The flowers are edible and do not need to be removed. This plant can spread quite quickly, so keep an eye on it.

Parsley: trim off all over the plant if desired, or just pick stems, as far down as you like. I like to take the lower stems and leaves, encourage more top growth. Once a flower stem appears (in its second year), the flavour becomes more coarse, but if you let it go to seed, you'll get lots more plants next year. It's a biennial.

Coriander/cilantro: be quick if it's hot in your area! This plant will bolt to seed very quickly, and in a hot climate may live out its entire life-cycle in a mere 2 weeks. Once the leaves begin to turn lacy/feathery, and begin to produce a flower stem, that's your warning. Again, pick off individual leaves, or cut whole stems. The feathery leaves are edible, but of much coarser flavour than the 'real' leaves. There's not a lot you can do to stop it going to seed. Let it happen. The seeds are edible when fully ripe, and some will inevitably drop to germinate and start new plants. Best to sow seeds about every 2-3 week to get successive crops. It's a short-lived annual.

Honestly, there's no talent or special knowledge required for harvesting or pruning. A lot of it is just plain commonsense, and no special knowledge is required. If you want a leaf or a sprig, take one! Take 2. Take 10. Just remember the rule of thumb - take only one-third of total growth at any one time - regardless of how big the plant is. Doesn't matter where you cut the stems, really, unless you have an eye for aesthetics!

If you want to harvest your herbs for medicinal purposes, there are optimum times to get the best medicinal properties from them, but really, it isn't critical.


cutting herbs
clipped on: 04.18.2011 at 01:20 am    last updated on: 04.18.2011 at 01:20 am

RE: best slipcovered sofa that won't break the bank? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: angc on 07.15.2008 at 07:12 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I got a great leather sofa from a place called nantuckit. Their furniture is 8 way hand tied, hardwood frame, and has a lifetime warranty. I haven't had the sofa for long, but it seems incredibly well made. The Madison, which looks like the Nikki, is under $1600 and shipping is really cheap.
I don't work for them or anything, I was just impressed by the quality.


clipped on: 07.15.2008 at 10:26 pm    last updated on: 07.15.2008 at 10:27 pm

RE: Stone or wood flooring for this powder room? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: lindybarts on 01.20.2008 at 12:42 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Hey juddgirl...I was just playing with your choices this morning. I don't know how dark your stain is going to be but this wood floor is Wide Plank Eastern Pine. Oops, should have moved that mirror up, but you get the idea.

Walnut Travertine in a Versaille pattern


clipped on: 01.21.2008 at 12:29 am    last updated on: 01.21.2008 at 12:29 am

RE: Computer constantly running..... (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: kudzu9 on 03.25.2007 at 05:28 pm in Computer Help Forum

Go to your Task Manager (Ctrl-Alt-Del) and look at CPU use at the bottom of the window that opens. If you're only playing solitaire and your Task Manager shows a high level of activity (like greater than 10%) that doesn't drop down after a few seconds, then something is running in the background. That something could be as innocent as programs that don't need to be running that automatically start up when you turn on your computer, or it could be as nasty as a virus or botnet that has infected your computer.

Here is a link that might be useful: Botnet definition


clipped on: 01.04.2008 at 02:18 am    last updated on: 01.04.2008 at 02:18 am

RE: Can you help? Glue on on wide plank pine flooring (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: amck on 09.03.2007 at 08:05 pm in Flooring Forum

glennsfc - Thanks for your replies. I was so despondent last night when we got home that posting on this forum felt like crying out for a voice in the wilderness.

Things are looking a bit brighter today. My husband was able to contact a person from the flooring company who assured us that all is not lost. Our GC contacted a pro floor installer from our area who is coming in tomorrow to sand the floor. It's a more delicate process than DIY'ers like us should attempt at this point. The stain should take well after that, and though we won't have the same milled finish we would have gotten had there not been a problem, one look at those beautiful planks indicates to me that we will have lovely (though glossier) floors in the end.

We took your suggestion about finishing all the treads and risers for the stairway before installing. Another tip the pine guy told my husband was that instead of wiping down the floors with a dampened tack cloth, he uses a rag wrung out with mineral spirits and goes over the surface with it before staining. Supposedly this helps remove any dastardly glue spots - or at least lets you spot them so you can gently and discreetly sand them down before staining. They are nearly invisible buggers that bond with the wood in an instant. Wish we'd known that one day earlier!

Again, thanks for your responses - I appreciated that you took the time to offer an ear and some help.


clipped on: 12.04.2007 at 01:53 am    last updated on: 12.04.2007 at 01:53 am

RE: oak vs pine vs maple interior doors (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: brushworks on 07.30.2006 at 01:59 pm in Remodeling Forum

Painting can be much more difficult than staining. It depends on who the craftsman is. Painting a 6 panel door must be done according to the manual or it will look terrible. If you choose to paint them, email me and I'll send you the "how to paint a 6 panel door" instructions.

Staining it requires knowledge too. The pine should be pre-treated (conditioned) prior to staining since it's a porous wood that absorbs stain unevenly. All paint stores sell the conditioner. After staining, apply at least two coats of varnish or ceramathane with the door is in a horizontal position to prevent runs. If you spot a run after a minute or so, trying to tip off those products creates more of a mess.

If you decide to paint, the first coat should be a quality underbody primer. Please.....don't skip the primer. That seals the door and sets it up for the final two coats of paint.

An ordinary latex paint will look clumsy on a door. You should learn how to paint with the Waterborne finishes (Muralo Ultra) (BM Impervo) (SW Pro Classic) or a urethane product like Cabinet Coat trim enamel.. Those will provide a hard, porcelain-like finish, which is what performs best on a door.

You will also need a high quality brush. A 2" angle sash is best for most hands. Or, you can do like me and use an angle sash to paint the panels, then switch over to a 2 1/2" flat sash brush for the stiles and rails.

I wish I had the picture of Moonshadow's doors. She did a magnificent job with Cabinet Coat on hers.

My doors are done in Pro Classic and unless you've had some practice with it, it can be very, very difficult to get a professional finish.


Here is a link that might be useful: I found Moonshadow's doors


Painting interior doors
clipped on: 10.17.2007 at 07:38 pm    last updated on: 10.17.2007 at 07:38 pm

RE: Good quality furniture???? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jyyanks on 07.26.2007 at 10:06 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Some good sofa brands to consider are Lee Industries, Temple, Massoud, Vanguard, Michael Thomas and Henredon. For higher end, Baker, Stickely, EJ Victor. For leather - Hancock and Moore.

Just parrotiing everything I've read since I am frequently at the furniture forum.

My sofa, loveseat and chairs are from Lee Industries and I love them. Very well made and extremely comfortable. Do a search on the furniture forum, people always rave about Lee Industries.


clipped on: 07.27.2007 at 11:06 pm    last updated on: 07.27.2007 at 11:06 pm