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Show me your remodel w/8 ft ceilings

posted by: msmagoo on 07.25.2012 at 12:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have been wanting to remodel our kitchen for...quite a while. We live in an 80's ranch with 8 ft ceilings. As much as I would love a 2-story with soaring (I'd settle for 9 ft) ceilings, selling is not possible now. My fear is that cabs to the celing would not look right with low ceilings. We intend to take a wall down to create more open flow, but I cannot picture the finished product in my head. Currently, we have cabinets under soffits (yuck).
Please help me visualize!


clipped on: 07.25.2012 at 09:24 pm    last updated on: 07.25.2012 at 09:24 pm

Cabinet that opens from side

posted by: olivertwist on 07.21.2012 at 06:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

KD suggested a tall cabinet next to fridge to use as sort of a pantry, but rather than opening from the front, opening from the side. (next to this area is a doorway to DR). Does anyone have a pic of this kind of thing?


clipped on: 07.22.2012 at 10:25 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2012 at 10:25 pm

Ikea kitchen - the cabinet over the fridge

posted by: jjaazzy on 07.14.2012 at 02:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have a 36" x 36" deep refrigerator. I planned on putting the side panels up. We hung the fan cabinet which is a 36" wide 24" deep on the rail system. Problems.... First I can't reach the doors/- short, and I don't like the look. I want to remove it off the rail system and bring it flush forward for a finished armoire look. The fridge is at the end of a run. It is the last thing happening on the wall before a door way. We will be able to attach panel on left side to a cabinet that is on the rail system. How to we put this fan cabinet up in the air between the panels and secure everything. I assume we will have to attach with some L brackets to the wall down low. How do we go at the fan cabinet?
How do we do panels?
What fasteners?
How do you make all attachments hidden?



clipped on: 07.15.2012 at 08:38 am    last updated on: 07.15.2012 at 08:38 am

Oh please post a photo of your backsplashes...

posted by: berardmr on 07.13.2012 at 04:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

I need some inspiration. The cabinets will arrive soon and the contractor is scheduled to begin his work in a few weeks and I don't have a clue about a backsplash. I'm open to anything and everything. Somebody rescue me with some good ideas before I scream!! The backsplash is the last choice I need to make!


clipped on: 07.14.2012 at 10:13 pm    last updated on: 07.14.2012 at 10:13 pm

Pendants on a cord instead of a rod

posted by: rocketmomkd on 07.05.2012 at 01:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

Can anyone tell me if pendants on a cord would be subject to movement from ceiling fans? I want to put two mini pendants over our penninsula. The kitchen is open to the dining room with a ceiling fan on one end, and open to the family room with a ceiling fan on the other end. I prefer a rod, but some of the lights I am condidering have a cord and I'm worried the lights might sway from the ceiling fans. The distance from the pendants to the family room ceiling fan is a little more than 13ft. It's about 17 ft to the dining room ceiling fan. Anyone have this issue?


clipped on: 07.05.2012 at 05:27 pm    last updated on: 07.05.2012 at 05:31 pm

Will you PLEASE post a link to your kitchen??

posted by: susied3 on 05.22.2012 at 04:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have to say, I've spent the last 4 days probably over 20 hours of searching, here, google, FKB, every way possible, as to NOT bother you with this, BUT, I can't find MANY kitchens that I have notes on, with questions, and thought maybe if people would post the link to their original kitchen reveal, or progress pics, it might help others with questions as well.

I have a list of TWENTY SEVEN names that I have specific questions about your kitchen! I thought maybe the link to a thread with info might answer many without having to bug everyone personally!

In addition to those 27, I already have 32 threads saved in my favorites, some have the answers, some not, so will probably have to "bug you" for those. :)

So, if you have it, will you post it? PLEASE??



clipped on: 06.24.2012 at 09:08 am    last updated on: 06.24.2012 at 09:08 am

Peach32's Pre-grout BS pics

posted by: peach32 on 07.12.2011 at 09:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are some pics. Ran into one snag. The bullnose pieces are too light and don't match the subways. So, back to the tile store tomorrow to see what is up. I think they sold him bullnoses from a totally different run than the subways. These are Italian hand made tiles so I expected variation. But the difference is unacceptable. Anyway, assuming we can correct this issue, I'm thinking a darker than lighter grout so that the tile stands out from the cabinets--thoughts? It is so good to finally see something up--right or wrong. I finally have a visual to measure by. I think this tile is very warm. I'm not sure a lighter tile (Butter or Candlelight) would have been??



clipped on: 07.17.2011 at 09:10 am    last updated on: 07.17.2011 at 09:10 am

RE: what are your 3 best meals while in limbo? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: slush1422 on 05.18.2011 at 01:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

Crockpot White Bean Chicken chili

SO easy and the kids even love it!
White Bean Chicken Chili

4 cans white beans, drained
3 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
2 cans white corn
8 ounces Pepper jack cheese, cut into 2-inch cubes
2 cups salsa

Combine the beans, cheese, and salsa in a crockpot. Nestle the chicken breasts into the mixture, and cook on low 6-8 hours. Remove chicken breasts, shred with a fork, and return to crockpot. Stir to combine, and serve with desired garnishes.

To make this even easier, I bought one of those fresh Rotisserie chickens and used the meat from there. Cuts cooking time to a couple hours because you are just basically warming everything up. Also if you like a less "chunky" chili, you can add a cup or two of chicken broth to the crock pot.


clipped on: 05.18.2011 at 01:53 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2011 at 01:54 pm

RE: what are your 3 best meals while in limbo? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cindaintx on 05.17.2011 at 09:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

Microwave pasta! You don't have to boil it first if you use fresh pasta, I promise.
Take a large flat covered dish, like a corning ware casserole. Pour about 1/2 c of your favorite jar pasta sauce in the bottom. Arrange one 10oz package of fresh ravioli, tortolini, etc on top in an even layer. Cover with the rest of the sauce and the lid (if your dish doesn't have a lid cover with vented plastic wrap). and zap on low-medium until the pasta is cooked and has absorbed much of the sauce.....time will vary from about 15 minutes to 25 or so depending on the size of the pasta. Take off the lid, add parmesan cheese and zap until melted.


clipped on: 05.18.2011 at 01:37 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2011 at 01:38 pm

Finished Kitchen Finally!! Pics

posted by: laur66 on 05.15.2011 at 08:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello GWers,

I am so happy to be the person saying that our kitchen is finished. I have lurked on this site for months and received invaluable advice and ideas. I didn't even know that there was such a thing as a single sink for a kitchen when I started this process! I can honestly say without this forum I would not love every little bit of my kitchen the way I do. Thanks!

Before (realllllly ugly)



After (love it!!)










clipped on: 05.16.2011 at 11:47 am    last updated on: 05.16.2011 at 11:48 am

Gel stain instructions (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: celticmoon on 06.21.2008 at 01:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Csquared, I got an email I think was from you, but it said I couldn't answer because your email is private. Ditto when I tried to email through your name here.

With apologies for the length of this, I'm just gonna paste the whole bit here for you.

You are welcome to this writeup I did a while back. A couple people tried
it and reported all went well. You just need time, maybe $50 in supplies, and
patience. No skill.

Here's more than you need to know:

My cabinets are frameless, good condition and good layout. But the finish
had gone orange and ugly, with the oak graining too busy for me. Cabinets
are 18 years old, very poorly finished oak veneered slab doors. Plain with
no crevices. They didn't even take the doors off to finish them!!! No stain
or finish on the hinge side edges.
Cheezey, huh?

I looked into changing out cabinets, but that was way too much money, since
my layout was OK. Painting didn't seem right because the doors were plain
slabs. I considered new doors but that still meant a lot of money. For a few
years I tried to figure a way to add molding toward a mission look, but the
rounded door edges made that impossible. Then trolling in a kitchen
emporium showroom this last year I noticed dark wood slab doors, kind like
mine, but darker. That was the answer.

First I tried Minwax Polyshades. Dicey product. Hard to brush on neatly,
then gummy, then seemed to leave a sticky tacky residue. I did a thread on
the Woodworking Furum "Evil Polyshades to the Rescue" which elicited a lot
of conflicting "expert" opinions and arguments that one must strip to bare
(Thread may still be around as that Forum moves slow.) I properly stripped
acres of woodwork in an old Victorian when I was young and stupid. Never
again! Jennifer-in-clyde (in the same boat) and I stumbled around on
woodworking thread to get to this method.

-electric screwdriver or screw drill bits
-mineral spirits to clean the years of gunk off the cabinet
-miracle cloths (optional)
-fine sandpaper
-box-o-disposable gloves from walgreens or the like
-old socks or rags for wiping on coats
-disposable small plastic bowls or plates, and plastic spoons or forks for
stirring/dipping (optional)
-General Finishes water base Expresso stain (pretty thick, but not quite a
gel) This one may not even be a needed step if the Java gets it dark
-General Finishes Java gel stain (poly based)
-General Finishes clear top coat (poly based)
-old sheets or plastic sheeting or newspaper

Rockler woodworking stores are a good place to find the General Finish
products. Or some larger hardware stores. Quart of each was more than
enough for my 60 doors and drawer fronts and goes for $12-14 at Rockler.
There are smaller sizes if your project is small.

You will need a place to work and leave wet doors to dry overnight - I set
up 2 spaces, garagefor sanding/cleaning and basement for staining/sealing.
Use newpaper or plastic to protect the surface and floor. Figure out how you
will prop doors to dry.
Plan blocks of 20-30-minutes for sanding/cleaning bundles of, say, 6
doors at a time. Then just 10 minute sessions to wipe on coats. The coats
will need to dry for about 24 hours, so figure that each section of the
kitchen will be doorless for 4 or 5 days. Divide the job up into manageable

Take off doors and drawer fronts. Use screw drill bits on an electric drill
if you don't have an electric srewdriver. Remove all the hardware. *Mark
alike things so you know what goes back where.*
Clean the doors thoroughly. Not with TSP but with something pretty strong
and scrub well. There's years of grease there.
Sand LIGHTLY, just a scuffing really. Just enough to break the finish and
give it some tooth, no more than a minute a door. A miracle cloth is good
for getting most of the dust off. Then wipe well with mineral spirits to
clean and get the last of the gunk off.

In order, we're gonna put on:
-General Finishes Expresso water based stain (1-2 coats) - optional
-General Finishes Java gel stain (couple coats)
-General Finishes Clear urethene gel topcoat in satin (couple coats)

But first put on work clothes, tie up your hair (Tom, you may skip this
step, LOL) and pop your phone into a baggie nearby (you know it will ring).
Glove up.
*First do a trial on the back of a door and check if Java coats alone
If the Java alone is to your liking, just skip the Expresso and return it.*
Open and stir up the Expresso stain, then spoon some into a plastic bowl.
Close the tin so it doesn't get contaminated. Slide a sock over your hand,
grab a gob of Expresso and smear it on. Wipe off the excess. Let it dry well
- overnight is good. It will lighten as it dries, but then darken again with
any other
coat or sealer. A second coat can end up with a deeper tone at the end -
though it might seem like the second coat is just dissolving the first.

Repeat with Java gel. This is thicker and poly based (*not water cleanup!*=
messier). Color is a rich dark reddish brown. Wait for the second coat to
judge if the color is deep enough for you. I wanted a very deep dark color,
like melted dark chocolate. So I went pretty heavy on these layers. *I did
not sand between coats*.

Repeat with clear gel top coat. This will give you the strength you need in
a kitchen.

Do the same process with the cabinet sides, face and toekick area. Might
need to divide that up also, and stagger the work: doors/cabinets/doors/

NOTE: The cloth or socks used for the gels are very flammable! Collect and
store them in a bucket of water as you go and then dispose of them all

I suggest you put the doors back up after one clear coat, then you can check
everything over and darken an area with more Java if needed, followed by a
clear coat. When it all looks right, go over it all again with another clear
gel coat. Or two. Install your hardware.
The feel of the finish should be wonderful, really smooth and satiny. Color
deep and rich - way nicer than that faded, beat 80's oak color.

Definitely experiment first with the back of a door or drawer front to be
sure it is the look you want. Yes, this takes a couple days to coat, dry,
recoat, dry, etc but you may discover that the Java alone does the trick and
this will save you A LOT of work. Front end patience is worth it.

This is a pretty easy project to do. Hard to screw it up. The worst is the
prep - relative to that, smearing on the coats is cake. I had over 60
pieces (big kitchen) AND island sides and book shelves, etc and I admit I
lost steam partway through. Had to push myself through the last of it. But
it was worth it. Folks think I got all new cabinets - it looks that good.
Now the finish will not be as durable as factory finish - go at it with a
Brillo pad and you WILL abrade it. But it has held up pretty well. And
after a year of pretty heavy use, I've just had a few nicks, easily

I added smashing hardware, raised my passthrough, resurfaced the Corian
(also simple but messy and tedious) and replaced the DW and sink. It looks
gorgeous to me and I really enjoy the space - how it sits all quiet, clean
and serene, then gets all crazy with the food and folks du jour. I couldn't
be happier, especially that I didn't have to work another year just to pay
for the update!!

Link to cabinets in progress:

Link to almost finished cabinet pix:

Good luck with your project!! Feel free to ask me any questions as you go.
And let me know if you try it and how it turns out.


clipped on: 04.30.2011 at 07:19 am    last updated on: 04.30.2011 at 07:56 am

RE: Is there a guideline for how to schedule a remodeling job? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: handymac on 04.21.2011 at 10:30 pm in Remodeling Forum

There are several books about Home Owner General Contracting. Home Time (TV show) did an entire series of shows detailing the process of being your own contractor.

You need to find the subs you want early in the process---during the planning if possible. Be aware some contractors will try and get by with less than agreed on work, simply because a home owner is a one time customer and usually has very l;ittle idea of preferred or proper mateiral and methoids of construction.

A lot of people have attempted being their own GC, and found hiring a reliable one is a much better idea.

Are you adding an addition to your house?

First, contact the local codes office to see if your plan is within codes. A drawing (hand made) of the lot, house footprint, and new addition footprint should suffice for the initialdetrermination. No point in hiring an architedt if the addition is not within codes.

Basic process:

Dig check.
Excavation/footings/foundation. If any plumbing needs to be installed, the plumbers may need to add lines before the foundation work. Concrete will need several days curing time before framing.
Concrete flooring poured(if needed.
Inspections as required.

Framing: flooring support and sub floor. Walls and roof framing. Roofing can be installed(any vents should be installed in the roof during framing---not added later. Exterior sheathing installed. Windows and doors installed. Any reconfiguration of exterior walls that are now interior walls done in this section.

Electrician does rough in. Any HVAC work done. Plumbing rough in done.

Insulation/drywall installed. Exterior siding/painting done.
Inspection if required.

Painting/paneling/interior wall/ceiling treatments.

Finish electrical and trim carpentry.
Baseboard installation depends on type of flooring. If flooring will be wood/tile, installing baseboard is usually done after the flooring. If carpet, the baseboard can be installed before the carpet.


clipped on: 04.23.2011 at 02:29 pm    last updated on: 04.23.2011 at 02:29 pm

How to use paint stripper on kitchen cabinets

posted by: FiftiesRedo on 04.21.2011 at 11:16 am in Kitchens Forum

I recently learned how to use paint stripper to remove paint off my kitchen cabs. Now I can't believe I ever used sand paper! It's so quick and easy.

I figured I'd pass on the info on how to do it, in case you want to reface your own kitchen cabinets.

Here is a link that might be useful: HOW TO USE PAINT STRIPPER


clipped on: 04.21.2011 at 01:38 pm    last updated on: 04.21.2011 at 01:39 pm

RE: Your experience/practical advice is requested concerning mudr (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: mairin on 01.23.2010 at 12:27 pm in Home Decorating Forum

looks like you've gotten lots of good responses, but here's a picture of our mudroom.

we have 3 kids (well 2, plus an infant - so he doesn't really count yet!). we only had enough space for 4 locker areas (wish we had five now that our family expanded). I wasn't sure we would use it because the powder room sink is so close, but the sink in the mudroom has been a life saver for those sandy hands, muddy feet, etc.). really glad that's in there. I love having the benches to sit upon to put on shoes. We keep our shoes 'loose' under the bench/drawer area which seems to work well enough. The coats hanging out in the open doesn't bother me (it is a mudroom, after all and just for our family to see). The hooks might be sturdy enough to handle a really heavy bookbag, but I'd think it best for shelves as well. I LOVE having the drawers - it's made keeping all the little items more tidy (I've got girls, so hair stuff, jewelry, etc.). we use the upper cabs and drawers for mittens, hats, and other overflow. The corner shelves now have bins for school work and lots of JUNK! this is also where we have plugs for any electronics that need to be charged.

these pics are when we first moved in (May) so limited visual of coats, boots, etc, but you get the idea.


clipped on: 04.17.2011 at 02:32 pm    last updated on: 04.17.2011 at 02:32 pm

RE: Your experience/practical advice is requested concerning mudr (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: hoosiergirl on 01.21.2010 at 09:06 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Covenantbuilders, we only have two kids, but they make the mess of four or five! Here's a photo of the coat/backpack/shoes area of our mudroom before we moved in:


The kids kick off their shoes/boots under the bench, hats/gloves/scarves go in the baskets, and coats just get hung on a hook. The backpacks are usually either on the bench or hung up on the weekends (they are heavy, but the hooks are holding them okay). It can get to be a real mess in there, but I love that the mess is contained (and we have a pocket door there, so I can just close it off if I need to). For us, this works SO MUCH better than trying to get the kids to hang up their coats on a hanger in a closet! I love it!

We also have a utility sink in the mudroom which is another thing I love. I don't have to gunk up the kitchen sink with yucky stuff. There's space under it to store chemicals, etc., and a broom closet to store cleaning tools.


clipped on: 04.17.2011 at 02:21 pm    last updated on: 04.17.2011 at 02:22 pm

Add crown molding?? PIP

posted by: northminnesota on 03.24.2011 at 12:01 pm in Bathrooms Forum

So we are coming close to finishing the remodel of our master bath. The contractor had forgotten that we were to have crown molding as stated in our contract. He asked if we would like to forget about it and just get credited for it. I want the crown molding as I really think it would add to the room. H is seriously considering the credit. Don't you think the crown molding would really finish off the room nicely??




clipped on: 03.24.2011 at 10:34 pm    last updated on: 03.24.2011 at 10:34 pm