Clippings by juanital

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HAVE: Columbine-Black Barlow

posted by: juanital on 02.22.2013 at 02:58 pm in Seed Exchange Forum

looking for trades or seeds for BEAP, SASBE, SASE, or anything you may have to offer!

Here is a link that might be useful: juanital


clipped on: 02.22.2013 at 02:58 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2013 at 02:59 pm

Mailing costs for Bubble Envelopes (BE)

posted by: chemocurl on 10.21.2008 at 12:11 pm in Seed Exchange Forum

Bubble envelopes which are empty, or under 3/4" thick are classified as and to be charged as Large Envelopes and referred to as Flats) The contents (seed packs) should be taped in place, so the BE will be uniformly thick, and that the seeds don't shift, and then cause problems with the USPS equipment.

Large Envelopes rates (BE under 3/4" thick)
1 oz=$ .83
2 OZ=$1.00
3 OZ=$1.17
4 OZ=$1.34
5 OZ=$1.51

Other rates up to 13 OZ can be found at the link below. Anything over 13 OZ will then go as Priority mail (1 LB) and will be $4.80 unless one tells the clerks it is to go Parcel Post.

If there are numerous generous amounts of seeds sent, or if the seeds are bigger, the BE may be more than 3/4" thick, and then will go at Parcel Rate. It is not necessary to tape packets down if it is a bigger bulky envelope over 3/4" thick.

Parcel Rates
1 OZ=$1.17
2 OZ=$1.34
3 OZ=$1.51
4 OZ=$1.68
5 OZ=$1.85
6 OZ=$2.02
Other heavier (First Class) Parcel Rates can be found at the link below.


Here is a link that might be useful: First Class rates for Large Envelopes and Parcels


clipped on: 02.22.2013 at 02:47 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2013 at 02:47 pm

Wintersowing a cottage garden.

posted by: token28001 on 12.14.2009 at 09:33 am in Winter Sowing Forum

Just last year when I was a newbie, I read almost every thread in this forum. I'd stay up late at night trying to find more pictures of plants, how well this works, and so forth. I asked a lot of questions too. In the summer of 2008, I built a new bed in my side yard. I covered the existing soil with cardboard and leaf mold from the landfill. It's hard packed clay, so I needed to loosen it up a bit. Over the winter, I sowed my seeds, and planted out.

I also spent a lot of time in the cottage garden forum. There are some beautiful gardens there and wintersowing just seems to naturally go hand in hand with that type of garden. You can grow so many kinds of plants that it's hard to create a formal garden with so many choices and varieties available from seed. I wanted a cottage garden. Wintersowng made it happen.

Some things I learned from reading other peoples' blogs and posts on GardenWeb. Plant multiples. If you plant one of each plant, it tends to look like a hodgepodge. Planting multiples gives you repetition. I started with a hardy hibiscus, shastas, and rudbeckia. Then I scattered Hunks of Seedlings of various plants between those "anchor" points. Plant diagonally to the walkway, path, or street. It gives you a drifting look. Threes, fives, and sevens. Plant in odd numbers. Add in large foliage, vertical elements, mix small blooms with large gaudy blooms. Plant daylilies here and there for vertical interest. Add grasses. And shrubs. Don't be too worried about height and sizes. Cottage gardens tend to flop all over each other. If you don't like a plant, take it out. It's hard, I know. Next year, you'll sow more seeds of something you do like. Save seeds. Trade seeds. Spend time researching. Pay attention to sun exposure for the plants you're growing. Don't worry about the details of wintersowing. Provide drainage, a cover, label, and good soil. You will have some success. You will have some failure. Don't get too technical. It's supposed to be about having fun, right?

Just a few photos below of the process so you can get an idea of just how many plants you get from wintersowing. Not all plants were wintersown. Some were purchased, some were gifts, some were raised from cuttings and other means of propagation. Once you learn on technique, learn others. Plants do it in nature all the time. A stem touches the ground, gets covered with leaves, and roots to form a new plant.

December 15, 2008

February 12, 2009

February 26, 2009

March 2, 2009

March 29, 2009

April 10, 2009

May 24, 2009

June 12, 2009

June 21, 2009 - summer solstice.

July 19, 2009

On August 18, I injured myself with the lawnmower and a rock. The gardens went downhill after that. I couldn't get around much to water and rain wasn't coming as often as I needed it. Some plants thrived. Others wilted away.

August 30, 2009 - From the front porch, I was on crutches.

September 20, 2009 - the day before the official 1st day of Fall.

October 11, 2009. Lots of plants are done. Seeds collected. Seeds scattered. The garden is being put to bed for the winter.

Wintersowing works. Share your success for the newbies. Photos welcomed.


clipped on: 09.03.2012 at 08:11 am    last updated on: 09.03.2012 at 08:27 am

RE: SLR sensor question... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: caudex1 on 03.03.2008 at 12:31 am in Photography Forum

I use the sensor sweep. Don't want to use to blower/sucker as it may push dust further into the camera

Here is a link that might be useful: Sensor Sweep


clipped on: 10.07.2008 at 08:05 am    last updated on: 10.07.2008 at 08:05 am

RE: transfer data to new pc (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: jemdandy on 12.31.2007 at 06:43 pm in Computer Help Forum

You did not provide enough information about your two computers for someone to be able to make an accurate recommendation, and you did not wish to buy 'anything'. This is a challenge, but her goes anyway. I'll be making a lot of assumptions about your two systems.

First off, you said both computers had XP as operating systems, so I assume that the new computer is set up and running, and all you want to do is transfer data files, and not installed software.

Secondly, I assume that both computers have only one hard drive each, and if so, the chore become easy. You will need, however, a second IDE drive cable for hooking up a 2-drive system. [See also the end of this message about "thumb drives"]

a. Remove the hard drive from the old computer and set its jumper to "slave".

b. Look at the hard drive in the new system and insure that it is set to "master". If has no jumper in place, ass one in the "master' postiion.
c. Commect the old hsrd drive to the second IDE conector. With caution, you don't have to install the old drive into a bay. Tape some cardboard across the bottom of the drive to prevent it from shorting the exposed solder points.

d. Boot up and both drives show show. Create whatever folders and/or subfolders that you require on the new drive and merely 'copy' files from the old drive to the new as desired. The transfer will be super fast compared to other methods. I recommend using "copy" over "move" because if anything happens, you will still have the files on the old drive.

e. After the files have been copied, shut down and remove the old drive and its data cable.

d. Close up the new computer and you are done. You can leave the 'master' jumper on the new drive.

If the old drive is not too old, it can be used as a second drive in the new computer or as a external drive throgh a USB connection. To use as a USB drive, you will have to buy an adapter and put the drive into this adapter. But before you buy the adapter, check out the prices of external drives already housed in a case for USB ports. There may not be much difference in price.

As an alternative, you can get "thunb drives" that plug into a USB port and use this for data storage and file transfers. I do not recommend using a thumb drive as a hard disk since these do have limited write/rewrite life.

By the way, if you do not have humungeous amount of data to trandfer to the the new computer, you can use a 'thumb drive' for this. These came in several capacity sizes, BUT you will have to buy one. These are very easy to use and do not require an installation work - just plug and go (afer the system finds and recognizes the drive) and most are 'hot' swappable meaing you can plug and unplug without powering down. One caveat: before unplugging, click on the "safetly remove hardware" icon in XP's lower right tray. A popup menu should appear showing the installed storage devices. Click (or double-click) on the device you are about to unplug and wait until the system tells you it is ok to remove. Why do this? This is done to insure that all files on the storage device have been properly closed thus removing the danger of smashing a file on the next write to the device.


clipped on: 01.08.2008 at 09:06 pm    last updated on: 01.08.2008 at 09:07 pm

Still working on the moon picture...

posted by: solstice98 on 09.02.2006 at 08:44 am in Photography Forum

I'm still trying to get the moon picture but don't quite have it yet. Lots of misty clouds last night so maybe that's why I couldn't get the sharp focus I want. I'll keep trying!

Camera make: Canon
Camera model: Canon PowerShot A85
Date/Time: 2006:09:01 10:48:28
Flash used: No
Focal length: 16.2mm (35mm equivalent: 109mm)
CCD width: 5.33mm
Exposure time: 0.125 s (1/8)
Aperture: f/4.8

Would a shorter exposure time have given me a sharper image?

There isn't an adapter that will connect my Canon to my old telescope (an ancient Celestron C90), so I got a nice focus on the telescope and just held the camera up to the eyepiece. Primitive, I know. (I couldn't even hold the camera steady with a tripod because I was using that for the telescope!)


clipped on: 10.15.2007 at 09:47 pm    last updated on: 10.15.2007 at 09:47 pm

RE: I have a question about backgrounds... (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: zitro_joe on 09.25.2006 at 11:46 pm in Photography Forum

There are several things at play when taking a macro; lighting, Depth of Focus (DoF), Metering.

In true macro photos, a serious amateur/pro will use a specified macro lens and a double flash unit like this one:
that is why the the subject is so illuminated. Most of us do not hace this setup - macro lens, double flash unit - and that is okay. An on board flash or better yet an external flash will work too.

The DoF in macros is usually really, really shallow. f/1.2 - f3.0, at least that is what I use. with such a shallow DoF the picture will create a very blurry bokeh and if there are dark objects in the back ground then then it will create the illusion of a dark back ground, when really it is just blurred to a point that it is not reconizable. ie:
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Metering,, most new cameras have metering options. This is just you telling the camera on what part of picture to adjust the lighting, there is actuall more to it than that, but I confused myself trying to explain it.

Then there is alway PP as aliska stated she had done for her pics. If you have any more question feel free to ask.



clipped on: 10.15.2007 at 09:30 pm    last updated on: 10.15.2007 at 09:30 pm

RE: I have a question about backgrounds... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: aliska12000 on 09.23.2006 at 02:01 pm in Photography Forum

That is a good question, and I don't have the answer. I've got some like that I like.

The last one was achieved in post processing. There were hot spots on the face from a combination of an open door letting in daylight and camera flash. Since I shot it in RAW, I was partially able to correct for that by turning the exposure down. By the time I got done making my usual adjustments, levels, etc., the background was almost black, and I liked the effect.

If I find out something that works consistently, I'll try to get back to you.

In the meantime, you might try turning down the exposure compensation and see what that does. Bright flowers, not just white, especially in sunlight and also on overcast days where there is a lot of diffused light bouncing around, can often use -1/3 to -2/3 exposure compensation to keep the colors from washing out; i.e., blown out. You could also try partial metering rather metering the entire scene. A lot of it is dependent on the particular camera, lens, and metering.


clipped on: 10.15.2007 at 09:28 pm    last updated on: 10.15.2007 at 09:29 pm

RE: Lens question for Digital SLR (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: aliska12000 on 10.27.2006 at 01:17 am in Photography Forum

Yes, it is called a prime lens, it will not zoom at all. Most people prefer the Canon EFS 17-85mm f4/f5.6 IS USM. I think it comes as a package at some retailers with the body. Some don't like it. I do but don't have it. Depending on your budget, I would suggest the 28-135 (I've used it with success but it is not L which is better glass and more reasonable in price), the 24-105 or the 24-70 (expensive). If you are going to get a prime lens, I would suggest the 50mm 1.8, it is cheap and sharp, but does not zoom, great for kid pics and in low light situations, there are a couple other 50mm primes now, more expensive. The kit lens isn't all that bad for what it is, if I had to do it over again, I would get body only and maybe the 24-105 which is expensive because it has a good zoom range, good for a general purpose, walkabout lens, and should have good resale value. I do lean toward the Canon lenses, but some of the Sigmas and Tamrons are pretty good.


clipped on: 10.15.2007 at 09:23 pm    last updated on: 10.15.2007 at 09:23 pm

RE: Night Photography (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: aliska12000 on 10.24.2006 at 10:17 pm in Photography Forum

I always shoot full manual for night photos with a tripod, now I have a remote to help reduce tripod vibrations from pressing on the button, should go further and use mirror lockup (MLU), but haven't. The easiest way to start would be to find a photo you like that you took in night portrait mode and look at the exif (you need to find the shutter speed and aperture). I would turn off the flash and use a longer shutter speed to compensate, you will kind of have to guess and watch your lcd.

If you don't have an exif viewer, I downloaded a freebie a few years back which is very helpful, don't know if it is still available, but you can go to windows explorer, navigate to the photo, right click on the photo, click properties, click on the summary tab you see at the top, if it says advanced, click on that, and all your info should come up. If the tab on the bottom says simple, click on it to get advanced.

For 4th of July, I pre-focussed before it got dark, then switched over to manual without moving my camera, used ISO 100 to keep the noise down. I've got one that turned out ok using f8 at 1 sec. This one isn't all that great, but I shot it at f8 for 10 sec. Most of them at least turned out, some better than others.

The problem might be focussing in low light. Sometimes you have to use manual focus and do it yourself however your camera works for that, mine has a focus ring. I don't know if your AF will work or not, depending on the lighting of the scene, might as well try. The only way to learn to shoot night shots is to start practicing. I messed up a bunch before I got any good ones.

To get the twinkle light effect, choose an aperture around f9, and adjust the shutter speed accordingly, 10 seconds us usually a little too long, try a bunch of different shutter speeds down to 1 sec, you can always delete them later.

You can always try your night scene mode first, but normally you can't get them if you try to hand hold the camera. If you don't have a tripod, you can set the camera on a bag of beans on a stool or whatever you have and use the timer.


clipped on: 10.15.2007 at 09:16 pm    last updated on: 10.15.2007 at 09:16 pm

RE: advice for mailing (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: remy on 03.06.2007 at 01:49 pm in Rate & Review Exchanges Forum

Hi Paula,
The link below is part of the FAQ for the plant exchange forum. (There used to be a photo explanation somewhere but I can't find it.) I'm sure you didn't realize there was a FAQ there and that this question should been placed on the Plant Exchange Conversation board and not here. I hope that didn't sound mean because I didn't mean it that way. Everyone posts in the wrong spot when they first start : )
Anyway, I do do a few things differently than the FAQ. I often dig and pot all my extras and keep them in a pot ghetto. This way I know exactly what I have and it is easily retrievable. I think people get in trading trouble not realizing how time consuming all the digging is, running short on what they have etc. Plus anything that came up a bit short on roots will regrow in the pot quite quickly and travel much better than a shocked fresh dug plant.
Another thing I do differently is use tape to tape the baggie at the base of plants. I personally can get a better snug fit to keep the moisture around the plants.
I do roll them up in newspaper cone as the FAQ suggests. I think they survive much better. Then I use extra crumpled newspaper or crumpled bubble wrap(not wrapped around so plants can still breath) as padding. When I think I have it packed good, I close the box and give a good shake. If anything moves, I add more padding.
The FAQ also says to use Priority mail which is true. Regular boxes can take forever to arrive! Also, I always get a Delivery Confirmation #. Packages seem to arrive at their destination better that way, and no one can say it didn't arrive.
I hope this helps: )

Here is a link that might be useful: Plant Exchange Mailing FAQ


clipped on: 10.08.2007 at 06:29 am    last updated on: 10.08.2007 at 06:29 am

RE: Photo contest - selling photo's (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mrbrownthumb on 12.21.2006 at 11:11 pm in Photography Forum

There are various ways to do it. If you want to enter contests you can check out the various photography magazines on the stands and see when they're running contests. There are also a few sites around that have photo contest where the prize is something like 100.00 bucks. I think one of them is called photo a day or something like that.

Then there are various on-line stock agencies where you don't have to be a professional to upload your photos and sell them. At first the $$ they pay you per download doesn't seem like a lot-but if you have good photos and lots of them the $$ per download really adds up.

I personally use




And I'm happy with both of them. The images are royalty free and the $$ from both adds up, plus they're non exclusive so you can upload the same images to both places or as many on-line places as you can join.

Also see the website for your camera maker. Often times they run photo contests for their customers and give a small prize or bragging rights. Like Kodak's winners get their pic on that giant screen in Times Sq. And many different specialized mags also run contests from time to time so take an afternoon and check out the racks at Borders.


clipped on: 01.17.2007 at 11:21 pm    last updated on: 10.05.2007 at 02:53 am

long blooming perennials

posted by: redsox on 09.12.2007 at 03:12 pm in Perennials Forum

My scabiosas have probably been the longest blooming perennials I have so far. It is nice to enjoy something for the bulk of the Spring and Summer. Are there other long blooming perennials that you can count on for several weeks or even months?


clipped on: 09.17.2007 at 09:16 pm    last updated on: 09.17.2007 at 09:16 pm

RE: Recent Avalanche of 'About Blank' (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: firewire800 on 12.09.2006 at 10:23 am in Computer Help Forum

I know you said "I can't possibly alter the office's configuration."

But it sounds like your IT folks are helpful. There's a simple and elegant solution. I assume (Avant) you're using a Windows XP system. There's a file called hosts located here in your system:


In a typical Windows installation the file is empty and does nothing. You can't do harm messing with it -- if you delete it Windows will just create a new empty hosts file the next time you start up.

You can use the hosts file to block incomming IPs at the OS level. Your browser and popup blocker never have to be bothered because the offending material is stopped at the door. This has the added advantage of speeding everything up -- it's faster to keep the junk out rather than have to deal with it once it's in the door.

Another advantage to using this method is that all the tracking cookies that the ad sites try and set are also blocked. GW runs ads that are fed to you from other sites. These sites place buckets full of cookies on your computer to track your browsing activity -- they want to verify that you've seen the ads.

My hosts file is configured to stop all GW advertising. I never see a single add. They never place a single cookie. My popup blocker has nothing to block. Following are the entries from my hosts file that shut down GW advertising. You could just cut and past them into you hosts file and restart your browser.

P.S. If you want to stop the majority of Internet advertising as well as keep out Spyware sites etc. you can search the web for hosts file entries. Lots of folks have seriously researched this and gladly post their hosts file entries that block all ad and/or malicious content.


clipped on: 02.07.2007 at 09:30 am    last updated on: 02.07.2007 at 09:31 am

RE: How do you get the sparkle? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: firewire800 on 01.01.2007 at 03:21 pm in Photography Forum

The key is backlighting. You want the ice between you and the light source. You have to shoot into or towards the sun.

This is tricky and so you need to consider the following:

LENS SHADE -- shooting into a light source is begging for flare. A lens shade can make the difference between a great shot and a failure.

EXPOSURE -- no telling how your camera's meter is going to handle this except to say that it'll get it wrong. Typically internal camera meters will underexpose backlighting, but the ice will complicate this. So bracket -- take the photo over an exposure range. It's easiest to use the +/- exposure control on your camera. Take at least four exposures in 1/3 stop increments.


clipped on: 01.17.2007 at 11:19 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2007 at 11:20 pm

RE: Help me again Please..ISO and aperture (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: aliska12000 on 01.11.2007 at 02:14 pm in Photography Forum

I'll try to watch for some pics, take your time.

One easy thing to remember:

Shooting in AV mode, you pick the aperture (lens) opening size/number, the camera chooses the shutter speed.

Shooting in TV mode (sometimes good for stopping in action in sports) is just the opposite. You choose the shutter speed, and the camera chooses the aperture.

If you want total control, you shoot full manual where you pick both the aperture and shutter speed, almost essential for night shots. I'm not to the point where I can confidently shoot in full manual mode yet.

If your camera has a histogram feature, display it and try to learn how to use it. It's a rough guide for telling if you got a proper exposure. Learning to read them is a little tricky, and the camera isn't totally accurate, but the rule is to shoot to the right but not so much as to have a line climbing the right edge which means you have blown one or more channels, or white highlights which glare at you from your monitor and can ruin your photo. Sometimes a little of that is totally unavoidable. The perfect histogram is a nice mountain with the valleys touching the left and right edges exactly, but few photos turn out exactly like that. On night photos, most everything will bunch to the left. Learning to use it has been an aid to me because you can't totally rely on what you see on the lcd after you've shot your photo. Of course, it won't tell you if your shot is a little blurry or out of focus.

All this takes time to absorb but worth the effort in the long run. I'm still struggling with some of it myself.


clipped on: 01.17.2007 at 10:28 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2007 at 10:32 pm

ooops (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: zitro_joe on 01.11.2007 at 12:31 am in Photography Forum

typing mistake:
Faster shutter = less light, less motion
_HIGHER_ Aperture f/# = less light, bigger DoF
Higher ISO = faster shutter speed or higher f/#, maybe both.
....and vice versa


clipped on: 01.17.2007 at 10:27 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2007 at 10:31 pm

RE: Help me again Please..ISO and aperture (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: zitro_joe on 01.11.2007 at 12:29 am in Photography Forum

The answer for ISO
- "International Organization of Standards"
This organization was created in 1947 to make sure that everyone, commercially and industrially, was talking apples to apple and oranges to oranges.

What does that have to do with cameras? Okay...
Way back in the day we used film. The ISO set standards on film speed, sensitivity to light. So, no matter where in the world I bought film, ISO50 film in Japan would have the same sensitivity to light as ISO50 film I bought in Germany. Follow.

Soooo now we are digitized, ISO just means the cameras sensitivity to light.

The Higher the ISO the MORE sensitive the camera is. However, the higher the ISO the more 'noise' the cameras have. As Aliska pointed out if the camera is set to a high ISO then you can also shoot at a higher shutter speed, if that is what you want. You dont always want that.

Aperture- there are blades inside the camera. These blades close and open controlling the amount of light that enters the camera. The lower the aperture (f/#) the more open the blades are, allowing more light into the camera.

Simultaneously; the lower the f/# the shallower the Depth of Focus (DoF) the lens has.

Faster shutter = less light, less motion
Smaller Aperture = less light, bigger DoF
Higher ISO = faster shutter speed or higher f/#, maybe both.
....and vice versa

Taking the perfect exposure is really a science of light. Learning how to properly manipulate these three will help you be able to take the picture the way you envision it in your head, granted within the technical realms of you camera.

I thought I could explain it in less but it would have been so ambiguous.



clipped on: 01.17.2007 at 10:26 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2007 at 10:30 pm

RE: Help me again Please..ISO and aperture (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: aliska12000 on 01.10.2007 at 10:07 pm in Photography Forum

I don't think I could help much, my daughter has the A95 but only uses P mode. Focussing on thorns would be "thorny", pardon the pun, plus you may be trying to shoot in the shade. The camera will likely backfocus on such a small subject, although they like something vertical so if you pick a straight stem you might be ok. Did you try the macro mode? Sometimes you need to use a tripod or other stabilization to avoid camera shake in that mode, but you can get closer.

I usually shoot aperture priority, and would be hard put to lock focus on a thorn, and I have a good macro lens now. I would suggest the AV setting and dial in the aperture number. The higher the number, the smaller the lens opening.

For flowers, using something in the range of f4 to f5.6 is usually pretty good. You have to experiment. If you want a deep depth of field with everything in the photo in focus, try f8, but then the camera might pick too slow a shutter speed, depending on light.

To get a really shallow depth of field with good bokeh in the bg, try the largest lens opening your camera will allow (smallest number). Depending on what it is, you may not get everything you want in focus, like the whole blossom, face, etc.

ISO on those p&s cameras will force a faster shutter speed, but then you run into noise problems. I would set the ISO to the smallest number your camera will allow in good light and not bump it up more than two notches. Offhand, I can't think of why your pictures are dark, but bumping the ISO up a little higher might help, not too much or you will get noise. I don't think you can bump it up past ISO 400 anyway, if that.

Something else you can try, I think it works in P mode, is to bump up the exposure compensation. If you move it to the plus side, you will have to watch blown highlights. If you move it to the minus side, it might be underexposed/dark.

You may have inadvertently reset some setting you shouldn't have in there or something could be wrong with your camera or metering. I would try restoring the camera to the default settings and start over. There should be some place in the menu for that. If you have an option for center point focus, I would use that, but use pattern or evaluative for metering (if you get a choice for that).

If you can post a sample showing the exif info, that helps, but only certain programs and saves preserve that.

The regular Canon forum on would be a good resource for you to achieve a higher skill level. That camera is capable of taking good photos with the proper skills and knowledge.

If all else fails, you can try the flash. You can adjust that through the menu, too, look for FEC. Outside, I would start on the negative side, in -1/3 increments, not going below -1, (same with exposure compensation, don't go below -1 or above +1) because you don't want too much of a blast. It's called fill flash.

On those cameras, in bright sunlight situations, you should always probably use about -2/3 to -1 exposure compensation or they will be overexposed and have blown highlights; otherwise, leave it at 0.

Now Joe could have answered this with a lot fewer words :-). And I might not have thought of something.


clipped on: 01.17.2007 at 10:26 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2007 at 10:30 pm

Help me again Please..ISO and aperture

posted by: sydneydavis on 01.10.2007 at 02:25 am in Photography Forum

I tried reading in my information book from the Canon Powershot A85 but didn't really understand it. I tried to take a bunch of pic's outside playing with the numbers in different combinations but still couldn't tell what was best in which setting. I realize it might be an endless list but is there a brief explaination I could get. I tried to get a close up of the thorns and using different settings some of the pictures came out all dark. I sat in the same position and took the pictures of the same thorn.
So...If I was taking a photo close up what would be the better numbers in
ISO & Aperture
Dark[do they matter?]
Thank you so very much...
your resident photo[wannabe]cyber idiot!


clipped on: 01.17.2007 at 10:17 pm    last updated on: 01.17.2007 at 10:17 pm

RE: How to make words appear in italics (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: terramadre on 06.08.2006 at 06:49 am in Computer Help Forum

<i>Text</i> produces Text

<b>Text</b> produces Text

Here is a link that might be useful: HTML


clipped on: 06.13.2006 at 11:23 am    last updated on: 06.13.2006 at 11:24 am